Low idle.
Low idle.
07-01-2013, 12:50 PM
#1
I don't fancy introducing 12volt in there and blowing it's head off before I'm sure of what I'm at.
ta.
So...I have a 606.962 fitted with a 124 manual pump. The cold idle is low (about 500-550 rpm). Does the ELR idle-up device at the top rear of these pumps take a straight 12volt supply to increase cold idle -so it could be worked from a simple on/off switch- or is it some silly ECU generated voltage like maybe 2v?
I don't fancy introducing 12volt in there and blowing it's head off before I'm sure of what I'm at.
ta.
07-01-2013, 01:21 PM
#2
(07-01-2013, 12:50 PM)Druk So...I have a 606.962 fitted with a 124 manual pump. The cold idle is low (about 500-550 rpm). Does the ELR idle-up device at the top rear of these pumps take a straight 12volt supply to increase cold idle -so it could be worked from a simple on/off switch- or is it some silly ECU generated voltage like maybe 2v?Its pure 12Volt to that ELR, you can use on/off switch.
I don't fancy introducing 12volt in there and blowing it's head off before I'm sure of what I'm at.
ta.
dieselmeken
07-01-2013, 01:21 PM #2(07-01-2013, 12:50 PM)Druk So...I have a 606.962 fitted with a 124 manual pump. The cold idle is low (about 500-550 rpm). Does the ELR idle-up device at the top rear of these pumps take a straight 12volt supply to increase cold idle -so it could be worked from a simple on/off switch- or is it some silly ECU generated voltage like maybe 2v?Its pure 12Volt to that ELR, you can use on/off switch.
I don't fancy introducing 12volt in there and blowing it's head off before I'm sure of what I'm at.
ta.
07-01-2013, 02:24 PM
#4
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
07-01-2013, 02:24 PM #4Maybe add a potentiometer?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
07-01-2013, 03:54 PM
#6
(07-01-2013, 02:44 PM)Druk ^ Good idea. I'll try it tomorrow and report back.
.
It will normally rice to 1000 RPM if you put 12 V on it.
I use my gearbox controller to send a PWM signal to it, to have a steady 800 Rpm cold and 700 Rpm when worm.
By cold i normally i send around 30% PWM to it. that means 12V 30% of the time.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(07-01-2013, 02:44 PM)Druk ^ Good idea. I'll try it tomorrow and report back.
.
It will normally rice to 1000 RPM if you put 12 V on it.
I use my gearbox controller to send a PWM signal to it, to have a steady 800 Rpm cold and 700 Rpm when worm.
By cold i normally i send around 30% PWM to it. that means 12V 30% of the time.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
07-01-2013, 04:38 PM
#7
(07-01-2013, 03:54 PM)olefejer(07-01-2013, 02:44 PM)Druk ^ Good idea. I'll try it tomorrow and report back.
.
It will normally rice to 1000 RPM if you put 12 V on it.
I use my gearbox controller to send a PWM signal to it, to have a steady 800 Rpm cold and 700 Rpm when worm.
By cold i normally i send around 30% PWM to it. that means 12V 30% of the time.
Ok Ta. Does that mean it needs a PWM signal or can I achieve the same result by cutting the voltage down to (say) 9v by using a pot?
.
(07-01-2013, 03:54 PM)olefejer(07-01-2013, 02:44 PM)Druk ^ Good idea. I'll try it tomorrow and report back.
.
It will normally rice to 1000 RPM if you put 12 V on it.
I use my gearbox controller to send a PWM signal to it, to have a steady 800 Rpm cold and 700 Rpm when worm.
By cold i normally i send around 30% PWM to it. that means 12V 30% of the time.
Ok Ta. Does that mean it needs a PWM signal or can I achieve the same result by cutting the voltage down to (say) 9v by using a pot?
.
07-01-2013, 05:59 PM
#8
I will stick my power supply on my pump tomorrow night and see what kind of power it draws for you.
