Gathering parts for the conversion...

STD Tuning Engine Gathering parts for the conversion...

View a Printable Version

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

hooblah

Holset

401

08-12-2013, 06:01 PM #1

I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.

Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Question 3:

Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?

Question 4:

Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.

Question 5:

Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?

Thanks guys!

hooblah

08-12-2013, 06:01 PM #1

The time is almost nigh for my 190d to receive its very own 606. But I have a huge parts list which must be acquired first.

So question 1:

Ill be using the existing 5 speed manual box, but im unsure of where I can get a performance clutch for it? I dont fancy making a new flywheel to accept a different clutch kit, so im left with a 602 flywheel and a standard clutch which will most likely be burnt out within 500 miles Big Grin

I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.

Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Question 3:

Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?

Question 4:

Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.

Question 5:

Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?

Thanks guys!

Duncansport

Holset

526

08-13-2013, 01:03 PM #2

(08-12-2013, 06:01 PM)hooblah The time is almost nigh for my 190d to receive its very own 606. But I have a huge parts list which must be acquired first.

So question 1:

Ill be using the existing 5 speed manual box, but im unsure of where I can get a performance clutch for it? I dont fancy making a new flywheel to accept a different clutch kit, so im left with a 602 flywheel and a standard clutch which will most likely be burnt out within 500 miles

I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.

You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.

Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Remove vacuum pump, unscrew large bolt, remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

Question 3:

Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?

Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.

Question 4:

Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.

[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?

Question 5:

Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?

[/i]

Thanks guys!

Duncansport

08-13-2013, 01:03 PM #2

(08-12-2013, 06:01 PM)hooblah The time is almost nigh for my 190d to receive its very own 606. But I have a huge parts list which must be acquired first.

So question 1:

Ill be using the existing 5 speed manual box, but im unsure of where I can get a performance clutch for it? I dont fancy making a new flywheel to accept a different clutch kit, so im left with a 602 flywheel and a standard clutch which will most likely be burnt out within 500 miles

I did have an idea of having the friction disc relined with a different material, but that would be useless without having a pressure plate to match. Is it possible to get a custom setup? What sort of price would I be looking at? Im guessing its going to be expensive, so that's my last option if I cant find anything off the shelf.

You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.

Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Remove vacuum pump, unscrew large bolt, remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

Question 3:

Can I get rid of the lift pump altogether and fit an inline pump by the tank? Is this a wise move?
What should I do about the fuel lines, leave them standard or upgrade to something else?

Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.

Question 4:

Will this conversion drop straight in with 603 mounts or will there be a lot of fucking about to do? I want to try and get it done within a week, so im trying to get every part I need first to save dicking about and waiting for parts to arrive.

[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?

Question 5:

Can you think of anything ive forgotten, or any tips/advice?

[/i]

Thanks guys!

Druk

Holset

297

08-13-2013, 04:29 PM #3

(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

Sorry,,, added a few comments after just doing my own. Wink

This post was last modified: 08-13-2013, 04:33 PM by Druk.

Druk

08-13-2013, 04:29 PM #3

(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

Sorry,,, added a few comments after just doing my own. Wink

Mark_M

GT2559V

206

08-13-2013, 05:11 PM #4

Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.

Mark_M

08-13-2013, 05:11 PM #4

Duncansport

Holset

526

08-13-2013, 07:34 PM #5

(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

Sorry,,, added a few comments after just doing my own.

good points made

.

Duncansport

08-13-2013, 07:34 PM #5

(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

How do I got about removing the electronic IP from the 606 and fitting the 603 IP?

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

Sorry,,, added a few comments after just doing my own.

good points made

.

hooblah

Holset

401

08-15-2013, 04:38 AM #6

(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:

You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.

In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?

Question 3:

Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.

Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?

Question 4:

[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?

Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?

(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?

(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.

Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.

Does anyone know if theres any other clutches that will fit using the standard 5 speed manual 190d gearbox? (I dont know the gearbox code sorry)
How much power can this gearbox cope with? Will the rest of the drivetrain be able to cope?

Cheers guys!

This post was last modified: 08-15-2013, 08:04 AM by hooblah.

hooblah

08-15-2013, 04:38 AM #6

(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:

You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.

In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?

Question 3:

Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.

Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?

Question 4:

[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?

Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?

(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?

(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.

Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.

Duncansport

Holset

526

08-15-2013, 08:20 AM #7

(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:

You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.

In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?

The company i use here (clutchnet) will make the fulcrum point higher effectively adding to the pressure plates force upon the disc. To rebuild and modify my pressure plate the cost was $180-200

Question 3:

Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.

Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?

Well the fuel tank stainer outlet is 18mm vs the 10mm for the diesel, and sense all the parts are there you can get all OEM hoses, brackets ect and make a nice clean fit that is reliable. You do not need 3bar unless your going the superpump route. Any Bosch external pump will do. The outlet valve in the IP will regulate the inlet pressure to 1bar

Question 4:

[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?

Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?

Ill look on EPC later today, maybe there is some info there.

(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?

(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.

Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.

Does anyone know if theres any other clutches that will fit using the standard 5 speed manual 190d gearbox? (I dont know the gearbox code sorry)
How much power can this gearbox cope with? Will the rest of the drivetrain be able to cope?

