Prechamber Mod "Flame" Front
Prechamber Mod "Flame" Front
12-27-2012, 03:08 AM
#251
(12-26-2012, 11:22 PM)OM616(12-26-2012, 07:30 PM)Turbo OM616
Do you know if Jeemu posted some numbers of the bigger injectors and the change of the nozzle hole for the prechamber?
As far as posting actual hole sizes, not that I know of. I have spoken with him privately though. He is a very nice fellow. I do not feel at liberty to share specifically what we talked about though, as he has not posted it for a reason I suppose.
They are very competitive with these engines over there so any technical advantage is a benefit, so very little will ever be posted for all to see.
This post was last modified: 12-30-2012, 12:04 PM by Turbo.
Jeemu is a very nice Guy, but love secrets
(12-26-2012, 11:22 PM)OM616(12-26-2012, 07:30 PM)Turbo OM616
Do you know if Jeemu posted some numbers of the bigger injectors and the change of the nozzle hole for the prechamber?
As far as posting actual hole sizes, not that I know of. I have spoken with him privately though. He is a very nice fellow. I do not feel at liberty to share specifically what we talked about though, as he has not posted it for a reason I suppose.
They are very competitive with these engines over there so any technical advantage is a benefit, so very little will ever be posted for all to see.
12-27-2012, 06:12 PM
#252
(12-26-2012, 06:11 PM)OM616(12-24-2012, 05:42 PM)MFSuper90 How did you go about enlarging the injector seat? And what is the purpose of doing this?
I have an extra head laying around so I think I will try out some modded PC's also. Sounds like a cheap and worthwhile mod
I used my lathe and a boring bar. You do not want to use a drill!!! You will hit the ball!!!
I imagine the larger area helps clear out the injector tip with fresh air. MB says to do this to help reduce smoke, and it is standard on 85 models I think.
I don't have a boring bar small enough to do that, so maybe I'll just skip that step.
Our lathe is a hendley that was used in WWII, good lathe but its much too big for something as small as a prechamber
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(12-26-2012, 06:11 PM)OM616(12-24-2012, 05:42 PM)MFSuper90 How did you go about enlarging the injector seat? And what is the purpose of doing this?
I have an extra head laying around so I think I will try out some modded PC's also. Sounds like a cheap and worthwhile mod
I used my lathe and a boring bar. You do not want to use a drill!!! You will hit the ball!!!
I imagine the larger area helps clear out the injector tip with fresh air. MB says to do this to help reduce smoke, and it is standard on 85 models I think.
I don't have a boring bar small enough to do that, so maybe I'll just skip that step.
Our lathe is a hendley that was used in WWII, good lathe but its much too big for something as small as a prechamber
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
12-27-2012, 09:43 PM
#253
(12-27-2012, 06:12 PM)MFSuper90(12-26-2012, 06:11 PM)OM616(12-24-2012, 05:42 PM)MFSuper90 How did you go about enlarging the injector seat? And what is the purpose of doing this?
I have an extra head laying around so I think I will try out some modded PC's also. Sounds like a cheap and worthwhile mod
I used my lathe and a boring bar. You do not want to use a drill!!! You will hit the ball!!!
I imagine the larger area helps clear out the injector tip with fresh air. MB says to do this to help reduce smoke, and it is standard on 85 models I think.
I don't have a boring bar small enough to do that, so maybe I'll just skip that step.
Our lathe is a hendley that was used in WWII, good lathe but its much too big for something as small as a prechamber
Oh come on you pansy!!!
I learned on a belt driven lathe that was originally powered by a steam engine, lol. However, if you are not confident using the machine, you are right not to try it.
(12-27-2012, 06:12 PM)MFSuper90(12-26-2012, 06:11 PM)OM616(12-24-2012, 05:42 PM)MFSuper90 How did you go about enlarging the injector seat? And what is the purpose of doing this?
I have an extra head laying around so I think I will try out some modded PC's also. Sounds like a cheap and worthwhile mod
I used my lathe and a boring bar. You do not want to use a drill!!! You will hit the ball!!!
