OM606 into W108 280SE
OM606 into W108 280SE
I'm just starting off a project putting this:
![[Image: P1010220_zpsc4082d89.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/P1010220_zpsc4082d89.jpg)
into this:
![[Image: Merc1_zpsddfdf629.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/Merc1_zpsddfdf629.jpg)
Currently, the 606 is sitting on the floor of my garage. The ECU has been "doctored" so that it starts and runs without the E300 which owned it being connected. Its completely standard in terms of turbo and injector pump, does it still qualify as "Super"?
I have a manual, 6 speed 716.605 gearbox whic hcame out of a 2003 C200 Kompressor, and have just ordered a sprinter flywheel and clutch kit in order to join the two together. This week, I hope to start pulling the V8 out of the 280SE to make some room for its diesel replacement!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Hi folks,
I'm just starting off a project putting this:
into this:
Currently, the 606 is sitting on the floor of my garage. The ECU has been "doctored" so that it starts and runs without the E300 which owned it being connected. Its completely standard in terms of turbo and injector pump, does it still qualify as "Super"?
I have a manual, 6 speed 716.605 gearbox whic hcame out of a 2003 C200 Kompressor, and have just ordered a sprinter flywheel and clutch kit in order to join the two together. This week, I hope to start pulling the V8 out of the 280SE to make some room for its diesel replacement!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Is the gearbox fitted with a normal slave and arm or a concentric job?
I have a MB six speed box with a concentric slave and I’m struggling to find a hose/hose end that connects to the slave. It’s a clip retained push fit job.
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
04-29-2014, 09:24 AM #2Cracking Project.
Is the gearbox fitted with a normal slave and arm or a concentric job?
I have a MB six speed box with a concentric slave and I’m struggling to find a hose/hose end that connects to the slave. It’s a clip retained push fit job.
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
(04-29-2014, 09:24 AM)maxypriest Cracking Project.
Is the gearbox fitted with a normal slave and arm or a concentric job?
I have a MB six speed box with a concentric slave and I’m struggling to find a hose/hose end that connects to the slave. It’s a clip retained push fit job.
Max
Thanks Max, concentric slave cylinder fitted to mine, it has all the hoses fitted and I got the master cylinder too, so hopefully it all goes together. To be honest, I haven't looked at all of that yet. I'm sure I'll figure something out! I'll have to check it when I go home later now that you have me thinking about it!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(04-29-2014, 09:24 AM)maxypriest Cracking Project.
Is the gearbox fitted with a normal slave and arm or a concentric job?
I have a MB six speed box with a concentric slave and I’m struggling to find a hose/hose end that connects to the slave. It’s a clip retained push fit job.
Max
Thanks Max, concentric slave cylinder fitted to mine, it has all the hoses fitted and I got the master cylinder too, so hopefully it all goes together. To be honest, I haven't looked at all of that yet. I'm sure I'll figure something out! I'll have to check it when I go home later now that you have me thinking about it!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
The old 280SE was very reluctant to give up its 3.5L V8. It looks like the designers intended for the engine & 'box to come out through the bottom of the car. Well, I don't have the head room nor the equipent to get the car that high up, so I had to pull the gearbox out from under the car and then lift the engine straight up. It was a real pain getting it all out as every electrical connector was corroded solid, the bolts holding the 'box to the engine were all but inaccessible, the exhaust joints had all rusted solid and I couldn't upen the connections to the oil cooler and didn't want to cut them.
Anyway, it's out now!
![[Image: re_P1010225_zpsbb6c063b.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/re_P1010225_zpsbb6c063b.jpg)
I haven't made a detailed study yet, but some stuff I've found out over the weekend:
The 280SE engine bay is about 3cm narrower than the E300 donor car. This shouldn't be a big problem.
The manual gearbox I intend to use is about 11cm shorter than the auto I'm removing. no problem in terms of mounting, but I'll need to extend the prop shaft to meet it.
The rad from the donor is way too big. I'll wait to see what space is like with the new engine fitted before doing naything drastic, but I might have to go buy an aftermarket one.
It looks like the steering box in the 280SE is enormous and might get in the way of the exhaust, but again, I'll see what its like with the engine fitted. I might even explore the possibility of insalling the rack out of the E300 if it works out anyway handy as the old steering box is incontinent and making a mess of my garage floor.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
I bought a bunch of brownie points with an iPad last week. I've been cashing them in hand over fist over the long weekend, and made some more good progress!
The old 280SE was very reluctant to give up its 3.5L V8. It looks like the designers intended for the engine & 'box to come out through the bottom of the car. Well, I don't have the head room nor the equipent to get the car that high up, so I had to pull the gearbox out from under the car and then lift the engine straight up. It was a real pain getting it all out as every electrical connector was corroded solid, the bolts holding the 'box to the engine were all but inaccessible, the exhaust joints had all rusted solid and I couldn't upen the connections to the oil cooler and didn't want to cut them.
Anyway, it's out now!
I haven't made a detailed study yet, but some stuff I've found out over the weekend:
The 280SE engine bay is about 3cm narrower than the E300 donor car. This shouldn't be a big problem.
The manual gearbox I intend to use is about 11cm shorter than the auto I'm removing. no problem in terms of mounting, but I'll need to extend the prop shaft to meet it.
The rad from the donor is way too big. I'll wait to see what space is like with the new engine fitted before doing naything drastic, but I might have to go buy an aftermarket one.
It looks like the steering box in the 280SE is enormous and might get in the way of the exhaust, but again, I'll see what its like with the engine fitted. I might even explore the possibility of insalling the rack out of the E300 if it works out anyway handy as the old steering box is incontinent and making a mess of my garage floor.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
This is going to be a long post, I hope I've explained what's going on well enough for others to replicate it if they want to!
I'm not sure what you call this plate, but this is the original plate which had the ring gear attached to it and sat behind the torque convertor. You might or might not be able to see there are 6 tabs protruding from it which whizz past a sensor which I guess is for an engine speed feed to the ECU rather than a crank position.
