The Sleeper -- Part Deux
The Sleeper -- Part Deux
Since the Sleeper is headed to VSTECH's from PP tomorrow or Saturday at the latest for the drivetrain swap, I guess this is as good a time to start my new thread. Being impatient, I already started some mods, especially since I have been stuck homebound for a while now.
Here is the Exhaust Manifold I got from Simpler=Better. Here it is bead blasted, front and back. The back shows the weld repair I got today.
I then painted it tonight in my garage, but brought it in because it is going down to about 50 tonight. I followed the directions on the VHT Paint to a "T". Let's see what happens. I need to figure out how to cure it in a oven. My better half is already PO'd over this thing drying inside our home so the oven is totally off limits. I guess if she's home that is. LOL.
Once I get the Sleeper Part Deux home, I plan on installing the mainifolds. I should have my mods to the intake manifold done next week. So, that will be:
1. Mod'd Intake manifold and NON-EGR Manifolds and new header pipe with exhaust system in the months to come;
2. Mananual (Mechanical) Steering Box. Good bye to the parasitic PS Pump and all the mess;
3. The VC will be modified slightly. I plan on buffing this one a little more than the Sleeper's. I been practicing on some smaller pieces and it looks like chrome.
4. EWP is coming very, very soon as well as the electric vaccum pump. The problem is doing these but also installing my 150 amp altenator.
I got the front and rear Euro bumpers going on it thanks to Section 106 and "Im Broke" from PP. I got the mudflaps for the rear also.
So, a bunch of snappies on Sunday !
Your removing the PS and WP for parasitic loss reasons but how much drag are you re-adding through the charging system?
It's a trade-off absolutely, but worst case scenario, I am still ahead by 50% AND I get rid of a lot of pumps and excess baggage in the engine bay.
Even at full blast for drawing juice, I will never hit over 100 amps, but I am really unlikely to have every single electrical item kicking in. So, more likely scenario is 80-85 amps and that will increase my drag by approximateley 3-5 HP. Whereas, the WP and PS and Vacuum pumps collectively draw at least 10 HP. Plus, what's under the hood is to some degree much more simpler and much more compartmentalized for me.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
A word of advice on the VHT paint: It WILL stink your house up like a chemical factory. Properly curing mine made it stick like you wouldn't believe-until it got soaked in salty slush and wasn't ever washed. When I did mine in my apartment I had to air the place out for two hours....the cohabitor at the time was not pleased.
Got an IR thermometer? My turbo car idled at around 200-300°F, you could always cure it on the car and hold the accelerator in place to get the higher temps. Do you have room for a craigslist oven in the garage? Perhaps heating and cooling it on a grill? Really big toaster oven?
Now that those manifolds have been un-bastardized and cleaned up they don't look so bad. Glad they're being used and aren't at risk for being randomly scrapped when my Dad/ Brother go on shop cleaning sprees.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
That paint before the oven has really stunk up the place. My wife is super PO'd right now. LOL.
AND ... the red looks more orange. I am thinking of waiting a week and going with the black or grey.
Your thoughts.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The orange-red looks sexy once cured and installed:
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
you wrapped the down pipe and painted the exhaust mani but you skipped painting the turbo. Spray some of that paint on there and drive it around a few blocks to cook it on. Then go out later and bake it really long.
Oh and paint that wrap too. It's supposed to be soaked in that paint.
(12-07-2012, 10:51 AM)Simpler=Better The orange-red looks sexy once cured and installed:
(12-07-2012, 10:51 AM)Simpler=Better The orange-red looks sexy once cured and installed:
(12-07-2012, 07:40 PM)Greazzer I also think I figured out a way to heat it NOT inside my house. Heard crap all day about that damn paint stink and "over spray" that supposedly got on the kitchen floor. NEVER, and I mean NEVER tell your better half that was intended as a gimick to get her to clean the floor more often. Bad move ... LOL.
OK ... I will keep the orange - red for now.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(12-07-2012, 07:40 PM)Greazzer I also think I figured out a way to heat it NOT inside my house. Heard crap all day about that damn paint stink and "over spray" that supposedly got on the kitchen floor. NEVER, and I mean NEVER tell your better half that was intended as a gimick to get her to clean the floor more often. Bad move ... LOL.
