just another om617 in a yj
just another om617 in a yj
So heres what's going on:
My wife's 93 YJ, which is now mostly an offroad toy, but also the spare car if one of our others die, has been a great rig so far. It has the 4.0 HO, ax-15, np231, dana 44 front w/ detroit, GM 14 bolt rear w/ govlock, Toyo MT 38x14.5x16s.
![[Image: 552077_4494580404290_285896238_n_zps825c5f62.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/552077_4494580404290_285896238_n_zps825c5f62.jpg)
It's been great but, sadly the head gasket popped on us recently and I figured it was time for a change. I put a turbo diesel in my samurai and i love it so i figured i would us the head gasket as an excuse to put one in her jeep as well.
I also decided this was a good time to switch things up in the drivetrain. I picked this up for $100
![[Image: IMG_0916_zps4340e815.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/IMG_0916_zps4340e815.jpg)
mostly for this:
![[Image: IMG_0927_zps1fd09eb2.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/IMG_0927_zps1fd09eb2.jpg)
I'll be swapping the AX-15 input shaft into the Toyota r150 and then putting a single toyota transfercase with trail creeper 4.7 gears in it. I thought about dual cases, but her rear driveline is already short and i think that 4.7's should be fine for her.
I picked up this very well maintained 1980 300SD for $500 and drove it home
![[Image: IMG_0697_zps86dbb692.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0697_zps86dbb692.jpg)
First things first
![[Image: IMG_0878_zpsc4ddc688.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0878_zpsc4ddc688.jpg)
then on to more important things
![[Image: IMG_0886_zps8005e837.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0886_zps8005e837.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0885_zps30f63891.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0885_zps30f63891.jpg)
The 300SD's current state
![[Image: IMG_0932_zps9e359896.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0932_zps9e359896.jpg)
next is to make a little bit more room
![[Image: IMG_0937_zpsea3272c2.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0937_zpsea3272c2.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0936_zps9d65351e.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0936_zps9d65351e.jpg)
called in a buddy for some help
![[Image: IMG_0941_zps9f869b06.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0941_zps9f869b06.jpg)
tore off the intake and exhaust manifolds, the turbo and the valve cover to do some cleanup and adjustments.
![[Image: IMG_0942_zps57b5891f.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0942_zps57b5891f.jpg)
about as clean as its going to get
![[Image: IMG_0943_zps52793b02.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0943_zps52793b02.jpg)
painted it with some flat black header paint, looks much better than rust colored
![[Image: IMG_0944_zps44c2b8db.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0944_zps44c2b8db.jpg)
EGR delete
![[Image: IMG_0946_zpsae1e09cb.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0946_zpsae1e09cb.jpg)
valves adjusted, everything painted and cleaned up (except for my garage floor)
![[Image: IMG_0947_zpsf8a26045.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/IMG_0947_zpsf8a26045.jpg)
Thats about where i'm at right now, im waiting on trying to track down a used trail gear v6 adapter for my tcase.
so i figured I would do a build thread because each of the build threads that i read through when planning this conversion offered some different piece of advice that has been helpful to me and i hope that I can help someone else out.
So heres what's going on:
My wife's 93 YJ, which is now mostly an offroad toy, but also the spare car if one of our others die, has been a great rig so far. It has the 4.0 HO, ax-15, np231, dana 44 front w/ detroit, GM 14 bolt rear w/ govlock, Toyo MT 38x14.5x16s.
It's been great but, sadly the head gasket popped on us recently and I figured it was time for a change. I put a turbo diesel in my samurai and i love it so i figured i would us the head gasket as an excuse to put one in her jeep as well.
I also decided this was a good time to switch things up in the drivetrain. I picked this up for $100
mostly for this:
I'll be swapping the AX-15 input shaft into the Toyota r150 and then putting a single toyota transfercase with trail creeper 4.7 gears in it. I thought about dual cases, but her rear driveline is already short and i think that 4.7's should be fine for her.
I picked up this very well maintained 1980 300SD for $500 and drove it home
First things first
then on to more important things
The 300SD's current state
next is to make a little bit more room
called in a buddy for some help
tore off the intake and exhaust manifolds, the turbo and the valve cover to do some cleanup and adjustments.
about as clean as its going to get
painted it with some flat black header paint, looks much better than rust colored
EGR delete
valves adjusted, everything painted and cleaned up (except for my garage floor)
Thats about where i'm at right now, im waiting on trying to track down a used trail gear v6 adapter for my tcase.
lgreeley83
03-24-2013, 06:06 AM #2Lol pink.
looks fun.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Honestly wish my wife would let me do this for her. My efforts would be spoiled I think. She hates driving.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
03-24-2013, 12:51 PM #4Lol yeah, like buying a woman a pistol with pink hand grips. (she keeps it in the glove box?)
Honestly wish my wife would let me do this for her. My efforts would be spoiled I think. She hates driving.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
When you install the adapter get a mic on the input shaft (via the inspection plate) to help venter it all up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-25-2013, 08:16 AM #6I love the pink!
When you install the adapter get a mic on the input shaft (via the inspection plate) to help venter it all up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
cool swap though, look forward to updates
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
man, I would have put that 116 chassis up for sale again as a parts vehicle or parted it out before crushing it. Easily would have tripled your investment on that car. Lots of rare parts just got crushed that those of us in the rust belt would have appreciated!
cool swap though, look forward to updates
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-4303.html
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-25-2013, 10:29 AM #8He did:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-4303.html
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-25-2013, 10:29 AM)Simpler=Better He did:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-4303.html
well holy shit! I need to check for sale more often I guess.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(03-25-2013, 10:29 AM)Simpler=Better He did:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-4303.html
well holy shit! I need to check for sale more often I guess.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-25-2013, 11:17 AM #10view toady's posts up top that's how you get the good stuff cheap
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-25-2013, 08:16 AM)Simpler=Better I love the pink!
When you install the adapter get a mic on the input shaft (via the inspection plate) to help venter it all up
Good idea! Didn't think about that!
