just another om617 in a yj
just another om617 in a yj
there are no potential restrictions of fuel flow? (gas pump or check valves?)
You are cranking with the throttle floored?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
you have fuel up to the engine compartment?
there are no potential restrictions of fuel flow? (gas pump or check valves?)
You are cranking with the throttle floored?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-26-2013, 09:25 AM)larsalan Well, I am not a benzpro. But, I have put an IP on the block in the complete wrong time. Did you say this motor has never been fired? I would stay off the ether, you shouldn't need that.
Has the IP ever been off the block? Did that donor car drive to your place of get towed there?
no the IP as never been off the block as far as i know. i got the 300sd complete and running with a slipping tranny. drove it home and drove it around for a couple weeks before pulling the motor. so the last time it ran was in march i think. all new fuel, new fuel filters
(11-26-2013, 10:00 AM)Simpler=Better Don't ether it! The glowplugs can touch off, crack a prechamber, eat your firstborn, etc. etc.
If you have a weird year IP the timing marks are off-I'll see if I can drag up a thread
yeah i know to stay away from it now!
the only change i made to the motor, besides changing seals, was to the timing, id assume i probably did something wrong there. especially since theres smoke coming up out of the valve cover.
(11-26-2013, 10:28 AM)JB3 you have fuel up to the engine compartment?
there are no potential restrictions of fuel flow? (gas pump or check valves?)
You are cranking with the throttle floored?
yep, i hand primed it until the little plastic filter filled up.
no restrictions, i ran new lines into the tank. although im not using any kind of fuel pump or lift pump, i thought the mechanical pump would be enough for it. could that be the issue? i can pick up a universal diesel fuel pump from autozone for $60, but thats $60 i dont want to spend if i dont need to.
yep full throttle
(11-26-2013, 09:25 AM)larsalan Well, I am not a benzpro. But, I have put an IP on the block in the complete wrong time. Did you say this motor has never been fired? I would stay off the ether, you shouldn't need that.
Has the IP ever been off the block? Did that donor car drive to your place of get towed there?
no the IP as never been off the block as far as i know. i got the 300sd complete and running with a slipping tranny. drove it home and drove it around for a couple weeks before pulling the motor. so the last time it ran was in march i think. all new fuel, new fuel filters
(11-26-2013, 10:00 AM)Simpler=Better Don't ether it! The glowplugs can touch off, crack a prechamber, eat your firstborn, etc. etc.
If you have a weird year IP the timing marks are off-I'll see if I can drag up a thread
yeah i know to stay away from it now!
the only change i made to the motor, besides changing seals, was to the timing, id assume i probably did something wrong there. especially since theres smoke coming up out of the valve cover.
(11-26-2013, 10:28 AM)JB3 you have fuel up to the engine compartment?
there are no potential restrictions of fuel flow? (gas pump or check valves?)
You are cranking with the throttle floored?
yep, i hand primed it until the little plastic filter filled up.
no restrictions, i ran new lines into the tank. although im not using any kind of fuel pump or lift pump, i thought the mechanical pump would be enough for it. could that be the issue? i can pick up a universal diesel fuel pump from autozone for $60, but thats $60 i dont want to spend if i dont need to.
yep full throttle
you said it was running and driving immediately prior the swap? lift pump is probably fine.
Id check all lines maybe for a loose connection or anything that would be dumping air into the fuel system, change the fuel filter, ect.
When you cracked the injectors, did you get any fuel? Id also pull the secondary canister filter and fill that sucker to the brim with fuel, ATF, oil, whatever. It will take forever to reprime if that filter is empty
Glow plugs working properly?
EDIT- I see you answered some of these questions already
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
it might take some time to rebleed itself and be a pain in the ass.
you said it was running and driving immediately prior the swap? lift pump is probably fine.
Id check all lines maybe for a loose connection or anything that would be dumping air into the fuel system, change the fuel filter, ect.
When you cracked the injectors, did you get any fuel? Id also pull the secondary canister filter and fill that sucker to the brim with fuel, ATF, oil, whatever. It will take forever to reprime if that filter is empty
Glow plugs working properly?
EDIT- I see you answered some of these questions already
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-26-2013, 12:51 PM)JB3 it might take some time to rebleed itself and be a pain in the ass.
So I should just keep bleeding and cranking then?
you said it was running and driving immediately prior the swap? lift pump is probably fine.
Yes, but i have no lift pump, are you talking about the mechanical fuel pump from the engine? if i understand it correctly a lift pump is at the back of the vehicle by the fuel tank to "lift" the fuel up so the mechanical pump can pull it easier. i could definitely be wrong about that though.
Id check all lines maybe for a loose connection or anything that would be dumping air into the fuel system, change the fuel filter, ect.
Yeah did all that, still no luck
When you cracked the injectors, did you get any fuel? Id also pull the secondary canister filter and fill that sucker to the brim with fuel, ATF, oil, whatever. It will take forever to reprime if that filter is empty
Yes, got fuel, but not a whole lot. I'm not sure how much is supposed to come out of them. Filling the secondary canister is a good idea, ill do that.
Glow plugs working properly?
glow plugs seem to be working, they feel warm.
EDIT- I see you answered some of these questions already
thanks for your quick response! i think its a valve or fuel issue. i dont have any exhaust tubing on the turbo yet, so i can see right in to it and I would assume that if i was getting the appropriate amount of fuel at the right time i would be seeing some smoke from unburned fuel coming out of it. thats what my 616 does when its cold along with the peugeot diesel in my samurai.
another thing is the little clear plastic filter isnt filling all the way with diesel. i can see it fill about half way and then when i push down the primer, it leaks diesel and never fills up.
(11-26-2013, 12:51 PM)JB3 it might take some time to rebleed itself and be a pain in the ass.
So I should just keep bleeding and cranking then?
you said it was running and driving immediately prior the swap? lift pump is probably fine.
Yes, but i have no lift pump, are you talking about the mechanical fuel pump from the engine? if i understand it correctly a lift pump is at the back of the vehicle by the fuel tank to "lift" the fuel up so the mechanical pump can pull it easier. i could definitely be wrong about that though.
Id check all lines maybe for a loose connection or anything that would be dumping air into the fuel system, change the fuel filter, ect.
Yeah did all that, still no luck
When you cracked the injectors, did you get any fuel? Id also pull the secondary canister filter and fill that sucker to the brim with fuel, ATF, oil, whatever. It will take forever to reprime if that filter is empty
Yes, got fuel, but not a whole lot. I'm not sure how much is supposed to come out of them. Filling the secondary canister is a good idea, ill do that.
Glow plugs working properly?
glow plugs seem to be working, they feel warm.
EDIT- I see you answered some of these questions already
thanks for your quick response! i think its a valve or fuel issue. i dont have any exhaust tubing on the turbo yet, so i can see right in to it and I would assume that if i was getting the appropriate amount of fuel at the right time i would be seeing some smoke from unburned fuel coming out of it. thats what my 616 does when its cold along with the peugeot diesel in my samurai.
another thing is the little clear plastic filter isnt filling all the way with diesel. i can see it fill about half way and then when i push down the primer, it leaks diesel and never fills up.
why do you say there is a possible valve problem? Were you putting in a new timing chain or something?
going to make us a video of the cranking?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
so you say the IP has never been off. ok fine
why do you say there is a possible valve problem? Were you putting in a new timing chain or something?
going to make us a video of the cranking?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(11-27-2013, 12:06 AM)larsalan so you say the IP has never been off. ok fine
why do you say there is a possible valve problem? Were you putting in a new timing chain or something?
going to make us a video of the cranking?
it at least hasnt been off since the car was last running. i used the engine lift hooks when i pulled and installed the engine, so i dont think i would have tweaked the IP at any point.
im thinking valve only because i adjusted all the valves after the motor was pulled from the 300sd and before i put it in the jeep. that and i got some smoke coming up out of the valve cover when i used starting fluid.
a video of it cranking is a great idea! ill do that now
(11-27-2013, 12:06 AM)larsalan so you say the IP has never been off. ok fine
why do you say there is a possible valve problem? Were you putting in a new timing chain or something?
going to make us a video of the cranking?
it at least hasnt been off since the car was last running. i used the engine lift hooks when i pulled and installed the engine, so i dont think i would have tweaked the IP at any point.
