My 87 300D Build Plus...
My 87 300D Build Plus...
Waiting on the timing of the IP until I get the new lines since I have to take them off anyways and might as well knock it all out at once.
Next job will be swapping over the 94's breaks. The car came with new pads all around still in the box. Still on fence about the front springs, I don't have a spring compressor So I would have to locate or buy one which is a pain. Might be worth it though since I would like to take a coil and a half out of my 85's front springs later.
It will be nice to get it running right so I can start focusing on the upgrades I would like to do. I think the first step should be the IP.
One set of IP lines on the way, going to pick up a second full set also, also ordered all the needed plastic clips etc for the body molding so should have all that together soon. Depending on temp in the morning I'm going to run out and finish up the shifter swap before I head to work @ 11am
Waiting on the timing of the IP until I get the new lines since I have to take them off anyways and might as well knock it all out at once.
Next job will be swapping over the 94's breaks. The car came with new pads all around still in the box. Still on fence about the front springs, I don't have a spring compressor So I would have to locate or buy one which is a pain. Might be worth it though since I would like to take a coil and a half out of my 85's front springs later.
It will be nice to get it running right so I can start focusing on the upgrades I would like to do. I think the first step should be the IP.
(11-19-2013, 02:20 PM)NGARover One set of IP lines on the way, going to pick up a second full set also, also ordered all the needed plastic clips etc for the body molding so should have all that together soon. Depending on temp in the morning I'm going to run out and finish up the shifter swap before I head to work @ 11amRent the right tool from someone on the forums or have a shop pull them. I don't touch springs unless I have to they scare the crap out of my.
Waiting on the timing of the IP until I get the new lines since I have to take them off anyways and might as well knock it all out at once.
Next job will be swapping over the 94's breaks. The car came with new pads all around still in the box. Still on fence about the front springs, I don't have a spring compressor So I would have to locate or buy one which is a pain. Might be worth it though since I would like to take a coil and a half out of my 85's front springs later.
It will be nice to get it running right so I can start focusing on the upgrades I would like to do. I think the first step should be the IP.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-19-2013, 02:30 PM #52(11-19-2013, 02:20 PM)NGARover One set of IP lines on the way, going to pick up a second full set also, also ordered all the needed plastic clips etc for the body molding so should have all that together soon. Depending on temp in the morning I'm going to run out and finish up the shifter swap before I head to work @ 11amRent the right tool from someone on the forums or have a shop pull them. I don't touch springs unless I have to they scare the crap out of my.
Waiting on the timing of the IP until I get the new lines since I have to take them off anyways and might as well knock it all out at once.
Next job will be swapping over the 94's breaks. The car came with new pads all around still in the box. Still on fence about the front springs, I don't have a spring compressor So I would have to locate or buy one which is a pain. Might be worth it though since I would like to take a coil and a half out of my 85's front springs later.
It will be nice to get it running right so I can start focusing on the upgrades I would like to do. I think the first step should be the IP.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(11-19-2013, 02:30 PM)Simpler=Better Rent the right tool from someone on the forums or have a shop pull them. I don't touch springs unless I have to they scare the crap out of my.
Exactly. Not touching them unless I had the Mercedes tool to do it right. I like being alive.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
11-22-2013, 12:59 AM #54Even with the tool my brother and I were scared shitless. Worth it though.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
What is it? Obviously I need to tighten it back down. Plus, I have a sample of ALDAS, whats the best way to test them to make sure they are good and can I use an ALDA form a om617 engine (are they the same?)
Thanks again for the helps.
Answered my ALDA question
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...603-a.html
Replacing my IP lines right now. While doing this, I figured I should route the wire loom correctly... Man I hate when I follow other work. Anyways... I was disconnecting the loom and got to the top of the IP, the one that connects to the left of where the ALDA is (Should be) and I noticed that it loose! not the wire, what the wire connects to... here is video of what I'm talking about.
What is it? Obviously I need to tighten it back down. Plus, I have a sample of ALDAS, whats the best way to test them to make sure they are good and can I use an ALDA form a om617 engine (are they the same?)
Thanks again for the helps.
Answered my ALDA question
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...603-a.html
Got the new IP lines installed. Still need a few brackets and some plastic clips but it looks 100% better.
Wimutt informed me that the loose part is the Rack sensor, and that I can delete it.
replaced the "flex joint" in the manifold that was crappy... It of course required the taking out of the turbo, which allows me to also address the issue I think I have with the waste gate. if you look at the pictures you will see what I mean. The rod that controls it is up against metal, I don't see how this would work, or if it's put together wrong or?
On the inside, all I did today was swap the shifter to the 94's since it's a little higher than the 87's. Good thing to know for anyone else wanting to do a swap like this.
Also mounted the lower ground effects. Looking better all the time.
Ok, cold, but worked all day on the car.
Got the new IP lines installed. Still need a few brackets and some plastic clips but it looks 100% better.
Wimutt informed me that the loose part is the Rack sensor, and that I can delete it.
replaced the "flex joint" in the manifold that was crappy... It of course required the taking out of the turbo, which allows me to also address the issue I think I have with the waste gate. if you look at the pictures you will see what I mean. The rod that controls it is up against metal, I don't see how this would work, or if it's put together wrong or?
On the inside, all I did today was swap the shifter to the 94's since it's a little higher than the 87's. Good thing to know for anyone else wanting to do a swap like this.
Also mounted the lower ground effects. Looking better all the time.
Didn't look back through the pics to see if it was there at one time, but judging by the ghetto IP lines that were on your car I wonder if the PO had some work done and whoever did the work took that heat shield off.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Not sure if you removed it or if it was missing but there's no heat shield between the exhaust manifold and your cyl head. Not sure how important it really is but Mercedes put it there for a reason I suppose.