(03-25-2013, 10:21 AM)JB3 man, I would have put that 116 chassis up for sale again as a parts vehicle or parted it out before crushing it. Easily would have tripled your investment on that car. Lots of rare parts just got crushed that those of us in the rust belt would have appreciated!
cool swap though, look forward to updates
I tried! I had it here, Craigslist and a local by and sell. No one wanted it! It was a shame, not a dent anywhere on the body and just a tiny bit of peeling paint on the trunk. Interior was great too. I got $100 for it as scrap, so I at least got a little bit back.
For the egr delete on the intake, I'm thinking of tapping the hole for a 1" pipe plug, since I can't weld aluminum.
The exhaust was easy, just used my 1" hole saw and cut it out of 1/4" steel and welded it in
(03-25-2013, 08:16 AM)Simpler=Better I love the pink!
When you install the adapter get a mic on the input shaft (via the inspection plate) to help venter it all up
Good idea! Didn't think about that!
(03-25-2013, 10:21 AM)JB3 man, I would have put that 116 chassis up for sale again as a parts vehicle or parted it out before crushing it. Easily would have tripled your investment on that car. Lots of rare parts just got crushed that those of us in the rust belt would have appreciated!
cool swap though, look forward to updates
I tried! I had it here, Craigslist and a local by and sell. No one wanted it! It was a shame, not a dent anywhere on the body and just a tiny bit of peeling paint on the trunk. Interior was great too. I got $100 for it as scrap, so I at least got a little bit back.
For the egr delete on the intake, I'm thinking of tapping the hole for a 1" pipe plug, since I can't weld aluminum.
The exhaust was easy, just used my 1" hole saw and cut it out of 1/4" steel and welded it in
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-25-2013, 01:42 PM #12A pipe plug if just fine, or you can slap a piece of flat stock and some RTV on there.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
pulled out all the vacuum lines and ghetto wiring from previous owner.
got started on my new motor mounts. cut them out of 1/2" steel. will weld brackets on them to attach to bushings on frame side mount. using 2"x.250" DOM tubing and 3/4" grade 8 bolts for the motor mounts, should be strong enough i think.
![[Image: bc063e58-6a2a-407a-a683-d4d1cb194926_zpsefb7fd16.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/bc063e58-6a2a-407a-a683-d4d1cb194926_zpsefb7fd16.jpg)
also mounted the turbo. sticking with a stock, non intercooled turbo for now.
![[Image: 2EBD3FF2-6565-48B4-85A8-2B0598F899A0-193...aa95d3.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/2EBD3FF2-6565-48B4-85A8-2B0598F899A0-19372-0000084ED07F3243_zps43aa95d3.jpg)
waiting on my v6 adapter plate, so havent been able to do much.
pulled out all the vacuum lines and ghetto wiring from previous owner.
got started on my new motor mounts. cut them out of 1/2" steel. will weld brackets on them to attach to bushings on frame side mount. using 2"x.250" DOM tubing and 3/4" grade 8 bolts for the motor mounts, should be strong enough i think.
also mounted the turbo. sticking with a stock, non intercooled turbo for now.
(03-28-2013, 03:29 PM)jenyus waiting on my v6 adapter plate, so havent been able to do much.
pulled out all the vacuum lines and ghetto wiring from previous owner.
got started on my new motor mounts. cut them out of 1/2" steel. will weld brackets on them to attach to bushings on frame side mount. using 2"x.250" DOM tubing and 3/4" grade 8 bolts for the motor mounts, should be strong enough i think.
also mounted the turbo. sticking with a stock, non intercooled turbo for now.
pink?...
Austincarnut
03-28-2013, 10:20 PM #17(03-28-2013, 03:29 PM)jenyus waiting on my v6 adapter plate, so havent been able to do much.
pulled out all the vacuum lines and ghetto wiring from previous owner.
got started on my new motor mounts. cut them out of 1/2" steel. will weld brackets on them to attach to bushings on frame side mount. using 2"x.250" DOM tubing and 3/4" grade 8 bolts for the motor mounts, should be strong enough i think.
also mounted the turbo. sticking with a stock, non intercooled turbo for now.
pink?...
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D
2006 Jeep Rubicon Wrangler
1995 Jeep Wrangler
1991 Jeep Wrangler POS
1975 Jeep Cj5
1993 Dodge W250 Cummins
2013 Volkswagen Passat Tdi
1998 Chevy S-10 For sale
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/146F1713-B612-4B8F-AC17-02DABD6372D9-3301-0000016D2C0A1CF0_zpsbd786bbc.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 146F1713-B612-4B8F-AC17-02DABD6372D9-330...786bbc.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/146F1713-B612-4B8F-AC17-02DABD6372D9-3301-0000016D2C0A1CF0_zpsbd786bbc.jpg)
[/URL]tranny and case in
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/943A191C-C336-43F3-8F86-D6C810019C94-3301-0000016D3600380B_zpsd2d31942.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 943A191C-C336-43F3-8F86-D6C810019C94-330...d31942.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/943A191C-C336-43F3-8F86-D6C810019C94-3301-0000016D3600380B_zpsd2d31942.jpg)
[/URL]unistrut mounted to skid plate threaded holes temporarily for mockup, im going to do a flat belly skid plate when im done
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/8F994913-3157-4069-BF37-4BEC7E62B98E-3301-0000016D4AE512F2_zps6a3b38ef.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 8F994913-3157-4069-BF37-4BEC7E62B98E-330...3b38ef.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/8F994913-3157-4069-BF37-4BEC7E62B98E-3301-0000016D4AE512F2_zps6a3b38ef.jpg)
[/URL][URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/1852829D-4523-407C-95AC-18C83E74E8E4-3301-0000016D5A43A50E_zps79f70d0f.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 1852829D-4523-407C-95AC-18C83E74E8E4-330...f70d0f.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/1852829D-4523-407C-95AC-18C83E74E8E4-3301-0000016D5A43A50E_zps79f70d0f.jpg)
[/URL]engine in, havent built the motor mounts yet, supported on wood blocks to get the height right. looks like it was made for it.
