Concise Oil Survey
Concise Oil Survey
Hey Guys, since peoples experiences with oils are all over the place I thought it might be fun to run a quick poll. Please vote above, even if you don't want to leave your specs. Thank You--Nate
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Suggested Format:
-Preferred Oil Type- Weight, etc; Synthetic/Dino; Price paid per Gallon or Liter
-Miles on engine-
-Oil change interval- Cost/Miles=?
-Notes on Oil:
e.g. -Why are you running this oil? Soot control, cheap, noise, etc.
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Note:
Hey Guys, since peoples experiences with oils are all over the place I thought it might be fun to run a quick poll. Please vote above, even if you don't want to leave your specs. Thank You--Nate
----------------------------------------------
Suggested Format:
-Preferred Oil Type- Weight, etc; Synthetic/Dino; Price paid per Gallon or Liter
-Miles on engine-
-Oil change interval- Cost/Miles=?
-Notes on Oil:
e.g. -Why are you running this oil? Soot control, cheap, noise, etc.
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140k
1 million dollars/5k miles
As Mercedes states, diesel does not evaporate from the oil like gasoline. Otherwise I'd go farther.
raysorenson
09-06-2013, 06:38 AM #210 30 in summer
140k
1 million dollars/5k miles
As Mercedes states, diesel does not evaporate from the oil like gasoline. Otherwise I'd go farther.
No idea mileage. odo says 410k
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I use 15-40 dino year round and add a bottle of rislone^tm 'ring sealer'. That stuff thickens it up even more.
No idea mileage. odo says 410k
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
For the N/A gasser 220k "CAM2 partial synthetic 10-30" it loved that oil. Got it at my local shop
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-06-2013, 08:28 AM #4Delvac 15-40 dyno. Like $10 per gallon. 220k on the 617, ran rotella syn one winter to 8k for easier starts. I stick with Delvac for my diesel and motorcycles because of soot control, it's supposedly the best.
For the N/A gasser 220k "CAM2 partial synthetic 10-30" it loved that oil. Got it at my local shop
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
09-06-2013, 09:42 AM #5Rotella 5w40 full synthetic 87 300sdl 215,000 I change it between 5-7k miles depending on how dirty it looks
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Put the bulk of the miles I've driven this year on "Johannah," the '86 SDL I got back on March first at a sprightly 161k. Every fluid was changed the following morning; previous crankcase oil was a complete mystery. First oil change interval at 4800. Received the first oil analysis report two weeks ago. She got a clean bill of health. Second interval to be a repeat of first then up to 7500 for the third. Ideal OCI is 10k.
This is the first 603a I've owned (and driven) and did quite a bit of digging in preparation. Research showed a consensus on synthetic oil use with this motor returning the greatest benefit. I chose the synthetic path primarily to extend OCI's and possibly lower costs. Currently, the engine isn't guilty of leaking or burning any crank oil. Oil level at the dipstick showed nominal change over the first interval. My OCD commands that I check my oil before every third trip. Would love for it to calm the lifter chatter at cylinder two and be with the side of camp that has seen their lifter noise fade from memory. Sigh. Extending oil changes out another possible 2500 from what I perform them at with my 617a's and Delvac would put a huge kool-aid grin on my mug. ;-[D
MBZ123
Rotella T6, 15-40W. Typically 24 a gal OTD at wally's. So for this first change, like 60 bux for 5k.
Put the bulk of the miles I've driven this year on "Johannah," the '86 SDL I got back on March first at a sprightly 161k. Every fluid was changed the following morning; previous crankcase oil was a complete mystery. First oil change interval at 4800. Received the first oil analysis report two weeks ago. She got a clean bill of health. Second interval to be a repeat of first then up to 7500 for the third. Ideal OCI is 10k.
This is the first 603a I've owned (and driven) and did quite a bit of digging in preparation. Research showed a consensus on synthetic oil use with this motor returning the greatest benefit. I chose the synthetic path primarily to extend OCI's and possibly lower costs. Currently, the engine isn't guilty of leaking or burning any crank oil. Oil level at the dipstick showed nominal change over the first interval. My OCD commands that I check my oil before every third trip. Would love for it to calm the lifter chatter at cylinder two and be with the side of camp that has seen their lifter noise fade from memory. Sigh. Extending oil changes out another possible 2500 from what I perform them at with my 617a's and Delvac would put a huge kool-aid grin on my mug. ;-[D
MBZ123
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I do every 3k, 15w40 mobil. It looks dirty as hell as soon as I put it in so I don't wanna go any longer than that. Around 250k on my om617
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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