my b@$t@rd coupe project.
my b@$t@rd coupe project.
im ordering a few extra not a whole extra set. om616 said he was interested in piggy backing my order and may get some as well. for 2.20 a nozzle when im already ordering elements, its worth the risk. im cheap. oh wait i think i have said that before...
well the trailer is hooked up and ready to roll, i had a half a day shift to work, and a night shift to work, get a nap and head north to get my new coupe! being the N/A it should have the M pump and a 3.46 rear end right??? well i guess if i can get this one running ill say f**k the fender dump exhaust and just run a hood stack like i have been wanting to do! lol wish me luck gentlemen! then it will be saving up some more for the elements and nozzles!
You can see that diff info on the case on the bottom left under all the soot and dirt. Or maybe decipher it from the part number on the speedo or this list
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-2570.html
Looking at the actual diff would be the most sure way.
well the other coupe is home. it may very well end up being a full on parts car... shes pretty ruff. interior is pretty decent, better then the 82. and the shocks look almost new. but lots of rust on the under side... i guess ill play with her heart tomorrow and see if she roars to life... if not parts! ill post some good pics of it tomorrow but i got one or two of it on the trailer.
it looks way cleaner in the pics... and these are from a distance... ill get some close ups tomorrow.
well i still need to get some pics, but it came to life. i got a vid of it roaring to life for the first time in 4 years and trying to run away... i think i have found out why, the throttle linkages are all really stiff and need some lube i purged the fuel system from pre lift pump to injectors with seafoam. i wanted to change the spin on filter but auto zoo didnt have one in stock so ill order some later. i did try starting it on the nasty fuel that is in it and no dice. so seafoam, and lots of cranking later roar! the ol lady was spraying the either, so its kinda heavy...lol but it worked... she got the hang of it after a few starts. i got it running and kinda idling on the paint thinner smelling diesel fuel in the tank but i really need to change all the filters get all that old fuel out of it and some new clean fuel in it. check the tranny fluid because it wouldnt go into gear and some new belts. because there are none...lol so i let it get warm then quit playing with it. but hey it runs.
^^^click on this pic its a link to the vid^^^
after watching this, i realized i proly cranked on it about twice as long as i should have. but oh well.
Maybe will run. New filters and a jerry can of fresh diesel rigged up. Skip the stock tank it maybe fouled all up.
Might take off the injector lines and see if they're clear. Make sure that no air is coming in with the fuel and that the lift pump seems to work.
I bet you get it driving soon.
(09-09-2013, 02:57 PM)larsalan Maybe will run. New filters and a jerry can of fresh diesel rigged up. Skip the stock tank it maybe fouled all up.
Might take off the injector lines and see if they're clear. Make sure that no air is coming in with the fuel and that the lift pump seems to work.
I bet you get it driving soon.
(09-09-2013, 02:57 PM)larsalan Maybe will run. New filters and a jerry can of fresh diesel rigged up. Skip the stock tank it maybe fouled all up.
Might take off the injector lines and see if they're clear. Make sure that no air is coming in with the fuel and that the lift pump seems to work.
I bet you get it driving soon.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I wouldn't run it on straight seafoam but that's just me.
Also, using ether on an indirect injection engine with glow plugs is a good way to break something. Spray WD40 instead.
I bet if you ran it on clean diesel from a jar it would be A-OK.
For the transmission fluid check the cooler lines, if they're cut that's an "easy" fix.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Return lines? The ones that hop from injector to injector? I use 1/8in fuel line on that.
For the trans fluid I buy either generic brand john deere or case specification stuff. Cost me $20 for a 2 gallon at rural king ^tm. Their generic brand is 'harvest king'^tm.
Maybe get you a new trans filter for about $20. A can of de-greaser is always good too get a fresh look at where she's bleeding from.
I'd go real light on that ether and maybe back up on that 14mm idle screw if the pump is trying to push it into runaway mode.
well my pop tester is here, from india, i think i got shipping confirmation saturday, dhl... wow. thats fast! and the shipping was free! whats even better then that is one of the test lines fits chevy mercedes ford and vw injectors! im not sure what the other line fits but hey maybe some day ill get to use it... i guess now i really need to order those injector nozzles... seeing as how i really dont want to use stock nozzles...
You shouldn't run any alcohol based additive in a diesel (seafoam), it's says its okay to run, but it's hard on stuff. My IP guy stated that very clearly to me several times haha.
(09-10-2013, 03:17 PM)MFSuper90 You shouldn't run any alcohol based additive in a diesel (seafoam), it's says its okay to run, but it's hard on stuff. My IP guy stated that very clearly to me several times haha.
(09-10-2013, 03:17 PM)MFSuper90 You shouldn't run any alcohol based additive in a diesel (seafoam), it's says its okay to run, but it's hard on stuff. My IP guy stated that very clearly to me several times haha.
so, got the pop tester together, and got some pics of the new coupe. i have a set of injectors out of a car now and played with some. one had a really bad spray pattern, the other two i played with had alright patterns but popped around 1500-1800 psi. shouldnt they pop around 2000-2300? and ill proly try n rebuild a set of injectors for my brother-in-law and see how that goes. he needs new filters too but i think this will make a big difference. i think i may wait for nozzles for my 82 coupe but the 78 may need it now just to run right...lol we will see... any ways pics!
