transmission fluid question
transmission fluid question
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The pink is of course brand new.....I'm guessing the yellow/brown is not a good sign and I should probably bring the transmission back to the junk yard for store credit and try my luck with another?
So I checked the fluid that is/was still in my transmission I pulled for my project and this is what I've got
The pink is of course brand new.....I'm guessing the yellow/brown is not a good sign and I should probably bring the transmission back to the junk yard for store credit and try my luck with another?
Some results says coolant leaking into trans cooler maybe turn the fluid yellow. Are there any more pictures? Sediment in the pan like metal flake or black sludge?
I don't think just because you find nasty fluid means that the mechanical order of the trans is broken.
How does that fluid feel and smell?
edit: ...that's what he said
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Tried to google search that color stuff. Dark red and brown I know to be age, wear, and clutch material.
Some results says coolant leaking into trans cooler maybe turn the fluid yellow. Are there any more pictures? Sediment in the pan like metal flake or black sludge?
I don't think just because you find nasty fluid means that the mechanical order of the trans is broken.
How does that fluid feel and smell?
edit: ...that's what he said
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I'm probably over reacting. The only thing that worried me was that the car the transmission was in had no body damage and the interior was nice. So it could have had engine issues or transmission issues.. I guess we shall see in the near future once I save up for the control unit.
coolant mixed with the fluid would make it milky. I posted about it on another forum and one of the posters mentioned that the Germans do not dye their OEM fluid red. The fluid smelled like transmission and not burnt like a fire and the pan didn't have any chunks in the pan.
I'm probably over reacting. The only thing that worried me was that the car the transmission was in had no body damage and the interior was nice. So it could have had engine issues or transmission issues.. I guess we shall see in the near future once I save up for the control unit.
The reason there is no stick is because Merc originally designated the .6 box as 'sealed for life'. When it became apparent that this was unworkable they changed the lube regime to an every 40000ml change. If your donor was later than approx 1999 you will find there is also no drainplug in the TC for this same reason.
This requires the workshop dipstick which is part number A140 509 15 21 (if you can persuade a parts dept to sell you one). It's usually verbotten (at least in Europe) to buy w/shop tools if you're not 'trade'. Do not try and make your own from a length of curtain rod as advocated on some forums because the length is critical dependant on the little moulded plastic diamond which butts against a restriction in the base of the tube. Without this the stick bottoms out and you will get a false reading. Believe this...I have measured the OE stick penetration with the sump off. In the UK a replica stick is now made by Sealey or maybe Laser. Don't know if they are available stateside or not. This is the bottom of an OE stick.
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I run a 722.6 in a 211 wagon. The gearbox takes Merc synthetic fluid ATF134 part number A001 989 68 03 13 per litre. It is a crimson colour slightly darker than the usual Dexton 111 ATF. Non OEM synthetic fluid can be got which is not red so it could be that which you have. As above you need to drop the pan and see if there are any tiny brass flakes in the bottom. Not fatal though as mine has had that for all my 7yrs and 80000mls ownership and it's still going strong.
The reason there is no stick is because Merc originally designated the .6 box as 'sealed for life'. When it became apparent that this was unworkable they changed the lube regime to an every 40000ml change. If your donor was later than approx 1999 you will find there is also no drainplug in the TC for this same reason.
This requires the workshop dipstick which is part number A140 509 15 21 (if you can persuade a parts dept to sell you one). It's usually verbotten (at least in Europe) to buy w/shop tools if you're not 'trade'. Do not try and make your own from a length of curtain rod as advocated on some forums because the length is critical dependant on the little moulded plastic diamond which butts against a restriction in the base of the tube. Without this the stick bottoms out and you will get a false reading. Believe this...I have measured the OE stick penetration with the sump off. In the UK a replica stick is now made by Sealey or maybe Laser. Don't know if they are available stateside or not. This is the bottom of an OE stick.
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I did not find any brass flakes in the pan, just the usual layer of clutch material. I want to say the oem fluid from Fuchs is not red but amber like motor oil.
I guess I will find out when I install it. Who knows, I might have to replace the conductor plate and that could be why the car wound up in the junkyard
I can easily get the dip stick tool and a new cap so thats a relief.There are a few of the tools on ebay for around $20, but is the length of the cool consistent for the 722.6? Plus the torque converter does have a drain
I did not find any brass flakes in the pan, just the usual layer of clutch material. I want to say the oem fluid from Fuchs is not red but amber like motor oil.
I guess I will find out when I install it. Who knows, I might have to replace the conductor plate and that could be why the car wound up in the junkyard
raysorenson
02-19-2013, 11:30 AM #7Probably fine if it doesn't smell burnt. Even red-dyed ATF can end up looking like that on a healthy trans. Some trans' seem to do a worse job of keeping the ATF pretty looking than others.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-19-2013, 02:10 PM #8At least its not dark brown/black lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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