I imagine the larger area helps clear out the injector tip with fresh air. MB says to do this to help reduce smoke, and it is standard on 85 models I think.
I don't have a boring bar small enough to do that, so maybe I'll just skip that step.
Our lathe is a hendley that was used in WWII, good lathe but its much too big for something as small as a prechamber
Oh come on you pansy!!!
I learned on a belt driven lathe that was originally powered by a steam engine, lol. However, if you are not confident using the machine, you are right not to try it.
12-27-2012, 11:00 PM
#254
Can't wait to get my crank puller in the mail and try some new chambers!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
The real problem is my smallest boring bar is like 3/4"
Can't wait to get my crank puller in the mail and try some new chambers!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
12-30-2012, 10:45 AM
#255
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
I'd love to buy a set of altered/enlarged PC's for my wagon with the MYNA pump.... I'd make it worth someone's time!
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
12-30-2012, 01:12 PM
#256
(12-30-2012, 10:45 AM)MTUPower I'd love to buy a set of altered/enlarged PC's for my wagon with the MYNA pump.... I'd make it worth someone's time!
They would definitely help with the smoking and you would notice the additional power. The thing is getting some good used PC for your engine. New ones are way to expensive.
Do you have the special tools to pull the PCs?
(12-30-2012, 10:45 AM)MTUPower I'd love to buy a set of altered/enlarged PC's for my wagon with the MYNA pump.... I'd make it worth someone's time!
They would definitely help with the smoking and you would notice the additional power. The thing is getting some good used PC for your engine. New ones are way to expensive.
Do you have the special tools to pull the PCs?
12-31-2012, 10:20 AM
#257
(12-30-2012, 01:12 PM)OM616- No but I can go get a whole head from the junkyard and have my indie loan me the tool if I have no other alternative. Interested if I get some PC's? Thanks!(12-30-2012, 10:45 AM)MTUPower I'd love to buy a set of altered/enlarged PC's for my wagon with the MYNA pump.... I'd make it worth someone's time!
They would definitely help with the smoking and you would notice the additional power. The thing is getting some good used PC for your engine. New ones are way to expensive.
Do you have the special tools to pull the PCs?
edit: It might be easier to get the tool and pull them at the yard. Anyone want to loan/rent the tool to me?
This post was last modified: 12-31-2012, 10:22 AM by MTUPower.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
(12-30-2012, 01:12 PM)OM616- No but I can go get a whole head from the junkyard and have my indie loan me the tool if I have no other alternative. Interested if I get some PC's? Thanks!(12-30-2012, 10:45 AM)MTUPower I'd love to buy a set of altered/enlarged PC's for my wagon with the MYNA pump.... I'd make it worth someone's time!
They would definitely help with the smoking and you would notice the additional power. The thing is getting some good used PC for your engine. New ones are way to expensive.
Do you have the special tools to pull the PCs?
edit: It might be easier to get the tool and pull them at the yard. Anyone want to loan/rent the tool to me?
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
12-31-2012, 12:22 PM
#258
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-02-2013, 08:39 AM
#259
(12-31-2012, 12:22 PM)MFSuper90 I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
I have a cracked head with 1985 PCs in it riding around in the back seat of my car. Want to lend me that tool once you confirm it works?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-02-2013, 08:39 AM #259(12-31-2012, 12:22 PM)MFSuper90 I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
I have a cracked head with 1985 PCs in it riding around in the back seat of my car. Want to lend me that tool once you confirm it works?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
01-02-2013, 12:48 PM
#260
(01-02-2013, 08:39 AM)Simpler=Better(12-31-2012, 12:22 PM)MFSuper90 I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
I have a cracked head with 1985 PCs in it riding around in the back seat of my car. Want to lend me that tool once you confirm it works?
Well got the tool made, looks kinda jerry-rigged, but it works pretty good. Simpler=Better, I'll see what i can do.
