Purple turbo 240D
Purple turbo 240D
(06-19-2013, 05:53 PM)willbhere4u If you want it to stay clean replace the axle seals also. They are pretty easy while the CV joints are out
(06-19-2013, 05:53 PM)willbhere4u If you want it to stay clean replace the axle seals also. They are pretty easy while the CV joints are out
(06-20-2013, 11:44 AM)Purplecomputer(06-19-2013, 05:53 PM)willbhere4u If you want it to stay clean replace the axle seals also. They are pretty easy while the CV joints are out
thanks! didnt even know you should change it.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-20-2013, 11:44 AM)Purplecomputer(06-19-2013, 05:53 PM)willbhere4u If you want it to stay clean replace the axle seals also. They are pretty easy while the CV joints are out
thanks! didnt even know you should change it.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
holy shit!
what a day!
been running around all day getting some stuff done while working on the car
so I spent a good chunk of my time jut trying to remove the axles
heres the old compared to the new, I went with the EMPI ones becuase if i ever have to do this job again I just unscrew some bolts off the axle and replace it, no more having to drop the differential, open it up....and such
the differential itself was really clean, I took a flashlight and visually inspected for chips and wear but nothing, I am happy about that at least
probaby two hours later from that point here are the axles installed
left side
right side
maybe tomorrow or monday I will fill it back up with gear oil and mount it. from there I will work on the breaks.
really want to make it to the GTG in Pa on august 24th.
Get synthetic oil it there it defiantly made a difference on my cars mpg after doing the eng trans and diff I got about 2-3 mpg better highway driving
Question,
Do I need to put a seal on the differential cover? The car didn't have one and my pops recommends either using gasket maker or seeing if they do have a seal at the store.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
clean the surface, and put a thin film of RTV on there. Bolt it up and you're good-just DO NOT glop the RTV on, that causes problems.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Finished the CV axles.
Ran out of money so I wont be able to work on the car for a while.
things left to do
-replace the exhaust or at least fix it
-do the rear breaks ( new calipers and hoses)
-fix the front end
-get off my ass and finish putting together the vacuum pump
-fix the front bumper
just to name a few
most of this stuff I could do in a few weeks now that im finished with summer classes
dontations welcome
(06-29-2013, 02:49 PM)Purplecomputer Finished the CV axles.
Ran out of money so I wont be able to work on the car for a while.
things left to do
-replace the exhaust or at least fix it
-do the rear breaks ( new calipers and hoses)
-fix the front end
-get off my ass and finish putting together the vacuum pump
-fix the front bumper
just to name a few
most of this stuff I could do in a few weeks now that im finished with summer classes
dontations welcome
(06-29-2013, 02:49 PM)Purplecomputer Finished the CV axles.
Ran out of money so I wont be able to work on the car for a while.
things left to do
-replace the exhaust or at least fix it
-do the rear breaks ( new calipers and hoses)
-fix the front end
-get off my ass and finish putting together the vacuum pump
-fix the front bumper
just to name a few
most of this stuff I could do in a few weeks now that im finished with summer classes
dontations welcome
(07-07-2013, 01:46 AM)mbz123(06-29-2013, 02:49 PM)Purplecomputer Finished the CV axles.
Ran out of money so I wont be able to work on the car for a while.
things left to do
-replace the exhaust or at least fix it
-do the rear breaks ( new calipers and hoses)
-fix the front end
-get off my ass and finish putting together the vacuum pump
-fix the front bumper
just to name a few
most of this stuff I could do in a few weeks now that im finished with summer classes
dontations welcome
Thin smear of Grey RTV for rear diff. Let it tack then bolt cover on. With the syn and those annulars, odds are you'll never have to futz in that area on this car again.
What might you be looking for parts wise. If it's not too wieldy and in my inventory, it might just be coming your way.
MBZ123
(07-07-2013, 01:46 AM)mbz123(06-29-2013, 02:49 PM)Purplecomputer Finished the CV axles.
Ran out of money so I wont be able to work on the car for a while.
things left to do
-replace the exhaust or at least fix it
-do the rear breaks ( new calipers and hoses)
-fix the front end
-get off my ass and finish putting together the vacuum pump
-fix the front bumper
just to name a few
most of this stuff I could do in a few weeks now that im finished with summer classes
dontations welcome
Thin smear of Grey RTV for rear diff. Let it tack then bolt cover on. With the syn and those annulars, odds are you'll never have to futz in that area on this car again.
