How the hell have people managed to squeeze an om606 into a w201?!?
How the hell have people managed to squeeze an om606 into a w201?!?
(12-28-2013, 11:09 AM)hooblah Its near enough impossible! Ive been trying all afternoon and the bloody arms just dont want to line up with the mounts! Theyre so close yet so far off...
BTW im using om606 arms with om602 mounts.
crowbar? and perhaps something to hammer it down?
eeh you will get there, if people can fit an om606 in a w114, and a w123, you could fit that om606
what is to tight? gearbox tunnel? radiator? with?
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
12-28-2013, 05:41 PM #2(12-28-2013, 11:09 AM)hooblah Its near enough impossible! Ive been trying all afternoon and the bloody arms just dont want to line up with the mounts! Theyre so close yet so far off...
BTW im using om606 arms with om602 mounts.
crowbar? and perhaps something to hammer it down?
eeh you will get there, if people can fit an om606 in a w114, and a w123, you could fit that om606
what is to tight? gearbox tunnel? radiator? with?
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
It doesnt help that theres no hook or eye on the block to pass a rope through or attach a hook to, and the fact that the engine is tilted means it wants to sit straight when I try and lift it. I eventually gave up when it started to get dark. Tomorrow i'll get one of my mates to give me a hand and we'll see how it goes.
It's almost right up against the bulkhead, and it just needs shoving back a tiny bit more. It looks like it will fit but I cant get it to sit at the angle right grrr. I tried everything I could think of but it just didnt want to play ball.
It doesnt help that theres no hook or eye on the block to pass a rope through or attach a hook to, and the fact that the engine is tilted means it wants to sit straight when I try and lift it. I eventually gave up when it started to get dark. Tomorrow i'll get one of my mates to give me a hand and we'll see how it goes.
I hear you may have to relieve the firewall a few mm with a lump hammer no bother though.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
So I got some hockey pucks and replaced the mounts with them. The height was ok, but now the tunnel's fouling on the gearbox where the starter motor goes in! Now ive got to remove the engine again and either bash the fuck out of the engine bay or cut everything out and get welding... AAAAAAAARRRGH!
I finally managed to have a go on it this weekend, after 2 months of it pissing down!
So I got some hockey pucks and replaced the mounts with them. The height was ok, but now the tunnel's fouling on the gearbox where the starter motor goes in! Now ive got to remove the engine again and either bash the fuck out of the engine bay or cut everything out and get welding... AAAAAAAARRRGH!
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
02-24-2014, 05:09 AM #6get the engine further to the front and replace the fan with electric fans?
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
(02-24-2014, 05:09 AM)swampmonkey get the engine further to the front and replace the fan with electric fans?A good idea, there is loads (about 2") of room to be had removing the viscous fan and it will help with the RHD DP issue - if you have one, which i suspect you have.
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
02-24-2014, 05:33 AM #7(02-24-2014, 05:09 AM)swampmonkey get the engine further to the front and replace the fan with electric fans?A good idea, there is loads (about 2") of room to be had removing the viscous fan and it will help with the RHD DP issue - if you have one, which i suspect you have.
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
(02-24-2014, 05:33 AM)maxypriest(02-24-2014, 05:09 AM)swampmonkey get the engine further to the front and replace the fan with electric fans?A good idea, there is loads (about 2") of room to be had removing the viscous fan and it will help with the RHD DP issue - if you have one, which i suspect you have.
im not the one building this w201, but if it doesnt mean he would need to fabricate new enginemounts, it seems like a lot easier solution than welding and modifying the chassi....
the w123 with om606 was solved that way, the back almost touches the body, and the front sits very tight towards the radiator, with electric fans that just fits between...
the mechanical fan is a large one, and saves a lot of space when removed.
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
02-24-2014, 05:54 AM #8(02-24-2014, 05:33 AM)maxypriest(02-24-2014, 05:09 AM)swampmonkey get the engine further to the front and replace the fan with electric fans?A good idea, there is loads (about 2") of room to be had removing the viscous fan and it will help with the RHD DP issue - if you have one, which i suspect you have.
im not the one building this w201, but if it doesnt mean he would need to fabricate new enginemounts, it seems like a lot easier solution than welding and modifying the chassi....
the w123 with om606 was solved that way, the back almost touches the body, and the front sits very tight towards the radiator, with electric fans that just fits between...
the mechanical fan is a large one, and saves a lot of space when removed.