Didn't look back through the pics to see if it was there at one time, but judging by the ghetto IP lines that were on your car I wonder if the PO had some work done and whoever did the work took that heat shield off.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Found another issue, the valve cover gasket looks hosed... WTH? it should have been brand new with the head gasket kit...
Sigh.
Which reminds me... I still need to order one...
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Most head gasket kits don't include the valve cover gasket. The one I got from the dealer didn't come with it, and all the ones I saw online don't include it? Only exception is a combo I saw on ebay but it was the seller that was packaging them together.
Which reminds me... I still need to order one...
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
(11-25-2013, 02:42 PM)capflya Most head gasket kits don't include the valve cover gasket. The one I got from the dealer didn't come with it, and all the ones I saw online don't include it? Only exception is a combo I saw on ebay but it was the seller that was packaging them together.
Which reminds me... I still need to order one...
Well, in my case, when I dropped the car off it had the full HG kit, a new water pump and seal plus that valve cover seal plus another head. I had wanted to make sure that everything was replaced. But with the car sitting over there for so long I guess he lost some of it. He missed quite a few things actually. The 3rd bolt on the bottom exhaust flange was missing. one of the manifold bolts was missing. the 2 bolt issues in the valve cover that I now have to fix, plus he was to replace that expansion join between the manifolds when putting it back together, which is a pretty obvious thing...
I'm going to head back over and see if any other stuff is laying around where he had my parts because My car had all the brackets etc for the IP lines, plus there is a piece missing under the turbo, some brake that connects it to the alternator area? I see the two mounting holes but no part.
Again, it's why I hate following someones work.
Didn't work on the car after work. to fricken cold. Today is only 38 and raining, so it's going to be a wash also I'm afraid. I need to build a garage.
(11-25-2013, 02:42 PM)capflya Most head gasket kits don't include the valve cover gasket. The one I got from the dealer didn't come with it, and all the ones I saw online don't include it? Only exception is a combo I saw on ebay but it was the seller that was packaging them together.
Which reminds me... I still need to order one...
Well, in my case, when I dropped the car off it had the full HG kit, a new water pump and seal plus that valve cover seal plus another head. I had wanted to make sure that everything was replaced. But with the car sitting over there for so long I guess he lost some of it. He missed quite a few things actually. The 3rd bolt on the bottom exhaust flange was missing. one of the manifold bolts was missing. the 2 bolt issues in the valve cover that I now have to fix, plus he was to replace that expansion join between the manifolds when putting it back together, which is a pretty obvious thing...
I'm going to head back over and see if any other stuff is laying around where he had my parts because My car had all the brackets etc for the IP lines, plus there is a piece missing under the turbo, some brake that connects it to the alternator area? I see the two mounting holes but no part.
Again, it's why I hate following someones work.
Didn't work on the car after work. to fricken cold. Today is only 38 and raining, so it's going to be a wash also I'm afraid. I need to build a garage.
But, zero boost. Checked the turbo again, it spins free, there is no play, I must be missing something.
I have 2 ALDAs sitting here, tested them both and both seem to be leaking. one worse than the other, so I my try to put it on and see if I can cut down on the idle smoke.
Also there is a pump on the drivers side rear (under the seat) I be leave it's the pump for the head rests etc. it's making a lot of noise. I'm going to looking into swapping in the one from the 94, it's different but should work.
Here is a longer video...
Also, I got the remaining plastic tabs etc for the trim, so I should have all that finished tomorrow.
Ok, engine sounds 100% better now.
But, zero boost. Checked the turbo again, it spins free, there is no play, I must be missing something.
I have 2 ALDAs sitting here, tested them both and both seem to be leaking. one worse than the other, so I my try to put it on and see if I can cut down on the idle smoke.
Also there is a pump on the drivers side rear (under the seat) I be leave it's the pump for the head rests etc. it's making a lot of noise. I'm going to looking into swapping in the one from the 94, it's different but should work.
Here is a longer video...
Also, I got the remaining plastic tabs etc for the trim, so I should have all that finished tomorrow.
(11-29-2013, 08:36 PM)NGARover Got to take the car for a drive today. Way under powered. The most boost I saw was 4 at about 4k rpms.. sad...
Another angle if you haven't already is gutting the cat (DOC for diesel but at any rate). Mine was clogged so bad the backpressure in the exhaust kept blowing the EGR delete cap off of the exhaust manifold. Gutted that and I got tons of power. Possible if your car was running poorly before it could have blown lots of soot and clogged up the exhaust .
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Double check the vacuum lines... my friend got a 190D 2.5Turbo that "must need a new engine because it's so slow". Figured out the vacuum spaghetti on it and then it was actually making boost.
Another angle if you haven't already is gutting the cat (DOC for diesel but at any rate). Mine was clogged so bad the backpressure in the exhaust kept blowing the EGR delete cap off of the exhaust manifold. Gutted that and I got tons of power. Possible if your car was running poorly before it could have blown lots of soot and clogged up the exhaust .
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
Was having continued issues with no boost, smoking...
-Change fuel filter, no help.
-Found large vacuum pressure in tank, fixed tank vent.
-found nicked hard line, fixed with compression fitting.
-replace all the rubber fuel line. replaced all the clamps.
and finally removed the cat.
Car is back up to factory speed specs almost.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6bXSoXGq...e=youtu.be
Here is what the cat looked like inside... almost fully plugged.
Ok, was able to get a lot done over the last few days.
Was having continued issues with no boost, smoking...
-Change fuel filter, no help.
-Found large vacuum pressure in tank, fixed tank vent.
-found nicked hard line, fixed with compression fitting.