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/B276601A-0F85-4729-BF36-E830D2B4D94F-3301-0000016D6E75651B_zps253f83cc.jpg.html"]
![[Image: B276601A-0F85-4729-BF36-E830D2B4D94F-330...3f83cc.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/B276601A-0F85-4729-BF36-E830D2B4D94F-3301-0000016D6E75651B_zps253f83cc.jpg)
[/URL][URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/F9171BFA-C676-4F88-8DC2-C233EF1A6792-3301-0000016D74C33A9B_zps2581a8ec.jpg.html"]
![[Image: F9171BFA-C676-4F88-8DC2-C233EF1A6792-330...81a8ec.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/F9171BFA-C676-4F88-8DC2-C233EF1A6792-3301-0000016D74C33A9B_zps2581a8ec.jpg)
[/URL]r150 tailhousing has the shifter further back, unfortunately. was hoping i could push the motor forward a bit more, but i dont really have any more room. gonna have to cut the cup holders off the tuffy to accommodate the tcase shifter.
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/03ADB7A3-38A8-4987-9654-DDA0DD0A3D7E-3301-0000016D7E073422_zps34f206ea.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 03ADB7A3-38A8-4987-9654-DDA0DD0A3D7E-330...f206ea.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/03ADB7A3-38A8-4987-9654-DDA0DD0A3D7E-3301-0000016D7E073422_zps34f206ea.jpg)
[/URL]took a break from the hard stuff and got my speedomoter set up. its from a 77 toyota.
seems to have worked!
77 toyota speedomeeter on righ jeep on left. they have almost exactly the same speed range so it should work perfectly.
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/BACF7C92-09CF-4F40-82B2-34B891A7A398-3301-0000016D8B7D7145_zps8cc28bd9.jpg.html"]
![[Image: BACF7C92-09CF-4F40-82B2-34B891A7A398-330...c28bd9.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/BACF7C92-09CF-4F40-82B2-34B891A7A398-3301-0000016D8B7D7145_zps8cc28bd9.jpg)
[/URL]mechanisms similar in size
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/31604E22-27B1-486A-8104-D39853C35874-3301-0000016D84A38E8C_zps08287302.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 31604E22-27B1-486A-8104-D39853C35874-330...287302.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/31604E22-27B1-486A-8104-D39853C35874-3301-0000016D84A38E8C_zps08287302.jpg)
[/URL]looks factory! only difference is the yota doesnt have a trip meter, so i covered up the other slot. I clamped the two together and redrilled the jeep face for the toyota holes. everything is toyota except for the face
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/238DABC0-6442-4E8E-82D1-09588014308A-3301-0000016D9482F01B_zpsf55be589.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 238DABC0-6442-4E8E-82D1-09588014308A-330...5be589.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/238DABC0-6442-4E8E-82D1-09588014308A-3301-0000016D9482F01B_zpsf55be589.jpg)
[/URL]cant even tell
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/12489A56-72D8-496E-9190-9F23EF0CBEA9-3301-0000016D9AB9478E_zps02ce3efe.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 12489A56-72D8-496E-9190-9F23EF0CBEA9-330...ce3efe.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/12489A56-72D8-496E-9190-9F23EF0CBEA9-3301-0000016D9AB9478E_zps02ce3efe.jpg)
[/URL]back dremeled out
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/9F1E2B9E-6D01-4642-A310-244CC3D50175-3301-0000016DA30F0BFE_zps6ceda489.jpg.html"]
![[Image: 9F1E2B9E-6D01-4642-A310-244CC3D50175-330...eda489.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/9F1E2B9E-6D01-4642-A310-244CC3D50175-3301-0000016DA30F0BFE_zps6ceda489.jpg)
[/URL]
toyota r150 with ax-15 input shaft, trail gear v6 adapter plate and gear drive transfercase with trail gear 4.7:1 gears. thought about doing a doubler but just dont have the room
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/146F1713-B612-4B8F-AC17-02DABD6372D9-3301-0000016D2C0A1CF0_zpsbd786bbc.jpg.html"][/URL]
tranny and case in
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/943A191C-C336-43F3-8F86-D6C810019C94-3301-0000016D3600380B_zpsd2d31942.jpg.html"][/URL]
unistrut mounted to skid plate threaded holes temporarily for mockup, im going to do a flat belly skid plate when im done
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/8F994913-3157-4069-BF37-4BEC7E62B98E-3301-0000016D4AE512F2_zps6a3b38ef.jpg.html"][/URL]
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/1852829D-4523-407C-95AC-18C83E74E8E4-3301-0000016D5A43A50E_zps79f70d0f.jpg.html"][/URL]
engine in, havent built the motor mounts yet, supported on wood blocks to get the height right. looks like it was made for it.
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/B276601A-0F85-4729-BF36-E830D2B4D94F-3301-0000016D6E75651B_zps253f83cc.jpg.html"][/URL]
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/F9171BFA-C676-4F88-8DC2-C233EF1A6792-3301-0000016D74C33A9B_zps2581a8ec.jpg.html"][/URL]
r150 tailhousing has the shifter further back, unfortunately. was hoping i could push the motor forward a bit more, but i dont really have any more room. gonna have to cut the cup holders off the tuffy to accommodate the tcase shifter.
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/03ADB7A3-38A8-4987-9654-DDA0DD0A3D7E-3301-0000016D7E073422_zps34f206ea.jpg.html"][/URL]
took a break from the hard stuff and got my speedomoter set up. its from a 77 toyota.
seems to have worked!
77 toyota speedomeeter on righ jeep on left. they have almost exactly the same speed range so it should work perfectly.
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/BACF7C92-09CF-4F40-82B2-34B891A7A398-3301-0000016D8B7D7145_zps8cc28bd9.jpg.html"]
[/URL]mechanisms similar in size
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/31604E22-27B1-486A-8104-D39853C35874-3301-0000016D84A38E8C_zps08287302.jpg.html"]
[/URL]looks factory! only difference is the yota doesnt have a trip meter, so i covered up the other slot. I clamped the two together and redrilled the jeep face for the toyota holes. everything is toyota except for the face
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/238DABC0-6442-4E8E-82D1-09588014308A-3301-0000016D9482F01B_zpsf55be589.jpg.html"]
[/URL]cant even tell
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/12489A56-72D8-496E-9190-9F23EF0CBEA9-3301-0000016D9AB9478E_zps02ce3efe.jpg.html"]
[/URL]back dremeled out
[URL="http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/9F1E2B9E-6D01-4642-A310-244CC3D50175-3301-0000016DA30F0BFE_zps6ceda489.jpg.html"]
[/URL]
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-15-2013, 09:14 AM #21If you convert to an electric fan you can push the motor forward another 2-3"
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(04-14-2013, 04:41 PM)jenyus took a break from the hard stuff and got my speedomoter set up. its from a 77 toyota.
seems to have worked!