What might you be looking for parts wise. If it's not too wieldy and in my inventory, it might just be coming your way.
MBZ123
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The straight piped Garrett sounds great, and has an awesome whine when you shut the car down. But it is a bit loud, I'd toss a straight through muffler on there for good measure. The stock 300D turbo muffler would be a good choice.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-08-2013, 08:15 AM)Simpler=Better The straight piped Garrett sounds great, and has an awesome whine when you shut the car down. But it is a bit loud, I'd toss a straight through muffler on there for good measure. The stock 300D turbo muffler would be a good choice.
(07-08-2013, 08:15 AM)Simpler=Better The straight piped Garrett sounds great, and has an awesome whine when you shut the car down. But it is a bit loud, I'd toss a straight through muffler on there for good measure. The stock 300D turbo muffler would be a good choice.
messed around on my arduino project for the car
the problem i see if that the LCD takes up alot of pin. not sure If Ill have enough for senor. maybe adding another micro controller to control the LCD and another one for all the senors.
anyways, heres a bit of coding mishap and all I got was funky text
fixed it, didnt realize that you cant do the same stuff in java such as having the variable in the same line of code, have to declare it on a another spot
i just have a fixed variable just to try.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Sign me up for one
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-09-2013, 03:49 PM)Simpler=Better Sign me up for one
(07-09-2013, 03:49 PM)Simpler=Better Sign me up for one
(07-09-2013, 04:06 PM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 03:49 PM)Simpler=Better Sign me up for one
im going to need a tester anyway seeing as my car is no longer working.
maybe winmutt can recommend some sensors.
the whole idea is to replace the ashtray like i did with my two gauges but replace those with the LCD screen. the arduino + lcd will take up considerable less space then gauges and should be somehwhat more reliable.
any functions you guys can think of that I should put on this?
Maybe an alarm to warn the driver of high temps or overboost.
(07-09-2013, 04:06 PM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 03:49 PM)Simpler=Better Sign me up for one
im going to need a tester anyway seeing as my car is no longer working.
maybe winmutt can recommend some sensors.
the whole idea is to replace the ashtray like i did with my two gauges but replace those with the LCD screen. the arduino + lcd will take up considerable less space then gauges and should be somehwhat more reliable.
any functions you guys can think of that I should put on this?
Maybe an alarm to warn the driver of high temps or overboost.
(07-09-2013, 10:27 PM)w123love(07-09-2013, 04:06 PM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 03:49 PM)Simpler=Better Sign me up for one
im going to need a tester anyway seeing as my car is no longer working.
maybe winmutt can recommend some sensors.
the whole idea is to replace the ashtray like i did with my two gauges but replace those with the LCD screen. the arduino + lcd will take up considerable less space then gauges and should be somehwhat more reliable.
any functions you guys can think of that I should put on this?
Maybe an alarm to warn the driver of high temps or overboost.
Muahhhaha you are literally making exactly what I bought from ZadaTech. Same LCD, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Has a beeper and LED for overboost and exceeded EGT's. Its out of the car right now, but I am going to reinstall it in the ashtray. The wood on the ashtray will be a false front that can be removed to reveal the LCD gauge installed behind it.
(07-09-2013, 10:27 PM)w123love(07-09-2013, 04:06 PM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 03:49 PM)Simpler=Better Sign me up for one
im going to need a tester anyway seeing as my car is no longer working.
maybe winmutt can recommend some sensors.
the whole idea is to replace the ashtray like i did with my two gauges but replace those with the LCD screen. the arduino + lcd will take up considerable less space then gauges and should be somehwhat more reliable.
any functions you guys can think of that I should put on this?
Maybe an alarm to warn the driver of high temps or overboost.
Muahhhaha you are literally making exactly what I bought from ZadaTech. Same LCD, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Has a beeper and LED for overboost and exceeded EGT's. Its out of the car right now, but I am going to reinstall it in the ashtray. The wood on the ashtray will be a false front that can be removed to reveal the LCD gauge installed behind it.