-replace all the rubber fuel line. replaced all the clamps.
and finally removed the cat.
Car is back up to factory speed specs almost.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6bXSoXGq...e=youtu.be
Here is what the cat looked like inside... almost fully plugged.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX28fQ9WIjo
Engine is dead... as in dead dead...
That ticking came back, turned to a knock and then engine literally went boom, and shut down. All in the course of a block. Was able to coast it to parking spot. Will have to towed to the house in the AM to start the process of seeing what all happened.
well... crap. looks like my engine is toast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX28fQ9WIjo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX28fQ9WIjo
Engine is dead... as in dead dead...
That ticking came back, turned to a knock and then engine literally went boom, and shut down. All in the course of a block. Was able to coast it to parking spot. Will have to towed to the house in the AM to start the process of seeing what all happened.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
That's no good... I guess you have an excuse for a 606a now
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
JustPassinThrough has one up for 2k in the for sale section. Shipping might be pricey though.
'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" - Brabus wheels and almost all the options a w210 could have
2007 Chevy 2500HD CCSB Duramax with about 400-500 rwhp depending on the tune I use
1983 300D Silver Exterior/Black inside - Sold and will be missed, may we never meet in a PnP.
(12-14-2013, 11:22 AM)capflya JustPassinThrough has one up for 2k in the for sale section. Shipping might be pricey though.
True, but shipping, plus have to sours an oil pan and all the pulleys would get expensive very fast. Basically, I would have to locate a second donor engine that been ruined..
The is a local one for sale for 1700 complete, but has a over 240k on it. Was in a wreaked car.
Rained all weekend so no chance to get outside to car to take off valve cover. I work the next 3 nights then off for 2 solid weeks, so it will be gotten to soon.
Met up with Winmutt today, An I'm now the owner of his old set of rims. As luck would have it, the 2 new rear tires I got for them literally where deliver the night my car broke... lol. the luck of it all. He loaned me his head bolt tool and pin puller... so OFF WITH HER HEAD! i say....
He has other 14 should I want to go that way again and keep this fix cheap... May happen. But doing it myself this time, like I should have to begin with.
(12-14-2013, 11:22 AM)capflya JustPassinThrough has one up for 2k in the for sale section. Shipping might be pricey though.
True, but shipping, plus have to sours an oil pan and all the pulleys would get expensive very fast. Basically, I would have to locate a second donor engine that been ruined..
The is a local one for sale for 1700 complete, but has a over 240k on it. Was in a wreaked car.
Rained all weekend so no chance to get outside to car to take off valve cover. I work the next 3 nights then off for 2 solid weeks, so it will be gotten to soon.
Met up with Winmutt today, An I'm now the owner of his old set of rims. As luck would have it, the 2 new rear tires I got for them literally where deliver the night my car broke... lol. the luck of it all. He loaned me his head bolt tool and pin puller... so OFF WITH HER HEAD! i say....
He has other 14 should I want to go that way again and keep this fix cheap... May happen. But doing it myself this time, like I should have to begin with.
raysorenson
12-15-2013, 07:10 PM #70Advice you didn't ask for: Get a 602. They're available in these parts, it's easy to make power with one, they have the good injector nozzles, angled prechambers, an exhaust manifold that's not a total turd like the 603's, no known problems with head castings, they leave more room up front for intercooler options if you move the condenser/radiator package back and they lose weight in a place where the W124 needs it the most.
(12-15-2013, 07:10 PM)raysorenson Advice you didn't ask for: Get a 602. They're available in these parts, it's easy to make power with one, they have the good injector nozzles, angled prechambers, an exhaust manifold that's not a total turd like the 603's, no known problems with head castings, they leave more room up front for intercooler options if you move the condenser/radiator package back and they lose weight in a place where the W124 needs it the most.
hmm.... I never even thought about the 602. Need to do some research on them.
(12-15-2013, 07:10 PM)raysorenson Advice you didn't ask for: Get a 602. They're available in these parts, it's easy to make power with one, they have the good injector nozzles, angled prechambers, an exhaust manifold that's not a total turd like the 603's, no known problems with head castings, they leave more room up front for intercooler options if you move the condenser/radiator package back and they lose weight in a place where the W124 needs it the most.
hmm.... I never even thought about the 602. Need to do some research on them.
raysorenson
12-16-2013, 05:10 PM #72There's a 603 sitting in an '87 300d at the Bham pull a part. I grabbed the crank pulley and it turned.
Oh well. I'll pull the head on this one later after I get the new engine installed and the car driving again and see the full extent of damage. If I'm lucky maybe the bock is savable, but going by the other one I saw I'm now holding much hope. The new engine is complete with IP and intake, so I'll get a few extra parts out of the deal. The extra intake for converting for inter-cooler... and an extra IP to send away...
After looking into it more seeing another engine posted today with almost the exact same damage (resulting in the parts falling down into the piston and horking up the block) It looks like my best money and time will be spend putting in a new engine. Found one about 5 hours away so going to pick it up.
Oh well. I'll pull the head on this one later after I get the new engine installed and the car driving again and see the full extent of damage. If I'm lucky maybe the bock is savable, but going by the other one I saw I'm now holding much hope. The new engine is complete with IP and intake, so I'll get a few extra parts out of the deal. The extra intake for converting for inter-cooler... and an extra IP to send away...
from the picture it looks look's the valve and spring are still there in good shape just replace the bucket and check the cam lobe for damage
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-17-2013, 04:08 PM #75If the valve didn't fall in to the cylinder it may just need a new lifter bucket?
from the picture it looks look's the valve and spring are still there in good shape just replace the bucket and check the cam lobe for damage
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Most likely valve was bend or prevented from closing by foreign object preventing valve to be seated in the pocket.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
That kind of damage, if timing chain is not broken, indicates piston striking valve in open position.
