euro 300d performance project
euro 300d performance project
I want Myna to hype up the pump first. The $2500 shouldn't be a problem.
Next would be an intercooler. I guess I shop around and find an intercooler that will fit in front of the radiator. The condenser for the ac will be removed. Any suggestions for what to do or where to look.
Exhaust : 3 inches, and dump before the rear passenger wheel
I know everyone says that 14 psi is about the max that the engine can handle. Any ways to increase that? I read once that the head gasket is a weak link for body pressure.
One or two inch drop. I haven't seen any American companies that all drop springs for 123s. Any sources?
I've read about the two stage injectors. I'm not concerned about noise,I actually enjoy the clatter of a diesel. Are there any other injectors to help increase power.
Pictures to come,any info or suggestions or links to threads that I may have missed would be appreciated.
I have an 1984 euro 300d, manual trans and m pump. Its my daily driver now,and It's in good shape. I will be scraping the n/ a engine for a turbo 617.I have been reading for a couple months, but I haven't seen much on what I plan on doing with the car. i waited on posting this because I didn't want to just ask questions without doing research first.
I want Myna to hype up the pump first. The $2500 shouldn't be a problem.
Next would be an intercooler. I guess I shop around and find an intercooler that will fit in front of the radiator. The condenser for the ac will be removed. Any suggestions for what to do or where to look.
Exhaust : 3 inches, and dump before the rear passenger wheel
I know everyone says that 14 psi is about the max that the engine can handle. Any ways to increase that? I read once that the head gasket is a weak link for body pressure.
One or two inch drop. I haven't seen any American companies that all drop springs for 123s. Any sources?
I've read about the two stage injectors. I'm not concerned about noise,I actually enjoy the clatter of a diesel. Are there any other injectors to help increase power.
Pictures to come,any info or suggestions or links to threads that I may have missed would be appreciated.
As for turbo boost you really dont want more than the turbo can put out. Once you get a myna put (which will increase my jealousy) a bigger turbo that is better matched with the upgrades. You can cruz the Forum for which turbo is best.
2 Stage injectors??? im not familiar with those.
well cant wait for pics or your ride.
Alohas
Gill P
Im from the big island and Im jealous of your euro 300D. I got 2 126 SD's and one !123 79' 300D. Im putting my 300D on a diet and putting in a turbo 617 and a 4 speed.
As for turbo boost you really dont want more than the turbo can put out. Once you get a myna put (which will increase my jealousy) a bigger turbo that is better matched with the upgrades. You can cruz the Forum for which turbo is best.
2 Stage injectors??? im not familiar with those.
well cant wait for pics or your ride.
Alohas
Gill P
Again, no experience but reading up on the 2 stage VW injectors the people who swapped to them found a smoother idle and increased fuel economy, but a slight drop in power.
Properly balanced stock injectors with new nozzles seem to be the proven best right now. Contact member Greazzer he's our injector guy.
For more fuel contact Dieselmenken, Tomnik, or OM616.
As for dropping, the most common route is to cut the springs a coil or two, or buying custom springs.
If you have time on your hands, block off the vacuum pump, get a non EGR exhaust manifold, and a NA intake manifold. Ream the prechambers. If you have time and money pull the head and port it, and while the head's off do the timing chain guides, tensioner, and rails.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-22-2012, 08:34 AM #3I have never blown up a 617, but from what I've read the rods like ot bend above 2bar, and if you dump too much fuel without boost you can break stuff as well.
Again, no experience but reading up on the 2 stage VW injectors the people who swapped to them found a smoother idle and increased fuel economy, but a slight drop in power.
Properly balanced stock injectors with new nozzles seem to be the proven best right now. Contact member Greazzer he's our injector guy.
For more fuel contact Dieselmenken, Tomnik, or OM616.
As for dropping, the most common route is to cut the springs a coil or two, or buying custom springs.
If you have time on your hands, block off the vacuum pump, get a non EGR exhaust manifold, and a NA intake manifold. Ream the prechambers. If you have time and money pull the head and port it, and while the head's off do the timing chain guides, tensioner, and rails.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I am buying on Friday a 300D NA with the coveted five-speed Getrag 717.400, a 1983-4 (hybrid 240D Body with 300D 1984 engine). How do you like the non-turbo ? I plan on deleting the PS and Water Pumps ASAP. Don't mean to hi-jack your thread. I will start one shortly. Thanks.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Welcome aboard PoleShady,
I am buying on Friday a 300D NA with the coveted five-speed Getrag 717.400, a 1983-4 (hybrid 240D Body with 300D 1984 engine). How do you like the non-turbo ? I plan on deleting the PS and Water Pumps ASAP. Don't mean to hi-jack your thread. I will start one shortly. Thanks.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I work for fried ride Hi (http://www.friedridehi.com) they sell conversion kits. I just made an electronic conversion kit that he has started selling, if you are interested in the WVO scene.
