Another car, chicago, uhhh 300d turbo w/4 speed manual
Another car, chicago, uhhh 300d turbo w/4 speed manual
08-08-2013, 12:48 PM
#101
(08-07-2013, 11:06 PM)lgreeley83 Knowing well the back bolt on the IP was going to be a bastard I began that today with mentality that soon the pump comes off. That bolt sucks. I broke it loose but will try a ratcheting wrench.
I've got
M fuel lines
M throttle linkage
IP gasket
Oil line block off bolt
IP wrench
Spined socket for dv removal
Drip tool
27mm for crankshaft turning
17mm crowfoot
I think I'm ready?
26 BTDC lobes up!
Roll cage and 6pt harness installed?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-08-2013, 12:48 PM #101(08-07-2013, 11:06 PM)lgreeley83 Knowing well the back bolt on the IP was going to be a bastard I began that today with mentality that soon the pump comes off. That bolt sucks. I broke it loose but will try a ratcheting wrench.
I've got
M fuel lines
M throttle linkage
IP gasket
Oil line block off bolt
IP wrench
Spined socket for dv removal
Drip tool
27mm for crankshaft turning
17mm crowfoot
I think I'm ready?
26 BTDC lobes up!
Roll cage and 6pt harness installed?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-08-2013, 12:56 PM
#102
(08-08-2013, 12:48 PM)Simpler=Better Roll cage and 6pt harness installed?
lol my seat it about to fall through the rusted floor. No passenger seat belt....
Reading that is the rack damper bolt in the other picture. I guess i gotta read to know if I can remove that temporarily.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-08-2013, 12:56 PM #102(08-08-2013, 12:48 PM)Simpler=Better Roll cage and 6pt harness installed?
lol my seat it about to fall through the rusted floor. No passenger seat belt....
Reading that is the rack damper bolt in the other picture. I guess i gotta read to know if I can remove that temporarily.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-08-2013, 03:07 PM
#103
If you need to run without the rack damper you can, just plug the hole with something and expect a rough idle.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-08-2013, 03:07 PM #103You can clear the rack damper bolt. Just take the shutoff valve off before trying to pull the IP.
If you need to run without the rack damper you can, just plug the hole with something and expect a rough idle.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-08-2013, 03:53 PM
#104
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-08-2013, 03:53 PM #104Got the pump out. About to throw the Dieselmeken in. What should I do with the electric crap that was on the engine side of the pump?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-08-2013, 07:10 PM
#106
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-08-2013, 07:10 PM #1061st time go! Rollin coal.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-08-2013, 08:25 PM
#107
Save that IP, you can always sell a good IP on eb*y
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-08-2013, 08:25 PM #107Wooooooooooooooo!!!!
Save that IP, you can always sell a good IP on eb*y
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-08-2013, 11:17 PM
#108
60 trim garret is pushing 18 psi right now. Adjustments coming soon to limit some fuel.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-08-2013, 11:17 PM #108Yeah wooooooo!!!!! I got the 6mm. After paying I was think maybe I should have got the 7.5mm pump but.... 6mm is good I've got more fuel than I know what to do with right now. I need more air!
60 trim garret is pushing 18 psi right now. Adjustments coming soon to limit some fuel.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-12-2013, 06:32 PM
#109
Can you post what threads and data you referenced to time the pump? I eventually want to get an M pump for my 115, never took a pump off though
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
No pics!? What the hell
Can you post what threads and data you referenced to time the pump? I eventually want to get an M pump for my 115, never took a pump off though
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-12-2013, 07:47 PM
#110
Some folks custom bend the injector lines and customize the throttle linkage but I hunted and found the original stuff, time saved on install but I spent a good time hunting for the stuff.
I did not remove the oil filter housing. There is a bolt back there that is horribly annoying to get to but I got it. Ratcheting wrench would not fit. I removed the fuel shutoff valve and rack dampener bolt to get clearance to pull it off however I was told I wouldn't have to remove the rack dampener. One bolt so I did it anyways no biggie.
Drip timing is touchy, that's where I crossed my fingers a bit. Its either not flowing at all or its a stream. The one drip per second is a very fine line that touches extreme either way you move it. Pushing towards the block advances the pump so I leaned that direction.
A bolt is required to seal off an oil feed line to the M pump. I think 8mm x 1 course. Maybe 8mm x 1.25. I forget.
Car has some serious mojo now. I have a bracket I've yet to install but soon will to limit max fuel. My egts get high quick. I am pouring clouds of black smoke when I floor it even at 18psi boost.
Blahhh ha ha ha!!!!!!! Dieselmeken for the win!
Post links and pics in a min.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thre...oil+filter
Initial setting for injection pump
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-3486.html
how do you time this damn pump
I know i had more links i was referencing but I like these a lot and cant remember the others. I don't have a manual but 24 BTDC is what ive read is stock timing.
It's pretty straight forward, I was intimidated by the project but it really wasn't that bad. Just that stupid back bolt ugh. 13mm of all kinds i would have. 90 deg 45 deg, sockets, extentions, s shaped, really anything 13 mm you have laying around you should get i think. Go to a swap meet or something and buy a bunch for a few dollars.