Most likely valve was bend or prevented from closing by foreign object preventing valve to be seated in the pocket.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-18-2013, 10:18 AM #78Easy way to check it. See if you can open the valve take a stick or punch and hit the top of the valve steam with a hammer. if it bounce's it ok. if it did not move at all it probably shot. But remember the valve springs have a good amount of force. It should move a little bit. Second TEST pull a glow plug turn the engine until both valves are closed and see if you can put air pressure in the engine if you hear air escaping from the intake or exhaust you have a damaged valve. If the engine try's to turn over the valves are probably fine. I have seen lifter buckets fail before. If the hydraulic part of the lifter was plugged and the lifter collapsed the cam slaps the lifter bucket every time it turns hitting it and can cause damage like this.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I'll do a quick check in later today. I bought a new engine for the car and plan on heading up Saturday to bring it home and hope to install it this coming week. The new engine has 114k on it and a #17 on it. So less than half the miles and a better head...
(12-19-2013, 02:25 AM)NGARover I'll do a quick check in later today. I bought a new engine for the car and plan on heading up Saturday to bring it home and hope to install it this coming week. The new engine has 114k on it and a #17 on it. So less than half the miles and a better head...
New engine is home and waiting to be dropped in.
(12-19-2013, 02:25 AM)NGARover I'll do a quick check in later today. I bought a new engine for the car and plan on heading up Saturday to bring it home and hope to install it this coming week. The new engine has 114k on it and a #17 on it. So less than half the miles and a better head...
New engine is home and waiting to be dropped in.
(12-17-2013, 04:08 PM)willbhere4u If the valve didn't fall in to the cylinder it may just need a new lifter bucket?
from the picture it looks look's the valve and spring are still there in good shape just replace the bucket and check the cam lobe for damage
Valve and spring are still there along with the lower half of the bucket. There is damage to the cylinder wall in the head preventing the bucket from moving back up. a couple gouges in the sides. Found a loose phillips screw in there... Not sure if this was the cause but sure does not belong there...
(12-17-2013, 04:08 PM)willbhere4u If the valve didn't fall in to the cylinder it may just need a new lifter bucket?
from the picture it looks look's the valve and spring are still there in good shape just replace the bucket and check the cam lobe for damage
Valve and spring are still there along with the lower half of the bucket. There is damage to the cylinder wall in the head preventing the bucket from moving back up. a couple gouges in the sides. Found a loose phillips screw in there... Not sure if this was the cause but sure does not belong there...
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
As I said in #76!
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
(12-24-2013, 07:21 PM)anjay As I said in #76!
YUP!
I know. I work backasswards, but I went ahead and mounted the wheels to get a look at them. Course the car has not settled yet. I wanted to get an idea of fit, and if I should put the springs in from the 94 etc... I think the car needs to come down at least an inch all the way around if not a little more.
Also, here are a couple shots showing the damage to the heads lifter cylinder.
(12-24-2013, 07:21 PM)anjay As I said in #76!
YUP!
I know. I work backasswards, but I went ahead and mounted the wheels to get a look at them. Course the car has not settled yet. I wanted to get an idea of fit, and if I should put the springs in from the 94 etc... I think the car needs to come down at least an inch all the way around if not a little more.
Also, here are a couple shots showing the damage to the heads lifter cylinder.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-27-2013, 12:32 PM #84If that was my car I would file it down and use a brake hone to smooth it out then install a new bucket as long as the new bucket moves smoothly it should be fine for many more miles. I bet the screw hit the bucket and cam and broke the bucket. bet it would run just fine after that fix.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
either bent or broken. Hydraulic cam followers looked like the one in your pictures. Initialy I thought that entire engine is a scrap. After careful examination and pressure test it was rebuild. Car is on the road with original head and works just fine. The reason of broken chain after 353 000 km was
wear on camshaft sprocket. It was so bad that chain first jump the teeth and then when pistons
started to hit valves it broke. And that is a testimony how tought those engines are!
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
I did once rebuild 602 which died due to broken chain at highway speed. Out of 10, 9 valves where
either bent or broken. Hydraulic cam followers looked like the one in your pictures. Initialy I thought that entire engine is a scrap. After careful examination and pressure test it was rebuild. Car is on the road with original head and works just fine. The reason of broken chain after 353 000 km was
wear on camshaft sprocket. It was so bad that chain first jump the teeth and then when pistons
started to hit valves it broke. And that is a testimony how tought those engines are!
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
(12-27-2013, 10:18 PM)anjay I did once rebuild 602 which died due to broken chain at highway speed. Out of 10, 9 valves where
either bent or broken. Hydraulic cam followers looked like the one in your pictures. Initialy I thought that entire engine is a scrap. After careful examination and pressure test it was rebuild. Car is on the road with original head and works just fine. The reason of broken chain after 353 000 km was
wear on camshaft sprocket. It was so bad that chain first jump the teeth and then when pistons
started to hit valves it broke. And that is a testimony how tought those engines are!
The original engine will find new life. I'm going to give it to Winmutt...
(12-27-2013, 10:18 PM)anjay I did once rebuild 602 which died due to broken chain at highway speed. Out of 10, 9 valves where
either bent or broken. Hydraulic cam followers looked like the one in your pictures. Initialy I thought that entire engine is a scrap. After careful examination and pressure test it was rebuild. Car is on the road with original head and works just fine. The reason of broken chain after 353 000 km was
wear on camshaft sprocket. It was so bad that chain first jump the teeth and then when pistons
started to hit valves it broke. And that is a testimony how tought those engines are!
