83 300sd
83 300sd
But seeing as i couldnt even hold it up anymore , i threw it in .so i fell into the Benz via tragedy , ok
didn't look to bad the guy try ed a spray job , but got lazy and sloppy . as Ive pulled off the trim , you can see he just gave up on one side
.i have found the tin worm but , not that bad in the important areas.
i t ran well enough ,and didn't stop , literally once or twice .
leaks every where , good stuff my kinda car .
im just gonna list th STUFF IVE DONE SO FAR .
vacume lines (engine bay) sorted routed and replaced . no egr , changed around the restricts to my shifting likes .
brakes front to back , new lines , calipers , rotors,master etc , only thing not replace is the pedal and the booster.
Next time ill use copper
fuel tank removed , pressure washed and cleaned , new filters and lines all, doing purge today .. .clean clean clean .
Ok , So i Picked up a 1983 300 sd with 127k at the end of july . i traded my truck 84c20 6.2d , and my 82 kz750 . i should a kept the bike But seeing as i couldnt even hold it up anymore , i threw it in .
so i fell into the Benz via tragedy , ok
didn't look to bad the guy try ed a spray job , but got lazy and sloppy . as Ive pulled off the trim , you can see he just gave up on one side .
i have found the tin worm but , not that bad in the important areas.
i t ran well enough ,and didn't stop , literally once or twice .
leaks every where , good stuff my kinda car .
im just gonna list th STUFF IVE DONE SO FAR .
vacume lines (engine bay) sorted routed and replaced . no egr , changed around the restricts to my shifting likes .
brakes front to back , new lines , calipers , rotors,master etc , only thing not replace is the pedal and the booster.
Next time ill use copper
fuel tank removed , pressure washed and cleaned , new filters and lines all, doing purge today .. .clean clean clean .
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-07-2012, 12:36 PM #4Glad you've got a diesel, but damn man always keep the bike-you need backup wheels!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
. i was going to build a make shift car port off the back but i have a head to toe insulated suit ! i used to climb in -negative degrees . as far as the bike , i literally couldn't ride it anymore . i had a bad accident at work basically broke the left side of my body after a 70ft +/- fall . so looking at the bike was bumming me out . after i do some more PT maybe by summer ill be able to hold a bike with the bad side ? hopefully
anyway
all lines and filters replaced tank, pre, and main, purge done , runs much better . i also removed the ALDA . but i did this when the car was on jack stands so i cant say the difference to much without it . . but im not seeing the crazy smoke most people do when its removed . eh
oh , had a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a cherry bomb installed , from the down pipe back . not loud at all .
next up valve adjustment and new valve stem seals , and tidying up the body .
plans are to smooth the bottom of the doors where the lower trim panels were , and tucking the bumpers .
im going to collapse the crash shocks and cut the extra length out of the sides of the bumper covers , then plastic weld the caps back on . right now im running around with no rear cover
then flat paint
yeah im out doors . Cant run the engine with no fuel , tank or lines . i was going to build a make shift car port off the back but i have a head to toe insulated suit ! i used to climb in -negative degrees .
as far as the bike , i literally couldn't ride it anymore . i had a bad accident at work basically broke the left side of my body after a 70ft +/- fall . so looking at the bike was bumming me out . after i do some more PT maybe by summer ill be able to hold a bike with the bad side ? hopefully
anyway
all lines and filters replaced tank, pre, and main, purge done , runs much better . i also removed the ALDA . but i did this when the car was on jack stands so i cant say the difference to much without it . . but im not seeing the crazy smoke most people do when its removed . eh
oh , had a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a cherry bomb installed , from the down pipe back . not loud at all .
next up valve adjustment and new valve stem seals , and tidying up the body .
plans are to smooth the bottom of the doors where the lower trim panels were , and tucking the bumpers .
im going to collapse the crash shocks and cut the extra length out of the sides of the bumper covers , then plastic weld the caps back on . right now im running around with no rear cover
then flat paint
problem , so .
