w123 rear spring removal/lowering/coil cutting
w123 rear spring removal/lowering/coil cutting
07-30-2009, 12:15 PM
#1
Are there any other techniques?
Thanks!
What is the best way to accomplish cutting a coil or two off of the rear springs on a w123? I did read through the threads, and tried to fit the strut type spring compressors (with a safety lock pin) on the rear springs to no avail. I read that the disk type might be available for rental or purchase at NAPA?
Are there any other techniques?
Thanks!
07-31-2009, 04:21 PM
#2
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=250517
Using this method on a w126.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
07-31-2009, 04:21 PM #2Although I have not done this yet, but there are folks out there who changed out their rear springs with out a compressor.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=250517
Using this method on a w126.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
07-31-2009, 05:11 PM
#3
GREASY_BEAST
07-31-2009, 05:11 PM #3The only safe way is to use the correct spring compressor (disc type). I got mine from this guy http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-...veQ5fTools
08-01-2009, 11:31 AM
#4
I will try it soon, and post pics. It seems straighforward enough.
Greasy, I tried the link, and it is down right now. Thanks as well.
(07-31-2009, 04:21 PM)DeliveryValve Although I have not done this yet, but there are folks out there who changed out their rear springs with out a compressor.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=250517
Using this method on a w126.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings
.
Thank you! I've seen references to the procedure, but I could never locate the actual method
I will try it soon, and post pics. It seems straighforward enough.
Greasy, I tried the link, and it is down right now. Thanks as well.
(07-31-2009, 04:21 PM)DeliveryValve Although I have not done this yet, but there are folks out there who changed out their rear springs with out a compressor.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=250517
Using this method on a w126.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings
.
08-01-2009, 12:44 PM
#5
(08-01-2009, 11:31 AM)606Power I tried the link, and it is down right now. Thanks as well.
I had the same issue, but here's the guy he was referring to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...MEWAX%3AIT
ebay SN: alkyracer101
ebay shop: EL PASO TOOL EUROPEAN AUTO TOOLS
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
08-01-2009, 12:44 PM #5(08-01-2009, 11:31 AM)606Power I tried the link, and it is down right now. Thanks as well.
I had the same issue, but here's the guy he was referring to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...MEWAX%3AIT
ebay SN: alkyracer101
ebay shop: EL PASO TOOL EUROPEAN AUTO TOOLS
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
08-04-2009, 07:29 AM
#6
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
08-04-2009, 10:50 AM
#7
(08-04-2009, 07:29 AM)winmutt For the rears you can just use the kind that runs down the middle with the hooks on the ends, no need for the Klann replica.
I used that type for the front as well, very carefully, but it's not something I'd recommend...just something I ended up doing last minute when the proper one hadnt yet come in the mail yet. It's one of those things that's borderline impossible and a total PITA.
I had to basically assemble the inner hook assemblies inside the front spring using a screwdrivers, fingers and a socket on an extension(even had to drop the socket down from the top and manipulate it up to where I could stab it with the extension and tighten the hook ass'y bolt as the socket wouldnt fit thru the coils) FWIW, I didn't really feel that unsafe doing it, but I treated it that way anyway, cause that compressor saw a LOT of stress... even then I had issues pulling hte spring out and re-installing it 'compressed', but finally managed to do it.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
08-04-2009, 10:50 AM #7(08-04-2009, 07:29 AM)winmutt For the rears you can just use the kind that runs down the middle with the hooks on the ends, no need for the Klann replica.
I used that type for the front as well, very carefully, but it's not something I'd recommend...just something I ended up doing last minute when the proper one hadnt yet come in the mail yet. It's one of those things that's borderline impossible and a total PITA.
I had to basically assemble the inner hook assemblies inside the front spring using a screwdrivers, fingers and a socket on an extension(even had to drop the socket down from the top and manipulate it up to where I could stab it with the extension and tighten the hook ass'y bolt as the socket wouldnt fit thru the coils) FWIW, I didn't really feel that unsafe doing it, but I treated it that way anyway, cause that compressor saw a LOT of stress... even then I had issues pulling hte spring out and re-installing it 'compressed', but finally managed to do it.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
08-04-2009, 09:19 PM
#9
I have always wondered, why not just support the lower control arm with a floor jack, then separate the lower ball joint and slowly lower the jack to relieve the spring pressure? Is there not enough travel in the control arm swing? Too much spring angle, such that the spring would fly out the side before pressure is relieved? Has anyone ever tried or heard of someone trying this without dying?
-Brian
1983 300TD
1982 240D
1981 280TE
In regard to removing and reinstalling the front springs:
I have always wondered, why not just support the lower control arm with a floor jack, then separate the lower ball joint and slowly lower the jack to relieve the spring pressure? Is there not enough travel in the control arm swing? Too much spring angle, such that the spring would fly out the side before pressure is relieved? Has anyone ever tried or heard of someone trying this without dying?
