Getting rid of the old air cleaner. Any tips, tricks, or warnings?
Getting rid of the old air cleaner. Any tips, tricks, or warnings?
So I'm thinking I'll pull it all off and go get a cheap K&N or a knockoff cone filter to elbow into the turbo. Any idea what size or cfm capacities I'm looking for? But here's the issue. I just realized that there's that breather tube going from the head to the air cleaner, and it looks like that tube just goes out a spout in the middle of the airway into the turbo. What should I do about that? I know that it serves as a sort of oil return in some diesels but I don't see any other tubes. There is a little blow-by also. Not bad as of yet.
Kinda need to replace the filter real soon anyway so gotta find out what I'm getting. Thanks!
Matt.
'85 300SD Turbo
'92 Subaru SVX
'83 Pontiac Firebird S/E
'88 Pontiac Firebird
dieselsmoke300d
02-22-2013, 05:58 PM #1The old cleaner was working fine until I found out the noisy way that it broke a while back (mounting brackets) and is now rattling like a crazed caffeinated monkey and banging the hood etc and its annoying as hell. That's what happens when idiots glue it with wood glue or whatever the hell it is.
So I'm thinking I'll pull it all off and go get a cheap K&N or a knockoff cone filter to elbow into the turbo. Any idea what size or cfm capacities I'm looking for? But here's the issue. I just realized that there's that breather tube going from the head to the air cleaner, and it looks like that tube just goes out a spout in the middle of the airway into the turbo. What should I do about that? I know that it serves as a sort of oil return in some diesels but I don't see any other tubes. There is a little blow-by also. Not bad as of yet.
Kinda need to replace the filter real soon anyway so gotta find out what I'm getting. Thanks!
Matt.
'85 300SD Turbo
'92 Subaru SVX
'83 Pontiac Firebird S/E
'88 Pontiac Firebird
There is a whole thread on it.
I like the 8038 it's a little smaller than the 8037, that one takes up all the room there is
There's a thread on it
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-1306.html
Maybe other threads too idk
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
People do the kn/spectre cone stuff. Some of us have made a fram 8038 or 8037 fit with a section of pvc or abs tube. like a 90 elbow and a bit of rubber/silicone boot is all it needs.
There is a whole thread on it.
I like the 8038 it's a little smaller than the 8037, that one takes up all the room there is
There's a thread on it
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-1306.html
Maybe other threads too idk
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
02-22-2013, 06:26 PM #3They sell those 3 rubber mounts under the air filter assembly for really cheep $5-$10! I would replace those and if you want a free flow air filter get a K&N for the stock housing I did but just so I can clean and reuse it! But the stock paper filter flows more than enough air for that engine! You wont really gain any performance with a cone or K&N over stock it might make the turbo a little nosier which sounds cool.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Matt.
'85 300SD Turbo
'92 Subaru SVX
'83 Pontiac Firebird S/E
'88 Pontiac Firebird
dieselsmoke300d
02-22-2013, 06:38 PM #4Well I want to have room to gain some serious hp eventually, but I don't want to stick with something average that might get in the way of power later. I was thinking Spectre. Idk I think its easier to deal with. But what's weird is how the mounting brackets for the air box broke so easy. I could just silver solder or weld it or something but I figure why not go get something that won't take up as much space. Also the sound of the turbo is very much welcome. lol but I just wanted to make sure that those tubes are but I just wanted to make sure there weren't any tubes I was forgetting about like the breather tube. Any ideas as to what I should do about that?
Matt.
'85 300SD Turbo
'92 Subaru SVX
'83 Pontiac Firebird S/E
'88 Pontiac Firebird
I dont miss that stock setup one bit. But some people say it is just fine and a great filter.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
that crank case vent thing? PCV or whatever. Run draft tube down to the road or make up a custom oil/air separator and send the air part back in the intake.
I dont miss that stock setup one bit. But some people say it is just fine and a great filter.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
although , theres plenty of alloy breather cans out the that are Pretty with 1-3 threaded inlets etc.
i used a couple elbos and booties , i picked up at Auto zone . 3" -21/2 reducer . i coated it all with aluminum tape cause i diddnt like the des of rubber next to the manifold . i will get some nice silicone down the road. Ted the breather lines from crank and head ran them to a catch can i made with a big wegmans peanut tin . put a VC breather filter on it and used some clear fuel tube on the side for a level site. it all nestled in to the pas front corner of my sd nicely.
although , theres plenty of alloy breather cans out the that are Pretty with 1-3 threaded inlets etc.
