Another car, chicago, uhhh 300d turbo w/4 speed manual
Another car, chicago, uhhh 300d turbo w/4 speed manual
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
04-12-2012, 09:11 AM #51Start your search on Borg-Warner's (present owner of Schwitzer/KKK) website. Maybe look for a marine diesel supply house in Chicago. KKK in Seattle is serviced by a marine diesel distributor, Hatton Marine, in Ballard.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
Noy ready for vnt yet. Someday.....
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-12-2012, 09:18 AM #52I think i want to add a bigger compressor wheel to it like captain did with his garret.....that is if i can. I havent read anywhere of people doing that with their kkk. Broken just means excuse to upgrade.
Noy ready for vnt yet. Someday.....
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
04-12-2012, 09:37 AM #53If you decide to go Garrett or Holset, I'd like your exhaust-side housing. Maybe the whole turbo.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
A whole year in egypt to research on how i want to build it :-)
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-12-2012, 10:05 AM #54No i am sure i will keep the turbo for the faster spooling people talk about. I just wonder if i can get more out of it. Someday maybe i will get rid of it for vnt but that is likely a few years away. Id like to get my egr less exhaust manufold and w115 intake before i deploy in july but expect more involved upgrades upon my return in sumner of 2013.
A whole year in egypt to research on how i want to build it :-)
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-24-2012, 06:46 PM #55cleaned my fuel sending unit today. No pics sorry. That thing was super rusty. Looked like car sat for many many years with only a couple gallons in the tank. Fuel guage works now. Did the job on my step dads 240 after mine . Done in under 30 min.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-27-2012, 10:19 PM #56Manifolds off ready for non egr exhaust and w115 intake. Wiring for egt andnturbo gauges done and finally got my dash lights working
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-27-2012, 10:40 PM #57EGT gauge is sweet, my favorite gauge to look at lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-27-2012, 10:43 PM #58Im sure it will tell me all the things ive been doing wrong with my right foot ;-) ive been hot rodding it a little lately after i got my tach working.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
-got the tach working mbelectronics upgrade for the tach amp
-turbo is not dead maybe need a rebuild someday but not yet
-w115 manifold installed
-non egr exhaust manifold installed
-isspro boost and pyrometer installed
-dash lights working
This pic is original w115 manifold no modifications. no grinding, smoothing anything out, just a stock manifold. The two holes I did play with. one hole in it take an m14 bolt, i used a oil pan bolt for some car. the other hole is like an m17 or something that i couldn't find anything for, I tapped the fitting that was there for oil blow by with the same tap I used for exhaust manifold pyrometer. 1/4 NPT. I found a brass fitting that would go into that and that goes to my boost gauge. Some people talk about over boost sensor, i dont know what that is so sorry.
The w115 got in the way of the oil feed line to the turbo. i must have missed that when I read everybody else's builds. I bent that bitch with my hands for over an hour to get it to fit. Can't believe it didn't break. If I were to do the project again I would have some steel braided hose and fitting ready for it. I will likely do that later.
The silicone hose I used was 2.25 to 2.25 with unmodified turbo compressor housing and unmodified w115 intake manifold. I have a kkk turbo but think the garret is the same size. don't quote me.
Dumb shit I wish i didn't do:
-Again that oil feed line. hand bending
-in a rush forgot to scrape old gasket off of oil return line....half of old gasket was left on there with the new one giving me a wonderful cut vein oil leak. I tightened it and tightened it more until I took the return tube off and realized my mistake.
Thanks for all the info you guys give me on here. Helping me grow with my merc...