![[Image: re_P1010229_zps3f169a12.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010229_zps3f169a12.jpg)
The ring with the tabs on it looks pretty crude, but it was obviously machined after being welded on to make it perfectly circular, at least on the outside!
![[Image: re_P1010230_zpse5c8f855.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010230_zpse5c8f855.jpg)
Anyhow, that bit is getting dumped as I'm changing to a manual gearbox. So, I bought one of this on a wing and a prayer. It was listed as a dual mass flywheel conversion kit for a Merc Sprinter van, 2.2CDI and others from 2002 to 2006:
![[Image: re_P1010227_zps4315c5b7.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010227_zps4315c5b7.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010228_zpsbb9e8148.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010228_zpsbb9e8148.jpg)
It contained all of these bits:
![[Image: re_P1010237_zpsafb8c6dd.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010237_zpsafb8c6dd.jpg)
The first problem I encountered was that there is a protruding flange on the end of the crank shaft, and a corresponding recess in the flywheel. The flange was 11.2mm and the recess only 10mm. This meant that the flywheel could not be tightened right up against the end of the crank, so the crank shaft flange was duly ground back to be shorter than the recess in the back of the flywheel.
![[Image: re_P1010235_zps1236de65.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010235_zps1236de65.jpg)
Problem number 2 is that the new flywheel is completely surrounded with ribs which, I can only suppose are used to generate a signal for the Merc Sprinter it was intended to be used in.
![[Image: re_P1010238_zps65dff908.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010238_zps65dff908.jpg)
These ribs also slightly contact the sensor. Plan "A" was to machine away the ribs I don't need in order to leave 6 remaining, simulating what was in place before, I could then put a spacer behind the sensor so that it didnt stick out so far and wasn't hit by the remaining ribs. The main issues with plan "A" were that the ribs weren't in the same place on the flywheel as the tabs on the original item (I'm not absolutely sure that there isn't some kind of timing function along with RPM!), and that I would then need to have the flywheel balanced.
I have a great engineering friend who came up with a far superior plan "B": We would drill the 6 'valleys' which correspond to the tabs we had removed, tap them and screw in bolts which would protrude above the existing ribs. We'd have to move the sensor even further out, but that's no big deal, and we wouldn't be disturbing the balance of the flywheel. So, to the implementation of plan "B".
We marked the valleys which were to be drilled and tapped, then mounted the flywheel on the engine. We turned down a big bolt so that it matched the shaft size of the sensor and would fit snugly in the sensors mounting hole. We then drilled a hole down the centre of the bolt and poked the bolt into the sensor hole. Now, we had a guide which we could use to make sure the holes we drilled were directly beneath where the sensor would be.
Here's the sensor fitment:
![[Image: re_P1010236_zpsdf1caf2a.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010236_zpsdf1caf2a.jpg)
and the bolt we guntered into a tool:
![[Image: re_P1010239_zps4f1f3198.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010239_zps4f1f3198.jpg)
and some drilling underway:
![[Image: re_P1010234_zpse83ba8da.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010234_zpse83ba8da.jpg)
Here's a bolt inserted in the hole. I plan to get longer bolts, loctite them home and then remove the heads so that the part left sticking out proud of the ribs is closer to the 5.5mm of the tabs which were originally present.
![[Image: re_P1010240_zpsd5256111.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010240_zpsd5256111.jpg)
Aside from these alterations, Everything else seems to work out in terms of the position of the bearing which accepts the end of the spigot shaft, the position of the clutch friction plate in relation to the splined part of the spigot shaft, and the position of the pressure plate in relation to the release bearing/concentric slave culinder which is mounted in the gearbox. Happy days!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Edit: Don't follow the instructions in this post, it didn't work! See how I got it working here.
This is going to be a long post, I hope I've explained what's going on well enough for others to replicate it if they want to!
I'm not sure what you call this plate, but this is the original plate which had the ring gear attached to it and sat behind the torque convertor. You might or might not be able to see there are 6 tabs protruding from it which whizz past a sensor which I guess is for an engine speed feed to the ECU rather than a crank position.
The ring with the tabs on it looks pretty crude, but it was obviously machined after being welded on to make it perfectly circular, at least on the outside!
Anyhow, that bit is getting dumped as I'm changing to a manual gearbox. So, I bought one of this on a wing and a prayer. It was listed as a dual mass flywheel conversion kit for a Merc Sprinter van, 2.2CDI and others from 2002 to 2006:
It contained all of these bits:
The first problem I encountered was that there is a protruding flange on the end of the crank shaft, and a corresponding recess in the flywheel. The flange was 11.2mm and the recess only 10mm. This meant that the flywheel could not be tightened right up against the end of the crank, so the crank shaft flange was duly ground back to be shorter than the recess in the back of the flywheel.
Problem number 2 is that the new flywheel is completely surrounded with ribs which, I can only suppose are used to generate a signal for the Merc Sprinter it was intended to be used in.
These ribs also slightly contact the sensor. Plan "A" was to machine away the ribs I don't need in order to leave 6 remaining, simulating what was in place before, I could then put a spacer behind the sensor so that it didnt stick out so far and wasn't hit by the remaining ribs. The main issues with plan "A" were that the ribs weren't in the same place on the flywheel as the tabs on the original item (I'm not absolutely sure that there isn't some kind of timing function along with RPM!), and that I would then need to have the flywheel balanced.
I have a great engineering friend who came up with a far superior plan "B": We would drill the 6 'valleys' which correspond to the tabs we had removed, tap them and screw in bolts which would protrude above the existing ribs. We'd have to move the sensor even further out, but that's no big deal, and we wouldn't be disturbing the balance of the flywheel. So, to the implementation of plan "B".
We marked the valleys which were to be drilled and tapped, then mounted the flywheel on the engine. We turned down a big bolt so that it matched the shaft size of the sensor and would fit snugly in the sensors mounting hole. We then drilled a hole down the centre of the bolt and poked the bolt into the sensor hole. Now, we had a guide which we could use to make sure the holes we drilled were directly beneath where the sensor would be.