(07-10-2013, 08:43 AM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 10:27 PM)w123love(07-09-2013, 04:06 PM)Purplecomputer im going to need a tester anyway seeing as my car is no longer working.
maybe winmutt can recommend some sensors.
the whole idea is to replace the ashtray like i did with my two gauges but replace those with the LCD screen. the arduino + lcd will take up considerable less space then gauges and should be somehwhat more reliable.
any functions you guys can think of that I should put on this?
Maybe an alarm to warn the driver of high temps or overboost.
Muahhhaha you are literally making exactly what I bought from ZadaTech. Same LCD, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Has a beeper and LED for overboost and exceeded EGT's. Its out of the car right now, but I am going to reinstall it in the ashtray. The wood on the ashtray will be a false front that can be removed to reveal the LCD gauge installed behind it.
I remember seeing it on your project thread. did it come with sensors and their part numbers? can I ask how much you paid for it? it im able to do it I would like to perhaps sell it.
I am thinking about getting a 3D printer and custom print an ashtray that would hold all the components.
found their site, the sensors they offer are expensive and they are pretty much just standard ones you find anywhere. to make them work I think I would need an amplifier.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-10-2013, 08:43 AM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 10:27 PM)w123love(07-09-2013, 04:06 PM)Purplecomputer im going to need a tester anyway seeing as my car is no longer working.
maybe winmutt can recommend some sensors.
the whole idea is to replace the ashtray like i did with my two gauges but replace those with the LCD screen. the arduino + lcd will take up considerable less space then gauges and should be somehwhat more reliable.
any functions you guys can think of that I should put on this?
Maybe an alarm to warn the driver of high temps or overboost.
Muahhhaha you are literally making exactly what I bought from ZadaTech. Same LCD, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Has a beeper and LED for overboost and exceeded EGT's. Its out of the car right now, but I am going to reinstall it in the ashtray. The wood on the ashtray will be a false front that can be removed to reveal the LCD gauge installed behind it.
I remember seeing it on your project thread. did it come with sensors and their part numbers? can I ask how much you paid for it? it im able to do it I would like to perhaps sell it.
I am thinking about getting a 3D printer and custom print an ashtray that would hold all the components.
found their site, the sensors they offer are expensive and they are pretty much just standard ones you find anywhere. to make them work I think I would need an amplifier.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-10-2013, 09:34 AM)Simpler=Better(07-10-2013, 08:43 AM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 10:27 PM)w123love Muahhhaha you are literally making exactly what I bought from ZadaTech. Same LCD, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Has a beeper and LED for overboost and exceeded EGT's. Its out of the car right now, but I am going to reinstall it in the ashtray. The wood on the ashtray will be a false front that can be removed to reveal the LCD gauge installed behind it.
I remember seeing it on your project thread. did it come with sensors and their part numbers? can I ask how much you paid for it? it im able to do it I would like to perhaps sell it.
I am thinking about getting a 3D printer and custom print an ashtray that would hold all the components.
found their site, the sensors they offer are expensive and they are pretty much just standard ones you find anywhere. to make them work I think I would need an amplifier.
Shops will print things for you cheaper than you would think, you shouldn't have any trouble finding prototype shops being to close to NYC
(07-10-2013, 09:34 AM)Simpler=Better(07-10-2013, 08:43 AM)Purplecomputer(07-09-2013, 10:27 PM)w123love Muahhhaha you are literally making exactly what I bought from ZadaTech. Same LCD, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Has a beeper and LED for overboost and exceeded EGT's. Its out of the car right now, but I am going to reinstall it in the ashtray. The wood on the ashtray will be a false front that can be removed to reveal the LCD gauge installed behind it.
I remember seeing it on your project thread. did it come with sensors and their part numbers? can I ask how much you paid for it? it im able to do it I would like to perhaps sell it.
I am thinking about getting a 3D printer and custom print an ashtray that would hold all the components.
found their site, the sensors they offer are expensive and they are pretty much just standard ones you find anywhere. to make them work I think I would need an amplifier.
Shops will print things for you cheaper than you would think, you shouldn't have any trouble finding prototype shops being to close to NYC
rainy day and ive been really into arduino now. figured out how to read data from a sensor and also figured out how to display that shit on an LCD
check it son
so I tried to make myself useful today and finished rebuilding the vacuum pump.
the reason I havent finished it was because of that stupid plastic sleeve but I said forget it and rebuilt it without it.
