Heater issue question
Heater issue question
01-02-2013, 11:20 PM
#1
The HEATER CIRCULATION PUMP and the HEATER CONTROL VALVE are the items on the chopping block.
Has anyone pulled these two pieces out of the system? and if so how did it work for you? Thinking about running a hose to bypass these two pieces and pull these out..
So after ordering parts to replace the broken thermostat I started to think whether or not half the stuff I found involved in the heater system is necessary!
The HEATER CIRCULATION PUMP and the HEATER CONTROL VALVE are the items on the chopping block.
Has anyone pulled these two pieces out of the system? and if so how did it work for you? Thinking about running a hose to bypass these two pieces and pull these out..
01-02-2013, 11:23 PM
#2
(01-02-2013, 11:20 PM)83300d So after ordering parts to replace the broken thermostat I started to think whether or not half the stuff I found involved in the heater system is necessary!
The HEATER CIRCULATION PUMP and the HEATER CONTROL VALVE are the items on the chopping block.
Has anyone pulled these two pieces out of the system? and if so how did it work for you? Thinking about running a hose to bypass these two pieces and pull these out..
Austincarnut
01-02-2013, 11:23 PM #2just copy a 240d setup, all manual w/cables...easy
(01-02-2013, 11:20 PM)83300d So after ordering parts to replace the broken thermostat I started to think whether or not half the stuff I found involved in the heater system is necessary!
The HEATER CIRCULATION PUMP and the HEATER CONTROL VALVE are the items on the chopping block.
Has anyone pulled these two pieces out of the system? and if so how did it work for you? Thinking about running a hose to bypass these two pieces and pull these out..
01-02-2013, 11:28 PM
#3
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
01-02-2013, 11:28 PM #3The pump is what pumps hot water through the heater core, I'm not sure if the water pump is enough to do it. The monovalve controls whether or not water is able too go through the core. There are rebuild kits to replace the seals and stuff in the valve, and I'm sure any generic 12v pump would probably work as long as it can flow a high enough gpm
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
01-06-2013, 01:01 PM
#4
I opted to delete all the factory stuff in mine. The aux pump is not missed. It works fine without it. Heres a link to my thread. http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-4132.html
01-06-2013, 07:44 PM
#5
LiL Micky
DirtDiesel
01-06-2013, 07:44 PM #5what exactly does the 240D setup involve could somebody explain as ive never had the chance to eye one down before.
LiL Micky
01-06-2013, 08:18 PM
#6
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-06-2013, 08:18 PM #6You can delete them and replace with plain pipes. Your AC won't run as cold in the summer(since the heater core will always be hot) and your idling heat won't be as hot (aux circulator removed)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
01-12-2013, 01:12 PM
#7
(01-06-2013, 07:44 PM)DirtDiesel what exactly does the 240D setup involve could somebody explain as ive never had the chance to eye one down before.
Locate a 240D donor car, wreck, jy, pnp etc...
Remove the dash, then remove the whole heater/AC/blower box.
Under the hood, remove the 3 heater hoses on the Firewall, the 2 cables on the water valve and lock rings.
Pull the knobs off the heater controls and then the nuts. think they are 22mm, needle nose VG work, they are not on all that tight. be careful with the center portion it is fragile. THIS IS OLD PLASTIC.
remove the console and side carpet.
There are several 10mm nuts and a couple straps and a brace.
removing the Steering Wheel will help to give you some more room.
trace to see what wires you need to save, and where they go. the 240 type 1 unit is much simpler than the 300D type 2 and 3.
Almost forgot. remove the two AC lines where they connect to the TX valve. front lower right.
Then it should lift out, and out the passenger side.
I have remove 4 or so of these from PNP, they are around $60.
The first one you pull is the most time consuming, then it gets easier the more you remove.
The 80 240D was the first yr they used the R-4 compressor, before that they used the York compressors.don`t know it that makes a difference or not.
80 still uses the twist knob for the AC, not sure of 81, but 82/83 went to the wheel for the AC control. don`t know if one is more reliable than the other.
There is a 50% sale coming up on Jan 17 thru the 21st.
Well actually if you have the Tool Kit rewards card, you get to start on the 17 a day before most of the idiots start ripping things apart.
here is a good thread on diving in.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123Evaporator
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...rsion.html
Charlie
This post was last modified: 01-12-2013, 01:15 PM by charmalu.
(01-06-2013, 07:44 PM)DirtDiesel what exactly does the 240D setup involve could somebody explain as ive never had the chance to eye one down before.
Locate a 240D donor car, wreck, jy, pnp etc...
Remove the dash, then remove the whole heater/AC/blower box.
Under the hood, remove the 3 heater hoses on the Firewall, the 2 cables on the water valve and lock rings.
Pull the knobs off the heater controls and then the nuts. think they are 22mm, needle nose VG work, they are not on all that tight. be careful with the center portion it is fragile. THIS IS OLD PLASTIC.
remove the console and side carpet.
There are several 10mm nuts and a couple straps and a brace.
removing the Steering Wheel will help to give you some more room.
trace to see what wires you need to save, and where they go. the 240 type 1 unit is much simpler than the 300D type 2 and 3.
Almost forgot. remove the two AC lines where they connect to the TX valve. front lower right.
Then it should lift out, and out the passenger side.
I have remove 4 or so of these from PNP, they are around $60.
The first one you pull is the most time consuming, then it gets easier the more you remove.
The 80 240D was the first yr they used the R-4 compressor, before that they used the York compressors.don`t know it that makes a difference or not.
80 still uses the twist knob for the AC, not sure of 81, but 82/83 went to the wheel for the AC control. don`t know if one is more reliable than the other.
There is a 50% sale coming up on Jan 17 thru the 21st.
Well actually if you have the Tool Kit rewards card, you get to start on the 17 a day before most of the idiots start ripping things apart.
here is a good thread on diving in.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123Evaporator
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...rsion.html
Charlie
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