STD Tuning Drivetrain shift bushings, buy or fabricate?

shift bushings, buy or fabricate?

shift bushings, buy or fabricate?

 
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bricktron
'77 240D

174
10-23-2013, 02:01 AM #1
http://mercedes-190.co.uk/topic/6528449/1/

has anyone here tried these brass bushings? are they a meaningful upgrade from OEM? (you have to scroll down a ways to see photos of the brass bits.)

my shifting seems kind of sloppy and given the difficulty of getting at both ends of the linkage rods, i'd be willing to have the bushings machined if they were as fabulous as represented in the british thread above.
This post was last modified: 10-23-2013, 02:02 AM by bricktron.


english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates




bricktron
10-23-2013, 02:01 AM #1

http://mercedes-190.co.uk/topic/6528449/1/

has anyone here tried these brass bushings? are they a meaningful upgrade from OEM? (you have to scroll down a ways to see photos of the brass bits.)

my shifting seems kind of sloppy and given the difficulty of getting at both ends of the linkage rods, i'd be willing to have the bushings machined if they were as fabulous as represented in the british thread above.



english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates




raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
10-23-2013, 09:24 AM #2
Yes, those are the ones you want. There are other brass bushings you can get to go in the levers on the side of the trans. They should help some but the ones shown in the linked thread that go in the shifter are a problem area.

New stock replacements should be fine too, but they have durability issues. They stock bushings are essentially 2 metal sleeves with vulcanized rubber in between to provide some flex. The rubber comes apart over time.

I made my own out of 19mm delrin/acetal rod stock on my lathe. It probably didn't take me 20 minutes.

There will also be several other parts of the shifter that are worn that should be replaced. I found a rebuild parts list on 190rev.net for the 16v shifter, which is what I have. The parts were affordable.

What shifter do you have? I could point out the wear areas on a parts diagram if needed.
raysorenson
10-23-2013, 09:24 AM #2

Yes, those are the ones you want. There are other brass bushings you can get to go in the levers on the side of the trans. They should help some but the ones shown in the linked thread that go in the shifter are a problem area.

New stock replacements should be fine too, but they have durability issues. They stock bushings are essentially 2 metal sleeves with vulcanized rubber in between to provide some flex. The rubber comes apart over time.

I made my own out of 19mm delrin/acetal rod stock on my lathe. It probably didn't take me 20 minutes.

There will also be several other parts of the shifter that are worn that should be replaced. I found a rebuild parts list on 190rev.net for the 16v shifter, which is what I have. The parts were affordable.

What shifter do you have? I could point out the wear areas on a parts diagram if needed.

bricktron
'77 240D

174
10-23-2013, 10:46 PM #3
hi ray, thanks for chipping in. i have the stock 4-speed shifter on my 77 240D but no idea about the part number. i figure that if i redo this stuff it's one bushing at either end of the three levers (hopefully i can reuse the clips) plus, i think, one at either side of the sliding element in the shifter. i don't mind throwing a few dollars at the problem if i can get my hands on the right stuff (no lathe here!).


english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates




bricktron
10-23-2013, 10:46 PM #3

hi ray, thanks for chipping in. i have the stock 4-speed shifter on my 77 240D but no idea about the part number. i figure that if i redo this stuff it's one bushing at either end of the three levers (hopefully i can reuse the clips) plus, i think, one at either side of the sliding element in the shifter. i don't mind throwing a few dollars at the problem if i can get my hands on the right stuff (no lathe here!).



english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates




willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
10-24-2013, 09:07 AM #4
I ordered mine from rusty at buymbpart.biz but I cant find them anymore. he sent me a diagram of it so I could order them by part number

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
10-24-2013, 09:07 AM #4

I ordered mine from rusty at buymbpart.biz but I cant find them anymore. he sent me a diagram of it so I could order them by part number


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

raysorenson
Superturbo

1,162
10-24-2013, 02:49 PM #5
That's a different shifter than what those brass bushings were made for.

Here's the diagram
http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/mb/part__1_.../26_015__2

Were I to guess, 20, 14 and 44 could stand replacement, but a teardown should be done first to identify worn parts.
raysorenson
10-24-2013, 02:49 PM #5

That's a different shifter than what those brass bushings were made for.

Here's the diagram
http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/mb/part__1_.../26_015__2

Were I to guess, 20, 14 and 44 could stand replacement, but a teardown should be done first to identify worn parts.

bricktron
'77 240D

174
10-25-2013, 10:01 AM #6
well, you're right. i actually have the new bushing kit in hand, so i guess if i find mine are degraded then i can just have a machinist copy them. talk about some inaccessible parts of the car, though.... thanks for the tips.


english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates




bricktron
10-25-2013, 10:01 AM #6

well, you're right. i actually have the new bushing kit in hand, so i guess if i find mine are degraded then i can just have a machinist copy them. talk about some inaccessible parts of the car, though.... thanks for the tips.



english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates




winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
10-30-2013, 09:48 AM #7
Just pick up nylon spacers at homedepot. That's what mine came with and work like a champ.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
10-30-2013, 09:48 AM #7

Just pick up nylon spacers at homedepot. That's what mine came with and work like a champ.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

 
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