OM617 FJ43 Toyota Land Cruiser
OM617 FJ43 Toyota Land Cruiser
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tec...-away.html
In college I owned a w115 1976 300D that I got from a junkyard and a 1983 300TD Wagon I found in a field for $300 that turned into a beautiful black on black car after a respray and a lot of mechanical love. I loved both cars and sadly sold one when I joined the army and the other a couple of years later when we moved up/down into an 08 E320 Bluetec (wive's car). I also found a new passion for old Toyota Land Cruisers. After a short deployment to Colombia I came home with a FJ43 a slightly longer version of the FJ40 that was imported to the US. It is a pretty rare vehicle in the states with probably only around a dozen floating around that have recently been imported. I am not a Purist so I'm melding the best of both worlds together. My favorite engine ever with my favorite 4x4 ever.
The engine I have was recently rebuilt (minus the head) so I am told. But sadly I do not have the original Flex plate to help me balance my new flywheel. Should I remove the crank and balance it? Do I even need to remove it to balance it?
Anyway I appreciate any input you all can give along the way and I'll try to document it well on this site as well. I will be running the stock power steering pump up to a Saginaw box. A/C was not on this engine but I will likely run a custom bracket and an entire aftermarket A/C system. Haven't decided on the Alternator yet. I don't imagine needing much more than the 55 Amps (am I remembering correctly?) that the stock alternator put out plus I like that the brushes are so damn easy to rebuild. I do have to cut the oil pan a bit but I will add an oil cooler and quite possibly a remote oil filter or centrifuge system as I'm told the stock housing gets in the way of the motor mounts on these builds. We will see. Unlike my college days I actually will have money to spend on it so hopefully I can dive into the engine in the future. It currently has an HY35 mounted to it from the PO but I will likely rebuild the KKK that is sitting in the box and just run that until future times when I can crank it up. But I should be running 65 MPH at 2500 RPMs which I remember was nothing for these engines and I doubt I will ever want to go much faster than that anyway. Hopefully I can return some decent mileage pushing the big brick thru the air. Goal is 25 MPH highway at 65 MPH.
This will be a slow build (my dad is doing most of it) as I will deployed from December thru September.
Thank you,
Jason
addicted56
09-23-2012, 09:49 PM #1I have another thread in the land cruiser forum I frequent often. I will post a link here to get you up to speed if you are interested.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tec...-away.html
In college I owned a w115 1976 300D that I got from a junkyard and a 1983 300TD Wagon I found in a field for $300 that turned into a beautiful black on black car after a respray and a lot of mechanical love. I loved both cars and sadly sold one when I joined the army and the other a couple of years later when we moved up/down into an 08 E320 Bluetec (wive's car). I also found a new passion for old Toyota Land Cruisers. After a short deployment to Colombia I came home with a FJ43 a slightly longer version of the FJ40 that was imported to the US. It is a pretty rare vehicle in the states with probably only around a dozen floating around that have recently been imported. I am not a Purist so I'm melding the best of both worlds together. My favorite engine ever with my favorite 4x4 ever.
The engine I have was recently rebuilt (minus the head) so I am told. But sadly I do not have the original Flex plate to help me balance my new flywheel. Should I remove the crank and balance it? Do I even need to remove it to balance it?
Anyway I appreciate any input you all can give along the way and I'll try to document it well on this site as well. I will be running the stock power steering pump up to a Saginaw box. A/C was not on this engine but I will likely run a custom bracket and an entire aftermarket A/C system. Haven't decided on the Alternator yet. I don't imagine needing much more than the 55 Amps (am I remembering correctly?) that the stock alternator put out plus I like that the brushes are so damn easy to rebuild. I do have to cut the oil pan a bit but I will add an oil cooler and quite possibly a remote oil filter or centrifuge system as I'm told the stock housing gets in the way of the motor mounts on these builds. We will see. Unlike my college days I actually will have money to spend on it so hopefully I can dive into the engine in the future. It currently has an HY35 mounted to it from the PO but I will likely rebuild the KKK that is sitting in the box and just run that until future times when I can crank it up. But I should be running 65 MPH at 2500 RPMs which I remember was nothing for these engines and I doubt I will ever want to go much faster than that anyway. Hopefully I can return some decent mileage pushing the big brick thru the air. Goal is 25 MPH highway at 65 MPH.
This will be a slow build (my dad is doing most of it) as I will deployed from December thru September.
Thank you,
Jason
Over on PeachParts there is a guy selling brackets to fit a Sanden A/C compressor-That's supposed to be the best/easiest in the long run. I want to say it's like $150 for the backets.