I apologize, I worded that wrong. Even though it is petroleum based it has isopropyl alcohol in it, you can even smell it. The guy that builds our pumps did the pumps on most of the top tractors at bowling green, and I know him quite well, I'll take his word for it.
Not trying to argue or cause a ruckus, I'm just saying. But if it works for you, don't pay attention to me, in just sayin
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The coupe looks good
On a side note, NFW I'll ever run seafoam through an injection pump. Definitely via the air side on a gasser, but no way in hell through the fuel system.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
well some tranny fluid, more diesel and the wrong belt... but the water pump is turning now, its keeping cool. no power steering but drove it around the block... it needs some more work, but i think if i put a little more into it it would make a decent temp driver. i could leave the truck alone. still be driving a nice coupe, and be working on the other one.
my two coupes lined up together.
click IMG for vid^^^^ brunhilde's first drive in over 4 years.
its the womans car.
well, i finally got the injection bench set up.
i have pulled apart a spare set, got 3 out of the 5 working in spec 110-120 bar, the other two the needle wont come out of the nozzle and they have poor spray pattern and hi pressure, one of them leaks a little with pressure. 3 only soaked in break parts cleaner for a half hour, i let the other two set over night and still no dice. i think im just going to order all new nozzles, and live with the injectors that are in the car until i have new nozzles. not only that the elements will be coming with the nozzles so i just need to get them ordered. oh i have also contacted a company about shims. its a big custom metal fab shop but they do shims gaskets and things of that nature. i think i will just try n buy bulk shims that way i know i have what i will need. while im not going make it my job to rebuild injectors, i would like to have what i need as i do have a lot of injectors between me and a few friends...lol
Hey,
Turbo is 135 BAR or nominal 1950 or 1975, depending on spray patter and cone. New is 2,000 psi
NA (Non Turbo) is 115 BAR or nominal 1650. New is 1,700 psi
Do not set your injectors more than 50PSI +/-. So, for example, if its a turbo, they should range from 1900, or in the middle at 1950, or 2000. That's FSM. However, that's garbage. They should be 1950 - 2000 for example, so that is 25+/-. Even that is somewhat broad and close to garbage. I shoot for 15PSI. So, an injector would be 1950 with a range of 1940's to 1965is. That is just an example. If you get new, try 2,000 PSI with a range of 1975 to 2025 as the max. Ideally, it should be around 1990 to 2010.
Hope that helps.
(09-18-2013, 09:13 PM)Greazzer Hey,
Turbo is 135 BAR or nominal 1950 or 1975, depending on spray patter and cone. New is 2,000 psi
NA (Non Turbo) is 115 BAR or nominal 1650. New is 1,700 psi
Do not set your injectors more than 50PSI +/-. So, for example, if its a turbo, they should range from 1900, or in the middle at 1950, or 2000. That's FSM. However, that's garbage. They should be 1950 - 2000 for example, so that is 25+/-. Even that is somewhat broad and close to garbage. I shoot for 15PSI. So, an injector would be 1950 with a range of 1940's to 1965is. That is just an example. If you get new, try 2,000 PSI with a range of 1975 to 2025 as the max. Ideally, it should be around 1990 to 2010.
Hope that helps.
(09-18-2013, 09:13 PM)Greazzer Hey,
Turbo is 135 BAR or nominal 1950 or 1975, depending on spray patter and cone. New is 2,000 psi
NA (Non Turbo) is 115 BAR or nominal 1650. New is 1,700 psi
Do not set your injectors more than 50PSI +/-. So, for example, if its a turbo, they should range from 1900, or in the middle at 1950, or 2000. That's FSM. However, that's garbage. They should be 1950 - 2000 for example, so that is 25+/-. Even that is somewhat broad and close to garbage. I shoot for 15PSI. So, an injector would be 1950 with a range of 1940's to 1965is. That is just an example. If you get new, try 2,000 PSI with a range of 1975 to 2025 as the max. Ideally, it should be around 1990 to 2010.
Hope that helps.
We got shims from the guy that does our pumps, be ready to pay for them. You can't use just any shim, they have to be the hard ones
well, got fed up with the 78 sitting in the back yard. i bought belts, tranny fluid anti freeze, and i had some crush washers laying around from the packs i bought to fix the fuel leaks on the 82, and it runs and drives and doesnt leak fluids! tranny still flairs when going into gear, but i hope some seafoam will fix that problem. i still need to do it to the 82 as well but i have a filter for the 82 and not the 78... the blinker fuse is going bad... it flashes really fast. but over all after i turned the idle down a little it does pretty good, i still need a new battery, currently using the one out of the black 82 coupe. but after it warms up no glow plugs needed and no white smoke or bad rough idle. im kinda impressed with this lil non turbo.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
played with climate control, def works with heat so thats all im concerned with for now. tranny seems to be shifting better the more i drive it. may drive it to work tomorrow... dunno yet.
