Purple turbo 240D
Purple turbo 240D
Also I need the center piece of the euro three piece bumper. Anyone have it? I don't really want to buy the whole set just for the front bumper.
Purplecomputer
01-30-2014, 12:01 PM #451Any recommendations on repainting the fender? Was planning on doing it myself. What's the best way to strip the paint? Should I use some sort of primer?
Also I need the center piece of the euro three piece bumper. Anyone have it? I don't really want to buy the whole set just for the front bumper.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
01-30-2014, 12:53 PM #452Sand primer and paint, you shouldn't need to strip it
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
or MAACO I have striped my car down myself remove all moldings handles lock cylinders and lights grills bumpers and prep sanded and done my own body work and had a MAACO paint job for $250. If you stay away from there metallic paints there solid colors are pretty decent and hold up well. I advise sticking with a close to original color so you don't have to worry about door jambs and such. They just spray it so it only looks as good as your prep work and any scratches or nicks will show through there paint so send some time prepping for it. I had my car in primer and removed every last piece of trim I could. They will do some masking but you get what you pay for for $250. I did this with my daily driver. and had the car back and painted 3 days later. spent a weekend installing every thing I removed and it looked like a new car.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-31-2014, 11:08 AM #453Looks great some NAPA stores can electronically match your original paint color with a special camera and mix you up a pint. An average body shop would probably charge 200-300 to paint just the fender for you paint and all.
or MAACO I have striped my car down myself remove all moldings handles lock cylinders and lights grills bumpers and prep sanded and done my own body work and had a MAACO paint job for $250. If you stay away from there metallic paints there solid colors are pretty decent and hold up well. I advise sticking with a close to original color so you don't have to worry about door jambs and such. They just spray it so it only looks as good as your prep work and any scratches or nicks will show through there paint so send some time prepping for it. I had my car in primer and removed every last piece of trim I could. They will do some masking but you get what you pay for for $250. I did this with my daily driver. and had the car back and painted 3 days later. spent a weekend installing every thing I removed and it looked like a new car.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
01-31-2014, 01:10 PM #454If I recall correctly, Maaco can get you better paint if you pay extra
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
they should have me on file, I think ill do that. Any recommendations on air guns? I was thinking about being cheap and getting one at HF
Purplecomputer
01-31-2014, 04:42 PM #455Actually, i think there is a little plaque underneath the hood that has the color code to the car. I went to a shop near me that sells for auto body and they mixed me an exact match in spray can form for about $25 dollar. They said they could do the paint for air guns too.
they should have me on file, I think ill do that. Any recommendations on air guns? I was thinking about being cheap and getting one at HF
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Do not make fun of that $12 HF spray gun. It's purple like purple computer ... It can spray some paint, and dye, et cet. I am very very impressed. Get your 25% off coupon ready.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(01-31-2014, 04:53 PM)Greazzer Do not make fun of that $12 HF spray gun. It's purple like purple computer ... It can spray some paint, and dye, et cet. I am very very impressed. Get your 25% off coupon ready.
Just looked up the gun. Everyone says how great it is but there is a few mods you should do first. If I get paid tonight I might pick it up.
Depending on how well I paint the fender, I might do the whole car
Purplecomputer
01-31-2014, 06:36 PM #457(01-31-2014, 04:53 PM)Greazzer Do not make fun of that $12 HF spray gun. It's purple like purple computer ... It can spray some paint, and dye, et cet. I am very very impressed. Get your 25% off coupon ready.
Just looked up the gun. Everyone says how great it is but there is a few mods you should do first. If I get paid tonight I might pick it up.
Depending on how well I paint the fender, I might do the whole car
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Those mods are nothing more cleaning it out and replacing a few washers. There is some junk in it from the factory and replacing the crappy washers/bushings with some decent ones. About 30 minutes of tinkering and $5 bucks for some seals and washers. But overall, I am really impressed with that cheapo gun.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(01-31-2014, 07:45 PM)Greazzer Those mods are nothing more cleaning it out and replacing a few washers. There is some junk in it from the factory and replacing the crappy washers/bushings with some decent ones. About 30 minutes of tinkering and $5 bucks for some seals and washers. But overall, I am really impressed with that cheapo gun.
Well I didnt get paid today but I am working a boat load of hours so I know where Ill be spending my left over money after bills!
Good to know, is there some specific set of washers I should get?
Purplecomputer
01-31-2014, 09:14 PM #459(01-31-2014, 07:45 PM)Greazzer Those mods are nothing more cleaning it out and replacing a few washers. There is some junk in it from the factory and replacing the crappy washers/bushings with some decent ones. About 30 minutes of tinkering and $5 bucks for some seals and washers. But overall, I am really impressed with that cheapo gun.
Well I didnt get paid today but I am working a boat load of hours so I know where Ill be spending my left over money after bills!
