Water injection
Water injection
07-25-2013, 10:21 PM
#1
![[Image: null_zps57b0a0f5.jpg]](http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p677/mfsuper90/mercedes/null_zps57b0a0f5.jpg)
![[Image: null_zps1a3b7075.jpg]](http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p677/mfsuper90/mercedes/null_zps1a3b7075.jpg)
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Anyone run water injection? This is a cheapish setup we run on one of our pulling tractors (no room for an inter cooler and they aren't allowed)
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-26-2013, 07:22 AM
#2
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
07-26-2013, 07:22 AM #2I'm planning to use water/meth injection on my 606. However - Have not sourcesd any part yet...
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
07-26-2013, 09:51 AM
#3
Like I said, the first Hobbs switchs activates the pump, the second hobbs switch is turned on when pressure in the water manifold reaches over 100psi, which then sends signal to a little light on the dash which lets you know that your water injection is on and working.
We also have a 200psi blowoff valve on the side of the manifold to keep from dead heading the pump
Its fun to play with!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
We use a rather simple setup. The Hobbs switch in the crossover pipe is turned on by boost (I think we have it set to ~25psi), which then sends power to the pump. We chose to put pressure activated check valves in the top of the water manifold (the things with the orange caps on them) They can be set to open and whatever psi you desire, we have them setup to open close to 100psi I believe. They also act as a safety to keep water from accidentily flowing into your intake without you knowing
Like I said, the first Hobbs switchs activates the pump, the second hobbs switch is turned on when pressure in the water manifold reaches over 100psi, which then sends signal to a little light on the dash which lets you know that your water injection is on and working.
We also have a 200psi blowoff valve on the side of the manifold to keep from dead heading the pump
Its fun to play with!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-26-2013, 09:58 AM
#4
Are you running mcmaster sprayers inside the brass guys?
What's up with the tapered restrictive looking way-too-bendy charge pipe?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-26-2013, 09:58 AM #4I've got a nice modified intake with sprayers, only had it on for a short bit though. Nailed like a monster when the mix was wrong.
Are you running mcmaster sprayers inside the brass guys?
What's up with the tapered restrictive looking way-too-bendy charge pipe?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
07-26-2013, 02:59 PM
#5
And here's why the pipe looks like it came off a two stroke dirt bike...
![[Image: null_zpsabbdd38b.jpg]](http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p677/mfsuper90/mercedes/null_zpsabbdd38b.jpg)
![[Image: null_zpsbfe333d9.jpg]](http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p677/mfsuper90/mercedes/null_zpsbfe333d9.jpg)
Needless to say, there is very limited space
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
No, the big brass looking units are the nozzles.
And here's why the pipe looks like it came off a two stroke dirt bike...
Needless to say, there is very limited space
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-26-2013, 03:16 PM
#6
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I had one little 2gph nozzle spraying in on the 617 manifold side of my turbo housing before. I thought it was a pretty neat thing. I might would do it again sometime in the future.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
07-27-2013, 02:31 PM
#7
Simpler,
It is quite possible that on your setup you might have been spraying to close to the ports and not letting it atomize enough. IIRC, you had one nozzle spraying into each port on the head?
The most effecient place for water nozzles is on the outside of the first bend in your crossover pipe, closest to the turbo.
Sounds crazy, but the longer the intake pipe you use from the turbo to intake, the more power it'll make. A couple guys I know running really hot tractors would come out of the turbo, run the pipe clear to the front of the tractor then loop around back to the intake. One of my buddies said it took 14ft of pipe on his! But he said it really really made of difference.
Just food for thought
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I am surprised some of the high HP guys haven't chimed in, I figured at least a couple of them run water/meth.
Simpler,
It is quite possible that on your setup you might have been spraying to close to the ports and not letting it atomize enough. IIRC, you had one nozzle spraying into each port on the head?