The original engine will find new life. I'm going to give it to Winmutt...
So today was a balmy 45... Tomorrow looks like it might hit 50 then down to the 30's and wet for the following 7 days.... sigh. So busted my ass on the car today and will again tomorrow.
Got the engine out.
Cleaned everything up so it's nicer to work. I hate working on a greasy engine. Cleaned up the engine bay and scraped off most of the caulk some PO put over the seam. You can see the damage the caulk holding moister has caused. This is not OEM. Anyways, I'll remove everything from around the area first thing in the mooring and wire brush it, then tack what I can. I could cut that section out of the 94 and weld the metal together.
You know that old saying out of sight out of mind? Well I dropped the heat shield that covers the hanger bearing for the drive shaft and the rubber is all but gone, literally the bottom inch is still intact. Some other pieces fell out of the front mount of the drive shaft, I'll get some pictures tomorrow, but I'm going to need a diagram of what should be there.
At some point in the cars life, a PO used about 25 zip ties to mount the oil cooler... going to need to locate the correct brackets for that. Also the A/C line from the compressor to the condenser, at some point or for some reason the line was cut in half, and someone connected the two pieces with a piece of pipe inside and 4 cheap hose clamps. Good sign is that the compressor is free and about a cup of clean oil poured out of the line when I cut it again. I have to look but I might even get lucky and be able to use the stuff from the 94.
took some pictures of the engines showing the VIN in the new engine,
the Vac pumps on both (the one with the screws in the cover is the new engine) I'm guessing that must be a new style pump?
Hands hurt. Back hurts. Going to go a soak in my jacuzzi for an hour....
Using a vin decoder it would seem the car was another 87 300D Possibly an 88... The fact it has a 17 head on it makes me wonder if this wasn't a replacement engine... But the oil filter is different, the turbo oil drain is different...so The vin decoder might be totally wrong.
Alright.
So today was a balmy 45... Tomorrow looks like it might hit 50 then down to the 30's and wet for the following 7 days.... sigh. So busted my ass on the car today and will again tomorrow.
Got the engine out.
Cleaned everything up so it's nicer to work. I hate working on a greasy engine. Cleaned up the engine bay and scraped off most of the caulk some PO put over the seam. You can see the damage the caulk holding moister has caused. This is not OEM. Anyways, I'll remove everything from around the area first thing in the mooring and wire brush it, then tack what I can. I could cut that section out of the 94 and weld the metal together.
You know that old saying out of sight out of mind? Well I dropped the heat shield that covers the hanger bearing for the drive shaft and the rubber is all but gone, literally the bottom inch is still intact. Some other pieces fell out of the front mount of the drive shaft, I'll get some pictures tomorrow, but I'm going to need a diagram of what should be there.
At some point in the cars life, a PO used about 25 zip ties to mount the oil cooler... going to need to locate the correct brackets for that. Also the A/C line from the compressor to the condenser, at some point or for some reason the line was cut in half, and someone connected the two pieces with a piece of pipe inside and 4 cheap hose clamps. Good sign is that the compressor is free and about a cup of clean oil poured out of the line when I cut it again. I have to look but I might even get lucky and be able to use the stuff from the 94.
took some pictures of the engines showing the VIN in the new engine,
the Vac pumps on both (the one with the screws in the cover is the new engine) I'm guessing that must be a new style pump?
Hands hurt. Back hurts. Going to go a soak in my jacuzzi for an hour....
Using a vin decoder it would seem the car was another 87 300D Possibly an 88... The fact it has a 17 head on it makes me wonder if this wasn't a replacement engine... But the oil filter is different, the turbo oil drain is different...so The vin decoder might be totally wrong.
. On the bright side I've caught up on an untold number of b rated action flicks.I wouldnt get too attached to the oil cooler mounts, even with 2.5" piping, you are gonna need to tilt it back some if you run it the same way I do (vs cutting into the bumper).
Double check on the vac pump, you will def want the newer model. I transfered the old one to my new engine when I swapped it. Also check the idler pulley arm, mine needs to be replace
.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Those wheels sure do look purty on there! I am pretty much recovered today but am now busy tomorrow and wed. I could possibly come up Thur but Sat/Sun would be better for me. You still gonna be working on it then? Sorry I havent been up to help, I hate getting sick . On the bright side I've caught up on an untold number of b rated action flicks.
I wouldnt get too attached to the oil cooler mounts, even with 2.5" piping, you are gonna need to tilt it back some if you run it the same way I do (vs cutting into the bumper).
Double check on the vac pump, you will def want the newer model. I transfered the old one to my new engine when I swapped it. Also check the idler pulley arm, mine needs to be replace .
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Looked around for some sheet metal and the solution seemed obvious the 94 e320! Lots of free sheet metal there.
Now disclaimer I'm NOT a welder. I'm not even a body repair guy.... I'm just a hack who want this issue fixed and I want to do it myself... so on with the show...
First thing I did was take everything away from the damaged area, then used a wire wheel on my drill to clean it up. First issue became painfully obvious. This car has been in a hard front end wreck in the past, bad enough that part of the front frame was replaced. Poorly. I'm guessing that this was the same job that caked all the caulk around (to hide their crappy work). Good news is that the rusted area didn't effect the spring perch, and only caught one side of the shock mount. Also, this car has always run like it's on rails, so they at least got that much ok.
Once everything was clean, I took my girder and grinder down all the crappy welds, (Now I'm no welder but I'm better than whoever did the work in the past). I welded anything that was still solid metal until I got to areas where the rust had created hole. then cut some metal out of the 94's fender to make patches and welded them into place. I also redid the weld going down the repair of the front frame rail.