I am probably going to install friday and see if I can get the car started and running for a bit just to make sure the pump works fine.
So today I installed the vacuum pump, Hooked everything back up and while doing this I was charging the battery.
I took the key, prayed while the glow plugs were heating up and went for it.
CLUG CLUG CLUG CLUG (Diesel engine noise)
THE NOISE, THE SMELL, THE WHISTLING OF THE TURBO!
It brought back life in me that I thought I had once lost. I feel so exhilarated, so happy, so proud of myself. as I sat in the driver seat I wondered why I had ever put off working on this car.
For now I am going to finish the rear breaks and align the exhaust. Maybe during the fall I will fix the front end suspension and do the A/C before next summer.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Congrats! There's nothing more satisfying than the CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK when you're done working
The brakes are easy, just don't break anything while you're in there.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-26-2013, 12:44 PM)Simpler=Better Congrats! There's nothing more satisfying than the CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK when you're done working
The brakes are easy, just don't break anything while you're in there.
(07-26-2013, 12:44 PM)Simpler=Better Congrats! There's nothing more satisfying than the CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK when you're done working
The brakes are easy, just don't break anything while you're in there.
(07-26-2013, 03:44 PM)JB3(07-26-2013, 12:44 PM)Simpler=Better Congrats! There's nothing more satisfying than the CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK when you're done working
The brakes are easy, just don't break anything while you're in there.
worst case scenario you can cap off a wheel or two.
*My lawyers tell me that the above comment should only be taken in jest, and I accept no personal responsibility for any personal harm or property damage that results in application of the above jest in a real world setting.*
Having reduced my liability, I will say that I drove around for 6 months while in tech school with 3 wheel brakes and one line capped off waiting on a caliper (or the money to buy the caliper more accurately).
(07-26-2013, 03:44 PM)JB3(07-26-2013, 12:44 PM)Simpler=Better Congrats! There's nothing more satisfying than the CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK when you're done working
The brakes are easy, just don't break anything while you're in there.
worst case scenario you can cap off a wheel or two.
*My lawyers tell me that the above comment should only be taken in jest, and I accept no personal responsibility for any personal harm or property damage that results in application of the above jest in a real world setting.*
Having reduced my liability, I will say that I drove around for 6 months while in tech school with 3 wheel brakes and one line capped off waiting on a caliper (or the money to buy the caliper more accurately).
Im currently stripping a parts car that has some good OEM calipers on it if you are interested I could mail you for bargain basement price. I recently drove this car up from NY and wasn't killed as far as I can recall, so they seem to work well enough.
(07-30-2013, 04:10 PM)JB3 Im currently stripping a parts car that has some good OEM calipers on it if you are interested I could mail you for bargain basement price. I recently drove this car up from NY and wasn't killed as far as I can recall, so they seem to work well enough.
(07-30-2013, 04:10 PM)JB3 Im currently stripping a parts car that has some good OEM calipers on it if you are interested I could mail you for bargain basement price. I recently drove this car up from NY and wasn't killed as far as I can recall, so they seem to work well enough.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
You're not picky, you just don't want to do it twice.
Protip: if you're driving offroad and blow a brake line, a quick fix is to get a 6" preformed line from the autoparts store, cut it to 2", crimp it down over itself a few times, and install on the MC to block off the blown line. I have one in my toolbox in case I blow a rear line and need to limp home.
When it seems like your car is always breaking it's annoying as hell, but you learn to live with imperfection. I'd rather have my old jalopy than all the nightmares and costs of a 2013 model. Plus it's already been proven-you know the weak spots (vac pump, oil cooler lines, etc.) on an old one.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
okay!
so I ordered the rest of the parts for the rear breaks.
Shoutout to JB3 for being so kind enough to offer me used calipers at a great price (i turned them down though cause I was snobby and wanted new )
so I got everything installed, new hoses, calipers and pads. cleaned the rust off my rotors, bled the system and took it for a quick spin.
breaks are weak, (need to keep bleeding it)
and the worst thing is, this shit wobbles when you drive in the back. I suspect something is up the new axels. maybe wrong size? I dunno. I have a bbq today so ill take a look some other day.
in the meantime, any ideas on the wobble issue?
