What is the hose next to the engine fill Cap?
What is the hose next to the engine fill Cap?
is that a crankcase breather? can i put a crankcase breather filter there instead?
thanks
W116Lorinser
02-02-2012, 09:34 PM #1what is the hose that is next to the oil fill cap on the top of the valve cover that connects to the intake tubbing.
is that a crankcase breather? can i put a crankcase breather filter there instead?
thanks
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-03-2012, 08:41 AM #2You can get some heater hose and run a road draft tube if you really want to. The stock setup is pretty sweet, be careful that you don't do anything to restrict the ccv. When I ran a draft tube there was a noticeable amount of airflow.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-03-2012, 08:41 AM)Simpler=Better You can get some heater hose and run a road draft tube if you really want to. The stock setup is pretty sweet, be careful that you don't do anything to restrict the ccv. When I ran a draft tube there was a noticeable amount of airflow.
so does that mean i can just add a crankcase breather filter to the top of the valve cover.
i did a cold air intake system for my turbocharger.
W116Lorinser
02-17-2012, 03:14 AM #3(02-03-2012, 08:41 AM)Simpler=Better You can get some heater hose and run a road draft tube if you really want to. The stock setup is pretty sweet, be careful that you don't do anything to restrict the ccv. When I ran a draft tube there was a noticeable amount of airflow.
so does that mean i can just add a crankcase breather filter to the top of the valve cover.
i did a cold air intake system for my turbocharger.
an OM642 diesel engine now and its working good so far.
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
I tried a filter there once and all it did was seep oil, draft tube or a separator works the best. I am using the oil separator from
an OM642 diesel engine now and its working good so far.
1979 450SEL 6.9 - stock
1960 220SE
111 tube chassis car/undergoing full restoration. Body work in progress. Merging with a 1996 S500 (119 engine, 722.6 trans, and both subframes)
2005 S55 AMG - stock
1999 SLK230 Kompressor - stock
2006 SLK55 AMG - stock
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
02-17-2012, 11:18 PM #5I ran a hose from the valve cover to to the hose between the air filter and the turbo it's how the Earlie cars came stock 79=80 300sd turbo
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-18-2012, 01:24 AM #6You just run it through the turbo? I guess it would keep things nice and oiled up lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Yes, run it through the turbo. That's how both my E300 and the Ford diesel have it run from the factory.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-18-2012, 02:20 PM #8Depending on blow-by, won't runing it through the turbo cause it to be smokey?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
The oil is a fine mist and it's pretty much completely consumed in the combustion process. If you're using a quart every 500 miles, there might be some smoke.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-19-2012, 01:42 AM #10I'll have to think about re-routing it then, the blow-by is so minimal that I routed it below the car instead of going this route in the first place
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
02-20-2012, 03:21 AM #11Running it through the intake gets everything all oily and gummy. Fak that shit. Road draft tube FTW
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-20-2012, 03:50 AM #12Yeah mine seems to be workin pretty good for now
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
On my turbo engine, there is an oil return that goes into the pan, next to the oil return for the turbo. My N/A engine doesnt have it though. Does anyone else have that? Could i plug it and have a draft tube, or what about running the CCV directly to that return?
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
I have a draft hose on the OM603 and initially it ended right below the driver's seat and I could smell it at stop lights with window down. I extended it to the rear tire and much better this way. As previously mentioned, make sure it doesn't get pinched anywhere. there is a lot of flow through it especially under load. Also tends to drip some oil when parked.
There is an oil separator built into the valve cover of OM60X engines. it's not 100% effective, but it's not bad either. A breather would spread residual oil around the top of the cover. A draft tube would spray it on the road, thanks a lot. An external vapor separator may recover some liquid oil, but will do nothing about the CO and unburned HC gasses in the blowby mix. What might be a compromise is to add a vapor separator, but feed the dry gasses back into the turbo input.
1987 Mercedes 190TD
This is an incredibly anti-social thing to do. Crankcase blowby accounts for about 25% of the pollution generated by an engine, returning it to the intake has a major impact on hydrocarbon output, and has next to no performance impact. It pretty much has to be injected in front of the turbo, because there's high pressure behind the turbo.
There is an oil separator built into the valve cover of OM60X engines. it's not 100% effective, but it's not bad either. A breather would spread residual oil around the top of the cover. A draft tube would spray it on the road, thanks a lot. An external vapor separator may recover some liquid oil, but will do nothing about the CO and unburned HC gasses in the blowby mix. What might be a compromise is to add a vapor separator, but feed the dry gasses back into the turbo input.
1987 Mercedes 190TD
anti social? like not logging on to face book? you mean not environmentally friendly maybe
on here with all of the super pumps and high performance diesel modifications world I bet it would be socially accepted
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-15-2013, 11:37 AM #16Actually having it in front of the turbo is a good thing because the turbo pulls the vapor in and reduced cranking losses. plus it just oil. oil vapor in the engine should theoretically increase power just slightly
anti social? like not logging on to face book? you mean not environmentally friendly maybe
on here with all of the super pumps and high performance diesel modifications world I bet it would be socially accepted
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I do remember it drafting up from under the hood at stop lights, I got a lot of funny looks with the smoking car
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-15-2013, 12:56 PM #17Nothing wrong with reducing emissions, especially if it doesn't negatively impact the performance. The one big side effect of a draft tube is that your car's underbody gets coated in oil eventually. For us northerners this is seen as rust prevention, you southerners might view it a little differently.
I do remember it drafting up from under the hood at stop lights, I got a lot of funny looks with the smoking car
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I figure if air is being sucked into the engine crank case oil is less likely to leak out past the seals
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-16-2013, 10:02 AM #18usually you want the crank case under a slight vacuum which is why I've always had it routed in to the intake before the turbo after the filter
I figure if air is being sucked into the engine crank case oil is less likely to leak out past the seals
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
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