Pulled my PC's and the big middle hole measures .132, the smaller outside ones measure .120, and the small ones on the backside of the PC measure .092
I am going to have a local shop open up the seat ID to 14mm and drop the seat 1mm, then ream them out myself.
Any ideas on how much bigger I should go?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(01-02-2013, 08:39 AM)Simpler=Better(12-31-2012, 12:22 PM)MFSuper90 I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
I have a cracked head with 1985 PCs in it riding around in the back seat of my car. Want to lend me that tool once you confirm it works?
Well got the tool made, looks kinda jerry-rigged, but it works pretty good. Simpler=Better, I'll see what i can do.
Pulled my PC's and the big middle hole measures .132, the smaller outside ones measure .120, and the small ones on the backside of the PC measure .092
I am going to have a local shop open up the seat ID to 14mm and drop the seat 1mm, then ream them out myself.
Any ideas on how much bigger I should go?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-02-2013, 01:01 PM
#261
This post was last modified: 01-02-2013, 01:02 PM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-02-2013, 01:01 PM #261I think that 0.136" was the biggest OM616 has gone so far. Can you try a homemade sandblast/extrude hone to radius the inner edge of the holes?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
01-02-2013, 01:20 PM
#262
(01-02-2013, 01:01 PM)Simpler=Better I think that 0.136" was the biggest OM616 has gone so far. Can you try a homemade sandblast/extrude hone to radius the inner edge of the holes?
It should be noted that am currently running .136" dia holes on my 616 PCs which have a smaller burn tube ID than the 617a PC.
When I go to install the new injectors, I am going to increase the holes to probably .145"
My goal is to have more hole area than the burn tube has so the pressure head is at the base of the burn tube, which should increase the filling velocity and chamber swirl.
The 617 pc has a larger burn tube ID, so it would require larger holes to match the area % differential I am currently running in my 616.
It is possible to add a hole between the two on the back side, this would allow for overall smaller holes while increasing total area, tapering the inlets sounds like a nice thing too.
If you add an additional hole, do not use a regular drill bit, I would recommend using a M.A. FORD, Hi-Rock drill, it is made for hardened steel and is very rigid, makes a nice clean hole. Or any other straight flute drill for hardened steel for that matter would be better than a helical flute drill.
(01-02-2013, 01:01 PM)Simpler=Better I think that 0.136" was the biggest OM616 has gone so far. Can you try a homemade sandblast/extrude hone to radius the inner edge of the holes?
It should be noted that am currently running .136" dia holes on my 616 PCs which have a smaller burn tube ID than the 617a PC.
When I go to install the new injectors, I am going to increase the holes to probably .145"
My goal is to have more hole area than the burn tube has so the pressure head is at the base of the burn tube, which should increase the filling velocity and chamber swirl.
The 617 pc has a larger burn tube ID, so it would require larger holes to match the area % differential I am currently running in my 616.
It is possible to add a hole between the two on the back side, this would allow for overall smaller holes while increasing total area, tapering the inlets sounds like a nice thing too.
If you add an additional hole, do not use a regular drill bit, I would recommend using a M.A. FORD, Hi-Rock drill, it is made for hardened steel and is very rigid, makes a nice clean hole. Or any other straight flute drill for hardened steel for that matter would be better than a helical flute drill.
01-02-2013, 02:30 PM
#263
Are you making all the holes the same size?
I was think of just taking the stock hole size for each one (except the small drain hole at the tip) and increasing them by say, maybe .01?
So it would be like one .142 hole, two .130, and two .100?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Om616,
Are you making all the holes the same size?
I was think of just taking the stock hole size for each one (except the small drain hole at the tip) and increasing them by say, maybe .01?
So it would be like one .142 hole, two .130, and two .100?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-02-2013, 04:30 PM
#264
(01-02-2013, 02:30 PM)MFSuper90 Om616,
Are you making all the holes the same size?
I was think of just taking the stock hole size for each one (except the small drain hole at the tip) and increasing them by say, maybe .01?
