Purple turbo 240D
Purple turbo 240D
03-29-2014, 03:26 PM
#501
(03-29-2014, 02:57 PM)sassparilla_kid Simpler added about eight steps to that lol, in reality all you have to do is loosen the nuts/bolts holding the IP on, wire the throttle to full open, remove the fuel lines, and delivery valve number 1, remove vacuum lines from pump, tbd use the drip tool and pump the primer pump, moving the IP, until you get the drops of fuel at the correct rate. Thus is all done with cylinder 1 at 24-26° BEFORE top dead center, on the compression stroke, and there's marks on the harmonic balancer that show degrees
ahh, yes
the harmonic balancer, of course!
Purplecomputer
03-29-2014, 03:26 PM #501(03-29-2014, 02:57 PM)sassparilla_kid Simpler added about eight steps to that lol, in reality all you have to do is loosen the nuts/bolts holding the IP on, wire the throttle to full open, remove the fuel lines, and delivery valve number 1, remove vacuum lines from pump, tbd use the drip tool and pump the primer pump, moving the IP, until you get the drops of fuel at the correct rate. Thus is all done with cylinder 1 at 24-26° BEFORE top dead center, on the compression stroke, and there's marks on the harmonic balancer that show degrees
ahh, yes
the harmonic balancer, of course!
03-31-2014, 10:25 AM
#502
Was stuck in traffic on my way to work for two hours.
during that time i experience some strange electrical issues
if you are going 30mph but less then 55mph if you hit the brakes, turned on your side signals or put the blower to full blast the radio would cut out.
if you went between 55mph to 60mph the radio would cut in and out.
over 60mph the radio was completely off and the faster you drove the faster the windshield wipers would go and the blink rate of the turn signal would also go faster. They would also slow down if you slowed down as well.
i also took a look at my fuses, tried re-seating one of them. It was so hot, the strip of metal got stuck to the locking tab, sort of welded itself to it!
also the wire from the wall to the first glow plug melted!
i know its a ground problem but where?!?!?
so im getting a bunch of money this week because i worked my ass off. Probably going to pick up the materials to repaint the fender this week and paint it when the weather is warmer.
as far as other work what do you guys think I should do first?
re-do the front suspension
or
buy 4 Bilstein HD's and cut the springs and install new trialing arm bushings
or
install the new A/C components I ordered last year.
or
swap out my rear differential to a 3.07 or a 2.88(2.98?)
EDIT: found my electrical gremlin.
When it rained today, water got into the trunk as well as soaking the tail lights causing a short. Also killed the battery. Had to charge it at work, at least I got an extra hour of work.
Looks like ill be needing to change the trunk seal.
This post was last modified: 03-31-2014, 06:53 PM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
03-31-2014, 10:25 AM #502Had some really unexpected weather today. First hail then snow now rain.
Was stuck in traffic on my way to work for two hours.
during that time i experience some strange electrical issues
if you are going 30mph but less then 55mph if you hit the brakes, turned on your side signals or put the blower to full blast the radio would cut out.
if you went between 55mph to 60mph the radio would cut in and out.
over 60mph the radio was completely off and the faster you drove the faster the windshield wipers would go and the blink rate of the turn signal would also go faster. They would also slow down if you slowed down as well.
i also took a look at my fuses, tried re-seating one of them. It was so hot, the strip of metal got stuck to the locking tab, sort of welded itself to it!
also the wire from the wall to the first glow plug melted!
i know its a ground problem but where?!?!?
so im getting a bunch of money this week because i worked my ass off. Probably going to pick up the materials to repaint the fender this week and paint it when the weather is warmer.
as far as other work what do you guys think I should do first?
re-do the front suspension
or
buy 4 Bilstein HD's and cut the springs and install new trialing arm bushings
or
install the new A/C components I ordered last year.
or
swap out my rear differential to a 3.07 or a 2.88(2.98?)
EDIT: found my electrical gremlin.
When it rained today, water got into the trunk as well as soaking the tail lights causing a short. Also killed the battery. Had to charge it at work, at least I got an extra hour of work.
Looks like ill be needing to change the trunk seal.
04-10-2014, 08:19 AM
#503
Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?
Purplecomputer
04-10-2014, 08:19 AM #503i seem to be having some heating issues. The needle gets right above 175 degrees with the heat on, with it off im guessing it goes up to around 190-200 degrees. If I drive between 60 to 65 im okay.
Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?
04-10-2014, 08:32 AM
#504
The electric fan would be a great upgrade too as long as you replace your trunk seal first
(04-10-2014, 08:19 AM)Purplecomputer Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
How could you go wrong with a bigger rad? Go for it!
The electric fan would be a great upgrade too as long as you replace your trunk seal first
(04-10-2014, 08:19 AM)Purplecomputer Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD - 160k
'06.5 VW Jetta TDI - 230k
'82 MB 300TD - 116k (motor going to raysorenson)
'81 MB 300TD - 195k (parting out)
'71 Jeep DJ5 - diesel conversion project
04-10-2014, 09:44 AM
#505
(04-10-2014, 08:32 AM)CRD4x4 How could you go wrong with a bigger rad? Go for it!
The electric fan would be a great upgrade too as long as you replace your trunk seal first
(04-10-2014, 08:19 AM)Purplecomputer Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?
both are expensive upgrades for me right now but an overheated engine would be a bigger one!
any recommendations? im on a college student budget so something thats the best bang for your buck.
Purplecomputer
04-10-2014, 09:44 AM #505(04-10-2014, 08:32 AM)CRD4x4 How could you go wrong with a bigger rad? Go for it!
The electric fan would be a great upgrade too as long as you replace your trunk seal first
(04-10-2014, 08:19 AM)Purplecomputer Im thinking of switching over to a bigger radiator and an electric fan. What do you guys think?
both are expensive upgrades for me right now but an overheated engine would be a bigger one!
any recommendations? im on a college student budget so something thats the best bang for your buck.
04-11-2014, 02:46 PM
#506
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-11-2014, 02:46 PM #506I think a radiator flush is in order, as well as new thermostat and maybe water pump, before you go re engineering the cooling system. Might could try getting a radiator from a turbo car, they're a little bigger I believe
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
04-12-2014, 09:51 AM
#507
(04-11-2014, 02:46 PM)sassparilla_kid I think a radiator flush is in order, as well as new thermostat and maybe water pump, before you go re engineering the cooling system. Might could try getting a radiator from a turbo car, they're a little bigger I believe
I was thinking of doing that.
The turbo models also have an expansion tank so installing one plus a bigger radiator and an electric fan might help. Im going to be installing the A/C soon so I need to get this engine cooling in order first.
