Om60? transplant...
Om60? transplant...
I have a Land Rover Defender 110, 1993 with a 2.5 200tdi engine.
It has 108bhp at stock and roughtly 195 lb/ft (265nm) and its just not doing it for me at the moment. I've tweaked the pump and upgraded the intercooler and upped the boost, but its really not holding its own in traffic.
So I want to throw an OM606 with a 603 pump in the front of it and see how that takes me!
Now I'm not entirely stuck on the 606, I'm open to suggestions/recommendations if the 5 cylinder would be better option for what I want. The main reason I was thinking of the 606 is its reputation for reliability, its tunability and the sound.
The reason I say I'm open to recommendations is I don't want to change from the stock transmission as its going to mean lots of work later on and it will seriously damage resale value.
I'm after roughly 200bhp, using standard engine and turbo components, and no more that 260 lb/ft (350-360nm) to improve drivability and still keep the stock transmission within its safe limits.
Is the 606 the best engine for this or what would your recommendations be. I want something that once I put it in, I can service it, perform the usual maintenance and keep it for the long haul.
A bit long winded I know but hopefully you'll understand what I'm after and can throw your ideas from there.
Thanks in advance!
Mat
Ok... 1st, Hi, I'm Mat from Tullamore, IRL... I've been lurking for a while and looking at a LOT of threads, so I figured the best way to find out what I'm looking for is to ask!
I have a Land Rover Defender 110, 1993 with a 2.5 200tdi engine.
It has 108bhp at stock and roughtly 195 lb/ft (265nm) and its just not doing it for me at the moment. I've tweaked the pump and upgraded the intercooler and upped the boost, but its really not holding its own in traffic.
So I want to throw an OM606 with a 603 pump in the front of it and see how that takes me!
Now I'm not entirely stuck on the 606, I'm open to suggestions/recommendations if the 5 cylinder would be better option for what I want. The main reason I was thinking of the 606 is its reputation for reliability, its tunability and the sound.
The reason I say I'm open to recommendations is I don't want to change from the stock transmission as its going to mean lots of work later on and it will seriously damage resale value.
I'm after roughly 200bhp, using standard engine and turbo components, and no more that 260 lb/ft (350-360nm) to improve drivability and still keep the stock transmission within its safe limits.
Is the 606 the best engine for this or what would your recommendations be. I want something that once I put it in, I can service it, perform the usual maintenance and keep it for the long haul.
A bit long winded I know but hopefully you'll understand what I'm after and can throw your ideas from there.
Thanks in advance!
Mat
Last but not least whatever you do watch your emissions. Not sure what the diesel emissions are like there but I know you guys have a pretty serious MOT/inspection/NCT in general and mechanical injection is a bit more difficult to keep clean when your tuning it.
I am not saying go for the 605 but its an easier fit for you length wise and is every bit as reliable as the 606. Its the same engine minus a cylinder and they seem to be easier to get mechanical pumps for as well. You will get more torque and HP easier from the 606 though if you can squeeze it in there. Watch your sump to dif clearance as well as they have a pretty big sump hanging down from them. As far as getting your trans to fit you have a bit of work to do whatever route you take. Your going to have to weld the back of an LR bell housing to the front of an MB and then work out the clutch plate and pressure plate that will make it all fit. I assume you have an LT77 or R380 in there. Other thing to look at as well is the MB engine will rev a lot higher than the Tdi you have which might leave your gearing a bit tall.
Last but not least whatever you do watch your emissions. Not sure what the diesel emissions are like there but I know you guys have a pretty serious MOT/inspection/NCT in general and mechanical injection is a bit more difficult to keep clean when your tuning it.
Gearing isn't such an issue as I can swap out the Transfer box for one from a discovery, (1.22 ratio as opposed to 1.4) thats usually good for 70mph at around 2,800rpm and there are overdrives available to drop that by another ~20% in 5th for cruising.
How hard would it be to get 200bhp from a 605 and what kind of torque figures would you be looking at?
I also have a ZF 4HP24 sitting in the garage and can get a ZF 4HP22 from a Discovery 1 very easily and cheaply. How hard would they be to fit? Were the ZF Auto boxes ever fitted to the OM60... engines??
I'm guessing that the 605 being one cylinder less is also a 2.5? (Saving aprox €350 per year on road tax... €1,050 for 2.5 €1400 for a 3.0)
Thanks for the reply!!
Mat
To be honest I'm not looking for 100hp/cyl or any where near it. I reckon 200hp is a reasonable amount while still keeping the transmission reliable.
Gearing isn't such an issue as I can swap out the Transfer box for one from a discovery, (1.22 ratio as opposed to 1.4) thats usually good for 70mph at around 2,800rpm and there are overdrives available to drop that by another ~20% in 5th for cruising.
How hard would it be to get 200bhp from a 605 and what kind of torque figures would you be looking at?
I also have a ZF 4HP24 sitting in the garage and can get a ZF 4HP22 from a Discovery 1 very easily and cheaply. How hard would they be to fit? Were the ZF Auto boxes ever fitted to the OM60... engines??
I'm guessing that the 605 being one cylinder less is also a 2.5? (Saving aprox €350 per year on road tax... €1,050 for 2.5 €1400 for a 3.0)
Thanks for the reply!!
Mat
Fitting a ZF would be the same as any other non standard box. Your in the realms of joining 2 bellhousings together. With an auto it could be a bit more difficult since you have to mate flexplate to crank then to torque converter then to box. I don't know too much about autos though so that one is probably best answered by someone in the know.
yes 605 is a 2.5. Man your road tax is expensive!!
200 from a 605 would be easy but on the stock turbo I think its stretching it.
Fitting a ZF would be the same as any other non standard box. Your in the realms of joining 2 bellhousings together. With an auto it could be a bit more difficult since you have to mate flexplate to crank then to torque converter then to box. I don't know too much about autos though so that one is probably best answered by someone in the know.
yes 605 is a 2.5. Man your road tax is expensive!!
One more question... from people who have properly tuned their OM605/606's; what kind of fuel economy are you getting as a daily driver? I'm currently getting around 26-28 MPG (UK Gallon) and was hoping with a nice OM606/605 I'd be able to stay near to that or possibly better (as the engine wouldn't be running at the top of its operating threshold, but hopefully well below that)
Mark_M... Would making an adapter plate to fit between the Original bell housing and the new engine be a viable option or is it really better to cut and weld the bell housings together?
Cheers
Mat
Sorry for the delay... and thanks for the reply!!
One more question... from people who have properly tuned their OM605/606's; what kind of fuel economy are you getting as a daily driver? I'm currently getting around 26-28 MPG (UK Gallon) and was hoping with a nice OM606/605 I'd be able to stay near to that or possibly better (as the engine wouldn't be running at the top of its operating threshold, but hopefully well below that)
Mark_M... Would making an adapter plate to fit between the Original bell housing and the new engine be a viable option or is it really better to cut and weld the bell housings together?
Cheers
Mat
I can't say in all honesty as there are too many variables. Difference between bolt patterns and diameters to name a few, you might end up with bolts inside the bell or on the same ring. You would need to watch your distance between the box face and the block face as well which could mean your input shaft becomes too short. I know the landrovers have a he'll of a length of a bell housing already. Last but not least I don't know how the starter motor mounts and where on your original engine. Cutting up two bells and welding together tends to resolve all these issues in one hit.
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