Pictures!
Before recent mods (M pump, valve cover yellow, no power steering)
After
Painted headlight bezels clear corners
Thinking of trying to move fuel filter mount, i wonder how a vehicle stock with no power steering mounted the fuel filter with no need for a power steering bracket. The bolts seems the same distance apart however, i haven't measured yet. Ill get around to it.
When i pull side trim I also ditched the 300d and Turbo diesel badges. Debating whether or not to lose the merc symbol too. I may cut the outer ring off.
and no i didn't black out the tail light, its just covered in soot.
Yellow valve cover because I asked my wife what color it should be and she said yellow. Anything to keep her partially interested in the ride.
Oh yeah side note... I finally got all my doors to lock today. I had an unlocked car for two years. I never left anything in it. In doing that I gutted every vacuum lined for the locks, trunk, and fuel door.
In doing that I got a look at what I've been in denial about for a while, rust in my floor. I knew it was getting worse because my seat is sagging more these days. That under body rubber is a good hiding trick. I post pics later on it, the one I took today came out like crap.
Also... More about pump, I still haven't measured chain stretch or can timing. I know "wtf idiot!" I assume my can timing is off. Before pump swap I think my pump may have had retarded timing. I always had great smoke. No coolant loss. Now with advanced pump I smoke black at the lightest touch of the pedal. Yeah I've got more fuel but I doubt it should be that bad when lightly touching pedal. Also idle smoke is less than before almost none. Still playing with fuel. Trying to find max sweet spot so I can floor it on the highway without melting things.the garret 60 trim characteristics seem to be similar to before. Boost to 18psi is quick but I don't think I am going to destroy the turbo. Than again I have no clue of what I'm doing lol.
This post was last modified: 08-12-2013, 08:31 PM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-12-2013, 07:47 PM #110I was done in a little over four hours. Sorta crossed my fingers with the timing but I got it advanced to 26 BTDC. Getting the crank in the right position would probably be easier with 2 people but in reality it probably only added 5-10 minutes doing it by myself.
Some folks custom bend the injector lines and customize the throttle linkage but I hunted and found the original stuff, time saved on install but I spent a good time hunting for the stuff.
I did not remove the oil filter housing. There is a bolt back there that is horribly annoying to get to but I got it. Ratcheting wrench would not fit. I removed the fuel shutoff valve and rack dampener bolt to get clearance to pull it off however I was told I wouldn't have to remove the rack dampener. One bolt so I did it anyways no biggie.
Drip timing is touchy, that's where I crossed my fingers a bit. Its either not flowing at all or its a stream. The one drip per second is a very fine line that touches extreme either way you move it. Pushing towards the block advances the pump so I leaned that direction.
A bolt is required to seal off an oil feed line to the M pump. I think 8mm x 1 course. Maybe 8mm x 1.25. I forget.
Car has some serious mojo now. I have a bracket I've yet to install but soon will to limit max fuel. My egts get high quick. I am pouring clouds of black smoke when I floor it even at 18psi boost.
Blahhh ha ha ha!!!!!!! Dieselmeken for the win!
Post links and pics in a min.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thre...oil+filter
Initial setting for injection pump
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-3486.html
how do you time this damn pump
I know i had more links i was referencing but I like these a lot and cant remember the others. I don't have a manual but 24 BTDC is what ive read is stock timing.
It's pretty straight forward, I was intimidated by the project but it really wasn't that bad. Just that stupid back bolt ugh. 13mm of all kinds i would have. 90 deg 45 deg, sockets, extentions, s shaped, really anything 13 mm you have laying around you should get i think. Go to a swap meet or something and buy a bunch for a few dollars.
Pictures!
Before recent mods (M pump, valve cover yellow, no power steering)
After
Painted headlight bezels clear corners
Thinking of trying to move fuel filter mount, i wonder how a vehicle stock with no power steering mounted the fuel filter with no need for a power steering bracket. The bolts seems the same distance apart however, i haven't measured yet. Ill get around to it.
When i pull side trim I also ditched the 300d and Turbo diesel badges. Debating whether or not to lose the merc symbol too. I may cut the outer ring off.
and no i didn't black out the tail light, its just covered in soot.
Yellow valve cover because I asked my wife what color it should be and she said yellow. Anything to keep her partially interested in the ride.
Oh yeah side note... I finally got all my doors to lock today. I had an unlocked car for two years. I never left anything in it. In doing that I gutted every vacuum lined for the locks, trunk, and fuel door.
In doing that I got a look at what I've been in denial about for a while, rust in my floor. I knew it was getting worse because my seat is sagging more these days. That under body rubber is a good hiding trick. I post pics later on it, the one I took today came out like crap.
