Pre chamber questions
Pre chamber questions
what i understand is that you remove the collar by making a tool, then make a slide hammer with the right threads( i found some random part that will work for this today) then what do you do with the pre chamber? just clean them out or drill bigger holes? is it worth the effort? i already have the engine out and injectors out.
also the crush rings need to be replaced right? anyone have a part number for those or a source?
any links i might have missed would be helpful
thanks.
Ive tried doing research recently for what to do for the pre chambers, but alot of the threads have been 404'd.
what i understand is that you remove the collar by making a tool, then make a slide hammer with the right threads( i found some random part that will work for this today) then what do you do with the pre chamber? just clean them out or drill bigger holes? is it worth the effort? i already have the engine out and injectors out.
also the crush rings need to be replaced right? anyone have a part number for those or a source?
any links i might have missed would be helpful
thanks.
(06-05-2013, 12:49 AM)poleshady Ive tried doing research recently for what to do for the pre chambers, but alot of the threads have been 404'd.You might want to start with which engine you are talking about. The prechambers differ.
what i understand is that you remove the collar by making a tool, then make a slide hammer with the right threads( i found some random part that will work for this today) then what do you do with the pre chamber? just clean them out or drill bigger holes? is it worth the effort? i already have the engine out and injectors out.
also the crush rings need to be replaced right? anyone have a part number for those or a source?
any links i might have missed would be helpful
thanks.
(06-05-2013, 12:49 AM)poleshady Ive tried doing research recently for what to do for the pre chambers, but alot of the threads have been 404'd.You might want to start with which engine you are talking about. The prechambers differ.
what i understand is that you remove the collar by making a tool, then make a slide hammer with the right threads( i found some random part that will work for this today) then what do you do with the pre chamber? just clean them out or drill bigger holes? is it worth the effort? i already have the engine out and injectors out.
also the crush rings need to be replaced right? anyone have a part number for those or a source?
any links i might have missed would be helpful
thanks.
The PC burn holes sre typically reamed out, http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=2169
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-05-2013, 07:51 AM #4You can get the crush washers an return lines for peachparts, buy at least 20 crush washers to have on hand-you never know when you'll need to swap an injector for diagnostics.
The PC burn holes sre typically reamed out, http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=2169
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-05-2013, 07:51 AM)Simpler=Better You can get the crush washers an return lines for peachparts, buy at least 20 crush washers to have on hand-you never know when you'll need to swap an injector for diagnostics.
The PC burn holes sre typically reamed out, http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=2169
Im still yet to find an actual guide on reaming them out other than "Take a carbide cutter on a dremel and ream them open .010"
1986 Olds 442 - Blue/Silver : 383 SBC, AFR 210 Eliminators, Roller Cam, Blueprinted and balance (for real
To come: Gen 1 Isuzu trooper, OM617, sm465, np241, locked toy axles, 33x10.5 KM2s
(06-05-2013, 07:51 AM)Simpler=Better You can get the crush washers an return lines for peachparts, buy at least 20 crush washers to have on hand-you never know when you'll need to swap an injector for diagnostics.
The PC burn holes sre typically reamed out, http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...p?tid=2169
Im still yet to find an actual guide on reaming them out other than "Take a carbide cutter on a dremel and ream them open .010"
1986 Olds 442 - Blue/Silver : 383 SBC, AFR 210 Eliminators, Roller Cam, Blueprinted and balance (for real
To come: Gen 1 Isuzu trooper, OM617, sm465, np241, locked toy axles, 33x10.5 KM2s
![[Image: reamer.JPG]](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2_P6uqc8P3w/TOTTyzhusBI/AAAAAAAAAJY/EgcbOxnXOV0/s1600/reamer.JPG)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-07-2013, 10:17 PM #7A reamer is a precision tool. A drill bit is really sloppy compared to a reamer, and a dremel is downright caveman. You want a solid carbine straight reamer.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I got one that is tapered slightly. The way I look at it, the small amount of taper couldn't hurt, if not maybe even help
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
For the back ones you will have to go in steps to get them big enough, make sure you follow the angle of each port as they are different. Use a good "cutting fluid" for steal and go slow, if all you have used before is a drill bit, think of going VERY SLOW compared to a drill bit.
I used a cordless drill but I am a machinist so no big deal to me. For a novice I recommend getting a "hand Reamer" (they are tapered) and do them by hand.
There is no "procedure" of do this as only a hand full of us have dared to go against the MB gods and butcher the perfection that only MB can achieve lol..
A reamer is intended to finish a hole, so it will only remove a little at a time, generally no more than .015 inch per side.
For the back ones you will have to go in steps to get them big enough, make sure you follow the angle of each port as they are different. Use a good "cutting fluid" for steal and go slow, if all you have used before is a drill bit, think of going VERY SLOW compared to a drill bit.
I used a cordless drill but I am a machinist so no big deal to me. For a novice I recommend getting a "hand Reamer" (they are tapered) and do them by hand.
There is no "procedure" of do this as only a hand full of us have dared to go against the MB gods and butcher the perfection that only MB can achieve lol..
i made a slide hammer with a 10 lb weight, and one of the pre chambers would not come out. i was really wailing on it, it broke welds a few times and finally stripped out the threads of the puller.
well, i couldn't get them all out so unfortunately i dont think its gonna happen on this engine.
i made a slide hammer with a 10 lb weight, and one of the pre chambers would not come out. i was really wailing on it, it broke welds a few times and finally stripped out the threads of the puller.
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