Just a thought but does your car originally have a manual choke on it? You could use that to pull the throttle slightly and still have that authentic cold start choke experience if it has :-)
This post was last modified: 07-01-2013, 06:02 PM by Mark_M.
Depends on the amount of current it draws as to how easy it is to drop the voltage especially with resistors or a pot. They tend to get pretty big and hot in a hurry. PWM is by far the better way to go and you could make it variable to temp so its a constant RPM. All that said my new car goes up to 1000rpm on a cold start for a few mins and its no big deal really.
I will stick my power supply on my pump tomorrow night and see what kind of power it draws for you.
Just a thought but does your car originally have a manual choke on it? You could use that to pull the throttle slightly and still have that authentic cold start choke experience if it has :-)
07-02-2013, 01:46 AM
#9
(07-01-2013, 05:59 PM)Mark_M I will stick my power supply on my pump tomorrow night and see what kind of power it draws for you.
Just a thought but does your car originally have a manual choke on it? You could use that to pull the throttle slightly and still have that authentic cold start choke experience if it has :-)
Power draw info would be most useful to know. Theres a guy in the Owners Club who could possibly make up a PWM to suit if he knew the draw. The original engine was Bosch K-Jetronic so no choke.
.
(07-01-2013, 05:59 PM)Mark_M I will stick my power supply on my pump tomorrow night and see what kind of power it draws for you.
Just a thought but does your car originally have a manual choke on it? You could use that to pull the throttle slightly and still have that authentic cold start choke experience if it has :-)
Power draw info would be most useful to know. Theres a guy in the Owners Club who could possibly make up a PWM to suit if he knew the draw. The original engine was Bosch K-Jetronic so no choke.
.
07-02-2013, 10:06 AM
#10
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-02-2013, 10:06 AM #10You could get a radiator thermo time switch like the old bmw's used to activate the cold start injector to switch 12v to the ELR
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-02-2013, 11:52 AM
#11
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
07-02-2013, 12:28 PM
#12
If you get OM603 engine loom it's pretty straight forward. 
1 temp. sensor is requiredand a steady voltage supply (OVP) for the ELR. Wiring diagramms are in the FSM. Or you just turn idle higher manually... So far I have not managed to stall the engine without ELR (full steering lock). I have not tried with aircon, though. But who needs that heavy sh!t anyway...
Now I've retro-fitted the ELR in the CE (OM603a) with original engine loom - it needed two wires from the OVP relais and that's it. Works.
This post was last modified: 07-02-2013, 12:31 PM by DiseaselWeasel.
DiseaselWeasel
07-02-2013, 12:28 PM #12Simply 12V will fry the magnet! Don't do this... As others have said, it's a PWM signal. The ECU itself is tiny and has only 8 wires If you get OM603 engine loom it's pretty straight forward. 1 temp. sensor is requiredand a steady voltage supply (OVP) for the ELR. Wiring diagramms are in the FSM.
Or you just turn idle higher manually... So far I have not managed to stall the engine without ELR (full steering lock). I have not tried with aircon, though. But who needs that heavy sh!t anyway...
Now I've retro-fitted the ELR in the CE (OM603a) with original engine loom - it needed two wires from the OVP relais and that's it. Works.
07-02-2013, 01:35 PM
#13
(07-02-2013, 11:52 AM)barrote if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.The engine is a 606 so it should have an ECU. The only temp sender on it that I know of is a 2 pin thermistor type so needs electronics to read it accurately . There is a blank at the front of the head that you could screw something into I suppose. I was going to use it for a standard temp sender for stock gauges.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
No idea what is screwed into the 603 though which is what the pump will be from.
Personally I would go for one of the cheap small Arduino boards hook an analogue pin up to the thermistor sensor and a PWM pin up to a transistor power circuit. Bit of straightforward code and you have a PWM controler based on temperature. You obviously need to work out values so it works properly. You could also use the existing flywheel sensor and count rpm so you can control idle fully. That's a bit more complicated though.
