Americans can't get enough of the 1987 300d
Americans can't get enough of the 1987 300d
Just replaced the dash. An early dash without cracks is hard to find. I bought a black one on Ebay and painted it with SEM Color Coat "graphite". It's a perfect match for the stock dark grey. The head unit is a Kenwood kiv-701.
![[Image: SANY1050_zpsa339db8f.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1050_zpsa339db8f.jpg)
Rockford Fosgate 6.75" woofers. I was going to fab some pods to go in the pocket panel but it would have been tight with a speaker that big, probably wouldn't have looked or sounded as good and would partially block access to the parking brake pedal. An added bonus is that the speaker clamps the door panel to the door, reducing noise and giving a more solid feel when you close the door.
![[Image: SANY1048_zpsa5998dae.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1048_zpsa5998dae.jpg)
I wanted speakers with grilles that didn't look like Klingon battle shields. I painted them with SEM Color Coat "medium gray". Care was taken to make sure the door panels didn't appear to be smashed in by the woofers.
![[Image: SANY1049_zps4bba7262.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1049_zps4bba7262.jpg)
Rear deck hack. I had to re-cover the C-pillar trim. It's Alcantara. I used "flex form" carpet for the deck after modding it with fiberglass.
![[Image: SANY1051_zps5c084cd1.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1051_zps5c084cd1.jpg)
8" sub. Sealed enclosure underneath. It's no small feat to seal the sub to an enclosure without making the rear deck look like it's been clamped by the subwoofer.
![[Image: SANY1052_zps87043b2f.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1052_zps87043b2f.jpg)
Battery relocate and amps. The batteries came from my FJ40 hence the weathered look. 100w RMSx4 and 300w RMSx1. These are PWM (class "D", I think) amps so they pack a lot of punch in a small package, run cool and don't use tons of current.
![[Image: SANY1053_zpse76c3664.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1053_zpse76c3664.jpg)
Battery switch, also robbed from my FJ40
![[Image: SANY1054_zps745a23c7.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/SANY1054_zps745a23c7.jpg)
raysorenson
09-04-2013, 04:46 PM #1Interior first since that's what I've been working on lately.
Just replaced the dash. An early dash without cracks is hard to find. I bought a black one on Ebay and painted it with SEM Color Coat "graphite". It's a perfect match for the stock dark grey. The head unit is a Kenwood kiv-701.
Rockford Fosgate 6.75" woofers. I was going to fab some pods to go in the pocket panel but it would have been tight with a speaker that big, probably wouldn't have looked or sounded as good and would partially block access to the parking brake pedal. An added bonus is that the speaker clamps the door panel to the door, reducing noise and giving a more solid feel when you close the door.
I wanted speakers with grilles that didn't look like Klingon battle shields. I painted them with SEM Color Coat "medium gray". Care was taken to make sure the door panels didn't appear to be smashed in by the woofers.
Rear deck hack. I had to re-cover the C-pillar trim. It's Alcantara. I used "flex form" carpet for the deck after modding it with fiberglass.
8" sub. Sealed enclosure underneath. It's no small feat to seal the sub to an enclosure without making the rear deck look like it's been clamped by the subwoofer.
Battery relocate and amps. The batteries came from my FJ40 hence the weathered look. 100w RMSx4 and 300w RMSx1. These are PWM (class "D", I think) amps so they pack a lot of punch in a small package, run cool and don't use tons of current.
Battery switch, also robbed from my FJ40
You should teach seminars to high schoolers on the benefits of matching speaker grilles.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-05-2013, 08:29 AM #2Excellent install, I love the stealth look You should teach seminars to high schoolers on the benefits of matching speaker grilles.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
mike-81-240d
09-09-2013, 12:53 AM #3Nice and clean!
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
![[Image: MercYoke_zpsec7b0fe1.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/MercYoke_zpsec7b0fe1.jpg)
It fits. The outer dust lip of the stock seal touches the flat face of the yoke and had to be trimmed off. I left it hanging on the left of the yoke so you can see what I'm talking about.
Here is where I found the yoke. The guy I talked to on the phone told me that while that part number was good, it's not a "spicer" part#. It's an aftermarket part# for a part that spicer discontinued. There are other spicer 27 spline yokes that will fit the splines, but I know that this particular yoke has been used on a Merc in the past, so that's what I went with.
raysorenson
12-21-2013, 10:59 AM #6
It fits. The outer dust lip of the stock seal touches the flat face of the yoke and had to be trimmed off. I left it hanging on the left of the yoke so you can see what I'm talking about.
Here is where I found the yoke. The guy I talked to on the phone told me that while that part number was good, it's not a "spicer" part#. It's an aftermarket part# for a part that spicer discontinued. There are other spicer 27 spline yokes that will fit the splines, but I know that this particular yoke has been used on a Merc in the past, so that's what I went with.
raysorenson
12-23-2013, 06:27 PM #7Pressing the Hedgehog Motorsports poly bushings in a rear link.