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
Ive already removed the viscous fan and have an electric one ready to go in, I really dont think I'll have 2" to play with. Also, the power steering pump pulley's pretty close to the radiator and slam panel as it is.
I'd rather not move the engine further forward as it will upset the balance of the car even more. And dont forget that I need to get an intercooler in front of the radiator so I need the space!
Ive already removed the viscous fan and have an electric one ready to go in, I really dont think I'll have 2" to play with. Also, the power steering pump pulley's pretty close to the radiator and slam panel as it is.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
So whats the issue? The back face of the cylinder head / block is flush with the face of the firewall requiring masaging with a lump hammer, and the transmission tunnel is too small to acomodate th e606 starter?
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
02-26-2014, 10:34 AM #15al w201 and om606 engine is supposed to have the starter at the same place... older diesels in w123 and w126 aswell as 280E gasser in the w123 is on the opposite side thou...
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
http://www.per4m.lt/forum/download/file.php?id=2986
http://www.per4m.lt/forum/download/file.php?id=2994
http://www.per4m.lt/forum/download/file.php?id=2993
http://www.per4m.lt/forum/download/file.php?id=3052
It doesnt matter if the starter is on the left or on the right, it's still going to foul on the tunnel. If I don't modify the tunnel there's only 2 ways I'll achieve the clearance I need; move the engine forward (not likely), or move the engine further down, but in doing so I will have to modify the sump as it will contact the cross member or go for a dry sump system.
If the weather's any good this weekend ill take a closer look and see just how much clearance I've got.
What difference will m103 mounts make?
It doesnt matter if the starter is on the left or on the right, it's still going to foul on the tunnel. If I don't modify the tunnel there's only 2 ways I'll achieve the clearance I need; move the engine forward (not likely), or move the engine further down, but in doing so I will have to modify the sump as it will contact the cross member or go for a dry sump system.
If the weather's any good this weekend ill take a closer look and see just how much clearance I've got.
Maybe the 6 speed box has a bigger starter lump on the side than the 'normal' 5 speed or auto box? Check that first. The starter will be the same so if that is the case removing a section of the lump might give enough clearance.
[/quotjust
interested to know your engine / box combination
yorkshire1
02-27-2014, 04:41 AM #19[quote='Druk' pid='61377' dateline='1393492286']
Maybe the 6 speed box has a bigger starter lump on the side than the 'normal' 5 speed or auto box? Check that first. The starter will be the same so if that is the case removing a section of the lump might give enough clearance.
[/quotjust
interested to know your engine / box combination
(02-27-2014, 04:11 AM)Druk Maybe the 6 speed box has a bigger starter lump on the side than the 'normal' 5 speed or auto box? Check that first. The starter will be the same so if that is the case removing a section of the lump might give enough clearance.
Scrub this advice. Just looked at 6 speed boxes on ebay and they're the same housing as 5 speed.
(02-27-2014, 04:11 AM)Druk Maybe the 6 speed box has a bigger starter lump on the side than the 'normal' 5 speed or auto box? Check that first. The starter will be the same so if that is the case removing a section of the lump might give enough clearance.
Scrub this advice. Just looked at 6 speed boxes on ebay and they're the same housing as 5 speed.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
02-27-2014, 10:35 AM #21Is the w201 the 6 cylinder version? I think the 6 cylinders had more room different rad support possibly to cram the m103 in there. I second trying the w201 m103 motor mount arms.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Ive got the 2.6 rad and slam panel. The engine will fit if it comes forward but I wont know how much clearance I have until this weekend.
Has anyone got a 2.6 190e where they can measure how much clearance they have between the rad and bumper?
Thanks for the suggestions so far guys!
Ive got the 2.6 rad and slam panel. The engine will fit if it comes forward but I wont know how much clearance I have until this weekend.
Has anyone got a 2.6 190e where they can measure how much clearance they have between the rad and bumper?
(02-27-2014, 01:56 PM)hooblah Thanks for the suggestions so far guys!
Ive got the 2.6 rad and slam panel. The engine will fit if it comes forward but I wont know how much clearance I have until this weekend.
Has anyone got a 2.6 190e where they can measure how much clearance they have between the rad and bumper?