OK ... I will keep the orange - red for now.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
yes I am and i'm starting to feel just like the purplecomputer ... LOL !
Steering box in yet? Oil filter relocated? Minimalist IP linkage? I think I'm sorta inspired by all that stuff being gone cleaning up the engine bay. I can't wait to tear a bunch of useless parasitic crap out when I get under my hood again.
(12-10-2012, 04:06 PM)Greazzer yes I am and i'm starting to feel just like the purplecomputer ... LOL !
(12-10-2012, 04:06 PM)Greazzer yes I am and i'm starting to feel just like the purplecomputer ... LOL !
After my 4th trip yesterday to Charlotte, NC, still NOT done. That car I got -getting rid of is a complete WASTE of time and total POS. The new car is a pretty sweet ride and very nice condition, but what a TIME bandit.
So much for the so-called rebuilt engine just 65-70K miles ago. Nice oil headgasket leak. From the right side of the engine, you can see a pretty gap where the headgasket is missing. I guess the PO forgot to tell me that one. I got a very long list of "I forgot to tell you's ..." going on right now, such as below ...
So much for the 5th speed set up -- the front section of the drive shaft was a 240D HACK JOB ! The PO thought it OK to cut off about 1 + inches of the drive shaft so it would fit. So, no nut or rubber boot. Got pictures but I cannot find them on the cell phone. I will be posting these shortly.
wow.
I was giving you crap on the other forum, but that sure does look like a headgasket is leaking right there. yipe.
How did he cut up the driveshaft? Is the threaded section cut off? I wouldn't think that was possible and have it work! looking forward to pics on that.
I have front driveshaft sections if you need one for resizing. I also know a really reasonable place out in MO which will relengthen and balance one of these driveshafts for a very reasonable price if you don't have a local place. well worth the cost in shipping it out there.
He chopped off at least an inch maybe 2, so I got no threads. There is no nut or boot anymore since there is no room for it. It was wedged in there and done so tightly that I could not remove the rear flex disk. It is sort of "welded" in there. John even pried and banged on it a bunch and no movement whatsoever. So, not to sound the "I told you so routine", but excluding an incredibly short list of a few parts, every single thing one could dream of is screwed up, hacked up, rotted, rusted, and the list goes on and i do have an ever growing list of "I forgot to mention" ... from the damaged FW I now got, to the DS hack job, a totally rotten body, et cet et cet. So, for someone to tell me and the world that his car was "his little gem" and "mechanically sound" and had a "rebuilt engine 65-70K miles ago" and has a 5 speed conversion with all the fix'ens is simply delussional or not so forthright in their description of the car. In any event, I currently have the CORRECT front driveshaft part and that will be a major project very, very soon no matter what. I might need the info you got since I still need another front shaft since I am robbing Peter to pay Paul.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
There is an actual driveshaft place near the Wifey's home town up in PA. Like, the business name is "something something driveline work" and they have a big picture of a driveshaft on the sign.
I'm up there often enough I can get some info if you want it.
In another project, we cut and welded (on a lathe) my Brother's monster project car's driveshaft....by the books it was a 300hp/300tq I6 and it never broke. Had to sell the car for $$ though
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Yes, shoot me the info. I am gathering all the places I can right now. I have to invest more $$ and time for another "I forgot to tell you ..."
(01-07-2013, 10:20 PM)Greazzer He chopped off at least an inch maybe 2, so I got no threads. There is no nut or boot anymore since there is no room for it. It was wedged in there and done so tightly that I could not remove the rear flex disk. It is sort of "welded" in there. John even pried and banged on it a bunch and no movement whatsoever. So, not to sound the "I told you so routine", but excluding an incredibly short list of a few parts, every single thing one could dream of is screwed up, hacked up, rotted, rusted, and the list goes on and i do have an ever growing list of "I forgot to mention" ... from the damaged FW I now got, to the DS hack job, a totally rotten body, et cet et cet. So, for someone to tell me and the world that his car was "his little gem" and "mechanically sound" and had a "rebuilt engine 65-70K miles ago" and has a 5 speed conversion with all the fix'ens is simply delussional or not so forthright in their description of the car. In any event, I currently have the CORRECT front driveshaft part and that will be a major project very, very soon no matter what. I might need the info you got since I still need another front shaft since I am robbing Peter to pay Paul.