The most effecient place for water nozzles is on the outside of the first bend in your crossover pipe, closest to the turbo.
Sounds crazy, but the longer the intake pipe you use from the turbo to intake, the more power it'll make. A couple guys I know running really hot tractors would come out of the turbo, run the pipe clear to the front of the tractor then loop around back to the intake. One of my buddies said it took 14ft of pipe on his! But he said it really really made of difference.
Just food for thought
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-28-2013, 09:17 PM
#8
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
And simpler, I took a look today and those nozzles are s.s. co. Atomization nozzles. I'm pretty sure they are cone type, and I can't remember what size they are. There is one smaller and one larger I do know
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-28-2013, 09:38 PM
#9
Doesn't a super long pipe act as a cheap laggy intercoooler?
No way to modify that turbo and clock it down?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-28-2013, 09:38 PM #9Yeah, my manifold sprays directly into the ports in the head. I really didn't get enough time to experiment with it, I'm hoping to setup WI on the test wagon to play with it again.
Doesn't a super long pipe act as a cheap laggy intercoooler?
No way to modify that turbo and clock it down?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
07-29-2013, 06:39 AM
#10
(07-28-2013, 09:38 PM)Simpler=Better Yeah, my manifold sprays directly into the ports in the head. I really didn't get enough time to experiment with it, I'm hoping to setup WI on the test wagon to play with it again.
Doesn't a super long pipe act as a cheap laggy intercoooler?
No way to modify that turbo and clock it down?
One thing I don't know what a long pipe changes is spool. But these are pulling tractors, so we really aren't worried about spool time, as long as they light.
And my thoughts were always that the longer the pipe, the more time it has to cool down and the water to intermix with the air.
We could clock it down (thats how that are stock, right next to the manifold) but then their is no place for W/M injection. Plus the longer and bigger pipe helped
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(07-28-2013, 09:38 PM)Simpler=Better Yeah, my manifold sprays directly into the ports in the head. I really didn't get enough time to experiment with it, I'm hoping to setup WI on the test wagon to play with it again.
Doesn't a super long pipe act as a cheap laggy intercoooler?
No way to modify that turbo and clock it down?
One thing I don't know what a long pipe changes is spool. But these are pulling tractors, so we really aren't worried about spool time, as long as they light.
And my thoughts were always that the longer the pipe, the more time it has to cool down and the water to intermix with the air.
We could clock it down (thats how that are stock, right next to the manifold) but then their is no place for W/M injection. Plus the longer and bigger pipe helped
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-29-2013, 10:43 PM
#11
Oh by the way, I have my nozzle spraying into the turbo outlet, where the air is the hottest and has the most time to vaporize
This post was last modified: 07-29-2013, 10:45 PM by sassparilla_kid.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-29-2013, 10:43 PM #11I run water/alcohol on my w123, I dig it, there is definitely a noticeable increase in power when I flip the switch, and after running a few gallons through I noticed the engine started to run a little smoother. I have a devil's own setup, with a 3gph nozzle, and if I remember correctly the pump is set to ~200psi or so. Unfortunately I can't remember where my pressure switch is that I ordered, so I have to turn the water injection on manually by now, so I just check my gauge and don't turn it on until I have a minimum of 5psi boost, usually wait until about 7. Since I have to turn it on and off manually I usually only use it for merging onto the freeway.
Oh by the way, I have my nozzle spraying into the turbo outlet, where the air is the hottest and has the most time to vaporize
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
07-29-2013, 11:57 PM
#12
mikes02ls1
07-29-2013, 11:57 PM #12I was thinking of the snow universal meth kit. I wonder if I go this route rather then modifying the front end for a intercooler.
07-30-2013, 08:09 AM
#13
Sassparilla, go pick up a Hobbs switch! haha, they are pretty cheap. And devils own makes a good do it yourself kit for the guys that aren't going all out.