Purplecomputer
04-12-2014, 09:51 AM #507(04-11-2014, 02:46 PM)sassparilla_kid I think a radiator flush is in order, as well as new thermostat and maybe water pump, before you go re engineering the cooling system. Might could try getting a radiator from a turbo car, they're a little bigger I believe
I was thinking of doing that.
The turbo models also have an expansion tank so installing one plus a bigger radiator and an electric fan might help. Im going to be installing the A/C soon so I need to get this engine cooling in order first.
04-13-2014, 08:22 AM
#508
I go through my long winded explanation since I have learned the very hard way that it's possible to make this or that minor or singular repair, but in the long run, it is always better to replace all items or components in a particular problem area and that saves a lot of time. Time is my real enemy (and money), but if I get 1-2 hours a week now to tinker with my pet project, I am lucky. If you're in the same boat, get all the parts, plan it out, and in the long run, the project goes by super fast and you won't have any problems next weekend.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
You have enough space for a 3" all aluminum aftermarket. You could even relocate the oil cooler, and have the radiator be around 30" wide. They cost around $200. I started having heating issues last year, and I got one which was around the same dimensions of the OEM one (was grafted from my first MB). Until it gets really hot in South Carolina, I don't have any fans at all (I am excluding the A/C condenser fan up front) and my car never goes past 80C. If you have overheating issues, it is most likely the water pump, the thermostat, or the radiator, assuming no leaks or head issues. And yes, re-engineering the cooling system is timely and costly. OEM water pumps run $85 and all aluminum aftermarket 3" radiators off Ebay run around $200.00. So, if you want to re-do the system and get rid of all possible issues (excluding major engine issues), you are looking at around $350.00 in your budget and that avoids R&D and any real changes.
I go through my long winded explanation since I have learned the very hard way that it's possible to make this or that minor or singular repair, but in the long run, it is always better to replace all items or components in a particular problem area and that saves a lot of time. Time is my real enemy (and money), but if I get 1-2 hours a week now to tinker with my pet project, I am lucky. If you're in the same boat, get all the parts, plan it out, and in the long run, the project goes by super fast and you won't have any problems next weekend.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
04-13-2014, 11:03 AM
#509
(04-13-2014, 08:22 AM)Greazzer You have enough space for a 3" all aluminum aftermarket. You could even relocate the oil cooler, and have the radiator be around 30" wide. They cost around $200. I started having heating issues last year, and I got one which was around the same dimensions of the OEM one (was grafted from my first MB). Until it gets really hot in South Carolina, I don't have any fans at all (I am excluding the A/C condenser fan up front) and my car never goes past 80C. If you have overheating issues, it is most likely the water pump, the thermostat, or the radiator, assuming no leaks or head issues. And yes, re-engineering the cooling system is timely and costly. OEM water pumps run $85 and all aluminum aftermarket 3" radiators off Ebay run around $200.00. So, if you want to re-do the system and get rid of all possible issues (excluding major engine issues), you are looking at around $350.00 in your budget and that avoids R&D and any real changes.
I go through my long winded explanation since I have learned the very hard way that it's possible to make this or that minor or singular repair, but in the long run, it is always better to replace all items or components in a particular problem area and that saves a lot of time. Time is my real enemy (and money), but if I get 1-2 hours a week now to tinker with my pet project, I am lucky. If you're in the same boat, get all the parts, plan it out, and in the long run, the project goes by super fast and you won't have any problems next weekend.
Thanks for your input guys.
my friend recently totaled his bmw m3. He has a superb aftermarket cooling system and the radiator is about the same size so hes going to give me that (saving some money there) im also of thinking of taking his electric fan so more money saved right there.
I also have all the parts for the A/C so once i get everything together and in my possesion I can do this job right the first time.
also, do you guys think I could get away with using URO parts for my front suspension? $150 for aftermarket or $600 for OEM lemforder.
Purplecomputer
04-13-2014, 11:03 AM #509(04-13-2014, 08:22 AM)Greazzer You have enough space for a 3" all aluminum aftermarket. You could even relocate the oil cooler, and have the radiator be around 30" wide. They cost around $200. I started having heating issues last year, and I got one which was around the same dimensions of the OEM one (was grafted from my first MB). Until it gets really hot in South Carolina, I don't have any fans at all (I am excluding the A/C condenser fan up front) and my car never goes past 80C. If you have overheating issues, it is most likely the water pump, the thermostat, or the radiator, assuming no leaks or head issues. And yes, re-engineering the cooling system is timely and costly. OEM water pumps run $85 and all aluminum aftermarket 3" radiators off Ebay run around $200.00. So, if you want to re-do the system and get rid of all possible issues (excluding major engine issues), you are looking at around $350.00 in your budget and that avoids R&D and any real changes.
I go through my long winded explanation since I have learned the very hard way that it's possible to make this or that minor or singular repair, but in the long run, it is always better to replace all items or components in a particular problem area and that saves a lot of time. Time is my real enemy (and money), but if I get 1-2 hours a week now to tinker with my pet project, I am lucky. If you're in the same boat, get all the parts, plan it out, and in the long run, the project goes by super fast and you won't have any problems next weekend.
Thanks for your input guys.
my friend recently totaled his bmw m3. He has a superb aftermarket cooling system and the radiator is about the same size so hes going to give me that (saving some money there) im also of thinking of taking his electric fan so more money saved right there.
I also have all the parts for the A/C so once i get everything together and in my possesion I can do this job right the first time.
also, do you guys think I could get away with using URO parts for my front suspension? $150 for aftermarket or $600 for OEM lemforder.
04-13-2014, 12:03 PM
#510
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
STAY AWAY FROM URO. EXCLUDE ALL THE HYPE ON THE OTHER FORUMS. My current DD has Uro parts and I doubt they are more than two years or so old and every piece of rubber is rotten. I have to do my front end, but most likely in the fall. Assuming time is a commodity, then why go thru the long weekend making everything new again only for it to fail within a year versus 10 years ? Buy German. Look around on Autohauz AZ, Ebay, and price shop during your market research. $600 sounds about right, but it's worth it since you will have rotten rubber parts within 12-24 months if you buy Uro.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
04-13-2014, 12:29 PM
#511
(04-13-2014, 12:03 PM)Greazzer STAY AWAY FROM URO. EXCLUDE ALL THE HYPE ON THE OTHER FORUMS. My current DD has Uro parts and I doubt they are more than two years or so old and every piece of rubber is rotten. I have to do my front end, but most likely in the fall. Assuming time is a commodity, then why go thru the long weekend making everything new again only for it to fail within a year versus 10 years ? Buy German. Look around on Autohauz AZ, Ebay, and price shop during your market research. $600 sounds about right, but it's worth it since you will have rotten rubber parts within 12-24 months if you buy Uro.
