W123 Winter Mods?
W123 Winter Mods?
Will a grill cover and/or underhood insulation actually keep enough heat in to last 9hrs in subzero temps?
I also suggested plasti-dipping his hood black but he thinks I'm crazy.
Any tips from our cold neighbors? (Besides battery/starter maintenance)
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
My brother is a noob with a 240d in upstate New York. He's concerned about being stranded in the vast, plugless parking lot at work.
Will a grill cover and/or underhood insulation actually keep enough heat in to last 9hrs in subzero temps?
I also suggested plasti-dipping his hood black but he thinks I'm crazy.
Any tips from our cold neighbors? (Besides battery/starter maintenance)
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
None of that is going to keep a block warm for 9hrs. I would say make sure to cycle the glow plugs 2 or 3 times to be sure they're good and hot before cranking. And have a good battery to get the fastest crank possible.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-15-2013, 12:38 PM #3Get a battery blanket, some 5w40 oil, and Mercedes recommends in super cold temperatures to add some kerosene or maybe a tiny bit of gas to the diesel, I forget the amount though.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
They also make heating pads that heat your engine oil and trans oil, I know they use them in Alaska and below zero conditions
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Even at close to zero temps my car starts pretty well if I cycle glow plugs twice
They also make heating pads that heat your engine oil and trans oil, I know they use them in Alaska and below zero conditions
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
LiL Micky
DirtDiesel
11-15-2013, 02:08 PM #5run a spare battery in your trunk. order yourself a 12 volt blot heater and timer. wire the battery for only the block heater and use the alternator to recharge. ive been wanting to do this for some time
LiL Micky
Has he adjusted the valves yet?
reamed the glow plug holes?
check the glow plug function?
gotten the injectors balanced?
checked his timing?
replacement fuel filters in the trunk?
how are the alternator brushes?
how old is the battery?
block heater and/or radiator hose heater?
Does the thermostat work right?
does his temp gauge read properly?
has the oil been changed since he bought it?
trans fluid?
diff fluid?
on topic, all of the above with diesel rated synthetics and:
+battery trickle charger
+radiator hose heater
+Grill block
+electric fan that doesn't kick on until you're running hot
+good, heavy jumper cables
+AAA subscription
In the parking lot, a fuel-fired heater (warblo or equiv-around $400) is the only way to get it going. Or go to dual batteries. Running a block heater form a battery won't work-they don't have the capacity.
...or just a CPO Honda. Or the scoobaru sitting in your backyard
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-15-2013, 02:14 PM #6Dude, he needs to just finance a certified pre owned Honda and be done with it.
Has he adjusted the valves yet?
reamed the glow plug holes?
check the glow plug function?
gotten the injectors balanced?
checked his timing?
replacement fuel filters in the trunk?
how are the alternator brushes?
how old is the battery?
block heater and/or radiator hose heater?
Does the thermostat work right?
does his temp gauge read properly?
has the oil been changed since he bought it?
trans fluid?
diff fluid?
on topic, all of the above with diesel rated synthetics and:
+battery trickle charger
+radiator hose heater
+Grill block
+electric fan that doesn't kick on until you're running hot
+good, heavy jumper cables
+AAA subscription
In the parking lot, a fuel-fired heater (warblo or equiv-around $400) is the only way to get it going. Or go to dual batteries. Running a block heater form a battery won't work-they don't have the capacity.
...or just a CPO Honda. Or the scoobaru sitting in your backyard
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Another tip I have is to park in the sun. At my house I've chosen to switch to a new parking spot that gets morning sun. My traditional spot is nearly 24hr shade. No good for winter dayz
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-15-2013, 08:45 PM #8I say get a pony engine to start it, like an old 50's cable dozer lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Rest of everything else said above, car has to run right and have a good starting/charging/glow system. Can't be a piece of crap mechanically.
Also tell him to get 4 winter tires. Lived in syracuse for years driving a rusty 240.
Hundreds of good snow tires on craigslist upstate, he will not regret it when it snows every 3 days.
Good winter rubber in stock narrow sizes is a necessity with an open diff IMO. Good thing these old benzes are both heavy and predictable in snow driving, but a wide low pro tire kills that advantage
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
5w-40, most useful winter change I've ever made with an old diesel. Couple glow cycles (really cold id do up to 5, best chance to start is the first crank IMO). Let it run for a minute and don't beat on it till up to temp. Usual stuff. I count to 30 after starting in the winter before moving. Really cold I count to 60 or 120
Rest of everything else said above, car has to run right and have a good starting/charging/glow system. Can't be a piece of crap mechanically.
Also tell him to get 4 winter tires. Lived in syracuse for years driving a rusty 240.
Hundreds of good snow tires on craigslist upstate, he will not regret it when it snows every 3 days.
Good winter rubber in stock narrow sizes is a necessity with an open diff IMO. Good thing these old benzes are both heavy and predictable in snow driving, but a wide low pro tire kills that advantage
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I've yet to see a NY w123 with a hood pad though
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-16-2013, 06:49 PM #10The black hood will help, but if he still has the hood pad it won't help as much.
I've yet to see a NY w123 with a hood pad though
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I was only left "stranded" twice and both times were in my work parking garage w/o a plug within 200 feet in negative teens temps. I suspect the lack of direct sunlight in the garage contributed to the gelling.
I just drained the battery trying to get her started & used my roadside membership to get home.
The #1 best upgrade was Blizzak snow tires! They made it difficult to have any fun at all but they also wear super fast once the plows have come through.
Do you think a black car cover would help any?
I entertained a solar array on the roof rack of my wagon but after crunching the numbers it wasn't going to work. The sunlight just wasn't strong enough during the winter (where I was).
I'm definitely going to tell him to run 5w40. Rotella T6?
So maybe the answer is tell my brother to run a small generator in the trunk powering the block heater (add fuel tank heater).
That way I'll inherit his car!
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
I used to live upstate with my '81 300TD as my daily driver.
I was only left "stranded" twice and both times were in my work parking garage w/o a plug within 200 feet in negative teens temps. I suspect the lack of direct sunlight in the garage contributed to the gelling.
I just drained the battery trying to get her started & used my roadside membership to get home.
The #1 best upgrade was Blizzak snow tires! They made it difficult to have any fun at all but they also wear super fast once the plows have come through.
Do you think a black car cover would help any?
I entertained a solar array on the roof rack of my wagon but after crunching the numbers it wasn't going to work. The sunlight just wasn't strong enough during the winter (where I was).
I'm definitely going to tell him to run 5w40. Rotella T6?
So maybe the answer is tell my brother to run a small generator in the trunk powering the block heater (add fuel tank heater).
That way I'll inherit his car!
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
http://www.fattywagons.com/fwproducts.htm
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-18-2013, 03:02 AM #12Check out the injector line heaters on this page, they might help get the fuel warm enough to help get it to fire. I'm pretty certain they wouldn't be able to heat flowing diesel, but if they get it to fire it's all that's needed
http://www.fattywagons.com/fwproducts.htm
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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