At first I was going to grind it all down to make it pretty, then I thought screw that. It's my car and I want to be reminded of all the hell I've been though to make it mine...
Besides, it makes for an interesting conversation piece. Very "Road Warrior"Cleaned up the welds with the wire wheel and painted both sides with Rustolium. I'll revisit the areas again later on when I open this quart Por 15 I have. Got all the little bits put back and called it a day.
Got up this morning and thought hmmm... I should deal with that rust.
Looked around for some sheet metal and the solution seemed obvious the 94 e320! Lots of free sheet metal there.
Now disclaimer I'm NOT a welder. I'm not even a body repair guy.... I'm just a hack who want this issue fixed and I want to do it myself... so on with the show...
First thing I did was take everything away from the damaged area, then used a wire wheel on my drill to clean it up. First issue became painfully obvious. This car has been in a hard front end wreck in the past, bad enough that part of the front frame was replaced. Poorly. I'm guessing that this was the same job that caked all the caulk around (to hide their crappy work). Good news is that the rusted area didn't effect the spring perch, and only caught one side of the shock mount. Also, this car has always run like it's on rails, so they at least got that much ok.
Once everything was clean, I took my girder and grinder down all the crappy welds, (Now I'm no welder but I'm better than whoever did the work in the past). I welded anything that was still solid metal until I got to areas where the rust had created hole. then cut some metal out of the 94's fender to make patches and welded them into place. I also redid the weld going down the repair of the front frame rail.
At first I was going to grind it all down to make it pretty, then I thought screw that. It's my car and I want to be reminded of all the hell I've been though to make it mine... Besides, it makes for an interesting conversation piece. Very "Road Warrior"
Cleaned up the welds with the wire wheel and painted both sides with Rustolium. I'll revisit the areas again later on when I open this quart Por 15 I have. Got all the little bits put back and called it a day.
Been doing a lot of little stuff to the car as I wait for parts. more pictures soon.
Got new oil cooler lines installed today. Except for the cooler part itself. Going to have to run that along with the old lines into town so get the lines removed. There is just no way I see doing it without damaging the cooler. The nut from the lines has all but become one with the threads.
Been doing a lot of little stuff to the car as I wait for parts. more pictures soon.
That'd be damn near tee shirt weather for us, and those crazy people across the pond would probably be sweating!
Hate to see your engine went, but now you can do whatever you want
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
"Got down to 38f" lol
That'd be damn near tee shirt weather for us, and those crazy people across the pond would probably be sweating!
Hate to see your engine went, but now you can do whatever you want
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(01-19-2014, 09:26 PM)MFSuper90 "Got down to 38f" lol
That'd be damn near tee shirt weather for us, and those crazy people across the pond would probably be sweating!
Hate to see your engine went, but now you can do whatever you want
HA! Well, I grew up in North Dakota, and lived there till my mid 20's so I know cold.... But damn... it FEELS colder down here lol.
Few more parts on the way...
Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
--------- ---------- -------- ----------
126-410-04-15-M57 $77.25 1 $77.25
Flex Disc Kit (Front or Rear) Brand: O.E.M. (1987 Mercedes-Benz
300D Base Sedan)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
124-410-07-81-M36 $19.00 1 $19.00
Driveshaft Center Support (Does not Include Bearing) Brand: Febi,
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan
----------------------------------------------------------------------
202-411-04-97-M203 $4.50 1 $4.50
Driveshaft Center Support Boot, Brand: Rein Automotive
----------------------------------------------------------------------
008-981-43-25-M34 $12.75 1 $12.75
Drive Shaft Bearing Brand: FAG, 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan
----------------------------------------------------------------------
000-990-32-50-M36 $0.75 14 $10.50
Exhaust Nut (Split Collar) - 8 X 1.25 mm (12 mm Hex), Brand: Febi
----------------------------------------------------------------------
129-990-04-10-M22 $4.75 2 $9.50
Exhaust Bolt - 8 X 1.25 X 58 mm Brand: Genuine Mercedes (1987
Mercedes-Benz 300D Base Sedan)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
201-490-00-37-M90 $12.00 1 $12.00
Exhaust Bracket Kit - Above Catalytic Converter Brand: Trucktec (1987
Mercedes-Benz 300D Base Sedan)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Shipping for Package 1: $FREE
Total Price: $145.50
(01-19-2014, 09:26 PM)MFSuper90 "Got down to 38f" lol
That'd be damn near tee shirt weather for us, and those crazy people across the pond would probably be sweating!
Hate to see your engine went, but now you can do whatever you want
HA! Well, I grew up in North Dakota, and lived there till my mid 20's so I know cold.... But damn... it FEELS colder down here lol.
Few more parts on the way...
Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
--------- ---------- -------- ----------
126-410-04-15-M57 $77.25 1 $77.25
Flex Disc Kit (Front or Rear) Brand: O.E.M. (1987 Mercedes-Benz
300D Base Sedan)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
124-410-07-81-M36 $19.00 1 $19.00
Driveshaft Center Support (Does not Include Bearing) Brand: Febi,
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan
----------------------------------------------------------------------
202-411-04-97-M203 $4.50 1 $4.50
Driveshaft Center Support Boot, Brand: Rein Automotive
----------------------------------------------------------------------
008-981-43-25-M34 $12.75 1 $12.75
Drive Shaft Bearing Brand: FAG, 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan
----------------------------------------------------------------------
000-990-32-50-M36 $0.75 14 $10.50
Exhaust Nut (Split Collar) - 8 X 1.25 mm (12 mm Hex), Brand: Febi
----------------------------------------------------------------------
129-990-04-10-M22 $4.75 2 $9.50
Exhaust Bolt - 8 X 1.25 X 58 mm Brand: Genuine Mercedes (1987
Mercedes-Benz 300D Base Sedan)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
201-490-00-37-M90 $12.00 1 $12.00
Exhaust Bracket Kit - Above Catalytic Converter Brand: Trucktec (1987
Mercedes-Benz 300D Base Sedan)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Shipping for Package 1: $FREE
Total Price: $145.50
(12-26-2013, 02:30 PM)NGARover(12-24-2013, 07:21 PM)anjay As I said in #76!Also, here are a couple shots showing the damage to the heads lifter cylinder.