The car is just sitting at home right now, when i get back ill dive right into it. I think i have some pictures ill put up, but Ill take more in December.
How available are parts cars on the big island? We tend to get flooded, then hit dry spells on oahu. I have been keeping my eye out for a new turbo engine..
(10-21-2012, 10:40 PM)gill4321 Im from the big island and Im jealous of your euro 300D. I got 2 126 SD's and one !123 79' 300D. Im putting my 300D on a diet and putting in a turbo 617 and a 4 speed.
As for turbo boost you really dont want more than the turbo can put out. Once you get a myna put (which will increase my jealousy) a bigger turbo that is better matched with the upgrades. You can cruz the Forum for which turbo is best.
2 Stage injectors??? im not familiar with those.
well cant wait for pics or your ride.
Alohas
Gill P
(10-22-2012, 08:34 AM)Simpler=Better I have never blown up a 617, but from what I've read the rods like ot bend above 2bar, and if you dump too much fuel without boost you can break stuff as well.
Again, no experience but reading up on the 2 stage VW injectors the people who swapped to them found a smoother idle and increased fuel economy, but a slight drop in power.
Properly balanced stock injectors with new nozzles seem to be the proven best right now. Contact member Greazzer he's our injector guy.
For more fuel contact Dieselmenken, Tomnik, or OM616.
As for dropping, the most common route is to cut the springs a coil or two, or buying custom springs.
If you have time on your hands, block off the vacuum pump, get a non EGR exhaust manifold, and a NA intake manifold. Ream the prechambers. If you have time and money pull the head and port it, and while the head's off do the timing chain guides, tensioner, and rails.
so 2 bar is your recommended max because of the rods? why do most say 1? what is their limiting factor?
Ill probably cut them first and see how they feel. Shipping to hawaii kills it, really makes things get expensive fast.
I will have plenty of time. I have already reamed the injectors, adjusted valves, brakes all the way around. and a few other things to get it running smoother. Ill probably have the engine on a stand for a while before the swap to do the timing chain, are there any threads to porting the heads and manifolds that you could direct me to?
Thanks again for all the other information
(10-22-2012, 10:45 AM)Greazzer Welcome aboard PoleShady,
I am buying on Friday a 300D NA with the coveted five-speed Getrag 717.400, a 1983-4 (hybrid 240D Body with 300D 1984 engine). How do you like the non-turbo ? I plan on deleting the PS and Water Pumps ASAP. Don't mean to hi-jack your thread. I will start one shortly. Thanks.
5 speed, lucky.
The non turbo is ok, i bought it in AZ where it was at 7,000 feet, It definetly runs smoother and is more powerful at SL though.
Do you have links to threads to delete the PS and waterpump?
By all means hi-jack it, more information/ pictures cant hurt.
The first picture is when i just got it back to hawaii, the second is after buffing it taking off the old tint and some other things. I dont have any pictures of the interior, but it is clean, cloth interior, someone reupholstered it too
![[Image: IMG_0769.jpg]](http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg168/borristheblade_39/IMG_0769.jpg)
<a
![[Image: IMAG0072.jpg]](http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg168/borristheblade_39/IMAG0072.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0835.jpg]](http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg168/borristheblade_39/IMG_0835.jpg)
Sorry for the late reply, school has been keeping me busy(Mechanincal Engineering), But I will be moving back to Hawaii in december when I graduate.
I work for fried ride Hi (http://www.friedridehi.com) they sell conversion kits. I just made an electronic conversion kit that he has started selling, if you are interested in the WVO scene.
The car is just sitting at home right now, when i get back ill dive right into it. I think i have some pictures ill put up, but Ill take more in December.
How available are parts cars on the big island? We tend to get flooded, then hit dry spells on oahu. I have been keeping my eye out for a new turbo engine..
(10-21-2012, 10:40 PM)gill4321 Im from the big island and Im jealous of your euro 300D. I got 2 126 SD's and one !123 79' 300D. Im putting my 300D on a diet and putting in a turbo 617 and a 4 speed.
As for turbo boost you really dont want more than the turbo can put out. Once you get a myna put (which will increase my jealousy) a bigger turbo that is better matched with the upgrades. You can cruz the Forum for which turbo is best.