77 toyota speedomeeter on righ jeep on left. they have almost exactly the same speed range so it should work perfectly.
looks factory! only difference is the yota doesnt have a trip meter, so i covered up the other slot. I clamped the two together and redrilled the jeep face for the toyota holes. everything is toyota except for the face
cant even tell
back dremeled out
awesome solution, does look factory. No one would ever notice! This thing is flying together nicely!
(we need a thumbs up icon)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-14-2013, 04:41 PM)jenyus took a break from the hard stuff and got my speedomoter set up. its from a 77 toyota.
seems to have worked!
77 toyota speedomeeter on righ jeep on left. they have almost exactly the same speed range so it should work perfectly.
looks factory! only difference is the yota doesnt have a trip meter, so i covered up the other slot. I clamped the two together and redrilled the jeep face for the toyota holes. everything is toyota except for the face
cant even tell
back dremeled out
awesome solution, does look factory. No one would ever notice! This thing is flying together nicely!
(we need a thumbs up icon)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
SPAL is the top shelf for fans.
You don't need a fancy controller-just a temp switch (leaf through a local parts store to find on that will work) and a relay.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-15-2013, 01:04 PM #24Taurus Fans are cheap and have 2 speed relays from the factory. I'm running a $60 generic eb&y fan on my DD it's been great.
SPAL is the top shelf for fans.
You don't need a fancy controller-just a temp switch (leaf through a local parts store to find on that will work) and a relay.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
built the frame side motor mount bracket out of 1/2" steel, overkill, i know, but id rather be overkill than have to worry about it at all.
![[Image: 1BCBCA92-DDF0-4CD2-B06F-A55267295E01-301...1585ce.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/1BCBCA92-DDF0-4CD2-B06F-A55267295E01-30148-00000D3E638C4166_zps141585ce.jpg.html)
engine side mount. 2"x.250" DOM tubing. you can see a boogered the top left hole, gonna weld up the other hole. Braced with 1/4" flat stock. again, i think this is all overkill, but better safe than sorry.
![[Image: C7F62402-08C5-4F13-AAEB-A7E595889BA6-301...27d876.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/C7F62402-08C5-4F13-AAEB-A7E595889BA6-30148-00000D3E58679FD2_zps0327d876.jpg.html)
![[Image: F434B1F8-10F6-4921-86D7-A2B03E2CB226-301...d4d4fc.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/F434B1F8-10F6-4921-86D7-A2B03E2CB226-30148-00000D3E514D9058_zps37d4d4fc.jpg.html)
![[Image: 49380417-5ED1-4C5B-BA52-05E60690ADCB-301...a22551.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/49380417-5ED1-4C5B-BA52-05E60690ADCB-30148-00000D3E4AA9393D_zps1ba22551.jpg.html)
about as clean as i can get the welds with a 110v welder and flux core wire. I used flux core on the mounts for better penetration at the expense of pretty.
![[Image: 62C47E55-B88C-4986-A5BC-2977A256E669-301...0b92ed.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/62C47E55-B88C-4986-A5BC-2977A256E669-30148-00000D3E41DD9AAE_zps2a0b92ed.jpg.html)
thats where I'm at now. heres a list of things i need to finish before its on the road.
-rewire fuel pump
-put gauge cluster back in
-add boost gauge
-swap front 44 for my other passenger drop 44 and move the gears, locker and knuckles over
-driver side motor mount
-pull motor back out to put clutch back on and burn in frame side brackets
-radiator hoses
-fuel lines
-fuel pressure regulator
-drain gas from tank and fill with diesel
-build skidplate
-cut down front driveline
-send rear driveline off to be lengthened and balanced.
-exhaust
I'm thinking i'm about a month out with everything that i've got going on right now. sucks not having it ready though with this nice weather we've been having out here.
been a crazy last few weeks with work and school but i made some progress tonight.
built the frame side motor mount bracket out of 1/2" steel, overkill, i know, but id rather be overkill than have to worry about it at all.
engine side mount. 2"x.250" DOM tubing. you can see a boogered the top left hole, gonna weld up the other hole. Braced with 1/4" flat stock. again, i think this is all overkill, but better safe than sorry.
about as clean as i can get the welds with a 110v welder and flux core wire. I used flux core on the mounts for better penetration at the expense of pretty.
thats where I'm at now. heres a list of things i need to finish before its on the road.
-rewire fuel pump
-put gauge cluster back in
-add boost gauge
-swap front 44 for my other passenger drop 44 and move the gears, locker and knuckles over
-driver side motor mount
-pull motor back out to put clutch back on and burn in frame side brackets
-radiator hoses
-fuel lines
-fuel pressure regulator
-drain gas from tank and fill with diesel
-build skidplate
-cut down front driveline
-send rear driveline off to be lengthened and balanced.
-exhaust
I'm thinking i'm about a month out with everything that i've got going on right now. sucks not having it ready though with this nice weather we've been having out here.
(04-14-2013, 04:41 PM)jenyus toyota r150 with ax-15 input shaft, trail gear v6 adapter plate and gear drive transfercase with trail gear 4.7:1 gears.
Could you have just used the ax-15 instead of the r150?
Why swap the ax-15 input shaft onto the r150?
