STD Tuning Drivetrain I found a 4-speed!

I found a 4-speed!

I found a 4-speed!

 
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Gasoline Fumes
Diesel Fumes?

54
09-09-2009, 05:27 AM #1
I found a 4-speed manual in a '78 240D. What do I need to get it out of the donor car? Any odd sizes or special tools? And should I drop the transmission or lift the whole drivetrain out of the top? How much does the tranny weigh?
Gasoline Fumes
09-09-2009, 05:27 AM #1

I found a 4-speed manual in a '78 240D. What do I need to get it out of the donor car? Any odd sizes or special tools? And should I drop the transmission or lift the whole drivetrain out of the top? How much does the tranny weigh?

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
09-09-2009, 10:53 AM #2
Tranny is about 50lbs. It would be much easier to drop it if thats all you're after.

Tranny, driveline, flywheel, master cylinder, clutch hardline and shifter assy. Same tools as used to remove an automatic plus some flare wrenches for the clutch line.
ForcedInduction
09-09-2009, 10:53 AM #2

Tranny is about 50lbs. It would be much easier to drop it if thats all you're after.

Tranny, driveline, flywheel, master cylinder, clutch hardline and shifter assy. Same tools as used to remove an automatic plus some flare wrenches for the clutch line.

charmalu
GTA2056V

99
09-09-2009, 11:28 AM #3
(09-09-2009, 05:27 AM)Gasoline Fumes I found a 4-speed manual in a '78 240D. What do I need to get it out of the donor car? Any odd sizes or special tools? And should I drop the transmission or lift the whole drivetrain out of the top? How much does the tranny weigh?

Trans doesn`t weigh all that much. I pulled one, and Iam a weak old fart. It can be dropped from under the car.

remove the shift rods. disconnect the clutch line at the rubber hose on the left side.
the bolt for the trans to mount is a 19mm
two bolts hold mount to X mount 13 or 14mm
two bolts for X mount 17mm

I usually drop the X mount and the trans will drop down a little (this is at the Junk Yard). at home you will have the luxury of a jack.

then there is the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. 17mm
and maybe the exhaust mount on the trans and the ground strap 15mm.

It should just slide back and down. not as heavy as you would think, maybe 70#.

the flywheel bolts takes a 12pt 12mm I believe.
the clutch has about 6 bolts maybe 13mm

If you are going to remove the shifter, 4 10mm bolts hold it to the body.

this is what I remember from my last job.

Charlie
charmalu
09-09-2009, 11:28 AM #3

(09-09-2009, 05:27 AM)Gasoline Fumes I found a 4-speed manual in a '78 240D. What do I need to get it out of the donor car? Any odd sizes or special tools? And should I drop the transmission or lift the whole drivetrain out of the top? How much does the tranny weigh?

Trans doesn`t weigh all that much. I pulled one, and Iam a weak old fart. It can be dropped from under the car.

remove the shift rods. disconnect the clutch line at the rubber hose on the left side.
the bolt for the trans to mount is a 19mm
two bolts hold mount to X mount 13 or 14mm
two bolts for X mount 17mm

I usually drop the X mount and the trans will drop down a little (this is at the Junk Yard). at home you will have the luxury of a jack.

then there is the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. 17mm
and maybe the exhaust mount on the trans and the ground strap 15mm.

It should just slide back and down. not as heavy as you would think, maybe 70#.

the flywheel bolts takes a 12pt 12mm I believe.
the clutch has about 6 bolts maybe 13mm

If you are going to remove the shifter, 4 10mm bolts hold it to the body.

this is what I remember from my last job.

Charlie

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
09-09-2009, 12:22 PM #4
I dropped the one from the race car this weekend in under 2 hrs.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
09-09-2009, 12:22 PM #4

I dropped the one from the race car this weekend in under 2 hrs.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
09-09-2009, 01:46 PM #5
they are easy I swapped one in a 240 in 3hr in the 240 you have the luxury of getting to the top transmission bolts through the engine bay good luck the hardest part is probably the drive shaft 17/10mm allen?
This post was last modified: 09-09-2009, 01:47 PM by willbhere4u.

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
09-09-2009, 01:46 PM #5

they are easy I swapped one in a 240 in 3hr in the 240 you have the luxury of getting to the top transmission bolts through the engine bay good luck the hardest part is probably the drive shaft 17/10mm allen?


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

Gasoline Fumes
Diesel Fumes?

54
09-09-2009, 11:40 PM #6
How high does the car need to be? It's parked in the grass.

So I just need basic sockets and hex/allen bits?


(09-09-2009, 10:53 AM)ForcedInduction flare wrenches for the clutch line.
Do you happen to remember what size? I want to be sure I have everything I need, it's over an hour away.
Gasoline Fumes
09-09-2009, 11:40 PM #6

How high does the car need to be? It's parked in the grass.

So I just need basic sockets and hex/allen bits?


(09-09-2009, 10:53 AM)ForcedInduction flare wrenches for the clutch line.
Do you happen to remember what size? I want to be sure I have everything I need, it's over an hour away.

