My 1987 300D
My 1987 300D
Problems every where.
Popped a flexdisk on Fri driving into work, popped my air bags with it. Quite shocking. Located a harder lemforder 80mm flex dsk only to find this was the beginning of y problems. When I bought the trans the flex disk was on it and being the cheap skate I am, I used it. Lasted three years. Today, I found out that the yoke on the trans is a 75mm, not a 80mm and the yahoo PO forced fit it. So I will now try to source a 87 300 ds and a yoke.
Far less of an issue, popped a silicone reducer, split it in the middle. The non reinforced ones are real POS.
(08-26-2013, 01:03 PM)winmutt This was one of those "other" things I was supposed to check after a few weeks.
(08-26-2013, 01:03 PM)winmutt This was one of those "other" things I was supposed to check after a few weeks.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I used nothing but gorilla tape to make a 45° boot once. Held 8psi for the 200 miles home, no lie.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The sad part is that I ended up reworking my tubing to remove some 45* couplers.... And ended up 1 straight couple short. Guess who had to reuse a busted reducer as a straight coupler? 4 more straight coupled in the mail just in case....
(08-26-2013, 02:16 PM)Duncansport(08-26-2013, 01:03 PM)winmutt This was one of those "other" things I was supposed to check after a few weeks.
What the?
(08-26-2013, 02:16 PM)Duncansport(08-26-2013, 01:03 PM)winmutt This was one of those "other" things I was supposed to check after a few weeks.
What the?
So continuing my ghetto fabrication, I went about removing some of the 45* adapters and mis counted the number of straight adapters I had. So *what* did I do? You guessed it. Cut the 2.5" off the crap reducer and put it on. Test drive, the tbolt clamp on it broke. Went to autozoo and picked up another one. Yesterday, popped the crap coupler off at 3rd gear WOT. Did a work parking lot fix last night and was sure it was good.....
Blew it again today 3rd gear WOT coming into work.... Where is that tracking number on my reinforced couplers? Found this pretty decent deal : http://www.ebay.com/itm/281154533569?ssP...1497.l2649
Gonna have to put a bit of a lip on the pipe this time.
Hairspray does a good job of helping couplers stay on metal pipes.
Dog woke me up at 4am. Armed with my new couplers I've spent the morning reworking the entire mounting. I cut into the radiator mounts and pulled the intecooler in about 1.5" at the top which gave about 1/2" more clearance at the bottom. I'm trying to verify that if I spend the loot on a front spoiler that it will fit.
Found this guy : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...1326507636
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Why are you using the $5 HF screwdrivers? Throw those out and get the green/orange $20 they're worth every cent.
EDIT: I guess they changed the colors, but the mold looks teh same. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-pro...94607.html
I've been abusing these for a while and the tips really are heat treated, I haven't rounded any off yet.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-30-2013, 09:45 AM)Simpler=Better Why are you using the $5 HF screwdrivers? Throw those out and get the green/orange $20 they're worth every cent.
(08-30-2013, 09:45 AM)Simpler=Better Why are you using the $5 HF screwdrivers? Throw those out and get the green/orange $20 they're worth every cent.
The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
(08-30-2013, 11:44 AM)willbhere4u The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
(08-30-2013, 11:44 AM)willbhere4u The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
(08-25-2013, 08:44 PM)winmutt Problems every where.
Popped a flexdisk on Fri driving into work, popped my air bags with it. Quite shocking. Located a harder lemforder 80mm flex dsk only to find this was the beginning of y problems. When I bought the trans the flex disk was on it and being the cheap skate I am, I used it. Lasted three years. Today, I found out that the yoke on the trans is a 75mm, not a 80mm and the yahoo PO forced fit it. So I will now try to source a 87 300 ds and a yoke.
Far less of an issue, popped a silicone reducer, split it in the middle. The non reinforced ones are real POS.
(08-25-2013, 08:44 PM)winmutt Problems every where.
Popped a flexdisk on Fri driving into work, popped my air bags with it. Quite shocking. Located a harder lemforder 80mm flex dsk only to find this was the beginning of y problems. When I bought the trans the flex disk was on it and being the cheap skate I am, I used it. Lasted three years. Today, I found out that the yoke on the trans is a 75mm, not a 80mm and the yahoo PO forced fit it. So I will now try to source a 87 300 ds and a yoke.
Far less of an issue, popped a silicone reducer, split it in the middle. The non reinforced ones are real POS.
(08-30-2013, 11:44 AM)willbhere4u The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
(08-30-2013, 11:44 AM)willbhere4u The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
(08-31-2013, 10:34 AM)HaavardPYA(08-30-2013, 11:44 AM)willbhere4u The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
I`ve heard that the cooling is better with coolers mounted with an angle. Seen it on many racecars etc.. I may be on deep water here..
(08-31-2013, 10:34 AM)HaavardPYA(08-30-2013, 11:44 AM)willbhere4u The straighter you can get it to sit. the better the airflow will be
I`ve heard that the cooling is better with coolers mounted with an angle. Seen it on many racecars etc.. I may be on deep water here..
that was kinda the way i understood it as well, thats why i cut a bunch to make it straight up and down. i have seen angled intercoolers but as mentioned they had an air dam that directed air to them. all in all, these arnt top notch race cars. heck mine is a cobbled mess. and thats what makes it so much fun! lol but any intercooler has to better then no intercooler, right? angled/straight big/small something is better then nothing.