![[Image: 105039d1345851258-built-catch-can-catch4.jpg]](http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/105039d1345851258-built-catch-can-catch4.jpg)
I built a catch can to condense the oil vapors and return them to the sump.
Here's a link to the build thread, as well as a pretty interesting discussion on different catch can and oil separator strategies and technologies.
Built a Catch Can - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
I needed to do a custom air cleaner and oil separator solution because I don't have any room for a stock MB air cleaner in my swap project (OM617 -> 107).
Here's the final configuration with the paper element air cleaner setup.
![[Image: 497986d1361563670-solution-engine-oil-ai...ngine4.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/497986d1361563670-solution-engine-oil-air-filter-engine4.jpg)
As you can see, not a lot of room to play with. But I still get the effect of a cold air intake because the filter housing is 90% outside the arc of the fan shroud.
Here's my solution to the problem.
I built a catch can to condense the oil vapors and return them to the sump.
Here's a link to the build thread, as well as a pretty interesting discussion on different catch can and oil separator strategies and technologies.
Built a Catch Can - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
I needed to do a custom air cleaner and oil separator solution because I don't have any room for a stock MB air cleaner in my swap project (OM617 -> 107).
Here's the final configuration with the paper element air cleaner setup.
As you can see, not a lot of room to play with. But I still get the effect of a cold air intake because the filter housing is 90% outside the arc of the fan shroud.
Turbo sits way high, are you using the OM617a California exhaust manifold?
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
02-23-2013, 11:16 PM #9That air intake looks totally boss, like the nacelle of a jet engine, what's it from?
Turbo sits way high, are you using the OM617a California exhaust manifold?
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
(02-23-2013, 11:16 PM)JustPassinThru That air intake looks totally boss, like the nacelle of a jet engine, what's it from?
Turbo sits way high, are you using the OM617a California exhaust manifold?
The engine is a Cali version so the turbo sits quite a bit higher than on the Federal. I had no choice to go with a different filter arrangement because there is just no room for the stock one.
The air filter I'm using is from a Ford Escort as is the filter housing. The backing plate is turned on a lathe from 1/4 aluminum, and the connector is from a Ford Taurus which was "welded" to the backing plate with HF low temp aluminum welding rod.
![[Image: 101824d1335667337-380sl-diesel-conversio...80-112.jpg]](http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/101824d1335667337-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-380-112.jpg)
![[Image: 101826d1335668128-380sl-diesel-conversio...80-115.jpg]](http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/101826d1335668128-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-380-115.jpg)
More info can be found at
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2928...st267.html
and
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2956...st279.html
(02-23-2013, 11:16 PM)JustPassinThru That air intake looks totally boss, like the nacelle of a jet engine, what's it from?
Turbo sits way high, are you using the OM617a California exhaust manifold?
The engine is a Cali version so the turbo sits quite a bit higher than on the Federal. I had no choice to go with a different filter arrangement because there is just no room for the stock one.
The air filter I'm using is from a Ford Escort as is the filter housing. The backing plate is turned on a lathe from 1/4 aluminum, and the connector is from a Ford Taurus which was "welded" to the backing plate with HF low temp aluminum welding rod.
More info can be found at
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2928...st267.html
and
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2956...st279.html
i will read the other thread , but if its quick how did you recirculate back to the crank case ? via the intake ?
Very coool work .
Very cool work , that looks like the housing on alot of ford trucks as well . on the portion you trimmed was there a snorkel that went to a sound suppression box?
i will read the other thread , but if its quick how did you recirculate back to the crank case ? via the intake ?
Very coool work .
(02-24-2013, 12:45 PM)lpumb3 Very cool work , that looks like the housing on alot of ford trucks as well . on the portion you trimmed was there a snorkel that went to a sound suppression box?Here is what the complete donor unit looks like.
i will read the other thread , but if its quick how did you recirculate back to the crank case ? via the intake ?
Very coool work .
![[Image: aircleaner8.jpg]](http://www.sldiesel.com/images/stories/aircleaner8.jpg)
The air flow is from right to left with air being pulled from the fender well through a rubber grommet, if memory serves. I cut the snorkel off as well as the mounting tabs and used the stock clamp to attach to my backing plate.
