relocating battery to trunk tomorrow
relocating battery to trunk tomorrow
04-08-2014, 08:21 AM
#2
I nice way to do it is to buy a marine battery box, cost less than 20 bucks and will ensure the terminals are not exposed. Just make sure you mount it in a location that you will be able to easily hook up jumper cables. Just imagine a trunk full of luggage and a dead battery, a quick jump turns into unloading everything...
04-08-2014, 09:28 AM
#4
(04-08-2014, 09:01 AM)Jetmugg From a safety standpoint, using a sealed battery box with external venting is the preferred option. Obviously, you are free to do what you see fit, but thought I would offer this up.
Steve
Steve, good thinking ... any thoughts/experience on ...
Moroso NHRA legal: http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv6batt.htm
Noco Marine: http://www.boatdepot.com/p-4090/noco-gro...Mgod5nUALw
other?
(04-08-2014, 09:01 AM)Jetmugg From a safety standpoint, using a sealed battery box with external venting is the preferred option. Obviously, you are free to do what you see fit, but thought I would offer this up.
Steve
Steve, good thinking ... any thoughts/experience on ...
Moroso NHRA legal: http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv6batt.htm
Noco Marine: http://www.boatdepot.com/p-4090/noco-gro...Mgod5nUALw
other?
04-08-2014, 08:21 PM
#7
This post was last modified: 04-09-2014, 08:45 PM by 300SD_KY.
the job is done ... works great, with 1/0 gauge cable, 300 amp fuse box, and marine battery box secure in the rear, which allows me to keep a spare ... for now, keeping the original battery tray ... but that will go before too long: http://bit.ly/1lOSTqV
04-10-2014, 10:10 PM
#8
All gave some, Some gave it all ~ 9/11 Never Forget
People shouldn't fear their Government, The Government should fear its people.
ShaggyDiesel
04-10-2014, 10:10 PM #8just throwing this out there but how about going with a lithium-ion battery. the cost is higher, but smaller size and lower weight.
All gave some, Some gave it all ~ 9/11 Never Forget
People shouldn't fear their Government, The Government should fear its people.
04-10-2014, 10:19 PM
#9
my butt-dyno says the car handles better with the 70-pounds of batter in the trunk.
fit-and-finish wise (as well as long-term use), i am glad that the battery cable goes from the trunk, under the rear seat, under the carpeting to the engine compartment ... one alternative was to run the cabling underneath the car, with zip ties = no thank you.
when i win the lottery ;-) lithium-ion batteries EXPENSIVE ... $2k up
my butt-dyno says the car handles better with the 70-pounds of batter in the trunk.
fit-and-finish wise (as well as long-term use), i am glad that the battery cable goes from the trunk, under the rear seat, under the carpeting to the engine compartment ... one alternative was to run the cabling underneath the car, with zip ties = no thank you.
04-11-2014, 08:30 AM
#10
(04-10-2014, 10:19 PM)300SD_KY when i win the lottery ;-) lithium-ion batteries EXPENSIVE ... $2k up
my butt-dyno says the car handles better with the 70-pounds of batter in the trunk.
fit-and-finish wise (as well as long-term use), i am glad that the battery cable goes from the trunk, under the rear seat, under the carpeting to the engine compartment ... one alternative was to run the cabling underneath the car, with zip ties = no thank you.
You can run it under the car too, buy a long piece of pvc pipe, 1/2" or 3/4", whichever is needed to fit the cables. With a heat gun, you can bend the pvc pipe very easily to fit the contour of the undercarriage from front to back in one singe piece. Paint the pvc black to not stand out. Get about 20 feet of twine and your vacuum, with the vacuum attachment on one end of the pipe, feed the twine in until it is sucked out the other side. VERY securely afix the twine to the + & - cables, put a little grease or lubricant (anything that wont damage the cable insulation) on a rag, run it down the length of the cable, then pull the cables through the pipe.
Might sound like a lot of steps, but its pretty simple really. This is how we used to run electrical wire through conduit that was already inplace under concrete. We could pull cable through over a 100' of 3/4" pvc, so...
This post was last modified: 04-11-2014, 08:31 AM by snowbrd84.
(04-10-2014, 10:19 PM)300SD_KY when i win the lottery ;-) lithium-ion batteries EXPENSIVE ... $2k up
my butt-dyno says the car handles better with the 70-pounds of batter in the trunk.
fit-and-finish wise (as well as long-term use), i am glad that the battery cable goes from the trunk, under the rear seat, under the carpeting to the engine compartment ... one alternative was to run the cabling underneath the car, with zip ties = no thank you.
You can run it under the car too, buy a long piece of pvc pipe, 1/2" or 3/4", whichever is needed to fit the cables. With a heat gun, you can bend the pvc pipe very easily to fit the contour of the undercarriage from front to back in one singe piece. Paint the pvc black to not stand out. Get about 20 feet of twine and your vacuum, with the vacuum attachment on one end of the pipe, feed the twine in until it is sucked out the other side. VERY securely afix the twine to the + & - cables, put a little grease or lubricant (anything that wont damage the cable insulation) on a rag, run it down the length of the cable, then pull the cables through the pipe.
Might sound like a lot of steps, but its pretty simple really. This is how we used to run electrical wire through conduit that was already inplace under concrete. We could pull cable through over a 100' of 3/4" pvc, so...
04-11-2014, 02:33 PM
#11
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-11-2014, 02:33 PM #11My problem with putting the battery in the trunk is my springs are already extra saggy and my car looks like a dog dragging its ass across the carpet, and then there's the issue of where is the spare tire gonna go after I fill it's space up with batteries
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
04-11-2014, 04:59 PM
#12
(04-11-2014, 02:33 PM)sassparilla_kid My problem with putting the battery in the trunk is my springs are already extra saggy and my car looks like a dog dragging its ass across the carpet, and then there's the issue of where is the spare tire gonna go after I fill it's space up with batteries
I've got Bilstein HDs all around and H&R sport springs ... they handle anything without sagging. The install allows the spare tire to stay in the trunk = perfect ... Check it out: http://bit.ly/1lOSTqV
(04-11-2014, 02:33 PM)sassparilla_kid My problem with putting the battery in the trunk is my springs are already extra saggy and my car looks like a dog dragging its ass across the carpet, and then there's the issue of where is the spare tire gonna go after I fill it's space up with batteries
I've got Bilstein HDs all around and H&R sport springs ... they handle anything without sagging. The install allows the spare tire to stay in the trunk = perfect ... Check it out: http://bit.ly/1lOSTqV
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