The Learning Experience - 1984 300D Turbo
The Learning Experience - 1984 300D Turbo
! I got my '84 300D turbo about a month ago now and haven't done anything yet (other than drive it every chance I get!). I've been working long night shifts for about that same period, but will be back to a regular schedule staring this weekend and am ready to hit the ground running with some basic maintenance. The car runs really well, doesn't appear to have too much rust on the frame (I hope!! From what I've read on here and elsewhere it can HIDE!) and the interior is in really good shape.
I got it from a nice couple from Lake Forest, IL (rich northern suburb of Chicago) who were the original owners. They seemed to take pretty good care of it and were finally selling to make more room for horses on their estate or something.
Anyway, we've been getting used to each other on my 60 mile round-trip daily commutes. On cool mornings she coughs a little when starting. Fires up on the first try, but with some sputters, a couple shots of white-ish smoke, then she settles in and we're good! The shifts are a little strong, but I'm getting a better feel for that, too. Sounds like as there's some vacuum stuff I might be able to mess with that could smooth out the shifting a touch. I don't ever see black smoke or have any other real problems. The A/C, original stereo/antenna, power mirror, sunroof and windows all work well! The jack points are pretty rusty, especially the front passenger's side.
I'm going to be messing around with some aesthetic stuff (lots of spray paint?) and going for a bunch of the typical performance mods. Mostly, as the thread title should imply, I'm here to learn and improve and see what the car can do! I'm hoping to do some mild fab work when needed, and am looking for a good, cheap-ish (but quality) welder to get some practice on.
It seems like over the years a pretty reliable set of upgrades have been developed through the hard work and trials (tribulations?) of the members of this forum and others, and I'm glad I found such a wealth of knowledge (courage?) that I can use and hopefully contribute to someday.
Blah blah blah, here's some pics!
1984 300D TurboDiesel
Let me start with a generic disclaimer: I'm new to these cars and a fairly inexperienced auto mechanic, but I've been reading and studying everything I've been able to find, and read a LOT of great stuff on this forum. However, what I lack in knowledge and experience I make up for with blind, ignorant enthusiasm !
I got my '84 300D turbo about a month ago now and haven't done anything yet (other than drive it every chance I get!). I've been working long night shifts for about that same period, but will be back to a regular schedule staring this weekend and am ready to hit the ground running with some basic maintenance. The car runs really well, doesn't appear to have too much rust on the frame (I hope!! From what I've read on here and elsewhere it can HIDE!) and the interior is in really good shape.
I got it from a nice couple from Lake Forest, IL (rich northern suburb of Chicago) who were the original owners. They seemed to take pretty good care of it and were finally selling to make more room for horses on their estate or something.
Anyway, we've been getting used to each other on my 60 mile round-trip daily commutes. On cool mornings she coughs a little when starting. Fires up on the first try, but with some sputters, a couple shots of white-ish smoke, then she settles in and we're good! The shifts are a little strong, but I'm getting a better feel for that, too. Sounds like as there's some vacuum stuff I might be able to mess with that could smooth out the shifting a touch. I don't ever see black smoke or have any other real problems. The A/C, original stereo/antenna, power mirror, sunroof and windows all work well! The jack points are pretty rusty, especially the front passenger's side.
I'm going to be messing around with some aesthetic stuff (lots of spray paint?) and going for a bunch of the typical performance mods. Mostly, as the thread title should imply, I'm here to learn and improve and see what the car can do! I'm hoping to do some mild fab work when needed, and am looking for a good, cheap-ish (but quality) welder to get some practice on.
It seems like over the years a pretty reliable set of upgrades have been developed through the hard work and trials (tribulations?) of the members of this forum and others, and I'm glad I found such a wealth of knowledge (courage?) that I can use and hopefully contribute to someday.
Blah blah blah, here's some pics!
1984 300D TurboDiesel
as far as the rough start. You might need to have the injectors rebuilt/cleaned. I would contact Greazzer. He offers that work and hes really good at it too. for the time being you can order some diesel purge along with all new fuel filters.
I would get about two cans. This will help clean out the fuel system and get rid of any build up. Works wonders.
purge the system and then replace the filters, see if its any better. If not get the injectors serviced.
heres a guide thanks to one of the other new members: uberwasser
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mercedes+W12...urge/22550
Purplecomputer
05-24-2014, 12:30 PM #2Welcome! and Good luck with your new obsession, its really going to turn into a disease.
as far as the rough start. You might need to have the injectors rebuilt/cleaned. I would contact Greazzer. He offers that work and hes really good at it too. for the time being you can order some diesel purge along with all new fuel filters.
