W114 with hard start and no glow plugs
W114 with hard start and no glow plugs
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
Just picked this thing up. I thought the motor was going to be shot but its not. It will start with the smallest shot of ether but wont idle and has low power but it does run smooth when running just tops out at 60mph. Also glow plug light not coming on. How does that system work? Any idea where to start looking?
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
Also my light was out but plugs still worked. Those metal things between plugs should get red hot after about 30 seconds. Easier to see at night. I converted mine to the manual push button with solenoid, don't know location of original fuse and relay. My guess inner drivers fender. You should her it click.
As far as no idle....fuel filters, air in lines? Does it idle at all when warm? Do you have an idle adjuster knob?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
03-03-2014, 02:09 PM #2Probably has the loop style glow plugs in it. Those are wired in series so if one closest to driver burns out all after are dead. Those hard metal things between each plug provide resistance. Do not put 12 volts to an individual plug.
Also my light was out but plugs still worked. Those metal things between plugs should get red hot after about 30 seconds. Easier to see at night. I converted mine to the manual push button with solenoid, don't know location of original fuse and relay. My guess inner drivers fender. You should her it click.
As far as no idle....fuel filters, air in lines? Does it idle at all when warm? Do you have an idle adjuster knob?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-03-2014, 11:09 PM #3Try a valve adjustment?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
As for not pulling 12v on a single plug I think that is wrong. To test any plug for at the very least continuity disconnect it from the wires then strike a jumper wire from the tip of it to the positive battery. Sparks flying means there is continuity. No spark and you need to replace those ones.
Also it is a huge 80w fuse on the driver side under the hood. Under a plastic cover attached to glow plug wires. I had never seen one burned personally.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I have had that light funk out when 1 plug goes bad. Then the light may come and go. And when 2 plugs go bad or 3 then you are well fucked.
As for not pulling 12v on a single plug I think that is wrong. To test any plug for at the very least continuity disconnect it from the wires then strike a jumper wire from the tip of it to the positive battery. Sparks flying means there is continuity. No spark and you need to replace those ones.
Also it is a huge 80w fuse on the driver side under the hood. Under a plastic cover attached to glow plug wires. I had never seen one burned personally.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-04-2014, 09:31 PM #5The old style plugs are different yo
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-05-2014, 01:04 PM #8I say adjust valves, get the upgraded plugs, report back
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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