Is there persistent wobble? Sometimes I'm driving at a low speed and feel a wobble in the rear. Never had any problems at high speed. Maybe just on turning at low speed I feel some weirdness in the rear.
(08-24-2013, 04:15 PM)larsalan Is there persistent wobble? Sometimes I'm driving at a low speed and feel a wobble in the rear. Never had any problems at high speed. Maybe just on turning at low speed I feel some weirdness in the rear.
(08-24-2013, 04:15 PM)larsalan Is there persistent wobble? Sometimes I'm driving at a low speed and feel a wobble in the rear. Never had any problems at high speed. Maybe just on turning at low speed I feel some weirdness in the rear.
Update
I checked for the reason concering the wobble in the rear end. turns out I forgot to tighten all my lug nuts on the driver side tire
anyway, i have spent the past two days changing the brake hoses on the front end. Because it was sitting so long, everything kinda got rusted together. I was able to finish the passenger side no problem but I ran into a major issue on my driver side.
The bolt holding down the brake hose got stripped and I ended up breaking the steel brake line in half
Had to grind it off
Do you guys think it was really necessary to change the hoses? They were all original to the car.
Have to wait until Wednesday to order parts.
Those rubber brake lines can dry crack, bubble, or internally delaminate causing brake drag or other problems.
They are getting on in years, so problems are more likely, so it was probably a good bit of preventative maintenance to take care of them.
Sucks that you have have to replace the steel line, but at least the driver side is a lot shorter and should be easy to replace it
(08-28-2013, 01:12 PM)JB3 Those rubber brake lines can dry crack, bubble, or internally delaminate causing brake drag or other problems.
They are getting on in years, so problems are more likely, so it was probably a good bit of preventative maintenance to take care of them.
Sucks that you have have to replace the steel line, but at least the driver side is a lot shorter and should be easy to replace it
(08-28-2013, 01:12 PM)JB3 Those rubber brake lines can dry crack, bubble, or internally delaminate causing brake drag or other problems.
They are getting on in years, so problems are more likely, so it was probably a good bit of preventative maintenance to take care of them.
Sucks that you have have to replace the steel line, but at least the driver side is a lot shorter and should be easy to replace it
(08-28-2013, 01:12 PM)JB3 Those rubber brake lines can dry crack, bubble, or internally delaminate causing brake drag or other problems.
They are getting on in years, so problems are more likely, so it was probably a good bit of preventative maintenance to take care of them.
Sucks that you have have to replace the steel line, but at least the driver side is a lot shorter and should be easy to replace it
(08-28-2013, 01:12 PM)JB3 Those rubber brake lines can dry crack, bubble, or internally delaminate causing brake drag or other problems.
They are getting on in years, so problems are more likely, so it was probably a good bit of preventative maintenance to take care of them.
Sucks that you have have to replace the steel line, but at least the driver side is a lot shorter and should be easy to replace it
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Get some flare wrenches from harbor freight, both Us an dmetric. Total is like $25, they're totally worth every cent. The only catch is the crappy HF ones have a really big radius on the edge of the hex, and you need to grind them down "clean" yourself. Not a big deal just a heads up.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-28-2013, 01:15 PM)Purplecomputer thanks for the reassurance!
do you still have that parts car? I need a few things from ya.
(08-28-2013, 01:15 PM)Purplecomputer thanks for the reassurance!
do you still have that parts car? I need a few things from ya.
(08-28-2013, 01:56 PM)Simpler=Better Get some flare wrenches from harbor freight, both Us an dmetric. Total is like $25, they're totally worth every cent. The only catch is the crappy HF ones have a really big radius on the edge of the hex, and you need to grind them down "clean" yourself. Not a big deal just a heads up.
(08-28-2013, 02:07 PM)JB3(08-28-2013, 01:15 PM)Purplecomputer thanks for the reassurance!
do you still have that parts car? I need a few things from ya.
I junked it, but what are you looking for? I stripped it fairly well, but a lot of stuff has already been dispersed or saved. I still have those rear calipers for instance
(08-28-2013, 02:07 PM)JB3(08-28-2013, 01:15 PM)Purplecomputer thanks for the reassurance!
do you still have that parts car? I need a few things from ya.