The low coolant light started coming on about once a month a while back. I added about a pint of coolant each time to top off the reservoir but never found a leak or smelled coolant. The temp gauge never did anything unusual. Then one day while driving *very* fast to work I looked at the temp gauge and it was almost pegged. I pulled over on the side of the interstate immediately. Checked to see if the heater was working and it was not. The reservoir was full. I sat there a while starting the engine after a few minutes to check for a working heater. Once the heater started working, the gauge went to normal. I drove to work and did a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system and it failed with flying colors. I'm sort of shocked. I knew the #14 head was prone to cracking but I always suspected driver error as well. Some dumbass driving around with a stuck thermostat or low coolant. I had neither. Yes, the low coolant light came on, but there was always coolant in the reservoir and , as I said, it never once ran hot.
Used #20 head being prepped for a quick and dirty swap. The gasket surface was cleaned with 2000 grit sandpaper and a flat block of steel. Flat anything would work. Like glass. I was surprised to see how the head had deformation radiating from the prechamber bore. The sandpaper took off the high spots around the prechambers, but you can still see the low spots. The rusty blotches you see are pitting from cooling system issues. I didn't take enough metal off to fix that and I don't think it's necessary.
![[Image: 05D3566F-5799-400C-AE3E-45AAEDF20B81_zpsdw6ftslm.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/05D3566F-5799-400C-AE3E-45AAEDF20B81_zpsdw6ftslm.jpg)
raysorenson
01-08-2014, 10:33 PM #8I'm 90% sure my #14 head is cracked.
The low coolant light started coming on about once a month a while back. I added about a pint of coolant each time to top off the reservoir but never found a leak or smelled coolant. The temp gauge never did anything unusual. Then one day while driving *very* fast to work I looked at the temp gauge and it was almost pegged. I pulled over on the side of the interstate immediately. Checked to see if the heater was working and it was not. The reservoir was full. I sat there a while starting the engine after a few minutes to check for a working heater. Once the heater started working, the gauge went to normal. I drove to work and did a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system and it failed with flying colors. I'm sort of shocked. I knew the #14 head was prone to cracking but I always suspected driver error as well. Some dumbass driving around with a stuck thermostat or low coolant. I had neither. Yes, the low coolant light came on, but there was always coolant in the reservoir and , as I said, it never once ran hot.
Used #20 head being prepped for a quick and dirty swap. The gasket surface was cleaned with 2000 grit sandpaper and a flat block of steel. Flat anything would work. Like glass. I was surprised to see how the head had deformation radiating from the prechamber bore. The sandpaper took off the high spots around the prechambers, but you can still see the low spots. The rusty blotches you see are pitting from cooling system issues. I didn't take enough metal off to fix that and I don't think it's necessary.
My driveshaft was delivered the other day. http://www.actionmachineinc.com/ made it for me and turned my end yokes to fit my oil seals.
To sum up, I had 2 1310 series end yokes turned down to 40mm O.D. to fit inside the stock oil seals for the transmission and diff. I needed to use shims between the end yoke and the output shaft bearing to keep the yoke face from contacting the oil seal. The slip yoke is integrated into the rear half of the driveshaft. Luckily, the I.D. of the Mercedes center support bearing is 30mm which is a common size for 1310 series driveshaft parts. The ends of the pinion gear and the output shaft that stick into the flex joint had to be cut off because the U-joints now occupy that space. This mod cannot be undone.
Since the output shaft of the trans cannot be used with a slip yoke, a one piece D.S. is not viable. Aluminum is not possible for a multi-piece D.S.. 2 piece steel is what you get.
![[Image: 24636C13-311F-4D30-8779-F59764BC39DC_zpslwjeb0xi.jpg]](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q316/Ochlockonee/Car%20stuff/24636C13-311F-4D30-8779-F59764BC39DC_zpslwjeb0xi.jpg)
Replacing all the rubber in the subframe, suspension, shifter, diff mounts and driveshaft joints with stiffer urethane, hard plastic or just plain metal, and adding harsh dampers with stiff springs is now adding up to a lot of noise, vibration and feedback. It's not soothing or relaxing like a nice stock W124. It begs you to push it harder. Whenever I'm forced to place a loose object in the trunk, seats or floor, I'm struck by a pang of remorse because I have to moderate my driving.
Next: Clutch and flywheel, intercooler, turbo/header/exhaust and finally pump.
raysorenson
02-28-2014, 08:54 AM #9#20 head installed and I upgraded to #314 injector nozzles. It runs better than ever.
My driveshaft was delivered the other day. http://www.actionmachineinc.com/ made it for me and turned my end yokes to fit my oil seals.
