vacuum pump rebuild
vacuum pump rebuild
I am assuming I should be able to figure it out by taking it off. Im just worried about small parts ending up in oil pans and what not.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
any tips on rebuilding the vacuum pumps on the 617? I have never had to deal with one, but I need to put all new seals in it since its pissing oil through the ignition onto my pants as I drive.
I am assuming I should be able to figure it out by taking it off. Im just worried about small parts ending up in oil pans and what not.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-17-2009, 11:48 PM #3I think there are several types... you'd have to make sure it was the same... I remember a post over on schumanns that talked about that...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
Thanks, I had one already though (same origin). I pulled off the front cover and discovered some metal pieces in the three small diaphrams on the outside.
Ended up just ordering another one, a new check valve, and a new line from the pump to the booster. (the original has been repaired a bunch of times with super glue). This time, ill get everything in the first run of repairs.
I figure I can just rebuild the original at my leisure and get this thing back on the road.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
"I have the rebuild kit I'll sell for cheap. Bought it and never needed it. "
Thanks, I had one already though (same origin). I pulled off the front cover and discovered some metal pieces in the three small diaphrams on the outside.
Ended up just ordering another one, a new check valve, and a new line from the pump to the booster. (the original has been repaired a bunch of times with super glue). This time, ill get everything in the first run of repairs.
I figure I can just rebuild the original at my leisure and get this thing back on the road.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Hit a rock, happened to have both these items, no oil with me, and way the hell up in the middle of nowhere in the angeles range above LA. Maybe a 30 mile walk to nearest station.
Oil was dripping out 3 or 4 drips per second. Stuffed the napkin in the hole to slow the leak down, covered the crack with JB weld over the napkin, lay there with another napkin over the JB for a while, and prayed for a while. Stopped the leak for the rest of the trip.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
If you like that, my personal best is repairing a leaking cracked oil pan on the side of the road with a Mcdonalds napkin and a package of JB weld.
Hit a rock, happened to have both these items, no oil with me, and way the hell up in the middle of nowhere in the angeles range above LA. Maybe a 30 mile walk to nearest station.
Oil was dripping out 3 or 4 drips per second. Stuffed the napkin in the hole to slow the leak down, covered the crack with JB weld over the napkin, lay there with another napkin over the JB for a while, and prayed for a while. Stopped the leak for the rest of the trip.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Ouestion- directly under the vacuum pump is a sensor. I am a assuming that this is the lead to the Tach, is it? My tach has never worked, (partly because the entire amp deal near the glow plug relay was missing) but when I got another new one it still would not work.
This thing is a ball of grease, and looks like the wire lead has worn down some against the block. Should I replace it since I have total access, or can I clean it and repair the wire to have it work again? Are there any testing procedures for this lead so I can make sure it works?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
pulled the old pump, seal is shot completely, new pump should be here monday.
Ouestion- directly under the vacuum pump is a sensor. I am a assuming that this is the lead to the Tach, is it? My tach has never worked, (partly because the entire amp deal near the glow plug relay was missing) but when I got another new one it still would not work.
This thing is a ball of grease, and looks like the wire lead has worn down some against the block. Should I replace it since I have total access, or can I clean it and repair the wire to have it work again? Are there any testing procedures for this lead so I can make sure it works?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Herrmanator8
07-20-2009, 09:09 PM #10I too have to have my vacuum system rebuilt so ive heard since my transmission shifts hard and my car doesnt shut off til 2 seconds after I turn the ignition off. does anyone know where i could view a pictorial of locating and instructions on the procedure because i have no clue about what it looks like or where it is. some good advice would be appreciated
However, I would check all the little rubber vacuum line connections first, they could be dry rotted and leaking in the engine compartment or doors, or trunk. I had quite a few old cracked connections originally on my car.
Follow the large plastic vacuum line from the brake booster, goes directly into the top of vacuum pump on the driverside front of the engine.
Procedure for removing-
1- pull shroud and fan
2- optionally remove power steering belt, (I did not, just need to be careful of the radiator if you leave it in)
3- Disconnect hard line from top of pump and use a pick to clear out all allen head screws of crap, otherwise they are super easy to round out.
4- pull the screws, pump should be free at that time and easy to remove. (there may be tension on the pump cause its got a nifty little cam setup pushing the piston in and out, depending on the location of the cam, it might be putting pressure on the pump, so I suggest loosening all bolts first, then removing the hard to get lower ones before the top ones.)
The check valve on the top of mine was totally shot, check yours out. It was an expensive little piece of brass.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Super easy to remove the pump. I ordered a rebuilt one and swapped them. Have not rebuilt the original yet, but looks extremely simple.
However, I would check all the little rubber vacuum line connections first, they could be dry rotted and leaking in the engine compartment or doors, or trunk. I had quite a few old cracked connections originally on my car.
Follow the large plastic vacuum line from the brake booster, goes directly into the top of vacuum pump on the driverside front of the engine.
Procedure for removing-
1- pull shroud and fan
2- optionally remove power steering belt, (I did not, just need to be careful of the radiator if you leave it in)
3- Disconnect hard line from top of pump and use a pick to clear out all allen head screws of crap, otherwise they are super easy to round out.
4- pull the screws, pump should be free at that time and easy to remove. (there may be tension on the pump cause its got a nifty little cam setup pushing the piston in and out, depending on the location of the cam, it might be putting pressure on the pump, so I suggest loosening all bolts first, then removing the hard to get lower ones before the top ones.)
The check valve on the top of mine was totally shot, check yours out. It was an expensive little piece of brass.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
During the motor oil everywhere period of time, the car would shut off great, immediately after turning the key.
Now it wont shut off for about 30 seconds, but when it does, its a quick complete shut off. I am hearing a weird noise from the ignition. It tries a couple of times to shut the car off, and finally succeeds on the 3rd or 4th try, while making all kinds of spitting and sucking noises with an occasional metal type noise.
I cleared out the lines of oil, and the rubber boots are tight, (im going to just replace every rubber connection anyway), Can the ignition be disassembled and cleaned out? How do I remove it?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Pump works great, but now I have a new issue, (as these things go).
During the motor oil everywhere period of time, the car would shut off great, immediately after turning the key.
Now it wont shut off for about 30 seconds, but when it does, its a quick complete shut off. I am hearing a weird noise from the ignition. It tries a couple of times to shut the car off, and finally succeeds on the 3rd or 4th try, while making all kinds of spitting and sucking noises with an occasional metal type noise.
I cleared out the lines of oil, and the rubber boots are tight, (im going to just replace every rubber connection anyway), Can the ignition be disassembled and cleaned out? How do I remove it?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I also replaced the tiny vacuum valve on the side of the ignition, (unknown on name) which was a notorious PITA to remove, but it can be done without moving the ignition or cluster if you are not easily frustrated. You can access it from underneath. This was totally unnecessary though, the whole problem was the shut off valve.
Just to clear up the end of this thread, I had a pinhole in my vacuum shut off valve on the back of the injection pump which was causing a failure to stop quickly and all my ignition sucking noises. The new vacuum pump was not a problem.
I also replaced the tiny vacuum valve on the side of the ignition, (unknown on name) which was a notorious PITA to remove, but it can be done without moving the ignition or cluster if you are not easily frustrated. You can access it from underneath. This was totally unnecessary though, the whole problem was the shut off valve.
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