Regarding the oil separator, the condensed oil is returned to the sump. The clean air returns to the intake. Although the engine is a Cali '85 OM617.952 that has the ribbed oil pan without a drain port, the upper oil pan I'm using is the smooth type off an earlier engine, so it is equipped with the drain port. I did this so I didn't have to modify the subframe on the SL. )
(02-24-2013, 12:45 PM)lpumb3 Very cool work , that looks like the housing on alot of ford trucks as well . on the portion you trimmed was there a snorkel that went to a sound suppression box?Here is what the complete donor unit looks like.
i will read the other thread , but if its quick how did you recirculate back to the crank case ? via the intake ?
Very coool work .
The air flow is from right to left with air being pulled from the fender well through a rubber grommet, if memory serves. I cut the snorkel off as well as the mounting tabs and used the stock clamp to attach to my backing plate.
Regarding the oil separator, the condensed oil is returned to the sump. The clean air returns to the intake. Although the engine is a Cali '85 OM617.952 that has the ribbed oil pan without a drain port, the upper oil pan I'm using is the smooth type off an earlier engine, so it is equipped with the drain port. I did this so I didn't have to modify the subframe on the SL. )
(03-01-2013, 10:32 AM)lpumb3 thanks , i see , my drain is tied into my vapors to my catch . its ghetto fab . but ive wanted to plum it back , so i wont smell it . how clean it your compressor wheel after a couple oil changes ?
The compressor wheel stays clean. I do get a few drops that collect on the adapter plate that I just wipe off from time to time.
As a result of a thread going over on BW I've determined that my air filter is probably too small. It's good for 250cfm. The stock Cali filter is good for 450cfm. The good news is that there is a filter with the exact same base and height dimensions that will work with my custom backing plate, but not with the Escort housing. I'm off to the junk yard this weekend to source one off a Ranger or Mazda P/U. Mine obviously works just fine, but a bigger one will be a lot better.
![[Image: 499333d1362089603-more-attractive-air-fi...ilter3.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/499333d1362089603-more-attractive-air-filter-solutions-filter3.jpg)
(03-01-2013, 10:32 AM)lpumb3 thanks , i see , my drain is tied into my vapors to my catch . its ghetto fab . but ive wanted to plum it back , so i wont smell it . how clean it your compressor wheel after a couple oil changes ?
The compressor wheel stays clean. I do get a few drops that collect on the adapter plate that I just wipe off from time to time.
As a result of a thread going over on BW I've determined that my air filter is probably too small. It's good for 250cfm. The stock Cali filter is good for 450cfm. The good news is that there is a filter with the exact same base and height dimensions that will work with my custom backing plate, but not with the Escort housing. I'm off to the junk yard this weekend to source one off a Ranger or Mazda P/U. Mine obviously works just fine, but a bigger one will be a lot better.
![[Image: 499571d1362185709-more-attractive-air-fi...ilter4.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/499571d1362185709-more-attractive-air-filter-solutions-filter4.jpg)
It's not a huge noticeable difference, but I feel a lot better about the flow rating.
Also picked up one of these off a truck... now just have to figure out where to mount it.
![[Image: 499572d1362185709-more-attractive-air-fi...former.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/499572d1362185709-more-attractive-air-filter-solutions-informer.jpg)
I got out to the junk yard today and picked up a new air cleaner housing to fit the larger CFM air filter.
It's not a huge noticeable difference, but I feel a lot better about the flow rating.
Also picked up one of these off a truck... now just have to figure out where to mount it.
(03-01-2013, 11:40 AM)mach4If i remember correctly , the triton series had big housings and the cold air tubes were about 3 inches or so(03-01-2013, 10:32 AM)lpumb3 thanks , i see , my drain is tied into my vapors to my catch . its ghetto fab . but ive wanted to plum it back , so i wont smell it . how clean it your compressor wheel after a couple oil changes ?
The compressor wheel stays clean. I do get a few drops that collect on the adapter plate that I just wipe off from time to time.
As a result of a thread going over on BW I've determined that my air filter is probably too small. It's good for 250cfm. The stock Cali filter is good for 450cfm. The good news is that there is a filter with the exact same base and height dimensions that will work with my custom backing plate, but not with the Escort housing. I'm off to the junk yard this weekend to source one off a Ranger or Mazda P/U. Mine obviously works just fine, but a bigger one will be a lot better.
(03-01-2013, 11:40 AM)mach4If i remember correctly , the triton series had big housings and the cold air tubes were about 3 inches or so(03-01-2013, 10:32 AM)lpumb3 thanks , i see , my drain is tied into my vapors to my catch . its ghetto fab . but ive wanted to plum it back , so i wont smell it . how clean it your compressor wheel after a couple oil changes ?
