Om617 overheating issues.
Om617 overheating issues.
06-29-2013, 10:19 AM
#1
Coasted to the side and let it cool down,after a few minutes it would would turn over but wouldn't idle or stay running. Finally after some time it started to idle and I was able to then drive it home with no issues .
So I'm scratching my head on this one,why would it heat up a point that then motor just dies?
Thanks for your help.
So this is a swap we did in my 95 land rover disco. Anyway around town it only heats up to around 180f. But the other day well sitting in traffic and then hitting the HWY and going up grade it started to get hot. Hit the top of the hill going 50mph and started down and it got to around 240f and then the motor just cut out and dropped all power wouldn't even idle.
Coasted to the side and let it cool down,after a few minutes it would would turn over but wouldn't idle or stay running. Finally after some time it started to idle and I was able to then drive it home with no issues .
So I'm scratching my head on this one,why would it heat up a point that then motor just dies?
Thanks for your help.
06-29-2013, 10:40 PM
#2
(06-29-2013, 10:19 AM)Franko So I'm scratching my head on this one,why would it heat up a point that then motor just dies?
Thanks for your help.
Not sure why this happens, but I bet that prechamber temps are much higher than water jacket temps. It's possible that fuel begins to boil in the injector at some point.
You're going to have to go through the numbers to find the problem. Since it happens under high loads, I'd check the lower radiator hose, timing, and the fans as my first steps. The reason I suggest the lower radiator hose is that this is the suction hose...a spongy hose can collapse at higher RPMs, but look perfectly fine at idle. I recently installed a 92/102 temperature switch for the electric fans, which really helps to keep things under control even under high stress conditions.
1987 Mercedes 190TD
(06-29-2013, 10:19 AM)Franko So I'm scratching my head on this one,why would it heat up a point that then motor just dies?
Thanks for your help.
Not sure why this happens, but I bet that prechamber temps are much higher than water jacket temps. It's possible that fuel begins to boil in the injector at some point.
You're going to have to go through the numbers to find the problem. Since it happens under high loads, I'd check the lower radiator hose, timing, and the fans as my first steps. The reason I suggest the lower radiator hose is that this is the suction hose...a spongy hose can collapse at higher RPMs, but look perfectly fine at idle. I recently installed a 92/102 temperature switch for the electric fans, which really helps to keep things under control even under high stress conditions.
1987 Mercedes 190TD
06-29-2013, 11:07 PM
#3
Think I need to flush out the coolant system I guess and triple check ever thing.
Wondering if I should install electric fans in front as well??
Hmm interesting about the fuel boiling,never of that one before. Lower rad hose seems fine,but like you said would need to check it under load.
Think I need to flush out the coolant system I guess and triple check ever thing.
Wondering if I should install electric fans in front as well??
07-11-2013, 11:03 AM
#5
(07-11-2013, 08:56 AM)Franko How do you solve/find out if the fuel is boiling in the injectors??
I had cooling problems at highway speeds, got tired of screwing with the "bypass" cooling system and modified the thermostat so it is now a conventional "old fashion" cooling system..... much better.
I was actually on a trip and stopped at a friends house to do it lol...
(07-11-2013, 08:56 AM)Franko How do you solve/find out if the fuel is boiling in the injectors??
I had cooling problems at highway speeds, got tired of screwing with the "bypass" cooling system and modified the thermostat so it is now a conventional "old fashion" cooling system..... much better.
I was actually on a trip and stopped at a friends house to do it lol...
07-11-2013, 09:55 PM
#7
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-11-2013, 09:55 PM #7If you look on the front of the engine there should be a goofy little metal pipe that goes from the head to the water pump, it can get plugged up and you'll have that problem
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
lgreeley83
07-11-2013, 10:13 PM #8Oh tell us more.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
07-12-2013, 09:49 AM
#9
(07-11-2013, 08:22 PM)Franko Can you explain a little more how you did this? Looks like you just rotated the thermostat some how?
I did that about three years ago and do not remember exactly what I did lol...
You are correct that it is rotated. I remember that I had to put in a thermostat by pass restrictor so it would warm up quicker in the winter.
I am using the stock Thermostat, summer highway temps are between 165F and 175F, right where I want it to be.
If you want to try moding the thermostat housing, I recommend getting a used one and playing with that. I did a similar mod on my 240D, but in that case I made a in line thermostat housing that I put in the top hose.
(07-11-2013, 08:22 PM)Franko Can you explain a little more how you did this? Looks like you just rotated the thermostat some how?
I did that about three years ago and do not remember exactly what I did lol...
You are correct that it is rotated. I remember that I had to put in a thermostat by pass restrictor so it would warm up quicker in the winter.
I am using the stock Thermostat, summer highway temps are between 165F and 175F, right where I want it to be.
If you want to try moding the thermostat housing, I recommend getting a used one and playing with that. I did a similar mod on my 240D, but in that case I made a in line thermostat housing that I put in the top hose.
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