300d 2.5 IP screwy - need advice please.
300d 2.5 IP screwy - need advice please.
Hey guys,
I've searched here, peach parts and benzworld for some advice or tech about what my next step is. Here's what happened-and before you flame me let me just say that i understand I fucked up and adjusted something I shouldn't have.
I turned my full load up, then matched it with the high idle. I was sure I turned the right screw but I was wrong. Instead, I adjusted the torque control screw. Ever since I cannot get her to run right. I've played with adjusting it and I made some progress getting it back to where it was before I started messing with it. I've made progress on tuning the pump all together but she just doesn't run right. I know nobody can tell me exacltey what to turn or adjust but I need some guidance on what to do next.
Symptons - Dead cuts off at 2000rpm. she will not rev any higher under a load than that. Unloaded, everything seems fine (which doesn't really matter). The car never did make it up a hill when I first got it. I've done all the routine maintenance to assure nothing is holding it back, removed egr etc and still she falls flat on her face. Later today I will make a video and upload so you can see and hear it if that will help.
Any ideas or should I just keeping tweaking everything until I find the "sweet spot" ?
(10-31-2012, 12:47 PM)omarztaco Hey guys,
I've searched here, peach parts and benzworld for some advice or tech about what my next step is. Here's what happened-and before you flame me let me just say that i understand I fucked up and adjusted something I shouldn't have.
I turned my full load up, then matched it with the high idle. I was sure I turned the right screw but I was wrong. Instead, I adjusted the torque control screw. Ever since I cannot get her to run right. I've played with adjusting it and I made some progress getting it back to where it was before I started messing with it. I've made progress on tuning the pump all together but she just doesn't run right. I know nobody can tell me exacltey what to turn or adjust but I need some guidance on what to do next.
Symptons - Dead cuts off at 2000rpm. she will not rev any higher under a load than that. Unloaded, everything seems fine (which doesn't really matter). The car never did make it up a hill when I first got it. I've done all the routine maintenance to assure nothing is holding it back, removed egr etc and still she falls flat on her face. Later today I will make a video and upload so you can see and hear it if that will help.
Any ideas or should I just keeping tweaking everything until I find the "sweet spot" ?
(10-31-2012, 12:47 PM)omarztaco Hey guys,
I've searched here, peach parts and benzworld for some advice or tech about what my next step is. Here's what happened-and before you flame me let me just say that i understand I fucked up and adjusted something I shouldn't have.
I turned my full load up, then matched it with the high idle. I was sure I turned the right screw but I was wrong. Instead, I adjusted the torque control screw. Ever since I cannot get her to run right. I've played with adjusting it and I made some progress getting it back to where it was before I started messing with it. I've made progress on tuning the pump all together but she just doesn't run right. I know nobody can tell me exacltey what to turn or adjust but I need some guidance on what to do next.
Symptons - Dead cuts off at 2000rpm. she will not rev any higher under a load than that. Unloaded, everything seems fine (which doesn't really matter). The car never did make it up a hill when I first got it. I've done all the routine maintenance to assure nothing is holding it back, removed egr etc and still she falls flat on her face. Later today I will make a video and upload so you can see and hear it if that will help.
Any ideas or should I just keeping tweaking everything until I find the "sweet spot" ?
(10-31-2012, 12:59 PM)OM616(10-31-2012, 12:47 PM)omarztaco Hey guys,
I've searched here, peach parts and benzworld for some advice or tech about what my next step is. Here's what happened-and before you flame me let me just say that i understand I fucked up and adjusted something I shouldn't have.
I turned my full load up, then matched it with the high idle. I was sure I turned the right screw but I was wrong. Instead, I adjusted the torque control screw. Ever since I cannot get her to run right. I've played with adjusting it and I made some progress getting it back to where it was before I started messing with it. I've made progress on tuning the pump all together but she just doesn't run right. I know nobody can tell me exacltey what to turn or adjust but I need some guidance on what to do next.
Symptons - Dead cuts off at 2000rpm. she will not rev any higher under a load than that. Unloaded, everything seems fine (which doesn't really matter). The car never did make it up a hill when I first got it. I've done all the routine maintenance to assure nothing is holding it back, removed egr etc and still she falls flat on her face. Later today I will make a video and upload so you can see and hear it if that will help.
Any ideas or should I just keeping tweaking everything until I find the "sweet spot" ?
First off...STOP!!! Do not do anything until you understand what you are doing. The good news is that you are not the first to find himself in this situation.
What are you using as a technical reference to identify the adjustment screws?
I can find all sorts of things out about the MW pump but not so much for the M pump. I planned everything out and studied before i proceded but I still managed to screw it up.