So it would be like one .142 hole, two .130, and two .100?
LOL.... I opened them all up the same, but do what you feel comfortable with, anything that helps the PC breath better will help. I did not taper or bevel the holes on mine, so I will add that next time.
A member posted that all he did was taper the holes and saw a benefit. Now that you have the tools to pull the PCs, you can always increase them later if you want.
(01-02-2013, 02:30 PM)MFSuper90 Om616,
Are you making all the holes the same size?
I was think of just taking the stock hole size for each one (except the small drain hole at the tip) and increasing them by say, maybe .01?
So it would be like one .142 hole, two .130, and two .100?
LOL.... I opened them all up the same, but do what you feel comfortable with, anything that helps the PC breath better will help. I did not taper or bevel the holes on mine, so I will add that next time.
A member posted that all he did was taper the holes and saw a benefit. Now that you have the tools to pull the PCs, you can always increase them later if you want.
01-02-2013, 04:38 PM
#265
(01-02-2013, 04:30 PM)OM616(01-02-2013, 02:30 PM)MFSuper90 Om616,
Are you making all the holes the same size?
I was think of just taking the stock hole size for each one (except the small drain hole at the tip) and increasing them by say, maybe .01?
So it would be like one .142 hole, two .130, and two .100?
LOL.... I opened them all up the same, but do what you feel comfortable with, anything that helps the PC breath better will help. I did not taper or bevel the holes on mine, so I will add that next time.
A member posted that all he did was taper the holes and saw a benefit. Now that you have the tools to pull the PCs, you can always increase them later if you want.
Hmmm. Decisions, Decisions
I think I will leave them in the same size ratio (one big surround by two smaller) and open the back holes up some too. There has to be some reason why Mercedes didn't leave them all the same size.
And as you said, I can always go bigger
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(01-02-2013, 04:30 PM)OM616(01-02-2013, 02:30 PM)MFSuper90 Om616,
Are you making all the holes the same size?
I was think of just taking the stock hole size for each one (except the small drain hole at the tip) and increasing them by say, maybe .01?
So it would be like one .142 hole, two .130, and two .100?
LOL.... I opened them all up the same, but do what you feel comfortable with, anything that helps the PC breath better will help. I did not taper or bevel the holes on mine, so I will add that next time.
A member posted that all he did was taper the holes and saw a benefit. Now that you have the tools to pull the PCs, you can always increase them later if you want.
Hmmm. Decisions, Decisions
I think I will leave them in the same size ratio (one big surround by two smaller) and open the back holes up some too. There has to be some reason why Mercedes didn't leave them all the same size.
And as you said, I can always go bigger
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-02-2013, 04:50 PM
#266
(01-02-2013, 04:38 PM)MFSuper90 Hmmm. Decisions, Decisions
I think I will leave them in the same size ratio (one big surround by two smaller) and open the back holes up some too. There has to be some reason why Mercedes didn't leave them all the same size.
And as you said, I can always go bigger
I’m sure MB was worried about emissions, some complex post ignition swirl in the cylinder, or who knows what. If you look a swirl chamber head like a VW has, it only has one big hole. Who knows what MB was thinking.
MB changed the holes size a couple of times up and down, who knows what complex issues the engineers were creating so they could solve them.
(01-02-2013, 04:38 PM)MFSuper90 Hmmm. Decisions, Decisions
I think I will leave them in the same size ratio (one big surround by two smaller) and open the back holes up some too. There has to be some reason why Mercedes didn't leave them all the same size.
And as you said, I can always go bigger
I’m sure MB was worried about emissions, some complex post ignition swirl in the cylinder, or who knows what. If you look a swirl chamber head like a VW has, it only has one big hole. Who knows what MB was thinking.
MB changed the holes size a couple of times up and down, who knows what complex issues the engineers were creating so they could solve them.
01-02-2013, 09:49 PM
#268
(12-31-2012, 12:22 PM)MFSuper90 I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
Got a picture of your tool?