The Bosch AL129X puts out 115A, and it's a more or less dropin replacement(Just needs custom wires-it has a + post instead of plug). You can get them on fleabay pretty cheap, or from some Saabs. It's better to have more power and not need it than vice-versa, right?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-24-2012, 08:09 AM #2Any flexplate will work, as I understand it just make sure the flywheel assembly is balanced before bolting it on.
Over on PeachParts there is a guy selling brackets to fit a Sanden A/C compressor-That's supposed to be the best/easiest in the long run. I want to say it's like $150 for the backets.
The Bosch AL129X puts out 115A, and it's a more or less dropin replacement(Just needs custom wires-it has a + post instead of plug). You can get them on fleabay pretty cheap, or from some Saabs. It's better to have more power and not need it than vice-versa, right?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-24-2012, 08:09 AM)Simpler=Better Any flexplate will work, as I understand it just make sure the flywheel assembly is balanced before bolting it on.
Over on PeachParts there is a guy selling brackets to fit a Sanden A/C compressor-That's supposed to be the best/easiest in the long run. I want to say it's like $150 for the backets.
The Bosch AL129X puts out 115A, and it's a more or less dropin replacement(Just needs custom wires-it has a + post instead of plug). You can get them on fleabay pretty cheap, or from some Saabs. It's better to have more power and not need it than vice-versa, right?
I really appreciate the input. I will probably do that with the alternator. I can probably make my own bracket but will see if I can find that. Must be pretty complicated bracket for $115.
Thanks
addicted56
10-01-2012, 09:32 PM #3(09-24-2012, 08:09 AM)Simpler=Better Any flexplate will work, as I understand it just make sure the flywheel assembly is balanced before bolting it on.
Over on PeachParts there is a guy selling brackets to fit a Sanden A/C compressor-That's supposed to be the best/easiest in the long run. I want to say it's like $150 for the backets.
The Bosch AL129X puts out 115A, and it's a more or less dropin replacement(Just needs custom wires-it has a + post instead of plug). You can get them on fleabay pretty cheap, or from some Saabs. It's better to have more power and not need it than vice-versa, right?
I really appreciate the input. I will probably do that with the alternator. I can probably make my own bracket but will see if I can find that. Must be pretty complicated bracket for $115.
Thanks
addicted56
06-04-2013, 11:21 AM #4About 3 more months and she will be done. Still update the thread from above. I will have years of work to do on the engine and get it where I want but stock will do for now.
addicted56
09-24-2013, 06:34 PM #5Man was I wrong. Both engines were bad so still debating re....rebuilding one of them or just getting a good used engine.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-24-2013, 06:41 PM #6Bad compression or just poor running?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-24-2013, 06:41 PM)Simpler=Better Bad compression or just poor running?
Well the previous owner had replaced 3 of the 5 lower bearings (the ones you can get while they are still in the car. No rod knock but one of them seized while on the test stand. The other engine that had been rebuilt was poorly done to say the least and you could not even turn it over. So off to the builder they went. Sad I couldn't afford to buy new pistons because after all of this work and basically replacing every part on the engine it would be nice to have new pistons as well. It just wasn't in the cards at $340 a pop.
Engine should be done by January though so we will see how she does.
addicted56
11-29-2013, 05:09 PM #7(09-24-2013, 06:41 PM)Simpler=Better Bad compression or just poor running?
Well the previous owner had replaced 3 of the 5 lower bearings (the ones you can get while they are still in the car. No rod knock but one of them seized while on the test stand. The other engine that had been rebuilt was poorly done to say the least and you could not even turn it over. So off to the builder they went. Sad I couldn't afford to buy new pistons because after all of this work and basically replacing every part on the engine it would be nice to have new pistons as well. It just wasn't in the cards at $340 a pop.
Engine should be done by January though so we will see how she does.
Luckily got my injectors rebuilt as one of them was at 1500 PSI and the others around 1700. Also got a M pump and who knows what the history holds for that. I will likely just crank up the MW pump until I feel like I need more. Did get the first bit of paint on the body as well as the seats mounted. Starting to look like a truck.
addicted56
01-19-2014, 09:58 AM #8Well she is coming along slowly but surely. Big hold up is still the engine. The builder has been unable to balance the crankshaft.
Luckily got my injectors rebuilt as one of them was at 1500 PSI and the others around 1700. Also got a M pump and who knows what the history holds for that. I will likely just crank up the MW pump until I feel like I need more. Did get the first bit of paint on the body as well as the seats mounted. Starting to look like a truck.
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