Thanks,
-Dan
![[Image: IMG_1485_zps84a9f553.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_1485_zps84a9f553.jpg.html)
![[Image: 3291659F-FD21-4FA6-BE16-140247E7D291-436...80f35c.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/3291659F-FD21-4FA6-BE16-140247E7D291-4364-000001EA273B49C7_zps9980f35c.jpg.html)
![[Image: AA7C2E7E-398B-4A13-A671-5F7CCA77345A-436...6a007b.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/AA7C2E7E-398B-4A13-A671-5F7CCA77345A-4364-000001EA44E79E52_zps8f6a007b.jpg.html)
![[Image: FBA0D788-9CA7-4E02-9044-36A3ECB74655-436...eb2fac.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/FBA0D788-9CA7-4E02-9044-36A3ECB74655-4364-000001EA5016F315_zps9ceb2fac.jpg.html)
hangs down about 3" from the bottom of the frame, not quite as tucked as i would have liked, but im happy with that
![[Image: 464279BA-A33A-4711-9421-BC042A72C4D8-436...9c8a23.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/464279BA-A33A-4711-9421-BC042A72C4D8-4364-000001EA628F9C85_zps8d9c8a23.jpg.html)
got some more done. ran the yota speedo cable into the dash, fits perfect like it was made to be there
![[Image: IMG_1510_zpsa2260f65.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_1510_zpsa2260f65.jpg.html)
got the injection pump linkage set up, need to trim it down a few inches, i was able to reuse part of the stock benz throttle (i know not really throttle, most diesels dont use a throttle, but you know what i mean) bracketry, which had a square hole that fit the jeep throttle cable perfectly, used one of the stock benz pivot balls on the IP rocker.
![[Image: IMG_1508_zps3512ebc3.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_1508_zps3512ebc3.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_1507_zpsb8c16b66.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_1507_zpsb8c16b66.jpg.html)
reused more stock benz stuff keeping the throttle cable under control
![[Image: IMG_1509_zps5378f808.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_1509_zps5378f808.jpg.html)
also shortened the rear driveshaft while i was at it. im using a yota CV driveline with a toyota joint at the bottom end of the yoke with 1310 caps to bolt into the 10-bolt yoke i'm using on the 14-bolt rear end. not nearly as sketchy as it sounds.
left to do:
-put drivelines back in
-install fuel pressure regulator
-install vacuum valve to shutoff motor when it loses switched power
-fill up fluids
-retap oil pressure sensor hole to accommodate jeep oil pressure sender
-retap thermostat housing to accommodate jeep temp sender
-cut out transmission tunnel of jeep a little more to fit the yota shifters
-build new drag link and tie rod
-replace passenger side knuckle ball joint
and thats it! its getting really close!!
got some more progress done tonight. everything is mounted now! modified a marlin crawler transfercase mount wth rubber bushings and 9/16" bolts. sorry pics are crappy from my iphone.
hangs down about 3" from the bottom of the frame, not quite as tucked as i would have liked, but im happy with that
got some more done. ran the yota speedo cable into the dash, fits perfect like it was made to be there
got the injection pump linkage set up, need to trim it down a few inches, i was able to reuse part of the stock benz throttle (i know not really throttle, most diesels dont use a throttle, but you know what i mean) bracketry, which had a square hole that fit the jeep throttle cable perfectly, used one of the stock benz pivot balls on the IP rocker.
reused more stock benz stuff keeping the throttle cable under control
also shortened the rear driveshaft while i was at it. im using a yota CV driveline with a toyota joint at the bottom end of the yoke with 1310 caps to bolt into the 10-bolt yoke i'm using on the 14-bolt rear end. not nearly as sketchy as it sounds.
left to do:
-put drivelines back in
-install fuel pressure regulator
-install vacuum valve to shutoff motor when it loses switched power
-fill up fluids
-retap oil pressure sensor hole to accommodate jeep oil pressure sender
-retap thermostat housing to accommodate jeep temp sender
-cut out transmission tunnel of jeep a little more to fit the yota shifters
-build new drag link and tie rod
-replace passenger side knuckle ball joint
and thats it! its getting really close!!
made some ghetto armor, she put a small dent in the diff cover so i decided to put some 1/4" flat stock on it to give it a little bit more strength.
![[Image: 25A47551-3446-4D11-B936-29AEEC0289FB-119...1927b8.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/25A47551-3446-4D11-B936-29AEEC0289FB-119-000000011B801729_zps941927b8.jpg.html)
![[Image: 66170DE3-8A1E-4BDA-B174-1E111AB22DDC-119...b6b979.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/66170DE3-8A1E-4BDA-B174-1E111AB22DDC-119-0000000126D68F42_zpsaab6b979.jpg.html)
mounted the oil cooler. used the stock lines, but cut down one of them down and put a hose clamp on it. hopefully it stays on it without having to flare it.
![[Image: 8792E993-2A56-412D-83DB-34712532B9D9-119...cb5495.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/8792E993-2A56-412D-83DB-34712532B9D9-119-0000000138F7C7DF_zpsbecb5495.jpg.html)
![[Image: 438F526D-DE3A-4FBA-BCB6-57E4AB87AF9F-119...8352f3.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/438F526D-DE3A-4FBA-BCB6-57E4AB87AF9F-119-0000000143B1D007_zps008352f3.jpg.html)
glow plug relay temporarily wired up to get it started. tried to start it tonight but the battery died.
mess of stock wires to clean up
![[Image: 729D7027-534F-4FD7-B2CB-FA9571CA1AFA-119...694515.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/729D7027-534F-4FD7-B2CB-FA9571CA1AFA-119-000000015BDA9EE5_zps88694515.jpg.html)
knuckles on
![[Image: 176057A8-2319-41FB-ADD9-3EE2130C5524-119...abfd75.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/176057A8-2319-41FB-ADD9-3EE2130C5524-119-000000016B70D371_zps89abfd75.jpg.html)
passenger side all back together
![[Image: 9CE5BCF1-8BCC-414F-A126-34FF31436EF6-119...b6aa64.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/9CE5BCF1-8BCC-414F-A126-34FF31436EF6-119-00000001747902F1_zps5db6aa64.jpg.html)
fuel pressure regulator
![[Image: 443830FA-D417-4C7F-9864-F3BB94F8759F-119...b2dda2.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/443830FA-D417-4C7F-9864-F3BB94F8759F-119-0000000180740593_zpsa3b2dda2.jpg.html)
plugging away at it little by little.
made some ghetto armor, she put a small dent in the diff cover so i decided to put some 1/4" flat stock on it to give it a little bit more strength.
mounted the oil cooler. used the stock lines, but cut down one of them down and put a hose clamp on it. hopefully it stays on it without having to flare it.
glow plug relay temporarily wired up to get it started. tried to start it tonight but the battery died.
mess of stock wires to clean up
knuckles on
passenger side all back together
fuel pressure regulator
You will definitely blow the oil cooler line though. The peak oil pressure is around 100psi, and guys have had clamped smooth pipes fail. A quick flare with a propane torch and ball peen would be better than nothing. Or have a local shop press a nice flare onto it.