Here's the sensor fitment:
and the bolt we guntered into a tool:
and some drilling underway:
Here's a bolt inserted in the hole. I plan to get longer bolts, loctite them home and then remove the heads so that the part left sticking out proud of the ribs is closer to the 5.5mm of the tabs which were originally present.
Aside from these alterations, Everything else seems to work out in terms of the position of the bearing which accepts the end of the spigot shaft, the position of the clutch friction plate in relation to the splined part of the spigot shaft, and the position of the pressure plate in relation to the release bearing/concentric slave culinder which is mounted in the gearbox. Happy days!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
The plate in your first picture would be called a flex plate here in the US. Bolts to the crank and torque converted.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
Awesome progress so far. I really like your project and would love to do something similar. Just not enough time in a week to even consider it right now.
The plate in your first picture would be called a flex plate here in the US. Bolts to the crank and torque converted.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
(05-08-2014, 09:50 AM)waz Awesome progress so far. I really like your project and would love to do something similar. Just not enough time in a week to even consider it right now.
The plate in your first picture would be called a flex plate here in the US. Bolts to the crank and torque converted.
Flex plate, that's the one! Time is my scarcest resource too, it's very frustrating, but I'm very determined!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(05-08-2014, 09:50 AM)waz Awesome progress so far. I really like your project and would love to do something similar. Just not enough time in a week to even consider it right now.
The plate in your first picture would be called a flex plate here in the US. Bolts to the crank and torque converted.
Flex plate, that's the one! Time is my scarcest resource too, it's very frustrating, but I'm very determined!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(05-11-2014, 10:37 PM)mario Seeing as she is a v8 car if you fit 4 tabs to the flywheel and then use the ignition module you will keep your tachometer. But lovely project as was the se manual.
Hi Mario,
There's no tacho on the dash, but I might install some kind of subtle aftermarket job somewhere.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(05-11-2014, 10:37 PM)mario Seeing as she is a v8 car if you fit 4 tabs to the flywheel and then use the ignition module you will keep your tachometer. But lovely project as was the se manual.
Hi Mario,
There's no tacho on the dash, but I might install some kind of subtle aftermarket job somewhere.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
The 124 tooth counter can be fitted to the 606 crank position sensor hole, which is the one you are playing with. Some mods needed.
And yes, you either need to trim the crank or recess the flywheel to fit a lot of flywheels!
Ps, your rear crank seal looks like it's working well! Mine is fairly oily.... Will have to replace....
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
05-12-2014, 01:08 PM #12W124 diesels tachos are driven by a sensor that counts the teeth on the flywheel. There is a company that supply's a gizmo that converts this signal to a normal tacho signal. On 124's this is right at the bottom of the bell housing.
The 124 tooth counter can be fitted to the 606 crank position sensor hole, which is the one you are playing with. Some mods needed.
And yes, you either need to trim the crank or recess the flywheel to fit a lot of flywheels!
Ps, your rear crank seal looks like it's working well! Mine is fairly oily.... Will have to replace....
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
(05-12-2014, 01:08 PM)maxypriest W124 diesels tachos are driven by a sensor that counts the teeth on the flywheel. There is a company that supply's a gizmo that converts this signal to a normal tacho signal. On 124's this is right at the bottom of the bell housing.
The 124 tooth counter can be fitted to the 606 crank position sensor hole, which is the one you are playing with. Some mods needed.
And yes, you either need to trim the crank or recess the flywheel to fit a lot of flywheels!
Ps, your rear crank seal looks like it's working well! Mine is fairly oily.... Will have to replace....
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/p...prd129.htm
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
05-13-2014, 08:00 AM #13(05-12-2014, 01:08 PM)maxypriest W124 diesels tachos are driven by a sensor that counts the teeth on the flywheel. There is a company that supply's a gizmo that converts this signal to a normal tacho signal. On 124's this is right at the bottom of the bell housing.
The 124 tooth counter can be fitted to the 606 crank position sensor hole, which is the one you are playing with. Some mods needed.
And yes, you either need to trim the crank or recess the flywheel to fit a lot of flywheels!
Ps, your rear crank seal looks like it's working well! Mine is fairly oily.... Will have to replace....
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/p...prd129.htm
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
It turns out that it isn't just the gear on the end of the starter which pos out to engage with the ring gear, most of the end of the starter comes with it!
![[Image: re_P1010241_zpsb139c309.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010241_zpsb139c309.jpg)
So, while the starter was engaged, the studs would whack straight into it and the flywheel do no more than 1/6 of a rotation.
Plan A was re-hashed to become plan C and required some more extreme flywheel modification. The studs which we had inserted were removed with great difficulty. The Loctite we used had "Extra Strong" or something along those lines written on the bottle. It was amazing, the studs were locked solid after only an hour ror two! So much so that 2 of them broke off when trying to get them out!
My friend set the flywheel up in his lathe and cut down all of the ribs from around the outer edge, then fitted new studs in the old holes and turned them down to the appropriate size.
Here's how it was before:
And after:
![[Image: re_P1010243_zps41273024.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010243_zps41273024.jpg)
And a closeup:
![[Image: re_P1010244_zps7601b839.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010244_zps7601b839.jpg)
Now the flywheel is re-attached, the RPM sensor located appropriately and the engine runs suspended from the engine crane! It's a bit cold, and smoky as a reslt, but works fine.
I don't know how to embed a video, but you can see the startup on youtube here.
To say that I'm a happy camper would be an understatement! So, now on with the rest of the work: making engine mounting brackets, making clutch pedal assembly, adapting drive shaft, etc...
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Well, plan B turned out to be a bit of a disaster! I attached the modified flywheel to the engine, and after setting the height of the RPM sensor so that my newly attached studs didn't hit it, we hooked up fuel and sealed up the oil & water pipes after a emptying a can of water in and seeing it flow across the floor! My self and a friend hoisted the engine up on the engine crane, hooked up a battery and hit ths starter. There was the usual click of the starter followed very closely by a thump, and the engine was locked solid!
It turns out that it isn't just the gear on the end of the starter which pos out to engage with the ring gear, most of the end of the starter comes with it!