im thinking valve only because i adjusted all the valves after the motor was pulled from the 300sd and before i put it in the jeep. that and i got some smoke coming up out of the valve cover when i used starting fluid.
a video of it cranking is a great idea! ill do that now
![[Image: th_IMG_1775_zpsb0170fb3.jpg]](http://vid1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/th_IMG_1775_zpsb0170fb3.jpg)
heres a video. first crank is no wd 40. next crank is with wd 40. no difference.
how warm should the glow plugs get? I did 5 glow cycles in a row (2.5 minutes) and they didnt feel very warm. i have voltage at the head of the plugs though
it started and ran for about 3 seconds after about a minute of cranking and lots of WD-40. its about 40 degrees here right now if that makes any difference
heres a video. first crank is no wd 40. next crank is with wd 40. no difference.
how warm should the glow plugs get? I did 5 glow cycles in a row (2.5 minutes) and they didnt feel very warm. i have voltage at the head of the plugs though
it started and ran for about 3 seconds after about a minute of cranking and lots of WD-40. its about 40 degrees here right now if that makes any difference
000-090-88-50-M14
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/Supe....htm#item4
The $17 one is the one you want
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-27-2013, 01:47 PM #62You want the black bodied "Diesel Primer Pump". They're sometimes on junkyard cars and rarely go bad.
000-090-88-50-M14
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/Supe....htm#item4
The $17 one is the one you want
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I had disconnect it from the spin on filter housing and try to pump it, pumps fuel fine.
Then try and close the banjo fitting in between my fingers and pump, could not pump fuel.
So it could pump with 0 resistance but not anything to push through a filter or pop an injector.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I just spent like 3 hrs finding my primer pump was dead.
I had disconnect it from the spin on filter housing and try to pump it, pumps fuel fine.
Then try and close the banjo fitting in between my fingers and pump, could not pump fuel.
So it could pump with 0 resistance but not anything to push through a filter or pop an injector.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(11-27-2013, 01:47 PM)Simpler=Better You want the black bodied "Diesel Primer Pump". They're sometimes on junkyard cars and rarely go bad.
000-090-88-50-M14
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/Supe....htm#item4
The $17 one is the one you want
ordered! its supposed to be here monday.
(11-27-2013, 03:05 PM)larsalan I just spent like 3 hrs finding my primer pump was dead.sounds like mine! did you replace yours?
I had disconnect it from the spin on filter housing and try to pump it, pumps fuel fine.
Then try and close the banjo fitting in between my fingers and pump, could not pump fuel.
So it could pump with 0 resistance but not anything to push through a filter or pop an injector.
(11-27-2013, 01:47 PM)Simpler=Better You want the black bodied "Diesel Primer Pump". They're sometimes on junkyard cars and rarely go bad.
000-090-88-50-M14
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/Supe....htm#item4
The $17 one is the one you want
ordered! its supposed to be here monday.
(11-27-2013, 03:05 PM)larsalan I just spent like 3 hrs finding my primer pump was dead.sounds like mine! did you replace yours?
I had disconnect it from the spin on filter housing and try to pump it, pumps fuel fine.
Then try and close the banjo fitting in between my fingers and pump, could not pump fuel.
So it could pump with 0 resistance but not anything to push through a filter or pop an injector.
I'm unclear on what all internal rubber parts had failed in mine. I'm sure it's from all the WVO.
Look at that link again....
The $17 part may not save you if the pump is having problems. It may be some rubber seals inside the full on 'fuel pump' for $170, or call it a lift pump.
To me this sounds like it could be a culprit of the no start and start for 3 seconds. I had been offering up a $35 reward for a used version of that $170 part and seemed to have a few members willing to try and get one.
PM me and I can forward you the names if you'd like.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I had a spare pump that is the white one and it did the trick for me.
I'm unclear on what all internal rubber parts had failed in mine. I'm sure it's from all the WVO.
Look at that link again....
The $17 part may not save you if the pump is having problems. It may be some rubber seals inside the full on 'fuel pump' for $170, or call it a lift pump.
To me this sounds like it could be a culprit of the no start and start for 3 seconds. I had been offering up a $35 reward for a used version of that $170 part and seemed to have a few members willing to try and get one.
PM me and I can forward you the names if you'd like.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-27-2013, 07:05 PM #66So you checked that the glowplugs are getting power? And you're getting fuel to the injectors?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(11-27-2013, 05:31 PM)larsalan I had a spare pump that is the white one and it did the trick for me.
I'm unclear on what all internal rubber parts had failed in mine. I'm sure it's from all the WVO.
Look at that link again....
The $17 part may not save you if the pump is having problems. It may be some rubber seals inside the full on 'fuel pump' for $170, or call it a lift pump.
To me this sounds like it could be a culprit of the no start and start for 3 seconds. I had been offering up a $35 reward for a used version of that $170 part and seemed to have a few members willing to try and get one.
PM me and I can forward you the names if you'd like.
Hopefully this fixes it. I guess well see. Otherwise couldn't I just run an external electric lift pump?
The reason it started and ran for a few seconds was because it was running off of wd40, not diesel
(11-27-2013, 07:05 PM)sassparilla_kid So you checked that the glowplugs are getting power? And you're getting fuel to the injectors?Yeah glow plugs have power. Verified with a test light. I get fuel leaking from injectors when I crack the lines and crank.
(11-27-2013, 05:31 PM)larsalan I had a spare pump that is the white one and it did the trick for me.
I'm unclear on what all internal rubber parts had failed in mine. I'm sure it's from all the WVO.
Look at that link again....
The $17 part may not save you if the pump is having problems. It may be some rubber seals inside the full on 'fuel pump' for $170, or call it a lift pump.
To me this sounds like it could be a culprit of the no start and start for 3 seconds. I had been offering up a $35 reward for a used version of that $170 part and seemed to have a few members willing to try and get one.
PM me and I can forward you the names if you'd like.
Hopefully this fixes it. I guess well see. Otherwise couldn't I just run an external electric lift pump?
The reason it started and ran for a few seconds was because it was running off of wd40, not diesel
(11-27-2013, 07:05 PM)sassparilla_kid So you checked that the glowplugs are getting power? And you're getting fuel to the injectors?Yeah glow plugs have power. Verified with a test light. I get fuel leaking from injectors when I crack the lines and crank.
Checklist:
-valve lash set properly
-cam timing mark matches crank timing mark (can be seen through oil cap hole)
-injectors getting fuel
-injection pump doing 1 drip/sec when the timing marks are all lined up.
-check that glow plugs are actually glowing-you can get power at the head but still have the element shorted out. If you pull them test them with jumper cables
-make sure you're getting enough juice to spin the engine over. I had to bolt a 2ga cable to the starter, jumper cables didn't give enough power.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-28-2013, 06:47 PM #68What's your cranking speed? If you don't hit 500rpm it won't start. After doing my head it took a little while to get everything squared away and running.
Checklist:
-valve lash set properly
-cam timing mark matches crank timing mark (can be seen through oil cap hole)
-injectors getting fuel
-injection pump doing 1 drip/sec when the timing marks are all lined up.
-check that glow plugs are actually glowing-you can get power at the head but still have the element shorted out. If you pull them test them with jumper cables
-make sure you're getting enough juice to spin the engine over. I had to bolt a 2ga cable to the starter, jumper cables didn't give enough power.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(11-29-2013, 06:16 AM)Tito Cranking speed at 500rpm is a lot. Are you sure? Normal diesel cars only rev 200~250rm at cranking speed.
If you have any of your gauges in your truck working you will see a significant draw if your glow plugs are actually working thru the relay. If not hook one up and see or wire them directly just for the start.
I would agree with the last post that your cranking speed is very low. It is fine for the first 2-3 seconds but after that I doubt you are doing yourself any favor. I plan on using one of the higher output reduction Toyota starters on mine. They made a huge difference on my 2F.
I think you will get lucky Monday. I've had two cars that I have purchased that people said would no longer start. Both issues were air leaking thru that old crappy style primer pump. The newer updated Bosch pump is the way to go. Good luck and don't give up. In order to get my very first mercedes started after a head rebuild we had to tow it with my F-250 and drop it into gear
. You will get there. Just to bad it is going into a Heep a Land Cruiser would have been much better haha Maybe I'll see you out there on the trails some day.
addicted56
11-29-2013, 08:23 PM #70(11-29-2013, 06:16 AM)Tito Cranking speed at 500rpm is a lot. Are you sure? Normal diesel cars only rev 200~250rm at cranking speed.