I would get about two cans. This will help clean out the fuel system and get rid of any build up. Works wonders.
purge the system and then replace the filters, see if its any better. If not get the injectors serviced.
heres a guide thanks to one of the other new members: uberwasser
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mercedes+W12...urge/22550
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-24-2014, 01:45 PM #3And get a second Mercedes too. Maybe 3. You can drive one while the other is down for whatever mysterious reason ;-)
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Based on what I've seen recommended, I figured I'd shotgun it with initial maintenance. Here's my weekend-new-car-first-time-noob-maintenance-overkill plan:
1. Valve adjustment (With the valve cover off I think I'll mess with the vent and probably paint the cover.)
2. Diesel purge (I'm going to replace my injectors after the purge, if it needs it. I already have a newly popped set ready to go)
3. Clean that ALDA banjo bolt thing
4. Thinking about trying to flush the tank a little. It seems like these cars can get a pretty good amount of stuff built up in there. I was going to try and just take the strainer out the bottom, pull the sender out the top and flush it with some clean diesel? Or do I need to take it out?
5. My passenger wiper nozzle doesn't spray, so I was going to mess with that.
6. After the diesel purge and air filter change, and maybe after putting a few more miles on it, I have new fuel filters and I'll do an oil change. Seemed to be an OK idea to make sure all the crap gets flushed out first, right?
7. Maybe check and ream/replace my glowplugs
I'm not fixing too many things that aren't broke, am I? I figured it'd give me a chance to crawl around and figure out what's what, too.
Happy vacation weekend everyone!
1984 300D TurboDiesel
Cool, thanks! I've got 2 cans of Purge, all the filters and a bunch of other stuff I'm going to be busting out. I'm also going to take a look at the breather since it looks like it's letting oil seep out. Drag tube? I haven't noticed any other leaks yet...
Based on what I've seen recommended, I figured I'd shotgun it with initial maintenance. Here's my weekend-new-car-first-time-noob-maintenance-overkill plan:
1. Valve adjustment (With the valve cover off I think I'll mess with the vent and probably paint the cover.)
2. Diesel purge (I'm going to replace my injectors after the purge, if it needs it. I already have a newly popped set ready to go)
3. Clean that ALDA banjo bolt thing
4. Thinking about trying to flush the tank a little. It seems like these cars can get a pretty good amount of stuff built up in there. I was going to try and just take the strainer out the bottom, pull the sender out the top and flush it with some clean diesel? Or do I need to take it out?
5. My passenger wiper nozzle doesn't spray, so I was going to mess with that.
6. After the diesel purge and air filter change, and maybe after putting a few more miles on it, I have new fuel filters and I'll do an oil change. Seemed to be an OK idea to make sure all the crap gets flushed out first, right?
7. Maybe check and ream/replace my glowplugs
I'm not fixing too many things that aren't broke, am I? I figured it'd give me a chance to crawl around and figure out what's what, too.
Happy vacation weekend everyone!
1984 300D TurboDiesel
Fuel additives a whole different topic and I'm not really an advocate, just something I do. Maybe I'm just one of the lucky ones.
Glow plugs tutorial by dieselgiant. Its for a 603 or 606 but works on the 617 motor too.
http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
05-24-2014, 02:43 PM #5Maybe unless you are having fuel supply issues you could leave tank alone... I've bought three of these cars and no issues yet. None were regularly driven before I got them. I frequently add power service diesel clean to mine and have never had issues.
Fuel additives a whole different topic and I'm not really an advocate, just something I do. Maybe I'm just one of the lucky ones.
Glow plugs tutorial by dieselgiant. Its for a 603 or 606 but works on the 617 motor too.
http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
I've dumped some Marvel Mystery Oil in with the last 2 tanks, but I'm not strongly committed to it as a regimen or anything. I saw someone recommend it as a way to help clean up the cylinders (they were talking about literally soaking the cylinders with it for a couple weeks I think, not as an additive..) and mostly the name sounded cool
. Plus I think it said it was made right here in northern IL! I'm not from here originally, but that's still pretty cool.Today was landscaping day around the house. Tomorrow I'm selling a 1980 Suzuki GS750 project bike I was messing with but need to make room in the garage for the Benz. Then I should still have plenty of time to get the basic maintenance done, too.
purplecomputer, like I said, my blind enthusiasm is sure to get the best of me in this new obsession! I'm going to try and pace myself, though. At least a "cut once, swear, measure twice and cut a couple more times" sorta thing.
greeley, have you found a lot of these cars here around Chicago? I saw this one and another one in Joliet when I was looking, but wasn't sure if that was typical or just lucky
. Don't think I'm going to be starting my fleet quite yet, but maybe someday....