-Brian
1983 300TD
1982 240D
1981 280TE
08-04-2009, 10:03 PM
#10
(08-04-2009, 09:19 PM)tantank79 In regard to removing and reinstalling the front springs:
I have always wondered, why not just support the lower control arm with a floor jack, then separate the lower ball joint and slowly lower the jack to relieve the spring pressure? Is there not enough travel in the control arm swing? Too much spring angle, such that the spring would fly out the side before pressure is relieved? Has anyone ever tried or heard of someone trying this without dying?
It is very risky and scary. But I've removed the front spring without a spring compressor by popping off the upper balljoint, unbolting the shock from up top and then slowly lowering it with a jack. The stock spring still gets hung up on the perch somewhat because the tie rod prevent the lower control arm from being lowered just that bit more. I just carefully pried it off.
The lower ball joint is much harder to pop off so I haven't done it that way. But with popping off the lower ball joint, the tie rod will not get in the way and you can theoretically have the spring just fall out.
Now installing it without a spring compressor. That would be insane!
I just don't see how one can do that safely and have he spring seated correctly on the perch at the same time.
.
This post was last modified: 08-04-2009, 10:14 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
08-04-2009, 10:03 PM #10(08-04-2009, 09:19 PM)tantank79 In regard to removing and reinstalling the front springs:
I have always wondered, why not just support the lower control arm with a floor jack, then separate the lower ball joint and slowly lower the jack to relieve the spring pressure? Is there not enough travel in the control arm swing? Too much spring angle, such that the spring would fly out the side before pressure is relieved? Has anyone ever tried or heard of someone trying this without dying?
It is very risky and scary. But I've removed the front spring without a spring compressor by popping off the upper balljoint, unbolting the shock from up top and then slowly lowering it with a jack. The stock spring still gets hung up on the perch somewhat because the tie rod prevent the lower control arm from being lowered just that bit more. I just carefully pried it off.
The lower ball joint is much harder to pop off so I haven't done it that way. But with popping off the lower ball joint, the tie rod will not get in the way and you can theoretically have the spring just fall out.
Now installing it without a spring compressor. That would be insane!
I just don't see how one can do that safely and have he spring seated correctly on the perch at the same time.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
08-04-2009, 11:05 PM
#11
(08-04-2009, 10:03 PM)DeliveryValve It is very risky and scary. But I've removed the front spring without a spring compressor by popping off the upper balljoint, unbolting the shock from up top and then slowly lowering it with a jack. The stock spring still gets hung up on the perch somewhat because the tie rod prevent the lower control arm from being lowered just that bit more. I just carefully pried it off.I removed the LCA/spindle assy from a donor in the part yard in this manner. I removed the shock, popped the upper ball/UCA ass'y and tie rod. Then I knocked out the LCA pin (that was a big pain...ended up using a A/C compressor bolt lying in the dirt to finish pushing it through, then had issues getting that un-stuck). When that LCA finally gave way, the whole assy shot out way more than I ever thought it would. I was staying well clear (or so I thought) and it still came out far enough to pop me in the nose. If I hadn't respected that spring so much (and been about an inch closer), it woulda done some damage to my face, or worse. If I were to do it again, I probably would just punch that LCA pin out first and let it pop down, then remove everything else. Again not something I'd recommend, but I *knew* I could do it and have done other crazier shite in the past. If the yard woulda let me take my jack in there I would have done it in a much safer (and likely easier) manner, but they don't allow it at Ecology presumably 'cause they're worried about people jacking up a car off the welded wheels they use for jackstands and dropping a car on themselves.
The lower ball joint is much harder to pop off so I haven't done it that way. But with popping off the lower ball joint, the tie rod will not get in the way and you can theoretically have the spring just fall out.
(08-04-2009, 10:03 PM)DeliveryValve Now installing it without a spring compressor. That would be insane!
x2 probably not possible... I wouldnt rule it out, but I don't see it happening.
This post was last modified: 08-04-2009, 11:07 PM by SurfRodder.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
08-04-2009, 11:05 PM #11(08-04-2009, 10:03 PM)DeliveryValve It is very risky and scary. But I've removed the front spring without a spring compressor by popping off the upper balljoint, unbolting the shock from up top and then slowly lowering it with a jack. The stock spring still gets hung up on the perch somewhat because the tie rod prevent the lower control arm from being lowered just that bit more. I just carefully pried it off.I removed the LCA/spindle assy from a donor in the part yard in this manner. I removed the shock, popped the upper ball/UCA ass'y and tie rod. Then I knocked out the LCA pin (that was a big pain...ended up using a A/C compressor bolt lying in the dirt to finish pushing it through, then had issues getting that un-stuck). When that LCA finally gave way, the whole assy shot out way more than I ever thought it would. I was staying well clear (or so I thought) and it still came out far enough to pop me in the nose. If I hadn't respected that spring so much (and been about an inch closer), it woulda done some damage to my face, or worse. If I were to do it again, I probably would just punch that LCA pin out first and let it pop down, then remove everything else. Again not something I'd recommend, but I *knew* I could do it and have done other crazier shite in the past. If the yard woulda let me take my jack in there I would have done it in a much safer (and likely easier) manner, but they don't allow it at Ecology presumably 'cause they're worried about people jacking up a car off the welded wheels they use for jackstands and dropping a car on themselves.