Also... More about pump, I still haven't measured chain stretch or can timing. I know "wtf idiot!" I assume my can timing is off. Before pump swap I think my pump may have had retarded timing. I always had great smoke. No coolant loss. Now with advanced pump I smoke black at the lightest touch of the pedal. Yeah I've got more fuel but I doubt it should be that bad when lightly touching pedal. Also idle smoke is less than before almost none. Still playing with fuel. Trying to find max sweet spot so I can floor it on the highway without melting things.the garret 60 trim characteristics seem to be similar to before. Boost to 18psi is quick but I don't think I am going to destroy the turbo. Than again I have no clue of what I'm doing lol.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-12-2013, 10:39 PM
#111
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body...epair.html
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-12-2013, 10:39 PM #111Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body...epair.html
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-12-2013, 11:06 PM
#112
I'd get rid of that PS bracket also along with the stock 10 micron no water separator capability fuel filter. I would use a Stanadyne FM-100 head with a 2 micron filter in it's place. Very easy to change filters and it is a water separator.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
08-12-2013, 11:06 PM #112Good job.
I'd get rid of that PS bracket also along with the stock 10 micron no water separator capability fuel filter. I would use a Stanadyne FM-100 head with a 2 micron filter in it's place. Very easy to change filters and it is a water separator.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
08-13-2013, 06:36 AM
#113
(08-12-2013, 10:39 PM)lgreeley83 Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body...epair.html
Oh man! Don't do that, pop riveting too thin sheet metal over rust is the surest way to continue the problem. What he did there is like taping a sheet of notebook paper over a cracked wall. You don't want to play that game, especially near the rear seat mounts. The body of the car will continue to fail under the "patch", and the only thing you will have done is forget about the problem thinking you dealt wth it.
Post some pics of what you are dealing with. The only way that is permanent is to cut out all the rust, prepare the surrounding steel with a wire wheel, and then weld in fresh material. The steel in the mb is like 18-22 gauge. I'm searching around for some good pics on the interwebs. I know I have some scary pics of a pop rivet repair like that a year later that you want to see, searching now. Also buying the correct material is pretty cheap all said and done. Like 20-30 bucks will get you a good section of 18 gauge steel.
I wish you were closer, you could come use my welder. Any forum members nearby?
here are some pictures for you to contemplate on the pop rivet repair idea-
pic 1. Everything looks fine, this car is totally safe and rust repair has been done says seller.
![[Image: passengerpatch_zpsd0227c77.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/1980%20240/passengerpatch_zpsd0227c77.jpg.html)
whoops, I pushed on the seat. Crunch, it popped out of the floor-
![[Image: passengerseatrust_zpsfcbd0ffb.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/1980%20240/passengerseatrust_zpsfcbd0ffb.jpg.html)
well Gee, that doesn't seem right, lets pull that pop riveted patch off and see whats up-
![[Image: underpatch_zpsd4d7dd9c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/1980%20240/underpatch_zpsd4d7dd9c.jpg.html)
True extent of the hole-
![[Image: truehole_zpsb8b63097.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/1980%20240/truehole_zpsb8b63097.jpg.html)
![[Image: underseat_zpsf1095e00.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/1980%20240/underseat_zpsf1095e00.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 08-13-2013, 07:32 AM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-12-2013, 10:39 PM)lgreeley83 Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body...epair.html
Oh man! Don't do that, pop riveting too thin sheet metal over rust is the surest way to continue the problem. What he did there is like taping a sheet of notebook paper over a cracked wall. You don't want to play that game, especially near the rear seat mounts. The body of the car will continue to fail under the "patch", and the only thing you will have done is forget about the problem thinking you dealt wth it.
Post some pics of what you are dealing with. The only way that is permanent is to cut out all the rust, prepare the surrounding steel with a wire wheel, and then weld in fresh material. The steel in the mb is like 18-22 gauge. I'm searching around for some good pics on the interwebs. I know I have some scary pics of a pop rivet repair like that a year later that you want to see, searching now. Also buying the correct material is pretty cheap all said and done. Like 20-30 bucks will get you a good section of 18 gauge steel.
I wish you were closer, you could come use my welder. Any forum members nearby?
here are some pictures for you to contemplate on the pop rivet repair idea-
pic 1. Everything looks fine, this car is totally safe and rust repair has been done says seller.
whoops, I pushed on the seat. Crunch, it popped out of the floor-
well Gee, that doesn't seem right, lets pull that pop riveted patch off and see whats up-
True extent of the hole-
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-13-2013, 07:55 AM
#114
![[Image: or7a1tg.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/or7a1tg.jpg)
Your fuel filter can move to the bracket holes, that's how mine is setup. You will need new clear lines though (tygon/fuel-rated nylon/etc.) The dipstick support goes right to one of the PS mounts. 2x on getting a bigger filter.
![[Image: nops2.jpg]](http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4153/nops2.jpg)
![[Image: nops1.jpg]](http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2899/nops1.jpg)
This post was last modified: 08-13-2013, 08:04 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-13-2013, 07:55 AM #114Buy an indicator from HF and a stand, then stick a drill bit or other thing in the end to extend it. A 1" throw won't reach valve spring retaining plate thingy. Remove valve lash, and rotate until you're down 2mm. read the timing on the engine. Bam. done.