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
(12-31-2012, 12:22 PM)MFSuper90 I got the crank puller today to make my own PC puller tool, Have to weld some stuff up then see if she works
Got a picture of your tool?
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
01-03-2013, 07:45 AM
#270
(01-02-2013, 10:18 PM)larsalan(01-02-2013, 09:49 PM)MTUPower Got a picture of your tool?
where is this thread headed?
I little bit of everywhere
I don't really have anyway to upload pics to my computer, or I don't know how
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(01-02-2013, 10:18 PM)larsalan(01-02-2013, 09:49 PM)MTUPower Got a picture of your tool?
where is this thread headed?
I little bit of everywhere
I don't really have anyway to upload pics to my computer, or I don't know how
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-03-2013, 03:48 PM
#271
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-03-2013, 03:48 PM #271wutwut!?!?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
01-23-2013, 06:03 PM
#274
(01-23-2013, 05:42 PM)lpumb3 how would one determine if he has good or bad PCs? cracks , wHite metal ?
Sure indications:
![[Image: prechamber1.jpg]](http://winmutt.com/images/benz/w123%20maintentance/om617%20broken%20prechamber/prechamber1.jpg)
![[Image: prechamber2.jpg]](http://winmutt.com/images/benz/w123%20maintentance/om617%20broken%20prechamber/prechamber2.jpg)
![[Image: prechamber3.jpg]](http://winmutt.com/images/benz/w123%20maintentance/om617%20broken%20prechamber/prechamber3.jpg)
As you can kind of see in #2, the atomizer is gone as well. Probably what made the whole in the bottom...
This post was last modified: 01-23-2013, 06:06 PM by winmutt.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(01-23-2013, 05:42 PM)lpumb3 how would one determine if he has good or bad PCs? cracks , wHite metal ?
Sure indications:
As you can kind of see in #2, the atomizer is gone as well. Probably what made the whole in the bottom...
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
01-25-2013, 07:08 PM
#276
(01-25-2013, 05:03 PM)OM616 The tools I made are not as pretty as yours...
Now your just showing off
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-26-2013, 06:04 PM
#277
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
What reamers are you guys using to open up the holes? I am trying to decide what to buy...
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-27-2013, 11:24 AM
#280
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-27-2013, 11:24 AM #280A solid carbide boring bar for the center, and some nice .140 (?) diam carbide reamers for the holes
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
01-28-2013, 12:51 PM
#281
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Pr...0735030382
I just saw this link over on PP by gxsr. This is a tool to remove the lock ring to remove the PC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Pr...0735030382
01-30-2013, 01:50 PM
#284
You use reamers to open up the holes, so do you get a set of them and just keep going up one size at a time? or get a drill bit, drill it, then clean it up with a reamer?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Help me out here, maybe I am just having a brain fart.
You use reamers to open up the holes, so do you get a set of them and just keep going up one size at a time? or get a drill bit, drill it, then clean it up with a reamer?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
01-30-2013, 02:05 PM
#285
(01-23-2013, 06:03 PM)winmutt(01-23-2013, 05:42 PM)lpumb3 how would one determine if he has good or bad PCs? cracks , wHite metal ?
Sure indications:
As you can kind of see in #2, the atomizer is gone as well. Probably what made the whole in the bottom...
thanks for the pics ,
question should i get these out of the head before i remove it ? will in be a pita if i pull the head off now and set it asside to deal with later when i have the $ for a tool ?
(01-23-2013, 06:03 PM)winmutt(01-23-2013, 05:42 PM)lpumb3 how would one determine if he has good or bad PCs? cracks , wHite metal ?
Sure indications:
As you can kind of see in #2, the atomizer is gone as well. Probably what made the whole in the bottom...
thanks for the pics ,
question should i get these out of the head before i remove it ? will in be a pita if i pull the head off now and set it asside to deal with later when i have the $ for a tool ?