The lower ball joint is much harder to pop off so I haven't done it that way. But with popping off the lower ball joint, the tie rod will not get in the way and you can theoretically have the spring just fall out.
(08-04-2009, 10:03 PM)DeliveryValve Now installing it without a spring compressor. That would be insane!
x2 probably not possible... I wouldnt rule it out, but I don't see it happening.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
08-06-2009, 12:00 PM
#13
The method was a piece of cake, and the springs simply fell out; very safe.
I really was not looking to lower the car, so much as increase the spring rate. I might even add a spacer depending on how the testing for about a week goes. The spring rate now seems to better match the front springs, which were previously lowered/cut for a more balanced suspension. From initial testing, the car feels like it will understeer less.
Also, there were zero issues fitting the rear subframe bolt into the chassis, and if I ever need to remove it again, the bolt is greased with molybdenum. This should come in handy should need to add the bespoke spacers.
Thanks again for the help
OK, it is done! I am very happy with the results, and will get some pics when it stops raining.
The method was a piece of cake, and the springs simply fell out; very safe.
I really was not looking to lower the car, so much as increase the spring rate. I might even add a spacer depending on how the testing for about a week goes. The spring rate now seems to better match the front springs, which were previously lowered/cut for a more balanced suspension. From initial testing, the car feels like it will understeer less.
Also, there were zero issues fitting the rear subframe bolt into the chassis, and if I ever need to remove it again, the bolt is greased with molybdenum. This should come in handy should need to add the bespoke spacers.
Thanks again for the help
08-06-2009, 12:16 PM
#14
(08-06-2009, 11:57 AM)winmutt Most yards have a jack on site they will bring out for you.
yeah, they wouldnt let me do that either...if you need a car lifted to get at something, theyll come around with the forklift and move it for you, but that's about it. I used to look for bottle jacks in other cars, but they're getting better at removing those and I havent found one like that in a while.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
08-06-2009, 12:16 PM #14(08-06-2009, 11:57 AM)winmutt Most yards have a jack on site they will bring out for you.
yeah, they wouldnt let me do that either...if you need a car lifted to get at something, theyll come around with the forklift and move it for you, but that's about it. I used to look for bottle jacks in other cars, but they're getting better at removing those and I havent found one like that in a while.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
08-06-2009, 03:05 PM
#15
(08-06-2009, 12:00 PM)606Power Also, there were zero issues fitting the rear subframe bolt into the chassis, and if I ever need to remove it again, the bolt is greased with molybdenum. This should come in handy should need to add the bespoke spacers.
Thanks again for the help
I totally missed that you were only doing the rears... I've done that several times w/o the compressor, most recently to finish installing my rear subframe mounts.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
08-06-2009, 03:05 PM #15(08-06-2009, 12:00 PM)606Power Also, there were zero issues fitting the rear subframe bolt into the chassis, and if I ever need to remove it again, the bolt is greased with molybdenum. This should come in handy should need to add the bespoke spacers.
Thanks again for the help
I totally missed that you were only doing the rears... I've done that several times w/o the compressor, most recently to finish installing my rear subframe mounts.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
04-14-2012, 10:05 PM
#16
do your thing. re-installation is reverse of removal.
be careful!
wrecking yards should not charge you for cut seatbelts since they are considered straps used for pulling engines...
stay tuned for next weeks installment: how to build an engine hoist out of a drive shaft!
turbo_reboot
04-14-2012, 10:05 PM #16i have used seat belts for strapping @ the wreckers successfully many times. simply cut the longest non sun damaged (or otherwise) belt you can find (van or truck) pull wheel, lift corner of spring to be changed, then use a jack lift the suspension at a safe spot 2" and wrap seat belt around the very last (upper/lower respectively) accessible spring 2x and pull tight then make a reliable knot. repeat this 3 more times on the same spring now find something slender, 4 wrenches, long bolts... at least 6" long, insert into each of the tied belt loops and twist (bind), take turns lil by little and finally tie the bolts, wrenches, screwdrivers or whatever you have chosen to some part of the spring so they cannot unwind. lower suspension sloooooooowly and hang onto springs. these babies are now LOADED so treat with care!
do your thing. re-installation is reverse of removal.
be careful!
wrecking yards should not charge you for cut seatbelts since they are considered straps used for pulling engines...
stay tuned for next weeks installment: how to build an engine hoist out of a drive shaft!
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