(09-24-2013, 06:40 PM)Simpler=Better fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
(09-24-2013, 06:40 PM)Simpler=Better fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
(09-25-2013, 09:30 AM)MFSuper90(09-24-2013, 06:40 PM)Simpler=Better fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
Injector shims?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-25-2013, 09:30 AM)MFSuper90(09-24-2013, 06:40 PM)Simpler=Better fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
Injector shims?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
for the shims, im not opposed to buying a large pack with every thing i need to do multiple types of injectors and a bunch of sets. there are many injectors to do, and i only see more in my future. i feel it would behoove me to just be ready, even if that means dropping 3-400 bucks on a large pack and just having what i need when i need it. just google searching diesel injector shims comes up with some options. it may be like dealing with the chineese company over the nozzles and elements. but ill get something.
anyways, i drove brunhilde about 35 miles today, fuel sending unit is spotty, but i think i can fix that. i have some breaks trying to stick, it pulls right, and the pass side wobbles pretty bad at 70-75. but no hic-ups so far. i need to wash it, it sat under a tree for a week or two until i got bored of it sitting back there all alone. so its kinda dirty. but here is a quick walk around and drive off
^^CLICK IMG FOR VID^^^
(09-25-2013, 09:48 AM)Simpler=Better(09-25-2013, 09:30 AM)MFSuper90(09-24-2013, 06:40 PM)Simpler=Better fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
Injector shims?
I have heard rumors that you can cut up or punch our feeler gauges to make your own injector shims. Theoretically the feeler gauges should be made from a decently strong material.
I've never done it, just sharing a trick
(09-25-2013, 09:48 AM)Simpler=Better(09-25-2013, 09:30 AM)MFSuper90(09-24-2013, 06:40 PM)Simpler=Better fluid/filter then check your vacuum and bowden cable-they can make the tranny flare.
For shims the cheap hack way is to cut up/ punch out feeler gauges
Injector shims?
I have heard rumors that you can cut up or punch our feeler gauges to make your own injector shims. Theoretically the feeler gauges should be made from a decently strong material.
I've never done it, just sharing a trick
ok, so i found a company (US DIESEL . com) that makes a shim kit for $245. i got an email back from a guy named brad very nice, and pretty helpful. I still need to order nozzles and elements, but brunhilde is taking up a lot of my funds. she needed belts, fluds, breaks, return lines (i had) and a few other things, any ways it cost me almost $100 bucks to get her back on the road this week. and she still needs a new battery and some more love. but im not afraid to drive her now...lol once i get all the injection stuff ordered, ill start working on gerda again. ::igh::: i have been eye balling cheap 5x112 rims on craigs list lately, i dont mind running some 15's or 16's on the black coupe, but i really think i want some chrome 18's on the cream coupe. i have read that 18's are a bad ride on the w123 chassis, but i have seen pics of people running them. anyone with some real world exp wanna chime in? is it mainly off set problems? using spacers causing bad ride? i have only ever had to use spacers once on a set of 20's and i knew being 20's they were gonna be a ruff ride, so i was expecting it.
My wheels are 16x7 I believe, they don't give me any problems
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Spacers won't cause a bad ride, so long as they're properly centered (bug centering ring or a dial indicator). Guy at work thre spacers and 18" BBs rims on his E-something-something 2000's merc. No issues.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
ok, dont flame me, but i was thinking about trying to do hellaflush on the 78. (fire blanket on) so rolling fenders and tire stretching was in my future anyway if i do it.. im not one for fads, but i do think the hellaflush look is kinda cool. maybe not practical, but it does look good. what really got me thinking about it was all the cheap 5x112 rims that are between 18-20" that needed tires anyways... sigh. it seems i cant make enough money to spend on these cars...
You really like hellaflush? Not flaming
the best looking ones ive seen were VWs... i dunno i thought it was a euro thing...i thought it was just common with hondas because like a cheap asian wh**e you can do any and everything to them on the cheap with no regrets...anyways i think its sick when the fender looks like it is sitting on the rim. and i know tire stretching has been around for a while, it was a trick i first learned about in back in my mini trucking days to be able to tuck larger and wider rims. but that was all about tucking as much rim as possible, this is about making it look like the fender is sitting on the rim.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Yeah do whatever you want just don't purposefully blow it up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
So what ever happening to this project, and the DV cutting? I've been pondering upon it the past couple weeks
(08-24-2013, 05:16 AM)1911diesel(08-23-2013, 09:23 PM)lgreeley83(08-23-2013, 02:09 PM)1911diesel i just want the b*tch to shift without flaring
Manual trans
you got one laying around for sale?
(08-24-2013, 05:16 AM)1911diesel(08-23-2013, 09:23 PM)lgreeley83(08-23-2013, 02:09 PM)1911diesel i just want the b*tch to shift without flaring
Manual trans
you got one laying around for sale?