I junked it, but what are you looking for? I stripped it fairly well, but a lot of stuff has already been dispersed or saved. I still have those rear calipers for instance
(08-28-2013, 01:56 PM)Simpler=Better Get some flare wrenches from harbor freight, both Us an dmetric. Total is like $25, they're totally worth every cent. The only catch is the crappy HF ones have a really big radius on the edge of the hex, and you need to grind them down "clean" yourself. Not a big deal just a heads up.
(08-28-2013, 02:07 PM)JB3(08-28-2013, 01:15 PM)Purplecomputer thanks for the reassurance!
do you still have that parts car? I need a few things from ya.
I junked it, but what are you looking for? I stripped it fairly well, but a lot of stuff has already been dispersed or saved. I still have those rear calipers for instance
(08-28-2013, 02:07 PM)JB3(08-28-2013, 01:15 PM)Purplecomputer thanks for the reassurance!
do you still have that parts car? I need a few things from ya.
I junked it, but what are you looking for? I stripped it fairly well, but a lot of stuff has already been dispersed or saved. I still have those rear calipers for instance
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
making your own lines from "cunifer" tubing is a priceless skill to have. cunifer is copper/nickle, so no rust and its easy to bend. seriously, flaring lines is a very important skill to have. a flare kit can be rented or bought fairly cheaply
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-28-2013, 05:32 PM)Simpler=Better making your own lines from "cunifer" tubing is a priceless skill to have. cunifer is copper/nickle, so no rust and its easy to bend. seriously, flaring lines is a very important skill to have. a flare kit can be rented or bought fairly cheaply
(08-28-2013, 05:32 PM)Simpler=Better making your own lines from "cunifer" tubing is a priceless skill to have. cunifer is copper/nickle, so no rust and its easy to bend. seriously, flaring lines is a very important skill to have. a flare kit can be rented or bought fairly cheaply
(08-29-2013, 10:35 AM)Purplecomputer(08-28-2013, 05:32 PM)Simpler=Better making your own lines from "cunifer" tubing is a priceless skill to have. cunifer is copper/nickle, so no rust and its easy to bend. seriously, flaring lines is a very important skill to have. a flare kit can be rented or bought fairly cheaply
turns out I have a kit in my garage. ill give it a shot when I can afford to buy materials. where can I buy the adapters to screw it into the hole?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-29-2013, 10:35 AM)Purplecomputer(08-28-2013, 05:32 PM)Simpler=Better making your own lines from "cunifer" tubing is a priceless skill to have. cunifer is copper/nickle, so no rust and its easy to bend. seriously, flaring lines is a very important skill to have. a flare kit can be rented or bought fairly cheaply
turns out I have a kit in my garage. ill give it a shot when I can afford to buy materials. where can I buy the adapters to screw it into the hole?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Unless your car is different than my '91. The nuts for the brake lines are M10x1.0 bubble flare nuts for 3/16"=4.75mm line.
Pack of 5 from Autozone is $2.99 around here.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accesso...44779_0_0_
okay!
Got paid wednesday and bought parts that same day.
I just got some new steel brake line (cunifer was to rich for my blood)
The auto part had an already made line that I just put a few more bends to make it fit.
I also covered it in underbody paint
really sloppy job with that
breaks are all done now and I installed a new power steering belt. took it for a test drive. the breaks need to be bled a little more but Its a PITA to bleed brakes by myself. might get that bleeding kit from HF sometime this weekend.
im getting really lazy with pictures so heres this one.
notice how its not going through that little holder tab welded in the car, well yeah I got lazy with that too.
Not sure what the next phase of the project I should tackle.
get all new exhaust
or fix the front of the car (i.e. take off the fenders and everything and try to make it look nice)
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Steel lines are on all my cars
Rework it so it goes through that holder, or slit some fuel line and hose clamp it to the holder. Otherwise it will shake and eventually crack.
If you're bleeding brakes by yourself, leave the bleeders open a little, attach vinyl tubing, and zip tie the vinyl so it's above the resarvoir. Fill the vinyl tubing and the res, let it sit for like 6 hours it *should* bleed itself. <-that procedure is thus far a rumor but I'd like you to test it out for me.