If you have any of your gauges in your truck working you will see a significant draw if your glow plugs are actually working thru the relay. If not hook one up and see or wire them directly just for the start.
I would agree with the last post that your cranking speed is very low. It is fine for the first 2-3 seconds but after that I doubt you are doing yourself any favor. I plan on using one of the higher output reduction Toyota starters on mine. They made a huge difference on my 2F.
I think you will get lucky Monday. I've had two cars that I have purchased that people said would no longer start. Both issues were air leaking thru that old crappy style primer pump. The newer updated Bosch pump is the way to go. Good luck and don't give up. In order to get my very first mercedes started after a head rebuild we had to tow it with my F-250 and drop it into gear
. You will get there. Just to bad it is going into a Heep a Land Cruiser would have been much better haha Maybe I'll see you out there on the trails some day.
(11-28-2013, 06:47 PM)Simpler=Better What's your cranking speed? If you don't hit 500rpm it won't start. After doing my head it took a little while to get everything squared away and running.
Checklist:
-valve lash set properly
-cam timing mark matches crank timing mark (can be seen through oil cap hole)
-injectors getting fuel
-injection pump doing 1 drip/sec when the timing marks are all lined up.
-check that glow plugs are actually glowing-you can get power at the head but still have the element shorted out. If you pull them test them with jumper cables
-make sure you're getting enough juice to spin the engine over. I had to bolt a 2ga cable to the starter, jumper cables didn't give enough power.
Not sure on cranking speed, I don't have a tach yet, but I am using a fully charged battery. I put it on the trickle charger when I'm done.
I just did the valves but no guarantee I did them right. I know what I'm doing but it wouldn't be the first time I screwed something simple up.
I'll check cam and IP timing but id be very surprised if they changed themselves on the floor of my garage lol
I haven't drip timed the IP yet, but I probably should anyways.
I've pulled te glow plugs and tested them with jumper cables, they glow good and hot right away.
I have 2ga battery cable that goes to the starter. It will crank no problem. I don't think it's a power problem.
Thanks guys! I'm sure it'll get figured out here soon!
(11-28-2013, 06:47 PM)Simpler=Better What's your cranking speed? If you don't hit 500rpm it won't start. After doing my head it took a little while to get everything squared away and running.
Checklist:
-valve lash set properly
-cam timing mark matches crank timing mark (can be seen through oil cap hole)
-injectors getting fuel
-injection pump doing 1 drip/sec when the timing marks are all lined up.
-check that glow plugs are actually glowing-you can get power at the head but still have the element shorted out. If you pull them test them with jumper cables
-make sure you're getting enough juice to spin the engine over. I had to bolt a 2ga cable to the starter, jumper cables didn't give enough power.
Not sure on cranking speed, I don't have a tach yet, but I am using a fully charged battery. I put it on the trickle charger when I'm done.
I just did the valves but no guarantee I did them right. I know what I'm doing but it wouldn't be the first time I screwed something simple up.
I'll check cam and IP timing but id be very surprised if they changed themselves on the floor of my garage lol
I haven't drip timed the IP yet, but I probably should anyways.
I've pulled te glow plugs and tested them with jumper cables, they glow good and hot right away.
I have 2ga battery cable that goes to the starter. It will crank no problem. I don't think it's a power problem.
Thanks guys! I'm sure it'll get figured out here soon!
Put the new primer pump on. Tried to prime and got air bubbles. Changed out a fuel line and it's all better but still no start. It's getting closer though, I can feel it trying to start. It cranks really high and puts out a little smoke, but just won't quite catch. On other problem I'm having now is with the starter and adapter plate. I bought a used home made adapter plate that I'm realizing was probably a mistake, unfortunately. There are no bell housing to to adapter mounts by the starter so the starter (jeep, not Benz) is skipping on the flywheel because it's able to flex the bell housing. I can hear it skip, it souds like there's rocks in the tranny. So I think that's defintely a problem and could be why I can't start. It feels like t starts jumping terry right when it's going to catch. I guess I need to pony up the $350 for the plate now too. Even if these two issues aren't related, I'm gonna ruin the starter gear and possibly my flywheel and even possibly worse damage if it breaks the bell housing. Man. So close.
(11-30-2013, 01:50 AM)jenyus Put the new primer pump on. Tried to prime and got air bubbles. Changed out a fuel line and it's all better but still no start. It's getting closer though, I can feel it trying to start. It cranks really high and puts out a little smoke, but just won't quite catch. On other problem I'm having now is with the starter and adapter plate. I bought a used home made adapter plate that I'm realizing was probably a mistake, unfortunately. There are no bell housing to to adapter mounts by the starter so the starter (jeep, not Benz) is skipping on the flywheel because it's able to flex the bell housing. I can hear it skip, it souds like there's rocks in the tranny. So I think that's defintely a problem and could be why I can't start. It feels like t starts jumping terry right when it's going to catch. I guess I need to pony up the $350 for the plate now too. Even if these two issues aren't related, I'm gonna ruin the starter gear and possibly my flywheel and even possibly worse damage if it breaks the bell housing. Man. So close.
I'm pretty sure you're running the adapter I sold you (that I grabbed from some guy on craigslist)
PM me if you end up having to scrap it...I don't want to be known as the asshole breaking projects
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-30-2013, 11:55 AM #73(11-30-2013, 01:50 AM)jenyus Put the new primer pump on. Tried to prime and got air bubbles. Changed out a fuel line and it's all better but still no start. It's getting closer though, I can feel it trying to start. It cranks really high and puts out a little smoke, but just won't quite catch. On other problem I'm having now is with the starter and adapter plate. I bought a used home made adapter plate that I'm realizing was probably a mistake, unfortunately. There are no bell housing to to adapter mounts by the starter so the starter (jeep, not Benz) is skipping on the flywheel because it's able to flex the bell housing. I can hear it skip, it souds like there's rocks in the tranny. So I think that's defintely a problem and could be why I can't start. It feels like t starts jumping terry right when it's going to catch. I guess I need to pony up the $350 for the plate now too. Even if these two issues aren't related, I'm gonna ruin the starter gear and possibly my flywheel and even possibly worse damage if it breaks the bell housing. Man. So close.
I'm pretty sure you're running the adapter I sold you (that I grabbed from some guy on craigslist)
PM me if you end up having to scrap it...I don't want to be known as the asshole breaking projects
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
i got a mr gasket 12v diesel lift pump today at autozone. we'll see if it works!
[IMG]http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/379/37909_2000x2000.jpg[\IMG]
yeah its the one i got from you. no worries, i knew what i was buying and you were completely honest in describing it. i dont feel like i got ripped off or anything at all by you. i think i can figure out a way to reinforce it. its a bummer that its aluminum since im not set up to weld aluminum.
i got a mr gasket 12v diesel lift pump today at autozone. we'll see if it works!
[IMG]http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/379/37909_2000x2000.jpg[\IMG]
Well project is on hold while I wait I order a new adapter plate from mercedesdiesel4x4.com and a new starter. The bummer is that had I not had to spend this extra $450, I would have broken even on the swap! I was able to sell the engine for $550, traded the tranny and tcase for the yota 4.7:1 case and parted out that 4runner I stole the tranny from. I was right about dead even, including buying the Mercedes. Oh well. $450 for this whole conversion still isn't too bad I'd say. Just terrible timing with Christmas right now. Hopefully I can finish it before I go to boot camp in February!
(12-10-2013, 12:20 AM)jenyus Well project is on hold while I wait I order a new adapter plate from mercedesdiesel4x4.com and a new starter. The bummer is that had I not had to spend this extra $450, I would have broken even on the swap! I was able to sell the engine for $550, traded the tranny and tcase for the yota 4.7:1 case and parted out that 4runner I stole the tranny from. I was right about dead even, including buying the Mercedes. Oh well. $450 for this whole conversion still isn't too bad I'd say. Just terrible timing with Christmas right now. Hopefully I can finish it before I go to boot camp in February!
damn!
well, at least you know what the problem is and the the total cost is pretty marginal for the amount of work you've done to build this vehicle.