Good to know, is there some specific set of washers I should get?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
There's a YouTube video out there where a guy films an incredibly long winded narrative, e.g., 40 minutes or so, and he covers it in painstaking detail. I am thinking they are nothing but viton seals, so grainger or even Lowes, HD, or Ace might have them.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(02-01-2014, 06:22 AM)Greazzer There's a YouTube video out there where a guy films an incredibly long winded narrative, e.g., 40 minutes or so, and he covers it in painstaking detail. I am thinking they are nothing but viton seals, so grainger or even Lowes, HD, or Ace might have them.
Found the video, from what I understand there are two versions, the $12 one and the $30 one. Apparently the $30 one is better built but also needs to be cleaned and the seals last only a tad bit longer but it sprays better
Purplecomputer
02-01-2014, 11:22 AM #461(02-01-2014, 06:22 AM)Greazzer There's a YouTube video out there where a guy films an incredibly long winded narrative, e.g., 40 minutes or so, and he covers it in painstaking detail. I am thinking they are nothing but viton seals, so grainger or even Lowes, HD, or Ace might have them.
Found the video, from what I understand there are two versions, the $12 one and the $30 one. Apparently the $30 one is better built but also needs to be cleaned and the seals last only a tad bit longer but it sprays better
also im gonna need some new hardware for the front suspension.
Purplecomputer
02-05-2014, 05:31 PM #462Bilstein HD's? the rear shocks pissed out all the oil when I was working in the back. Might as well replace them.
also im gonna need some new hardware for the front suspension.
This thing will be back on the road.
Purplecomputer
02-17-2014, 02:27 PM #463Got the car insured last night. Going to register it tomorrow.
This thing will be back on the road.
First night I forgot to tighten the lug nuts on one of the tires. Good thing It didn't fly off!
its at the mechanic now getting an exhaust and hes going to take a stab at straighten out the cars front end and bumper for me.
I just cant do everything myself.
Purplecomputer
02-21-2014, 12:22 PM #464Been driving it around the past few days.
First night I forgot to tighten the lug nuts on one of the tires. Good thing It didn't fly off!
its at the mechanic now getting an exhaust and hes going to take a stab at straighten out the cars front end and bumper for me.
I just cant do everything myself.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-21-2014, 12:34 PM #465Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-21-2014, 12:34 PM)Simpler=Better Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Thats going to be my next project but Ill probably bring it to this guy. Super nice, I do all his computer work so he cuts me a break.
I would have done more harm then good trying to fix this stuff.
Purplecomputer
02-21-2014, 01:34 PM #466(02-21-2014, 12:34 PM)Simpler=Better Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Thats going to be my next project but Ill probably bring it to this guy. Super nice, I do all his computer work so he cuts me a break.
I would have done more harm then good trying to fix this stuff.
I got the exhaust installed. I only went with one muffler as opossed to the two the car came with. Much quieter but not as quiet as i would like it to be on highway speeds.
I also cleaned out the fuel sender. Man I had no idea how dirty that thing could get. 30 years of sludge, makes me wonder if my tanks is the same way.
so far, im getting bit by the "i need to fix everything" bug. It wont be good for my wallet.
Purplecomputer
02-25-2014, 09:28 AM #467just an update
I got the exhaust installed. I only went with one muffler as opossed to the two the car came with. Much quieter but not as quiet as i would like it to be on highway speeds.
I also cleaned out the fuel sender. Man I had no idea how dirty that thing could get. 30 years of sludge, makes me wonder if my tanks is the same way.
so far, im getting bit by the "i need to fix everything" bug. It wont be good for my wallet.
(02-21-2014, 12:34 PM)Simpler=Better Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Hilarious.
Anything that really requires jacking a car up and me laying my body all the way under I hire out. I get paranoid and shit. Ill be that guy crushed under a car.
Someday Ill own a proper lift.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
02-25-2014, 11:12 AM #468(02-21-2014, 12:34 PM)Simpler=Better Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Hilarious.
Anything that really requires jacking a car up and me laying my body all the way under I hire out. I get paranoid and shit. Ill be that guy crushed under a car.
Someday Ill own a proper lift.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(02-25-2014, 11:12 AM)lgreeley83(02-21-2014, 12:34 PM)Simpler=Better Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Hilarious.
Anything that really requires jacking a car up and me laying my body all the way under I hire out. I get paranoid and shit. Ill be that guy crushed under a car.
Someday Ill own a proper lift.
That feeling when you're under it on just the tires doing a lazy oil change and the wind blows it, squishing you just a little and you can't move....
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-25-2014, 11:55 AM #469(02-25-2014, 11:12 AM)lgreeley83(02-21-2014, 12:34 PM)Simpler=Better Ain't no shame in knowing what you can't do. I hire out ball joints, because fuck ball joints.