So, while the starter was engaged, the studs would whack straight into it and the flywheel do no more than 1/6 of a rotation.
Plan A was re-hashed to become plan C and required some more extreme flywheel modification. The studs which we had inserted were removed with great difficulty. The Loctite we used had "Extra Strong" or something along those lines written on the bottle. It was amazing, the studs were locked solid after only an hour ror two! So much so that 2 of them broke off when trying to get them out!
My friend set the flywheel up in his lathe and cut down all of the ribs from around the outer edge, then fitted new studs in the old holes and turned them down to the appropriate size.
Here's how it was before:
And after:
And a closeup:
Now the flywheel is re-attached, the RPM sensor located appropriately and the engine runs suspended from the engine crane! It's a bit cold, and smoky as a reslt, but works fine.
I don't know how to embed a video, but you can see the startup on youtube here.
To say that I'm a happy camper would be an understatement! So, now on with the rest of the work: making engine mounting brackets, making clutch pedal assembly, adapting drive shaft, etc...
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Last night we dropped the engine in and attached the gearbox to it. The good news is that there's room for everything (just about). The tightest part is fitting the gearbox into the transmission tunnel. The manual 'box is higher towards the prop shaft compared to the auto 'box which came out of the car. That means that the shift mechanism which attaches at the top, rear is going to be tight. It needs modification anyway though, for length, so if required, we can make things more streamlined.
The steering box which I thought might be a big problem and get in the way of the turbo exit and exhaust isnt too bad at all.
Next thing to do is to position the engine as precisely as possible and figure out how to mount it so that it doesn't fall out!
I'll try to get some photos up over the weekend.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
The engine fits (kinda). Wohoo!
Last night we dropped the engine in and attached the gearbox to it. The good news is that there's room for everything (just about). The tightest part is fitting the gearbox into the transmission tunnel. The manual 'box is higher towards the prop shaft compared to the auto 'box which came out of the car. That means that the shift mechanism which attaches at the top, rear is going to be tight. It needs modification anyway though, for length, so if required, we can make things more streamlined.
The steering box which I thought might be a big problem and get in the way of the turbo exit and exhaust isnt too bad at all.
Next thing to do is to position the engine as precisely as possible and figure out how to mount it so that it doesn't fall out!
I'll try to get some photos up over the weekend.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
05-23-2014, 06:57 AM #16Splendid work – looking fwd to a vid of it on the move!
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
(05-23-2014, 08:45 AM)The Stig What are your plans for upgrading the brakes & suspension if any?
Initially, no plans to upgrade any of that stuff. The diesel power is slightly less than the original setup, albeit with more torque, so I'll drive it as-is for now. I momentarily considered putting the front subframe from the E300 donor under it, but that looked like too much trouble!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Thanks gents!
(05-23-2014, 08:45 AM)The Stig What are your plans for upgrading the brakes & suspension if any?
Initially, no plans to upgrade any of that stuff. The diesel power is slightly less than the original setup, albeit with more torque, so I'll drive it as-is for now. I momentarily considered putting the front subframe from the E300 donor under it, but that looked like too much trouble!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
![[Image: re_P1010248_zps93dd75c7.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010248_zps93dd75c7.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010251_zpsd99213ea.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010251_zpsd99213ea.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010249_zps5bbb1afb.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010249_zps5bbb1afb.jpg)
This intercooler pipe had to be sacrificed as it was sitting on the anti-roll bar, I'll just re-route it, or might even get away with squashing it a bit:
![[Image: re_P1010247_zps903beab3.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010247_zps903beab3.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010250_zps86e46e23.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010250_zps86e46e23.jpg)
Lots of clearance between subframe and sump:
![[Image: re_P1010260_zps1f0aa30f.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010260_zps1f0aa30f.jpg)
And the exhaust clears the steering box:
![[Image: re_P1010252_zpsd03285f4.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010252_zpsd03285f4.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010253_zps6e2d6e10.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010253_zps6e2d6e10.jpg)
It's difficult to get a decent photo of it, but here's the attachment for the shifting mechanism on top of the gearbox. It's pretty tight to the top of the transmission tunnel. That long self-tapper is someone else's legacy!
![[Image: re_P1010256_zps1775fcfc.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010256_zps1775fcfc.jpg)
This photo shows the original V8 engine mount and the new, improved wooden version.
![[Image: re_P1010261_zps797cbc1d.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010261_zps797cbc1d.jpg)
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Well, here it is, the "new" engine in its new home. It's only sat there, but it fits in well. The engine bay looks a bit empty but will soon fill up with a battery, air box, computer box and screen washer bottle. the blue shopping bag contains the wiring harness for now!!
This intercooler pipe had to be sacrificed as it was sitting on the anti-roll bar, I'll just re-route it, or might even get away with squashing it a bit:
Lots of clearance between subframe and sump:
And the exhaust clears the steering box:
It's difficult to get a decent photo of it, but here's the attachment for the shifting mechanism on top of the gearbox. It's pretty tight to the top of the transmission tunnel. That long self-tapper is someone else's legacy!
This photo shows the original V8 engine mount and the new, improved wooden version.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
The original shaft is used up to the carrier bearing, and it turned out that the splines on the shaft which came with the manual gearbox match it, so my very good friend just shortened the front section of the shaft which belongs to the gearbox. You can see how it was before and how it is now in the photos below.
![[Image: re_P1010262_zps72732a43.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010262_zps72732a43.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010263_zpscc299f5b.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010263_zpscc299f5b.jpg)
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Drive shaft sorted!
The original shaft is used up to the carrier bearing, and it turned out that the splines on the shaft which came with the manual gearbox match it, so my very good friend just shortened the front section of the shaft which belongs to the gearbox. You can see how it was before and how it is now in the photos below.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
06-03-2014, 07:23 AM #21Great work – keep it up!
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
How did you get the electric pump to run without the original car attached?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-03-2014, 09:07 AM #22Awesome!
How did you get the electric pump to run without the original car attached?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-03-2014, 09:07 AM)Simpler=Better Awesome!Thanks for the encouragement!