2 Stage injectors??? im not familiar with those.
well cant wait for pics or your ride.
Alohas
Gill P
(10-22-2012, 08:34 AM)Simpler=Better I have never blown up a 617, but from what I've read the rods like ot bend above 2bar, and if you dump too much fuel without boost you can break stuff as well.
Again, no experience but reading up on the 2 stage VW injectors the people who swapped to them found a smoother idle and increased fuel economy, but a slight drop in power.
Properly balanced stock injectors with new nozzles seem to be the proven best right now. Contact member Greazzer he's our injector guy.
For more fuel contact Dieselmenken, Tomnik, or OM616.
As for dropping, the most common route is to cut the springs a coil or two, or buying custom springs.
If you have time on your hands, block off the vacuum pump, get a non EGR exhaust manifold, and a NA intake manifold. Ream the prechambers. If you have time and money pull the head and port it, and while the head's off do the timing chain guides, tensioner, and rails.
so 2 bar is your recommended max because of the rods? why do most say 1? what is their limiting factor?
Ill probably cut them first and see how they feel. Shipping to hawaii kills it, really makes things get expensive fast.
I will have plenty of time. I have already reamed the injectors, adjusted valves, brakes all the way around. and a few other things to get it running smoother. Ill probably have the engine on a stand for a while before the swap to do the timing chain, are there any threads to porting the heads and manifolds that you could direct me to?
Thanks again for all the other information
(10-22-2012, 10:45 AM)Greazzer Welcome aboard PoleShady,
I am buying on Friday a 300D NA with the coveted five-speed Getrag 717.400, a 1983-4 (hybrid 240D Body with 300D 1984 engine). How do you like the non-turbo ? I plan on deleting the PS and Water Pumps ASAP. Don't mean to hi-jack your thread. I will start one shortly. Thanks.
5 speed, lucky.
The non turbo is ok, i bought it in AZ where it was at 7,000 feet, It definetly runs smoother and is more powerful at SL though.
Do you have links to threads to delete the PS and waterpump?
By all means hi-jack it, more information/ pictures cant hurt.
The first picture is when i just got it back to hawaii, the second is after buffing it taking off the old tint and some other things. I dont have any pictures of the interior, but it is clean, cloth interior, someone reupholstered it too
<a
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-14-2012, 02:22 AM #6One sweet ride!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Good luck on the car --
I do have some pictures of the mechanical steering box, but no pictures of it installed other than it bolted up. The steering shaft is actually 47mm longer for the mechanical box so I am on the hunt for that. However, my 300D NA is actually headed off to the scrapyard shortly, probably this weekend. The PO did mention the word "rust" in his advertisement and he did comment that he could source and sell someone a donor car. There was other commentary about how the rockers, et cet were just fine. On the day of the sale, he commented that the jack points and some other parts were actually now rusty. I flew from S.C. to INDIANA to get the car, but he did look me square in the eye and said how mechanically sound the car was. From that description, I was supposed to glean and understand that the car was a total rust bucket and not safe to drive and not able to be fixed, or at least that is what a handful of contributors have posted on the forum. So, once the passenger seat was installed and fell and dropped 6" thru the floor, and the seat belt bolts could barely hold a cat in place, it's time to scrap her. And yes, I bought the car without a passenger seat and now I can see a very good reason why.
As for the EWP, same deal. I am put on hold since my project car "The Phoenix Project" has stalled and my current car and its engine is not worthy of the investment right now. It was represented to me that the engine had a rebuild about 65K miles ago. I did a compression test a few days ago where I got range in the ballpark of 305-330. I then had forum members attack me and claim that I am a dumbo (which is true) and basically I needed to do another compression test. Following the FSM procedures, I got my nephew who is also an engineer student at the REAL USC -- University of South Carolina and a Level III Mechanic for SC DOT currently which is the highest one can be in the Palmetto State. I actually had another forum member attack the Palmetto State. Because he is a professional mechanic, I assumed he would be capable of the task. He used a different gauge since that was suggested to. His results were not as generous as mine. Only one cylinder above 300. So, after 2 compression readings by 2 different people using 2 different gauages, I suspect my initial findings are correct.