The compressor wheel stays clean. I do get a few drops that collect on the adapter plate that I just wipe off from time to time.
As a result of a thread going over on BW I've determined that my air filter is probably too small. It's good for 250cfm. The stock Cali filter is good for 450cfm. The good news is that there is a filter with the exact same base and height dimensions that will work with my custom backing plate, but not with the Escort housing. I'm off to the junk yard this weekend to source one off a Ranger or Mazda P/U. Mine obviously works just fine, but a bigger one will be a lot better.
Quote: If i remember correctly , the triton series had big housings and the cold air tubes were about 3 inches or so
That's correct, however in my case I've got hood clearance issues and turbo-inlet-to-radiator-shroud constraints that prevent going larger.
(03-02-2013, 11:20 AM)mach4Quote: If i remember correctly , the triton series had big housings and the cold air tubes were about 3 inches or so
That's correct, however in my case I've got hood clearance issues and turbo-inlet-to-radiator-shroud constraints that prevent going larger.
ok , i have an sd theres basically a shelf on either side for me to use . i would be able to set the entire unit in there and poke it through to the fender, after figuring out the turbo inlet pipe bend .
i forget the smaller chassis was so tight . very good work getting that setup so clean , especially the catch can
check out some of the kn filters for rangers . i believe they will have a mesh top insted of the torpedo tip. more air , maybe more turbulent but more none the less.
(03-02-2013, 11:20 AM)mach4Quote: If i remember correctly , the triton series had big housings and the cold air tubes were about 3 inches or so
That's correct, however in my case I've got hood clearance issues and turbo-inlet-to-radiator-shroud constraints that prevent going larger.
ok , i have an sd theres basically a shelf on either side for me to use . i would be able to set the entire unit in there and poke it through to the fender, after figuring out the turbo inlet pipe bend .
i forget the smaller chassis was so tight . very good work getting that setup so clean , especially the catch can
check out some of the kn filters for rangers . i believe they will have a mesh top insted of the torpedo tip. more air , maybe more turbulent but more none the less.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-05-2013, 03:04 PM #19Plumb the filter minder between the filter and the turbo. When the filter plugs, it will pull a vacuum on the filter minder and let you know it's time for a element. Another OCD option would be on install a vacuum gauge between the filter and the turbo, so you can monitor it live in the car
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-05-2013, 03:04 PM)Simpler=Better Another OCD option would be on install a vacuum gauge between the filter and the turbo, so you can monitor it live in the car
The problem with this approach is that the filter monitors are set to trip at 25 inches of water. A vacuum gauge reads in inches of mercury. 25 inches of water is equivalent to 1.8 inches of mercury so needle deflection would be very little. If you could find a vacuum gauge calibrated in inches of water with a sweep of say 0-30 it would be perfect, otherwise not so much.
(03-05-2013, 03:04 PM)Simpler=Better Another OCD option would be on install a vacuum gauge between the filter and the turbo, so you can monitor it live in the car
The problem with this approach is that the filter monitors are set to trip at 25 inches of water. A vacuum gauge reads in inches of mercury. 25 inches of water is equivalent to 1.8 inches of mercury so needle deflection would be very little. If you could find a vacuum gauge calibrated in inches of water with a sweep of say 0-30 it would be perfect, otherwise not so much.
At that price, I think I would just install the filter moniter...
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ASHCROF...auge-2C639
At that price, I think I would just install the filter moniter...
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(03-06-2013, 01:06 PM)MFSuper90 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ASHCROF...auge-2C639Or just change the filter when it looks dirty. Believe it or not, the filter on the right checked just fine with the filter monitor, and it's undersized by almost half for the engine.
At that price, I think I would just install the filter moniter...
![[Image: 499723d1362261498t-more-attractive-air-f...ilter5.jpg]](http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/499723d1362261498t-more-attractive-air-filter-solutions-filter5.jpg)
(03-06-2013, 01:06 PM)MFSuper90 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ASHCROF...auge-2C639Or just change the filter when it looks dirty. Believe it or not, the filter on the right checked just fine with the filter monitor, and it's undersized by almost half for the engine.
At that price, I think I would just install the filter moniter...
(03-06-2013, 03:42 PM)mach4(03-06-2013, 01:06 PM)MFSuper90 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ASHCROF...auge-2C639Or just change the filter when it looks dirty. Believe it or not, the filter on the right checked just fine with the filter monitor, and it's undersized by almost half for the engine.