I figured as much. $150 fits right in my budget but having a car this old I have learned that you spend the extra money and do everything right the first time!
thanks for confirming my suspicion.
actually, now that I think about it. I have bought two URO door seals about two years ago. They actually didnt fit very well and now they need to be replaced.
Purplecomputer
04-13-2014, 12:29 PM #511(04-13-2014, 12:03 PM)Greazzer STAY AWAY FROM URO. EXCLUDE ALL THE HYPE ON THE OTHER FORUMS. My current DD has Uro parts and I doubt they are more than two years or so old and every piece of rubber is rotten. I have to do my front end, but most likely in the fall. Assuming time is a commodity, then why go thru the long weekend making everything new again only for it to fail within a year versus 10 years ? Buy German. Look around on Autohauz AZ, Ebay, and price shop during your market research. $600 sounds about right, but it's worth it since you will have rotten rubber parts within 12-24 months if you buy Uro.
I figured as much. $150 fits right in my budget but having a car this old I have learned that you spend the extra money and do everything right the first time!
thanks for confirming my suspicion.
actually, now that I think about it. I have bought two URO door seals about two years ago. They actually didnt fit very well and now they need to be replaced.
04-13-2014, 07:28 PM
#512
After a flush, installing an e-fan, it's the best bang for buck on my low power DD. Just make sure you get the right temperature switch to trigger the relay. My fan RARELY kicks on even in the summer-only when I'm in stop & go.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-13-2014, 07:28 PM #512Flush the radiator, it's easy when the weather is warm and super easy if you have a garden hose.
After a flush, installing an e-fan, it's the best bang for buck on my low power DD. Just make sure you get the right temperature switch to trigger the relay. My fan RARELY kicks on even in the summer-only when I'm in stop & go.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-14-2014, 09:11 AM
#513
(04-13-2014, 07:28 PM)Simpler=Better Flush the radiator, it's easy when the weather is warm and super easy if you have a garden hose.
After a flush, installing an e-fan, it's the best bang for buck on my low power DD. Just make sure you get the right temperature switch to trigger the relay. My fan RARELY kicks on even in the summer-only when I'm in stop & go.
I'm going to follow diesel giants guide on a flush. The only thing is that he uses some citric acid powder. I feel like that's unnecessary considering he also used a detergent. Im guessing the acie helps to break away any build up as the detergent would have a harder time doing that.
Any fans y'all recommend?
Also this front suspension us getting worse and worse everyday. I drive about ~100 - 200 miles a day.
Purplecomputer
04-14-2014, 09:11 AM #513(04-13-2014, 07:28 PM)Simpler=Better Flush the radiator, it's easy when the weather is warm and super easy if you have a garden hose.
After a flush, installing an e-fan, it's the best bang for buck on my low power DD. Just make sure you get the right temperature switch to trigger the relay. My fan RARELY kicks on even in the summer-only when I'm in stop & go.
I'm going to follow diesel giants guide on a flush. The only thing is that he uses some citric acid powder. I feel like that's unnecessary considering he also used a detergent. Im guessing the acie helps to break away any build up as the detergent would have a harder time doing that.
Any fans y'all recommend?
Also this front suspension us getting worse and worse everyday. I drive about ~100 - 200 miles a day.
05-02-2014, 02:58 PM
#514
Install was a pain but I got both parts in.
The only issue is I have air in the system. Googled it.
aparently this is a common issue.
Tried all the bleeding techniques, no go. I even used a might vac.
To be fair though, the mighty vac I had was not complete and I was missing the proper hoses.
Might pick up a cheap one from HF.
all this after I got covered in brake fluid.
Purplecomputer
05-02-2014, 02:58 PM #514replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders as they both seemed to die on me at the same exact time!
Install was a pain but I got both parts in.
The only issue is I have air in the system. Googled it.
aparently this is a common issue.
Tried all the bleeding techniques, no go. I even used a might vac.
To be fair though, the mighty vac I had was not complete and I was missing the proper hoses.
Might pick up a cheap one from HF.
all this after I got covered in brake fluid.
05-02-2014, 08:25 PM
#515
Buy an oiler can from HF and pump fluid from teh bottom up that's the preferred way.
On the plus side, your skin is now extra soft because yo umelted the top 3 layers off.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-02-2014, 08:25 PM #515For an E fan Taurus's seem to be popular, reallly any fan that fits. WJ (2000-2004) jeeps have e fans too (or hydraulic fans)
Buy an oiler can from HF and pump fluid from teh bottom up that's the preferred way.
On the plus side, your skin is now extra soft because yo umelted the top 3 layers off.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
05-03-2014, 11:12 AM
#516
(05-02-2014, 08:25 PM)Simpler=Better For an E fan Taurus's seem to be popular, reallly any fan that fits. WJ (2000-2004) jeeps have e fans too (or hydraulic fans)
Buy an oiler can from HF and pump fluid from teh bottom up that's the preferred way.
On the plus side, your skin is now extra soft because yo umelted the top 3 layers off.
so what your saying is get the oiler can, fill it with brake fuild and attach it to the slave cylinder's nipple (lololololololol) and pump fluid??
also that stuff got in my eye. Ive been having really bad headaches ever since.
Purplecomputer
05-03-2014, 11:12 AM #516(05-02-2014, 08:25 PM)Simpler=Better For an E fan Taurus's seem to be popular, reallly any fan that fits. WJ (2000-2004) jeeps have e fans too (or hydraulic fans)
Buy an oiler can from HF and pump fluid from teh bottom up that's the preferred way.
On the plus side, your skin is now extra soft because yo umelted the top 3 layers off.
so what your saying is get the oiler can, fill it with brake fuild and attach it to the slave cylinder's nipple (lololololololol) and pump fluid??
also that stuff got in my eye. Ive been having really bad headaches ever since.
05-03-2014, 02:59 PM
#517
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-03-2014, 02:59 PM #517That trick with the can doesn't really work for shit for bleeding the clutch, been there done that. The official Mercedes method is to use a hose to connect the slave bleeder to the front passenger brake bleeder and use the brakes. Pretty much the only method I've read that works every time, also kind of a pain in the ass
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
05-04-2014, 11:20 AM
#518
(05-03-2014, 02:59 PM)sassparilla_kid That trick with the can doesn't really work for shit for bleeding the clutch, been there done that. The official Mercedes method is to use a hose to connect the slave bleeder to the front passenger brake bleeder and use the brakes. Pretty much the only method I've read that works every time, also kind of a pain in the ass
I saw that, I didnt have the right hose to try it. Im gonna get some today. Everyone says something different about bleeding the clutch. The car has been sitting and I just propped the clutch pedal all the way down with a pole for the past two days. Havent even been home to check it.
oh did I also mention I broke the nipple off the slave cylinder???