(01-07-2013, 10:20 PM)Greazzer He chopped off at least an inch maybe 2, so I got no threads. There is no nut or boot anymore since there is no room for it. It was wedged in there and done so tightly that I could not remove the rear flex disk. It is sort of "welded" in there. John even pried and banged on it a bunch and no movement whatsoever. So, not to sound the "I told you so routine", but excluding an incredibly short list of a few parts, every single thing one could dream of is screwed up, hacked up, rotted, rusted, and the list goes on and i do have an ever growing list of "I forgot to mention" ... from the damaged FW I now got, to the DS hack job, a totally rotten body, et cet et cet. So, for someone to tell me and the world that his car was "his little gem" and "mechanically sound" and had a "rebuilt engine 65-70K miles ago" and has a 5 speed conversion with all the fix'ens is simply delussional or not so forthright in their description of the car. In any event, I currently have the CORRECT front driveshaft part and that will be a major project very, very soon no matter what. I might need the info you got since I still need another front shaft since I am robbing Peter to pay Paul.
I ventured outside for about 30 minutes and its Coldddd .... So, I did very little.
1. The jumper I made works great. Simple plug in and it "jumps" the NSS. Right now, I am looking for the 2 prong deal for the back up lights. I can now get rid of the wires that run through the firewall and out to the trans tunnel. It was very simple , plug-and-play. Here's a picture of it.
2. I decided to NOT sell my real tail light chrome strips and I just installed them. They look 100% better than the dull black rubber deals.
3. I got rid of the 2-point arm rest - door pull and added the 3 pointer. I really like this a lot better than the stock OEM deal.
4. No pictures of the driver side (L) firewall drain tube. I found a really nice one, no cracks so that hole is now plugged up.
Overall, a productive 30 mintues. I put the battery back in and discovered I was missing Fuse #2. Now, my clock works and my dome lights work. Let's see if the battery drains out over night. I doubt I am headed back outside. Too cold and I think my wife is re-getting the flu and I am not far behind her.
Thanks to DeliveryValve and Diesel911 for thier info on the NSS. That was my most productive part of the day !
Drive shafts.
Here are some pictures of the various flavors of drive shafts from a w123. Not sure if others exist.
The top one is the correct one for the 5 speed (Getrag 717.400) The Getrag 717.400 is the only known bolt on 5 speed out there.
The middle one is from a 300D with auto trans
The bottom one is from a 240 D with auto trans
The DS itself is mod'd for grease fittings.
I hope to get the DS in the mail tomorrow to get the middle one correctly sized for the 5 speed before I have a major issue. The ticking time bomb thread comes to mind right now.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Oh your's fine, just don't let the trans slide forward from the rear end
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Weather went from 75-ish+ to a very chilly 40F and windy. So, I decided to complete my Intake-Exhaust Manifold and Exhaust System this weekend before the superbowl since I am now homebound a little with the crappy weather. I also found a "new" exhaust sytem. Still has the stickers on the muffler and resonator. So, my entire exhaust and intake system should be done along with the air box set up. One system down, 9 to go. LOL. I have a pretty aggresive goal to get'er done by end of March; that is, everything!
Here are a few pictures of the the 300D NA manifold. The top side view shows the Welsh Plug where the air cleaner box used to sit and where the air feed used to be into the manifold. The other picture is where the air feed will go. She is bored out to be slightly bigger than the OEM opening. I am going to be using my 84-85 California Airbox, and the inbound port will be for my .75 M+W nozzle for just water injection. The bead blast look is not so hot, so I will buff it this weekend to a mirror look and file down the welding so it will look quasi-factory. The Exhaust manifold is the NON-EGR type, so that will get some VHT paint, most likely black. Not so much love for the orange-red I did on Simpler=Better's manifold.