Hilarious.
Anything that really requires jacking a car up and me laying my body all the way under I hire out. I get paranoid and shit. Ill be that guy crushed under a car.
Someday Ill own a proper lift.
That feeling when you're under it on just the tires doing a lazy oil change and the wind blows it, squishing you just a little and you can't move....
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Lol not that paranoid but I think about it.
And while highjacking your build thread.....
Good work purplecomputer!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
02-25-2014, 12:18 PM #470I get paranoid even with an oil change. My luck I could have a jack stand and and jack in place not even lifted. A tire pops....jacks tear through rusty metal....and I'm dead ribs crushed, brain oozing out of my destroyed skull. My wife weeps but says to herself " him and his stupid cars". Kids forever live in fear of hands on work.
Lol not that paranoid but I think about it.
And while highjacking your build thread.....
Good work purplecomputer!
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(02-25-2014, 12:18 PM)lgreeley83 I get paranoid even with an oil change. My luck I could have a jack stand and and jack in place not even lifted. A tire pops....jacks tear through rusty metal....and I'm dead ribs crushed, brain oozing out of my destroyed skull. My wife weeps but says to herself " him and his stupid cars". Kids forever live in fear of hands on work.
Lol not that paranoid but I think about it.
And while highjacking your build thread.....
Good work purplecomputer!
just grab yourself some 12 ton jack stands.
I have a pair I grabbed to swap leaf springs on my van. The damn things are 2 feet tall minimum, but ive never felt so safe under a vehicle.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(02-25-2014, 12:18 PM)lgreeley83 I get paranoid even with an oil change. My luck I could have a jack stand and and jack in place not even lifted. A tire pops....jacks tear through rusty metal....and I'm dead ribs crushed, brain oozing out of my destroyed skull. My wife weeps but says to herself " him and his stupid cars". Kids forever live in fear of hands on work.
Lol not that paranoid but I think about it.
And while highjacking your build thread.....
Good work purplecomputer!
just grab yourself some 12 ton jack stands.
I have a pair I grabbed to swap leaf springs on my van. The damn things are 2 feet tall minimum, but ive never felt so safe under a vehicle.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-25-2014, 03:17 PM #472I just use ramps on the front, although I want to make/modify some super long ones so I can pull the whole car up
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Yes the bumper is upside down. Mechanic put it that way and I just don't care anymore
![[Image: IMG_20140223_120252_zpsnif8ebs_edit_1393...jxxswi.jpg]](http://s42.photobucket.com/user/links156/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140223_120252_zpsnif8ebs_edit_1393372072189_zpsadjxxswi.jpg.html)
Purplecomputer
02-25-2014, 06:53 PM #473Here's a picture of the car.
Yes the bumper is upside down. Mechanic put it that way and I just don't care anymore
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Such doge. Much class.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Now I gotta figure out what im going to do with all this gunk floating in my fuel tank. Its clogging up all my filters fast.
Purplecomputer
02-26-2014, 09:44 AM #475yeah doge memes are a little lame but oh well!
Now I gotta figure out what im going to do with all this gunk floating in my fuel tank. Its clogging up all my filters fast.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I think id be going back to a US spec bumper just in case you have any future fender benders, plus it hides a lot of crimes if the sheet metal isnt straight behind it
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(02-26-2014, 10:20 AM)JB3 I think id be going back to a US spec bumper just in case you have any future fender benders, plus it hides a lot of crimes if the sheet metal isnt straight behind it
I have thought about it, but theyre so ugly!
at least i passed inspection today, after i had gotten a ticket.
anyone know how long i have in NY to get it inspected after I register? Im pretty sure I have ten days
Purplecomputer
02-26-2014, 12:04 PM #477(02-26-2014, 10:20 AM)JB3 I think id be going back to a US spec bumper just in case you have any future fender benders, plus it hides a lot of crimes if the sheet metal isnt straight behind it
I have thought about it, but theyre so ugly!
at least i passed inspection today, after i had gotten a ticket.
anyone know how long i have in NY to get it inspected after I register? Im pretty sure I have ten days
So because I feel like this is going to work I added a water seperator to hopefully let any gunk float down to the bottom of the bowl. I had good success when using these for my wvo. Heavier particles would fall to the bottom
It's all ghetto rigged
![[Image: IMG_20140304_112540_zpsxig31r0m.jpg]](http://s42.photobucket.com/user/links156/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140304_112540_zpsxig31r0m.jpg.html)
After I got to class, I decided to see if I have Any leaks. Of course with my luck, looks like the diaphragm is torn again
![[Image: IMG_20140304_112610_zpsa6plfnv2.jpg]](http://s42.photobucket.com/user/links156/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140304_112610_zpsa6plfnv2.jpg.html)
I just can't win. I just got a new job which I will be needing a reliable vehicle. Wish I could really consider the 240 as such but right now I just can't trust it.