This post was last modified: 05-04-2014, 11:21 AM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
05-04-2014, 11:20 AM #518(05-03-2014, 02:59 PM)sassparilla_kid That trick with the can doesn't really work for shit for bleeding the clutch, been there done that. The official Mercedes method is to use a hose to connect the slave bleeder to the front passenger brake bleeder and use the brakes. Pretty much the only method I've read that works every time, also kind of a pain in the ass
I saw that, I didnt have the right hose to try it. Im gonna get some today. Everyone says something different about bleeding the clutch. The car has been sitting and I just propped the clutch pedal all the way down with a pole for the past two days. Havent even been home to check it.
oh did I also mention I broke the nipple off the slave cylinder???
05-05-2014, 10:27 AM
#519
Remember how I told you I broke the nipple? well in trying to get it off and using the old one, I drillled to far into the cylinder.
In a moment of anger I came to a realization.
Why not just take the parts from the new one and put them in the old one!
anyway it worked out really well. I was even able to bleed it according the FSM.
its still not as hard as it used to be. My dad told me to check vacuum lines so I did, I found a cracked on and one that wasnt hooked up but I havent driven the car since I fixed that this morning at my jobs parking lot.
Ill report later.
Purplecomputer
05-05-2014, 10:27 AM #519So spent the day yesterday trying to fix my mess.
Remember how I told you I broke the nipple? well in trying to get it off and using the old one, I drillled to far into the cylinder.
In a moment of anger I came to a realization.
Why not just take the parts from the new one and put them in the old one!
anyway it worked out really well. I was even able to bleed it according the FSM.
its still not as hard as it used to be. My dad told me to check vacuum lines so I did, I found a cracked on and one that wasnt hooked up but I havent driven the car since I fixed that this morning at my jobs parking lot.
Ill report later.
05-05-2014, 11:42 AM
#520
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-05-2014, 11:42 AM #520glad you kinda got it sorted. we're all rooting for you kid!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
05-05-2014, 12:35 PM
#521
(05-05-2014, 11:42 AM)Simpler=Better glad you kinda got it sorted. we're all rooting for you kid!
Thanks!
Halfway through the drive the pedal got all mushy again.
It'd weird. Might have to take to to my mechanic because I'm just not sure what yo even try anymore. All the hoses are in place. I checked to leaks. Maybe I didn't bleed it long enough
Purplecomputer
05-05-2014, 12:35 PM #521(05-05-2014, 11:42 AM)Simpler=Better glad you kinda got it sorted. we're all rooting for you kid!
Thanks!
Halfway through the drive the pedal got all mushy again.
It'd weird. Might have to take to to my mechanic because I'm just not sure what yo even try anymore. All the hoses are in place. I checked to leaks. Maybe I didn't bleed it long enough
05-06-2014, 03:43 PM
#522
also whats been happening is that when I give it gas it dosnt really go anywhere.
Im kinda fed of with this issue rn.
Purplecomputer
05-06-2014, 03:43 PM #522Been bleeding it for about two or three days now. Still all soft and mushy.
also whats been happening is that when I give it gas it dosnt really go anywhere.
Im kinda fed of with this issue rn.
05-06-2014, 04:00 PM
#523
W116 om611
I had the same problem with an old range rover. Did a manual trans swap from auto. Took a few days to bleed the slave properly but would go mushy after a while. No sign of leaking and reservoir level didnt drop. I put in a new slave cylinder and that fixed the problem. It must have been drawing in air somewhere.
W116 om611
05-06-2014, 04:36 PM
#524
(05-06-2014, 04:00 PM)Dieselsec I had the same problem with an old range rover. Did a manual trans swap from auto. Took a few days to bleed the slave properly but would go mushy after a while. No sign of leaking and reservoir level didnt drop. I put in a new slave cylinder and that fixed the problem. It must have been drawing in air somewhere.
I just gave up and dropped it off at my trusty mechanic. I have finals and I cant be worrying about this. Spend all day working on the car when I should have been studying! MY FUTURE IS AT STAKE!
Purplecomputer
05-06-2014, 04:36 PM #524(05-06-2014, 04:00 PM)Dieselsec I had the same problem with an old range rover. Did a manual trans swap from auto. Took a few days to bleed the slave properly but would go mushy after a while. No sign of leaking and reservoir level didnt drop. I put in a new slave cylinder and that fixed the problem. It must have been drawing in air somewhere.
I just gave up and dropped it off at my trusty mechanic. I have finals and I cant be worrying about this. Spend all day working on the car when I should have been studying! MY FUTURE IS AT STAKE!
05-07-2014, 07:26 AM
#525
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
05-07-2014, 08:56 AM
#526
(05-07-2014, 07:26 AM)MFSuper90 I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book
Well one final is for an intro to windows 7 class. Im already certified in that stuff so I dont really need to study. The other is Network OS which consists of setting up a complete network from scratch with a server and set up a domain and all that jazz. I just set up a domain in my home for practice.
Never realized the control I get over everyone on the network with a server
Purplecomputer
05-07-2014, 08:56 AM #526(05-07-2014, 07:26 AM)MFSuper90 I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book
Well one final is for an intro to windows 7 class. Im already certified in that stuff so I dont really need to study. The other is Network OS which consists of setting up a complete network from scratch with a server and set up a domain and all that jazz. I just set up a domain in my home for practice.
Never realized the control I get over everyone on the network with a server
05-07-2014, 10:43 PM
#527
(05-07-2014, 08:56 AM)PurplecomputerI'm calling you when I get around to setting up my old desktop & craptops as servers on my home network. I want that shit to be boss!(05-07-2014, 07:26 AM)MFSuper90 I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book
Well one final is for an intro to windows 7 class. Im already certified in that stuff so I dont really need to study. The other is Network OS which consists of setting up a complete network from scratch with a server and set up a domain and all that jazz. I just set up a domain in my home for practice.
Never realized the control I get over everyone on the network with a server
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-07-2014, 10:43 PM #527(05-07-2014, 08:56 AM)PurplecomputerI'm calling you when I get around to setting up my old desktop & craptops as servers on my home network. I want that shit to be boss!(05-07-2014, 07:26 AM)MFSuper90 I didn't study for a single final this semester, and ended up with a 3.2 GPA!