So, sorry no help on the 300NA right now and you did give me permission to semi-hi jack your thread. I know certain folks might jump in and tell me how wrong I am to post the facts and being accurate is. It is what it is.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Howdy,
Good luck on the car --
I do have some pictures of the mechanical steering box, but no pictures of it installed other than it bolted up. The steering shaft is actually 47mm longer for the mechanical box so I am on the hunt for that. However, my 300D NA is actually headed off to the scrapyard shortly, probably this weekend. The PO did mention the word "rust" in his advertisement and he did comment that he could source and sell someone a donor car. There was other commentary about how the rockers, et cet were just fine. On the day of the sale, he commented that the jack points and some other parts were actually now rusty. I flew from S.C. to INDIANA to get the car, but he did look me square in the eye and said how mechanically sound the car was. From that description, I was supposed to glean and understand that the car was a total rust bucket and not safe to drive and not able to be fixed, or at least that is what a handful of contributors have posted on the forum. So, once the passenger seat was installed and fell and dropped 6" thru the floor, and the seat belt bolts could barely hold a cat in place, it's time to scrap her. And yes, I bought the car without a passenger seat and now I can see a very good reason why.
As for the EWP, same deal. I am put on hold since my project car "The Phoenix Project" has stalled and my current car and its engine is not worthy of the investment right now. It was represented to me that the engine had a rebuild about 65K miles ago. I did a compression test a few days ago where I got range in the ballpark of 305-330. I then had forum members attack me and claim that I am a dumbo (which is true) and basically I needed to do another compression test. Following the FSM procedures, I got my nephew who is also an engineer student at the REAL USC -- University of South Carolina and a Level III Mechanic for SC DOT currently which is the highest one can be in the Palmetto State. I actually had another forum member attack the Palmetto State. Because he is a professional mechanic, I assumed he would be capable of the task. He used a different gauge since that was suggested to. His results were not as generous as mine. Only one cylinder above 300. So, after 2 compression readings by 2 different people using 2 different gauages, I suspect my initial findings are correct.
So, sorry no help on the 300NA right now and you did give me permission to semi-hi jack your thread. I know certain folks might jump in and tell me how wrong I am to post the facts and being accurate is. It is what it is.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
As for most people saying 1 bar, that's about the limit of the stock turbo. If you swap in a larger modern turbo you should be fine to 2bar-I ran around at 18psi with my 2056V and it was fine.
For a little extra cheap power you can spray water/methanol-A budget system can be made for under $200 ($100 pump, $20 nozzle, $50 for connectors, tubing, wiring, tank, etc.)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-14-2012, 09:43 AM #8I wan tot clarify on the head work-if you're already pulling the head go for it, otherwise don't bother. It's around $400 to rework the head (gaskets, bolts, seals, guides, shop to check the flatness).
As for most people saying 1 bar, that's about the limit of the stock turbo. If you swap in a larger modern turbo you should be fine to 2bar-I ran around at 18psi with my 2056V and it was fine.
For a little extra cheap power you can spray water/methanol-A budget system can be made for under $200 ($100 pump, $20 nozzle, $50 for connectors, tubing, wiring, tank, etc.)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I did a small vacationtrip to Cyprus with a superpump in my luggage,
Fitted it to the engine, fired up with good result.
Maybee next vacation will bee Hawaii when you have put turbo on it?
dieselmeken
11-14-2012, 01:31 PM #9I did see a M-pump in your 617 engine, thats nice.
I did a small vacationtrip to Cyprus with a superpump in my luggage,
Fitted it to the engine, fired up with good result.
Maybee next vacation will bee Hawaii when you have put turbo on it?
Ill keep reading about turbo swaps, and intercoolers. I just want a standard turbo, i think a variable geometry turbo is a little much for my first attempt. But it might be worth a try. What intake are you using on yours?
(11-14-2012, 01:31 PM)dieselmeken I did see a M-pump in your 617 engine, thats nice.From what research I did, my car first came to the US in 1995, but the previous owner did away with the cool euro lights and a few other things. It has the pnuematic head light leveler control in the dash but its no use to me now..
I did a small vacationtrip to Cyprus with a superpump in my luggage,
Fitted it to the engine, fired up with good result.
Maybee next vacation will bee Hawaii when you have put turbo on it?
Yeah its the m-pump, its the main reason why im keeping this one. I usually buy, clan them up, fix problems, and sell them for a little extra spending money while im in school.
ive read a little bit about installing the mpump on engines with the MW pump, and people have talked about supplying the IP with oil becuase they are different in some way, but havent gotten a definitive answer. Would you enlighten me?
Thanks, ill have to look into the water/meth injection. Im not looking for a speed demon, but I do want to give those hondas and ricers a run for their money.
Ill keep reading about turbo swaps, and intercoolers. I just want a standard turbo, i think a variable geometry turbo is a little much for my first attempt. But it might be worth a try. What intake are you using on yours?