Your fuel filter can move to the bracket holes, that's how mine is setup. You will need new clear lines though (tygon/fuel-rated nylon/etc.) The dipstick support goes right to one of the PS mounts. 2x on getting a bigger filter.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-13-2013, 08:03 AM
#115
(08-13-2013, 07:55 AM)Simpler=Better Buy an indicator from HF and a stand, then stick a drill bit or other thing in the end to extend it. A 1" throw won't reach valve spring retaining plate thingy. Remove valve last, and rotate until you're up 2mm. read the timing on the engine. Bam. done.
[undefined=undefined]Your fuel filter can move to the bracket holes, that's how mine is setup. You will need new clear lines though (tygon/fuel-rated nylon/etc.)[/undefined]
I left my power steering bracket on too when I went to manual steering as it has a bolt for the dip stick and holds the vac line with the fuel filter mount. Figured why reinvent the wheel, the whole piece isnt that heavy, and I won't have to figure out how to support these two items if I left it in.
How are those done on yours? how are you supporting them, can you show a pic?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-13-2013, 07:55 AM)Simpler=Better Buy an indicator from HF and a stand, then stick a drill bit or other thing in the end to extend it. A 1" throw won't reach valve spring retaining plate thingy. Remove valve last, and rotate until you're up 2mm. read the timing on the engine. Bam. done.
[undefined=undefined]Your fuel filter can move to the bracket holes, that's how mine is setup. You will need new clear lines though (tygon/fuel-rated nylon/etc.)[/undefined]
I left my power steering bracket on too when I went to manual steering as it has a bolt for the dip stick and holds the vac line with the fuel filter mount. Figured why reinvent the wheel, the whole piece isnt that heavy, and I won't have to figure out how to support these two items if I left it in.
How are those done on yours? how are you supporting them, can you show a pic?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-13-2013, 08:06 AM
#116
I added the photos to my first post
I have the vac pump removed on my engine, but I imagine the bracket can be relocated. The dipstick and fuel filter don't have the perfect spacing by accident
This post was last modified: 08-13-2013, 08:09 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-13-2013, 08:06 AM #116It's all in my build thread, I was also playing with putting an AC compressor where the PS was. Read my damn build thread it's full of nifty tricks!
I added the photos to my first post
I have the vac pump removed on my engine, but I imagine the bracket can be relocated. The dipstick and fuel filter don't have the perfect spacing by accident
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-13-2013, 08:10 AM
#117
(08-13-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better It's all in my build thread, I was also playing with putting an AC compressor where the PS was. Read my damn build thread it's full of nifty tricks!
I added the photos to my first post
I have the vac pump removed on my engine, but I imagine the bracket can be relocated. The dipstick and fuel filter don't have the perfect spacing by accident
well shit, thats all the way up at the top!
I start at the bottom and move up.
checking it out now, have to go alllllllll the way to the top forum.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-13-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better It's all in my build thread, I was also playing with putting an AC compressor where the PS was. Read my damn build thread it's full of nifty tricks!
I added the photos to my first post
I have the vac pump removed on my engine, but I imagine the bracket can be relocated. The dipstick and fuel filter don't have the perfect spacing by accident
well shit, thats all the way up at the top!
I start at the bottom and move up.
checking it out now, have to go alllllllll the way to the top forum.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-13-2013, 08:50 AM
#118
Question: those clear fuel lines, how important is it to use that clear plastic stuff?
Simple-> thanks for the pic. I remember reading a while back your build. I figured it would go.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-13-2013, 08:50 AM #118I know I gotta cut the rust out and clean the area up. Supposing I do all the traditional prep work though, the rivets should be OK right? Than cover with por 15 or something? I GOTTA stop/remove/kill all the rust. I'll get pics up later. Fortunate that mine isn't as bad as some of those pics.
Question: those clear fuel lines, how important is it to use that clear plastic stuff?
Simple-> thanks for the pic. I remember reading a while back your build. I figured it would go.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-13-2013, 08:56 AM
#119
(08-13-2013, 08:50 AM)lgreeley83 Question: those clear fuel lines, how important is it to use that clear plastic stuff?
not important at all. Actually, whats really cool is if you pull the line off and cut the line off the banjo fittings exposing the hose barbs, 5/16 rubber hose fits perfectly. All you need is a hose rated for the pressure, which is low, and some band style high pressure hose clamps.
I think the max pressure is 20-25psi, so look for some 50psi rated fuel hose, available in almost any parts store. should be printed on the side.
I have all 5/16 rubber hose in my van on the pressure side of the injection pump because I relocated the fuel filter
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-13-2013, 08:50 AM)lgreeley83 Question: those clear fuel lines, how important is it to use that clear plastic stuff?
not important at all. Actually, whats really cool is if you pull the line off and cut the line off the banjo fittings exposing the hose barbs, 5/16 rubber hose fits perfectly. All you need is a hose rated for the pressure, which is low, and some band style high pressure hose clamps.