What was the turn around time for the adapter plate? When can you expect it compared to when you have to leave?
dont feel bad about it, I was missing a 3mm spacer it never occured to me I needed for my adapter kit, so the first 5 or 6 start attempts, my flywheel bolts carved a nice groove in the block and lower oil pan for me, and some other bolts carved some grooves in the back of my flywheel. The whole time I was wondering why I was getting such a slow start. The transmission came down 3 different times to fix that, and I just took it apart a 4th time to hopefully finally fix the problem. Shit happens
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-10-2013, 12:20 AM)jenyus Well project is on hold while I wait I order a new adapter plate from mercedesdiesel4x4.com and a new starter. The bummer is that had I not had to spend this extra $450, I would have broken even on the swap! I was able to sell the engine for $550, traded the tranny and tcase for the yota 4.7:1 case and parted out that 4runner I stole the tranny from. I was right about dead even, including buying the Mercedes. Oh well. $450 for this whole conversion still isn't too bad I'd say. Just terrible timing with Christmas right now. Hopefully I can finish it before I go to boot camp in February!
damn!
well, at least you know what the problem is and the the total cost is pretty marginal for the amount of work you've done to build this vehicle.
What was the turn around time for the adapter plate? When can you expect it compared to when you have to leave?
dont feel bad about it, I was missing a 3mm spacer it never occured to me I needed for my adapter kit, so the first 5 or 6 start attempts, my flywheel bolts carved a nice groove in the block and lower oil pan for me, and some other bolts carved some grooves in the back of my flywheel. The whole time I was wondering why I was getting such a slow start. The transmission came down 3 different times to fix that, and I just took it apart a 4th time to hopefully finally fix the problem. Shit happens
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-10-2013, 11:41 AM)JB3 damn!
well, at least you know what the problem is and the the total cost is pretty marginal for the amount of work you've done to build this vehicle.
What was the turn around time for the adapter plate? When can you expect it compared to when you have to leave?
dont feel bad about it, I was missing a 3mm spacer it never occured to me I needed for my adapter kit, so the first 5 or 6 start attempts, my flywheel bolts carved a nice groove in the block and lower oil pan for me, and some other bolts carved some grooves in the back of my flywheel. The whole time I was wondering why I was getting such a slow start. The transmission came down 3 different times to fix that, and I just took it apart a 4th time to hopefully finally fix the problem. Shit happens
yeah it could be worse i guess! i dont know what their turn around time is, i sure hope its fast! i dont want to spend my last few weeks at home in the garage instead of with my wife and 2 year old boy. but once i leave for BASIC, it will be about 9 months before i get to come home again, and then it will just be to pack up and leave. i dont really want to drag around a non running vehicle, but i definitely dont want to sell it as it is now.
bummer man! at least you were able to finally figure it out. theres nothing more frustrating than having to pull a transmission multiple times!
(12-10-2013, 11:41 AM)JB3 damn!
well, at least you know what the problem is and the the total cost is pretty marginal for the amount of work you've done to build this vehicle.
What was the turn around time for the adapter plate? When can you expect it compared to when you have to leave?
dont feel bad about it, I was missing a 3mm spacer it never occured to me I needed for my adapter kit, so the first 5 or 6 start attempts, my flywheel bolts carved a nice groove in the block and lower oil pan for me, and some other bolts carved some grooves in the back of my flywheel. The whole time I was wondering why I was getting such a slow start. The transmission came down 3 different times to fix that, and I just took it apart a 4th time to hopefully finally fix the problem. Shit happens
yeah it could be worse i guess! i dont know what their turn around time is, i sure hope its fast! i dont want to spend my last few weeks at home in the garage instead of with my wife and 2 year old boy. but once i leave for BASIC, it will be about 9 months before i get to come home again, and then it will just be to pack up and leave. i dont really want to drag around a non running vehicle, but i definitely dont want to sell it as it is now.
bummer man! at least you were able to finally figure it out. theres nothing more frustrating than having to pull a transmission multiple times!
![[Image: th_31FD63DA-55E7-4878-923A-84C7DE1C6575_zps76af9n7g.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/th_31FD63DA-55E7-4878-923A-84C7DE1C6575_zps76af9n7g.jpg)
because of the way the gas pedal was hooked to the injection pump, there was very little resistance, which felt really weird and it was hard to do anything but full throttle.
so i found this in my box of benz stuff, bent a loop in it and put it on the other side of the injection pump throttle rocker thingy
![[Image: 2667B9BC-3349-41E8-B450-ED191D7D57C2_zpsbj44dio1.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/2667B9BC-3349-41E8-B450-ED191D7D57C2_zpsbj44dio1.jpg.html)
then used a spring from that up to the mount for the throttle cable. picture came out blurry, unfortunately. zip ties are temporary
![[Image: 1B48EF05-0548-47EF-8514-AB8CFF5F1032_zpsmcq934je.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/1B48EF05-0548-47EF-8514-AB8CFF5F1032_zpsmcq934je.jpg.html)
has a good, consistent feel to it now.
rear driveline in. used a 92 4runner front CV driveline that i shortened about 1.5". on the 14 bolt i used a 10 bolt 1310 yoke (theyre interchangable) and used a rockford 1310/toyota conversion joint. cost $25, but you have to call, its not on their website right now. you can see how greasy it is down there from the old tcase leaking for years
![[Image: 368F9CCE-50A7-40E5-9C2C-9D838A693E26_zpss3kfm2rz.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/368F9CCE-50A7-40E5-9C2C-9D838A693E26_zpss3kfm2rz.jpg.html)
cut out the floor board to accommodate the transmissio shifter being further back and to make room for the twin sticks.
![[Image: 25394A43-B1D8-4E39-8EBD-3518F80E66B0_zpseni8zh1s.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/25394A43-B1D8-4E39-8EBD-3518F80E66B0_zpseni8zh1s.jpg.html)
cut and bent the shifter
![[Image: 40E96D61-CBC6-4021-B496-14C23B16AFA5_zpsumzl56oz.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/40E96D61-CBC6-4021-B496-14C23B16AFA5_zpsumzl56oz.jpg.html)
been fighting the stupid plastic quick disconnect crap on the master cylinder > slave hose. im going to have to order the advance adapters kit. unfortunately that means i wont be driving it this weekend.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/...-bearings/
heres what i have left to do:
-build front driveline
-drill out front output flange
-clean up wiring
-build exhaust (just straight out of the turbo right now)
-Build cover for transmission tunnel
-fill up transmission, transfercase and front axle with fluid
other than that, everything is done, so ready to drive this thing!
finally got the new adapter plate, flywheel and starter and got it started!
because of the way the gas pedal was hooked to the injection pump, there was very little resistance, which felt really weird and it was hard to do anything but full throttle.
so i found this in my box of benz stuff, bent a loop in it and put it on the other side of the injection pump throttle rocker thingy
then used a spring from that up to the mount for the throttle cable. picture came out blurry, unfortunately. zip ties are temporary
has a good, consistent feel to it now.
rear driveline in. used a 92 4runner front CV driveline that i shortened about 1.5". on the 14 bolt i used a 10 bolt 1310 yoke (theyre interchangable) and used a rockford 1310/toyota conversion joint. cost $25, but you have to call, its not on their website right now. you can see how greasy it is down there from the old tcase leaking for years
cut out the floor board to accommodate the transmissio shifter being further back and to make room for the twin sticks.
cut and bent the shifter
been fighting the stupid plastic quick disconnect crap on the master cylinder > slave hose. im going to have to order the advance adapters kit. unfortunately that means i wont be driving it this weekend.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/...-bearings/
heres what i have left to do:
-build front driveline
-drill out front output flange
-clean up wiring
-build exhaust (just straight out of the turbo right now)
-Build cover for transmission tunnel
-fill up transmission, transfercase and front axle with fluid
other than that, everything is done, so ready to drive this thing!
cleaned up some wiring, filled up the fluids. No leaks yet!
used a master cylinder from an earlier model YJ which didnt have the plastic crap. mounting points were a little off but i was able to make it work.
![[Image: 8FCAF5E4-9BEA-4757-99AC-F24F53FDA6B7_zpsvu8i4ewz.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/8FCAF5E4-9BEA-4757-99AC-F24F53FDA6B7_zpsvu8i4ewz.jpg.html)
i cut the end off of it cuz it was screwed up and used a 1/4" compression union, hopefully it holds to the pressure, im pretty sure it will. no leaks at least.