(07-02-2013, 11:52 AM)barrote if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.The engine is a 606 so it should have an ECU. The only temp sender on it that I know of is a 2 pin thermistor type so needs electronics to read it accurately . There is a blank at the front of the head that you could screw something into I suppose. I was going to use it for a standard temp sender for stock gauges.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
No idea what is screwed into the 603 though which is what the pump will be from.
Personally I would go for one of the cheap small Arduino boards hook an analogue pin up to the thermistor sensor and a PWM pin up to a transistor power circuit. Bit of straightforward code and you have a PWM controler based on temperature. You obviously need to work out values so it works properly. You could also use the existing flywheel sensor and count rpm so you can control idle fully. That's a bit more complicated though.
07-02-2013, 01:37 PM
#14
(07-02-2013, 12:28 PM)DiseaselWeasel Simply 12V will fry the magnet! Don't do this... As others have said, it's a PWM signal. The ECU itself is tiny and has only 8 wires
Or you just turn idle higher manually... So far I have not managed to stall the engine without ELR (full steering lock). I have not tried with aircon, though. But who needs that heavy sh!t anyway...
Now I've retro-fitted the ELR in the CE (OM603a) with original engine loom - it needed two wires from the OVP relais and that's it. Works.
Thanks for this. Danke
. I'm trying to avoid too much electrickery. My car (A 1981 R107) doesn't have an OVP so that would have to be wired in. I flashed the ELR across the battery this afternoon but without the engine running and there was a fair bit of current evident from the flash and a hefty 'clunk'. Maybe I'll just leave it and have a hand throttle advance as has been suggested.
(07-02-2013, 12:28 PM)DiseaselWeasel Simply 12V will fry the magnet! Don't do this... As others have said, it's a PWM signal. The ECU itself is tiny and has only 8 wires
Or you just turn idle higher manually... So far I have not managed to stall the engine without ELR (full steering lock). I have not tried with aircon, though. But who needs that heavy sh!t anyway...
Now I've retro-fitted the ELR in the CE (OM603a) with original engine loom - it needed two wires from the OVP relais and that's it. Works.
Thanks for this. Danke
. I'm trying to avoid too much electrickery. My car (A 1981 R107) doesn't have an OVP so that would have to be wired in. I flashed the ELR across the battery this afternoon but without the engine running and there was a fair bit of current evident from the flash and a hefty 'clunk'. Maybe I'll just leave it and have a hand throttle advance as has been suggested.
07-02-2013, 01:46 PM
#15
OM606 in a R107 - awesome!! 
Agree with oyu on the wiring. If I had not realised I needed only two wires connecting - I would have left it out and just turned idle a bit higher
DiseaselWeasel
07-02-2013, 01:46 PM #15Could use a W123 idle knob to make it look period correct OM606 in a R107 - awesome!!
Agree with oyu on the wiring. If I had not realised I needed only two wires connecting - I would have left it out and just turned idle a bit higher
07-02-2013, 01:48 PM
#16
(07-02-2013, 01:35 PM)Mark_M(07-02-2013, 11:52 AM)barrote if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.The engine is a 606 so it should have an ECU. The only temp sender on it that I know of is a 2 pin thermistor type so needs electronics to read it accurately . There is a blank at the front of the head that you could screw something into I suppose. I was going to use it for a standard temp sender for stock gauges.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
No idea what is screwed into the 603 though which is what the pump will be from.
Personally I would go for one of the cheap small Arduino boards hook an analogue pin up to the thermistor sensor and a PWM pin up to a transistor power circuit. Bit of straightforward code and you have a PWM controler based on temperature. You obviously need to work out values so it works properly. You could also use the existing flywheel sensor and count rpm so you can control idle fully. That's a bit more complicated though.
There is a spare place at the rear end of the head for another sender. As you point out there is one at the front and I have already got an extra temp gauge running from that. The original M110 sender screwed straight into the hole where the two pin thermistor came out which allows the use of the original temp gauge in the cluster without any mods. Any mention of Arduino boards et al have me spinning. Way above my head
. The pump's off a 606.910 W124 BTW, not a 603. I just got the revcounter working yesterday from a CPS reading the flywheel segments and acting through an ignition control box amplifier from a W201 2.6. .