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
09-10-2009, 01:22 AM #7
(09-09-2009, 11:40 PM)Gasoline Fumes Do you happen to remember what size? I want to be sure I have everything I need, it's over an hour away.

10mm? I think I may have a spare setup in my storage unit... Ill try to double check tomorrow if no one else rogers up.... you can get a whole cheapo set from 'the zone' for about 20 bux

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
09-10-2009, 01:22 AM #7

(09-09-2009, 11:40 PM)Gasoline Fumes Do you happen to remember what size? I want to be sure I have everything I need, it's over an hour away.

10mm? I think I may have a spare setup in my storage unit... Ill try to double check tomorrow if no one else rogers up.... you can get a whole cheapo set from 'the zone' for about 20 bux


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

dalek
K26-2

29
09-10-2009, 05:27 PM #8
(09-10-2009, 01:22 AM)SurfRodder
(09-09-2009, 11:40 PM)Gasoline Fumes Do you happen to remember what size? I want to be sure I have everything I need, it's over an hour away.

10mm? I think I may have a spare setup in my storage unit... Ill try to double check tomorrow if no one else rogers up.... you can get a whole cheapo set from 'the zone' for about 20 bux

I want to say 12mm but I could be wrong. I do have flare wrenches (the old-style Sears ones before the shortened and made them shiny) but think in a pinch you should be able to loose them with a normal open end wrench; I took the line off the master cylinder off a W115 and it did not seem to be very tight at all; kinda like the just-enough tight you see in proper AN fittings if that gives you an idea.

Also, when you pop the clips for the linkage, maybe number or take a picture to know which linkage goes where. I did not do it and now feel like an idiot.

If you can, also yank the front driveshaft up to the big nut; you will need a large crescent wrench to pop it loose. And, now I wonder if that will get you anything. Still, I would save it.

In the W115, the shifter itself is held by 4 10mm long bolts reachable from the top, covered by the shifter boot cover thingie. Once you separate the linkage from the bottom of the shifter, it should come out without much fuss.

The pedal assembly came out rather easily.
This post was last modified: 09-10-2009, 05:30 PM by dalek.

I am not here to make waves; Sois jeune et tais toi
dalek
09-10-2009, 05:27 PM #8

(09-10-2009, 01:22 AM)SurfRodder
(09-09-2009, 11:40 PM)Gasoline Fumes Do you happen to remember what size? I want to be sure I have everything I need, it's over an hour away.

10mm? I think I may have a spare setup in my storage unit... Ill try to double check tomorrow if no one else rogers up.... you can get a whole cheapo set from 'the zone' for about 20 bux

I want to say 12mm but I could be wrong. I do have flare wrenches (the old-style Sears ones before the shortened and made them shiny) but think in a pinch you should be able to loose them with a normal open end wrench; I took the line off the master cylinder off a W115 and it did not seem to be very tight at all; kinda like the just-enough tight you see in proper AN fittings if that gives you an idea.

Also, when you pop the clips for the linkage, maybe number or take a picture to know which linkage goes where. I did not do it and now feel like an idiot.

If you can, also yank the front driveshaft up to the big nut; you will need a large crescent wrench to pop it loose. And, now I wonder if that will get you anything. Still, I would save it.

In the W115, the shifter itself is held by 4 10mm long bolts reachable from the top, covered by the shifter boot cover thingie. Once you separate the linkage from the bottom of the shifter, it should come out without much fuss.

The pedal assembly came out rather easily.


I am not here to make waves; Sois jeune et tais toi

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
09-11-2009, 01:13 PM #9
like mentioned above, I would pull the whole driveshaft, front and back sections. If its going into a 300, you'll need to have it shortened and rebalanced. Any competent shop will tell you to bring them the whole thing and they'll replace the center support bearing and restake a u-joint before balanceing it. you can always bring them your aft section, but then youll be sans car for that much longer.
on MShop, someone said that a front section from an older chassis would fit, but I don't remember what it was. I had already had mine shortened and rebalanced so I didnt pay attention to what it was.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
09-11-2009, 01:13 PM #9

like mentioned above, I would pull the whole driveshaft, front and back sections. If its going into a 300, you'll need to have it shortened and rebalanced. Any competent shop will tell you to bring them the whole thing and they'll replace the center support bearing and restake a u-joint before balanceing it. you can always bring them your aft section, but then youll be sans car for that much longer.
on MShop, someone said that a front section from an older chassis would fit, but I don't remember what it was. I had already had mine shortened and rebalanced so I didnt pay attention to what it was.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

dalek
K26-2

29
09-11-2009, 01:25 PM #10
Which reminds me: weren't you talking about the merits of going single driveshaft with slip and u-joints? I think that is a decent idea myself. Would you slap a torque tube around it?

I am not here to make waves; Sois jeune et tais toi
dalek
09-11-2009, 01:25 PM #10

Which reminds me: weren't you talking about the merits of going single driveshaft with slip and u-joints? I think that is a decent idea myself. Would you slap a torque tube around it?


I am not here to make waves; Sois jeune et tais toi

 
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