![[Image: CF87778F-9468-4413-B101-CCD422A79FFE_zpsqdyzcwr7.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/CF87778F-9468-4413-B101-CCD422A79FFE_zpsqdyzcwr7.jpg.html)
everything was going great and then, suddenly, tragedy struck. got everything done and took it out for a test drive, didnt even make it out of the driveway when i heard a loud pop and grinding noise
![[Image: 145D3EEF-4C59-4CED-A8F1-3BC66B42E1D0_zpsfrwswq0v.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/145D3EEF-4C59-4CED-A8F1-3BC66B42E1D0_zpsfrwswq0v.jpg.html)
![[Image: 14EE675E-2224-4254-9ADE-FB27584C3977_zps0z5zcj2r.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/14EE675E-2224-4254-9ADE-FB27584C3977_zps0z5zcj2r.jpg.html)
![[Image: 543DBAFF-0197-4A5F-8937-51D727E39156_zps0wtiztgg.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/543DBAFF-0197-4A5F-8937-51D727E39156_zps0wtiztgg.jpg.html)
the pinion bearing for the 9.5 14 bolt in the rear grenaded somehow between the garage and my driveway. im guessing the pinion bearings dried up from sitting for so long? anyways it trashed the ring, pinion, bearings and gov lock. if i fixed it, it would be the 3rd set of gears ill have replaced in this since i got it in the jeep 2 years ago. had the pinion bearing explode while i was driving it last year.
i dont want another gm 14 bolt but im not ready for 8 lug. going to 8 lug means sourcing 8 lug outers for the front and getting new wheels and building a 60 for the rear. ive got a rear 60 in the garage, but i just dont want to go through the hassle of going 8 lug until i can do a 60 in the front. Im picking up a 44 tonight and bought some 5.38's for it last night. Ill just go with a 44 for now. the old 44 held up for about 6 years before it gave us problems so im hoping to get away with it for now. I looked for a semi float 6 lug 60 but theyre really hard to find.
the new rear end is definitely a drag. another $350 in axle and gears plus the time for set up and install. but its so close to being done that im not too worried about it.
i need to pull the rear driveline and do some high angle mods to it, its almost bound up when the jeep is at rest.
made some more progress, drilled out flanges, got the exhaust halfway built, at least its not straight out of the turbo now.
cleaned up some wiring, filled up the fluids. No leaks yet!
used a master cylinder from an earlier model YJ which didnt have the plastic crap. mounting points were a little off but i was able to make it work.
i cut the end off of it cuz it was screwed up and used a 1/4" compression union, hopefully it holds to the pressure, im pretty sure it will. no leaks at least.
everything was going great and then, suddenly, tragedy struck. got everything done and took it out for a test drive, didnt even make it out of the driveway when i heard a loud pop and grinding noise
the pinion bearing for the 9.5 14 bolt in the rear grenaded somehow between the garage and my driveway. im guessing the pinion bearings dried up from sitting for so long? anyways it trashed the ring, pinion, bearings and gov lock. if i fixed it, it would be the 3rd set of gears ill have replaced in this since i got it in the jeep 2 years ago. had the pinion bearing explode while i was driving it last year.
i dont want another gm 14 bolt but im not ready for 8 lug. going to 8 lug means sourcing 8 lug outers for the front and getting new wheels and building a 60 for the rear. ive got a rear 60 in the garage, but i just dont want to go through the hassle of going 8 lug until i can do a 60 in the front. Im picking up a 44 tonight and bought some 5.38's for it last night. Ill just go with a 44 for now. the old 44 held up for about 6 years before it gave us problems so im hoping to get away with it for now. I looked for a semi float 6 lug 60 but theyre really hard to find.
the new rear end is definitely a drag. another $350 in axle and gears plus the time for set up and install. but its so close to being done that im not too worried about it.
i need to pull the rear driveline and do some high angle mods to it, its almost bound up when the jeep is at rest.
No more messing around with the rear axle! Went shopping on Craigslist.
Full float 10.5" 14 bolt
![[Image: F1E0DF6D-2F09-45FF-8157-E7D96BFDE734_zpspr1rtwqu.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/F1E0DF6D-2F09-45FF-8157-E7D96BFDE734_zpspr1rtwqu.jpg.html)
New wheels
![[Image: 66E7CA55-B82E-4BFF-A178-9347CD15D436_zpsmskix0yg.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/66E7CA55-B82E-4BFF-A178-9347CD15D436_zpsmskix0yg.jpg.html)
Ordered 5.38s and I'm going to weld up the gov lock into the "orb of traction"
Found a buddy with 8 lug outers for the front 44. Just not ready to dump the money into a built front 60.
Ordered a Toyota CV with a 1350 slip yoke.
Now just waiting for brown Santa to bring all the toys!
master install kit for the 14 bolt
![[Image: B3D7B4B6-BD90-4E34-862F-D804CE46E83C_zpsovos6cmz.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/B3D7B4B6-BD90-4E34-862F-D804CE46E83C_zpsovos6cmz.jpg.html)
picked these up for $250.
built by high angle drivelines.
1/4" wall tubing with extra long ag slip yokes. toyota CV top 1350 joint at the bottom
stock yota cv vs new
![[Image: A2A7D887-B435-4BFA-ACD8-D8E2DF37D362_zps4ythnztn.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/A2A7D887-B435-4BFA-ACD8-D8E2DF37D362_zps4ythnztn.jpg.html)
these spring perches were a hassle to get off
![[Image: 447D4831-8844-42AE-B583-40272D6841CE_zpsw9xl8cbc.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/447D4831-8844-42AE-B583-40272D6841CE_zpsw9xl8cbc.jpg.html)
disc brake conversion
![[Image: A47D5116-CC99-4634-A186-634ECCC39C4D_zps7bdty9hj.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/A47D5116-CC99-4634-A186-634ECCC39C4D_zps7bdty9hj.jpg.html)
hoping to have it on the road in the next couple weeks.
master install kit for the 14 bolt
picked these up for $250.
built by high angle drivelines.
1/4" wall tubing with extra long ag slip yokes. toyota CV top 1350 joint at the bottom
stock yota cv vs new
these spring perches were a hassle to get off
disc brake conversion
hoping to have it on the road in the next couple weeks.
master install kit for the 14 bolt
picked these up for $250.
built by high angle drivelines.
1/4" wall tubing with extra long ag slip yokes. toyota CV top 1350 joint at the bottom
stock yota cv vs new
these spring perches were a hassle to get off
disc brake conversion
hoping to have it on the road in the next couple weeks.
been pretty busy at work lately, but made some progress on the 14 bolt
first time setting up gears so i was a little nervous, but i think it came out okay.
![[Image: 05AAB4E9-E985-4B6E-A1F8-78A995404DC5_zpsny52hvym.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/05AAB4E9-E985-4B6E-A1F8-78A995404DC5_zpsny52hvym.jpg.html)
![[Image: BA3B7C99-BE89-4A16-A271-C45D9D21FA30_zpsppcxx2zo.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/BA3B7C99-BE89-4A16-A271-C45D9D21FA30_zpsppcxx2zo.jpg.html)
![[Image: 6524A48E-C7CC-4912-B023-4C4DB0772C09_zps1ty1asjo.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/6524A48E-C7CC-4912-B023-4C4DB0772C09_zps1ty1asjo.jpg.html)
assembled
new wheels, last ones were the wrong size. stupid.
http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus...m.jpg.html
poor mans diff armor
![[Image: 49179EB5-CE21-4776-BD6D-766112087939_zps5k8ntlmh.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/49179EB5-CE21-4776-BD6D-766112087939_zps5k8ntlmh.jpg.html)
![[Image: 69782A59-7141-4A58-B3A1-AFBE0D045879_zpsrnxxy2y9.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/69782A59-7141-4A58-B3A1-AFBE0D045879_zpsrnxxy2y9.jpg.html)
![[Image: FCF5DC5B-1F07-42B0-9DB1-6F79DC3DF3C8_zpslltfyyoq.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/FCF5DC5B-1F07-42B0-9DB1-6F79DC3DF3C8_zpslltfyyoq.jpg.html)
also scored a dana 60 for the front today. traded my 44, cant argue with that deal
from a 79 dodge tow truck with factory Dana 70 inner C's. came with all the parts and new kingpin bearings. has 4.88s now so i need to trade those out for some 5.38s. going to spool the front for now, dont wanna shell out the cash for a selectable locker right now.