BIG on the 190 forum has fitted the 2.6 engine hoobs
Stevo-trendy
02-27-2014, 02:20 PM #23(02-27-2014, 01:56 PM)hooblah Thanks for the suggestions so far guys!
Ive got the 2.6 rad and slam panel. The engine will fit if it comes forward but I wont know how much clearance I have until this weekend.
Has anyone got a 2.6 190e where they can measure how much clearance they have between the rad and bumper?
BIG on the 190 forum has fitted the 2.6 engine hoobs
- Radiator was moved forward, i have used several different of radiators, ended up with an bmw e46 radiator as that was the biggest i could get in there. Custom mounting of the radiator
Regards intercooler, it was just a universal 3" thick core with 3" endsReason I ask is because i'm having trouble getting my engine in. Im using 602 arms but the gearbox is interfering with the tunnel and not allowing the engine to go further back.
- I used 601 arm, but 602 is the same! You wants to to wild with an hammer on the crossbeam that is just below your oilpan...You can easily get the motor 4-6 cm lower using custom enginemounts (i used custom pads)
I had to cut some in the tunel to get it fit perfect
Do you have the power steering connected? I didnt notice the pump, unless you've moved it? I can see this causing a problem with clearance, which is why you may have gotten rid of it altogether.
- My steering pump is a bmw pump mounted under the intake
EDH_Performance
02-28-2014, 10:23 PM #25Can I ask what mounts and arms you're using, or what you were originally using to squeeze the 606 in? And what radiator are you using? And what's the depth of the intercooler?
- Radiator was moved forward, i have used several different of radiators, ended up with an bmw e46 radiator as that was the biggest i could get in there. Custom mounting of the radiator Regards intercooler, it was just a universal 3" thick core with 3" ends
Reason I ask is because i'm having trouble getting my engine in. Im using 602 arms but the gearbox is interfering with the tunnel and not allowing the engine to go further back.
- I used 601 arm, but 602 is the same! You wants to to wild with an hammer on the crossbeam that is just below your oilpan...You can easily get the motor 4-6 cm lower using custom enginemounts (i used custom pads)
I had to cut some in the tunel to get it fit perfect
Do you have the power steering connected? I didnt notice the pump, unless you've moved it? I can see this causing a problem with clearance, which is why you may have gotten rid of it altogether.
- My steering pump is a bmw pump mounted under the intake
Ive just remembered im using 606 arms, not 602!
As the engine currently sits, there is room for the 2.6 rad and a slimline fan but the arms are still not lining up with the mounts.
My plan is to cut the cross member out and replace it with some box section. Hopefully this will give me additonal clearance to drop the engine down a bit more. Its sitting on 2 hockey pucks and I reckon it will be sitting at the perfect height if I take one out.
If this doesnt work and I cant get the mounts to line up then ill have to start hacking away at the firewall and tunnel. Wish me luck...
Thanks for the reply, that helps a lot! Do you have any pics of what you did to the cross member and tunnel?
Ive just remembered im using 606 arms, not 602!
As the engine currently sits, there is room for the 2.6 rad and a slimline fan but the arms are still not lining up with the mounts.
My plan is to cut the cross member out and replace it with some box section. Hopefully this will give me additonal clearance to drop the engine down a bit more. Its sitting on 2 hockey pucks and I reckon it will be sitting at the perfect height if I take one out.
If this doesnt work and I cant get the mounts to line up then ill have to start hacking away at the firewall and tunnel. Wish me luck...
The swaybar will also be in the way, so that also have to be lowered
Look in my thread, might be something of interest there
EDH_Performance
03-02-2014, 01:52 AM #27Better to just make it lower using a hammer...
The swaybar will also be in the way, so that also have to be lowered
Look in my thread, might be something of interest there
Ive got the engine out today. tomorrow i'll be cutting the cross member. Another problem ive come up against is the firewall. I'll most likely need to cut/bash the crap out of it, but the heater blower motor is in the way. Can I replace it for a smaller one? I dont want to get rid of it completely as it will be a daily. Any other solutions?
what enginemounts did you end up with, what gearbox, what had to be done ?
give us a nice list 
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
03-11-2014, 05:50 PM #30post pictures of the frankenfit
what enginemounts did you end up with, what gearbox, what had to be done ? give us a nice list
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
Im using 606 arms with hockey pucks to get the right height. I originally started off with 3 pucks but it was too high and wouldnt allow the bonnet to close properly. 2 pucks was much better but this changed the distance between the bolt holes on the mounts and now it wont line up with the holes on the crossmember. The solution is to modify the arms so I can use 602 mounts or custom polyurethane mounts.