(11-14-2012, 01:31 PM)dieselmeken I did see a M-pump in your 617 engine, thats nice.From what research I did, my car first came to the US in 1995, but the previous owner did away with the cool euro lights and a few other things. It has the pnuematic head light leveler control in the dash but its no use to me now..
I did a small vacationtrip to Cyprus with a superpump in my luggage,
Fitted it to the engine, fired up with good result.
Maybee next vacation will bee Hawaii when you have put turbo on it?
Yeah its the m-pump, its the main reason why im keeping this one. I usually buy, clan them up, fix problems, and sell them for a little extra spending money while im in school.
ive read a little bit about installing the mpump on engines with the MW pump, and people have talked about supplying the IP with oil becuase they are different in some way, but havent gotten a definitive answer. Would you enlighten me?
The M pump gets it's oil from the cam drive shaft, the MW gets it's oil from an external oil line that feeds to the side of the pump
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-14-2012, 09:15 PM #11I'm running a modified & ported stock turbo manifold-I had it and I was broke when I swapped turbos. Check out the build thread in my signature. Definitely not the best flowing. You can use the legendary W115 intake(last I saw they were going for $165+) or you can run the w123 NA intake IF you drop the turbo down using an adapter plate.
The M pump gets it's oil from the cam drive shaft, the MW gets it's oil from an external oil line that feeds to the side of the pump
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
life happens and money is tight so no super pump for me yet, just tuning exhaust injectors and so on.
heres the engine i think its off an 84 300d, the guy i got it from wasnt sure what year, but it has things on it ive never seen or noticed on other cars, like the extra port and block on the turbo inlet side.
and the box between the injection pump and the block.
and the vacuum hose (i think) going to the injection pump.
can i work around these things?
and the turbo looks like it might have eaten something during its life, some little nicks on the leading edges of the comp wheel. but there doesnt seem to be any play, should i run it hard as is? or jut buy a new turbo, or even bother to rebuild it, its almost cheaper to buy a hx35 or something?
i finally got my project started, got an engine today.
life happens and money is tight so no super pump for me yet, just tuning exhaust injectors and so on.
heres the engine i think its off an 84 300d, the guy i got it from wasnt sure what year, but it has things on it ive never seen or noticed on other cars, like the extra port and block on the turbo inlet side.
and the box between the injection pump and the block.
and the vacuum hose (i think) going to the injection pump.
can i work around these things?
and the turbo looks like it might have eaten something during its life, some little nicks on the leading edges of the comp wheel. but there doesnt seem to be any play, should i run it hard as is? or jut buy a new turbo, or even bother to rebuild it, its almost cheaper to buy a hx35 or something?
That 'vacumm line' is an oil line for crankcase oil to the pump.
I would say a nicked up turbo impeller is not good. But you can run it depending on budget. Them things spin at like 100,000rpm so a little unbalanced does quite the harm.
If you're going for a powered up 617 a 'super pump' will free you of that shitty emissions thinger.
And a big turbo will be in order anyway so that'll take care or that too.
In the meantime you can make a block off plate and rtv it in place to block any egr. Exhaust gas re-circulation, that corrugated pipe from the exhaust mani to the intake mani can use a piece of 1/8in steel by the intake side.
Keep searching and reading here and you'll see all what can be done and what's feasible.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
That crazy block thing between the pump and block is some dumb emissions crap, does nothing.
That 'vacumm line' is an oil line for crankcase oil to the pump.
I would say a nicked up turbo impeller is not good. But you can run it depending on budget. Them things spin at like 100,000rpm so a little unbalanced does quite the harm.
If you're going for a powered up 617 a 'super pump' will free you of that shitty emissions thinger.
And a big turbo will be in order anyway so that'll take care or that too.
In the meantime you can make a block off plate and rtv it in place to block any egr. Exhaust gas re-circulation, that corrugated pipe from the exhaust mani to the intake mani can use a piece of 1/8in steel by the intake side.
Keep searching and reading here and you'll see all what can be done and what's feasible.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
The box on the top of the turbo to the wategate sounds like the alda. You can surely read more on that part here and there. Mine is deleted.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I that box just has a wire coming off of it if I recall. You can't really remove the box unless you had a plate to cover the void.
The box on the top of the turbo to the wategate sounds like the alda. You can surely read more on that part here and there. Mine is deleted.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-19-2013, 09:07 PM #16A modern-designed turbo will be more efficient, and can give you more boost. A variable vane turbo can be setup to spool really fast. I'd ask around to see what people recommend.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Get something like a he221, hx25, hx27, hx30, or even a BW s100 or s200. HX35 will be too big unless you get dieselmeken to make you a pump soon.