![[Image: AD417F9B-C81C-4B43-B06C-999589D73109_zps4t5dlpot.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/AD417F9B-C81C-4B43-B06C-999589D73109_zps4t5dlpot.jpg.html)
those C's are massive!
![[Image: 7188E5B4-657F-4B3D-A533-B5C0461DF8E7_zpsenc3gobw.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/7188E5B4-657F-4B3D-A533-B5C0461DF8E7_zpsenc3gobw.jpg.html)
![[Image: C9ABE019-931B-483B-8A6B-1655EE6C8DD8_zps85o7lkrt.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/C9ABE019-931B-483B-8A6B-1655EE6C8DD8_zps85o7lkrt.jpg.html)
im pretty stoked to say the least. now gotta order high steer, 5.38's and a yota pinion flange.
finished the transmission tunnel cover and shifter boots. reused sammy shifter boots!
![[Image: 10653617_320075901505657_507325018673046...df9040b1f7]](https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10653617_320075901505657_5073250186730465623_n.jpg?oh=3e2be4b9eea66e271a3d6af807874fcc&oe=54CD5CFE&__gda__=1422079814_0b7b4fe164dd7b547e116cdf9040b1f7)
![[Image: E80D6F78-D01D-4CD4-B12C-69B6D6E43F99_zpsqbdpwzax.jpg]](http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y354/jenyus425/yj%20om617%20conversion/E80D6F78-D01D-4CD4-B12C-69B6D6E43F99_zpsqbdpwzax.jpg)
![[Image: 1ACAFA27-ACB4-489B-9EE4-003B5EB1B13B_zpshh5w4ojo.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/1ACAFA27-ACB4-489B-9EE4-003B5EB1B13B_zpshh5w4ojo.jpg.html)
![[Image: E24FD475-CB3F-4408-A2A9-662065E3158D_zps5hzmwj3v.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/E24FD475-CB3F-4408-A2A9-662065E3158D_zps5hzmwj3v.jpg.html)
![[Image: A38A9052-5F0C-4C5F-B7B8-02119E1BDE58_zpslot4pdeh.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/A38A9052-5F0C-4C5F-B7B8-02119E1BDE58_zpslot4pdeh.jpg.html)
installed!
![[Image: 3521BD82-713A-4A38-A034-CD0CA32ABB1F_zpss6a3oqpr.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/3521BD82-713A-4A38-A034-CD0CA32ABB1F_zpss6a3oqpr.jpg.html)
![[Image: EDEE329F-7925-4006-BD0F-91DD9872FB80_zpsrxmh3m8x.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/EDEE329F-7925-4006-BD0F-91DD9872FB80_zpsrxmh3m8x.jpg.html)
![[Image: B40EA6D0-595B-40A6-8F14-39FDB719635C_zpsk2cgeufl.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/B40EA6D0-595B-40A6-8F14-39FDB719635C_zpsk2cgeufl.jpg.html)
still need to paint the sticks
got the diff cover on.
i'm retarded.
![[Image: 01FE8F9C-8E94-41A2-A6BB-0807DF14E894_zps9v43kbd9.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/yj%20om617%20conversion/01FE8F9C-8E94-41A2-A6BB-0807DF14E894_zps9v43kbd9.jpg.html)
still working on it!
No more messing around with the rear axle! Went shopping on Craigslist.
Full float 10.5" 14 bolt
New wheels
Ordered 5.38s and I'm going to weld up the gov lock into the "orb of traction"
Found a buddy with 8 lug outers for the front 44. Just not ready to dump the money into a built front 60.
Ordered a Toyota CV with a 1350 slip yoke.
Now just waiting for brown Santa to bring all the toys!
master install kit for the 14 bolt
picked these up for $250.
built by high angle drivelines.
1/4" wall tubing with extra long ag slip yokes. toyota CV top 1350 joint at the bottom
stock yota cv vs new
these spring perches were a hassle to get off
disc brake conversion
hoping to have it on the road in the next couple weeks.
master install kit for the 14 bolt
picked these up for $250.
built by high angle drivelines.
1/4" wall tubing with extra long ag slip yokes. toyota CV top 1350 joint at the bottom
stock yota cv vs new
these spring perches were a hassle to get off
disc brake conversion
hoping to have it on the road in the next couple weeks.
master install kit for the 14 bolt
picked these up for $250.
built by high angle drivelines.
1/4" wall tubing with extra long ag slip yokes. toyota CV top 1350 joint at the bottom
stock yota cv vs new
these spring perches were a hassle to get off
disc brake conversion
hoping to have it on the road in the next couple weeks.
been pretty busy at work lately, but made some progress on the 14 bolt
first time setting up gears so i was a little nervous, but i think it came out okay.
assembled
new wheels, last ones were the wrong size. stupid.
http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus...m.jpg.html
poor mans diff armor
also scored a dana 60 for the front today. traded my 44, cant argue with that deal
from a 79 dodge tow truck with factory Dana 70 inner C's. came with all the parts and new kingpin bearings. has 4.88s now so i need to trade those out for some 5.38s. going to spool the front for now, dont wanna shell out the cash for a selectable locker right now.
those C's are massive!
im pretty stoked to say the least. now gotta order high steer, 5.38's and a yota pinion flange.
finished the transmission tunnel cover and shifter boots. reused sammy shifter boots!
installed!
still need to paint the sticks
got the diff cover on.
i'm retarded.
since im running ford hub bodies and GM spindles i had to get a spacer made. the reason i used ford hubs is that i didnt have any GM SRW hub bodies and theyre really expesnive. $500-$700 for a set of new ones and $300-$400 for a set of used ones. the ford hubs can be found on kingpin 60s and also the TTB 50s, so hubs are readily available and cheap. I go these for free
I bought a chunk of 3" OD DOM tubing with 3/8" wall (freaking expensive) and had it turned down to 2.75" on my buddies lathe. spacer was 5/8" thick
![[Image: IMG_3913_zps9td9qchk.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3913_zps9td9qchk.jpg.html)
good, tight interference fit. doesnt have to be attached very strongly since its just for the seal to ride on.
![[Image: IMG_3914_zpsiyaj3yk9.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3914_zpsiyaj3yk9.jpg.html)
remember to bevel the inside edge of the bottom to account for the extra material at the base of the spindle
![[Image: IMG_3968_zps52huji5q.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3968_zps52huji5q.jpg.html)
nice fit
![[Image: IMG_3971_zpsx8clnwgo.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3971_zpsx8clnwgo.jpg.html)
trail gear UHMW solid spindle bushings
![[Image: IMG_3988_zpshe5sczmi.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3988_zpshe5sczmi.jpg.html)
hub bodies and brakes. k20 rotors 88 F250 lug studs
![[Image: IMG_3987_zpsc9a1f50b.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3987_zpsc9a1f50b.jpg.html)
hubs cleaned up and knobs painted pink and clearcoated
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knuckles put together with high steer and
![[Image: IMG_3994_zpsop0w6vuu.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3994_zpsop0w6vuu.jpg.html)
spindles installed. i am using a 3/4 ton disc brake conversion kit from great lakes offroad. i needed a set without the offset that most have. it also included these little spacers that worked perfectly for me. spaced out 1/4" under the bracket
![[Image: IMG_4115_zpsratwmqnk.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4115_zpsratwmqnk.jpg.html)
brackets installed
![[Image: IMG_4116_zpsg8rwdayb.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4116_zpsg8rwdayb.jpg.html)
Been a while since I did an update, but ive got a lot done!
since im running ford hub bodies and GM spindles i had to get a spacer made. the reason i used ford hubs is that i didnt have any GM SRW hub bodies and theyre really expesnive. $500-$700 for a set of new ones and $300-$400 for a set of used ones. the ford hubs can be found on kingpin 60s and also the TTB 50s, so hubs are readily available and cheap. I go these for free
I bought a chunk of 3" OD DOM tubing with 3/8" wall (freaking expensive) and had it turned down to 2.75" on my buddies lathe. spacer was 5/8" thick
good, tight interference fit. doesnt have to be attached very strongly since its just for the seal to ride on.
remember to bevel the inside edge of the bottom to account for the extra material at the base of the spindle
nice fit
trail gear UHMW solid spindle bushings
hub bodies and brakes. k20 rotors 88 F250 lug studs
hubs cleaned up and knobs painted pink and clearcoated
knuckles put together with high steer and
spindles installed. i am using a 3/4 ton disc brake conversion kit from great lakes offroad. i needed a set without the offset that most have. it also included these little spacers that worked perfectly for me. spaced out 1/4" under the bracket
brackets installed
![[Image: IMG_4095_zpswcre1605.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4095_zpswcre1605.jpg.html)
on the other side i used an aluminum 1/4" wheel spacer from autozone that i redrilled and cut the middle out of.