How did you get the electric pump to run without the original car attached?
I had a guy bypass the DAS on the ECU. He soldered in a tiny little board which spoofs the DAS signal which should come from the ignition module and key. Other than that, there are just a few wires which I discovered require +12V, and off she goes!
I'll eventually put up ah "how to" for the wiring changes once I have the car driving and I'm sure there are no other complications.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(06-03-2014, 09:07 AM)Simpler=Better Awesome!Thanks for the encouragement!
How did you get the electric pump to run without the original car attached?
I had a guy bypass the DAS on the ECU. He soldered in a tiny little board which spoofs the DAS signal which should come from the ignition module and key. Other than that, there are just a few wires which I discovered require +12V, and off she goes!
I'll eventually put up ah "how to" for the wiring changes once I have the car driving and I'm sure there are no other complications.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
This is the new bracket to mount the sensor in the engine bay.
![[Image: re_P1010314_zps50956a6e.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010314_zps50956a6e.jpg)
This bracket is fot the other end to hold the outer casing of the cable. Some rustiness in the bacground which will need to be dealt with!
![[Image: re_P1010310_zps764a2ec2.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010310_zps764a2ec2.jpg)
The clutch pedal and master cylinder are in. They are from the gearbox donor clk. The fluid line to the slave cylinder is routed on the inside, but I still have to sort it out on the outside. It connects with a length of flexi hose coming from the gearbox housing.
![[Image: re_P1010316_zps2335b9f6.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010316_zps2335b9f6.jpg)
In other news, I've done some work to get the engine into its final position. My resourceful and very talented engineering friend made a mounting bracket for the gearbox. The OM606 engine is rotated to one side so that is isn't so tall in an engine bay. Although the bell housing on my gearbox fits the engine crank case, the engine the gearbox was attached to mustn't have had the rotation because my gearbox now sits at an angle as you can see in this photo. The steering componenets are horizontal, the bottom of the gearbox is not!
![[Image: re_P1010322_zps8c6a6821.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010322_zps8c6a6821.jpg)
The gearbox bellhousing could be cut and rotated to straighten out the gearbox, but I'm going to just leave it as it is. It doesn't look like it will present any mechanical issues with the build. I'll be crossing my fingers a bit regarding internal lubrication....
Here you can see the new bracket before painting and in its final position in all its glory!
![[Image: re_P1010278_zps31f7ff98.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010278_zps31f7ff98.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010320_zps99db553b.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010320_zps99db553b.jpg)
Once the rear of the gearbox was fixed in position, the engine was nudged around the place in order to get the drive shaft to line up correctly in the centre of the carrier bearing:
![[Image: photo2_zps43ffeae6.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/photo2_zps43ffeae6.jpg)
Now that that's done, it was a case of trying to make sure the engine ends up in the same spot once the new mounts are fitted. So, there are two dots on the sump which line up with two ends of a piece of TIG wire. Once the new mounts are made, the engine should settle back into the same spot. That's the plan anyhow!
![[Image: re_P1010311_zps8663a569.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010311_zps8663a569.jpg)
That's it, the Engine mounts shipped last Thursday, so once they arrive, it'll be a matter of figuring out how much they will compress under the weight of the engine, and making a mounting plates to suit.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
A long time since the last update so a long one to catch up! I spent a long time getting the auld Hilux through its test, doing some house alterations, parenting and that kind of thing! A few bits and pieces have still been done on the car. I've made up some brackets to change the old lever/rod operated throttle to a cable one for the throttle position sensor.
This is the new bracket to mount the sensor in the engine bay.
This bracket is fot the other end to hold the outer casing of the cable. Some rustiness in the bacground which will need to be dealt with!
The clutch pedal and master cylinder are in. They are from the gearbox donor clk. The fluid line to the slave cylinder is routed on the inside, but I still have to sort it out on the outside. It connects with a length of flexi hose coming from the gearbox housing.
In other news, I've done some work to get the engine into its final position. My resourceful and very talented engineering friend made a mounting bracket for the gearbox. The OM606 engine is rotated to one side so that is isn't so tall in an engine bay. Although the bell housing on my gearbox fits the engine crank case, the engine the gearbox was attached to mustn't have had the rotation because my gearbox now sits at an angle as you can see in this photo. The steering componenets are horizontal, the bottom of the gearbox is not!
The gearbox bellhousing could be cut and rotated to straighten out the gearbox, but I'm going to just leave it as it is. It doesn't look like it will present any mechanical issues with the build. I'll be crossing my fingers a bit regarding internal lubrication....
Here you can see the new bracket before painting and in its final position in all its glory!
Once the rear of the gearbox was fixed in position, the engine was nudged around the place in order to get the drive shaft to line up correctly in the centre of the carrier bearing:
Now that that's done, it was a case of trying to make sure the engine ends up in the same spot once the new mounts are fitted. So, there are two dots on the sump which line up with two ends of a piece of TIG wire. Once the new mounts are made, the engine should settle back into the same spot. That's the plan anyhow!
That's it, the Engine mounts shipped last Thursday, so once they arrive, it'll be a matter of figuring out how much they will compress under the weight of the engine, and making a mounting plates to suit.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
The plan ended up with chopping the mounting point off the bracket and welding it back on at an angle. The effect being that the whole brakcet and gear shifter unit is rotated back into the horizontal plane. Since the top of the gearbox is leaning towards the driver's side of the car, but the shifter will be mounted in the middle of the transmission tunnel, it will have to operate at a slight angle rather than straight front to back, but I reckon I'll get used to that pretty quickly. So, photos:
Here's the whole assembly:
![[Image: re_P1010323_zps19d03963.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010323_zps19d03963.jpg)
And this is how it conects to the gearbox. There's a rubber bush which goes in the bracket, and a pin runs through it to secure it all to the gearbox.
![[Image: re_P1010329_zpsad3f7d41.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010329_zpsad3f7d41.jpg)
Here you can see the angle which has been introduced.