I think the max pressure is 20-25psi, so look for some 50psi rated fuel hose, available in almost any parts store. should be printed on the side.
I have all 5/16 rubber hose in my van on the pressure side of the injection pump because I relocated the fuel filter
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-13-2013, 09:06 AM
#120
The clear lines make it really easy to find air leaks in your fuel system, but they're not required.
Can you get a video with the Dieselmenken pump? Have the missus hold it out the window while you light the tires up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-13-2013, 09:06 AM #120So no one is going to comment on the vice grip indicator holder? Alrighty....
The clear lines make it really easy to find air leaks in your fuel system, but they're not required.
Can you get a video with the Dieselmenken pump? Have the missus hold it out the window while you light the tires up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-13-2013, 09:08 AM
#121
(08-13-2013, 09:06 AM)Simpler=Better [undefined=undefined]So no one is going to comment on the vice grip indicator holder? Alrighty....[/undefined]
The clear lines make it really easy to find air leaks in your fuel system, but they're not required.
Can you get a video with the Dieselmenken pump? Have the missus hold it out the window while you light the tires up
It looked so professional I didn't even notice your rigging.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-13-2013, 09:06 AM)Simpler=Better [undefined=undefined]So no one is going to comment on the vice grip indicator holder? Alrighty....[/undefined]
The clear lines make it really easy to find air leaks in your fuel system, but they're not required.
Can you get a video with the Dieselmenken pump? Have the missus hold it out the window while you light the tires up
It looked so professional I didn't even notice your rigging.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-18-2013, 10:33 AM
#122
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-18-2013, 10:33 AM #122Is there a way to remove the carpet from center console without removing the console? Back from a vacation ready to attack.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-18-2013, 10:50 AM
#123
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-18-2013, 10:50 AM #123IIRC you can wiggle it out after loosening the center thingy. Don't hold me to that though
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-18-2013, 11:20 AM
#124
(08-18-2013, 10:50 AM)Simpler=Better IIRC you can wiggle it out after loosening the center thingy. Don't hold me to that though
I keep thinking of something you said somewhere else..."hulk smash!"
I'm pretty partial to that idea.
Who needs that dumb ass carpet anyways.
This post was last modified: 08-18-2013, 11:21 AM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-18-2013, 11:20 AM #124(08-18-2013, 10:50 AM)Simpler=Better IIRC you can wiggle it out after loosening the center thingy. Don't hold me to that though
I keep thinking of something you said somewhere else..."hulk smash!"
I'm pretty partial to that idea.
Who needs that dumb ass carpet anyways.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-18-2013, 12:03 PM
#125
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
The whole console is relatively easy to remove, I believe the side carpeting is semi permanently affixed. Hardest part is popping out the buttons up high, but after disconnecting most of that stuff, its held in by 3 screws from what I recall
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-19-2013, 08:14 PM
#127
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jZfzwwt...ata_player
More later
This post was last modified: 08-19-2013, 08:14 PM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-19-2013, 08:14 PM #127Idle rev :-) noisy ac clutch I think. Also noisy everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jZfzwwt...ata_player
More later
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-20-2013, 09:51 AM
#128
love it, this is making me want to pull out stops and get my 115 actually rolling. bad ass, great job on this thing
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
wow that thing sounds mean.
love it, this is making me want to pull out stops and get my 115 actually rolling. bad ass, great job on this thing
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-20-2013, 11:56 AM
#129
That's a loud idle clack clack you've got going
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-20-2013, 11:56 AM #129And here's some rust and here's some rust and here's some rust :p
That's a loud idle clack clack you've got going
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-20-2013, 12:01 PM
#130
(08-20-2013, 11:56 AM)Simpler=Better And here's some rust and here's some rust and here's some rust :p
The stupid seat bolts (rear) just turn and turn but don't unbolt
(08-20-2013, 11:56 AM)Simpler=Better That's a loud idle clack clack you've got going
Lol my idle is still low, not sure if I can back out the fine idle screw more on the pump. At first it would die at idle, 3/4 CCW and it idles at 500. I think i want 750.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-20-2013, 12:01 PM #130(08-20-2013, 11:56 AM)Simpler=Better And here's some rust and here's some rust and here's some rust :p
The stupid seat bolts (rear) just turn and turn but don't unbolt
(08-20-2013, 11:56 AM)Simpler=Better That's a loud idle clack clack you've got going
Lol my idle is still low, not sure if I can back out the fine idle screw more on the pump. At first it would die at idle, 3/4 CCW and it idles at 500. I think i want 750.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-20-2013, 12:27 PM
#131
Or is it the POR paint is flaking off?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I see handprints on the push bumper. unacceptable, the only blemishes allowed are the blood of animals and senior citizens.
Or is it the POR paint is flaking off?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-20-2013, 02:35 PM
#132
Great job though, well have to get you parts to fix that manual shut off valve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
08-20-2013, 02:35 PM #132That's not too loud. I've heard much louder with 7.5mm M-pump.