Oh yeah, difference is a bit noticeable in the low end. My pump is modified but I don't know to what extent. The turbo sounds different for sure. I don't know why, maybe somebody could tell me why it whistles more. Boost seems a bit delayed, i assume due to the slightly larger area to fill with air. Not alot but some.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-31-2012, 12:00 AM #59Ok updates, I dunno what ive written lately
-got the tach working mbelectronics upgrade for the tach amp
-turbo is not dead maybe need a rebuild someday but not yet
-w115 manifold installed
-non egr exhaust manifold installed
-isspro boost and pyrometer installed
-dash lights working
This pic is original w115 manifold no modifications. no grinding, smoothing anything out, just a stock manifold. The two holes I did play with. one hole in it take an m14 bolt, i used a oil pan bolt for some car. the other hole is like an m17 or something that i couldn't find anything for, I tapped the fitting that was there for oil blow by with the same tap I used for exhaust manifold pyrometer. 1/4 NPT. I found a brass fitting that would go into that and that goes to my boost gauge. Some people talk about over boost sensor, i dont know what that is so sorry.
The w115 got in the way of the oil feed line to the turbo. i must have missed that when I read everybody else's builds. I bent that bitch with my hands for over an hour to get it to fit. Can't believe it didn't break. If I were to do the project again I would have some steel braided hose and fitting ready for it. I will likely do that later.
The silicone hose I used was 2.25 to 2.25 with unmodified turbo compressor housing and unmodified w115 intake manifold. I have a kkk turbo but think the garret is the same size. don't quote me.
Dumb shit I wish i didn't do:
-Again that oil feed line. hand bending
-in a rush forgot to scrape old gasket off of oil return line....half of old gasket was left on there with the new one giving me a wonderful cut vein oil leak. I tightened it and tightened it more until I took the return tube off and realized my mistake.
Thanks for all the info you guys give me on here. Helping me grow with my merc...
Oh yeah, difference is a bit noticeable in the low end. My pump is modified but I don't know to what extent. The turbo sounds different for sure. I don't know why, maybe somebody could tell me why it whistles more. Boost seems a bit delayed, i assume due to the slightly larger area to fill with air. Not alot but some.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-31-2012, 09:05 AM #60looks good!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I am getting ready to throw a Goran pump in my car and need to get the little things. Anybody got advice as I move forward? If I can find what I'm looking for can some be more clear as to the needed modifications?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
02-12-2013, 11:13 PM #61Hey all I have a want to buy out there for na m pump linkage for manual trans euro car. Also in reading I see that the oil or fuel or something has a different line. Something different from m mW pump.
I am getting ready to throw a Goran pump in my car and need to get the little things. Anybody got advice as I move forward? If I can find what I'm looking for can some be more clear as to the needed modifications?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-13-2013, 09:00 AM #62The MW pump is fed oil via an external plastic line. The M pump doesn't use this line-so you block if off at the block.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Been looking at vacuum diagrams today but can't find one that leaves the engine bay and goes.to the locks, ignition, etc.
Maybe I don't need a pic for the answer to my question. My car is still ghetto and doesnt shut off with the key. I'm wondering if I can simplify and just have vacuum lines for brakes and engine shutoff? I don't care to diagnose for leaks on this.beater.
Egr gone, no cruise control, manual trans,
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-19-2013, 08:22 AM #63Working on car soon :-)
Been looking at vacuum diagrams today but can't find one that leaves the engine bay and goes.to the locks, ignition, etc.
Maybe I don't need a pic for the answer to my question. My car is still ghetto and doesnt shut off with the key. I'm wondering if I can simplify and just have vacuum lines for brakes and engine shutoff? I don't care to diagnose for leaks on this.beater.
Egr gone, no cruise control, manual trans,
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(04-19-2013, 08:22 AM)lgreeley83 Working on car soon :-)
Been looking at vacuum diagrams today but can't find one that leaves the engine bay and goes.to the locks, ignition, etc.
Maybe I don't need a pic for the answer to my question. My car is still ghetto and doesnt shut off with the key. I'm wondering if I can simplify and just have vacuum lines for brakes and engine shutoff? I don't care to diagnose for leaks on this.beater.
Egr gone, no cruise control, manual trans,
I drove around for I think 5 years with a bit of a twig stuck in that particular boot and the line disconnected.
I can't remember where the other 3 lines went, I think to the other locks but don't quote me, but I can say that the the intersection you want is right on top of the oil filter housing, you usually have to move it aside to remove the oil filter. You can at least target the specific group and go from there tracing colors or coming back toward the main vac line and capping.