Oh, I Also had to buy a new battery!! Yay :/
Purplecomputer
03-04-2014, 11:49 AM #478Kept having issues with power due to not enough fuel.
So because I feel like this is going to work I added a water seperator to hopefully let any gunk float down to the bottom of the bowl. I had good success when using these for my wvo. Heavier particles would fall to the bottom
It's all ghetto rigged
After I got to class, I decided to see if I have Any leaks. Of course with my luck, looks like the diaphragm is torn again
I just can't win. I just got a new job which I will be needing a reliable vehicle. Wish I could really consider the 240 as such but right now I just can't trust it.
Oh, I Also had to buy a new battery!! Yay :/
(03-04-2014, 11:49 AM)Purplecomputer I just can't win. I just got a new job which I will be needing a reliable vehicle. Wish I could really consider the 240 as such but right now I just can't trust it.
Oh, I Also had to buy a new battery!! Yay :/
I just did the exact same
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(03-04-2014, 11:49 AM)Purplecomputer I just can't win. I just got a new job which I will be needing a reliable vehicle. Wish I could really consider the 240 as such but right now I just can't trust it.
Oh, I Also had to buy a new battery!! Yay :/
I just did the exact same
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-04-2014, 09:34 PM #480Vacuum pump diaphragm should last a long time yo, maybe it already had a pinhole or it got torn installing it?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
The kids your age who have newer cars and never have to work on them? Don't bullshit yourself, they don't pay a dime to own or maintain them. Just the way it is. Hell, I'm "established" and my DD still has like 15 things wrong with it but it still drives so I don't care.
Is the issue preventing the car from driving "safely"? Is the issue doing permanent damage? If you answered no/no, just keep topping off the oil and fix stuff 1 part at a time.
[rant]
I have just enough heat to defrost the windshield(wear hat).
AC is broken(sweat alot).
Driver's seatbelt latch is frozen open(reach over to passenger latch).
The parking brake sets, but won't release if it's colder than 35* out(park on level ground in gear).
There is an unidentified knocking until the engine gets to 100*F or so(warm up before moving).
Seat will snap back if you push too hard (Don't push).
Vibration(oh well).
Resonance at 1600rpm(keep her wound).
Third gear grinds to engage when cold (skip it)
Throwout bearing is starting to make noise(only use clutch from a stop)
Elec fan is ziptied in place, wiring is crap(it works, don't touch it)
Coolant is mud colored(watch the temp gauge, wait for spring)
Rear spiders are visibly worn, can feel slop easily (go easy on the rear end)
Passenger upper balljoint boot is torn (grease like it's free)
Alignment is shot(okay this one I need to fix tires ain't cheap)
[/rant] Still cheaper than a payment/ new car insurance, and I don't have any issues hitting potholes at speed or the occasional run-in with a shopping cart.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-05-2014, 09:51 AM #481Until you're rich and old or your parents suddenly get rich and old your cars are going to be in a constant state of triage. Trade for a 4cyl ranger stickshift[the mecca of modern simple]? Then the timing belt will snap, alternator brush melt, caliper lock up, ujoint fail, fuel pump screen clog, etc. etc.
The kids your age who have newer cars and never have to work on them? Don't bullshit yourself, they don't pay a dime to own or maintain them. Just the way it is. Hell, I'm "established" and my DD still has like 15 things wrong with it but it still drives so I don't care.
Is the issue preventing the car from driving "safely"? Is the issue doing permanent damage? If you answered no/no, just keep topping off the oil and fix stuff 1 part at a time.
[rant]
I have just enough heat to defrost the windshield(wear hat).
AC is broken(sweat alot).
Driver's seatbelt latch is frozen open(reach over to passenger latch).
The parking brake sets, but won't release if it's colder than 35* out(park on level ground in gear).
There is an unidentified knocking until the engine gets to 100*F or so(warm up before moving).
Seat will snap back if you push too hard (Don't push).
Vibration(oh well).
Resonance at 1600rpm(keep her wound).
Third gear grinds to engage when cold (skip it)
Throwout bearing is starting to make noise(only use clutch from a stop)
Elec fan is ziptied in place, wiring is crap(it works, don't touch it)
Coolant is mud colored(watch the temp gauge, wait for spring)
Rear spiders are visibly worn, can feel slop easily (go easy on the rear end)
Passenger upper balljoint boot is torn (grease like it's free)
Alignment is shot(okay this one I need to fix tires ain't cheap)
[/rant] Still cheaper than a payment/ new car insurance, and I don't have any issues hitting potholes at speed or the occasional run-in with a shopping cart.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-04-2014, 09:34 PM)sassparilla_kid Vacuum pump diaphragm should last a long time yo, maybe it already had a pinhole or it got torn installing it?