DieselBoy ran a hy35 on his and didn't seem to mind it too much even with a stock pump.
I am getting ready to put a hx30 on mine, if it works well i will let you know!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
If that turbo's comp wheel is knicked, I'd throw it over the hill. (not literally, just sell it)
Get something like a he221, hx25, hx27, hx30, or even a BW s100 or s200. HX35 will be too big unless you get dieselmeken to make you a pump soon.
DieselBoy ran a hy35 on his and didn't seem to mind it too much even with a stock pump.
I am getting ready to put a hx30 on mine, if it works well i will let you know!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-20-2013, 10:34 AM)MFSuper90 If that turbo's comp wheel is knicked, I'd throw it over the hill. (not literally, just sell it)
Get something like a he221, hx25, hx27, hx30, or even a BW s100 or s200. HX35 will be too big unless you get dieselmeken to make you a pump soon.
DieselBoy ran a hy35 on his and didn't seem to mind it too much even with a stock pump.
I am getting ready to put a hx30 on mine, if it works well i will let you know!
thanks ill look into those, and pricing and all that.
ill keep any eye out to see how your hx30 works
(05-20-2013, 10:34 AM)MFSuper90 If that turbo's comp wheel is knicked, I'd throw it over the hill. (not literally, just sell it)
Get something like a he221, hx25, hx27, hx30, or even a BW s100 or s200. HX35 will be too big unless you get dieselmeken to make you a pump soon.
DieselBoy ran a hy35 on his and didn't seem to mind it too much even with a stock pump.
I am getting ready to put a hx30 on mine, if it works well i will let you know!
also what did you pay for you hx30, and where did you get it? ive seen some in ebay for less than $300, but then some are quite a bit more, is there something missing from the cheapo ones that im not seeing?
(05-20-2013, 10:34 AM)MFSuper90 If that turbo's comp wheel is knicked, I'd throw it over the hill. (not literally, just sell it)
Get something like a he221, hx25, hx27, hx30, or even a BW s100 or s200. HX35 will be too big unless you get dieselmeken to make you a pump soon.
DieselBoy ran a hy35 on his and didn't seem to mind it too much even with a stock pump.
I am getting ready to put a hx30 on mine, if it works well i will let you know!
thanks ill look into those, and pricing and all that.
ill keep any eye out to see how your hx30 works
(05-20-2013, 10:34 AM)MFSuper90 If that turbo's comp wheel is knicked, I'd throw it over the hill. (not literally, just sell it)
Get something like a he221, hx25, hx27, hx30, or even a BW s100 or s200. HX35 will be too big unless you get dieselmeken to make you a pump soon.
DieselBoy ran a hy35 on his and didn't seem to mind it too much even with a stock pump.
I am getting ready to put a hx30 on mine, if it works well i will let you know!
also what did you pay for you hx30, and where did you get it? ive seen some in ebay for less than $300, but then some are quite a bit more, is there something missing from the cheapo ones that im not seeing?
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-20-2013, 07:03 PM)MFSuper90 Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
You're from PA aren't you?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-21-2013, 08:55 AM #20(05-20-2013, 07:03 PM)MFSuper90 Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
You're from PA aren't you?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-21-2013, 08:55 AM)Simpler=BetterSE Ohio. 2-3 hours from PA(05-20-2013, 07:03 PM)MFSuper90 Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
You're from PA aren't you?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-21-2013, 08:55 AM)Simpler=BetterSE Ohio. 2-3 hours from PA(05-20-2013, 07:03 PM)MFSuper90 Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
You're from PA aren't you?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-21-2013, 11:32 AM)MFSuper90(05-21-2013, 08:55 AM)Simpler=BetterSE Ohio. 2-3 hours from PA(05-20-2013, 07:03 PM)MFSuper90 Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
You're from PA aren't you?
The accent is very similar then
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-21-2013, 11:44 AM #22(05-21-2013, 11:32 AM)MFSuper90(05-21-2013, 08:55 AM)Simpler=BetterSE Ohio. 2-3 hours from PA(05-20-2013, 07:03 PM)MFSuper90 Bought mine off of 4btswaps.com, for $275. (too much considering the guy had no idea what radial play was) I had to rebuild it, which is only about $50 and easy installation.
Winmutt just sold his for around $300 and it didn't need rebuilt.
You just have to be careful that the cheapo ones are actual holsets and not chinese knockoffs. If they are genuine holsets and they are really cheap, they probably need rebuilt, which is no big deal as long as the bearing bore and the shaft don't need machined.