1984 300D TurboDiesel
So maybe I'll skip the tank cleaning for now. I feel like the fuel gauge bounces a little sometimes, especially when in the last quarter tank, but it could just be me... either way not a real problem. While I'm getting the wife used to this car, too, it might be better not to spend my first weekend working on it splashing crud and diesel all over the driveway, huh? Not sure how effective my lazy plan would've been anyway, haha.
I've dumped some Marvel Mystery Oil in with the last 2 tanks, but I'm not strongly committed to it as a regimen or anything. I saw someone recommend it as a way to help clean up the cylinders (they were talking about literally soaking the cylinders with it for a couple weeks I think, not as an additive..) and mostly the name sounded cool . Plus I think it said it was made right here in northern IL! I'm not from here originally, but that's still pretty cool.
Today was landscaping day around the house. Tomorrow I'm selling a 1980 Suzuki GS750 project bike I was messing with but need to make room in the garage for the Benz. Then I should still have plenty of time to get the basic maintenance done, too.
purplecomputer, like I said, my blind enthusiasm is sure to get the best of me in this new obsession! I'm going to try and pace myself, though. At least a "cut once, swear, measure twice and cut a couple more times" sorta thing.
greeley, have you found a lot of these cars here around Chicago? I saw this one and another one in Joliet when I was looking, but wasn't sure if that was typical or just lucky . Don't think I'm going to be starting my fleet quite yet, but maybe someday....
1984 300D TurboDiesel
you can tell how dirty the tank is by the sender unit. I would replace the tank screen and just fill up. The sludge will end up in your fuel filters so youll probably end up replacing them a few times.
or you can just pull the tank and clean the shit out of it.
I also use diesel Kleen, good stuff. I feel more power and lately ive been having a smoother idle.
Could also be the new clutch I had installed.
so you should do a
Valve adjustment
Purge the fuel system
Clean the sender unit
replace the tank screen
and just go from there.
Purplecomputer
05-25-2014, 03:12 PM #7If the fuel gauge needle is bouncing you've got sludge messing with it. The sender unit is right underneath the first aid kit box. There are I think three or four screws. it comes out really easy. Soak it in mineral spirits.
you can tell how dirty the tank is by the sender unit. I would replace the tank screen and just fill up. The sludge will end up in your fuel filters so youll probably end up replacing them a few times.
or you can just pull the tank and clean the shit out of it.
I also use diesel Kleen, good stuff. I feel more power and lately ive been having a smoother idle.
Could also be the new clutch I had installed.
so you should do a
Valve adjustment
Purge the fuel system
Clean the sender unit
replace the tank screen
and just go from there.
(05-25-2014, 03:12 PM)Purplecomputer If the fuel gauge needle is bouncing you've got sludge messing with it. The sender unit is right underneath the first aid kit box. There are I think three or four screws. it comes out really easy. Soak it in mineral spirits.
you can tell how dirty the tank is by the sender unit. I would replace the tank screen and just fill up. The sludge will end up in your fuel filters so youll probably end up replacing them a few times.
or you can just pull the tank and clean the shit out of it.
I also use diesel Kleen, good stuff. I feel more power and lately ive been having a smoother idle.
Could also be the new clutch I had installed.
so you should do a
Valve adjustment
Purge the fuel system
Clean the sender unit
replace the tank screen
and just go from there.
Austincarnut
05-25-2014, 08:04 PM #8Save your money, cut the strainer out, you don't need it. It mainly acts as a large fuel restriction. You might want to replace the oring and fuel hose while you're there. Senders are common but more often than not, the gauge is bad or cluster needs another ground. Improper cluster removal / not disconnecting power caused the gauges to get back fed (+) and screwed them up. you can see this by having twitching gauges, inaccurate displays, etc. running a large ground to the case and large ground behind the cluster might not be a bad idea, always disconnect the power wire behind the cluster or disconnect the battery before anything else.