Had a fun day at the Ford Ecoboost Drive Challenge where I got to push a 200hp turbo Fiesta (gocart) around an autocross course for 4 laps. I did pretty good, in the top 15% about 1.5s behind top score. Then I scored a 717.410 with an 80mm yoke from some russians out in the sticks. Pretty happy with the score.
man, who do i have to hurt in a very bad way to push a 200 HP turbo charged go kart with glass around a track? you lucky b@$t@rd! and nice find on the getrag. and russians, in the back woods of GA? oh no i told every one they were invading! they didnt believe me! and your dealing with the enemy! lol side note they got another one???lol
Those Fiestas are tight FWD's. They are engineered for tight right down to the subframe bushings. Same for the Focus. I'd like to get my W124 there without making it a miserable racecar.
I am off friday and have everything I need for the drivetrain. Dropping everything from the transmission yoke on back. With the weather cooling, dyno time is coming!
Smooth as glass. The yoke was indeed bent, however I think I am going to have to redo the whole driveshaft. Its the smaller diameter one and I dont think there is enough rubber around the carrier bushing on the drive shaft. Still getting the "bucking" at certain light loads. I will post up on the various subframe and diff mounts and create a "meta thread" incorporating all of the available options, including Ake's poly subframes bushings.
Also, I threw in a 210 rear bar, 17 or 18mm. Not sure I like the lack of over steer, it might have been too much for the 400e bar on the front (time for something bigger up front?) Either way it was a perfect fit after I move some fuel lines around.
Part 2 finished. Next week or 2 I need to spend more time on the lips and then a few final coats of clearcoat to cover the lip as well (and some noticeable spots I missedon the inside of the rim.
Not bad for my first try!
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
That machine is looking gorgeous! You need to get an insurance adjuster out there to make note of your "restoration" so if it gets knobbed you're not up the creek.
For the driveshaft junk, have you considered biting the bullet and going to U joints?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The cluster is out today getting ready for boost sensor. All I need is enough wire to make it happen and a splitter and some tubing.
Boost sensor is mounted, wired and tee'd into the Alda line. With any luck I'll have a few min at lunch today to plug in my test arduino and get some initial settings.
One thing I have noticed is that there seems to be no altitude compensation. I have an altitude sensor as well but I am not sure that I want to spend the time setting it up. I may just hardcode a compensator for altitude.
boost = analogRead(A0) * 0.046786 - ambientPSI //(3.3 / 1023.0 * 14.5038);
It's not perfect but its a start:
boost = analogRead(A0) * 0.046786 - ambientPSI //(3.3 / 1023.0 * 14.5038);
Thanks Ray! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFyMZ4urR9U
Pretty sure that the boost sensor needs to be calibrated.
Testing for leaks tonight. I see a max of 7psi and I dont see any boost until very late. Either I have leaks or this intercooler is crap. I am leaning to the latter.
I found two minor leaks, one on the wastegate hose and anther on the transition piece from the turbo to the piping. I also noticed i had a fair amount of air coming out via the valve cover vent. Rolled the engine over and it lessened.
Tomorrow I got to the mountains to take the kids to a pumpkin patch. Will see if I can grab some nice shots (ya the kids too).
Little leak made a pretty big difference. I now see 2psi in 5th where I wasn't seeing anything before and it def spools better.Tomorrow I will put a manual boost controller in place and see how it goes.
I have the manual boost controller dialed in 3/4 of its adjustment and its quite fun without crazy amounts of egt's. I am pretty happy and going to try a 1/4 mile run. Cheaper than a dyno... Front end is rattling looks like its time for a belt tensioner.
Lots of people would rather use a 1/4 mile to estimate hp rather than a dyno because dynos vary so much
(10-05-2013, 09:18 PM)winmutt Front end is rattling looks like its time for a belt tensioner.
(10-05-2013, 09:18 PM)winmutt Front end is rattling looks like its time for a belt tensioner.
Hung out with NGARover today. Beautiful drive in the "fingers" of the appalachians. While I was there I turned out the ALDA and she is back to hauling ass. Right into 1300+ EGT. Going to try adding water injection before I look at a new exhaust.
(11-02-2013, 07:25 PM)winmutt Hung out with NGARover today. Beautiful drive in the "fingers" of the appalachians. While I was there I turned out the ALDA and she is back to hauling ass. Right into 1300+ EGT. Going to try adding water injection before I look at a new exhaust.
(11-02-2013, 07:25 PM)winmutt Hung out with NGARover today. Beautiful drive in the "fingers" of the appalachians. While I was there I turned out the ALDA and she is back to hauling ass. Right into 1300+ EGT. Going to try adding water injection before I look at a new exhaust.
How's it spool with that bigger pump?
Probably spools faster on a 603 than a 617 anyhow
I got a chance to adjust timing this weekend, retarded it a bit ( and here I thought it was late). Runs alot smoother from cold start I think but it has also been warmer out. Down a little on power but I am getting some wierd boost readings as well. More importantly is that EGT is down alot. I am hard pressed to get it over 1450 now.
(01-20-2014, 10:55 PM)tjts1 Did you measure the timing before and after in any way? Mine was advanced full retard by the previous owner. I just adjusted it back a bit recently. I need to get one of those lock pin things.
(01-20-2014, 10:55 PM)tjts1 Did you measure the timing before and after in any way? Mine was advanced full retard by the previous owner. I just adjusted it back a bit recently. I need to get one of those lock pin things.
Last night I spend 30min adjusting the ALDA out some, there has to be a better way to get to it on the w124. What I wouldnt have done to get one of dieselmekens external adjustables!
Power is back and EGT's are a bit higher but still lower than before. Haven't really opened it up yet but haven't hit 1400* yet either.
High EGT's at WOT are back without a doubt. I am only seeing 11psi, I am not sure if this is due to leaks in the piping, the wastegate or some other issue. I find it hard to believe its a fueling issue . Also wondering if with more boost EGT's will go down. I've not seen any intake temp graphs for the HX30.