(10-31-2012, 12:59 PM)OM616(10-31-2012, 12:47 PM)omarztaco Hey guys,
I've searched here, peach parts and benzworld for some advice or tech about what my next step is. Here's what happened-and before you flame me let me just say that i understand I fucked up and adjusted something I shouldn't have.
I turned my full load up, then matched it with the high idle. I was sure I turned the right screw but I was wrong. Instead, I adjusted the torque control screw. Ever since I cannot get her to run right. I've played with adjusting it and I made some progress getting it back to where it was before I started messing with it. I've made progress on tuning the pump all together but she just doesn't run right. I know nobody can tell me exacltey what to turn or adjust but I need some guidance on what to do next.
Symptons - Dead cuts off at 2000rpm. she will not rev any higher under a load than that. Unloaded, everything seems fine (which doesn't really matter). The car never did make it up a hill when I first got it. I've done all the routine maintenance to assure nothing is holding it back, removed egr etc and still she falls flat on her face. Later today I will make a video and upload so you can see and hear it if that will help.
Any ideas or should I just keeping tweaking everything until I find the "sweet spot" ?
First off...STOP!!! Do not do anything until you understand what you are doing. The good news is that you are not the first to find himself in this situation.
What are you using as a technical reference to identify the adjustment screws?
here is a video clip if this helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4wThrHdlcU&feature=plcp
I bet you backed off the High (Max) Speed Adjustment instead of the Idle based on the video.
It is obviously putting out fuel until it hits the cut off speed that it is now adjusted to.
I do not have time right now to look in the manual to see (confirm) which screw is the High Speed adjustment on the RSF Governor.
If you are confident that you know which is the High Speed, Give it a 3 or 4 turns in and see if the engine revs higher.
Did you adjust the screw with an allen head or that screw which has a 22mm (can't say what it is in inches) lock nut and can be turned by fingers? The allen head screw is the max rpm screw and one turn makes 300 in rpm's. The screw with a lock nut is a torque capsule and it cuts max fuel at some rpm but it doesn't totally cut rpm's. The screw at lower left with a 10mm lock nut is the full load and the screw at upper right which is similiar to full load is the idle screw.
Do you have any idea how many turns did you adjust the max rpm?
(11-01-2012, 08:59 AM)Siekkinen Did you adjust the screw with an allen head or that screw which has a 22mm (can't say what it is in inches) lock nut and can be turned by fingers? The allen head screw is the max rpm screw and one turn makes 300 in rpm's. The screw with a lock nut is a torque capsule and it cuts max fuel at some rpm but it doesn't totally cut rpm's. The screw at lower left with a 10mm lock nut is the full load and the screw at upper right which is similiar to full load is the idle screw.
Do you have any idea how many turns did you adjust the max rpm?
(11-01-2012, 08:59 AM)Siekkinen Did you adjust the screw with an allen head or that screw which has a 22mm (can't say what it is in inches) lock nut and can be turned by fingers? The allen head screw is the max rpm screw and one turn makes 300 in rpm's. The screw with a lock nut is a torque capsule and it cuts max fuel at some rpm but it doesn't totally cut rpm's. The screw at lower left with a 10mm lock nut is the full load and the screw at upper right which is similiar to full load is the idle screw.
Do you have any idea how many turns did you adjust the max rpm?
(11-01-2012, 11:07 AM)omarztaco I never touched the Allen head one. Only the 2m lock but that turns freely which I'm sure is the torque control.
(11-01-2012, 11:07 AM)omarztaco I never touched the Allen head one. Only the 2m lock but that turns freely which I'm sure is the torque control.
Thanks guys. Getting ready to adjust it and try it out. I've never messed with Mercedes diesels. I grew up to them from my patents but when I was old enough to start working on them, we had all gas Mercedes. This is a learning curve from hell but its worth it.
(11-01-2012, 01:15 PM)omarztaco Thanks guys. Getting ready to adjust it and try it out. I've never messed with Mercedes diesels. I grew up to them from my patents but when I was old enough to start working on them, we had all gas Mercedes. This is a learning curve from hell but its worth it.
(11-01-2012, 01:15 PM)omarztaco Thanks guys. Getting ready to adjust it and try it out. I've never messed with Mercedes diesels. I grew up to them from my patents but when I was old enough to start working on them, we had all gas Mercedes. This is a learning curve from hell but its worth it.
Update - after slowly adjusting the torque control half turn by half turn it took 5 and half whole turns clockwise. 6 clockwise turns made her "runaway". I cranked it back a half a turn and she didn't runaway. Took it for a drive each time I adjusted it a half turn. She still cut off at 2k. I noticed my tranny linkage was unhooked. Does that affect this? I thought that was just a kick down linkage? I hooked it back up and it ran better but in no way is it still right.