This one is totally my fault. I had a spare diaphragm so I did a quick install. Took me about 20 minutes to open, replace and seal it back up.
I installed the diaphragm in the wrong position and those metal plates in the wrong position, putting stress on it where it shouldn't. The hole was maybe about an inch and a half big.
(03-05-2014, 09:51 AM)Simpler=Better Until you're rich and old or your parents suddenly get rich and old your cars are going to be in a constant state of triage. Trade for a 4cyl ranger stickshift[the mecca of modern simple]? Then the timing belt will snap, alternator brush melt, caliper lock up, ujoint fail, fuel pump screen clog, etc. etc.
The kids your age who have newer cars and never have to work on them? Don't bullshit yourself, they don't pay a dime to own or maintain them. Just the way it is. Hell, I'm "established" and my DD still has like 15 things wrong with it but it still drives so I don't care.
Is the issue preventing the car from driving "safely"? Is the issue doing permanent damage? If you answered no/no, just keep topping off the oil and fix stuff 1 part at a time.
[rant]
I have just enough heat to defrost the windshield(wear hat).
AC is broken(sweat alot).
Driver's seatbelt latch is frozen open(reach over to passenger latch).
The parking brake sets, but won't release if it's colder than 35* out(park on level ground in gear).
There is an unidentified knocking until the engine gets to 100*F or so(warm up before moving).
Seat will snap back if you push too hard (Don't push).
Vibration(oh well).
Resonance at 1600rpm(keep her wound).
Third gear grinds to engage when cold (skip it)
Throwout bearing is starting to make noise(only use clutch from a stop)
Elec fan is ziptied in place, wiring is crap(it works, don't touch it)
Coolant is mud colored(watch the temp gauge, wait for spring)
Rear spiders are visibly worn, can feel slop easily (go easy on the rear end)
Passenger upper balljoint boot is torn (grease like it's free)
Alignment is shot(okay this one I need to fix tires ain't cheap)
[/rant] Still cheaper than a payment/ new car insurance, and I don't have any issues hitting potholes at speed or the occasional run-in with a shopping cart.
Yeah, Im out of a lease payment. $300 a month. I only pay $120 now for insurance. I do have 3 points on my license though, might get another 6 next month if the judge dosnt like my excuse (speeding back home from georgia)
its usually little things and im too god damn lazy to just fix them. However, the fuel issue was a little strange.
It runs pretty well now that I have that separator. When I drained the old filter, there was this strange, bright orange substance, smaller then rice clogging up the filter. (wish I took a picture)
All i need now is a valve adjustment and when I get more money fix the front end because that's shot. $200 for the kit from rock auto, $100 cheaper then my payment. My dad left all his tools in the garage when he moved out, I think he has the thing-a-majig to push down ball joints.
as for other kids my age, they always ask how I know how to do this stuff, I usually say. "I'm not afraid to break shit and get dirty"
Purplecomputer
03-05-2014, 10:16 AM #482(03-04-2014, 09:34 PM)sassparilla_kid Vacuum pump diaphragm should last a long time yo, maybe it already had a pinhole or it got torn installing it?
This one is totally my fault. I had a spare diaphragm so I did a quick install. Took me about 20 minutes to open, replace and seal it back up.
I installed the diaphragm in the wrong position and those metal plates in the wrong position, putting stress on it where it shouldn't. The hole was maybe about an inch and a half big.
(03-05-2014, 09:51 AM)Simpler=Better Until you're rich and old or your parents suddenly get rich and old your cars are going to be in a constant state of triage. Trade for a 4cyl ranger stickshift[the mecca of modern simple]? Then the timing belt will snap, alternator brush melt, caliper lock up, ujoint fail, fuel pump screen clog, etc. etc.
The kids your age who have newer cars and never have to work on them? Don't bullshit yourself, they don't pay a dime to own or maintain them. Just the way it is. Hell, I'm "established" and my DD still has like 15 things wrong with it but it still drives so I don't care.
Is the issue preventing the car from driving "safely"? Is the issue doing permanent damage? If you answered no/no, just keep topping off the oil and fix stuff 1 part at a time.
[rant]
I have just enough heat to defrost the windshield(wear hat).
AC is broken(sweat alot).
Driver's seatbelt latch is frozen open(reach over to passenger latch).
The parking brake sets, but won't release if it's colder than 35* out(park on level ground in gear).
There is an unidentified knocking until the engine gets to 100*F or so(warm up before moving).
Seat will snap back if you push too hard (Don't push).
Vibration(oh well).
Resonance at 1600rpm(keep her wound).