![[Image: re_P1010324_zpsbd9c45e2.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010324_zpsbd9c45e2.jpg)
A little angle grinder action been going on to make a spot for the gear lever. It'll get bigger before it gets smaller, it's too far forward by a couple of inches!
![[Image: re_P1010330_zpsbc9afff9.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010330_zpsbc9afff9.jpg)
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
My 6 speed gearbox is from a 2004 CLK. The gear shifter is attached to it by a long aluminium U-shaped bracket which attaches to the rear/top of the gearbox and to the shifter mechanism. It's relatively straight-forward to re-use this whole setup except that I'm a little tight for space, and, more importantly, my gearbox is rotated in relation to the horizontal plane the gear stick should work on. So, if kept standard, the gear lever would be pointing out the driver window instead of straight up. Hopefully the photos will help explain.
The plan ended up with chopping the mounting point off the bracket and welding it back on at an angle. The effect being that the whole brakcet and gear shifter unit is rotated back into the horizontal plane. Since the top of the gearbox is leaning towards the driver's side of the car, but the shifter will be mounted in the middle of the transmission tunnel, it will have to operate at a slight angle rather than straight front to back, but I reckon I'll get used to that pretty quickly. So, photos:
Here's the whole assembly:
And this is how it conects to the gearbox. There's a rubber bush which goes in the bracket, and a pin runs through it to secure it all to the gearbox.
Here you can see the angle which has been introduced.
A little angle grinder action been going on to make a spot for the gear lever. It'll get bigger before it gets smaller, it's too far forward by a couple of inches!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(09-08-2014, 08:43 AM)Petar I think it would be smarter to shorthen the shift linkage rather than relocate the shifter. If you move the shifter backwards it might be uncomfortable to shift later.
Thanks Petar. I've quite long legs, so it actually suits me to have it a little further back!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(09-08-2014, 08:43 AM)Petar I think it would be smarter to shorthen the shift linkage rather than relocate the shifter. If you move the shifter backwards it might be uncomfortable to shift later.
Thanks Petar. I've quite long legs, so it actually suits me to have it a little further back!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
![[Image: re_P1010351_zps9ea1bf9b.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010351_zps9ea1bf9b.jpg)
I have also started to strip the interior and I'm glad I did. I found a big hole in the inner sill which was fibreglassed over. Repair should be easy enough given the simple shapes. The outer sills are new.
![[Image: re_P1010356_zpse8453143.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010356_zpse8453143.jpg)
I also took the bitumen coating off the passenger floors and found a few bits that need patching. Nothing structural nor particularly serious.
![[Image: re_P1010355_zps4f41e90b.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010355_zps4f41e90b.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010358_zpsb565adac.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010358_zpsb565adac.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010362_zpsbc621d37.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010362_zpsbc621d37.jpg)
The donor car went to the big car graveyard in the sky today. The first and only time this project will ever give me money
I got a puncture in the pick-up (screw through the tire) for my troubles.![[Image: re_P1010373_zps809a6d7d.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010373_zps809a6d7d.jpg)
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
It's been a long time since I did a proper update. Progress has been slow but there has been progress. I've been doing a lot of wiring and its almost complete now. I built a circuit to replicate some of the essential stuff. It's basically 2 relays, 1 for ECU power and 1 for switching the starter solenoid, and a few fuses for power running to various sensors, etc. I have also mounted the ECU under the dash and run the wiring through the firewall to connect to it. It's not beautiful, but works well and isn't visible without some contortionism to get feet up on the seat and head down into the passenger footwell.
I have also started to strip the interior and I'm glad I did. I found a big hole in the inner sill which was fibreglassed over. Repair should be easy enough given the simple shapes. The outer sills are new.
I also took the bitumen coating off the passenger floors and found a few bits that need patching. Nothing structural nor particularly serious.
The donor car went to the big car graveyard in the sky today. The first and only time this project will ever give me money I got a puncture in the pick-up (screw through the tire) for my troubles.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(11-30-2014, 07:57 AM)pryantcc It's been a long time since I did a proper update. Progress has been slow but there has been progress. I've been doing a lot of wiring and its almost complete now. I built a circuit to replicate some of the essential stuff. It's basically 2 relays, 1 for ECU power and 1 for switching the starter solenoid, and a few fuses for power running to various sensors, etc. I have also mounted the ECU under the dash and run the wiring through the firewall to connect to it. It's not beautiful, but works well and isn't visible without some contortionism to get feet up on the seat and head down into the passenger footwell.
I have also started to strip the interior and I'm glad I did. I found a big hole in the inner sill which was fibreglassed over. Repair should be easy enough given the simple shapes. The outer sills are new.
I also took the bitumen coating off the passenger floors and found a few bits that need patching. Nothing structural nor particularly serious.
The donor car went to the big car graveyard in the sky today. The first and only time this project will ever give me money
So, is it running now? I was wondering how the clutch is standing up to it. I am using a Sprinter SMF with a performance lining and it is failing after 3500 miles. Probably due to 400+ ft.lb torque with nos in OM611 engine. I cannot find a clutch to take it.
Vanster
01-06-2015, 03:09 PM #29(11-30-2014, 07:57 AM)pryantcc It's been a long time since I did a proper update. Progress has been slow but there has been progress. I've been doing a lot of wiring and its almost complete now. I built a circuit to replicate some of the essential stuff. It's basically 2 relays, 1 for ECU power and 1 for switching the starter solenoid, and a few fuses for power running to various sensors, etc. I have also mounted the ECU under the dash and run the wiring through the firewall to connect to it. It's not beautiful, but works well and isn't visible without some contortionism to get feet up on the seat and head down into the passenger footwell.
I have also started to strip the interior and I'm glad I did. I found a big hole in the inner sill which was fibreglassed over. Repair should be easy enough given the simple shapes. The outer sills are new.
I also took the bitumen coating off the passenger floors and found a few bits that need patching. Nothing structural nor particularly serious.
The donor car went to the big car graveyard in the sky today. The first and only time this project will ever give me money
So, is it running now? I was wondering how the clutch is standing up to it. I am using a Sprinter SMF with a performance lining and it is failing after 3500 miles. Probably due to 400+ ft.lb torque with nos in OM611 engine. I cannot find a clutch to take it.