Another way to do is identify exactly what you need for engine shutoff, and 86 all the other lines, connections, and valves, really cleans up the engine. Do you have the usual 300D climate control?
For the brakes, as long as the main vac line is good going to the booster with no leaks, then you have power brakes, so keeping that is really about not creating holes in it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-19-2013, 08:22 AM)lgreeley83 Working on car soon :-)
Been looking at vacuum diagrams today but can't find one that leaves the engine bay and goes.to the locks, ignition, etc.
Maybe I don't need a pic for the answer to my question. My car is still ghetto and doesnt shut off with the key. I'm wondering if I can simplify and just have vacuum lines for brakes and engine shutoff? I don't care to diagnose for leaks on this.beater.
Egr gone, no cruise control, manual trans,
I drove around for I think 5 years with a bit of a twig stuck in that particular boot and the line disconnected.
I can't remember where the other 3 lines went, I think to the other locks but don't quote me, but I can say that the the intersection you want is right on top of the oil filter housing, you usually have to move it aside to remove the oil filter. You can at least target the specific group and go from there tracing colors or coming back toward the main vac line and capping.
Another way to do is identify exactly what you need for engine shutoff, and 86 all the other lines, connections, and valves, really cleans up the engine. Do you have the usual 300D climate control?
For the brakes, as long as the main vac line is good going to the booster with no leaks, then you have power brakes, so keeping that is really about not creating holes in it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(04-19-2013, 08:44 AM)JB3 Another way to do is identify exactly what you need for engine shutoff, and 86 all the other lines, connections, and valves, really cleans up the engine. Do you have the usual 300D climate control?
For the brakes, as long as the main vac line is good going to the booster with no leaks, then you have power brakes, so keeping that is really about not creating holes in it.
I think this is my plan. I have standard climate control. if brakes and turning the car off is all I need I will go that route.
I think I wasn't clear, I know where the lines are but can't find a diagram cabin side of the firewall. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.
Plans coming up.
Clean engine bay
Manual steering
Ac delete
Goran pump
60 trim turbo
Fram filter (replacing dirty little spectre)
5 speed
Brake upgrades
Body work
Much more!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-19-2013, 09:25 AM #65(04-19-2013, 08:44 AM)JB3 Another way to do is identify exactly what you need for engine shutoff, and 86 all the other lines, connections, and valves, really cleans up the engine. Do you have the usual 300D climate control?
For the brakes, as long as the main vac line is good going to the booster with no leaks, then you have power brakes, so keeping that is really about not creating holes in it.
I think this is my plan. I have standard climate control. if brakes and turning the car off is all I need I will go that route.
I think I wasn't clear, I know where the lines are but can't find a diagram cabin side of the firewall. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.
Plans coming up.
Clean engine bay
Manual steering
Ac delete
Goran pump
60 trim turbo
Fram filter (replacing dirty little spectre)
5 speed
Brake upgrades
Body work
Much more!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(04-21-2013, 06:00 PM)MFSuper90 You'll need more than a 60 trim turbo if Dieselmeken does your pumpI'm hoping you are wrong, I'm getting 6mm with his alda setup. Not going tooo wild yet. I'll try and tune it and report.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-21-2013, 10:00 PM #67(04-21-2013, 06:00 PM)MFSuper90 You'll need more than a 60 trim turbo if Dieselmeken does your pumpI'm hoping you are wrong, I'm getting 6mm with his alda setup. Not going tooo wild yet. I'll try and tune it and report.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Should make that little garrett scream for mercy!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Ohh, I thought you were gonna go to like 7 or 7.5mm.
Should make that little garrett scream for mercy!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Also I started some crappy body work. First time in over ten years, I did it in high school auto shop. Can't be that hard.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-29-2013, 08:09 AM #69Well I did the vacuum simplify and sometimes its great other time vacuum must be going through the lock someway....car won't start or it will but barely moves. Vacuum will still get to pump even with key in on position. Lame.