I decided to keep my 5.5 rims and matching hubcaps and got my alignment on Thursday from the area's old timer. Cannot beat $40 alignments, and your in and out in 30 minutes. Found some tires on CL, so checking them out tomorrow evening. Right now, she really drives incredibly nice and I think with new tires and the 5.5 aluminum rims early next week will be the charm. I scavanged my all new front end suspension parts from my totaled MB of 2 years ago and they will be going in next weekend. They had less than 3,000 miles on them and they still look and even smell new -- I found the box in my garage along with a bunch of stuff I will be selling shortly. It will be a flashback to 1983 as for the driving experience. I can get the old girl up to about 75 and smooth as glass right now. I got a lot of accelerator left after VSTECH fixed my accerator linkage. Still looking for the odds and ends for that, but not a major issue now.
I'd love to see how that mani lines up with a turbo in the way. I have one of them manifolds and have never tried to see if it will fit.
This is 300D NA. No turbo for this old girl ... LOL
(02-01-2013, 12:30 AM)larsalan I'd love to see how that mani lines up with a turbo in the way. I have one of them manifolds and have never tried to see if it will fit.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-01-2013, 12:30 AM)larsalan I'd love to see how that mani lines up with a turbo in the way. I have one of them manifolds and have never tried to see if it will fit.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Finally found some time last night to work on the old girl. Over a month or so. Here's a bead blasted and painted battery tray. Not the best investment in time, but I got to do some restoration. My new 50 Plate HE in and it's time for my 3rd WVO system. This time, I have worked out all 4 major issues in any WVO system and I am thinking this will be the last version. Greazzer 3.0 so to speak. I am hoping to find "some" time this weekend to relocate my battery to the trunk and at least mount the new battery tray with HE. This beast should capture most of the engine's free BTUs of heat and keep the WVO at a nice 180F. It holds over a quart. Just looking now for a suitable thermal blanket. I used to have a big piece of UH-1 helicopter thermal blanket material but I guess that got lost in the shufflle over the years. Any one out there with something like this? I need about 4 square feet, give or take. The HE measures 12"x5"x 6"
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I would use some adhesive-backed heat shield material. Something like this (although there are probably cheaper alternatives) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsp-721102/overview
Will you be setup to purge the FPHE?
Are your supply lines heated as well?
I'm always scared by people that run coolant all the way back. IMO electric is the way to go.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
With a 30 plate HE, the WVO never got above 130F with a return to the tank. With this, it will either hit 180F with a return to the tank or I will just loop it back. With the loop set up, I am absolutely guaranteed 180F. Also, the 30" Fattywagon Thermaline before the lift pump is more of a mental warm and fuzzy than effective heating, but instead of wrapping each steel line, I will have just one 30" steel line going diagnally accross the engine bay. No need to purge the HE. The worst case temperature drop is about 5* from the lift pump to the injectors. With my EWP, I can dial in the temp at 185F percisely, plus there is no restriction with no water pump (mechanical) or thermastat.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Weird. I ran a (12? plate?) $85 FPHE and she hit 180*F no trouble at all, with the return going back to the (test 2gal) WVO tank
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
That's why ... you were only heating 2 gallons. Still, that will take a while. If you shoot it back to the stock tank, you will lose a lot heat from the engine to the tank and heating 18 gallons or less. And, the line in the line is really not that effective as you loose more heat than you transfer. I only see that as a benefit or needed if you are in really cold area where you have to heat up the lines to get the grease moving. Also, the WVO does not heat in a linear fashion. It will jump to 125-130 F, then the last 50 degrees is a burden. I am thinking that the 50 plater and its masive surface area will do 180F even without a loop system or a smaller tank. I was initially toying with a 3 gallon WVO tank where the battery sits and just heating and running 3 gallons at a time. However, all that R&D was not worth it. Also, the thermaline from Fattywagon gets incredibly hot, but the surface area on a steel line will not heat the WVO a great deal. Elsbett ran some info on this a while ago, but they went out of business and changed their name in 2010 or so. I wish I saved their tech articles. I ran the steel line heater and it got smoking hot, burn your fingers hot, but its overall heating effectivness was really not that much from what I could tell. I am going to try running a 36" steel fuel line and running the 30" Fattywagon thermaline resistence line in a straight shot on the steel line with insulation. The coolant and effectively harnessing the BTUs from the engine is the real zinger. That is why I am looking for the gauages which have multiple readings. That is the only way to really see how and what is really heating. If I don't need a loop, then I would rather have 2 independent fuel line sets and just a "T" at the lift pump where I can shut off 2 solonoids and turn on 2 solonoids and vice versa. However, with the EWP, I am predicting that my WVO will be up and running, e.g., an entire quart, in about one minute. The thermaline will be heated in that time frame also. So, I will have on command at least 1 quart of WVO at 180* within 1 minute. The one quart is worth about 8 miles+ of driving since I am getting a little over 32 mpg right now. Plus, I like to start and idle my car about one minute before taking off. So, overall, this should work as precisely as I am hoping it will work but then again, I thought that about my two prior systems. Each had their pro's and con's, and hopefully all the little odd ball issues that pestered me are now gone.