Third gear grinds to engage when cold (skip it)
Throwout bearing is starting to make noise(only use clutch from a stop)
Elec fan is ziptied in place, wiring is crap(it works, don't touch it)
Coolant is mud colored(watch the temp gauge, wait for spring)
Rear spiders are visibly worn, can feel slop easily (go easy on the rear end)
Passenger upper balljoint boot is torn (grease like it's free)
Alignment is shot(okay this one I need to fix tires ain't cheap)
[/rant] Still cheaper than a payment/ new car insurance, and I don't have any issues hitting potholes at speed or the occasional run-in with a shopping cart.
Yeah, Im out of a lease payment. $300 a month. I only pay $120 now for insurance. I do have 3 points on my license though, might get another 6 next month if the judge dosnt like my excuse (speeding back home from georgia)
its usually little things and im too god damn lazy to just fix them. However, the fuel issue was a little strange.
It runs pretty well now that I have that separator. When I drained the old filter, there was this strange, bright orange substance, smaller then rice clogging up the filter. (wish I took a picture)
All i need now is a valve adjustment and when I get more money fix the front end because that's shot. $200 for the kit from rock auto, $100 cheaper then my payment. My dad left all his tools in the garage when he moved out, I think he has the thing-a-majig to push down ball joints.
as for other kids my age, they always ask how I know how to do this stuff, I usually say. "I'm not afraid to break shit and get dirty"
This is whats in my Tank!!! I have no idea what it is?
![[Image: IMG_20140305_115715_zpsqnxyed1v.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140305_115715_zpsqnxyed1v.jpg)
Purplecomputer
03-05-2014, 11:59 AM #483decided to clean out the sender again because I kept having issues after cleaning it the first time.
This is whats in my Tank!!! I have no idea what it is?
Suit up and shave for the ticket. Speak up and don't be afraid to contest things-they won't ask you for your opinion they will just roll on through like they do all day.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-05-2014, 12:28 PM #484Did someone drown barbie in your fuel tank?
Suit up and shave for the ticket. Speak up and don't be afraid to contest things-they won't ask you for your opinion they will just roll on through like they do all day.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Edit: found the thread: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...n-problems
I think you have some bacteria problems in your fuel tank. There's a thread somewhere in the engine section about this. But, you'll have to add some stuff to your tank to kill it. And repeat that a few times.
Edit: found the thread: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...n-problems
(03-05-2014, 12:35 PM)Tito I think you have some bacteria problems in your fuel tank. There's a thread somewhere in the engine section about this. But, you'll have to add some stuff to your tank to kill it. And repeat that a few times.
Edit: found the thread: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...n-problems
I figured as much. Its kinda gross knowing little guys are just living in your fuel tank
Purplecomputer
03-05-2014, 01:01 PM #486(03-05-2014, 12:35 PM)Tito I think you have some bacteria problems in your fuel tank. There's a thread somewhere in the engine section about this. But, you'll have to add some stuff to your tank to kill it. And repeat that a few times.
Edit: found the thread: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...n-problems
I figured as much. Its kinda gross knowing little guys are just living in your fuel tank
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-05-2014, 01:47 PM #487They have the additive to kill that crap at the auto parts store, I suggest you get some extra fuel filters at the same time for when it all falls out of suspension lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
the IP has been modified to output more fuel. Im thinking for a turbo.
Purplecomputer
03-08-2014, 01:40 PM #488when i do a valve adjustment, ya'll think I should adjust them for a turbo engine or an N/A?
the IP has been modified to output more fuel. Im thinking for a turbo.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-08-2014, 10:13 PM #489I would go turbo, or split the difference
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
I would also need a larger oil pump, no?
if I can cool the pistons then cant i turn up the boost? Is this a difficult job?
lots of questions, but i think for longevity this mod may be worth the time and money
Purplecomputer
03-16-2014, 01:46 PM #490What would it take to install piston coolers on this car?
I would also need a larger oil pump, no?
if I can cool the pistons then cant i turn up the boost? Is this a difficult job?
lots of questions, but i think for longevity this mod may be worth the time and money
OM616 has been looking into squirters on a 616, check out his thread on it.
If you already have an EGT gauge, I'd just turn things up while keeping it under 1100*F
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-16-2014, 07:02 PM #491I hate to rain on your parade, but NA pistons and turbo pistons are different, so to reap the benefits you would have to pour a ton of time & money into the car. It would be faster & cheaper to buy a 617a and install custom rods then swap that into your chassis.
OM616 has been looking into squirters on a 616, check out his thread on it.
If you already have an EGT gauge, I'd just turn things up while keeping it under 1100*F
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
i adjusted them to turbo specs, start up is much quicker and acceleration is a lot more noticable/faster (Better? i dunno what word to use)
I still have air in my system so I bought a new primer pump (new style) Thats in the mail.
Bored at work i came across a very cool discovery. This might be old news to some of you guys but this is actually really cool for me.