You're from PA aren't you?
The accent is very similar then
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-21-2013, 11:44 AM)Simpler=Better(05-21-2013, 11:32 AM)MFSuper90(05-21-2013, 08:55 AM)Simpler=Better You're from PA aren't you?SE Ohio. 2-3 hours from PA
The accent is very similar then
You can't even hear me!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-21-2013, 11:44 AM)Simpler=Better(05-21-2013, 11:32 AM)MFSuper90(05-21-2013, 08:55 AM)Simpler=Better You're from PA aren't you?SE Ohio. 2-3 hours from PA
The accent is very similar then
You can't even hear me!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
got the replacement impeller from mercedes source. and it has a bunch of little balls on the blades.. it kinda resembles slag from welding, so they are sending me a new one.
[attachment=6494]
i had to do lower ball joints, upper control arms tie rods, rented a press from checkers. i screwed up one new ball joint so it ended up taking 3 to get the job done. i used a 4 pound sledge hammer and a pole welded to a 45lb plate.
afterwards i took it to firestone to get it aligned, those jackasses! took them over night to do it. didnt get it back till noon today and it still pulls to the right, i guess im going back tomorrow to complain or get my money back. they also refused to balance the tires, the inside edges are worn cause the alignment was out of whack before, but tread is still there, the tires still have 8 or 10 thousand miles left on them.
also my brother in law, bought back my old wagon from the guy i sold it to, it was leaking diesel out of the drain plug in the tank, couldnt find a big enough allen wrench, so i rummaged through the old nuts and bolts and found a nut from yesterdays ball joint job that fit in the drain, welded another nut to it, and bam! made a free tool
also, got the timing chain tensioner and rails, ill see how motivated i am to change the rails/guides, from what ive seen it looks like a pain. is it worth all the work?
i finally got most of my parts in. bust some issues already.
got the replacement impeller from mercedes source. and it has a bunch of little balls on the blades.. it kinda resembles slag from welding, so they are sending me a new one.
[attachment=6494]
i had to do lower ball joints, upper control arms tie rods, rented a press from checkers. i screwed up one new ball joint so it ended up taking 3 to get the job done. i used a 4 pound sledge hammer and a pole welded to a 45lb plate.
afterwards i took it to firestone to get it aligned, those jackasses! took them over night to do it. didnt get it back till noon today and it still pulls to the right, i guess im going back tomorrow to complain or get my money back. they also refused to balance the tires, the inside edges are worn cause the alignment was out of whack before, but tread is still there, the tires still have 8 or 10 thousand miles left on them.
also my brother in law, bought back my old wagon from the guy i sold it to, it was leaking diesel out of the drain plug in the tank, couldnt find a big enough allen wrench, so i rummaged through the old nuts and bolts and found a nut from yesterdays ball joint job that fit in the drain, welded another nut to it, and bam! made a free tool
also, got the timing chain tensioner and rails, ill see how motivated i am to change the rails/guides, from what ive seen it looks like a pain. is it worth all the work?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-30-2013, 08:40 AM #25Check your chain stretch, and visually inspect the tensioner rail if you can shine a light down in there. At least I would throw a new spring into the chain tensioner (it's cheap and fairly easy).
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-30-2013, 08:40 AM)Simpler=Better Check your chain stretch, and visually inspect the tensioner rail if you can shine a light down in there. At least I would throw a new spring into the chain tensioner (it's cheap and fairly easy).
well, my tensioner didnt come with a spring so, i guess im SOL on that one. i had to special order it through a mercedes shop.
And i cant really check the stretch because the pointer that shows the degrees of the engine is missing. someone took it off, you can see in the grease where it was, but its long gone now..
(05-30-2013, 08:40 AM)Simpler=Better Check your chain stretch, and visually inspect the tensioner rail if you can shine a light down in there. At least I would throw a new spring into the chain tensioner (it's cheap and fairly easy).
well, my tensioner didnt come with a spring so, i guess im SOL on that one. i had to special order it through a mercedes shop.
And i cant really check the stretch because the pointer that shows the degrees of the engine is missing. someone took it off, you can see in the grease where it was, but its long gone now..
is this a good thread?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...sults.html
I dont really have time to read this shit. My apologies for any disinformation.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I believe the procedure for checking chain stretch can use some alignment marks on the cam.
is this a good thread?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...sults.html
I dont really have time to read this shit. My apologies for any disinformation.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
does anyone know where to get one of those chain press tools?
also how do you keep the master link from coming off when you run it through the engine and seperating? it doesnt have any chanels in it to put an e clip or anything like that.
