first suspension upgrade to 240D....
first suspension upgrade to 240D....
hi folks, i had the 240D's steering and alignment checked out after the engine swap was done, so my car steers well and goes in a straight line. i am reasonably happy with the stock height after the 617 went in, might cut 1/2 spring later on, but for now i think it's fine.
however when i take corners quickly the sway is such that i'm afraid i'm going to roll the car over. i don't even think i've three-wheeled it yet but it sure feels that way. what do you all think i should do to minimize this issue - drive slower (hah), front antisway bar, performance shocks in front or what?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Check the linkage on the front swaybar. I used to take my 300D around corners like a madman and it stayed pretty grounded to the ground
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
You can upgrade to a wagon front sway bar it's a bit beefier but a P.I.T.A to install. or put Bilstine HD shocks on it I had them on my 240d and it handled lake a beast
I have Bilstien HD shocks right now and they are pretty sweet, I'm also gonna upgrade the front swaybar as soon as I find some free time
Easiest thing to do is to get rid of the softer 240d front springs and replace them with stiffer 300d springs. Then do the wagon sway bar swap.
(03-07-2013, 12:02 AM)DeliveryValve Easiest thing to do is to get rid of the softer 240d front springs and replace them with stiffer 300d springs. Then do the wagon sway bar swap.
(03-07-2013, 12:02 AM)DeliveryValve Easiest thing to do is to get rid of the softer 240d front springs and replace them with stiffer 300d springs. Then do the wagon sway bar swap.
thanks folks. this sounds like a good plan. if i'm bothering to get the 300D springs then i'll get all four and trim them for a slightly lower ride. if i'm bothering to get at the swaybar bushings then i should swap in the wagon bar at the same time. it sounds like most of the work is in accessing the bar.
as requested... my stance. 617.952 + slopeback manual on stock 240D springs. (the street's not flat.) i'm more interested in lowering my center of gravity than i am in lowriding per se, but a touch more might be justified.
There are two optional 240d springs. Pn# 123 321 39 04 - 14.7mm wire diameter, spring travel 25 and length 460, and pn#123 321 27 04 - 15 diameter and spring travel 23.3 and length 463. The 300d spring pn#123 321 41 04- 15.8 diameter and spring travel 18.4 and length 450.
Judging for your picture and going with the firmer of the 240d spring (123 321 27 04) which I'm guessing the 300d 123 321 41 04 spring is about 23% firmer, I would assume cutting at least a coil would give you the same ride height or a bit higher with a 1 burl pad.
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hmmm... good info.
is the whole of spring travel really just 20ish mm?
do the desired nub/burl pads get bought anew with a spring swap or are they a junkyard item?
Love the orange.
(03-09-2013, 02:42 AM)bricktron ....
is the whole of spring travel really just 20ish mm?
do the desired nub/burl pads get bought anew with a spring swap or are they a junkyard item?
(03-09-2013, 02:43 AM)lgreeley83 Love the orange.
(03-09-2013, 02:42 AM)bricktron ....
is the whole of spring travel really just 20ish mm?
do the desired nub/burl pads get bought anew with a spring swap or are they a junkyard item?
(03-09-2013, 02:43 AM)lgreeley83 Love the orange.
cool. anyone know the conversion factor, how many burls = the height of 1 spring coil?
PS the color is englischrot 504... the whole reason i bought this junker!
The change in ride height after cutting a coil has many variables. Odds are it would take more burls than you can get to make up for a missing coil. I recommend against cutting an entire coil off at once.
(03-10-2013, 12:03 AM)bricktron cool. anyone know the conversion factor, how many burls = the height of 1 spring coil?It's all different with the deflection rate. Here are the specs.
(03-10-2013, 07:52 AM)raysorenson The change in ride height after cutting a coil has many variables. Odds are it would take more burls than you can get to make up for a missing coil. I recommend against cutting an entire coil off at once.
(03-10-2013, 12:03 AM)bricktron cool. anyone know the conversion factor, how many burls = the height of 1 spring coil?It's all different with the deflection rate. Here are the specs.
(03-10-2013, 07:52 AM)raysorenson The change in ride height after cutting a coil has many variables. Odds are it would take more burls than you can get to make up for a missing coil. I recommend against cutting an entire coil off at once.
They still sell the side trim new
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
pennies & JB weld form the inside will fill in the trim holes nicely...
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I tried that but they started falling out after I got the car painted it sucked. If I do it again I'm welding them closed
i have the beltline trim stashed away, got to get a little bodywork done before it goes back on....
did a little reading on the antisway bar.... FWIW WP sez the stiffness of a bar is proportional to the fourth exponent of its radius and if the two bars are 24 and 25mm in diameter then the wagon bar gives you a ((25/2)^4)/((24/2)^4) = 1.177 or an 18% increase in stiffness. any comment on what this means from those who have driven with both?