Cheers guys!

Duncansport

08-15-2013, 08:20 AM #7

(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport So question 1:

You can send the plate out and the fulcrum point can be changed, also you can reline you friction disc. That is the cheapest route to go.

In what way will the fulcrum point be changed? And how cheap are we talking?

The company i use here (clutchnet) will make the fulcrum point higher effectively adding to the pressure plates force upon the disc. To rebuild and modify my pressure plate the cost was $180-200

Question 3:

Yes, i mounted a Bosch 044 and used all W124 300E fuel feed lines, fuel filter and bracket as well as the fuel tank strainer. Have your over voltage relay power up a secondary relay to run it. You will need to regulate the fuel pressure to 3 bar if your going the super pump route. I used a SAAB SPG fuel pressure regulator. If your staying stock fuel system then you can simply feed the IP with the fuel pump and let the valve inside the banjo fitting do the job of pressure regulation.

Whats the reason for using a 300E fuelling setup? And why 3 bar? Can I use a pump that operates at 3 bar or less, and do away with the regulator?

Well the fuel tank stainer outlet is 18mm vs the 10mm for the diesel, and sense all the parts are there you can get all OEM hoses, brackets ect and make a nice clean fit that is reliable. You do not need 3bar unless your going the superpump route. Any Bosch external pump will do. The outlet valve in the IP will regulate the inlet pressure to 1bar

Question 4:

[i]I think the M103 engine mount brackets need to be used. Not sure on this however. Also i thought the oil pan needed to be cut?

Ive head a lot of conflicting info. Some say use om603, some say 602. Is there any way of finding out the dimensions of different mounts, other than physically buying them and measuring?

Ill look on EPC later today, maybe there is some info there.

(08-13-2013, 04:29 PM)Druk
(08-13-2013, 01:03 PM)Duncansport Question 2:

Remove vacuum pump, insert special basket to retain timing pulley in position, unscrew large bolt clockwise...NB left-hand thread , remove three long bolts and rear bracket. Reverse procedure. You will need to fabricate a throttle linkage.

What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?

(08-13-2013, 05:11 PM)Mark_M Helix and AP will do you a custom clutch for reasonable money in the UK. They only need a few details from you and they will build the clutch parts to your needs. Obviously there is limitations to what they can do ultimately but they have put together some good clutches for some V8 boys I know.

Cheers mate! Do you know roughly how much they charge for this? Ive seen some uprated clutches on ebay from companies such as panther and spec, they charge between £150-300 depending on which kit you go for.

Does anyone know if theres any other clutches that will fit using the standard 5 speed manual 190d gearbox? (I dont know the gearbox code sorry)
How much power can this gearbox cope with? Will the rest of the drivetrain be able to cope?

Cheers guys!

Druk

Holset

297

08-15-2013, 11:20 AM #8

(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?

Special 'basket' is workshop tool for maintaining position of pump timing wheel (and chain) so that it doesn't drop into the timing case when the pump is removed. Pump timing is 14 - 15deg after TDC on firing stroke No1 Cyl.
There is a special workshop peg inserted into hole in pump side (after removing plug) that holds pump shaft in position relative to the timing mark and pump is mounted with this peg in place and bolt done up lightly before peg is removed. Recommended reading...Haynes W124 manual #3253. Covers diesel timing quite well.

Something else I discovered during my conversion...
Petrol (Gas) and diesel in-tank filters have different mesh sizes. They are interchangeable so Merc must have discovered somewhere along the line that finer mesh isn't good for diesel flow.

Diesel one on right.

This post was last modified: 08-15-2013, 11:32 AM by Druk.

Druk

08-15-2013, 11:20 AM #8

(08-15-2013, 04:38 AM)hooblah What is this special basket?
Does the engine timing have to be set in a certain way before the pump is removed? Does the new pump need its timing set when its put on?
Ive heard the om606 NA throttle linkage will fit?

hooblah

Holset

401

08-20-2013, 07:12 AM #9

Hey thanks guys!

Druk I was thinking of getting rid if the tank strainer altogether and running an in-line ore filter just so I dont have to deal with tje strainer blocking up.

Duncan did you find out about the mounts on the epc?

hooblah

08-20-2013, 07:12 AM #9

Duncansport

Holset

526

08-20-2013, 07:59 AM #10

(08-20-2013, 07:12 AM)hooblah Hey thanks guys!

Druk I was thinking of getting rid if the tank strainer altogether and running an in-line ore filter just so I dont have to deal with tje strainer blocking up.

Duncan did you find out about the mounts on the epc?

The mounts are the same whether it's a M103/M104 or om602/om601. The engine brackets are different however. The engine mounts all sub to a 1242402217

Duncansport

08-20-2013, 07:59 AM #10

(08-20-2013, 07:12 AM)hooblah Hey thanks guys!

Druk I was thinking of getting rid if the tank strainer altogether and running an in-line ore filter just so I dont have to deal with tje strainer blocking up.

Duncan did you find out about the mounts on the epc?