02-01-2013, 03:48 PM
#287
(02-01-2013, 02:48 PM)ConnClark Has anybody done a dyno test on this yet or are we still in the realm of power increases using HHO ?
If anyone near Canton, NY and has a W123 and two sets of PCs/crush washers I can get a dyno run scheduled.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-01-2013, 03:48 PM #287(02-01-2013, 02:48 PM)ConnClark Has anybody done a dyno test on this yet or are we still in the realm of power increases using HHO ?
If anyone near Canton, NY and has a W123 and two sets of PCs/crush washers I can get a dyno run scheduled.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-01-2013, 05:19 PM
#289
(02-01-2013, 04:57 PM)winmutt AFAIK this is only a mod for when you are pushing too much fuel.
I'm not pushing to much fuel, I am just doing it for the fun of it
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(02-01-2013, 04:57 PM)winmutt AFAIK this is only a mod for when you are pushing too much fuel.
I'm not pushing to much fuel, I am just doing it for the fun of it
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
02-01-2013, 10:17 PM
#291
I have not dyno'd but did do some hill climb tests,and it did show a noticeable improvement. I am pushing a good bit of fuel, or at least as much as the stock pump can do. However even at less fueling this mod helped, so have to say I think it should be done as one of the basic things to do when starting to build for performance.
02-03-2013, 09:12 PM
#292
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-03-2013, 09:12 PM #292The only problem is that hardly anybody has the pullers needed to get the precups out
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-03-2013, 09:24 PM
#293
(01-28-2013, 12:51 PM)OM616 I just saw this link over on PP by gxsr. This is a tool to remove the lock ring to remove the PC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Pr...0735030382
Go on and get one
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
(01-28-2013, 12:51 PM)OM616 I just saw this link over on PP by gxsr. This is a tool to remove the lock ring to remove the PC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Pr...0735030382
Go on and get one
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
02-03-2013, 09:56 PM
#294
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-03-2013, 09:56 PM #294Isn't there a slide hammer puller thing needed also to get the chamber out? Or do you just remove the collar nut holding it in and then it comes out?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-03-2013, 10:20 PM
#295
(12-07-2012, 05:00 AM)Captain America(12-07-2012, 01:50 AM)sassparilla_kid I may have already asked this, or it might be somewhere earlier in the thread, but how difficult is it to pull pre-chambers?
Need special tools.
http://www.mercedessource.com/node/8479
And
http://www.mercedessource.com/node/8478
as seen in Post: #242
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(12-07-2012, 05:00 AM)Captain America(12-07-2012, 01:50 AM)sassparilla_kid I may have already asked this, or it might be somewhere earlier in the thread, but how difficult is it to pull pre-chambers?
Need special tools.
http://www.mercedessource.com/node/8479
And
http://www.mercedessource.com/node/8478
as seen in Post: #242
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
06-05-2013, 06:23 PM
#297
(01-03-2013, 03:48 PM)Simpler=Better wutwut!?!?
i made something similar to this, 3 of the retaining rings came out, but two were already damaged and just got worse... so they arent coming out.. so i dont know what to do. get a huge easy out? can you buy replacement rings? i cant imagine it would be wise to go ahead and only do 3 of the 5 pre chambers..
(01-03-2013, 03:48 PM)Simpler=Better wutwut!?!?
i made something similar to this, 3 of the retaining rings came out, but two were already damaged and just got worse... so they arent coming out.. so i dont know what to do. get a huge easy out? can you buy replacement rings? i cant imagine it would be wise to go ahead and only do 3 of the 5 pre chambers..
06-05-2013, 06:32 PM
#298
(06-05-2013, 06:23 PM)poleshady i made something similar to this, 3 of the retaining rings came out, but two were already damaged and just got worse... so they arent coming out.. so i dont know what to do. get a huge easy out? can you buy replacement rings? i cant imagine it would be wise to go ahead and only do 3 of the 5 pre chambers..
Does your collar tool thread into the collar to secure it to the collar?