Studying is overrated, or maybe its just because 4 out of my 5 finals were open book
Well one final is for an intro to windows 7 class. Im already certified in that stuff so I dont really need to study. The other is Network OS which consists of setting up a complete network from scratch with a server and set up a domain and all that jazz. I just set up a domain in my home for practice.
Never realized the control I get over everyone on the network with a server
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
05-10-2014, 01:08 PM
#528
[/quote]
I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!
Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.
lol
Purplecomputer
05-10-2014, 01:08 PM #528I'm calling you when I get around to setting up my old desktop & craptops as servers on my home network. I want that shit to be boss!
[/quote]
I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!
Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.
lol
05-10-2014, 06:18 PM
#529
(05-10-2014, 01:08 PM)Purplecomputer I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!
Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.
lol
how are they determining the clutch needs to be replaced? did they bleed the full system and get it reliable?
A questionable clutch can be milked essentially forever, and when you need to do it, its ridiculously easy on a 240. Don't let them do it, just get the car back and see how you think about their diagnosis.
I have had a 240 gearbox out of a 115 and into a 123 in under 45 minutes in a big rush on jack stands, just to give you an idea on how manageable the light 4-speeds are.
As an example, in my 83 240, i threw a rusty clutch in there that was shipped to me free with a flywheel some years back. Still had some meat on it though. I also threw in a used release bearing, and some other crapola lying around the shop. Basically I did everything that you really shouldn't do, and the release bearing has been making noise the entire time, but ive put almost 20k on this arrangement by being nice to it.
This post was last modified: 05-10-2014, 06:26 PM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(05-10-2014, 01:08 PM)Purplecomputer I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!
Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.
lol
how are they determining the clutch needs to be replaced? did they bleed the full system and get it reliable?
A questionable clutch can be milked essentially forever, and when you need to do it, its ridiculously easy on a 240. Don't let them do it, just get the car back and see how you think about their diagnosis.
I have had a 240 gearbox out of a 115 and into a 123 in under 45 minutes in a big rush on jack stands, just to give you an idea on how manageable the light 4-speeds are.
As an example, in my 83 240, i threw a rusty clutch in there that was shipped to me free with a flywheel some years back. Still had some meat on it though. I also threw in a used release bearing, and some other crapola lying around the shop. Basically I did everything that you really shouldn't do, and the release bearing has been making noise the entire time, but ive put almost 20k on this arrangement by being nice to it.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
05-11-2014, 12:08 PM
#530
(05-10-2014, 06:18 PM)JB3(05-10-2014, 01:08 PM)Purplecomputer I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!
Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.
lol
how are they determining the clutch needs to be replaced? did they bleed the full system and get it reliable?
A questionable clutch can be milked essentially forever, and when you need to do it, its ridiculously easy on a 240. Don't let them do it, just get the car back and see how you think about their diagnosis.
I have had a 240 gearbox out of a 115 and into a 123 in under 45 minutes in a big rush on jack stands, just to give you an idea on how manageable the light 4-speeds are.
As an example, in my 83 240, i threw a rusty clutch in there that was shipped to me free with a flywheel some years back. Still had some meat on it though. I also threw in a used release bearing, and some other crapola lying around the shop. Basically I did everything that you really shouldn't do, and the release bearing has been making noise the entire time, but ive put almost 20k on this arrangement by being nice to it.
He bled the system, drove it and told me the clutch was slipping. For me I would give it gas, the engine would rev up but the car wouldnt go anywhere. If you let go of the pedal, it would kinda clunk and jerk back and forth.
I really wouldn't mind doing this job myself but my garage is in complete chaos, my dad moved out and my mom just kinda stuck all of his stuff in there along with all the tools. Its a mess. I also dont have a good jack. But i do suppose it is cheaper then paying $350 for labor.
at this point is $350 to not worry about being on my back all day and sweating and possibly focusing on other work that's been held back or risking a few days to install a clutch which is something I have never done before and save $350
so i dunno guys. Not to complain but I am going to, I just have a lot of shit going on in my life and i just need a break from something, even if I have to pay a little. Maybe I can work out a payment plan with him or fix some computers.
Purplecomputer
05-11-2014, 12:08 PM #530(05-10-2014, 06:18 PM)JB3(05-10-2014, 01:08 PM)Purplecomputer I would be more then happy to help you set up a network. More practice for me!
Just got a call back from the mechanic. Turns out I had a shitload of air in the system and to top it off my clutch needs to be replaced. They havent given me an estimate because they werent sure I wanted to put money into the car.
lol
how are they determining the clutch needs to be replaced? did they bleed the full system and get it reliable?
A questionable clutch can be milked essentially forever, and when you need to do it, its ridiculously easy on a 240. Don't let them do it, just get the car back and see how you think about their diagnosis.
I have had a 240 gearbox out of a 115 and into a 123 in under 45 minutes in a big rush on jack stands, just to give you an idea on how manageable the light 4-speeds are.
As an example, in my 83 240, i threw a rusty clutch in there that was shipped to me free with a flywheel some years back. Still had some meat on it though. I also threw in a used release bearing, and some other crapola lying around the shop. Basically I did everything that you really shouldn't do, and the release bearing has been making noise the entire time, but ive put almost 20k on this arrangement by being nice to it.
He bled the system, drove it and told me the clutch was slipping. For me I would give it gas, the engine would rev up but the car wouldnt go anywhere. If you let go of the pedal, it would kinda clunk and jerk back and forth.
I really wouldn't mind doing this job myself but my garage is in complete chaos, my dad moved out and my mom just kinda stuck all of his stuff in there along with all the tools. Its a mess. I also dont have a good jack. But i do suppose it is cheaper then paying $350 for labor.
at this point is $350 to not worry about being on my back all day and sweating and possibly focusing on other work that's been held back or risking a few days to install a clutch which is something I have never done before and save $350
so i dunno guys. Not to complain but I am going to, I just have a lot of shit going on in my life and i just need a break from something, even if I have to pay a little. Maybe I can work out a payment plan with him or fix some computers.
05-11-2014, 05:31 PM
#531
I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.
with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
350 isnt bad.
I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.
with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
05-12-2014, 09:30 AM
#532
(05-11-2014, 05:31 PM)JB3 350 isnt bad.
I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.
with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch
My coworker said that is reasonable too. He told me clutch jobs are usually very expensive especially when the word Mercedes is involved.
And this guy has never ripped me off and has even let me walk into the garage and show me what exactly is going on.
