Thoughts on relocating the Battery to the trunk?
Thoughts on relocating the Battery to the trunk?
I know I have some rot in and under my battery tray that I will be repairing soon, and I was thinking this might be a good time to relocate the battery to the trunk. The battery could be placed in a box on the right side of the trunk similar to how it is mounted in the R107. A R107 box and battery might even work. A quick web search did not turn up the type of battery that the 107 uses, but the one in my Mom's 450SL seems as large as the battery in my 240D. Some big 2/0 cable could be used to hook it up. Comments?
ForcedInduction
11-18-2008, 11:53 AM
#2
You would have to use a different type of battery if you want it to fit in the wells, the group 49 battery is much too big to fit. I would find the biggest battery that can fit in the wells and put two of them in parallel.
EDIT: What about those drycell batteries? Expensive, yes, but they can be tilted in ways that a normal battery cannot, also might have other benefits due to deep-cycle etc..
GREASY_BEAST
11-19-2008, 03:25 PM #32 batts means more $$ in fittings... I've been considering it too though, that battery tray would be a great place to put an aircleaner.
EDIT: What about those drycell batteries? Expensive, yes, but they can be tilted in ways that a normal battery cannot, also might have other benefits due to deep-cycle etc..
If you're going to use dual batteries be sure to hook up an isolator. I ran dual batteries on my old Ranger; It was great to see the look on people's faces when I had jumper cables out and jumped my own truck(classic idiot domelight-left-on killed the main battery)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-24-2008, 02:12 PM #4I imagine running that much 2ga wire would get expensive, and fast.
If you're going to use dual batteries be sure to hook up an isolator. I ran dual batteries on my old Ranger; It was great to see the look on people's faces when I had jumper cables out and jumped my own truck(classic idiot domelight-left-on killed the main battery)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better I imagine running that much 2ga wire would get expensive, and fast.Not really, 2/0 wire runs about $4/foot. $50 should cover a car.
Quote:If you're going to use dual batteries be sure to hook up an isolator.There is no need for that. Look at every diesel pickup on the market and you'll find two parallel batteries, semi trucks you'll find 4 or more connected in parallel.
Isolators are for using high power electrics (winches, compressors, hydraulic pumps, lights, etc.) where you can't have them draining the main battery.
ForcedInduction
11-24-2008, 02:31 PM
#5
Simpler=Better I imagine running that much 2ga wire would get expensive, and fast.Not really, 2/0 wire runs about $4/foot. $50 should cover a car.
Quote:If you're going to use dual batteries be sure to hook up an isolator.There is no need for that. Look at every diesel pickup on the market and you'll find two parallel batteries, semi trucks you'll find 4 or more connected in parallel.
Isolators are for using high power electrics (winches, compressors, hydraulic pumps, lights, etc.) where you can't have them draining the main battery.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-24-2008, 04:12 PM #6I was under the impression that if you didn't have new matching batteries they could draw each other down. The big rigs really don't have any kind of diode/relay between batteries?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
try it out and tell us how it feels
![[Image: img1231808006712-1.jpg]](http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq320/cannonballsdl/img1231808006712-1.jpg)
![[Image: img1231724701604-1-1.jpg]](http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq320/cannonballsdl/img1231724701604-1-1.jpg)
![[Image: img1231603208122.jpg]](http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq320/cannonballsdl/img1231603208122.jpg)
cannonballSDL
11-24-2008, 08:14 PM #7well in our s4 we relocated ours with a light weight one, the car understeered less, felt crisp under braking and late apexs. theres no reason why not to. and if you get wire from home depot total cost is under 30 beans!
try it out and tell us how it feels
Simpler=Better I was under the impression that if you didn't have new matching batteries they could draw each other down.Thats why you don't mix-n-match batteries.
Quote:]The big rigs really don't have any kind of diode/relay between batteries?Just a pair of flat copper plates connecting the poles.
ForcedInduction
11-24-2008, 09:57 PM
#8
Simpler=Better I was under the impression that if you didn't have new matching batteries they could draw each other down.Thats why you don't mix-n-match batteries.
Quote:]The big rigs really don't have any kind of diode/relay between batteries?Just a pair of flat copper plates connecting the poles.
eBay has some killer deals on battery cable, most are under $2.50 per ft for 1/0 and 2/0 cable.
