Jeep Comanche project
Jeep Comanche project
Cheers
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Hi I am new to this forum, a friend and I are building a Jeep Comanche with an OM617 in it from a '78 300SD with 106k mi. The transmission is an AX-15 and t/c a np231. Motor mounts are hydraulic units from early 90's f-150s with the 300 six. Radiator is from a 4.0 six cylinder Jeep. I am almost done with the engine side of things, still need to fasten and plumb the oil cooler, and adapt the jeep coolant temp sensor to the mercedes engine, the truck is getting a flatbed. Here are a few pictures of the build. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-16-2012, 09:04 AM #2That's awesome! If you're looking for more power, I'd start by making sure everything is up to snuff (valve adjustment, timing chain stretch, injector pop/spray, injection pump drip timing) then move on to the cheap trucks....
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I've been itching to do this to my XJ for a while now. Those things are a great candidate for this motor swap... much lighter than the chassis it came out of... Who made the adapter plate?
can't wait to see the outcome!
do you have any plans on relocating the oil cooler?
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
11-17-2012, 04:56 AM #3Nice MJ!
I've been itching to do this to my XJ for a while now. Those things are a great candidate for this motor swap... much lighter than the chassis it came out of... Who made the adapter plate?
can't wait to see the outcome!
do you have any plans on relocating the oil cooler?
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
Thanks! I did adjust the valves, timing chain seemed really good. The motor ran great on the pallet so That's as far as I went. The oil cooler will be going inside the front bumper I think. The plate was made by Nathan Koch from mercedesdiesel4x4.com. It is a going to be a great motor I think too, it does take a lot of fabrication. I might still have to notch the oilpan bc the drop pitman arm clears it by about 1/16".
I have a question about the ALDA, when I bought the motor it was already pulled and didn't get the ALDA boost switch-over valve. What should I do, hook the ALDA straight to the banjo bolt on the manifold, or try and get that switch-over valve? Thanks in advance gents
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-27-2012, 02:07 PM #9Awesome
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
![[Image: DSC_0177.jpg]](http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp323/gaucho919/DSC_0177.jpg)
Though it is tough to see how it made it to the pan. Did you take the pan off? Maybe it fell down the dipstick tube.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
looks like the ones at the end of one of the throttle linkage rods.
Though it is tough to see how it made it to the pan. Did you take the pan off? Maybe it fell down the dipstick tube.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
or
something from the vac pump
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-27-2012, 10:02 PM #14Oil pump drive chain maybe
or
something from the vac pump
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(12-27-2012, 07:03 PM)Gaucho919 Found this tiny snap ring in my oil pan today, anyone know where it could have come from?
Austincarnut
12-28-2012, 12:44 PM #15that is the snap ring that holds the ferrule, spring and tensioner for the oil pump chain, you might want to drop the pan and make sure your tensioner is in order before something kills your oil pump as they cost a mere $400 or so. While you're in there you should check out your oil pump pickup rubber as they deteriorate and can cause aeration and starvation of the pump.
(12-27-2012, 07:03 PM)Gaucho919 Found this tiny snap ring in my oil pan today, anyone know where it could have come from?
(12-28-2012, 07:38 PM)Gaucho919 Thank you, I was just looking for and exploded view and that seems to be it. Might have to pull the hole pump this time not just the sump pan. The oil pick rubber is in great shape.
Austincarnut
12-28-2012, 07:42 PM #17As long as the relief is not damaged, your ferrule isn't worn and your tensioner is intact, you can get another clip or replace with a snap ring, otherwise the upper pan comes off, no fun...
(12-28-2012, 07:38 PM)Gaucho919 Thank you, I was just looking for and exploded view and that seems to be it. Might have to pull the hole pump this time not just the sump pan. The oil pick rubber is in great shape.
When pulling the whole oil pan, do the crankshaft seals come into play at all? or does it pull straight down?
(01-03-2013, 10:44 PM)Gaucho919 Was able to sneak a snap ring back in there without pulling the top pan. And rolled the jeep outside to let the motor run for a while. Once warm I got a bit trigger happy ha.
That thing is badass!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-10-2013, 01:52 AM #20(01-03-2013, 10:44 PM)Gaucho919 Was able to sneak a snap ring back in there without pulling the top pan. And rolled the jeep outside to let the motor run for a while. Once warm I got a bit trigger happy ha.
That thing is badass!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
So do you have any pictures of your front end clearances? Did you use the stock trackbar?.
I have a 1" drop pitman arm and adjustable track bar on order. I am pretty sure I will have to fab up a new track bar mount.
Do you look at dieselbomber.com?
where did you find such a clean MJ. I have never seen one that was not a pile of rust. How is your conversion going. I am at the suspension and steering mods on mine. I am not sure about notching the pan. I have seen several people do that.. are you running a manual or the AW4. I have the AW4. My engine is not sounding rite, very loud at idle, quiets down a bit at speed. I was thinking that I screwed up the engine, I gave it just the tiniest tiniest hint of ether, it started rite off, and sounded great, I shut it down to check for leaks, and then did the same thing again. and now it really clatters. Hopefully a valve adjustment will sort out the clatter, but I am sceptical
So do you have any pictures of your front end clearances? Did you use the stock trackbar?.
I have a 1" drop pitman arm and adjustable track bar on order. I am pretty sure I will have to fab up a new track bar mount.
Do you look at dieselbomber.com?
(03-02-2013, 03:41 PM)xjdiesel where did you find such a clean MJ. I have never seen one that was not a pile of rust. How is your conversion going. I am at the suspension and steering mods on mine. I am not sure about notching the pan. I have seen several people do that.. are you running a manual or the AW4. I have the AW4. My engine is not sounding rite, very loud at idle, quiets down a bit at speed. I was thinking that I screwed up the engine, I gave it just the tiniest tiniest hint of ether, it started rite off, and sounded great, I shut it down to check for leaks, and then did the same thing again. and now it really clatters. Hopefully a valve adjustment will sort out the clatter, but I am sceptical
So do you have any pictures of your front end clearances? Did you use the stock trackbar?.
I have a 1" drop pitman arm and adjustable track bar on order. I am pretty sure I will have to fab up a new track bar mount.
Do you look at dieselbomber.com?
where are you in tx
Austincarnut
03-03-2013, 12:06 PM #22(03-02-2013, 03:41 PM)xjdiesel where did you find such a clean MJ. I have never seen one that was not a pile of rust. How is your conversion going. I am at the suspension and steering mods on mine. I am not sure about notching the pan. I have seen several people do that.. are you running a manual or the AW4. I have the AW4. My engine is not sounding rite, very loud at idle, quiets down a bit at speed. I was thinking that I screwed up the engine, I gave it just the tiniest tiniest hint of ether, it started rite off, and sounded great, I shut it down to check for leaks, and then did the same thing again. and now it really clatters. Hopefully a valve adjustment will sort out the clatter, but I am sceptical
So do you have any pictures of your front end clearances? Did you use the stock trackbar?.
I have a 1" drop pitman arm and adjustable track bar on order. I am pretty sure I will have to fab up a new track bar mount.
Do you look at dieselbomber.com?
where are you in tx
Port aransas, Texas about a mile from the gulf. I am still trying to figure out my loud clatter. you can see the more detailed write up at help putting a old engine back in service. Still no luck. the thing that gets me is it ran good for about 30 seconds and then it screwed up vlave adjustment did not help. running remote fuel supply did not help. should have a new secondary fuel filter tomorrow
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-18-2013, 08:37 AM #25If you're getting a clatter that's not a good clatter your injectors need servicing, and possibly your timing is off
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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