He's just been super busy, being reasonable and a good mechanic made him very successful so he's always swamped with work.
I'll see you guys in like a month.
Purplecomputer
05-12-2014, 09:30 AM #532(05-11-2014, 05:31 PM)JB3 350 isnt bad.
I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.
with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch
My coworker said that is reasonable too. He told me clutch jobs are usually very expensive especially when the word Mercedes is involved.
And this guy has never ripped me off and has even let me walk into the garage and show me what exactly is going on.
He's just been super busy, being reasonable and a good mechanic made him very successful so he's always swamped with work.
I'll see you guys in like a month.
05-14-2014, 09:48 AM
#533
(05-12-2014, 09:30 AM)Purplecomputer(05-11-2014, 05:31 PM)JB3 350 isnt bad.
I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.
with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch
My coworker said that is reasonable too. He told me clutch jobs are usually very expensive especially when the word Mercedes is involved.
And this guy has never ripped me off and has even let me walk into the garage and show me what exactly is going on.
He's just been super busy, being reasonable and a good mechanic made him very successful so he's always swamped with work.
I'll see you guys in like a month.
This is exactly the kind of shop that you need to fix his computers for to get a relationship going.
Hell get in there and artic silver/ dust/ malwarebytes/ adblock a machine or two and show him how much faster it is after tweaking. Will almost definitely get him to knock a little off the price; maybe tell his friends.
Paying for work is OK as long as you're not getting ripped.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-14-2014, 09:48 AM #533(05-12-2014, 09:30 AM)Purplecomputer(05-11-2014, 05:31 PM)JB3 350 isnt bad.
I was thinking this was gonna be a 700 to 800 dollar labor quote to repair which is what ive gotten with similarly simple un requested quotes. Guy sounds reasonable.
with parts around 500 is not a bad price to have a new clutch
My coworker said that is reasonable too. He told me clutch jobs are usually very expensive especially when the word Mercedes is involved.
And this guy has never ripped me off and has even let me walk into the garage and show me what exactly is going on.
He's just been super busy, being reasonable and a good mechanic made him very successful so he's always swamped with work.
I'll see you guys in like a month.
This is exactly the kind of shop that you need to fix his computers for to get a relationship going.
Hell get in there and artic silver/ dust/ malwarebytes/ adblock a machine or two and show him how much faster it is after tweaking. Will almost definitely get him to knock a little off the price; maybe tell his friends.
Paying for work is OK as long as you're not getting ripped.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
05-14-2014, 03:15 PM
#534
This post was last modified: 05-14-2014, 03:19 PM by Tito.
A good mechanic can do this job in about 4 hours max. Mercedes' boxes are easy to take off and install. I don't know how much the labor is per hour over there but if it's for that amount of time it's okay. And it'll keep you off any troubles fitting the clutch and box.
05-16-2014, 04:33 PM
#535
pickup is noticeably better.
Weird thing is though that the clutch pedal kinda gets "stuck half way between and makes for very uncomfortable gear changing. Im betting my money its got to do with that "Rebuilt" slave cylinder I made using the old housing with new parts.
Id be better off buying another one, now that I have mastered the install it should be a breeze to change.
Purplecomputer
05-16-2014, 04:33 PM #535Got my car back. Drives good. Mechanic showed me the old clutch stuff, It was bad.
pickup is noticeably better.
Weird thing is though that the clutch pedal kinda gets "stuck half way between and makes for very uncomfortable gear changing. Im betting my money its got to do with that "Rebuilt" slave cylinder I made using the old housing with new parts.
Id be better off buying another one, now that I have mastered the install it should be a breeze to change.
05-16-2014, 05:46 PM
#536
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-16-2014, 05:46 PM #536Sounds like it needs more bleeding? also there is a spring on the clutch pedal that can get out of wack
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-16-2014, 06:27 PM
#537
(05-16-2014, 05:46 PM)willbhere4u Sounds like it needs more bleeding? also there is a spring on the clutch pedal that can get out of wack
Actually, after driving it some more. I think the spring is the culprit. That hallway sponginess.
Well after that point you can feel when you're pushing down the piston inside the master cylinder. Its like as if its not flush against it. I'll mess with that.
You're a genius!!!
Purplecomputer
05-16-2014, 06:27 PM #537(05-16-2014, 05:46 PM)willbhere4u Sounds like it needs more bleeding? also there is a spring on the clutch pedal that can get out of wack
Actually, after driving it some more. I think the spring is the culprit. That hallway sponginess.
Well after that point you can feel when you're pushing down the piston inside the master cylinder. Its like as if its not flush against it. I'll mess with that.
You're a genius!!!
05-20-2014, 09:15 AM
#538
The primer I bought was already pre mixed. It was from autozone. After reading reviews from amazon and saw that it was a good deal I went for it. This is how the primer turned out. I used some body filler to fill in some dings.
This was my first time working with the stuff. I still have to wet sand it and possibly add another coat.
![[Image: IMG_20140519_112855_zpsdcqdfrtz.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140519_112855_zpsdcqdfrtz.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20140519_112901_zpsjxyrxeze.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140519_112901_zpsjxyrxeze.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20140519_112923_zpsiazkfeqc.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140519_112923_zpsiazkfeqc.jpg)
looks better now that they are at least close in color/tone.
Working on the trunk right now. I had some rust that I wanted to take care of.
I also want to lower the car a bit. Not much.
I have already made my mind about Bilsten HD's but Im not 100 % sure if I should stick with the 240D springs and cut those or get 300D springs and cut those.
Right now, taking a corner, the car is all mushy and shit and I feel like Im about to roll over, I want the feel of tightness around corners.
This post was last modified: 05-20-2014, 11:11 AM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
05-20-2014, 09:15 AM #538Started to paint the fender. Would complete the process but I dont have a reducer or hardener for the paint.
The primer I bought was already pre mixed. It was from autozone. After reading reviews from amazon and saw that it was a good deal I went for it. This is how the primer turned out. I used some body filler to fill in some dings.
This was my first time working with the stuff. I still have to wet sand it and possibly add another coat.
looks better now that they are at least close in color/tone.
Working on the trunk right now. I had some rust that I wanted to take care of.
I also want to lower the car a bit. Not much.
I have already made my mind about Bilsten HD's but Im not 100 % sure if I should stick with the 240D springs and cut those or get 300D springs and cut those.
Right now, taking a corner, the car is all mushy and shit and I feel like Im about to roll over, I want the feel of tightness around corners.