Great job though, well have to get you parts to fix that manual shut off valve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
08-20-2013, 02:42 PM
#133
(08-20-2013, 02:35 PM)DeliveryValve That's not too loud. I've heard much louder with 7.5mm M-pump.
Great job though, well have to get you parts to fix that manual shut off valve.
Hey Logan, related to this, I have a working one of those vacuum valves I was playing with I pulled off a parts car. Let me know if you want it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-20-2013, 02:35 PM)DeliveryValve That's not too loud. I've heard much louder with 7.5mm M-pump.
Great job though, well have to get you parts to fix that manual shut off valve.
Hey Logan, related to this, I have a working one of those vacuum valves I was playing with I pulled off a parts car. Let me know if you want it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-20-2013, 03:21 PM
#134
I pulled it from the junkyard from a vehicle with the steering column already lowered
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-20-2013, 03:21 PM #134Thanks, I've got one too. Its just a tough spot to get those screws. Also I get lazy with things the car could actually use vs. Fast and fun.
I pulled it from the junkyard from a vehicle with the steering column already lowered
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-20-2013, 03:30 PM
#135
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
access is also pretty good if you just pull the instrument cluster and have a 90 degree screwdriver or super short driver
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-20-2013, 03:40 PM
#136
Whad ya think of the rust? I know not the greatest shot. I'll probably do the riveting. Clean it up real good and do all the proper prep. Por 15 like crazy. The body is pretty beat. I just need it to last another couple years until I get I house/ garage, than this will be a parts car. Eventually get a dry body from the south and swap all the goodies into it.
The pans are ugly but it seems only around the rear bolts of the front seats that effect safety. Am I wrong?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-20-2013, 03:40 PM #136That's what I was thinking too. I got a look with the cluster out I just gotta get something to fit in there.
Whad ya think of the rust? I know not the greatest shot. I'll probably do the riveting. Clean it up real good and do all the proper prep. Por 15 like crazy. The body is pretty beat. I just need it to last another couple years until I get I house/ garage, than this will be a parts car. Eventually get a dry body from the south and swap all the goodies into it.
The pans are ugly but it seems only around the rear bolts of the front seats that effect safety. Am I wrong?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-20-2013, 03:47 PM
#137
(08-20-2013, 03:40 PM)lgreeley83 That's what I was thinking too. I got a look with the cluster out I just gotta get something to fit in there.
Whad ya think of the rust? I know not the greatest shot. I'll probably do the riveting. Clean it up real good and do all the proper prep. Por 15 like crazy. The body is pretty beat. I just need it to last another couple years until I get I house/ garage, than this will be a parts car. Eventually get a dry body from the south and swap all the goodies into it.
The pans are ugly but it seems only around the rear bolts of the front seats that effect safety. Am I wrong?
It looks fairly extensive, but you are on top of it looks like. If the holes aren't any bigger than that, it looks pretty patchable. For me the safety concern would be the rear seat mounts like you said, and also the lower seatbelt attachment point.
heres a pic of what im talking about-
![[Image: seatbeltbolt_zpsec6f4f62.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/1980%20240/seatbeltbolt_zpsec6f4f62.jpg.html)
This is supposed to be a closed tube welded to the floor, but to connection to the tube and the floor has gone, leaving the lower seatbelt mount bolted to some 20 gauge steel that is hanging out there with no structural support left.
Check both sides, at the very least, if your seatbelt mounts are hanging out in mid air like above, you want to weld in some steel in that location or bolt some in to provide the structure and support.
You don't want to slam against the seatbelt in an accident and have the lower mount pull the sheet metal up and away and out, cause that would really ruin someones day.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-20-2013, 03:40 PM)lgreeley83 That's what I was thinking too. I got a look with the cluster out I just gotta get something to fit in there.
Whad ya think of the rust? I know not the greatest shot. I'll probably do the riveting. Clean it up real good and do all the proper prep. Por 15 like crazy. The body is pretty beat. I just need it to last another couple years until I get I house/ garage, than this will be a parts car. Eventually get a dry body from the south and swap all the goodies into it.
The pans are ugly but it seems only around the rear bolts of the front seats that effect safety. Am I wrong?
It looks fairly extensive, but you are on top of it looks like. If the holes aren't any bigger than that, it looks pretty patchable. For me the safety concern would be the rear seat mounts like you said, and also the lower seatbelt attachment point.
heres a pic of what im talking about-
This is supposed to be a closed tube welded to the floor, but to connection to the tube and the floor has gone, leaving the lower seatbelt mount bolted to some 20 gauge steel that is hanging out there with no structural support left.
Check both sides, at the very least, if your seatbelt mounts are hanging out in mid air like above, you want to weld in some steel in that location or bolt some in to provide the structure and support.