(04-03-2013, 07:41 AM)Simpler=Better I'm always scared by people that run coolant all the way back.
(04-03-2013, 07:41 AM)Simpler=Better I'm always scared by people that run coolant all the way back.
(04-03-2013, 12:12 PM)Greazzer That's why ... you were only heating 2 gallons. Still, that will take a while. If you shoot it back to the stock tank, you will lose a lot heat from the engine to the tank and heating 18 gallons or less. And, the line in the line is really not that effective as you loose more heat than you transfer. I only see that as a benefit or needed if you are in really cold area where you have to heat up the lines to get the grease moving. Also, the WVO does not heat in a linear fashion. It will jump to 125-130 F, then the last 50 degrees is a burden. I am thinking that the 50 plater and its masive surface area will do 180F even without a loop system or a smaller tank. I was initially toying with a 3 gallon WVO tank where the battery sits and just heating and running 3 gallons at a time. However, all that R&D was not worth it. Also, the thermaline from Fattywagon gets incredibly hot, but the surface area on a steel line will not heat the WVO a great deal. Elsbett ran some info on this a while ago, but they went out of business and changed their name in 2010 or so. I wish I saved their tech articles. I ran the steel line heater and it got smoking hot, burn your fingers hot, but its overall heating effectivness was really not that much from what I could tell. I am going to try running a 36" steel fuel line and running the 30" Fattywagon thermaline resistence line in a straight shot on the steel line with insulation. The coolant and effectively harnessing the BTUs from the engine is the real zinger. That is why I am looking for the gauages which have multiple readings. That is the only way to really see how and what is really heating. If I don't need a loop, then I would rather have 2 independent fuel line sets and just a "T" at the lift pump where I can shut off 2 solonoids and turn on 2 solonoids and vice versa. However, with the EWP, I am predicting that my WVO will be up and running, e.g., an entire quart, in about one minute. The thermaline will be heated in that time frame also. So, I will have on command at least 1 quart of WVO at 180* within 1 minute. The one quart is worth about 8 miles+ of driving since I am getting a little over 32 mpg right now. Plus, I like to start and idle my car about one minute before taking off. So, overall, this should work as precisely as I am hoping it will work but then again, I thought that about my two prior systems. Each had their pro's and con's, and hopefully all the little odd ball issues that pestered me are now gone.