My chain broke at 6000rpm wot on my 606.
all 24 valves was bent, camshafts broke in many pieces, all cambearings broke.
Just changed 2 valveguides, 24 valves, new camshafts and bearings. Works as a new engine after that little incident
EDH_Performance
01-21-2014, 04:01 AM #94(12-26-2013, 02:30 PM)NGARover(12-24-2013, 07:21 PM)anjay As I said in #76!Also, here are a couple shots showing the damage to the heads lifter cylinder.
My chain broke at 6000rpm wot on my 606.
all 24 valves was bent, camshafts broke in many pieces, all cambearings broke.
Just changed 2 valveguides, 24 valves, new camshafts and bearings. Works as a new engine after that little incident
(01-21-2014, 04:01 AM)EDH_Performance(12-26-2013, 02:30 PM)NGARover(12-24-2013, 07:21 PM)anjay As I said in #76!Also, here are a couple shots showing the damage to the heads lifter cylinder.
My chain broke at 6000rpm wot on my 606.
all 24 valves was bent, camshafts broke in many pieces, all cambearings broke.
Just changed 2 valveguides, 24 valves, new camshafts and bearings. Works as a new engine after that little incident
Good the hear. The engines going to Winmutt for helping me drop the new engine in so I'm sure it will see life again. There was the other issue of a knocking in what sounded like the rear of the head as well, really the head just needs to come off at this point. The replacement engine actually coat me less that what I had in the head gasket job to begine with and the motor has half the miles.... So should be good to go. Dropped off the oil cooler to see if local shop can get the lines off it. It and the a/c line to the condenser are really the only thing left hold me up on the test start at this point. Will be working on it this weekend.
(01-21-2014, 04:01 AM)EDH_Performance(12-26-2013, 02:30 PM)NGARover(12-24-2013, 07:21 PM)anjay As I said in #76!Also, here are a couple shots showing the damage to the heads lifter cylinder.
My chain broke at 6000rpm wot on my 606.
all 24 valves was bent, camshafts broke in many pieces, all cambearings broke.
Just changed 2 valveguides, 24 valves, new camshafts and bearings. Works as a new engine after that little incident
Good the hear. The engines going to Winmutt for helping me drop the new engine in so I'm sure it will see life again. There was the other issue of a knocking in what sounded like the rear of the head as well, really the head just needs to come off at this point. The replacement engine actually coat me less that what I had in the head gasket job to begine with and the motor has half the miles.... So should be good to go. Dropped off the oil cooler to see if local shop can get the lines off it. It and the a/c line to the condenser are really the only thing left hold me up on the test start at this point. Will be working on it this weekend.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
It's supposed to rain this weekend but only 30% on sunday. Am going to the junkyard on Sunday, a new 95 e320 came in yesterday at Pull A Part North.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(02-04-2014, 08:08 AM)winmutt It's supposed to rain this weekend but only 30% on sunday. Am going to the junkyard on Sunday, a new 95 e320 came in yesterday at Pull A Part North.
Worked on the car. Got the parts in for the drive train but didn't get to them. Soaked the oil cooler in buster for a week and tried but was still not budging. Not even with an air hammer on the bolts. So I took a cut off wheel and made a cut on each bolt. THEN used the air hammer. The top one came off fine. The bottom one seemed to, but alas, the threads are gone. Going to have to locate a local radiator rep are shop and see if they can retap it for me. Unless you know of one sitting around someplace.
While looking at the oil cooler I discovered that the mount for the front anti sway bar had sheered off right at the frame! I can't believe that during all this I had not noticed that till now. Good news is that the bracket is dirt cheap (like 26 bucks) but also that the 94 had the exact same one for free. Got it on and also used the bushing from the 94 as they where really nice. One issue though, the top bolt on the a arm that holds the bushing thats at the end of the bar broke also... Looks like I'll have to drill it out and find a bolt I can feed though, as its actually a part of the a arm.
Seems that A/C compressor is good from my car. It turns free and seems to pump the oil thats in it. The line had a lot of oil in it when I had to cut it. The one on the 94 seems to be the same unit as well, with just different hoses bolted to it... I know it works cause I ran it when I had the engine running. Going to need to have the bottom A/c hose that goes to the condenser before I run this engine.
Took another look at the drivers spring perch. I think I'm going to go ahead and run a new weld up the seam just to be safe when I swap out the springs from the 94. Still up in the air about cutting the spring. Here is a picture of the 94's stance again as it is now... Seems pretty low as it is.
Looks like snow coming in for the week so project is again on hold. I HATE not having a garage.
(02-04-2014, 08:08 AM)winmutt It's supposed to rain this weekend but only 30% on sunday. Am going to the junkyard on Sunday, a new 95 e320 came in yesterday at Pull A Part North.
Worked on the car. Got the parts in for the drive train but didn't get to them. Soaked the oil cooler in buster for a week and tried but was still not budging. Not even with an air hammer on the bolts. So I took a cut off wheel and made a cut on each bolt. THEN used the air hammer. The top one came off fine. The bottom one seemed to, but alas, the threads are gone. Going to have to locate a local radiator rep are shop and see if they can retap it for me. Unless you know of one sitting around someplace.