i gently gently gently , bent this tang closer to the wire so i had some over lap from where it broke before . removed the old solder and re-solder the wire . now i needed an assistant for this to hold the wire while i used both hand's . at this point the wire will be a little slack , so if you bent the tang gently , then nyou can use tiny plies flat , to squeeze the bend strait . this was uneventful for me , but i imagine yuo could f@#$ up all your efforts at this point . this got my wire nice and taught , like a geetar
. since i had already cleaned ev3ery thing with a tooth brush , i put it all back together no algae hidden to reinfect . it works flawlessly now with thaT said ,i there is a resistor on the insulating panel the top of the unit on the back side of the plug . if this would have been bad o would have had to pul it out and replace this i suppose . so if your cleaning your tank and thought about spending 200+$ 8-0 try to fix it first .
for got to mention , fixed the fuel level float , by coincidence. when i was cleaning the tank out and noticed all the back goo oozing out of the FLS . so i stared it into reveling its secret . on the bottom ,theirs a little screw/nut with a fine bolt through it . i used 2 picks to loosen it and turn it off , but i suppose cutting a little groove into the middle of a cheap #2 flat would do it the threaded rod runs through the entire unit . so , it comes of nd the metal cap revels the plastic cap u got this gently turned of sing padded channel locks then the tube simply slides off, be gentle i goofed and the unit fell right out so.. at this point it the actual metering unit is a little float that ride to super fine wires and then the is a fine copper wire that runs out side middle . at the bottom of this long rod's the insulating material that the copper connector for the wires ride . omy copper wire had broken off of this tang .
problem , so .
i gently gently gently , bent this tang closer to the wire so i had some over lap from where it broke before . removed the old solder and re-solder the wire . now i needed an assistant for this to hold the wire while i used both hand's . at this point the wire will be a little slack , so if you bent the tang gently , then nyou can use tiny plies flat , to squeeze the bend strait . this was uneventful for me , but i imagine yuo could f@#$ up all your efforts at this point . this got my wire nice and taught , like a geetar . since i had already cleaned ev3ery thing with a tooth brush , i put it all back together no algae hidden to reinfect . it works flawlessly now with thaT said ,i there is a resistor on the insulating panel the top of the unit on the back side of the plug . if this would have been bad o would have had to pul it out and replace this i suppose . so if your cleaning your tank and thought about spending 200+$ 8-0 try to fix it first .
prep prep prep, it would hav been cool to do this in metal , actually might have taken less time but this stuff haas done the trick. it like sticky paper mach-ea? but i was able to coat the back sides of alot of the panels . i noticed some stuff on Hirsch , phosphate etching primer , weld through stuff , says it neutralizes rust as well ill try that to when i finnally get a welder .
ps , need moderator for pass words so i can up load pics !
so both the "holes" in the rear tubs and trunk have been filled , and it loooks pretty good . i need to lay some of the fine cloth over , to make it look pretty/stronger . then building the trim panel blanks.
prep prep prep, it would hav been cool to do this in metal , actually might have taken less time but this stuff haas done the trick. it like sticky paper mach-ea? but i was able to coat the back sides of alot of the panels . i noticed some stuff on Hirsch , phosphate etching primer , weld through stuff , says it neutralizes rust as well ill try that to when i finnally get a welder .
ps , need moderator for pass words so i can up load pics !
valve job done , now for a raod trip. after the adjustment prretty big improvement . but it almost feels down on power"? hen i looked at the tach , and speed . doing better than before , only now im not dumping hard to get into boost , itjust does it all with out then when you get into iboost it takes off. yay . i hink i might pre-load my Aldo tab when i cap it . hmmm
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-16-2012, 09:05 AM #10If you don't want to pop the capsule on the alda or remove it, putting a shim between the alda and IP is a good way to help
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-20-2012, 02:14 AM #11Get er Done!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
car is nnow tucked up at my dads place in a heated garage . now will be the time to do the manual swap , so i bought a motor/tranny pedals etc , out of a 300td. local grease shop hjad it on CL. any ways it ran grees was told it drove in , it spins . and the guy who pulled it said it nseems like a brand new slave cly , and some indications that its been serviced ? in any event , it from a wagon so it has the hydralic pump on the cyl head , but the motor is definitley from a auto . so........ it not the correct manual linkages and the pump has the shift valve on it . but all the sutff is there , ill most likley use my old motor and pirate all the stuff off this motor as far as fueling .