![[Image: IMG_4186_zpsixmaugnr.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4186_zpsixmaugnr.jpg.html)
perfect fit
![[Image: IMG_4266_zpsvwbcquml.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4266_zpsvwbcquml.jpg.html)
tie rod and drag link were both sleeved to 1/4". probably completely overkill, but i dont want to build it twice
![[Image: IMG_4193_zpsl68y3dpj.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4193_zpsl68y3dpj.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4202_zps39y6yyqd.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4202_zps39y6yyqd.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_3993_zps6n0lfw8c.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_3993_zps6n0lfw8c.jpg.html)
Thinking about getting a pitman arm with more drop, i'd like to have less angle on the drag link
![[Image: IMG_4204_zps2da3h41k.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4204_zps2da3h41k.jpg.html)
got my big helper
![[Image: IMG_4242_zpsztdartts.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4242_zpsztdartts.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4241_zpsvguxzovc.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4241_zpsvguxzovc.jpg.html)
took a brake with my boy. taking after his daddy already
![[Image: IMG_4223_zpstkpbqyxm.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4223_zpstkpbqyxm.jpg.html)
rear driveline cut and balanced. toyota CV up top, 1350 on the bottom with long slip joint
![[Image: IMG_4190_zps46wuucba.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4190_zps46wuucba.jpg.html)
beefy
![[Image: IMG_4191_zpsxcnsm4vj.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4191_zpsxcnsm4vj.jpg.html)
on the other side i used an aluminum 1/4" wheel spacer from autozone that i redrilled and cut the middle out of.
perfect fit
tie rod and drag link were both sleeved to 1/4". probably completely overkill, but i dont want to build it twice
Thinking about getting a pitman arm with more drop, i'd like to have less angle on the drag link
got my big helper
took a brake with my boy. taking after his daddy already
rear driveline cut and balanced. toyota CV up top, 1350 on the bottom with long slip joint
beefy
![[Image: IMG_4306_zpsgwb7a96e.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4306_zpsgwb7a96e.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4305_zpszbhmtkoc.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4305_zpszbhmtkoc.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4304_zpsyz8gcc1s.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4304_zpsyz8gcc1s.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4268_zpsq9a1lpic.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4268_zpsq9a1lpic.jpg.html)
front is about 1.5" wider on each side than the rear
![[Image: IMG_4269_zpsjjdz9rqr.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4269_zpsjjdz9rqr.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4270_zpsadxph3ir.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4270_zpsadxph3ir.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMG_4271_zpsqmrmqpqq.jpg]](http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/jenyus425/media/IMG_4271_zpsqmrmqpqq.jpg.html)
now i'm just short one banjo bolt for the front passenger caliper. hopefully the parts store has it in stock tonight. then i just have to bleed the brakes and go!
My goal is to get it drivable then finish up loose ends:
-exhaust. right now its just on a flexible pipe dumping behind the starter. need to do run it all the way back. exhaust is on passenger side, unfortunately, so itll be a little tight with the driveline and transfercase, but itll work
-skid plate. modify the existing skid plate for more protection, strength and clearance. possibly just build a new one.
-cut down front driveline (using 4runner rear driveline that i will sleeve) or possibly do a square tube front driveline since i have one sitting in my garage.
-gauges. I got an autometer YJ gauge set. wasnt planning on doing aftermarket gauges but my son was kind enough to snap off all the needles from my gauges. right after i went to all the work of modifying the senders and wires so i could use the stock jeep senders and wires
![[Image: 61277-lg.jpg]](http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/61277/61277-lg.jpg)
-clean up wiring
-install the full roll cage that i picked up cheap and remove the factory roll cage
-wire in normally open vacuum solenoid to shut down the jeep when i turn the key off.
-set up york air compressor thats been sitting in my garage for a year
-eventually do selectable lockers front and rear, or at least a detroit rear and selectable front
its been a big adventure with this thing, im happy to see it finally coming together
Assembled!
front is about 1.5" wider on each side than the rear
now i'm just short one banjo bolt for the front passenger caliper. hopefully the parts store has it in stock tonight. then i just have to bleed the brakes and go!
My goal is to get it drivable then finish up loose ends:
-exhaust. right now its just on a flexible pipe dumping behind the starter. need to do run it all the way back. exhaust is on passenger side, unfortunately, so itll be a little tight with the driveline and transfercase, but itll work
-skid plate. modify the existing skid plate for more protection, strength and clearance. possibly just build a new one.
-cut down front driveline (using 4runner rear driveline that i will sleeve) or possibly do a square tube front driveline since i have one sitting in my garage.
-gauges. I got an autometer YJ gauge set. wasnt planning on doing aftermarket gauges but my son was kind enough to snap off all the needles from my gauges. right after i went to all the work of modifying the senders and wires so i could use the stock jeep senders and wires
-clean up wiring
-install the full roll cage that i picked up cheap and remove the factory roll cage
-wire in normally open vacuum solenoid to shut down the jeep when i turn the key off.
-set up york air compressor thats been sitting in my garage for a year
-eventually do selectable lockers front and rear, or at least a detroit rear and selectable front
its been a big adventure with this thing, im happy to see it finally coming together
but its all together! and the brakes are bled so it should be ready to go now!
aaaaaannnnd back to not starting. very strange, i havent changed anything since i got it running last time and it was starting and running pretty well then. glow plugs dont feel very warm and i have doubts about the glow plug relay, going to check them out tomorrow.
but its all together! and the brakes are bled so it should be ready to go now!
I'm jealous of those tons you threw under there.... Its looking sharp!
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Probably have a slight air leak and the system depressurized. How long has it been since you started it last? What did you use for your relay? The stock MB system or did you go the Ford route?
I'm jealous of those tons you threw under there.... Its looking sharp!
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(02-16-2015, 03:32 PM)turbojeep Probably have a slight air leak and the system depressurized. How long has it been since you started it last? What did you use for your relay? The stock MB system or did you go the Ford route?
I'm jealous of those tons you threw under there.... Its looking sharp!
i wouldnt be surprised if it was an air leak, but shouldnt that have gone away by now with all the cranking? its been a couple nights of lots of cranking. im using the stock MB relay system, but im thinking the ford solenoid is a better idea now. I just liked the automatic glow plug relay when i turn the key on, but i can do that with a timed relay feeding into the ford relay.
thanks! im tired of building stuff so I'm trying to only build things once which means i build it all overkill!
(02-16-2015, 03:32 PM)turbojeep Probably have a slight air leak and the system depressurized. How long has it been since you started it last? What did you use for your relay? The stock MB system or did you go the Ford route?
I'm jealous of those tons you threw under there.... Its looking sharp!
i wouldnt be surprised if it was an air leak, but shouldnt that have gone away by now with all the cranking? its been a couple nights of lots of cranking. im using the stock MB relay system, but im thinking the ford solenoid is a better idea now. I just liked the automatic glow plug relay when i turn the key on, but i can do that with a timed relay feeding into the ford relay.
thanks! im tired of building stuff so I'm trying to only build things once which means i build it all overkill!
What Battery are you using? The one from the donor car?
The CJ has the MB relay as well, seems to be working well. straight forward and all. Haven't had any problems yet with it.
What tire size you running with those 5.38? Look like 35's in the pics, but it might be the angle.
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I have NEVER had any luck with just the crank crank crank method, personally. But there are others that swear by it. I have brought back 3 engine that had been sitting for years, but we did it by bleeding the injectors lines where they connect to the nozzles. Have someone crank for 10-15 secs with the peddle mashed while you crack open one line, then close it before it has the chance to pull air when y'all stop cranking. When the nozzle it wet, move on to the next line. Most of ours have started when I get 3 cylinders wet. While its running, crack open each line until it sprays diesel. Thats what's worked for us, take it for what worth.