While looking at the oil cooler I discovered that the mount for the front anti sway bar had sheered off right at the frame! I can't believe that during all this I had not noticed that till now. Good news is that the bracket is dirt cheap (like 26 bucks) but also that the 94 had the exact same one for free. Got it on and also used the bushing from the 94 as they where really nice. One issue though, the top bolt on the a arm that holds the bushing thats at the end of the bar broke also... Looks like I'll have to drill it out and find a bolt I can feed though, as its actually a part of the a arm.
Seems that A/C compressor is good from my car. It turns free and seems to pump the oil thats in it. The line had a lot of oil in it when I had to cut it. The one on the 94 seems to be the same unit as well, with just different hoses bolted to it... I know it works cause I ran it when I had the engine running. Going to need to have the bottom A/c hose that goes to the condenser before I run this engine.
Took another look at the drivers spring perch. I think I'm going to go ahead and run a new weld up the seam just to be safe when I swap out the springs from the 94. Still up in the air about cutting the spring. Here is a picture of the 94's stance again as it is now... Seems pretty low as it is.
Looks like snow coming in for the week so project is again on hold. I HATE not having a garage.
Going any lower in the front than what you've got pictured will be cosmetic and will not help handling.
raysorenson
02-10-2014, 08:34 AM #98Yeah, it's a nasty winter here in the south for working outside.
Going any lower in the front than what you've got pictured will be cosmetic and will not help handling.
. I agree should take springs as is. Will probably be a little lower anyways because of the engine weight. Sucks about the oil cooler. Didn't you just get that off ebay? Id file a complaint.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Looks awfully green up there . I agree should take springs as is. Will probably be a little lower anyways because of the engine weight. Sucks about the oil cooler. Didn't you just get that off ebay? Id file a complaint.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(02-09-2014, 04:47 PM)NGARover(02-04-2014, 08:08 AM)winmutt It's supposed to rain this weekend but only 30% on sunday. Am going to the junkyard on Sunday, a new 95 e320 came in yesterday at Pull A Part North.
Worked on the car. Got the parts in for the drive train but didn't get to them. Soaked the oil cooler in buster for a week and tried but was still not budging. Not even with an air hammer on the bolts. So I took a cut off wheel and made a cut on each bolt. THEN used the air hammer. The top one came off fine. The bottom one seemed to, but alas, the threads are gone. Going to have to locate a local radiator rep are shop and see if they can retap it for me. Unless you know of one sitting around someplace.
While looking at the oil cooler I discovered that the mount for the front anti sway bar had sheered off right at the frame! I can't believe that during all this I had not noticed that till now. Good news is that the bracket is dirt cheap (like 26 bucks) but also that the 94 had the exact same one for free. Got it on and also used the bushing from the 94 as they where really nice. One issue though, the top bolt on the a arm that holds the bushing thats at the end of the bar broke also... Looks like I'll have to drill it out and find a bolt I can feed though, as its actually a part of the a arm.
Seems that A/C compressor is good from my car. It turns free and seems to pump the oil thats in it. The line had a lot of oil in it when I had to cut it. The one on the 94 seems to be the same unit as well, with just different hoses bolted to it... I know it works cause I ran it when I had the engine running. Going to need to have the bottom A/c hose that goes to the condenser before I run this engine.
Took another look at the drivers spring perch. I think I'm going to go ahead and run a new weld up the seam just to be safe when I swap out the springs from the 94. Still up in the air about cutting the spring. Here is a picture of the 94's stance again as it is now... Seems pretty low as it is.
Looks like snow coming in for the week so project is again on hold. I HATE not having a garage.
I have an oil cooler from my 1992 300D in good shape with lines if you need it? I'm swapping to a 605 so i wont need it
Duncansport
02-10-2014, 10:45 AM #100(02-09-2014, 04:47 PM)NGARover(02-04-2014, 08:08 AM)winmutt It's supposed to rain this weekend but only 30% on sunday. Am going to the junkyard on Sunday, a new 95 e320 came in yesterday at Pull A Part North.
Worked on the car. Got the parts in for the drive train but didn't get to them. Soaked the oil cooler in buster for a week and tried but was still not budging. Not even with an air hammer on the bolts. So I took a cut off wheel and made a cut on each bolt. THEN used the air hammer. The top one came off fine. The bottom one seemed to, but alas, the threads are gone. Going to have to locate a local radiator rep are shop and see if they can retap it for me. Unless you know of one sitting around someplace.
While looking at the oil cooler I discovered that the mount for the front anti sway bar had sheered off right at the frame! I can't believe that during all this I had not noticed that till now. Good news is that the bracket is dirt cheap (like 26 bucks) but also that the 94 had the exact same one for free. Got it on and also used the bushing from the 94 as they where really nice. One issue though, the top bolt on the a arm that holds the bushing thats at the end of the bar broke also... Looks like I'll have to drill it out and find a bolt I can feed though, as its actually a part of the a arm.
Seems that A/C compressor is good from my car. It turns free and seems to pump the oil thats in it. The line had a lot of oil in it when I had to cut it. The one on the 94 seems to be the same unit as well, with just different hoses bolted to it... I know it works cause I ran it when I had the engine running. Going to need to have the bottom A/c hose that goes to the condenser before I run this engine.
Took another look at the drivers spring perch. I think I'm going to go ahead and run a new weld up the seam just to be safe when I swap out the springs from the 94. Still up in the air about cutting the spring. Here is a picture of the 94's stance again as it is now... Seems pretty low as it is.
Looks like snow coming in for the week so project is again on hold. I HATE not having a garage.
I have an oil cooler from my 1992 300D in good shape with lines if you need it? I'm swapping to a 605 so i wont need it
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