You don't want to slam against the seatbelt in an accident and have the lower mount pull the sheet metal up and away and out, cause that would really ruin someones day.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-20-2013, 08:10 PM
#138
(08-13-2013, 06:36 AM)JB3(08-12-2013, 10:39 PM)lgreeley83 Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body...epair.html
Oh man! Don't do that, pop riveting too thin sheet metal over rust is the surest way to continue the problem. What he did there is like taping a sheet of notebook paper over a cracked wall. You don't want to play that game, especially near the rear seat mounts. The body of the car will continue to fail under the "patch", and the only thing you will have done is forget about the problem thinking you dealt wth it.
Post some pics of what you are dealing with. The only way that is permanent is to cut out all the rust, prepare the surrounding steel with a wire wheel, and then weld in fresh material. The steel in the mb is like 18-22 gauge. I'm searching around for some good pics on the interwebs. I know I have some scary pics of a pop rivet repair like that a year later that you want to see, searching now. Also buying the correct material is pretty cheap all said and done. Like 20-30 bucks will get you a good section of 18 gauge steel.
I wish you were closer, you could come use my welder. Any forum members nearby?
here are some pictures for you to contemplate on the pop rivet repair idea-
pic 1. Everything looks fine, this car is totally safe and rust repair has been done says seller.
whoops, I pushed on the seat. Crunch, it popped out of the floor-
well Gee, that doesn't seem right, lets pull that pop riveted patch off and see whats up-
True extent of the hole-
Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...
Austincarnut
08-20-2013, 08:10 PM #138(08-13-2013, 06:36 AM)JB3(08-12-2013, 10:39 PM)lgreeley83 Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body...epair.html
Oh man! Don't do that, pop riveting too thin sheet metal over rust is the surest way to continue the problem. What he did there is like taping a sheet of notebook paper over a cracked wall. You don't want to play that game, especially near the rear seat mounts. The body of the car will continue to fail under the "patch", and the only thing you will have done is forget about the problem thinking you dealt wth it.
Post some pics of what you are dealing with. The only way that is permanent is to cut out all the rust, prepare the surrounding steel with a wire wheel, and then weld in fresh material. The steel in the mb is like 18-22 gauge. I'm searching around for some good pics on the interwebs. I know I have some scary pics of a pop rivet repair like that a year later that you want to see, searching now. Also buying the correct material is pretty cheap all said and done. Like 20-30 bucks will get you a good section of 18 gauge steel.
I wish you were closer, you could come use my welder. Any forum members nearby?
here are some pictures for you to contemplate on the pop rivet repair idea-
pic 1. Everything looks fine, this car is totally safe and rust repair has been done says seller.
whoops, I pushed on the seat. Crunch, it popped out of the floor-
well Gee, that doesn't seem right, lets pull that pop riveted patch off and see whats up-
True extent of the hole-
Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...
08-20-2013, 08:30 PM
#139
(08-20-2013, 08:10 PM)Austincarnut Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...
I'd move away from this horrible place called the rust belt but family is all here. It hurts to drive in the winter knowing what is happening to a car. In fact bringing a rust free classic here should probably be outlawed.
I'd buy your 300d but no room in life yet. School done in 8 months than time to find a job. Maybe get out of the crappy apartment lifestyle set up shop. Maybe a barn with a lift and 10 cars in it. A full machinist shop, welding, tools spread everywhere, giant air compressor.
If my barn was in a cave that would be pretty sweet too.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-20-2013, 08:30 PM #139(08-20-2013, 08:10 PM)Austincarnut Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...
I'd move away from this horrible place called the rust belt but family is all here. It hurts to drive in the winter knowing what is happening to a car. In fact bringing a rust free classic here should probably be outlawed.
I'd buy your 300d but no room in life yet. School done in 8 months than time to find a job. Maybe get out of the crappy apartment lifestyle set up shop. Maybe a barn with a lift and 10 cars in it. A full machinist shop, welding, tools spread everywhere, giant air compressor.
If my barn was in a cave that would be pretty sweet too.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-20-2013, 08:46 PM
#140
(08-20-2013, 08:30 PM)lgreeley83(08-20-2013, 08:10 PM)Austincarnut Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...
I'd move away from this horrible place called the rust belt but family is all here. It hurts to drive in the winter knowing what is happening to a car. In fact bringing a rust free classic here should probably be outlawed.
I'd buy your 300d but no room in life yet. School done in 8 months than time to find a job. Maybe get out of the crappy apartment lifestyle set up shop. Maybe a barn with a lift and 10 cars in it. A full machinist shop, welding, tools spread everywhere, giant air compressor.
If my barn was in a cave that would be pretty sweet too.
If you ever come out this way bring a torch and sawzall!
Austincarnut
08-20-2013, 08:46 PM #140(08-20-2013, 08:30 PM)lgreeley83(08-20-2013, 08:10 PM)Austincarnut Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...
I'd move away from this horrible place called the rust belt but family is all here. It hurts to drive in the winter knowing what is happening to a car. In fact bringing a rust free classic here should probably be outlawed.
I'd buy your 300d but no room in life yet. School done in 8 months than time to find a job. Maybe get out of the crappy apartment lifestyle set up shop. Maybe a barn with a lift and 10 cars in it. A full machinist shop, welding, tools spread everywhere, giant air compressor.