Also I started some crappy body work. First time in over ten years, I did it in high school auto shop. Can't be that hard.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-29-2013, 09:41 AM #70Run a line from the shutoff to the cabin, and put a 5cc syringe on the end. Easy way to shutdown and it will keep people guessing. Also, tons of fun at police checkpoints.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-29-2013, 09:41 AM)Simpler=Better Run a line from the shutoff to the cabin, and put a 5cc syringe on the end. Easy way to shutdown and it will keep people guessing. Also, tons of fun at police checkpoints.
I've considered that. Simple I thought I remembered a post of a pic of your setup but can't find it. I remember seeing a different ignition setup and simplified climate control setup, both of which I'm interested in. Am I remembering right or was that someone else?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-29-2013, 10:27 PM #71(05-29-2013, 09:41 AM)Simpler=Better Run a line from the shutoff to the cabin, and put a 5cc syringe on the end. Easy way to shutdown and it will keep people guessing. Also, tons of fun at police checkpoints.
I've considered that. Simple I thought I remembered a post of a pic of your setup but can't find it. I remember seeing a different ignition setup and simplified climate control setup, both of which I'm interested in. Am I remembering right or was that someone else?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
I've neglected the basics and done much else in hopes to get my car less smokey. New injectors, rebuilt turbo, valve adjustment, still smokes like crazy.
I should check cam and IP timing. I know this I just suck and haven't yet.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-05-2013, 03:26 PM #7260 trim turbo installed today. Woot. Sounds good.
I've neglected the basics and done much else in hopes to get my car less smokey. New injectors, rebuilt turbo, valve adjustment, still smokes like crazy.
I should check cam and IP timing. I know this I just suck and haven't yet.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Also dug out the manual steering boxes. Drained them all and put fresh trans fluid in them. They all had a thick oil in them, didn't turn very easily. Now they move with ease. The online book I've seen says trans fluid so I'm cool with that. Might have been an egyptian thing or factory setup?
The ratios all seemed to be the same. The Boxes are all about the same just different part numbers.
Went with a new downpipe, original setup just at 3". The one on there (prior owner) was ghetto as sh!t. Held onto turbo with a muffler clamp, flex pipe connected it the the rear of the system. Ugly.
Oh and Goran's pump is in the mail. I need intercooler pipe routing ideas. I will do FMIC, Air to air. I've seen the setup done but no really detailed photos. Anybody got some? I will remove all my AC stuff and power steering stuff. Behind grill or under bumper whatever, I just don't see the room.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-08-2013, 06:43 PM #73Soo..playing with the car. I went crazy on the body. Pulled trim, bondo, primer. Lots to do with that still.... Going to keep a satin black, silver top, and paint the center caps silver. Before anybody says it looks bad, I know. I did it once 10 years ago, I am just playing with a car I know i will scrap the body of at some point. It looks really great from 30 feet away at night, when raining.
Also dug out the manual steering boxes. Drained them all and put fresh trans fluid in them. They all had a thick oil in them, didn't turn very easily. Now they move with ease. The online book I've seen says trans fluid so I'm cool with that. Might have been an egyptian thing or factory setup?
The ratios all seemed to be the same. The Boxes are all about the same just different part numbers.
Went with a new downpipe, original setup just at 3". The one on there (prior owner) was ghetto as sh!t. Held onto turbo with a muffler clamp, flex pipe connected it the the rear of the system. Ugly.
Oh and Goran's pump is in the mail. I need intercooler pipe routing ideas. I will do FMIC, Air to air. I've seen the setup done but no really detailed photos. Anybody got some? I will remove all my AC stuff and power steering stuff. Behind grill or under bumper whatever, I just don't see the room.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-12-2013, 11:27 AM #75Lol. The moto has always been "all go no show" for me. Changing the paint has been the first time I've been excited about its looks. Definitely a dirty sort of demon car. I hesitate to drop my 6yo daughter at school out of fear that other parents will get all judgmental and pretentious potentially deterring a potential birthday party invite. My kids love it though.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
A little tougher turning than I thought but overall I like it.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-15-2013, 10:59 PM #77Got the manual steering in with much fuss. Broke plenty o' stuff. Ended up replacing the centerlink and driver's tie rods at the same time. I much enjoy more engine bay space. If anybody needs a year old power steering belt let me know. My old gearbox garbage, lots of play.