At that price, I think I would just install the filter moniter...
I wouldnt bother with the minder . Your set up is visual you can monitor by site. Like mach 4s pic they wont trip that thing and be filthy. On the trucks it was to do visual maint checks , instead of having to tinker around . Mr goodwrench :-).
(03-06-2013, 03:42 PM)mach4(03-06-2013, 01:06 PM)MFSuper90 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ASHCROF...auge-2C639Or just change the filter when it looks dirty. Believe it or not, the filter on the right checked just fine with the filter monitor, and it's undersized by almost half for the engine.
At that price, I think I would just install the filter moniter...
I wouldnt bother with the minder . Your set up is visual you can monitor by site. Like mach 4s pic they wont trip that thing and be filthy. On the trucks it was to do visual maint checks , instead of having to tinker around . Mr goodwrench :-).
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...e-how.html
here's my solution for getting rid of the "trash can" air filter with a parts list and step by step construction:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...e-how.html
CA8037
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46441
CA8038
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46440
These filters are made the HD and standard Chevy/GMC pickups, so I think this spec is pretty accurate.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
04-05-2013, 12:58 AM #25I was looking at the specs of the WIX equivalent of the CA8037 and CA8038 and puts the flow at 250 CFM's. Much lower than the stock 300d/sd 450 CFM's.
CA8037
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46441
CA8038
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46440
These filters are made the HD and standard Chevy/GMC pickups, so I think this spec is pretty accurate.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
Battery is now approximately where the back seat used to be.
We went kind of crazy with our set up and put the air filter where the battery used to be. Great location... lots of air pressure there. Also added an intercooler which really helped reduce EGTs.
Battery is now approximately where the back seat used to be.
(04-05-2013, 09:01 AM)Torkey We went kind of crazy with our set up and put the air filter where the battery used to be. Great location... lots of air pressure there. Also added an intercooler which really helped reduce EGTs.Very nice...and clean too! Like it. What are you doing with your oil vapor from the valve cover? It heads off toward the drivers side but out of the picture.
Battery is now approximately where the back seat used to be.
(04-05-2013, 09:01 AM)Torkey We went kind of crazy with our set up and put the air filter where the battery used to be. Great location... lots of air pressure there. Also added an intercooler which really helped reduce EGTs.Very nice...and clean too! Like it. What are you doing with your oil vapor from the valve cover? It heads off toward the drivers side but out of the picture.
Battery is now approximately where the back seat used to be.
How did you fit an intercooler? Cut the bumper?
I have always been a fan of the gay&N Apollo setup using the factory ram intake. Can't find the thread it was on!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Nice Torkey! Very clean, neat looking setup.
How did you fit an intercooler? Cut the bumper?
I have always been a fan of the gay&N Apollo setup using the factory ram intake. Can't find the thread it was on!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(04-05-2013, 12:58 AM)DeliveryValve I was looking at the specs of the WIX equivalent of the CA8037 and CA8038 and puts the flow at 250 CFM's. Much lower than the stock 300d/sd 450 CFM's.
CA8037
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46441
CA8038
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46440
These filters are made the HD and standard Chevy/GMC pickups, so I think this spec is pretty accurate.
.
i called the fram info line and i was told that the ca8038 is rated at 425cfm. obviously it has a much much larger surface area than the stock filter. :eshrug:
(04-05-2013, 12:58 AM)DeliveryValve I was looking at the specs of the WIX equivalent of the CA8037 and CA8038 and puts the flow at 250 CFM's. Much lower than the stock 300d/sd 450 CFM's.
CA8037
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46441
CA8038
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDet...Part=46440
These filters are made the HD and standard Chevy/GMC pickups, so I think this spec is pretty accurate.
.
i called the fram info line and i was told that the ca8038 is rated at 425cfm. obviously it has a much much larger surface area than the stock filter. :eshrug:
The crankcase breather goes to an oil catch can that we made out of stuffing an aluminum vodka bottle with steel wool. Much less crankcase pressure than using the stock separator.
The intercooler is where the headlight used to be. Doesn't work too well for a street car. You can see it in the picture below
The crankcase breather goes to an oil catch can that we made out of stuffing an aluminum vodka bottle with steel wool. Much less crankcase pressure than using the stock separator.
Keep on keepin on!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Freakin love that car. And love your racing team for being different and choosing a Benz.
Keep on keepin on!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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