To sum up, I had 2 1310 series end yokes turned down to 40mm O.D. to fit inside the stock oil seals for the transmission and diff. I needed to use shims between the end yoke and the output shaft bearing to keep the yoke face from contacting the oil seal. The slip yoke is integrated into the rear half of the driveshaft. Luckily, the I.D. of the Mercedes center support bearing is 30mm which is a common size for 1310 series driveshaft parts. The ends of the pinion gear and the output shaft that stick into the flex joint had to be cut off because the U-joints now occupy that space. This mod cannot be undone.
Since the output shaft of the trans cannot be used with a slip yoke, a one piece D.S. is not viable. Aluminum is not possible for a multi-piece D.S.. 2 piece steel is what you get.
Replacing all the rubber in the subframe, suspension, shifter, diff mounts and driveshaft joints with stiffer urethane, hard plastic or just plain metal, and adding harsh dampers with stiff springs is now adding up to a lot of noise, vibration and feedback. It's not soothing or relaxing like a nice stock W124. It begs you to push it harder. Whenever I'm forced to place a loose object in the trunk, seats or floor, I'm struck by a pang of remorse because I have to moderate my driving.
Next: Clutch and flywheel, intercooler, turbo/header/exhaust and finally pump.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
How are you liking AKE's poly bushings? How much was the set delivered? I just replaced my torque link with lemforder 3 months ago and I can feel the rear end twsting again.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
197 link bushings
213 all 4 subframe
102 shipping
26 paypal
He's got pricing in that long thread in group buy. I think on page 61;-)
With my relatively high rear spring rate compared to the front, my rear axle bears more cornering force than most setups. This resulted in aggravated slop in the rear. All the rear links were lemforder replacements with less than a year of use. Now my rear axle plays nice and behaves predictably.
Slight increase in NVH but not much. No racecar noises.
I went with race density on the links and street density on the subframe. I would do all race if I could do it again. I think the difference is only shore 70a to 90a.
No special tools required to install the SF bushings which is nice.
It's a must do mod if you like putting your power to the ground.
raysorenson
03-06-2014, 01:11 PM #11I didn't buy any LCA bushings since I had K-macs in there but:
197 link bushings
213 all 4 subframe
102 shipping
26 paypal
He's got pricing in that long thread in group buy. I think on page 61;-)
With my relatively high rear spring rate compared to the front, my rear axle bears more cornering force than most setups. This resulted in aggravated slop in the rear. All the rear links were lemforder replacements with less than a year of use. Now my rear axle plays nice and behaves predictably.
Slight increase in NVH but not much. No racecar noises.
I went with race density on the links and street density on the subframe. I would do all race if I could do it again. I think the difference is only shore 70a to 90a.
No special tools required to install the SF bushings which is nice.
It's a must do mod if you like putting your power to the ground.
First job was to machine my old 190e flywheel to fit a Sachs 765 pressure plate. I just faced the whole thing with a 3/4" end mill. Should be good enough. I took it to get balanced with the pressure plate and they said they didn't have to do anything to it!
The goods: Sachs 765 has a 273mm BCD (or PCD) bolt and dowel circle. The dowels are 6mm and are spaced 6.5 degrees from the bolt holes. Better weld the starter ring to the flywheel when you this, but wait until after you drill.
![[Image: B1046F25-8F12-4D75-A511-4390E32068FC_zps...g~original]](http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah115/stngry78/B1046F25-8F12-4D75-A511-4390E32068FC_zpsvg9u5j6t.jpg~original)
raysorenson
06-29-2015, 07:12 PM #12I got a "High torque Mini-mill" from littlemachineshop and a rotary table. I love it! Such a nice little mill.
First job was to machine my old 190e flywheel to fit a Sachs 765 pressure plate. I just faced the whole thing with a 3/4" end mill. Should be good enough. I took it to get balanced with the pressure plate and they said they didn't have to do anything to it!
The goods: Sachs 765 has a 273mm BCD (or PCD) bolt and dowel circle. The dowels are 6mm and are spaced 6.5 degrees from the bolt holes. Better weld the starter ring to the flywheel when you this, but wait until after you drill.
(06-29-2015, 07:27 PM)raysorenson Thanks Fred, of F-Tune for help with step height info :-)
Glad to help Ray
Great looking car you have there.
F-tune Performance
![[Image: V-band_om606.jpg]](http://www.f-tune.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/V-band_om606.jpg)
![[Image: GTX3582R.jpg]](http://www.f-tune.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/GTX3582R.jpg)
![[Image: gs6-53dz_gearbox.jpg]](http://www.f-tune.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/gs6-53dz_gearbox.jpg)
I can help you out with all your manual transmission, clutch, flywheel, intake and exhaust manifold issues.
(06-29-2015, 07:27 PM)raysorenson Thanks Fred, of F-Tune for help with step height info :-)
Glad to help Ray
Great looking car you have there.
F-tune Performance
I can help you out with all your manual transmission, clutch, flywheel, intake and exhaust manifold issues.
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