If you look at post 275, (I think), you will see a pic of the tools I made. The collar socket is held tight against the collar with a bolt that is inside the socket, this keeps the socket from popping off and rolling the edges of the collar.
(06-05-2013, 06:23 PM)poleshady i made something similar to this, 3 of the retaining rings came out, but two were already damaged and just got worse... so they arent coming out.. so i dont know what to do. get a huge easy out? can you buy replacement rings? i cant imagine it would be wise to go ahead and only do 3 of the 5 pre chambers..
Does your collar tool thread into the collar to secure it to the collar?
If you look at post 275, (I think), you will see a pic of the tools I made. The collar socket is held tight against the collar with a bolt that is inside the socket, this keeps the socket from popping off and rolling the edges of the collar.
06-05-2013, 06:34 PM
#299
(06-05-2013, 06:32 PM)OM616(06-05-2013, 06:23 PM)poleshady i made something similar to this, 3 of the retaining rings came out, but two were already damaged and just got worse... so they arent coming out.. so i dont know what to do. get a huge easy out? can you buy replacement rings? i cant imagine it would be wise to go ahead and only do 3 of the 5 pre chambers..
Does your collar tool thread into the collar to secure it to the collar?
If you look at post 275, (I think), you will see a pic of the tools I made. The collar socket is held tight against the collar with a bolt that is inside the socket, this keeps the socket from popping off and rolling the edges of the collar.
yeah it threads into the pre chamber not the collar itself. it cut into and took out chunks of the ring, didnt slip out
im on the phoe with the dealership now to see if they can find the part...doesnt sound promising.
luckily they can order them, 8 bucks each, now i need to find an easy out big enough.
This post was last modified: 06-05-2013, 06:40 PM by poleshady.
(06-05-2013, 06:32 PM)OM616(06-05-2013, 06:23 PM)poleshady i made something similar to this, 3 of the retaining rings came out, but two were already damaged and just got worse... so they arent coming out.. so i dont know what to do. get a huge easy out? can you buy replacement rings? i cant imagine it would be wise to go ahead and only do 3 of the 5 pre chambers..
Does your collar tool thread into the collar to secure it to the collar?
If you look at post 275, (I think), you will see a pic of the tools I made. The collar socket is held tight against the collar with a bolt that is inside the socket, this keeps the socket from popping off and rolling the edges of the collar.
yeah it threads into the pre chamber not the collar itself. it cut into and took out chunks of the ring, didnt slip out
im on the phoe with the dealership now to see if they can find the part...doesnt sound promising.
luckily they can order them, 8 bucks each, now i need to find an easy out big enough.
06-05-2013, 06:51 PM
#300
(06-05-2013, 06:34 PM)poleshady yeah it threads into the pre chamber not the collar itself. it cut into and took out chunks of the ring, didnt slip out
im on the phoe with the dealership now to see if they can find the part...doesnt sound promising.
luckily they can order them, 8 bucks each, now i need to find an easy out big enough.
If the socket is threaded into the PC it will not allow the ring to unscrew. The socket must use the threads in the ring that the injector uses, they are very coarse and the PC threads are very fine. The Fine PC threads are used to pull the PC once the ring is removed.
The Rings are available for not much money so don't worry about that. You need to make a better tool that threads into the collar, not the PC.
(06-05-2013, 06:34 PM)poleshady yeah it threads into the pre chamber not the collar itself. it cut into and took out chunks of the ring, didnt slip out
im on the phoe with the dealership now to see if they can find the part...doesnt sound promising.
luckily they can order them, 8 bucks each, now i need to find an easy out big enough.
If the socket is threaded into the PC it will not allow the ring to unscrew. The socket must use the threads in the ring that the injector uses, they are very coarse and the PC threads are very fine. The Fine PC threads are used to pull the PC once the ring is removed.
The Rings are available for not much money so don't worry about that. You need to make a better tool that threads into the collar, not the PC.
Users browsing this thread:
33 Guest(s)
33 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
33 Guest(s)
33 Guest(s)