If my barn was in a cave that would be pretty sweet too.
If you ever come out this way bring a torch and sawzall!
08-21-2013, 01:05 PM
#141
Oh an wish me luck. School starts Monday.
400+
Microbial ecology
Entomology
Urban geography
Back to damn reality.
This post was last modified: 08-21-2013, 01:52 PM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-21-2013, 01:05 PM #141Any tips tricks on removing the rubber crap from underneath?
Oh an wish me luck. School starts Monday.
400+
Microbial ecology
Entomology
Urban geography
Back to damn reality.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-21-2013, 02:32 PM
#142
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-21-2013, 02:41 PM
#143
(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap
This post was last modified: 08-21-2013, 02:41 PM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-21-2013, 02:41 PM #143(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-21-2013, 02:45 PM
#144
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-21-2013, 02:45 PM #144I like that dry ice idea. I can get that local cheap. What do you do? Just hold a chunk for a little bit on the undercoat and smack it? Gloves!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
08-21-2013, 03:00 PM
#145
(08-21-2013, 02:41 PM)Simpler=Better(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap
The stuff I wheeled off on the outside of my 80 240 seemed like 100% vinyl rubber to me. In places in the wheel well it was over an inch thick!
Id be really surprised if the dry ice actually fractures it, that crap is unbelievably tenacious. The asphalt based insulation on the inside is a lot easier to get off than the outer coating has been my experience. Have you tried this?
We need a video of a dry ice attempt, this could be a useful tool for removing the undercoating materials.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-21-2013, 02:41 PM)Simpler=Better(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap
The stuff I wheeled off on the outside of my 80 240 seemed like 100% vinyl rubber to me. In places in the wheel well it was over an inch thick!
Id be really surprised if the dry ice actually fractures it, that crap is unbelievably tenacious. The asphalt based insulation on the inside is a lot easier to get off than the outer coating has been my experience. Have you tried this?
We need a video of a dry ice attempt, this could be a useful tool for removing the undercoating materials.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-21-2013, 03:41 PM
#146
(08-21-2013, 03:00 PM)JB3(08-21-2013, 02:41 PM)Simpler=Better(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap
The stuff I wheeled off on the outside of my 80 240 seemed like 100% vinyl rubber to me. In places in the wheel well it was over an inch thick!
Id be really surprised if the dry ice actually fractures it, that crap is unbelievably tenacious. The asphalt based insulation on the inside is a lot easier to get off than the outer coating has been my experience. Have you tried this?
We need a video of a dry ice attempt, this could be a useful tool for removing the undercoating materials.
I retract my comments, I assumed that it all was asphault from my readin's on the intarwebz. There's a thread buried somehwere on PP that used dry ice and a hammer to clean it up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-21-2013, 03:41 PM #146(08-21-2013, 03:00 PM)JB3(08-21-2013, 02:41 PM)Simpler=Better(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.
You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.
I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that
liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap
The stuff I wheeled off on the outside of my 80 240 seemed like 100% vinyl rubber to me. In places in the wheel well it was over an inch thick!
Id be really surprised if the dry ice actually fractures it, that crap is unbelievably tenacious. The asphalt based insulation on the inside is a lot easier to get off than the outer coating has been my experience. Have you tried this?
We need a video of a dry ice attempt, this could be a useful tool for removing the undercoating materials.
I retract my comments, I assumed that it all was asphault from my readin's on the intarwebz. There's a thread buried somehwere on PP that used dry ice and a hammer to clean it up
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-21-2013, 03:55 PM
#147
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
08-21-2013, 03:55 PM #147Ah well, I'll give it a whirl. Playing with dry ice is fun anyhow if it doesn't work.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
09-28-2013, 12:11 PM
#148
OK here's a small video. I was revving too much and my clutch was slipping. Never revved that much before. Nothing broke. Woof!
Max fuel still limited a lot. Egt at 1500 after that little run.
6mm Dieselmeken pump, 20psi boost, 60trim garret turbo, huge open exhaust, manual steering, 2:88 rear, 4 speed manual, uhmmm, need to upgrade the clutch
This post was last modified: 09-28-2013, 12:30 PM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
09-28-2013, 12:11 PM #148http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuYpPffkI...e=youtu.be
OK here's a small video. I was revving too much and my clutch was slipping. Never revved that much before. Nothing broke. Woof!
Max fuel still limited a lot. Egt at 1500 after that little run.
6mm Dieselmeken pump, 20psi boost, 60trim garret turbo, huge open exhaust, manual steering, 2:88 rear, 4 speed manual, uhmmm, need to upgrade the clutch
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
09-28-2013, 12:43 PM
#149
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
09-28-2013, 12:43 PM #149Needs more boost!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
09-28-2013, 12:47 PM
#150
Intercooler too.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
09-28-2013, 12:47 PM #150I know :-( I think this turbo is safe to 18 psi, I'm quoting captain on that. What the highest I can boost before bending rods? I read somewhere but I forget.
Intercooler too.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
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