(04-03-2013, 12:12 PM)Greazzer That's why ... you were only heating 2 gallons. Still, that will take a while. If you shoot it back to the stock tank, you will lose a lot heat from the engine to the tank and heating 18 gallons or less. And, the line in the line is really not that effective as you loose more heat than you transfer. I only see that as a benefit or needed if you are in really cold area where you have to heat up the lines to get the grease moving. Also, the WVO does not heat in a linear fashion. It will jump to 125-130 F, then the last 50 degrees is a burden. I am thinking that the 50 plater and its masive surface area will do 180F even without a loop system or a smaller tank. I was initially toying with a 3 gallon WVO tank where the battery sits and just heating and running 3 gallons at a time. However, all that R&D was not worth it. Also, the thermaline from Fattywagon gets incredibly hot, but the surface area on a steel line will not heat the WVO a great deal. Elsbett ran some info on this a while ago, but they went out of business and changed their name in 2010 or so. I wish I saved their tech articles. I ran the steel line heater and it got smoking hot, burn your fingers hot, but its overall heating effectivness was really not that much from what I could tell. I am going to try running a 36" steel fuel line and running the 30" Fattywagon thermaline resistence line in a straight shot on the steel line with insulation. The coolant and effectively harnessing the BTUs from the engine is the real zinger. That is why I am looking for the gauages which have multiple readings. That is the only way to really see how and what is really heating. If I don't need a loop, then I would rather have 2 independent fuel line sets and just a "T" at the lift pump where I can shut off 2 solonoids and turn on 2 solonoids and vice versa. However, with the EWP, I am predicting that my WVO will be up and running, e.g., an entire quart, in about one minute. The thermaline will be heated in that time frame also. So, I will have on command at least 1 quart of WVO at 180* within 1 minute. The one quart is worth about 8 miles+ of driving since I am getting a little over 32 mpg right now. Plus, I like to start and idle my car about one minute before taking off. So, overall, this should work as precisely as I am hoping it will work but then again, I thought that about my two prior systems. Each had their pro's and con's, and hopefully all the little odd ball issues that pestered me are now gone.
Hey,
Did you have 2 gauges or one gauge that jumped back and forth with your 2 temp sensors ? I am looking for one gauge that has either a dual read out or can bounce from one sensor to the other ///
(04-06-2013, 08:16 AM)Greazzer Hey,
Did you have 2 gauges or one gauge that jumped back and forth with your 2 temp sensors ? I am looking for one gauge that has either a dual read out or can bounce from one sensor to the other ///
(04-06-2013, 08:16 AM)Greazzer Hey,
Did you have 2 gauges or one gauge that jumped back and forth with your 2 temp sensors ? I am looking for one gauge that has either a dual read out or can bounce from one sensor to the other ///
I used to use a 30 Plate HE which seemed to be the common one used in the WVO community. It got to around 130* but I was returning it to the tank. I am thinking that since this beast is rated at over 200,000 BTUs, and I doubt the engine puts out that many BTUs, I must be capturing all free heat there is from the coolant. This is rated for a 5,000+SF house, so I am betting it will guarantee 180* either with a loop return system or no loop. I prefer no loop at all, just 2 sets of lines with independent returns, but if I have to loop then no biggie. Since the real goal is warmed up WVO within 1 minute, that is why I chose this monster. Maybe overkill but it guarantees my goals. LOL
I picked up the AVL Bund 875 Diesel Fuel Injection Timer / Gun. Very very pleased so far. I need to source the missing cable. This way, I can exactly time the IP without using the drip method or any other method, and I understand this is perhaps the most exact method to time the IP. I also need to translate the owners manual -- it's in German. Since I know ZERO about the IP timing, I can use all the help I can find.
I owe some pictures. The old girl is coming along right now. When I swapped out the bumpers, I discovered some decent rust in the fenders. So, at this point, I truly regret selling the flawless white fenders I had. It seems it always pans out that when I get rid of a part here or there, I suddenly need it ... LOL
Updates thus far:
1. EURO Front and Rear Bumpers
2. Rear Mud Flaps
3. New Oil Pan which was really needed to fix the dip stick tube-- what a PITA!
4. Interior upgrades
Almost ready to wrap up:
1. Electric Water Pump-- HINT, HINT to a well known forum member ... LOL
2. Finalized Greazzer 3.0 WVO system
3. NON-EGR manifolds; painted and modified-- Very happy with this, and my California air box.
4. Euro Rear Headrests
In the next month or so:
Installation of RollGuys A/C Sanden Compressor System. Got the entire sha-bang from Secondaries. Brutal heat coming this way by June 1st ... so time for the R-12 (got my 608 license) and time to chill....
Then, time for some serious restoration before the brutal heat sets in --
1. SOUND PROOFING
2. Interior Dye Time
I will try to get the pictures this weekend. This weekend is my big weekend to catch up on odds and ends since I will be out of commission for a week or so.
(05-01-2013, 07:47 PM)Greazzer I picked up the AVL Bund 875 Diesel Fuel Injection Timer / Gun.
