Tito's w114 with OM606, HX40 and 8mm dieselmeken pump.
Tito's w114 with OM606, HX40 and 8mm dieselmeken pump.
Hi guys, Little introduction, I'm Rico, I'm 23 years old and a expert mechanic. I'm from The Netherlands an live aprox 1km from the german border. I've always been a mercedes freak but somehow i stumbled upon team Black Smoke Racing. After checking engine mod's and other vid's I made the decision to build one. Bought a donor car, And a W123 chassis. Later I bought a W124 chassis again because of the constant changing road tax laws for older car's here.
I've finally finished my project. Have been busy with it for almost 2 years. Almost everything is homemade. De engine is a om603.912. So it's the natural aspired type. The pump is homemade and calibrated by a diesel shop. I've bought the HX35w new for 350 euro, which i think is a bargain. It has a 3.5" exhaust till about the rear axle and then continues 3" with a Simons 3" muffler. I will be upgrading to a 606 engine in the future.
The car has 525.000 km in the speedo.
It's running 1.4 bar boost. and smokes tires nicely
I'm having 2 problems at the moment, One is where the engine doesn't get enough fuel it it's warmed up and second is that the tranny flaires (it's that what you call it?) when shifting to second gear.
Yeah, shift flare, or just slipping. Superior trans parts makes a shift kit for the 722. If you're going to stick with the 722, I'd get a trans from a turbo car, build it, install a shift kit and raise line pressure so much that it shifts hard enough to break your neck.
I'm still using the stock lift pump. So that is probably the fuel supply problem. I want to change to a electric feed pump from a ordinary gasoline car. Those are about 3 bar.
I've checked the oil level of the tranny and it was way to low. Filled her up and she shifted nice and solid. But after some time it came back. Haven't checked the oil level though but there's no external oil leak. If I can't fix it I'll swap it for a manual.
Be careful with gas feed pumps, some can't handle the thicker viscosity of diesel and crap out after a short time
good prodject!
I have done the same thing
but with a kkk turbo with the same size.
if you use bosch 044 pump, it can handle the diesel fuel, and it can hold the pressure.
change to a manuell tranny, you loose so much power in the automatic.
good job, keep the good work up and inform us
and maybe a video of it?
I think already have a 044 pump laying around here somewhere. Need to search for it.
At first I wanted a automatic transmission but now I'm crying for a manual tranny. If I can't fix it I'll swap an manual tranny. What will be a good clutch-tranny setup? Keeping in mind the future upgrades?
I am Teeing off the ALDA and never see more than 8psi. I do not believe I have any leaks at this point. Sounds like a good opportunity to measure elsewhere. Thanks! I found that bar and plate IC btw.
the original 300E 240mm clutch can take it, I have a beaten 228mm blutch from a 300D and it only slipps when I try do kick it into a burnout ;p
and i have 1.5 in boost.
so a 300E 240mm will do just fine
Tranny is scrap. Shift flare is extreme at the moment. And the last gear starts to flare to. A shame... the tranny was just 124.000km old. Oh well... I guess I can do some burnouts. I love burnouts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMKNDXJtlCA
little offtopic that might help winmutt.
I t'ed off the alda valve myself, and got a masive wrong reading in boost, then I made a hole in the intake and use'd boost from there, then the boost was fine again, mayby you should try that also?
Hi,
just wondering...How did you get all 6 elements tuned equally regarding fuelsupply on low idle?
(10-30-2013, 06:16 AM)Tito I didn't calibrate the pump myself but brought it to a diesel shop. Or am I missing something? Could be that it's not done at all. Runs ok though...
(10-30-2013, 06:16 AM)Tito I didn't calibrate the pump myself but brought it to a diesel shop. Or am I missing something? Could be that it's not done at all. Runs ok though...
Did some fine tuning on the pump which turned out very well. Better spool up and way more hp. I've hit 2.5 bar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdj13aJxSGI
So that killed the tranny completely. And now it has a 717.430 gearbox. I love it But clutch can't handle it. (if you can help me out: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...utch-setup )
Going to save up some money for a 606 now.