All this Jeep talk is making me itch to pull my crapcan out of the woods
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-24-2013, 10:20 AM #32Lookin' good!
You will definitely blow the oil cooler line though. The peak oil pressure is around 100psi, and guys have had clamped smooth pipes fail. A quick flare with a propane torch and ball peen would be better than nothing. Or have a local shop press a nice flare onto it.
All this Jeep talk is making me itch to pull my crapcan out of the woods
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I used the same piece for my GM throttle bit, amazing how they all work, now we know that GM, Jeep, and MB have a common throttle cable/idle advance square hole size. Im wondering if its some kind of industry standard
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I love how this is turning out. Whats your criteria for what you paint pink? Is she selecting the accent bits?
I used the same piece for my GM throttle bit, amazing how they all work, now we know that GM, Jeep, and MB have a common throttle cable/idle advance square hole size. Im wondering if its some kind of industry standard
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-24-2013, 10:20 AM)Simpler=Better Lookin' good!
You will definitely blow the oil cooler line though. The peak oil pressure is around 100psi, and guys have had clamped smooth pipes fail. A quick flare with a propane torch and ball peen would be better than nothing. Or have a local shop press a nice flare onto it.
All this Jeep talk is making me itch to pull my crapcan out of the woods
Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
(09-24-2013, 12:29 PM)JB3 I love how this is turning out. Whats your criteria for what you paint pink? Is she selecting the accent bits?
I used the same piece for my GM throttle bit, amazing how they all work, now we know that GM, Jeep, and MB have a common throttle cable/idle advance square hole size. Im wondering if its some kind of industry standard
Thanks! Yeah mostly just accent pieces. Don't want to overwhelm it with pink but a little here and there looks the best.
That's cool that that part is so interchangeable! I guess a metric square hole and std square hole is the same!
This has been a fun and fairly straightforward conversion so far. Much simpler than the Peugeot turbo diesel I put in my Suzuki samurai!
(09-24-2013, 10:20 AM)Simpler=Better Lookin' good!
You will definitely blow the oil cooler line though. The peak oil pressure is around 100psi, and guys have had clamped smooth pipes fail. A quick flare with a propane torch and ball peen would be better than nothing. Or have a local shop press a nice flare onto it.
All this Jeep talk is making me itch to pull my crapcan out of the woods
Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
(09-24-2013, 12:29 PM)JB3 I love how this is turning out. Whats your criteria for what you paint pink? Is she selecting the accent bits?
I used the same piece for my GM throttle bit, amazing how they all work, now we know that GM, Jeep, and MB have a common throttle cable/idle advance square hole size. Im wondering if its some kind of industry standard
Thanks! Yeah mostly just accent pieces. Don't want to overwhelm it with pink but a little here and there looks the best.
That's cool that that part is so interchangeable! I guess a metric square hole and std square hole is the same!
This has been a fun and fairly straightforward conversion so far. Much simpler than the Peugeot turbo diesel I put in my Suzuki samurai!
(09-26-2013, 03:43 AM)jenyus Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
I've got a DJ5 frame/232 I6/3spd auto, 2wd. Right now It's got the DJ5 mail truck body on it, which isn't mine but will be swapped for a CJ5 body. It needs new brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders, a LOT of pressure washing under the hood, and some de-rigging on the carb & linkage. Could probably have her on the road if I spent a Saturday and $150 on it (Plus $100 for some used tires that aren't dry rotted)
[misty eyes] one day she will have my 617, sm465, np205, heavier axles, etc....I almost have all the parts. Flywheel/clutch R&D is ongoing [/misty eyes]
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-26-2013, 07:52 AM #35(09-26-2013, 03:43 AM)jenyus Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
I've got a DJ5 frame/232 I6/3spd auto, 2wd. Right now It's got the DJ5 mail truck body on it, which isn't mine but will be swapped for a CJ5 body. It needs new brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders, a LOT of pressure washing under the hood, and some de-rigging on the carb & linkage. Could probably have her on the road if I spent a Saturday and $150 on it (Plus $100 for some used tires that aren't dry rotted)
[misty eyes] one day she will have my 617, sm465, np205, heavier axles, etc....I almost have all the parts. Flywheel/clutch R&D is ongoing [/misty eyes]
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
09-26-2013, 10:55 PM #36So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(09-26-2013, 07:52 AM)Simpler=Better(09-26-2013, 03:43 AM)jenyus Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
I've got a DJ5 frame/232 I6/3spd auto, 2wd. Right now It's got the DJ5 mail truck body on it, which isn't mine but will be swapped for a CJ5 body. It needs new brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders, a LOT of pressure washing under the hood, and some de-rigging on the carb & linkage. Could probably have her on the road if I spent a Saturday and $150 on it (Plus $100 for some used tires that aren't dry rotted)
[misty eyes] one day she will have my 617, sm465, np205, heavier axles, etc....I almost have all the parts. Flywheel/clutch R&D is ongoing [/misty eyes]
That would be pretty cool with an om617 in it!
(09-26-2013, 10:55 PM)sassparilla_kid So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
We live in a place where smog is only required at the time of sale. I just won't be able to sell it. Otherwise, I will "sell" it to a friend in another state that will let me register it with the older engine, register it as a diesel and then transfer it back into California. Totally legal right?
(09-26-2013, 07:52 AM)Simpler=Better(09-26-2013, 03:43 AM)jenyus Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
I've got a DJ5 frame/232 I6/3spd auto, 2wd. Right now It's got the DJ5 mail truck body on it, which isn't mine but will be swapped for a CJ5 body. It needs new brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders, a LOT of pressure washing under the hood, and some de-rigging on the carb & linkage. Could probably have her on the road if I spent a Saturday and $150 on it (Plus $100 for some used tires that aren't dry rotted)
[misty eyes] one day she will have my 617, sm465, np205, heavier axles, etc....I almost have all the parts. Flywheel/clutch R&D is ongoing [/misty eyes]
That would be pretty cool with an om617 in it!