(05-01-2013, 07:47 PM)Greazzer I picked up the AVL Bund 875 Diesel Fuel Injection Timer / Gun.
Flea Bay ...
Found a few hours in the morning to remove the OEM radiator and condensor for some upgrades. It is now officially HOT in sunny S.C.
Removal and demo is pretty straight forward. I cut out a few holes and welded in a few bungs: Electric Water Pump sensor, drain (or pet) cock, and 3/4" return for the Heat Exchanger. I plan on using the auxillary water pump found in the PITA HVAC W123 system. Looks like once I get off my lazy butt, a lot of these projects will just fall into place since they are all somehow interrelated. Once all the mock up, R&D, PITA issues are done, I can move onto the looks of the Sleeper.
Here's the Be Cool 3" also installed. I hate the zip ties. This is just a mock up since it is coming right back out in a few days for the A/C install. Also, once I get my last missing piece for the EWP, the nasty water pump and miscellaneous items are gone forever. Right now the highest priority is the AIR CONDITIONING. I am putting in the Sanden 508. Just need the lines made this week. Missing the A/C right now ...
Since the radiator mock-up worked out pretty well, and I determined how I want to install it, I am now shifting to installing the modified intake manifold with .75 GPH nozzle M+W injection. I need to get some odd ball aluminum pieces in this week, so I am shifting gears a little during the wait. I will post some pictures of the radiator out of the car with the gizmos hooked up, et cet. Down the road, I will be installing a larger radiator which takes up the space where the oil cooler is. That's 1-2 years R&D. Right now, happy with the current Be Cool.
I won't be using the "M" in the M&W set up. Just water. The main purpose is to off set any possible coking or junk caused by burning WVO. Since my WVO will be heated to 180-190 F*, with 2 tank system, I am thinking the junk caused by the chemistry of WVO will be almost none. For those who want to bash WVO/WMO, all I can say is that I got 4 solid years under my belt and never an issue. If you want to bash, then start a thread on it. Otherwise, I'm very satisfied and confident in burning grease.
As you can see, there are some similarities between the mod'd NA intake and the 115 long runner. Other than the 115 looks sexier, I am thinking the modified 300 NA will look very sharp once I sand her down and polish it up on the buffer. Already hit the high spots on the top and she's pretty shiny with just 220 grit. I ground off all the casting lines, tangs, dog ears, and other boo boos. There's one deep gouge that will stay, but that is on the bottom. Otherwise, I am shooting for the chrome look from the buffer wheel. Plus, good by useless EGR valve !
The water injection items are from Devils Own. I really like their stuff. I got the 90* nozzle holder and a ton of line for all kinds of boo boos. I also got the huge 1.6 gallon resevoir out of the Euro W123s so I can run for about a week without fill ups.
Once I sand and buff, I can quickly install. I will post pictures. Supposed to hit mid to high 90's this week, so all work will be from 645-ish to 800 ish before it starts to burn up.
Still waiting on my R12. Other than that the following projects should be done by the end of June: A/C will be done. Radiator upgrades will be done. Manifold and H2O injection will be done. Battery in trunk with quick connects will be done. And, maybe, the EWP. Once I hit that point, I will go full blast on the whole car sound deadening and oil filter relocation.
Although not a performance mod per se, there is a GREAT comfort mod out there. The Sanden 508 A/C Compressor. There are a ton of posts and a few threads from ROLLGUY on PP. I just finished it last night. Although I am a few oz's low on FREON and most likely short on compressor oil, by car is currently hitting 40 - 41 F in the sunny S.C. heat. Just drove it around now and its about 90F and HOT and Humid and the temp's are rock solid inside. I am loving it. I am thinking tomorrow I will evacuate the system and do a re-do to get it perfect. I am hoping for a chilly 38-ish F !!!!!!
I highly recommend ROLLGUY's Kit. He offers exceptional customer service and the kit is absolutely PERFECT. The only thing I would change are the AC lines. Once winter sets in, I am going to get made a truly set of custom lines. However, a great relief from the heat !!!!!!!