(11-01-2012, 10:54 PM)omarztaco Update - after slowly adjusting the torque control half turn by half turn it took 5 and half whole turns clockwise. 6 clockwise turns made her "runaway". I cranked it back a half a turn and she didn't runaway. Took it for a drive each time I adjusted it a half turn. She still cut off at 2k. I noticed my tranny linkage was unhooked. Does that affect this? I thought that was just a kick down linkage? I hooked it back up and it ran better but in no way is it still right.
(11-01-2012, 10:54 PM)omarztaco Update - after slowly adjusting the torque control half turn by half turn it took 5 and half whole turns clockwise. 6 clockwise turns made her "runaway". I cranked it back a half a turn and she didn't runaway. Took it for a drive each time I adjusted it a half turn. She still cut off at 2k. I noticed my tranny linkage was unhooked. Does that affect this? I thought that was just a kick down linkage? I hooked it back up and it ran better but in no way is it still right.
(11-01-2012, 10:54 PM)omarztaco Update - after slowly adjusting the torque control half turn by half turn it took 5 and half whole turns clockwise. 6 clockwise turns made her "runaway". I cranked it back a half a turn and she didn't runaway. Took it for a drive each time I adjusted it a half turn. She still cut off at 2k. I noticed my tranny linkage was unhooked. Does that affect this? I thought that was just a kick down linkage? I hooked it back up and it ran better but in no way is it still right.
(11-01-2012, 10:54 PM)omarztaco Update - after slowly adjusting the torque control half turn by half turn it took 5 and half whole turns clockwise. 6 clockwise turns made her "runaway". I cranked it back a half a turn and she didn't runaway. Took it for a drive each time I adjusted it a half turn. She still cut off at 2k. I noticed my tranny linkage was unhooked. Does that affect this? I thought that was just a kick down linkage? I hooked it back up and it ran better but in no way is it still right.
I just noticed that linkage unhooked yesterday. I haven't had a tranny problems that I know of? I just realized yesterday that she is shifting from 1st to 4th.
Ok after checking vacuum lines, I found this tucked under my IP. It connects to a blue thing on the strut tower. No clue what it is or what it does. The picture is crappy I know but there is a screw plug into the end of two vacuum lines.
http://m1296.photobucket.com/albums/omar...eEd8LSg%3D
(11-02-2012, 04:01 PM)omarztaco I just noticed that linkage unhooked yesterday. I haven't had a tranny problems that I know of? I just realized yesterday that she is shifting from 1st to 4th.
(11-02-2012, 04:01 PM)omarztaco I just noticed that linkage unhooked yesterday. I haven't had a tranny problems that I know of? I just realized yesterday that she is shifting from 1st to 4th.
Update- hooked the "Bowden cable back up and I've been adjusting it. Running a 100x better. She's holding each gear and revving good. Still more tweaking to get it right but its night and day difference. Question, would it be a good idea to adjust my torque control back to where It was. Since that obviously didn't change what it was doing.
I've been tinkering with the bowden cable and now 1st climbs to 3500rpm's before shifting into second. From 2nd gear on it is very doggish and still has a "cut off feel" to it. it is revving a little higher now but still no luck. I'm literally searching all forums but I cannot come up with a solution. I changed tranny fluid and filter last week, Fuel filter etc. Full open 3" exhaust from turbo back, removed EGR, vaccum lines, ALDA removed etc. There is a place in Columbus Ohio that does heavy diesel work for pulling trucks and such. Maybe I should take it to them? I opened up a can of worms by messing with the wrongs adjustments in the IP and I'm paying the price but now I'm at my limit. I wish you guys were closer and could have you pysically look at this car.
That torque control adjust which you did isn't dangerous so you can keep it that way. How high does your engine rev when you put your gearstick to "2-gear" position (I don't know word for it)? It should rev up to ~4700-5000 rpm.
You should be able to shift it manually. That trans has problems and it would appear that someone started disconnecting everything to remove it.
There is a governor in the trans that may have an issue, Regardless, the trans needs to be diagnosed and repaired, or swapped out. It is still shifting out of sequence.
Oh, I thought that it shifts at 3500 at full throttle. If it does that on normal acceleration it's really shifting too late. Your kick down cable is too tight then. You can loosen it from the adjust which is behind the ip.
But then again problem could be a faulty tranny. It's just weird if everything worked fine before you begin to adjust the ip.
(11-03-2012, 12:07 PM)OM616 You should be able to shift it manually. That trans has problems and it would appear that someone started disconnecting everything to remove it.
There is a governor in the trans that may have an issue, Regardless, the trans needs to be diagnosed and repaired, or swapped out. It is still shifting out of sequence.
Here is another video after tinkering with the bowden cable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwy3zrs5m20&feature=plcp
(11-03-2012, 12:07 PM)OM616 You should be able to shift it manually. That trans has problems and it would appear that someone started disconnecting everything to remove it.