They still manufacture the OM616 in india with a turbo and all the good parts needed to make it last
http://www.forcemotors.com/index.php/veh...rce_gurkha
apparently they also come with a five speed tansmission.
I wonder what would be the cost to have them ship a new engine to the states (if it is legal to do so)
probably a few grand. might be cheaper then a newer used car. Yeah I could always buy a 617 but thats not the point!
Purplecomputer
03-22-2014, 01:21 PM #492did a valve adjustment this past week along with tightening things and whatever i was too lazy to do this winter.
i adjusted them to turbo specs, start up is much quicker and acceleration is a lot more noticable/faster (Better? i dunno what word to use)
I still have air in my system so I bought a new primer pump (new style) Thats in the mail.
Bored at work i came across a very cool discovery. This might be old news to some of you guys but this is actually really cool for me.
They still manufacture the OM616 in india with a turbo and all the good parts needed to make it last
http://www.forcemotors.com/index.php/veh...rce_gurkha
apparently they also come with a five speed tansmission.
I wonder what would be the cost to have them ship a new engine to the states (if it is legal to do so)
probably a few grand. might be cheaper then a newer used car. Yeah I could always buy a 617 but thats not the point!
I Know for a fact I have air in the system because the little primary filter is not filled all the way.
Not sure if the new CAT water separator i installed is filled with air but i dont feel like taking it apart as it is messy with its setup.
anything I can try? ive been priming with the pump for at least an hour and i dont hear that nice buzzing sound indicating the air is bled.
EDIT:
just took a look, the filter has a small banjo bolt i unplug that put in a funnel in there and used some veggie oil in there since i dont have any diesel lying around. I primed the pump and bubbles came out, think I should do that a few more times. But if anyone has a better idea, let me know
Purplecomputer
03-27-2014, 03:08 PM #493Replaced my old primer pump with the new bosch ones hoping that my rough idle was due to air in the system.
I Know for a fact I have air in the system because the little primary filter is not filled all the way.
Not sure if the new CAT water separator i installed is filled with air but i dont feel like taking it apart as it is messy with its setup.
anything I can try? ive been priming with the pump for at least an hour and i dont hear that nice buzzing sound indicating the air is bled.
EDIT:
just took a look, the filter has a small banjo bolt i unplug that put in a funnel in there and used some veggie oil in there since i dont have any diesel lying around. I primed the pump and bubbles came out, think I should do that a few more times. But if anyone has a better idea, let me know
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-27-2014, 09:14 PM #494If you can get the car started the air should bleed out in a little bit naturally, and also it's normal for that pre filter to not be completely full of fuel. Rough idle could be ip timing related, not sure I'd 616's have a rack damper bolt but if so that could also be part of it
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(03-27-2014, 09:14 PM)sassparilla_kid If you can get the car started the air should bleed out in a little bit naturally, and also it's normal for that pre filter to not be completely full of fuel. Rough idle could be ip timing related, not sure I'd 616's have a rack damper bolt but if so that could also be part of it
Hmm, thanks for letting know. I was trying to fill that thing, priming like crazy.
So now this leads me to try two things,
Adjust the valves again to NA specs and if that dosnt work then its probably the IP timing like you said. Although I have no idea how to do that since I had someone do that for me.
Purplecomputer
03-28-2014, 07:53 AM #495(03-27-2014, 09:14 PM)sassparilla_kid If you can get the car started the air should bleed out in a little bit naturally, and also it's normal for that pre filter to not be completely full of fuel. Rough idle could be ip timing related, not sure I'd 616's have a rack damper bolt but if so that could also be part of it
Hmm, thanks for letting know. I was trying to fill that thing, priming like crazy.
So now this leads me to try two things,
Adjust the valves again to NA specs and if that dosnt work then its probably the IP timing like you said. Although I have no idea how to do that since I had someone do that for me.
Larsalan has a different opinion about that ;-)
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
03-28-2014, 06:37 PM #496IP timing is rewarding to learn. Give it a shot.
Larsalan has a different opinion about that ;-)
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
(03-28-2014, 06:37 PM)lgreeley83 IP timing is rewarding to learn. Give it a shot.
Larsalan has a different opinion about that ;-)
I'm always willing to learn. Is there any literature on the subject?
EDIT:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming
found this. Now im confused. am I physically moving the pump closer and farther away to time it?
dosnt seem to hard. just super involved and ill probably need a whole day and a spare injector line.
Purplecomputer
03-29-2014, 08:08 AM #497(03-28-2014, 06:37 PM)lgreeley83 IP timing is rewarding to learn. Give it a shot.
Larsalan has a different opinion about that ;-)
I'm always willing to learn. Is there any literature on the subject?
EDIT:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming
found this. Now im confused. am I physically moving the pump closer and farther away to time it?
dosnt seem to hard. just super involved and ill probably need a whole day and a spare injector line.