A little tougher turning than I thought but overall I like it.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
do you know if the manual steering might fit a 115 chassis? If you have any left I could be interested in one if so!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
you need white front doors and big state trooper stars painted on it.
do you know if the manual steering might fit a 115 chassis? If you have any left I could be interested in one if so!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I googled a little on 123 115 interchangeability and I don't know. Some say yes some say no. I think more say no. Pm ya.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-19-2013, 07:51 PM #79Lol my 3 of my last 4 cars were squad cars (before I went diesel).
I googled a little on 123 115 interchangeability and I don't know. Some say yes some say no. I think more say no. Pm ya.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
System still had some pressure too so I was excited.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-21-2013, 06:45 PM #80Blah..decided to see if ac would work. Got belt on, blower fine through different modes, monovalve seems operational....compressor gets no power...testing...now fan no work. Fuse 8 quadruple checked. Fuuuu!!!
System still had some pressure too so I was excited.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
For the heat I bypassed the monovalve, and had a switch straight to the blower. It was on at full blast or off. The vents were wired partially open to my taste. AC was removed because that was dead when I got the car.
For the off switch I had a climate control vac valve under the hood, and a pushbutton in the cabin to trigger it.
For the ignition I cut out the MB ignition, and added a $15 generic key plus a "start" button to confuse people. The glow timed was left stock and ran great. The MB key unlocked the doors. The trunk was drilled out when I got it, so you had to stick your finger in to open it up(this was fine for security no one knew how to open it)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-22-2013, 02:18 PM #81First off, my car was a lost cause from rust and everything being worn out except the engine and the seats.
For the heat I bypassed the monovalve, and had a switch straight to the blower. It was on at full blast or off. The vents were wired partially open to my taste. AC was removed because that was dead when I got the car.
For the off switch I had a climate control vac valve under the hood, and a pushbutton in the cabin to trigger it.
For the ignition I cut out the MB ignition, and added a $15 generic key plus a "start" button to confuse people. The glow timed was left stock and ran great. The MB key unlocked the doors. The trunk was drilled out when I got it, so you had to stick your finger in to open it up(this was fine for security no one knew how to open it)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I wonder.....what needs yo be in the circuit it safe? I figure wired in a series switch --> evap freezer switch --> low pressure switch --> compressor? Something to make the right vents open. I'm sure I'm missing something. Any AC masterminds?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-22-2013, 02:56 PM #82I may end up doing something similar. Before I tear out the ac I want to see if it at least works.
I wonder.....what needs yo be in the circuit it safe? I figure wired in a series switch --> evap freezer switch --> low pressure switch --> compressor? Something to make the right vents open. I'm sure I'm missing something. Any AC masterminds?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-24-2013, 08:51 PM #83Well found another climate control unit in a yard today. Swapped in and fan blows again. I took apart the other unit and it was pretty corroded inside...now just gotta figure out why this compressor gets no current.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-24-2013, 09:55 PM #84I'm a jerk. Jeeze. Well I'll post a pic later but I've come to realize that I had the klima relay. That is before I cut the harness out. Lol. The engine bay sure is getting cleaner.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
06-26-2013, 04:39 PM #85Sometimes people tell me I'm a bit wild and need to chill. I'm all like "AC works in my car and I be chillin'"
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(06-26-2013, 04:39 PM)lgreeley83 Sometimes people tell me I'm a bit wild and need to chill. I'm all like "AC works in my car and I be chillin'"
I really need to fix my AC
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-27-2013, 08:01 AM #86(06-26-2013, 04:39 PM)lgreeley83 Sometimes people tell me I'm a bit wild and need to chill. I'm all like "AC works in my car and I be chillin'"
I really need to fix my AC
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Here is my destroyed differential. Fortunately had spare 2.88. Destroyed was the 3.07. I figure someday I will have another spare laying around and I will beat the crap out of it to see what it can take. This one i hadn't done any preventive maintenance on it so who knows how far gone it was. I like simple's idea of swapping in a whole different rear end. I broke this trying my first burnout...in the rain.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
07-02-2013, 01:29 PM #87http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thre...l#pid53197
Here is my destroyed differential. Fortunately had spare 2.88. Destroyed was the 3.07. I figure someday I will have another spare laying around and I will beat the crap out of it to see what it can take. This one i hadn't done any preventive maintenance on it so who knows how far gone it was. I like simple's idea of swapping in a whole different rear end. I broke this trying my first burnout...in the rain.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
So installed that manual steering box you sent me in my 123, I love it. Nice and tight and really not a bother in daily driving. Only thing is I completely botched clocking the steering wheel properly.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Lol, I can't believe you actually cooked a diff on one of these cars! Impressed.