05-20-2014, 12:00 PM
#539
This post was last modified: 05-20-2014, 12:02 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-20-2014, 12:00 PM #539The Bilsten HD will help loads! i also got a new Bilsten steering dampener that helped steering feel a lot also as my old one was shot
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-20-2014, 01:18 PM
#540
(05-20-2014, 12:00 PM)willbhere4u The Bilsten HD will help loads! i also got a new Bilsten steering dampener that helped steering feel a lot also as my old one was shot
Cant wait to slap some on, I should have just spent the extra money when i first swapped out my shocks. I went with cheap kyb (?) shocks and they ended up going back a year later.
any thoughts on springs? or can I get away with my current springs. the less money I have to spend the better.
Purplecomputer
05-20-2014, 01:18 PM #540(05-20-2014, 12:00 PM)willbhere4u The Bilsten HD will help loads! i also got a new Bilsten steering dampener that helped steering feel a lot also as my old one was shot
Cant wait to slap some on, I should have just spent the extra money when i first swapped out my shocks. I went with cheap kyb (?) shocks and they ended up going back a year later.
any thoughts on springs? or can I get away with my current springs. the less money I have to spend the better.
05-20-2014, 02:32 PM
#541
This way you get practice before you botch up a pair of 300d springs the 300d spring will make it ride very high up front and will need way more cut off than the 240d springs.
if the 240 springs and Bilsten shocks are not stiff enough then try the 300d springs but I think you will be happy with the 240d springs and the hd installed
This post was last modified: 05-20-2014, 02:36 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-20-2014, 02:32 PM #541When you cut the stock springs they get stiffer less coils = more stiff The 240d springs should work nicely cut a little at a time and use a cut off wheel easy way is to jack it up use a spring compressor and then cut it take the compressor off lower the car down roll it around to settle the suspension maybe Evan drive it around the block and repeat until you like it. I would start with 1 coil. and probably wouldn't go past 2 coils total.
This way you get practice before you botch up a pair of 300d springs the 300d spring will make it ride very high up front and will need way more cut off than the 240d springs.
if the 240 springs and Bilsten shocks are not stiff enough then try the 300d springs but I think you will be happy with the 240d springs and the hd installed
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-20-2014, 02:40 PM
#542
(05-20-2014, 02:32 PM)willbhere4u When you cut the stock springs they get stiffer less coils = more stiff The 240d springs should work nicely cut a little at a time and use a cut off wheel easy way is to jack it up use a spring compressor and then cut it take the compressor off lower the car down roll it around to settle the suspension maybe Evan drive it around the block and repeat until you like it. I would start with 1 coil. and probably wouldn't go past 2 coils total.
This way you get practice before you botch up a pair of 300d springs the 300d spring will make it ride very high up front and will need way more cut off than the 240d springs.
if the 240 springs and Bilsten shocks are not stiff enough then try the 300d springs but I think you will be happy with the 240d springs and the hd installed
Thanks for the input. I will give this a try when I have enough to buy the shocks.
So with this method, I wont have to remove the rear springs at all? Im just compressing them, cutting them and testing.
Purplecomputer
05-20-2014, 02:40 PM #542(05-20-2014, 02:32 PM)willbhere4u When you cut the stock springs they get stiffer less coils = more stiff The 240d springs should work nicely cut a little at a time and use a cut off wheel easy way is to jack it up use a spring compressor and then cut it take the compressor off lower the car down roll it around to settle the suspension maybe Evan drive it around the block and repeat until you like it. I would start with 1 coil. and probably wouldn't go past 2 coils total.
This way you get practice before you botch up a pair of 300d springs the 300d spring will make it ride very high up front and will need way more cut off than the 240d springs.
if the 240 springs and Bilsten shocks are not stiff enough then try the 300d springs but I think you will be happy with the 240d springs and the hd installed
Thanks for the input. I will give this a try when I have enough to buy the shocks.
So with this method, I wont have to remove the rear springs at all? Im just compressing them, cutting them and testing.
05-20-2014, 03:06 PM
#543
This post was last modified: 05-20-2014, 03:08 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-20-2014, 03:06 PM #543In theory yes I have only done the fronts that way but if there is enough room in the rear it may also be doable.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-29-2014, 03:51 PM
#544
dont buy parts from autozone, especially a master clutch and slave cylinder. THEY SUCK!
turns out my whole problem with the clutch pedal not return had to do with the fact that the little pistons inside the master and slave cylinders were not returning to their rest position but instead getting stuck in the middle of the cylinder.
I took the rubber parts off the new ones and put the one the old ones, bled the system in like 5 minutes and BAM, everything is back to normal.
going to see if i can return those parts.
edit: trying not to curse as much
This post was last modified: 05-29-2014, 03:52 PM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
05-29-2014, 03:51 PM #544SO
dont buy parts from autozone, especially a master clutch and slave cylinder. THEY SUCK!
turns out my whole problem with the clutch pedal not return had to do with the fact that the little pistons inside the master and slave cylinders were not returning to their rest position but instead getting stuck in the middle of the cylinder.
I took the rubber parts off the new ones and put the one the old ones, bled the system in like 5 minutes and BAM, everything is back to normal.
going to see if i can return those parts.
edit: trying not to curse as much
05-29-2014, 05:31 PM
#545
a lot of that stuff can also be rebuilt witch is Evan better.
This post was last modified: 05-29-2014, 05:39 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-29-2014, 05:31 PM #545Yea always buy MB approved or German parts if possible. The cheap junk from auto zone or china sucks balls! good quality parts will last almost 30 years with no problems. The china junk is almost always bad after a year or so. Pay more now to pay less later kinda thing a lot of that stuff can also be rebuilt witch is Evan better.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-30-2014, 07:30 AM
#546
(05-29-2014, 05:31 PM)willbhere4u Yea always buy MB approved or German parts if possible. The cheap junk from auto zone or china sucks balls! good quality parts will last almost 30 years with no problems. The china junk is almost always bad after a year or so. Pay more now to pay less later kinda thing
Ive bought parts from them before and they have held up so I figured why not.
Funnny thing is, All i really needed was to clean them and replace the rubber boots. Looks like it was my clutch this whole time and I probably didnt even need to replace them.
I should probably get new rotors then. I bought them off ebay like three years ago. Suprised they havent split in two.
This post was last modified: 05-30-2014, 07:31 AM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
05-30-2014, 07:30 AM #546(05-29-2014, 05:31 PM)willbhere4u Yea always buy MB approved or German parts if possible. The cheap junk from auto zone or china sucks balls! good quality parts will last almost 30 years with no problems. The china junk is almost always bad after a year or so. Pay more now to pay less later kinda thing
Ive bought parts from them before and they have held up so I figured why not.