(07-02-2013, 01:46 PM)DiseaselWeasel Could use a W123 idle knob to make it look period correct
Didn't know a W123D had a knob for idle advance. Does that simply work on the throttle linkage or does it do something inside the pump..maybe where the later ELR is?
OM606 in an R107? Yeh
. 20months work. Manual Getrag dog-leg box, 2.47 diff from a 380SEL, one piece driveshaft,,,and a hundred other things. Might do a thread on it one day. ![[Image: badges005_zpse2cc806e.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/300TD/badges005_zpse2cc806e.jpg.html)
![[Image: badges004_zpscb103f99.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/300TD/badges004_zpscb103f99.jpg.html)
.
This post was last modified: 07-02-2013, 01:56 PM by Druk.
(07-02-2013, 01:35 PM)Mark_M(07-02-2013, 11:52 AM)barrote if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.The engine is a 606 so it should have an ECU. The only temp sender on it that I know of is a 2 pin thermistor type so needs electronics to read it accurately . There is a blank at the front of the head that you could screw something into I suppose. I was going to use it for a standard temp sender for stock gauges.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
No idea what is screwed into the 603 though which is what the pump will be from.
Personally I would go for one of the cheap small Arduino boards hook an analogue pin up to the thermistor sensor and a PWM pin up to a transistor power circuit. Bit of straightforward code and you have a PWM controler based on temperature. You obviously need to work out values so it works properly. You could also use the existing flywheel sensor and count rpm so you can control idle fully. That's a bit more complicated though.
There is a spare place at the rear end of the head for another sender. As you point out there is one at the front and I have already got an extra temp gauge running from that. The original M110 sender screwed straight into the hole where the two pin thermistor came out which allows the use of the original temp gauge in the cluster without any mods. Any mention of Arduino boards et al have me spinning. Way above my head
. The pump's off a 606.910 W124 BTW, not a 603. I just got the revcounter working yesterday from a CPS reading the flywheel segments and acting through an ignition control box amplifier from a W201 2.6. .
(07-02-2013, 01:46 PM)DiseaselWeasel Could use a W123 idle knob to make it look period correct
Didn't know a W123D had a knob for idle advance. Does that simply work on the throttle linkage or does it do something inside the pump..maybe where the later ELR is?
OM606 in an R107? Yeh
. 20months work. Manual Getrag dog-leg box, 2.47 diff from a 380SEL, one piece driveshaft,,,and a hundred other things. Might do a thread on it one day. .
07-02-2013, 02:25 PM
#17
Wow - proper tidy conversion!!
Would love to read more about it
DiseaselWeasel
07-02-2013, 02:25 PM #17Yes, the diesels have it. But IIRC it acts only on the linkage. http://www.abload.de/img/pict0128t7zm.jpg
Wow - proper tidy conversion!! Would love to read more about it
07-02-2013, 02:36 PM
#18
14v, 3.7A. Actual charging volts or there abouts.
13v, 3.3A
12v, 3.0A
11v, 2.8A
10v, 2.6A
9v, 2.4A
8v, 2.2A
7v, 1.8A
6v, 1.4A
Just for info my pump has the anti jerk as well and that's about 2A higher all the way through the range.
I have plotted the load values for you bellow. From the results and the rapid climb on the higher voltages I would agree that full voltage isn't a good idea for long. There is also little point in going bellow 7v as I can't feel any movement bellow that point.
14v, 3.7A. Actual charging volts or there abouts.
13v, 3.3A
12v, 3.0A
11v, 2.8A
10v, 2.6A
9v, 2.4A
8v, 2.2A
7v, 1.8A
6v, 1.4A
Just for info my pump has the anti jerk as well and that's about 2A higher all the way through the range.