Ive read that one still need the crank marker to compare the degrees.
does anyone know where to get one of those chain press tools?
also how do you keep the master link from coming off when you run it through the engine and seperating? it doesnt have any chanels in it to put an e clip or anything like that.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-30-2013, 07:14 PM #29Guys on peachparts will rent you out the official MB chain tool. It's like $25 + shipping + deposit
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
i replaced the nozzles today and pop tested them. but now none of the nozzles are centered in the injector housing. i dont know what the hell i did, i cant imagine that is how they are supposed to be. i didnt really pay attention to that before i took them apart
thanks, ill try find one locally, i doubt i will though
i replaced the nozzles today and pop tested them. but now none of the nozzles are centered in the injector housing. i dont know what the hell i did, i cant imagine that is how they are supposed to be. i didnt really pay attention to that before i took them apart
then i got bored and had some time on my hands and thought it would be a good idea to clean the valve cover one thing lead to another, sanding down to 600 grip was boring so i ended up brushing it witha brass wire wheel on a drill, it looks kinda cool.
today i borrowed that little piece of metal that point to the degrees on the crank from a friends engine. and make a copy of it. looks ugly but should do the trick.
then i got bored and had some time on my hands and thought it would be a good idea to clean the valve cover one thing lead to another, sanding down to 600 grip was boring so i ended up brushing it witha brass wire wheel on a drill, it looks kinda cool.
also i took off the water pump, it was kinda rusty, but its pretty hard to turn, it turns smooth but there is quite a bit of drag, i cant imagine its supposed to be like that.
made an egr block off plate and welded the exhaust manifold closed with a couple thick washers.
also i took off the water pump, it was kinda rusty, but its pretty hard to turn, it turns smooth but there is quite a bit of drag, i cant imagine its supposed to be like that.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-15-2013, 08:09 AM #38Looking good!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
so i will have to fly back to oahu some weekend in the future and finish it.
does anyone know where to buy just the master link for the timing chain? ive looked (briefly) an cant find one.
got the engine in this weekend, but no start, it would run at full throttle when being towed by another car. i figured out that i set it off by 5 degrees, they timing marks are missleading ( i just wasnt paying attention when i did it) set it between the 'T|0' mark and the 10 BTDC
so i will have to fly back to oahu some weekend in the future and finish it.
does anyone know where to buy just the master link for the timing chain? ive looked (briefly) an cant find one.
LOL ... I don't think I have seen an oval injector base until now. I will double check some injectors to make sure that's not normal. You must have some carbon buildup in the inside of the injector body for the nozzle to be cock-eyed.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
LOL ... I don't think I have seen an oval injector base until now. I will double check some injectors to make sure that's not normal. You must have some carbon buildup in the inside of the injector body for the nozzle to be cock-eyed.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(07-31-2013, 09:34 AM)waz Try AutohausAZ for the master link.
Looks like $3 plus shipping.
Thanks for finding that, i bought 2 just in case
when i took them out a few days ago, i took out the shims i put in, so i need to re pop test them some time. But to get them centered i unscrewed them, rotated the nozzle screwed them down and repeated untill they got as centered they would get.
(07-31-2013, 09:34 AM)waz Try AutohausAZ for the master link.
Looks like $3 plus shipping.
Thanks for finding that, i bought 2 just in case
Ran good, it was nice to hear the turbo whistling away, ill try to make an exhaust for it tomorrow before i ship it on tuesday.
got it started today and drove around a bit. I finally figured out that i had the cam off by 180 degrees, took a few days to figure it out but oh well.
Ran good, it was nice to hear the turbo whistling away, ill try to make an exhaust for it tomorrow before i ship it on tuesday.
i pulled into costco to get stuff and noticed a trail of oil and a huge puddle under my car. the oil pressure line busted, and pissed oil everywhere. It was about a gallon low, so i filled it up drove, refilled, drove refilled etc till i got home.
I bought 3 gallons of oil at costco. I traced it back to where the stream started, it was about 30 seconds worth of driving. I got super lucky that I stopped when I did.
i almost undid this entire engine swap,
i pulled into costco to get stuff and noticed a trail of oil and a huge puddle under my car. the oil pressure line busted, and pissed oil everywhere. It was about a gallon low, so i filled it up drove, refilled, drove refilled etc till i got home.
I bought 3 gallons of oil at costco. I traced it back to where the stream started, it was about 30 seconds worth of driving. I got super lucky that I stopped when I did.
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