(09-26-2013, 10:55 PM)sassparilla_kid So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
We live in a place where smog is only required at the time of sale. I just won't be able to sell it. Otherwise, I will "sell" it to a friend in another state that will let me register it with the older engine, register it as a diesel and then transfer it back into California. Totally legal right?
(09-26-2013, 10:55 PM)sassparilla_kid So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
Depends on the State. In California a conversion needs to have a newer motor in it than the vehicle, and all the emissions equipment for THAT motor must be in place.
For Georgia, all that needs to be necessary is that the vehicle passes the emissions required for the base vehicle. Since my vehicle is over 25 years, I just need to pay the tax and that's it, no inspection. I'm not sure what is required in the OPs home state.
(09-26-2013, 10:55 PM)sassparilla_kid So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
Depends on the State. In California a conversion needs to have a newer motor in it than the vehicle, and all the emissions equipment for THAT motor must be in place.
For Georgia, all that needs to be necessary is that the vehicle passes the emissions required for the base vehicle. Since my vehicle is over 25 years, I just need to pay the tax and that's it, no inspection. I'm not sure what is required in the OPs home state.
(09-27-2013, 01:06 AM)jenyus(09-26-2013, 07:52 AM)Simpler=Better(09-26-2013, 03:43 AM)jenyus Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
I've got a DJ5 frame/232 I6/3spd auto, 2wd. Right now It's got the DJ5 mail truck body on it, which isn't mine but will be swapped for a CJ5 body. It needs new brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders, a LOT of pressure washing under the hood, and some de-rigging on the carb & linkage. Could probably have her on the road if I spent a Saturday and $150 on it (Plus $100 for some used tires that aren't dry rotted)
[misty eyes] one day she will have my 617, sm465, np205, heavier axles, etc....I almost have all the parts. Flywheel/clutch R&D is ongoing [/misty eyes]
That would be pretty cool with an om617 in it!
(09-26-2013, 10:55 PM)sassparilla_kid So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
We live in a place where smog is only required at the time of sale. I just won't be able to sell it. Otherwise, I will "sell" it to a friend in another state that will let me register it with the older engine, register it as a diesel and then transfer it back into California. Totally legal right?
If you run quality biodiesel your exhaust opacity goes to 0%
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-27-2013, 07:07 AM #39(09-27-2013, 01:06 AM)jenyus(09-26-2013, 07:52 AM)Simpler=Better(09-26-2013, 03:43 AM)jenyus Okay thanks! In the past I've welded little nubs onto the hard line to give the clamp something to bite onto but I like your idea a lot more! What kind of crapcan do you have?
I've got a DJ5 frame/232 I6/3spd auto, 2wd. Right now It's got the DJ5 mail truck body on it, which isn't mine but will be swapped for a CJ5 body. It needs new brake lines and possibly wheel cylinders, a LOT of pressure washing under the hood, and some de-rigging on the carb & linkage. Could probably have her on the road if I spent a Saturday and $150 on it (Plus $100 for some used tires that aren't dry rotted)
[misty eyes] one day she will have my 617, sm465, np205, heavier axles, etc....I almost have all the parts. Flywheel/clutch R&D is ongoing [/misty eyes]
That would be pretty cool with an om617 in it!
(09-26-2013, 10:55 PM)sassparilla_kid So wait a minute here, is this thing used for only offroad? Otherwise I'm curious how you'll be able to register it as a diesel since the engine is older than the chassis? Or is there something I'm missing here?
We live in a place where smog is only required at the time of sale. I just won't be able to sell it. Otherwise, I will "sell" it to a friend in another state that will let me register it with the older engine, register it as a diesel and then transfer it back into California. Totally legal right?
If you run quality biodiesel your exhaust opacity goes to 0%
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
So i tried to start it but it won't start. I haven't finished the fuel lines so it's jut sucking and dumping from a 5gal can of diesel. Glow plugs work, cranking well but not even trying to start, even with starting fluid. I'd assume it's able to suck enough fuel, right? I'd like to start it soon to make sure it all works
Stay away from ether, it's bad news bears for turbo IDI engines. Frustrating to skip the EZ-Start-in-a-can but worth not damaging the engine.
Did you adjust the valves? Is the vacuum shutoff activated accidentally?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-27-2013, 03:16 PM #41Crack your injector lines at the injectors while cranking, see if fuel comes out them tighten them back. Priming the lines can take forever sometimes.
Stay away from ether, it's bad news bears for turbo IDI engines. Frustrating to skip the EZ-Start-in-a-can but worth not damaging the engine.
Did you adjust the valves? Is the vacuum shutoff activated accidentally?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Yeah I adjusted the valves when the motor was out. I think I did it right! Used the guide on diesel giant
Is the vacuum shutoff the little plastic deal on the top of the IP? There aren't any vac lines hooked up to it, so it shouldn't be off, right?
Okay good to know thanks!
Yeah I adjusted the valves when the motor was out. I think I did it right! Used the guide on diesel giant
Is the vacuum shutoff the little plastic deal on the top of the IP? There aren't any vac lines hooked up to it, so it shouldn't be off, right?
The metal pod on the back of the pump is for shutoff. Pull vac, it shuts off. Atmospheric pressure, it runs. If you have it hooked to a "live" vacuum line the pump will pull enough vacuum during cranking to keep it shut off.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-27-2013, 03:33 PM #43The plastic guy is the VCV for the auto transmission.
The metal pod on the back of the pump is for shutoff. Pull vac, it shuts off. Atmospheric pressure, it runs. If you have it hooked to a "live" vacuum line the pump will pull enough vacuum during cranking to keep it shut off.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
So when I cracked the injector lines and hand primed the pump, i met resistance and diesel leaked from underneath the hand pump. Is that normal?
(09-27-2013, 03:35 PM)jenyus Okay good to know. It's not hooked up to anything. So it's just pulling atmosphere right now
So when I cracked the injector lines and hand primed the pump, i met resistance and diesel leaked from underneath the hand pump. Is that normal?