(07-16-2013, 12:10 PM)Greazzer Although not a performance mod per se, there is a GREAT comfort mod out there. The Sanden 508 A/C Compressor. There are a ton of posts and a few threads from ROLLGUY on PP. I just finished it last night. Although I am a few oz's low on FREON and most likely short on compressor oil, by car is currently hitting 40 - 41 F in the sunny S.C. heat. Just drove it around now and its about 90F and HOT and Humid and the temp's are rock solid inside. I am loving it. I am thinking tomorrow I will evacuate the system and do a re-do to get it perfect. I am hoping for a chilly 38-ish F !!!!!!
I highly recommend ROLLGUY's Kit. He offers exceptional customer service and the kit is absolutely PERFECT. The only thing I would change are the AC lines. Once winter sets in, I am going to get made a truly set of custom lines. However, a great relief from the heat !!!!!!!
(07-16-2013, 12:10 PM)Greazzer Although not a performance mod per se, there is a GREAT comfort mod out there. The Sanden 508 A/C Compressor. There are a ton of posts and a few threads from ROLLGUY on PP. I just finished it last night. Although I am a few oz's low on FREON and most likely short on compressor oil, by car is currently hitting 40 - 41 F in the sunny S.C. heat. Just drove it around now and its about 90F and HOT and Humid and the temp's are rock solid inside. I am loving it. I am thinking tomorrow I will evacuate the system and do a re-do to get it perfect. I am hoping for a chilly 38-ish F !!!!!!
I highly recommend ROLLGUY's Kit. He offers exceptional customer service and the kit is absolutely PERFECT. The only thing I would change are the AC lines. Once winter sets in, I am going to get made a truly set of custom lines. However, a great relief from the heat !!!!!!!
Since I had no A/C before hand, I really cannot compare. I do notice a very, very slight difference when I turn the AC on, but it's minimal. I need to fine tune it before the weekend, e.g., adjust the belt and re-do the charging process; however, its very nice having AC !
Got the system purged & recharged. On a hot S.C. day, around low 90's and super high humidity-muggy, it will stay rock solid at 40F ... even in traffic at a total standstill for about 20 minutes.
This AM, high 70's, still very very humid and muggy ... and it will dip below 40F. The system seems to like 40F, however, and like it too !
you need to drive this thing up to Benzfest in PA in august so I can see it in person. Definitely a hell of a project! I want to see this monster radiator
Im thinking I want to do the A/C sanden compressor on my DD 240 eventually after reading this. Rollguy makes a nice kit looks like
Get the kit, BUT make sure you get R-12 ports for R12. I got a 508SD old skool compressor. I am thinking next time I will go with the 7 piston pump vs. 5. AND, double condensor. A little overkill, but I love sub 40F air blasting thru the vents at any given time. The radiator ... yes, all aluminum and I am thinking I should have gotten a 27" wide vs. 20", and some other bells and whistles on the radiator. I welded in bungs for sensors, et cet. She's going into the shop this week for some paint work on the front clip and installation of my AMG air chin. Meow.
The old girl is off to the paint guy today. She's getting a new, freshly painted front clip in Pastel Beige, 684-H to match the rest of her:
1. New Fenders
2. New Hood
3. AMG Air Dam (Chin)
4. Any other possible rust on the front clip cleaned up and permantly treated
5. Inner plastic inserts in each wheelwell, re-dyed black
6. Inner wheelwell cleaned up and topcoated in chassis black
7. Front jack points cleaned, and new welds, and "like-new" appearances in the works.
Here's some snappies. She looks sort of sad. I went ahead and ordered the front bumper to fender braces / brackets from the dealer out of Atlanta. Still looking for the black plastic pieces which go on top of the bumper.
I should have the ol' girl back in a week or two.
Here are some close-ups of the fenders and their rot. Soon, all new sheet metal from the firewall foward.
(09-05-2013, 06:44 PM)Greazzer Here are some close-ups of the fenders and their rot. Soon, all new sheet metal from the firewall foward.
(09-05-2013, 06:44 PM)Greazzer Here are some close-ups of the fenders and their rot. Soon, all new sheet metal from the firewall foward.
I got "new" ... there's no fixing those puppies ...