There is a governor in the trans that may have an issue, Regardless, the trans needs to be diagnosed and repaired, or swapped out. It is still shifting out of sequence.
Is the throttle linkage adjusted properly so the IP is seeing full throttle? My understanding of the RSF Governor is when you do a full load (rack Limiter) adjustment, you also have to adjust the throttle linkage.
The engine does not sound like it is trying to build power at all.
HOLD ON A SECOND!!! EDIT:
I was in the shower reviewing the information in this thread in my head and realized something. If it is true that the car ran normally prior to any governor adjustments, (hard to believe because the trans was not hooked up properly), then I have a question, WHICH WAY DID YOU TURN THE FULL LOAD SCREW??? Did you turn it in, or out?
The videos have been very helpful as I can hear what the engine sounds like, and at 3K RPM, it should be making power enough to hear it working its ass off to be held at 3K, but if you had not said that you had it floored, I would have thought you were barely pressing on the pedal.
I bet you turned the full load screw the wrong way and actually reduced the fueling capability instead of increasing it. Which way did you turn it????
I have not played with the RSF Governor, but have a lot of experience with the RW Governor used on MW pumps. From what I have read on the RSF Governor, you back out the full load screw, as in turn it CCW to increase fueling, if you turned it in, (CW), then you reduced the fueling.
(11-04-2012, 12:02 AM)OM616 Is the throttle linkage adjusted properly so the IP is seeing full throttle? My understanding of the RSF Governor is when you do a full load (rack Limiter) adjustment, you also have to adjust the throttle linkage.
The engine does not sound like it is trying to build power at all.
HOLD ON A SECOND!!! EDIT:
I was in the shower reviewing the information in this thread in my head and realized something. If it is true that the car ran normally prior to any governor adjustments, (hard to believe because the trans was not hooked up properly), then I have a question, WHICH WAY DID YOU TURN THE FULL LOAD SCREW??? Did you turn it in, or out?
The videos have been very helpful as I can hear what the engine sounds like, and at 3K RPM, it should be making power enough to hear it working its ass off to be held at 3K, but if you had not said that you had it floored, I would have thought you were barely pressing on the pedal.
I bet you turned the full load screw the wrong way and actually reduced the fueling capability instead of increasing it. Which way did you turn it????
I have not played with the RSF Governor, but have a lot of experience with the RW Governor used on MW pumps. From what I have read on the RSF Governor, you back out the full load screw, as in turn it CCW to increase fueling, if you turned it in, (CW), then you reduced the fueling.
(11-04-2012, 12:02 AM)OM616 Is the throttle linkage adjusted properly so the IP is seeing full throttle? My understanding of the RSF Governor is when you do a full load (rack Limiter) adjustment, you also have to adjust the throttle linkage.
The engine does not sound like it is trying to build power at all.
HOLD ON A SECOND!!! EDIT:
I was in the shower reviewing the information in this thread in my head and realized something. If it is true that the car ran normally prior to any governor adjustments, (hard to believe because the trans was not hooked up properly), then I have a question, WHICH WAY DID YOU TURN THE FULL LOAD SCREW??? Did you turn it in, or out?
The videos have been very helpful as I can hear what the engine sounds like, and at 3K RPM, it should be making power enough to hear it working its ass off to be held at 3K, but if you had not said that you had it floored, I would have thought you were barely pressing on the pedal.
I bet you turned the full load screw the wrong way and actually reduced the fueling capability instead of increasing it. Which way did you turn it????
I have not played with the RSF Governor, but have a lot of experience with the RW Governor used on MW pumps. From what I have read on the RSF Governor, you back out the full load screw, as in turn it CCW to increase fueling, if you turned it in, (CW), then you reduced the fueling.
You really need to plead with Dieselmeken to help you. I have not played with the RSF Governor, and there are a lot of things that are not right on your car. We are all spinning our wheals with this, there is just too much wrong to diagnose remotely. I recommend selling the car, or taking it to a MB shop, they will pull the pump and send it out to be recalibrated and they can address the trans problems.
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I was hoping it would not come down to that. Thank OM616 for all your help! I have a basketcase on my hands but I'm determined to over come this. This car is my "Elanor" from Gone in sixty seconds. My parents bought one of these in 96 with 48k on it. Around a 80k I filled it with gasoline at a pump one day. Then, around 100k, the crank went out. Then, about 2k after the new motor my dad crahed the car and almost died. It has been a cursed car from my childhood and now is proving to be the same thing again. I will continue to mess with it until I give up and send her to MB. If any new breakthroughs occur I will update you.
(11-04-2012, 08:01 PM)aaa You could swap another pump on. Although timing isn't fun.