ill have to fab a crossmember , as well as switching over to u-joints. i hope i can get a one piece shaft made . itll be pretty long though .
i had the idea of using the hydro pump in the head for a secondary fuel pump to boost the feed pressure to the IP would this work/help/ruin the pump? or is there a blanking plate available ? i dont know if it acts like an idle pully for the timing chain gear in the haed ?
thats whats next , but ill be tearing this motor down and doing all the porting work on the manifolds etc so its all ready to rock when i get down to do the swap in a few months .
any and all input on this swqap will be greatly apreciated , as well as any info on the cyl head pros cons aas well as that hydro pump idea , ill be looking into all that stuff as well .
up date , road trip eventful . blew tranny car is nnow tucked up at my dads place in a heated garage .
now will be the time to do the manual swap , so i bought a motor/tranny pedals etc , out of a 300td. local grease shop hjad it on CL. any ways it ran grees was told it drove in , it spins . and the guy who pulled it said it nseems like a brand new slave cly , and some indications that its been serviced ? in any event , it from a wagon so it has the hydralic pump on the cyl head , but the motor is definitley from a auto . so........ it not the correct manual linkages and the pump has the shift valve on it . but all the sutff is there , ill most likley use my old motor and pirate all the stuff off this motor as far as fueling .
ill have to fab a crossmember , as well as switching over to u-joints. i hope i can get a one piece shaft made . itll be pretty long though .
i had the idea of using the hydro pump in the head for a secondary fuel pump to boost the feed pressure to the IP would this work/help/ruin the pump? or is there a blanking plate available ? i dont know if it acts like an idle pully for the timing chain gear in the haed ?
thats whats next , but ill be tearing this motor down and doing all the porting work on the manifolds etc so its all ready to rock when i get down to do the swap in a few months .
any and all input on this swqap will be greatly apreciated , as well as any info on the cyl head pros cons aas well as that hydro pump idea , ill be looking into all that stuff as well .
the Guys i bought it off of weere super cool and also run a veggie conversion shop in the boston area .
so not only did a couple guys drop it of but i was able to go hang out in the yard and pull every bit off . so i have the pedals brake booster master and resivoir as well as the linkage etc .
i was also able to grab the resivior for the hydro pump on the head for the rear suspension . ( any one know what the psi on these pumps is ? / i was able to find a lttle info , on Gwagens and i think om 617 , not too specific but one is 8bar? the other 5?
anyways its was filthy , ive pulled all xternal stuff but the pump/inj/lines. nor have i cracked the trans of yet .
i have had the time to strip down the turbo COMPLEATLY, and clean , as well as alittle grinding in some areas.
ill be taking photos along the way.
so , ive had the time to aquire a used 617 , out of an 83 300td, that was converted to a manual .
the Guys i bought it off of weere super cool and also run a veggie conversion shop in the boston area .
so not only did a couple guys drop it of but i was able to go hang out in the yard and pull every bit off . so i have the pedals brake booster master and resivoir as well as the linkage etc .
i was also able to grab the resivior for the hydro pump on the head for the rear suspension . ( any one know what the psi on these pumps is ? / i was able to find a lttle info , on Gwagens and i think om 617 , not too specific but one is 8bar? the other 5?
anyways its was filthy , ive pulled all xternal stuff but the pump/inj/lines. nor have i cracked the trans of yet .
i have had the time to strip down the turbo COMPLEATLY, and clean , as well as alittle grinding in some areas.
ill be taking photos along the way.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-04-2013, 09:53 PM #19I feel ya, hang in there. Get it running and enjoy it for a while
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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