Im using a 617.606 gearbox - all info is in my build thread.
Ive cut my crossmember today, i'll eventually brace it with box section. The engine is now at the correct height but the sump's a little too low. Im going to have to cut n shut it so it's no lower than the crossmember, and maybe run a dry sump system if I have to.
Next on the list is to cut the tunnel to make it wider and taller. Im heading towards the point of no return and its quite scary. I barely know what im doing or what im going to do! Sure enough i'll figure something out once I get stuck in, but its the only solution left.
Pics coming soon, keep an eye on my build thread!
Im using 606 arms with hockey pucks to get the right height. I originally started off with 3 pucks but it was too high and wouldnt allow the bonnet to close properly. 2 pucks was much better but this changed the distance between the bolt holes on the mounts and now it wont line up with the holes on the crossmember. The solution is to modify the arms so I can use 602 mounts or custom polyurethane mounts.
Im using a 617.606 gearbox - all info is in my build thread.
Ive cut my crossmember today, i'll eventually brace it with box section. The engine is now at the correct height but the sump's a little too low. Im going to have to cut n shut it so it's no lower than the crossmember, and maybe run a dry sump system if I have to.
Next on the list is to cut the tunnel to make it wider and taller. Im heading towards the point of no return and its quite scary. I barely know what im doing or what im going to do! Sure enough i'll figure something out once I get stuck in, but its the only solution left.
(03-11-2014, 06:58 PM)hooblah Pics coming soon, keep an eye on my build thread!
Im using 606 arms with hockey pucks to get the right height. I originally started off with 3 pucks but it was too high and wouldnt allow the bonnet to close properly. 2 pucks was much better but this changed the distance between the bolt holes on the mounts and now it wont line up with the holes on the crossmember. The solution is to modify the arms so I can use 602 mounts or custom polyurethane mounts.
Im using a 617.606 gearbox - all info is in my build thread.
Ive cut my crossmember today, i'll eventually brace it with box section. The engine is now at the correct height but the sump's a little too low. Im going to have to cut n shut it so it's no lower than the crossmember, and maybe run a dry sump system if I have to.
Next on the list is to cut the tunnel to make it wider and taller. Im heading towards the point of no return and its quite scary. I barely know what im doing or what im going to do! Sure enough i'll figure something out once I get stuck in, but its the only solution left.
No cuting is needed If you had fitted arms And mounts from w124 om 103 104 606
Benzgreen
06-13-2015, 01:25 AM #32(03-11-2014, 06:58 PM)hooblah Pics coming soon, keep an eye on my build thread!
Im using 606 arms with hockey pucks to get the right height. I originally started off with 3 pucks but it was too high and wouldnt allow the bonnet to close properly. 2 pucks was much better but this changed the distance between the bolt holes on the mounts and now it wont line up with the holes on the crossmember. The solution is to modify the arms so I can use 602 mounts or custom polyurethane mounts.
Im using a 617.606 gearbox - all info is in my build thread.
Ive cut my crossmember today, i'll eventually brace it with box section. The engine is now at the correct height but the sump's a little too low. Im going to have to cut n shut it so it's no lower than the crossmember, and maybe run a dry sump system if I have to.
Next on the list is to cut the tunnel to make it wider and taller. Im heading towards the point of no return and its quite scary. I barely know what im doing or what im going to do! Sure enough i'll figure something out once I get stuck in, but its the only solution left.
No cuting is needed If you had fitted arms And mounts from w124 om 103 104 606
Has anyone tried using the 190E 2.6 arms as well? My W201 has the M103 in it, though I am not sure if there are any differences between the widths of the blocks and mounting points for the arms between the gasoline and diesel motors.
Not sure which mounting arms these are, possibly the W124 606, but this fellow seems to have managed to fit everything without altering the firewall or crossmember. I like how the motor looks almost stock in there.
![[Image: IMG_2420.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/volvoturbopower/W201/IMG_2420.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_2421.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/volvoturbopower/W201/IMG_2421.jpg)
Irony.cc
Good to know. In the near future I am also going to be putting a 606 into a W201 and I have been curious which mounts would be best to use (602, 603, 606, 103, etc.).