(01-06-2015, 03:09 PM)Vanster So, is it running now? I was wondering how the clutch is standing up to it. I am using a Sprinter SMF with a performance lining and it is failing after 3500 miles. Probably due to 400+ ft.lb torque with nos in OM611 engine. I cannot find a clutch to take it.
Nope, not driviing yet. It'll be a while before I put many miles on it as it'll undergo a body-work restoration before being pressed into service. However, a test run isn't all that far away!
Some more progress being made, slowly but surely!
She's starting to look a bit rough
I've most of the interior and doors stripped now and removed a lot of chrome trim, etc. ![[Image: re_P1010437_zpsa116b8da.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010437_zpsa116b8da.jpg)
Here you can see one of the 3 beautiful fibreglass patch-jobs I've found so far and what it was covering.
![[Image: re_P1010382_zpscc886f54.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010382_zpscc886f54.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010383_zps002c9863.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010383_zps002c9863.jpg)
I found more rust in the rear floors under the sound deadening bitumen stuff, but nothing too scary.
![[Image: re_P1010439_zps0808e6d9.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010439_zps0808e6d9.jpg)
I chipped a bit of paint away from the base of the C pillar where it was bubbling. There are small perforations, but, to be honest I expected it to be worse. I was surprised, though at how far the rot goes under what seemed to be good paint from the outside!
![[Image: re_P1010438_zps1669bf1a.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010438_zps1669bf1a.jpg)
I bolted up the flywheel and clutch. I re-measured all the clearances with respect to the gearbox input shaft length, release bearing position, etc. It couldn't really have worked out any better, everything has fitted perfectly.
![[Image: re_P1010434_zps4dc32897.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010434_zps4dc32897.jpg)
The big news is that my welding expert friend visited earlier in the week and fixed my gear shifting mechanism in place. It worked out well in terms of position and seems like it'll be very comfortable to use. This feels like a big step as all the mojor requirements for driving are now in place. Happy days!
![[Image: re_P1010441_zps043a45e1.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010441_zps043a45e1.jpg)
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
(01-06-2015, 03:09 PM)Vanster So, is it running now? I was wondering how the clutch is standing up to it. I am using a Sprinter SMF with a performance lining and it is failing after 3500 miles. Probably due to 400+ ft.lb torque with nos in OM611 engine. I cannot find a clutch to take it.
Nope, not driviing yet. It'll be a while before I put many miles on it as it'll undergo a body-work restoration before being pressed into service. However, a test run isn't all that far away!
Some more progress being made, slowly but surely!
She's starting to look a bit rough
I've most of the interior and doors stripped now and removed a lot of chrome trim, etc. Here you can see one of the 3 beautiful fibreglass patch-jobs I've found so far and what it was covering.
I found more rust in the rear floors under the sound deadening bitumen stuff, but nothing too scary.
I chipped a bit of paint away from the base of the C pillar where it was bubbling. There are small perforations, but, to be honest I expected it to be worse. I was surprised, though at how far the rot goes under what seemed to be good paint from the outside!
I bolted up the flywheel and clutch. I re-measured all the clearances with respect to the gearbox input shaft length, release bearing position, etc. It couldn't really have worked out any better, everything has fitted perfectly.
The big news is that my welding expert friend visited earlier in the week and fixed my gear shifting mechanism in place. It worked out well in terms of position and seems like it'll be very comfortable to use. This feels like a big step as all the mojor requirements for driving are now in place. Happy days!
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
Feed for clutch master cylinder
Intercooler
Oil cooler
Radiator
Power steering
Oil pressure gauge
Temperature gauge
The clutch master cylinder was the easiest part, just a length of hose from the brake reservoir down to the master cylinder.
![[Image: re_P1010447_zpseb3dd11f.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010447_zpseb3dd11f.jpg)
The intercooler needed a custom pipe to be welded up to get down around the alternator and the anti-roll bar. the intercooler itself isn't permanently attached yet, but fits well between the two front bumper mounts.
![[Image: re_P1010449_zps83b88160.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010449_zps83b88160.jpg)
For the oil cooler, it was a bit more involved. In the original car, the oil cooler is actually boldted onto the right side of the radiator, in line with it, so, apart from being unboltable, it is effectively an extension on to the side of the rad. The biggest problem with this was that the oil cooler plumbing on the new engine was on the left hand side. In order to move the cooler to the other side, we had to de-solder the sides off the rad and swap them around. You cna see it in its new position on the left of the rad in this photo:
![[Image: re_P1010450_zps762fe7d0.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010450_zps762fe7d0.jpg)
Once this was done, it was clear that the top connection on the cooler was going to interfere with the power steering pump.
![[Image: re_P1010442_zps173c07e3.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010442_zps173c07e3.jpg)
The solution was to swap the outlet position with what used to be the drain plug as the cooler is now upside down. So, we cut the fitting off the W210 E300 oil cooler as there was more meat in those and welded it to the oil cooler from the W108.
The W210 oil cooler:
![[Image: re_P1010451_zpsdae1e2b3.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010451_zpsdae1e2b3.jpg)
And the swap job on the W108 cooler:
![[Image: re_P1010453_zps35a82805.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010453_zps35a82805.jpg)
Once this was all sorted out, the only requirement was to extend the oil feed lines slightly to reach the cooler.
The top connection on the rad is very close to the outlet from the engine, so a bit of bodgery was required to get them connected. I got a couple of tight bends and cut and joined them. It's a little rigid as the engine moves about under power, but I'll try to sort that out by spreading the two halves on the joiner.
![[Image: re_P1010454_zpsb9ef7dbd.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010454_zpsb9ef7dbd.jpg)
The power steering was probably the most awkward to sort out. In terms of plumbing, the guys making up the hydraulic pipes had nothing that would fit the pump end. So, my good welding friend cut the original pump connector and welded it to the hydraulic fitting.