Mikes, If you end up going that route, I think a devils own kit will be cheaper, but just as good.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
There is definitely power to be made with W/M injection. I would say our pulling tractor picked a at least 50hp just by adding W/M.
Sassparilla, go pick up a Hobbs switch! haha, they are pretty cheap. And devils own makes a good do it yourself kit for the guys that aren't going all out.
Mikes, If you end up going that route, I think a devils own kit will be cheaper, but just as good.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-30-2013, 09:31 AM
#14
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-30-2013, 09:31 AM #14I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
07-30-2013, 01:30 PM
#15
(07-30-2013, 09:31 AM)sassparilla_kid I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
Gotta hate when your trunk eats things, and then they get lost for what seems like forever.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(07-30-2013, 09:31 AM)sassparilla_kid I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
Gotta hate when your trunk eats things, and then they get lost for what seems like forever.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
07-30-2013, 01:58 PM
#16
(07-30-2013, 01:30 PM)MFSuper90(07-30-2013, 09:31 AM)sassparilla_kid I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
Gotta hate when your trunk eats things, and then they get lost for what seems like forever.
Try a truck with a cap, you can lose an unbelievable amount of crap
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-30-2013, 01:58 PM #16(07-30-2013, 01:30 PM)MFSuper90(07-30-2013, 09:31 AM)sassparilla_kid I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
Gotta hate when your trunk eats things, and then they get lost for what seems like forever.
Try a truck with a cap, you can lose an unbelievable amount of crap
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
07-31-2013, 05:55 PM
#17
(07-30-2013, 01:58 PM)Simpler=Better(07-30-2013, 01:30 PM)MFSuper90(07-30-2013, 09:31 AM)sassparilla_kid I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
Gotta hate when your trunk eats things, and then they get lost for what seems like forever.
Try a truck with a cap, you can lose an unbelievable amount of crap
Ha! Try a truck with a shell, you can lose even more
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-31-2013, 05:55 PM #17(07-30-2013, 01:58 PM)Simpler=Better(07-30-2013, 01:30 PM)MFSuper90(07-30-2013, 09:31 AM)sassparilla_kid I have a Hobbs switch, it's just buried in my trunk someplace
Gotta hate when your trunk eats things, and then they get lost for what seems like forever.
Try a truck with a cap, you can lose an unbelievable amount of crap
Ha! Try a truck with a shell, you can lose even more
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
08-01-2013, 06:00 PM
#18
(07-29-2013, 10:43 PM)sassparilla_kid I run water/alcohol on my w123, I dig it, there is definitely a noticeable increase in power when I flip the switch, and after running a few gallons through I noticed the engine started to run a little smoother. I have a devil's own setup, with a 3gph nozzle, and if I remember correctly the pump is set to ~200psi or so. Unfortunately I can't remember where my pressure switch is that I ordered, so I have to turn the water injection on manually by now, so I just check my gauge and don't turn it on until I have a minimum of 5psi boost, usually wait until about 7. Since I have to turn it on and off manually I usually only use it for merging onto the freeway.What pump, nozzles etc do you use? Do you have pics?
Oh by the way, I have my nozzle spraying into the turbo outlet, where the air is the hottest and has the most time to vaporize
thanks
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
(07-29-2013, 10:43 PM)sassparilla_kid I run water/alcohol on my w123, I dig it, there is definitely a noticeable increase in power when I flip the switch, and after running a few gallons through I noticed the engine started to run a little smoother. I have a devil's own setup, with a 3gph nozzle, and if I remember correctly the pump is set to ~200psi or so. Unfortunately I can't remember where my pressure switch is that I ordered, so I have to turn the water injection on manually by now, so I just check my gauge and don't turn it on until I have a minimum of 5psi boost, usually wait until about 7. Since I have to turn it on and off manually I usually only use it for merging onto the freeway.What pump, nozzles etc do you use? Do you have pics?