What Battery are you using? The one from the donor car?
The CJ has the MB relay as well, seems to be working well. straight forward and all. Haven't had any problems yet with it.
What tire size you running with those 5.38? Look like 35's in the pics, but it might be the angle.
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I've tried the battery from the donor car and an optima blue top from my rock crawler. im also using my 250amp jump starter so i dont ruin my battery by continually discharging it trying to start.
do you have any pics of your CJ? I love seeing diesel swaps in jeeps!
Shes running 38x14.5r16 Toyo MTs. we had 35s on it for a little while but it just looked funny. its a pretty tall jeep, taller then i would like, its sprung over on 4" lift springs.
Next project for it will be 4 links front and rear, high fenders in the front, comp cut rear, stretch the rear 12", 42" tires and drop the ride height down about 3". that wont be for a long time though, if it ever happens. im tired of building!
thanks, ill try that. i think i remember doing that the last time i had this problem. the glow plug should feel warm though, shouldnt they?
I've tried the battery from the donor car and an optima blue top from my rock crawler. im also using my 250amp jump starter so i dont ruin my battery by continually discharging it trying to start.
do you have any pics of your CJ? I love seeing diesel swaps in jeeps!
Shes running 38x14.5r16 Toyo MTs. we had 35s on it for a little while but it just looked funny. its a pretty tall jeep, taller then i would like, its sprung over on 4" lift springs.
Next project for it will be 4 links front and rear, high fenders in the front, comp cut rear, stretch the rear 12", 42" tires and drop the ride height down about 3". that wont be for a long time though, if it ever happens. im tired of building!
Sounds like you're good on the juice side of things then.
![[Image: 15810593214_639377d6dd_b.jpg]](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/15810593214_639377d6dd_b.jpg)
![[Image: 15810571784_5038f04d13_c.jpg]](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/15810571784_5038f04d13_c.jpg)
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![[Image: 15816535854_1f4ab30dff_c.jpg]](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/15816535854_1f4ab30dff_c.jpg)
I still have some things I need to iron out, but it drives around town like a dream. Plans for the weekend are to install a pryo, one of Greazzer's upgraded IP over flow valves and a manual boost controller if I have the time. Hoping to gain some speed. Then it's just timing the pump and I should be ready to burn some rubber.
Oh man, that sounds like the Scout I used to have. Any time you go spring over AND lift, you're bound to be up in the clouds. Jeep looks good though, just wait till you start driving it regular and it'll all be worth it. They're a hoot to drive!
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Did you ever get it running? Not sure on the glow plugs... Never touched them. I know that you can test them with a multi meter. If they are good, they should read less than 1ohm cold. More than that, they should probably be looked at. over 2, they need to be replaced for sure.
Sounds like you're good on the juice side of things then.
I still have some things I need to iron out, but it drives around town like a dream. Plans for the weekend are to install a pryo, one of Greazzer's upgraded IP over flow valves and a manual boost controller if I have the time. Hoping to gain some speed. Then it's just timing the pump and I should be ready to burn some rubber.
Oh man, that sounds like the Scout I used to have. Any time you go spring over AND lift, you're bound to be up in the clouds. Jeep looks good though, just wait till you start driving it regular and it'll all be worth it. They're a hoot to drive!
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I got it running and took it for a spin tonight. Drove great! Gonna get the temp gauge in tomorrow and do a real road test (hopefully).
Turns out I had a cracked fuel line by the fuel tank so I wasn't able to suck enough fuel. That's what I get for just looking in the filter and seeing fuel instead of actually making sure there was fuel in the line.
Your CJ looks really clean I like it! How did you hook up your brake booster to the vacuum pump line?
I got it running and took it for a spin tonight. Drove great! Gonna get the temp gauge in tomorrow and do a real road test (hopefully).
Turns out I had a cracked fuel line by the fuel tank so I wasn't able to suck enough fuel. That's what I get for just looking in the filter and seeing fuel instead of actually making sure there was fuel in the line.
As for the the brake booster line, we cobbled it together using part of the stock MB vacuum and a hose of the correct size clamped onto it. Then we just ran that to the Jeep's brake booster with a hose clamp.
![[Image: 16605098607_fcc1fc7cce_c.jpg]](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/16605098607_fcc1fc7cce_c.jpg)
Glad to hear a you got it worked out, been able to drive it any more? How fast have you gotten it?
How is your fuel flow? We are recently running into issues with ours, wanted to know if you seem to have low flow through the clear prefilter.
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Thank! But the pictures definitely are doing it some favors in the looks department. Does well enough for us though.
As for the the brake booster line, we cobbled it together using part of the stock MB vacuum and a hose of the correct size clamped onto it. Then we just ran that to the Jeep's brake booster with a hose clamp.
Glad to hear a you got it worked out, been able to drive it any more? How fast have you gotten it?
How is your fuel flow? We are recently running into issues with ours, wanted to know if you seem to have low flow through the clear prefilter.
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-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-16-2015, 09:05 PM #96Is there an in tank screen on the Jeeps? if so the holes are probably to small for diesel and could cause fuel issues
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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When we dropped the tank we put in a new screen on the pick up hose. Fuel flowed easily when I was siphoning it to the prefilter, but even at idle the filter is always empty. Lift pump is suspect at the moment.... hadn't thought about the new net/screen being a bottleneck.
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I re plumbed my tank and used the factory screen, but the return goes all the way down to the bottom of the tank. I have switched lines and started the jeep from both lines and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I have also used a 12v diesel lift pump by mr gasket I got at autozone. Also didn't seem to make any difference. I'm using the same one on my samurai with a 2.3L Peugeot turbo diesel and I've only noticed it making any difference on really steep climbs. I did most of the rubicon not realizing he ground fell off and it it wasn't even working.
I'll check my clear filter tonight and let you know how it looks. Have you determined that you have no leaks in your hoses? A lift pump near the tank would be nice since it'll be pushing the fuel most of the way instead of sucking, less chance of pulling air into the system if you have a leak in one of the lines.
I've driven it a bit more but not much. steering box was leaking so I just got the new one. Hopefully putting it in tonight.
I re plumbed my tank and used the factory screen, but the return goes all the way down to the bottom of the tank. I have switched lines and started the jeep from both lines and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I have also used a 12v diesel lift pump by mr gasket I got at autozone. Also didn't seem to make any difference. I'm using the same one on my samurai with a 2.3L Peugeot turbo diesel and I've only noticed it making any difference on really steep climbs. I did most of the rubicon not realizing he ground fell off and it it wasn't even working.
I'll check my clear filter tonight and let you know how it looks. Have you determined that you have no leaks in your hoses? A lift pump near the tank would be nice since it'll be pushing the fuel most of the way instead of sucking, less chance of pulling air into the system if you have a leak in one of the lines.
I had thought about that, but never had luck with the electric fuel pumps on the Scout II that I had. Went through 3 or 4 of them in a year. So I'd like to keep with a solely mechanical pump.
No, that's the next thing on the list. Going to take care of the hoses this weekend and see if that doesn't help. Got the lift pump rebuilt, with little change.
Do you have any plans on playing with the timing or turning the pump up?
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Get your leak sorted out?
I had thought about that, but never had luck with the electric fuel pumps on the Scout II that I had. Went through 3 or 4 of them in a year. So I'd like to keep with a solely mechanical pump.
No, that's the next thing on the list. Going to take care of the hoses this weekend and see if that doesn't help. Got the lift pump rebuilt, with little change.
Do you have any plans on playing with the timing or turning the pump up?
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What did you do to your tank filler to get the diesel pump to fit in? Had an interesting experience at the gas station the other day since the pump wouldn't fit in the hole.
Going on a 4x4 trip on Sunday so I'll have some real results of how it's doing theb
Yeah I'm planning on tweaking the pump a bit, didn't want to mess with it before the motor was in though. One more point of misconfiguration and I wanted to make sure it all worked. Honestly though, I think I'll end up just getting a myna pump or the USA equivalent of they're still making them either later this year or next year. I could use more power.
What did you do to your tank filler to get the diesel pump to fit in? Had an interesting experience at the gas station the other day since the pump wouldn't fit in the hole.
Going on a 4x4 trip on Sunday so I'll have some real results of how it's doing theb
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