![[Image: IMG_2444_zps492fd29c.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/IMG_2444_zps492fd29c.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_2446_zps49cd93cb.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/IMG_2446_zps49cd93cb.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_24471_zps1eb8d719.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/IMG_24471_zps1eb8d719.jpg)
![[Image: re_P1010455_zps9d642469.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/re_P1010455_zps9d642469.jpg)
Now, I also knew that the pump output would produce about double the pressure of the old original one, so presumed that hooking my more modern version up to the ancient steering box would result in bad things. So, I bought a gauge for £7.50 from Ebay, and, welding ecxpertise was required again to put together a fitting so that it could be connected to the end of the high pressure pipe.
![[Image: IMG_2448_zps59acd0aa.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/IMG_2448_zps59acd0aa.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_24491_zps8a7f16e6.jpg]](http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/prynatcc/Merc%20280SE/IMG_24491_zps8a7f16e6.jpg)
An evening of testing followed. The pump registered just over 100 bar at the start and I was aiming for around 60. There is a pressure relief valve inside the pump body, a very simple arrangement with a spring that holds a ball bearing against a seat until the pressure pushes it off the seat against the spring. There were a few shims in it, so I went about adjusting with shims. The first try had only minimal impact +/- 2 bar, so adjustment was acheived by shortening the spring with careful application of the angle grinder! 3 or 4 tests later and the pump was outputting about 60 bar.
More welding was required to fit the engine oil presure gauge. There's a nylon pipe running to the back of the pressure gauge in the dash which feeds the pressure up to the mechanical gauge. The diesel engine had a handy bung at the base of the oil filter housing which was removed, drilled out and welded to the fitting from the petrol engine.
The temperature gauge is a vial on the end of a capilliary tube which runs to the back of the dash. The fitting from the petrol engine went straight into a handy hole which was plugged in the diesel without any modification.
If you're still reading, fair play! Here's what I'm getting around to:
[YOUTUBE]_nevB8yOQ0Y[/YOUTUBE]
http://youtu.be/_nevB8yOQ0Y
It works!! The first time in about a year she's moved out of the shed! The drive went well. Gearing is very low as was expected, but I'm very happy with the way the engine behaves. It's hard to tell what it'll be like until you have it on a manual gearbox, but it's great. Clutch and gearbox work nicely too. I'm very happy and really like it. I'll try significantly bigger wheels and tyres shortly. According to my calculations, +2 inches in diameter will have me cruising at 70 and 2,400RPM.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
There's been a major push the last few weeks. I'm sorry to say I've very few photos. Plumbing has been a large part of the work, there was quite a list:
Feed for clutch master cylinder
Intercooler
Oil cooler
Radiator
Power steering
Oil pressure gauge
Temperature gauge
The clutch master cylinder was the easiest part, just a length of hose from the brake reservoir down to the master cylinder.
The intercooler needed a custom pipe to be welded up to get down around the alternator and the anti-roll bar. the intercooler itself isn't permanently attached yet, but fits well between the two front bumper mounts.
For the oil cooler, it was a bit more involved. In the original car, the oil cooler is actually boldted onto the right side of the radiator, in line with it, so, apart from being unboltable, it is effectively an extension on to the side of the rad. The biggest problem with this was that the oil cooler plumbing on the new engine was on the left hand side. In order to move the cooler to the other side, we had to de-solder the sides off the rad and swap them around. You cna see it in its new position on the left of the rad in this photo:
Once this was done, it was clear that the top connection on the cooler was going to interfere with the power steering pump.
The solution was to swap the outlet position with what used to be the drain plug as the cooler is now upside down. So, we cut the fitting off the W210 E300 oil cooler as there was more meat in those and welded it to the oil cooler from the W108.
The W210 oil cooler:
And the swap job on the W108 cooler:
Once this was all sorted out, the only requirement was to extend the oil feed lines slightly to reach the cooler.
The top connection on the rad is very close to the outlet from the engine, so a bit of bodgery was required to get them connected. I got a couple of tight bends and cut and joined them. It's a little rigid as the engine moves about under power, but I'll try to sort that out by spreading the two halves on the joiner.
The power steering was probably the most awkward to sort out. In terms of plumbing, the guys making up the hydraulic pipes had nothing that would fit the pump end. So, my good welding friend cut the original pump connector and welded it to the hydraulic fitting.
Now, I also knew that the pump output would produce about double the pressure of the old original one, so presumed that hooking my more modern version up to the ancient steering box would result in bad things. So, I bought a gauge for £7.50 from Ebay, and, welding ecxpertise was required again to put together a fitting so that it could be connected to the end of the high pressure pipe.
An evening of testing followed. The pump registered just over 100 bar at the start and I was aiming for around 60. There is a pressure relief valve inside the pump body, a very simple arrangement with a spring that holds a ball bearing against a seat until the pressure pushes it off the seat against the spring. There were a few shims in it, so I went about adjusting with shims. The first try had only minimal impact +/- 2 bar, so adjustment was acheived by shortening the spring with careful application of the angle grinder! 3 or 4 tests later and the pump was outputting about 60 bar.
More welding was required to fit the engine oil presure gauge. There's a nylon pipe running to the back of the pressure gauge in the dash which feeds the pressure up to the mechanical gauge. The diesel engine had a handy bung at the base of the oil filter housing which was removed, drilled out and welded to the fitting from the petrol engine.
The temperature gauge is a vial on the end of a capilliary tube which runs to the back of the dash. The fitting from the petrol engine went straight into a handy hole which was plugged in the diesel without any modification.
If you're still reading, fair play! Here's what I'm getting around to:
[YOUTUBE]_nevB8yOQ0Y[/YOUTUBE]
http://youtu.be/_nevB8yOQ0Y
It works!! The first time in about a year she's moved out of the shed! The drive went well. Gearing is very low as was expected, but I'm very happy with the way the engine behaves. It's hard to tell what it'll be like until you have it on a manual gearbox, but it's great. Clutch and gearbox work nicely too. I'm very happy and really like it. I'll try significantly bigger wheels and tyres shortly. According to my calculations, +2 inches in diameter will have me cruising at 70 and 2,400RPM.
1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
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