The hand pump shouldn't leak. If it's got a screw top it's the crappy old version. if it's black it's the fancy nice new one.
fuel should leak around the injector tops-when I say crack the lines i mean loosen the 17mm nut on top of the injectors just a bit, then crank the starter. Once it starts leaking fuel there tighten the nut back down. just like bleeding brakes, x5 injectors.
edit: the hand pump won't prime the injector lines-you need to crank it over to do that.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-27-2013, 03:39 PM #45(09-27-2013, 03:35 PM)jenyus Okay good to know. It's not hooked up to anything. So it's just pulling atmosphere right now
So when I cracked the injector lines and hand primed the pump, i met resistance and diesel leaked from underneath the hand pump. Is that normal?
The hand pump shouldn't leak. If it's got a screw top it's the crappy old version. if it's black it's the fancy nice new one.
fuel should leak around the injector tops-when I say crack the lines i mean loosen the 17mm nut on top of the injectors just a bit, then crank the starter. Once it starts leaking fuel there tighten the nut back down. just like bleeding brakes, x5 injectors.
edit: the hand pump won't prime the injector lines-you need to crank it over to do that.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I'll try that when I get home and well see what happens! Thanks for your help!
I'm excited to get this thing on the road and my wife wants her jeep back
Okay thanks that makes sense then, my lines are probably just full of air then I assume. Mine is the white screw on type.
I'll try that when I get home and well see what happens! Thanks for your help!
I'm excited to get this thing on the road and my wife wants her jeep back
its almost there!
got the front end in and built and made the tie rod and drag link with some new heims. used a 44 front from a chevy and swapped over her knuckles, gears and detroit.
![[Image: D9878F10-32DF-4755-873A-F2E3171D43BC-774...c6f2e1.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/D9878F10-32DF-4755-873A-F2E3171D43BC-774-0000011E988D73C0_zps22c6f2e1.jpg.html)
welded a big nut onto one side to make adjusting the alignment easier without chewing up the tie rod with a pipe wrench.
![[Image: BB70DBA7-4DE8-45EA-B4EE-E9558AA49BE4-774...5df479.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/BB70DBA7-4DE8-45EA-B4EE-E9558AA49BE4-774-0000011E7BC9851D_zpsa55df479.jpg.html)
got the power steering hose made today at Napa as well. cost $38 and took 5 minutes for them to do it. just had to take in my old fittings for them to match. they put a new fitting on for the mercedes side, and for the jeep side they reused a couple inches of the stock jeep line i had cut and attached it with a compression fitting. seems like its going to work real well. line was 22" long.
![[Image: C021A425-481A-46B0-BA54-76619389F811-774...9b5866.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/C021A425-481A-46B0-BA54-76619389F811-774-0000011E48A7C298_zps7a9b5866.jpg.html)
mercedes side
![[Image: 42674A0C-6D6B-41C5-926B-A3D5963E5E23-774...0cfeec.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/42674A0C-6D6B-41C5-926B-A3D5963E5E23-774-0000011E52DE04D5_zpsed0cfeec.jpg.html)
jeep side
![[Image: 7F251166-E605-4917-A2FC-A216351F6F85-774...cee0cb.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/7F251166-E605-4917-A2FC-A216351F6F85-774-0000011E64015E40_zps9dcee0cb.jpg.html)
all i need to do now is fill up the fluids, retap the stock oil sending unit port on the mercedes for the jeep sending unit (to keep the original gauge), wait for the spicer u joints to arrive for the rear driveline, put in a 4.2 tbi fuel pump (lower psi than 4.0HO), put the radiator hoses on, clean up a bit of the wiring and its done!
i decided not to try and start it yet since i dont have anything int he stock oil sender port and i dont want to squirt all my oil out
its almost there!
got the front end in and built and made the tie rod and drag link with some new heims. used a 44 front from a chevy and swapped over her knuckles, gears and detroit.
welded a big nut onto one side to make adjusting the alignment easier without chewing up the tie rod with a pipe wrench.
got the power steering hose made today at Napa as well. cost $38 and took 5 minutes for them to do it. just had to take in my old fittings for them to match. they put a new fitting on for the mercedes side, and for the jeep side they reused a couple inches of the stock jeep line i had cut and attached it with a compression fitting. seems like its going to work real well. line was 22" long.
mercedes side
jeep side
all i need to do now is fill up the fluids, retap the stock oil sending unit port on the mercedes for the jeep sending unit (to keep the original gauge), wait for the spicer u joints to arrive for the rear driveline, put in a 4.2 tbi fuel pump (lower psi than 4.0HO), put the radiator hoses on, clean up a bit of the wiring and its done!
i cracked the injector lines one at a time to bleed them but still nothing. im not getting any smoke from unburned fuel either. not sure if thats normal or not, but on my peugeot diesel in my samurai it pours smoke when its trying to start from all the unburned fuel.
one thing that concerns me is when i used the starting fluid, i saw some smoke come up from inside the valve cover and out the vent tube. why would there by any smoke in there? did i do the valves totally wrong? the motor was in a running/driving 300sd before i pulled it so i would be surprised if there was anything wrong with the engine itself.
any thoughts benz pros? ive spent 8 months building this thing and im ready to drive it!
well its all together and ready for its maiden voyage, but still not starting.
i cracked the injector lines one at a time to bleed them but still nothing. im not getting any smoke from unburned fuel either. not sure if thats normal or not, but on my peugeot diesel in my samurai it pours smoke when its trying to start from all the unburned fuel.
one thing that concerns me is when i used the starting fluid, i saw some smoke come up from inside the valve cover and out the vent tube. why would there by any smoke in there? did i do the valves totally wrong? the motor was in a running/driving 300sd before i pulled it so i would be surprised if there was anything wrong with the engine itself.
any thoughts benz pros? ive spent 8 months building this thing and im ready to drive it!
Has the IP ever been off the block? Did that donor car drive to your place of get towed there?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Well, I am not a benzpro. But, I have put an IP on the block in the complete wrong time. Did you say this motor has never been fired? I would stay off the ether, you shouldn't need that.
Has the IP ever been off the block? Did that donor car drive to your place of get towed there?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
If you have a weird year IP the timing marks are off-I'll see if I can drag up a thread
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-26-2013, 10:00 AM #50Don't ether it! The glowplugs can touch off, crack a prechamber, eat your firstborn, etc. etc.
If you have a weird year IP the timing marks are off-I'll see if I can drag up a thread
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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