Oh by the way, I have my nozzle spraying into the turbo outlet, where the air is the hottest and has the most time to vaporize
thanks
08-02-2013, 02:23 PM
#19
(08-01-2013, 06:00 PM)tjts1(07-29-2013, 10:43 PM)sassparilla_kid I run water/alcohol on my w123, I dig it, there is definitely a noticeable increase in power when I flip the switch, and after running a few gallons through I noticed the engine started to run a little smoother. I have a devil's own setup, with a 3gph nozzle, and if I remember correctly the pump is set to ~200psi or so. Unfortunately I can't remember where my pressure switch is that I ordered, so I have to turn the water injection on manually by now, so I just check my gauge and don't turn it on until I have a minimum of 5psi boost, usually wait until about 7. Since I have to turn it on and off manually I usually only use it for merging onto the freeway.What pump, nozzles etc do you use? Do you have pics?
Oh by the way, I have my nozzle spraying into the turbo outlet, where the air is the hottest and has the most time to vaporize
thanks
I believe this is the same pump I use
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/pump...-pump.html
and nozzle
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/nozz...s-do3.html
I'll try to post a picture later
This post was last modified: 08-02-2013, 02:24 PM by sassparilla_kid.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
08-02-2013, 02:23 PM #19(08-01-2013, 06:00 PM)tjts1(07-29-2013, 10:43 PM)sassparilla_kid I run water/alcohol on my w123, I dig it, there is definitely a noticeable increase in power when I flip the switch, and after running a few gallons through I noticed the engine started to run a little smoother. I have a devil's own setup, with a 3gph nozzle, and if I remember correctly the pump is set to ~200psi or so. Unfortunately I can't remember where my pressure switch is that I ordered, so I have to turn the water injection on manually by now, so I just check my gauge and don't turn it on until I have a minimum of 5psi boost, usually wait until about 7. Since I have to turn it on and off manually I usually only use it for merging onto the freeway.What pump, nozzles etc do you use? Do you have pics?
Oh by the way, I have my nozzle spraying into the turbo outlet, where the air is the hottest and has the most time to vaporize
thanks
I believe this is the same pump I use
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/pump...-pump.html
and nozzle
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/nozz...s-do3.html
I'll try to post a picture later
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
08-02-2013, 07:36 PM
#20
And I don't think you'd wanna spray before the intercooler cause condensation and corrosion etc..
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I'd love to hook up W/M on my car, but If I get my A/W intercooler on, theres no good place after the cooler to spray.
And I don't think you'd wanna spray before the intercooler cause condensation and corrosion etc..
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
08-02-2013, 08:50 PM
#21
(08-02-2013, 07:36 PM)MFSuper90 I'd love to hook up W/M on my car, but If I get my A/W intercooler on, theres no good place after the cooler to spray.
And I don't think you'd wanna spray before the intercooler cause condensation and corrosion etc..
Do not spray pre-intercooler, it will condense. Soudsn like you need to buy my port injection manifold
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-02-2013, 08:50 PM #21(08-02-2013, 07:36 PM)MFSuper90 I'd love to hook up W/M on my car, but If I get my A/W intercooler on, theres no good place after the cooler to spray.
And I don't think you'd wanna spray before the intercooler cause condensation and corrosion etc..
Do not spray pre-intercooler, it will condense. Soudsn like you need to buy my port injection manifold
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-03-2013, 06:43 AM
#22
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
No thanks, I don't like port injection for W/M. Its not as effective as port injected nitrous
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
08-03-2013, 05:53 PM
#23
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
08-03-2013, 05:53 PM #23Maybe port injection on a long runner w115 manifold, with the nozzles near the top of the runners, otherwise there's no time for the mixture to atomize
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
08-04-2013, 09:46 AM
#24
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Couldn't agree more sarsaparilla. Went to some tractor pulls last night, and several tractors wheat down the track shooting a 12-15" flame out the stack, they REALLY need some water on those things!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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