ForcedInduction
05-04-2009, 04:48 AM
#10
I just came across this thread again and thought I'd leave a link of my relocation: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/batt...t-328.html
eBay has some killer deals on battery cable, most are under $2.50 per ft for 1/0 and 2/0 cable.
battery is mounted in R/R wheel well, cable runs inside the car along the rocker panel, and ends in the eng compartment connected to a block on the firewall.
$3.99 plus tax and enviro fee. about $5
Charlie
Some models of BMW have the battery mounted in the trunk. the cable I pulled came out of a 525i, and is 11 1/2 ft long and the size of my thumb. also think the 325i also is in the trunk.
battery is mounted in R/R wheel well, cable runs inside the car along the rocker panel, and ends in the eng compartment connected to a block on the firewall.
$3.99 plus tax and enviro fee. about $5
Charlie
how crazy would i be to tie the battery cable up above the fuel lines inside the driveshaft tunnel? i'm considering sheathing it in a flexible hose for extra impact protection. i haven't measured the clearances yet.
another option is up the a-pillar, along the roof line, and down the c-pillar; this route is probably twice as long between the starter and new battery location.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i don't love the idea of the huge wire being visible in the passenger compartment - i am currently rolling carpetless.
how crazy would i be to tie the battery cable up above the fuel lines inside the driveshaft tunnel? i'm considering sheathing it in a flexible hose for extra impact protection. i haven't measured the clearances yet.
another option is up the a-pillar, along the roof line, and down the c-pillar; this route is probably twice as long between the starter and new battery location.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
Angelo225544
12-02-2013, 05:01 PM #13This is one modification I have never been able to justify. W123's already have a tendency to droop a bit in the rear, so removing 40 pounds from between the axles, and then placing that mass behind the rear axle makes little sense to me. If there were a way to locate the battery under the rear seat, which is both low and between the axles (minimizing polar moment improves handling), I believe that would be an elegant solution - I'm just not sure it's possible - so I prefer to leave it right where it is.
This is also the best location if you're interested in improving weight distribution, and among the best locations for lowering the center of gravity. While polar inertia is to be avoided, more often than not, race teams with front or rear engine cars will improve weight distribution at the expense of polar inertia.
raysorenson
12-03-2013, 06:08 PM #14Mass between the axles won't necessarily have less polar inertia than mass placed behind the rear axle. In the case of relocating the battery of a W123 from ~7 feet in front of the rear axle to 2-3' behind the rear axle, polar inertia will be reduced.
This is also the best location if you're interested in improving weight distribution, and among the best locations for lowering the center of gravity. While polar inertia is to be avoided, more often than not, race teams with front or rear engine cars will improve weight distribution at the expense of polar inertia.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-03-2013, 07:51 PM #15You could always cut a hole in the floor under the rear seat and weld in a battery box...I'm just saying.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Another great option is to drop like $1000 on a li-ion battery with the same 1000cca and leave it under the bonnet. Those batteries weigh in at like 4lb.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(12-03-2013, 08:21 PM)larsalan Another great option is to drop like $1000 on a li-ion battery with the same 1000cca and leave it under the bonnet. Those batteries weigh in at like 4lb.I run a 4cell on my 600cc ninja, it's around 1-2lbs. Awesome battery!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-03-2013, 11:11 PM #17(12-03-2013, 08:21 PM)larsalan Another great option is to drop like $1000 on a li-ion battery with the same 1000cca and leave it under the bonnet. Those batteries weigh in at like 4lb.I run a 4cell on my 600cc ninja, it's around 1-2lbs. Awesome battery!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Wherever you put the battery, you need to provide ventilation, unless you want to experiment with hydrogen power. On some cars, Mercedes puts the battery in the location I described, but they have vent lines that allow them to "breathe" outside air.
You really do need an isolator if you use two batteries.
1987 Mercedes 190TD
Just a left brain idea, I don't know if there's enough room in your car: the vacuum supply for the door locks is located under the right rear seat. Why not move the battery there, and relocate the vacuum pump (assuming you don't remove that altogether). If you put a pair of batteries under the left and right sides, you would balance out left to right, and the batteries would be almost dead center longitudinally.
Wherever you put the battery, you need to provide ventilation, unless you want to experiment with hydrogen power. On some cars, Mercedes puts the battery in the location I described, but they have vent lines that allow them to "breathe" outside air.
You really do need an isolator if you use two batteries.
1987 Mercedes 190TD
2 Guest(s)
2 Guest(s)