07-03-2013, 12:14 AM
#20
dieselmeken
07-03-2013, 12:14 AM #20Sorry for misinformation, when I drive pumps i bench I do 12 v on the ELR to check high idle. I was wrong. / GÖran
07-03-2013, 03:33 AM
#21
(07-02-2013, 01:48 PM)DrukThat conversion is lush!(07-02-2013, 01:35 PM)Mark_M(07-02-2013, 11:52 AM)barrote if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.The engine is a 606 so it should have an ECU. The only temp sender on it that I know of is a 2 pin thermistor type so needs electronics to read it accurately . There is a blank at the front of the head that you could screw something into I suppose. I was going to use it for a standard temp sender for stock gauges.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
No idea what is screwed into the 603 though which is what the pump will be from.
Personally I would go for one of the cheap small Arduino boards hook an analogue pin up to the thermistor sensor and a PWM pin up to a transistor power circuit. Bit of straightforward code and you have a PWM controler based on temperature. You obviously need to work out values so it works properly. You could also use the existing flywheel sensor and count rpm so you can control idle fully. That's a bit more complicated though.
There is a spare place at the rear end of the head for another sender. As you point out there is one at the front and I have already got an extra temp gauge running from that. The original M110 sender screwed straight into the hole where the two pin thermistor came out which allows the use of the original temp gauge in the cluster without any mods. Any mention of Arduino boards et al have me spinning. Way above my head
.
(07-02-2013, 01:46 PM)DiseaselWeasel Could use a W123 idle knob to make it look period correct
Didn't know a W123D had a knob for idle advance. Does that simply work on the throttle linkage or does it do something inside the pump..maybe where the later ELR is?
OM606 in an R107? Yeh
.
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
07-03-2013, 03:33 AM #21(07-02-2013, 01:48 PM)DrukThat conversion is lush!(07-02-2013, 01:35 PM)Mark_M(07-02-2013, 11:52 AM)barrote if i´m not wrong, there should be a place on the engine head for a thermal switch on that engine, or maybe it is there already look aside the temperature probe for engine temp, most bring some thermal swich that cuts vacum or for the aneroid capsule on old mechanichal pumps or for the ECU switch , or the ECU switch is in that place.The engine is a 606 so it should have an ECU. The only temp sender on it that I know of is a 2 pin thermistor type so needs electronics to read it accurately . There is a blank at the front of the head that you could screw something into I suppose. I was going to use it for a standard temp sender for stock gauges.
ECU usualy does not operate with figures rising and droping, uses voltage to know what hapens. so there must be a switch for it (eng cold or eng warm) (eng cold elr gets 12v, eng warm elr gets o volts) or it maybe by steps, (eng cold+gearbox cold ELR gets 12v, eng warm +gearbox cold ELR gets 7volts, eng warm +gearbox warm ELR gets 0 volt) usually is how this things work. otherwise they would have to use a map for it and a processor, and that cost Money and is not reliable.
lets us know if i´m right
regards
FD
No idea what is screwed into the 603 though which is what the pump will be from.
Personally I would go for one of the cheap small Arduino boards hook an analogue pin up to the thermistor sensor and a PWM pin up to a transistor power circuit. Bit of straightforward code and you have a PWM controler based on temperature. You obviously need to work out values so it works properly. You could also use the existing flywheel sensor and count rpm so you can control idle fully. That's a bit more complicated though.
There is a spare place at the rear end of the head for another sender. As you point out there is one at the front and I have already got an extra temp gauge running from that. The original M110 sender screwed straight into the hole where the two pin thermistor came out which allows the use of the original temp gauge in the cluster without any mods. Any mention of Arduino boards et al have me spinning. Way above my head
.
(07-02-2013, 01:46 PM)DiseaselWeasel Could use a W123 idle knob to make it look period correct
Didn't know a W123D had a knob for idle advance. Does that simply work on the throttle linkage or does it do something inside the pump..maybe where the later ELR is?
OM606 in an R107? Yeh
.
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
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