(05-25-2014, 03:12 PM)Purplecomputer If the fuel gauge needle is bouncing you've got sludge messing with it. The sender unit is right underneath the first aid kit box. There are I think three or four screws. it comes out really easy. Soak it in mineral spirits.
you can tell how dirty the tank is by the sender unit. I would replace the tank screen and just fill up. The sludge will end up in your fuel filters so youll probably end up replacing them a few times.
or you can just pull the tank and clean the shit out of it.
I also use diesel Kleen, good stuff. I feel more power and lately ive been having a smoother idle.
Could also be the new clutch I had installed.
so you should do a
Valve adjustment
Purge the fuel system
Clean the sender unit
replace the tank screen
and just go from there.
The valves were tight on almost all of 'em. When I ran for some Panda Express tonight, it seemed significantly more lively than before, although the shifting might be even a little more jarring? Could just be me.
I couldn't get it to start up right away once I had it all together. Eventually got it, either just from trying long enough, or 'cause I fixed the vacuum line I broke going from down hear the t-stat up to the box on top of the valve cover. The line just snapped during disassembly, so when I couldn't get the car to start I cut a chunk out of the EGR line and used that to jumper the distance. Then it worked. Not sure if that was coincidence or success, but I'll take it! In the pic you can see I just crammed some screws in both sides during "troubleshooting" haha. As if I know what I'm doing... I did pull the injector lines (no, I don't think I had a great reason to), but that wouldn't drain enough fuel to cause problems, right?
Also, I feel like I should've been warned that the grille was held on by so many hidden screws, lol.
Happy Memorial Day (in 10 minutes)!
1984 300D TurboDiesel
Well, got the valve adjustment done. Took me a while to figure out all the stuff I had to get out of the way (lots of rookie mistakes...), but it's done, works even better and the wife even helped! Win. I'm pretty sure this is basic stuff for most people on here, but I've gotta start somewhere before I can debate which volumetric turbo efficiency best pairs with a robust and oaky rear differential yoke link-bushing gearset ratio.
The valves were tight on almost all of 'em. When I ran for some Panda Express tonight, it seemed significantly more lively than before, although the shifting might be even a little more jarring? Could just be me.
I couldn't get it to start up right away once I had it all together. Eventually got it, either just from trying long enough, or 'cause I fixed the vacuum line I broke going from down hear the t-stat up to the box on top of the valve cover. The line just snapped during disassembly, so when I couldn't get the car to start I cut a chunk out of the EGR line and used that to jumper the distance. Then it worked. Not sure if that was coincidence or success, but I'll take it! In the pic you can see I just crammed some screws in both sides during "troubleshooting" haha. As if I know what I'm doing... I did pull the injector lines (no, I don't think I had a great reason to), but that wouldn't drain enough fuel to cause problems, right?
Also, I feel like I should've been warned that the grille was held on by so many hidden screws, lol.
Happy Memorial Day (in 10 minutes)!
1984 300D TurboDiesel
You are definitely headed in the right direction.
I would highly recommend replacing glow plugs, these things hate starting on 80F days without them, let alone anything under that.
As far as fuel additive, It is a good place to spend your money, because it will save you time and money in the long run. The diesel now days doesn't have enough lubricity for these pump, and also the additive helps algae from forming in the tank. We personally run stanadyne additive, because well, they make injections pumps, they know what they need :p
Painting my grill black was one of my favorite cosmetic mods so far, and window tint too
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Welcome to the forum!
You are definitely headed in the right direction.
I would highly recommend replacing glow plugs, these things hate starting on 80F days without them, let alone anything under that.
As far as fuel additive, It is a good place to spend your money, because it will save you time and money in the long run. The diesel now days doesn't have enough lubricity for these pump, and also the additive helps algae from forming in the tank. We personally run stanadyne additive, because well, they make injections pumps, they know what they need :p
Painting my grill black was one of my favorite cosmetic mods so far, and window tint too
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-26-2014, 12:00 AM)JACOBDUB I couldn't get it to start up right away once I had it all together. Eventually got it...
I did pull the injector lines (no, I don't think I had a great reason to), but that wouldn't drain enough fuel to cause problems, right?
Exactly the problem. Air in circuit anywhere b/w tank and injector, but especially up in the high psi section, will cause non-starting, hesitation and sundry other issues until said air is purged. Easy enough to introduce into and easy enough to evacuate from the system as well. Simple things like loosing each injector while cranking until leaking fuel is visible or filling the new spin on fuel filter before attaching can solve air in fuel issues rather quickly.
