what is this and why is it leaking???
what is this and why is it leaking???
well, i thought my 78 was leak free, after sitting in front of the house over night on the brick, i noticed a small stream where it ran down the road to the curb. and its about a gallon shy. so upon inspection this thing is leaking... my 82 has one, but it looks different and not as much running into it i think, i may need to go look at it again. anyways the 78 seems to leak more then the random one on the 82...:igh::: chasing leaks on these old benzs is getting tire some. diesel, oil, tranny fluid, anti freeze. ::hangs head:: any ways pics of this leaking box tied into my rad system.
this is where it looks to be leaking between the plate and top.
can i just delete this thing? is it important? hell what is it? what does it do? pre heat the rad fluid with the block heater? i thought it was added on the 82 to help with the waste oil kit. the 2 SDs we have dont have one, and i dont rember seeing one on the 2 300Ds my buddys have... any help would be great guys. thanks in advance.
Its the heater control valve
i have no idea, it sits on the passanger side fender in front of the wheel well. rad lines come from fire wall to the back and thru to the rad. 4 one on each side. and a bunch of small lines that i have no idea what they are that go to the top of the gray/black box.
They where designed by Chrysler and uses in early w123 and all w116 they are made of plastic and they crack. There is a company that make an aluminum replacement one but they are expensive $800-$1000 . I found one in the junk yard and had in a w116 300sd way back in the day.
sooooo, its not necessary? or, could i pull it apart, jb weld the f**k out of it and hope it works? im pretty good with the jb weld... lol its like duct tape for me...lol
(09-26-2013, 10:20 AM)1911diesel sooooo, its not necessary? or, could i pull it apart, jb weld the f**k out of it and hope it works? im pretty good with the jb weld... lol its like duct tape for me...lol
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-26-2013, 10:20 AM)1911diesel sooooo, its not necessary? or, could i pull it apart, jb weld the f**k out of it and hope it works? im pretty good with the jb weld... lol its like duct tape for me...lol
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Humm so after i found out what it was, thanks willbehere4u, some searching and it seems that the vac system on it is screwed anyway it only blows on defrost, and the aux pump works so i can delete the valve and let it run straight heat all the time since the ac isnt hooked up anyways. ill proly remove both of them, as long as i have heat to the cabin im good. i dont think i will even venture into playing with trying to repair the vac system on that thing. and im sure as heck not paying more then i have in the car for a new one. thanks again for the speedy reply willbehere4u.
You could use a cheap heater valve and a choke cable to turn it on and off manually. or a plane garden valve for winter use only
(09-26-2013, 04:43 PM)willbhere4u You could use a cheap heater valve and a choke cable to turn it on and off manually. or a plane garden valve for winter use only
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-26-2013, 04:43 PM)willbhere4u You could use a cheap heater valve and a choke cable to turn it on and off manually. or a plane garden valve for winter use only
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
There is an aftermarket maker of a replacement valve for your application, I would have to look into who it is. It evidently works better than the stock one
yes and its like $1000... no thanks... i just deleted it. still got heat to the cabin so screw it.
Why not use a generic electric valve?
i dont know why the valve is necessary, if the electric pump pumps water to the cabin, then why do you need a valve? with out the valve isnt it just like an old chevy heater core, always having fluid flowing, only not near as much because the pump isnt running... all i know is i have the same amount of buttons working and the heat still blows in the cabin with out the thing and im not leaking rad fluid anymore.
you make me sound more back woods then i really am... its been a long time since ive used bailing wire, its mig wire or coat hangers any more...
(09-27-2013, 08:07 PM)1911diesel you make me sound more back woods then i really am... its been a long time since ive used bailing wire, its mig wire or coat hangers any more...
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-27-2013, 08:07 PM)1911diesel you make me sound more back woods then i really am... its been a long time since ive used bailing wire, its mig wire or coat hangers any more...
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
hey ive screwed screws in with dimes, that dont make a dime a screwdriver. ill use what ever is at hand to fix a problem until a more suitable fix can be implemented. granted flux cored mig wire has the tendency to break, the solid stuff works pretty good a short time...lol depending on what your trying to hold with it... ask me how i know...