Normally these engines are about a 1000~1200 euro's. I got this one from a guy who offered it to me. This is the first one I've ever seen in my life. They seem quite rare to me over here. I guess I'm a lucky guy. The hx35w was the same price and it was brand new how much money do you have to pay for a 606 over there? I don't expect much more?
Hey guys.
I've been gently stripping the engine and I found a n/a intake manifold for a bargain.
Everything seems good so far. I'm still not sure if I should pull the head or not... It looks quite messy down the intake. And the valves do have some pressure loss. I want to start it on his engine mount but will the oil leak out the cooler lines or is there a thermostat between the oil cooler?
And what is this huge gap in the cooling system above the fuel pump?
Can I just plug it? Can't imagine it being something important
Also still thinking about compound charge. Either by a supercharger or the stock turbo/smaller turbo. Any opinion? I want to build this thing nice and decent and not quickly build like the current engine (engine still runs great! Killed 2 driveshafts). Got a spare pump which I will ship to dieselmeken.
Oh yeah and some exhaust manifold bolts snapped off. Need to fix that....
The fuel thermostat is placed in the gap actually. I dont know is it only the euro models, but all 606.912-s that I have seen have the fuel thermostat.
You can plug it by making a plate and connecting the fuel line directly to the filter housing. And if you plan to use 603 pump, then the piping would be absolutely different from the 606 original electronic pump. Fuel filter housings are changeable.
Check the fuel lining and you will see what is missing.
Check out this extremely redneck throttle setup
Yeah.... i know.....
i was just wondering if it would be possible... It works okay. The system only works on full throttle. So the rest of the time the pump functions normally. The power is just awesome. 2.5 bar. Engine still hasn't blown up yet. gonna make me a better version today. I didn't think the blow-by would throw out so much oil
Could be a bit beefier, but looks fine. And I'm not even a redneck, eh. Thicker/higher strength cable OR better be certain you have enough spare in the trunk.
DAMN that's a leaky basterd! Are you sure that's only blow-by? If so, how is it ending up completely covering IP side of engine??? By the looks of it, you might need a seal or two on that pump or maybe the intake?
Are any of those bolt locations for the side plate non-factory?
MBZ123
It looks like a thin cable but it's okay. The stress on the cable isn't that high.
The pump and engine where completely leak free before I made this. In the valve cover there's some kind of tube so keep the oil in the engine. With the plunjers moving at speed they splatter oil everywhere. And since there's a huge gap in the side cover now it just blows it all out.
Side plate bolts are all factory. The cable holder is just screwed on there with some washers underneath it. For some reason there's a pop-rivet in the cover of the pump. Dunno why....
Ya, I would get the correct breather tube (at minimum the fitting) connected to your vc. To be thorough, you should check the function of the separator that exists inside top of the vc and confirm everything is ok.
Then get that breather tube routed to afiltered catch can or at least to the ground temporarily. Unless you insist on having that massively messy anti-rust feature!
get some burn outs on
Got my dieselmeken pump back today. Looks great!
Took the engine apart, but my cheap 12 pointed torx socket snapped. So the head still needs to come off
Going to give it some new piston rings and just look if everything is fine. Maybe some new rod bearings if they are little worn. The camshaft looks like new after + 250000 km's... Amazing.
When do you need stronger valve springs? + 3bar? And the rods? I know they're though but at which hp is it a wise move to upgrade them? It will be a daily driver.
I was going to order the elements from Dieselkontor.de but got some problems with the bill send over by e-mail. (Later got the same problem with dieselmeken, The problem was that i was using a phone). So i ordered the elements from a dutch diesel tuning shop. I thought it was Dutch Pump Performance (DPP). Costed me twice as much as dieselkontor.de
the rods in the 606 are proven ad benched at 700hp
at least from what the ovner says
the valve springs is not realy a problem if you dont get over the original rpm's
if you get a, say 7000rpm pump, you might need to consider it
EMP (and valve area + weight when something other than OEM is used) is the other significant factor beside rpm when it comes to valve springs.
After 6500rpm there are more severe issues than just valve springs to solve.