Heavy duty clutch for 616/617 application
Heavy duty clutch for 616/617 application
04-05-2014, 09:39 PM
#1
I've looked a little bit but nothing stood out as obvious and I figures a topic like this should stand out. Maybe a sticky?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-05-2014, 09:39 PM #1So I need to upgrade any tried and true suggestions?
I've looked a little bit but nothing stood out as obvious and I figures a topic like this should stand out. Maybe a sticky?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
04-06-2014, 08:44 AM
#2
(04-05-2014, 09:39 PM)lgreeley83 So I need to upgrade any tried and true suggestions?
I've looked a little bit but nothing stood out as obvious and I figures a topic like this should stand out. Maybe a sticky?
This post was last modified: 04-06-2014, 08:44 AM by Austincarnut.
Austincarnut
04-06-2014, 08:44 AM #2What trans are you running? 716/4 speed?
(04-05-2014, 09:39 PM)lgreeley83 So I need to upgrade any tried and true suggestions?
I've looked a little bit but nothing stood out as obvious and I figures a topic like this should stand out. Maybe a sticky?
04-06-2014, 08:53 AM
#3
And then once I blow up my trans with a clutch that actually holds. Would that same clutch work with the slopeback iron 4spd I have in storage?
This post was last modified: 04-06-2014, 09:05 AM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-06-2014, 08:53 AM #3Ahh yeah 4 speed, but are they different? I have the aluminum in there now.
And then once I blow up my trans with a clutch that actually holds. Would that same clutch work with the slopeback iron 4spd I have in storage?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
04-06-2014, 09:25 AM
#4
(04-06-2014, 08:53 AM)lgreeley83 Ahh yeah 4 speed, but are they different? I have the aluminum in there now.
And then once I blow up my trans with a clutch that actually holds. Would that same clutch work with the slopeback iron 4spd I have in storage?
Austincarnut
04-06-2014, 09:25 AM #4I believe they are rated differently to input torque, not sure. I've ran the cast iron 716 and 3rd gear is very noisy, I keep spares until a better plan is worked out. I have 4 slope back transmissions, they seem to engage more firmly and seem a little more solid that that shitty getrag 4 speed aluminum one I started with. My buddy's euro 300d 4 speed has a flat back 4 speed originally if that helps. After playing around with the swap, the only thing I noticed was different between the 3 different transmissions' clutch kits were release bearings in the kits, although, I may be wrong...
(04-06-2014, 08:53 AM)lgreeley83 Ahh yeah 4 speed, but are they different? I have the aluminum in there now.
And then once I blow up my trans with a clutch that actually holds. Would that same clutch work with the slopeback iron 4spd I have in storage?
04-06-2014, 11:09 AM
#5
What do you recommend if I do? Of course I'm rolling coal with a Dieselmeken pump 20psi boost.
http://www.clutchnet.com/index.php?optio...Itemid=140
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-06-2014, 11:09 AM #5Clutchnet? Anybody try em?
What do you recommend if I do? Of course I'm rolling coal with a Dieselmeken pump 20psi boost.
http://www.clutchnet.com/index.php?optio...Itemid=140
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
04-06-2014, 12:53 PM
#6
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-06-2014, 12:53 PM #6Probably stage 3? Mine is daily driver. Pucks are no good from what I read...at least for daily.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
04-07-2014, 09:29 PM
#8
(04-06-2014, 12:53 PM)lgreeley83 Probably stage 3? Mine is daily driver. Pucks are no good from what I read...at least for daily.
I've a buddy that drifts a xrunner and drives it daily. He even thinks a puck is a pain in the ass. In-n-out drive through is an ordeal everytime.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
(04-06-2014, 12:53 PM)lgreeley83 Probably stage 3? Mine is daily driver. Pucks are no good from what I read...at least for daily.
I've a buddy that drifts a xrunner and drives it daily. He even thinks a puck is a pain in the ass. In-n-out drive through is an ordeal everytime.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
04-08-2014, 11:43 AM
#9
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
That's pretty much all we run in our tractors is the puck design. But i guess that's a little different application
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
04-08-2014, 02:38 PM
#10
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-08-2014, 02:38 PM #10My clutch was brand new when I swapped transmissions and it started slipping after like a month, so I have to either baby the throttle or baby the clutch. In addition to that, I think I need to bleed the clutch again, which is a major pain in the ass on these things
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
lgreeley83
04-08-2014, 02:43 PM #11We need a solution SAS.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
04-08-2014, 08:23 PM
#12
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-08-2014, 08:23 PM #12It needs a stickier disc and/or stiffer pressure plate, but I see any major changes to the pressure plate being problematic
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
04-08-2014, 08:39 PM
#13
(04-08-2014, 08:23 PM)sassparilla_kid It needs a stickier disc and/or stiffer pressure plate, but I see any major changes to the pressure plate being problematic
I did a brand new clutch/PP and haven't had any issues. Though I haven't done any serious mods yet. Maybe you got some oil on yours?
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
(04-08-2014, 08:23 PM)sassparilla_kid It needs a stickier disc and/or stiffer pressure plate, but I see any major changes to the pressure plate being problematic
I did a brand new clutch/PP and haven't had any issues. Though I haven't done any serious mods yet. Maybe you got some oil on yours?
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
04-08-2014, 08:53 PM
#14
Because I have no clue.
This post was last modified: 04-08-2014, 08:53 PM by lgreeley83.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-08-2014, 08:53 PM #14Why do you think changing the pressure plat would be problematic?
Because I have no clue.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
04-11-2014, 02:36 PM
#15
And I think heavier pressure plate springs would cause the seals to blow out of the master/slave cylinders, which I already had happen right after I swapped the standard in
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-11-2014, 02:36 PM #15First, don't think I got any oil on it, made extra sure to keep it clean.
And I think heavier pressure plate springs would cause the seals to blow out of the master/slave cylinders, which I already had happen right after I swapped the standard in
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
04-14-2014, 09:28 AM
#16
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Was your flywheel surfaced to make it true? A uneven flywheel can cause back contact and make one slip when it shouldn't.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
04-14-2014, 02:07 PM
#17
Anyhow, the disk didn't get soaked in oil or something... but it seems that even a little oil has huge consequences.
I did a clutch swap with oily hands because i was in a hurry and needed to get the car running. The clutch couldn't handle anything. Today, the same clutch holds an estimated 300hp. I guess the oil came off with the clutch slipping.
Anyhow, the disk didn't get soaked in oil or something... but it seems that even a little oil has huge consequences.
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