(05-26-2014, 12:00 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I feel like I should've been warned that the grille was held on by so many hidden screws, lol.
Ahhhhhhh, I remember my first rodeo! 8-D To say you haven't even begun to scratch the tip of the iceberg, or better yet, scratch your head for the first of aquintillion times would be the understatement of today. Ahhh, dammmz those krazy krauts, you klaim?!?! You need a new grille insert anyways and they're cheap enough, so what are you waiting for??? As an added bonus, you have a throwaway to paint different colors or experiment with how you see fit. Now how cool is that?
Alas, welcome to the fray my friend. With you, the force is strong. Ignore those silly voices who tell you this is malady, for they know not what they speak. There is nothing wrong with your newly discovered obsess.... errr, I mean affair, nothing wrong with what we do and I'll be sticking to that story, I suggest you do too! ;-)
MBZ123
(05-26-2014, 12:00 AM)JACOBDUB I couldn't get it to start up right away once I had it all together. Eventually got it...
I did pull the injector lines (no, I don't think I had a great reason to), but that wouldn't drain enough fuel to cause problems, right?
Exactly the problem. Air in circuit anywhere b/w tank and injector, but especially up in the high psi section, will cause non-starting, hesitation and sundry other issues until said air is purged. Easy enough to introduce into and easy enough to evacuate from the system as well. Simple things like loosing each injector while cranking until leaking fuel is visible or filling the new spin on fuel filter before attaching can solve air in fuel issues rather quickly.
(05-26-2014, 12:00 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I feel like I should've been warned that the grille was held on by so many hidden screws, lol.
Ahhhhhhh, I remember my first rodeo! 8-D To say you haven't even begun to scratch the tip of the iceberg, or better yet, scratch your head for the first of aquintillion times would be the understatement of today. Ahhh, dammmz those krazy krauts, you klaim?!?! You need a new grille insert anyways and they're cheap enough, so what are you waiting for??? As an added bonus, you have a throwaway to paint different colors or experiment with how you see fit. Now how cool is that?
Alas, welcome to the fray my friend. With you, the force is strong. Ignore those silly voices who tell you this is malady, for they know not what they speak. There is nothing wrong with your newly discovered obsess.... errr, I mean affair, nothing wrong with what we do and I'll be sticking to that story, I suggest you do too! ;-)
MBZ123
Then it got much worse. I got the grille on the car, then I started troubleshooting the shifting problem. Yesterday going to/from work it was terrible. It felt like I was breaking something every time the car changed gears, up and down. I felt like a champ for 5 minutes when I immediately figured out that the vac line to the modulator was loose (had fallen off) and fixed it up quick. Then, however, it all came crashing down when I slammed the hood shut and remembered that I hadn't fed the release latch thing through the grille yet... Long story short, I looked like (and was) a dumbass, snapped a piece off the grille on accident, then snapped another piece off on purpose. The grey lever thing was wedge in there in a way that made it impossible to open the hood, or even to shut it fully. Looks like I can get a new plastic insert piece for $30-40, but I might just see if I can't mask it up with some grille badges
. I guess I just got distracted.Anyway, the learning continues...
1984 300D TurboDiesel
Today was pretty hilarious (sort of). Like I said, I'd taken the grille off to paint it, so I figured I'd put it back together so I had a grille on the car again, etc etc. I had a hell of a time getting the tri-star back together and on the hood. It was ridiculous. When I finally got it, it went easy, but for like 20 minutes I was just wrestling to get the spring pulled back out and everything, lol.
Then it got much worse. I got the grille on the car, then I started troubleshooting the shifting problem. Yesterday going to/from work it was terrible. It felt like I was breaking something every time the car changed gears, up and down. I felt like a champ for 5 minutes when I immediately figured out that the vac line to the modulator was loose (had fallen off) and fixed it up quick. Then, however, it all came crashing down when I slammed the hood shut and remembered that I hadn't fed the release latch thing through the grille yet... Long story short, I looked like (and was) a dumbass, snapped a piece off the grille on accident, then snapped another piece off on purpose. The grey lever thing was wedge in there in a way that made it impossible to open the hood, or even to shut it fully. Looks like I can get a new plastic insert piece for $30-40, but I might just see if I can't mask it up with some grille badges . I guess I just got distracted.
Anyway, the learning continues...