2. Think about buying a gasket for the IP shutoff pod
3. beg borrow make a timing tool. spare line is easy peasy
3. Buy a brand new paint marker
4. Make sure you have a small sharp chisel.
Look for a witness mark on the IP, if there isn't one add one with the punch.
The redneck way is to rotate towards the engine, test, and if it knocks retard the timing.
The right way is to:
-chisel witness mark the IP
-paint marker the shutoff pod so you know which way is open and closed
-Set engine to the timing you want (26-28BTDC)
-remove teh IP lines
-remove the shutoffpod
-remove teh $@#!$!@#$!! bracket from the back of the ip and don't lose any bolts
-remove oil line from IP
-Fuel lines too
-remove Ip bolts, pull IP
-scrape gasket stuff off
-new gasket in, oil it up to make it easier
-line up pump marks
-do the drip thingy
-tighten shit down, test drive. if it knocks, retard timing (rotate away from engine)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
03-29-2014, 10:14 AM #4981. Buy at least 4 gaskets that go between the IP and the block.
2. Think about buying a gasket for the IP shutoff pod
3. beg borrow make a timing tool. spare line is easy peasy
3. Buy a brand new paint marker
4. Make sure you have a small sharp chisel.
Look for a witness mark on the IP, if there isn't one add one with the punch.
The redneck way is to rotate towards the engine, test, and if it knocks retard the timing.
The right way is to:
-chisel witness mark the IP
-paint marker the shutoff pod so you know which way is open and closed
-Set engine to the timing you want (26-28BTDC)
-remove teh IP lines
-remove the shutoffpod
-remove teh $@#!$!@#$!! bracket from the back of the ip and don't lose any bolts
-remove oil line from IP
-Fuel lines too
-remove Ip bolts, pull IP
-scrape gasket stuff off
-new gasket in, oil it up to make it easier
-line up pump marks
-do the drip thingy
-tighten shit down, test drive. if it knocks, retard timing (rotate away from engine)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(03-29-2014, 10:14 AM)Simpler=Better 1. Buy at least 4 gaskets that go between the IP and the block.
2. Think about buying a gasket for the IP shutoff pod
3. beg borrow make a timing tool. spare line is easy peasy
3. Buy a brand new paint marker
4. Make sure you have a small sharp chisel.
Look for a witness mark on the IP, if there isn't one add one with the punch.
The redneck way is to rotate towards the engine, test, and if it knocks retard the timing.
The right way is to:
-chisel witness mark the IP
-paint marker the shutoff pod so you know which way is open and closed
-Set engine to the timing you want (26-28BTDC)
-remove teh IP lines
-remove the shutoffpod
-remove teh $@#!$!@#$!! bracket from the back of the ip and don't lose any bolts
-remove oil line from IP
-Fuel lines too
-remove Ip bolts, pull IP
-scrape gasket stuff off
-new gasket in, oil it up to make it easier
-line up pump marks
-do the drip thingy
-tighten shit down, test drive. if it knocks, retard timing (rotate away from engine)
seems waaaaay more involved. UGH i guess ill have to do it.
question, what is the witness mark and what punch?
Purplecomputer
03-29-2014, 10:35 AM #499(03-29-2014, 10:14 AM)Simpler=Better 1. Buy at least 4 gaskets that go between the IP and the block.
2. Think about buying a gasket for the IP shutoff pod
3. beg borrow make a timing tool. spare line is easy peasy
3. Buy a brand new paint marker
4. Make sure you have a small sharp chisel.
Look for a witness mark on the IP, if there isn't one add one with the punch.
The redneck way is to rotate towards the engine, test, and if it knocks retard the timing.
The right way is to:
-chisel witness mark the IP
-paint marker the shutoff pod so you know which way is open and closed
-Set engine to the timing you want (26-28BTDC)
-remove teh IP lines
-remove the shutoffpod
-remove teh $@#!$!@#$!! bracket from the back of the ip and don't lose any bolts
-remove oil line from IP
-Fuel lines too
-remove Ip bolts, pull IP
-scrape gasket stuff off
-new gasket in, oil it up to make it easier
-line up pump marks
-do the drip thingy
-tighten shit down, test drive. if it knocks, retard timing (rotate away from engine)
seems waaaaay more involved. UGH i guess ill have to do it.
question, what is the witness mark and what punch?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-29-2014, 02:57 PM #500Simpler added about eight steps to that lol, in reality all you have to do is loosen the nuts/bolts holding the IP on, wire the throttle to full open, remove the fuel lines, and delivery valve number 1, remove vacuum lines from pump, tbd use the drip tool and pump the primer pump, moving the IP, until you get the drops of fuel at the correct rate. Thus is all done with cylinder 1 at 24-26° BEFORE top dead center, on the compression stroke, and there's marks on the harmonic balancer that show degrees
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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