Has anyone tried using the 190E 2.6 arms as well? My W201 has the M103 in it, though I am not sure if there are any differences between the widths of the blocks and mounting points for the arms between the gasoline and diesel motors.
Not sure which mounting arms these are, possibly the W124 606, but this fellow seems to have managed to fit everything without altering the firewall or crossmember. I like how the motor looks almost stock in there.
Irony.cc
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
Original 2.6 (and 2.5 Turbo too, IIRC) has removable slam panel and different radiator support. A Turbo or 2.6 shell would be the best starting point to fit a straight six, IMHO the firewall is also a bit different on these.It's all stupidly tight, even with the 2.6l gasser engine... And very front heavy, if I might add. A 5-cylinder is the better choice for a 201.
See here: http://mercedes-190.co.uk/single/?p=8451339&t=6725069
DiseaselWeasel
06-14-2015, 03:28 AM #35That's where it is in the 190E 2.6 Original 2.6 (and 2.5 Turbo too, IIRC) has removable slam panel and different radiator support. A Turbo or 2.6 shell would be the best starting point to fit a straight six, IMHO the firewall is also a bit different on these.
It's all stupidly tight, even with the 2.6l gasser engine... And very front heavy, if I might add. A 5-cylinder is the better choice for a 201.
See here: http://mercedes-190.co.uk/single/?p=8451339&t=6725069
(06-13-2015, 11:22 PM)tjts1 OM606 non turbo swap? Odd choice. It looks like that radiator has been shoved forward from underneath the radiator support into the space normally occupied by the AC condensor.That car has a turbo and supercharger on it now, I believe. I messaged the owner and he said it started out with an OM601. He used the original 601 motor mounts and apparently has no trouble with firewall clearance. The radiator support is modified because he chose to use the original 601 radiator, but a 2.6 or 2.5 turbo radiators should fit without issues, though the 2.6 one would need a crossover pipe. Apparently he also needed to lower the swaybar. I supposed that depends on how high you have the engine sitting. I do not use sway bars so that will not be an issue.
The interesting thing about the NA OM606 is that the exhaust manifolds look as if they could bolt directly to the 2.6 exhaust.
Irony.cc
(06-13-2015, 11:22 PM)tjts1 OM606 non turbo swap? Odd choice. It looks like that radiator has been shoved forward from underneath the radiator support into the space normally occupied by the AC condensor.That car has a turbo and supercharger on it now, I believe. I messaged the owner and he said it started out with an OM601. He used the original 601 motor mounts and apparently has no trouble with firewall clearance. The radiator support is modified because he chose to use the original 601 radiator, but a 2.6 or 2.5 turbo radiators should fit without issues, though the 2.6 one would need a crossover pipe. Apparently he also needed to lower the swaybar. I supposed that depends on how high you have the engine sitting. I do not use sway bars so that will not be an issue.
The interesting thing about the NA OM606 is that the exhaust manifolds look as if they could bolt directly to the 2.6 exhaust.
Irony.cc
So far, I know of these variations:
-601 part number arms, same arms used on the OM602 W201 and W124, these place the motor forward the most
-603 part number arms, found in W124 with OM603, OM606, M103, and M104, pushing the motor back the most
-103 arms, from M103 W201, they sit somewhere in between the 601 and 603 arms
This is all just judging from pictures so far. I have not had a chance to compare them in person.
Do the arms that come on the OM606 in the W210 or any arms from the W202 or other chassis align with the motor mounts on the W201/W124 crossmember, or are they spaced/angled differently?
Irony.cc
It would be great to have a comparison of all the arms that fit on the engine.
So far, I know of these variations:
-601 part number arms, same arms used on the OM602 W201 and W124, these place the motor forward the most
-603 part number arms, found in W124 with OM603, OM606, M103, and M104, pushing the motor back the most
-103 arms, from M103 W201, they sit somewhere in between the 601 and 603 arms
This is all just judging from pictures so far. I have not had a chance to compare them in person.
Do the arms that come on the OM606 in the W210 or any arms from the W202 or other chassis align with the motor mounts on the W201/W124 crossmember, or are they spaced/angled differently?
Irony.cc
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
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