So installed that manual steering box you sent me in my 123, I love it. Nice and tight and really not a bother in daily driving. Only thing is I completely botched clocking the steering wheel properly.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-07-2013, 08:23 AM)JB3 Lol, I can't believe you actually cooked a diff on one of these cars! Impressed.Yeah I don't remember reading about anybody else's destroyed dif.
So installed that manual steering box you sent me in my 123, I love it. Nice and tight and really not a bother in daily driving. Only thing is I completely botched clocking the steering wheel properly.
Lol my steering wheel is all crooked as well. Probably at 1 o'clock. Probably never get around to it.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
07-07-2013, 09:14 AM #89(07-07-2013, 08:23 AM)JB3 Lol, I can't believe you actually cooked a diff on one of these cars! Impressed.Yeah I don't remember reading about anybody else's destroyed dif.
So installed that manual steering box you sent me in my 123, I love it. Nice and tight and really not a bother in daily driving. Only thing is I completely botched clocking the steering wheel properly.
Lol my steering wheel is all crooked as well. Probably at 1 o'clock. Probably never get around to it.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
On a side note, I think I'm about ready to throw my Dieselmeken pump in. I removed an IP from the junkyard recently but am wondering.... Can I do the removal without taking the oil filter housing off? Is it possible? I really don't want to mess with the oil cooler lines. And am lazy.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
07-22-2013, 09:30 PM #90Well my diff should be in soon....
On a side note, I think I'm about ready to throw my Dieselmeken pump in. I removed an IP from the junkyard recently but am wondering.... Can I do the removal without taking the oil filter housing off? Is it possible? I really don't want to mess with the oil cooler lines. And am lazy.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
The bigger problem is dealing with the rearmost nut/bolt holding the pump to the block or whatever. That bugger is way up in there by the oil filter housing. I would recommend leaving that one off if it isn't already.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
It is possible. You need to take that plastic VCV off the back of the pump. Then, as you pull the pump rearwards you also tilt the back of it upwards and you can get it out no problemo.
The bigger problem is dealing with the rearmost nut/bolt holding the pump to the block or whatever. That bugger is way up in there by the oil filter housing. I would recommend leaving that one off if it isn't already.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
07-22-2013, 10:25 PM #92I remember that back bolt being the biggest pain. Can i take the two bolts for the bracket off of the block and remove bracket with pump?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-23-2013, 02:04 PM #94When you install the pump I'd put the bracket in, although it's probably just there as part of the typical merc over engineering. I lost mine when I pulled the motor so I guess I'll find out :p
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Also anybody got a pic of the oil line I'm supposed to block off when I convert to M pump?
I'm going to make sure I get the cam good and timed before installing the M pump but any other tips? I bought the splinned socket so I can drip time the pump already.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
07-23-2013, 02:45 PM #95I think I'm only worried about the removal of the bracket. I read in more place than 1 that they left the bracket off upon reinstallation of MW pump but that same bracket doesn't fit the M pump does it?
Also anybody got a pic of the oil line I'm supposed to block off when I convert to M pump?