Funnny thing is, All i really needed was to clean them and replace the rubber boots. Looks like it was my clutch this whole time and I probably didnt even need to replace them.
I should probably get new rotors then. I bought them off ebay like three years ago. Suprised they havent split in two.
05-30-2014, 11:13 AM
#547
(05-30-2014, 07:30 AM)Purplecomputer Ive bought parts from them before and they have held up so I figured why not.
I should probably get new rotors then. I bought them off ebay like three years ago. Surprised they haven't split in two.
Rotors are really just a round block of metal I've bought Chinese rotors with out any real issues before some times they come warped and need machining but they are getting better about that. Lately I have not had any issues. They can wear faster sometimes the metal may be a Little softer then the originals kinda a crap shoot but with how cheap they are you can replace them easy enough after a couple sets of pads. I usually ran through one set of pads and if i had no vibration issues i will pad slap them again and then replace the rotors after a 2nd or 3rd set of pads or if they needed machining. But I always buy quality brake pads usually EBC black if available. I try to stay away form the cross drilled and slotted rotors as they wear really fast IMO.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-30-2014, 11:13 AM #547(05-30-2014, 07:30 AM)Purplecomputer Ive bought parts from them before and they have held up so I figured why not.
I should probably get new rotors then. I bought them off ebay like three years ago. Surprised they haven't split in two.
Rotors are really just a round block of metal I've bought Chinese rotors with out any real issues before some times they come warped and need machining but they are getting better about that. Lately I have not had any issues. They can wear faster sometimes the metal may be a Little softer then the originals kinda a crap shoot but with how cheap they are you can replace them easy enough after a couple sets of pads. I usually ran through one set of pads and if i had no vibration issues i will pad slap them again and then replace the rotors after a 2nd or 3rd set of pads or if they needed machining. But I always buy quality brake pads usually EBC black if available. I try to stay away form the cross drilled and slotted rotors as they wear really fast IMO.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-30-2014, 02:25 PM
#548
(05-29-2014, 03:51 PM)Purplecomputer SO
dont buy parts from autozone, especially a master clutch and slave cylinder. THEY SUCK!
turns out my whole problem with the clutch pedal not return had to do with the fact that the little pistons inside the master and slave cylinders were not returning to their rest position but instead getting stuck in the middle of the cylinder.
I took the rubber parts off the new ones and put the one the old ones, bled the system in like 5 minutes and BAM, everything is back to normal.
going to see if i can return those parts.
edit: trying not to curse as much
If the shitty AZ parts didn't fucking work the first goddamn time, return those assholes. Be polite but persistent with the kid at the counter, he's just trying to make a dime.
Also,
much fender
yellow doge
wow
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-30-2014, 02:25 PM #548(05-29-2014, 03:51 PM)Purplecomputer SO
dont buy parts from autozone, especially a master clutch and slave cylinder. THEY SUCK!
turns out my whole problem with the clutch pedal not return had to do with the fact that the little pistons inside the master and slave cylinders were not returning to their rest position but instead getting stuck in the middle of the cylinder.
I took the rubber parts off the new ones and put the one the old ones, bled the system in like 5 minutes and BAM, everything is back to normal.
going to see if i can return those parts.
edit: trying not to curse as much
If the shitty AZ parts didn't fucking work the first goddamn time, return those assholes. Be polite but persistent with the kid at the counter, he's just trying to make a dime.
Also,
much fender
yellow doge
wow
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
05-30-2014, 05:50 PM
#549
Quote:If the shitty AZ parts didn't fucking work the first goddamn time, return those assholes. Be polite but persistent with the kid at the counter, he's just trying to make a dime.
Also,
much fender
yellow doge
wow
Ugh, i tried returning them at AZ and the manager was a SUPER DOUCHE
All he could "do" was get me another part. I kept trying to explain the fact that I didnt want another shitty part and I want my money back. He was persistent and actually made me start being a dick, but he wouldn't budge.
He also kept saying "Thats all on you" and "Its your decision blah blah blah"
I kept telling him that my decision was to get my money back and that I didnt want another rebuilt duralast product.
A few phone calls later Im leaving a pretty upset voice-mail for the regional CEO of AZ. Supposed to get in touch with me today or tomorrow.
Gonna say a few nice things about that manager and the shitty parts they sold me (spent like $100, thats a fortune for me right now!!)
Once I get this ladies phone number you guys should phone/text bomb her.
This post was last modified: 05-30-2014, 05:50 PM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
05-30-2014, 05:50 PM #549Quote:If the shitty AZ parts didn't fucking work the first goddamn time, return those assholes. Be polite but persistent with the kid at the counter, he's just trying to make a dime.
Also,
much fender
yellow doge
wow
Ugh, i tried returning them at AZ and the manager was a SUPER DOUCHE
All he could "do" was get me another part. I kept trying to explain the fact that I didnt want another shitty part and I want my money back. He was persistent and actually made me start being a dick, but he wouldn't budge.
He also kept saying "Thats all on you" and "Its your decision blah blah blah"
I kept telling him that my decision was to get my money back and that I didnt want another rebuilt duralast product.
A few phone calls later Im leaving a pretty upset voice-mail for the regional CEO of AZ. Supposed to get in touch with me today or tomorrow.
Gonna say a few nice things about that manager and the shitty parts they sold me (spent like $100, thats a fortune for me right now!!)
Once I get this ladies phone number you guys should phone/text bomb her.
06-02-2014, 10:10 AM
#550
![[Image: IMG_20140601_191349_zpshpibsojh.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140601_191349_zpshpibsojh.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20140601_191355_zpszfh3hv5g.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140601_191355_zpszfh3hv5g.jpg)
decided to just keep the 240D badge and cover up the diesel one. Also fixed some rust on the trunk
![[Image: IMG_20140601_191411_zpsw54cyygg.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140601_191411_zpsw54cyygg.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20140601_191415_zps1990e5ra.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140601_191415_zps1990e5ra.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20140601_191422_zps4ivowunt.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140601_191422_zps4ivowunt.jpg)
should have spent some more time prepping the surface before ever laying down primer but whatever
![[Image: IMG_20140601_172008_zpsi0xvu4rp.jpg]](http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/links156/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140601_172008_zpsi0xvu4rp.jpg)
This post was last modified: 06-02-2014, 10:11 AM by Purplecomputer.
Purplecomputer
06-02-2014, 10:10 AM #550Fixed
decided to just keep the 240D badge and cover up the diesel one. Also fixed some rust on the trunk
should have spent some more time prepping the surface before ever laying down primer but whatever
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