The mounts are the same whether it's a M103/M104 or om602/om601. The engine brackets are different however. The engine mounts all sub to a 1242402217

hooblah

Holset

401

08-20-2013, 11:16 AM #11

Ah. Now which brackets would be best for me? I already have the ones from an om602 and 606.

hooblah

08-20-2013, 11:16 AM #11

Ah. Now which brackets would be best for me? I already have the ones from an om602 and 606.

AlanMcR

mind - blown

400

08-20-2013, 06:57 PM #12

I wouldn't completely eliminate the tank strainer. Instead, keep the strainer frame and wrap it with a stainless steel mesh with a hole size just smaller than any part of the tubing leading to your (new) coarse fuel filter. Designing it this way minimizes the chance of either the strainer or the plumbing getting clogged. The open SS mesh will also do a better job of chopping up gunk that might grow in the tank.

AlanMcR

08-20-2013, 06:57 PM #12

hooblah

Holset

401

08-21-2013, 02:15 PM #13

Hmm good thinking!

hooblah

08-21-2013, 02:15 PM #13

Hmm good thinking!

hooblah

Holset

401

09-01-2013, 02:58 PM #14

So i've compiled a basic list of the things i'll be needing to get the car running with an om606. Can anyone think of anything i've missed out?

OM606.962
OM603 IP
OM606 NA throttle linkage
OM611 CDI sprinter single mass flywheel conversion
C230 kompressor/CDI (716.640) gearbox + shifter + linkage + prop + crossmember + starter motor
Intercooler

Is it worth removing the viscous fan and fitting an electric slimline one instead?

hooblah

09-01-2013, 02:58 PM #14

maxypriest

Holset

287

09-02-2013, 03:53 AM #15

I’m planning on using a w210 E300TD radiator as its really thin, then used a slim line fan as the intercooler I have bought is 3” thick and I’m running outa room.

I’m also pondering what clutch I’m going to use – what are you going to do? – I don’t think the sprinter will hold anything more than a moderate power increase…

W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs

maxypriest

09-02-2013, 03:53 AM #15

W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs

hooblah

Holset

401

09-02-2013, 06:52 AM #16

Im in two minds about going for a superpump now or later.
If I max out the 603 IP for now I should be at ~175bhp which the clutch should be able to hold.
I guess id have the clutch modified to hold more power if I need it. Druk's the man to ask really.
The problem im going to face when fitting a larger turbo is the clearance between the downpipe and steering box, or lack of. HughF is converting his to steering rack because of this and its a bit of a job which id like to avoid if possible. Maybe I can fit an oval pipe in the gap, the only way ill be able to tell is once the engine's in.

hooblah

09-02-2013, 06:52 AM #16

hooblah

Holset

401

09-21-2013, 02:12 PM #17

So ive acquired a 716.606 gearbox and a single mass sprinter flywheel and clutch kit. The flywheel is bloody heavy!
Im thinking of lightening the flywheel, just how light can I go? Bear in mind this is for an om606.

hooblah

09-21-2013, 02:12 PM #17

SurfRodder

Jackass Extraordinaire

611

09-21-2013, 05:01 PM #18

the general rule of thumb is that the more cylinders you have the lighter you can go. Apparently not always true as far as (mercedes) diesels are concerned. The flywheels for the 617 are much heavier than for the 616. For the OM60x series it seems to be less of an issue as I don't have any of the undesireable off idle charachteristics with my 602 flwheel behind the 603 that I did with the 616 one behind the 617...
If you try it, I'd say try to approach the problem conservatively. Theres some 10lb difference between the 616 and 617 wheels, I'm not sure where a good starting point would be, but 1-2lbs is probably a good idea...though you may end up closer to the 10lb mark when alls said and done...just a little more difficult/expensive to add mass back...

(09-02-2013, 03:53 AM)maxypriest I’m also pondering what clutch I’m going to use – what are you going to do? – I don’t think the sprinter will hold anything more than a moderate power increase…

without any data I wouldn't write off the sprinter clutch...those things are prolly twice as heavy as our cars and thus need pretty good grip to get 'em moving....

Personally, for the clutch/flyheel issue, I am ultimately going to swap in a gasser I6 flywheel (got one from an '88 w124) and get a clutch/PP from these guys:
http://www.clutchnet.com/index.php?optio...Itemid=140

shipping to that side of the pond would likely be pretty steep, but I think they have a decent enough of a volume that there may be some discount...they do domestic for free.

This post was last modified: 09-21-2013, 06:01 PM by SurfRodder.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

SurfRodder

09-21-2013, 05:01 PM #18

(09-02-2013, 03:53 AM)maxypriest I’m also pondering what clutch I’m going to use – what are you going to do? – I don’t think the sprinter will hold anything more than a moderate power increase…

hooblah

Holset

401

09-21-2013, 07:22 PM #19

The single mass flywheel im using is for an om611. I havent weighed it but it feels like it weighs around 15-20kgs.
Whats the weight of an om602 flywheel?

Does anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts?

hooblah

09-21-2013, 07:22 PM #19

View a Printable Version

0 Vote(s) - 0 Average

Users browsing this thread:
14 Guest(s)