I'm going to make sure I get the cam good and timed before installing the M pump but any other tips? I bought the splinned socket so I can drip time the pump already.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(07-23-2013, 02:45 PM)lgreeley83 I think I'm only worried about the removal of the bracket. I read in more place than 1 that they left the bracket off upon reinstallation of MW pump but that same bracket doesn't fit the M pump does it?
Also anybody got a pic of the oil line I'm supposed to block off when I convert to M pump?
I'm going to make sure I get the cam good and timed before installing the M pump but any other tips? I bought the splinned socket so I can drip time the pump already.
Spin the engine by hand so that it's on the compression stroke on #1, with the crank at your desired timing point (I like 26ish BTDC). That's your reference point.
Take the shutoff valve off the pack of the pump, and the VCV. Remove the oil line on the side of the pump-this is the one that you block off. It's black and around 1/4" diameter. pump comes right out.
Set the new pump's splined marks properly(its weird for one pump model), and install without bumping the shaft as you install it-that's the tricky part.
pull your delivery valves, bungee cord the rack to the "floored" position, and start drip timing that thing.
As you're referencing the crank, you can correct the cam timing later without affecting the pump timing. If you replace the chain you will have to retime
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-23-2013, 03:14 PM #96(07-23-2013, 02:45 PM)lgreeley83 I think I'm only worried about the removal of the bracket. I read in more place than 1 that they left the bracket off upon reinstallation of MW pump but that same bracket doesn't fit the M pump does it?
Also anybody got a pic of the oil line I'm supposed to block off when I convert to M pump?
I'm going to make sure I get the cam good and timed before installing the M pump but any other tips? I bought the splinned socket so I can drip time the pump already.
Spin the engine by hand so that it's on the compression stroke on #1, with the crank at your desired timing point (I like 26ish BTDC). That's your reference point.
Take the shutoff valve off the pack of the pump, and the VCV. Remove the oil line on the side of the pump-this is the one that you block off. It's black and around 1/4" diameter. pump comes right out.
Set the new pump's splined marks properly(its weird for one pump model), and install without bumping the shaft as you install it-that's the tricky part.
pull your delivery valves, bungee cord the rack to the "floored" position, and start drip timing that thing.
As you're referencing the crank, you can correct the cam timing later without affecting the pump timing. If you replace the chain you will have to retime
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-06-2013, 05:41 PM #97Finally picking up car, swapped in a 2:88 vs my 3:07. Well see how it feels.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
I know I'll do better on the highway as far as lowering revs and being that off the line not too different. I'd say go for 2:88. These my official testimonial.
I got my car back!!!!!!!! 200$ in labor and a month later. I'll do this crap myself next time.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-06-2013, 07:04 PM #98Not too different off the line. No speedometer or tach right now.
I know I'll do better on the highway as far as lowering revs and being that off the line not too different. I'd say go for 2:88. These my official testimonial.
I got my car back!!!!!!!! 200$ in labor and a month later. I'll do this crap myself next time.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
I've got
M fuel lines
M throttle linkage
IP gasket
Oil line block off bolt
IP wrench
Spined socket for dv removal
Drip tool
27mm for crankshaft turning
17mm crowfoot
I think I'm ready?
26 BTDC lobes up!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-07-2013, 11:06 PM #99Knowing well the back bolt on the IP was going to be a bastard I began that today with mentality that soon the pump comes off. That bolt sucks. I broke it loose but will try a ratcheting wrench.
I've got
M fuel lines
M throttle linkage
IP gasket
Oil line block off bolt
IP wrench
Spined socket for dv removal
Drip tool
27mm for crankshaft turning
17mm crowfoot
I think I'm ready?
26 BTDC lobes up!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Bolt?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-08-2013, 12:37 PM #100So before i attempt removal I am concerned with clearance. I don't have a standard turbo pump on my car right now. There is a bolt sticking out of the back cover. Can I remove that along with the shutoff valve? What is it? I think with it there I probably don't have clearance to remove pump with oil filter housing on.
Bolt?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
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