ALSO, YOU FIXED THE BRAKES. WHEN YOU GOT TIRED YOU TOOK A BREAK.
How does this sentance hurt your brain: "Yeah I fixed my rooter so now I have google again" See what I mean?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-06-2013, 03:16 PM)Simpler=Better ALSO, YOU FIXED THE BRAKES. WHEN YOU GOT TIRED YOU TOOK A BREAK.
How does this sentance hurt your brain: "Yeah I fixed my rooter so now I have google again" See what I mean?
(09-06-2013, 03:16 PM)Simpler=Better ALSO, YOU FIXED THE BRAKES. WHEN YOU GOT TIRED YOU TOOK A BREAK.
How does this sentance hurt your brain: "Yeah I fixed my rooter so now I have google again" See what I mean?
(09-06-2013, 04:12 PM)Purplecomputer(09-06-2013, 03:16 PM)Simpler=Better ALSO, YOU FIXED THE BRAKES. WHEN YOU GOT TIRED YOU TOOK A BREAK.
How does this sentance hurt your brain: "Yeah I fixed my rooter so now I have google again" See what I mean?
sorry, didn't realize the spelling mistake. let me fix that. you also spelled sentence wrong....
anyway, tried to remove the driver fender but Its stuck somewhere. I followed diesel giants guide. took my time but it seems to be stuck somewhere up top near the hood.
figured out why Im having such a hard time removing the fender
who ever painted it last time also put some stupid ass thick layer of spongy undercoat that also acts like a glue keeping.
its almost impossible to remove this shit. Im going to have to replace the fender at this point. because its all bent up and dinged from the hammer cause I got pissed off.
(09-06-2013, 04:12 PM)Purplecomputer(09-06-2013, 03:16 PM)Simpler=Better ALSO, YOU FIXED THE BRAKES. WHEN YOU GOT TIRED YOU TOOK A BREAK.
How does this sentance hurt your brain: "Yeah I fixed my rooter so now I have google again" See what I mean?
sorry, didn't realize the spelling mistake. let me fix that. you also spelled sentence wrong....
anyway, tried to remove the driver fender but Its stuck somewhere. I followed diesel giants guide. took my time but it seems to be stuck somewhere up top near the hood.
figured out why Im having such a hard time removing the fender
who ever painted it last time also put some stupid ass thick layer of spongy undercoat that also acts like a glue keeping.
its almost impossible to remove this shit. Im going to have to replace the fender at this point. because its all bent up and dinged from the hammer cause I got pissed off.
Seriously, if I was just a tiny bit more patient I would have realised I can use a sanding tool to gently sand down the undercoat and remove it.
I might just take it to a body shop at this point and have a "professional" do the work for me. Hell might even have it get a fresh coat of paint!
yeah until you see how much they want to do it! lol i just see all that money flushing right down the drain with every extra set of hands that touches anything. not only that im hardly every impressed with what i paid for... at least when i do it myself and it looks/runs like crap i have no one to blame but myself.
(09-06-2013, 08:02 PM)1911diesel yeah until you see how much they want to do it! lol i just see all that money flushing right down the drain with every extra set of hands that touches anything. not only that im hardly every impressed with what i paid for... at least when i do it myself and it looks/runs like crap i have no one to blame but myself.
(09-06-2013, 08:02 PM)1911diesel yeah until you see how much they want to do it! lol i just see all that money flushing right down the drain with every extra set of hands that touches anything. not only that im hardly every impressed with what i paid for... at least when i do it myself and it looks/runs like crap i have no one to blame but myself.
You guys are right.
regardless, I am going to replace the fender cause its all messed up from the paint and I fucked it up big time.
I just realized I cant find these new online! OH SH**
If anyone in has a PERFECT condition light ivory fender they want to send me or if they know of a good source for a replacement one let me know
in the meantime. Im gonna try to fix this mess I made within the week. Ill take pictures of the doody I took on this car tomorrow morning.
Early w123 fenders are glued on! They really suck to get off
(09-06-2013, 11:09 PM)willbhere4u Early w123 fenders are glued on! They really suck to get off
(09-06-2013, 11:09 PM)willbhere4u Early w123 fenders are glued on! They really suck to get off