1984 300D TurboDiesel
1984 300D TurboDiesel
MFSuper90, I was actually wondering about the glow plugs. Like I said, I'm replacing them, but this is my first diesel and I've actually been really surprised how mandatory it always is to use them. Today the sun was beating down on the hood for hours and I still had to hit 'em for 5-10 seconds to get it to fire up. Is it normal for these cars to always need the pre-glow? Makes some sense to me that it would, but I don't have a lot of experience..
1984 300D TurboDiesel
1984 300D TurboDiesel
Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
1984 300D TurboDiesel
(05-29-2014, 02:11 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
Yes, but it allows over-fueling and removed the factory overboost limiter. If you can't control your foot you will waste fuel. Properly adjusted & operational feels the same as removed.
In stock form, when you overboost it cuts airflow to the ALDA, which reduced fuel output and reduces boost. So if you remove it get a boost gauge and watch it. On WOT pulls some people see the boost creep up. 12-14psi is the max the stock fuel pump can match. Factory was 8-9psi.
You cover it with a rubber cap typically used on chair legs.
That's an excellent place to feed a boost gauge.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-29-2014, 08:32 AM #15(05-29-2014, 02:11 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
Yes, but it allows over-fueling and removed the factory overboost limiter. If you can't control your foot you will waste fuel. Properly adjusted & operational feels the same as removed.
In stock form, when you overboost it cuts airflow to the ALDA, which reduced fuel output and reduces boost. So if you remove it get a boost gauge and watch it. On WOT pulls some people see the boost creep up. 12-14psi is the max the stock fuel pump can match. Factory was 8-9psi.
You cover it with a rubber cap typically used on chair legs.
That's an excellent place to feed a boost gauge.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-29-2014, 08:32 AM)Simpler=Better(05-29-2014, 02:11 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
Yes, but it allows over-fueling and removed the factory overboost limiter. If you can't control your foot you will waste fuel. Properly adjusted & operational feels the same as removed.
In stock form, when you overboost it cuts airflow to the ALDA, which reduced fuel output and reduces boost. So if you remove it get a boost gauge and watch it. On WOT pulls some people see the boost creep up. 12-14psi is the max the stock fuel pump can match. Factory was 8-9psi.
You cover it with a rubber cap typically used on chair legs.
That's an excellent place to feed a boost gauge.
The stock pump will actually push the stock charger way past 12-14psi. It is the wastegate that keeps it from boosting any farther than that. Modify the wastegate and it will go near 25-30lbs with the fuel adjusted on your IP. But they is WAY too much boost for a stock turbo.
Really anything above 12-14psi Simpler was talking about it too much for the stock charger, it puts it out of its efficiency range and creates a lot of heat and back pressure.
I ran mine for about a year at 15-18psi, and the charger was just in a short period of time. So I upgraded
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-29-2014, 08:32 AM)Simpler=Better(05-29-2014, 02:11 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
Yes, but it allows over-fueling and removed the factory overboost limiter. If you can't control your foot you will waste fuel. Properly adjusted & operational feels the same as removed.
In stock form, when you overboost it cuts airflow to the ALDA, which reduced fuel output and reduces boost. So if you remove it get a boost gauge and watch it. On WOT pulls some people see the boost creep up. 12-14psi is the max the stock fuel pump can match. Factory was 8-9psi.
You cover it with a rubber cap typically used on chair legs.
That's an excellent place to feed a boost gauge.
The stock pump will actually push the stock charger way past 12-14psi. It is the wastegate that keeps it from boosting any farther than that. Modify the wastegate and it will go near 25-30lbs with the fuel adjusted on your IP. But they is WAY too much boost for a stock turbo.
Really anything above 12-14psi Simpler was talking about it too much for the stock charger, it puts it out of its efficiency range and creates a lot of heat and back pressure.
I ran mine for about a year at 15-18psi, and the charger was just in a short period of time. So I upgraded
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-29-2014, 09:08 AM)MFSuper90(05-29-2014, 08:32 AM)Simpler=Better(05-29-2014, 02:11 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
Yes, but it allows over-fueling and removed the factory overboost limiter. If you can't control your foot you will waste fuel. Properly adjusted & operational feels the same as removed.
In stock form, when you overboost it cuts airflow to the ALDA, which reduced fuel output and reduces boost. So if you remove it get a boost gauge and watch it. On WOT pulls some people see the boost creep up. 12-14psi is the max the stock fuel pump can match. Factory was 8-9psi.
You cover it with a rubber cap typically used on chair legs.
That's an excellent place to feed a boost gauge.
The stock pump will actually push the stock charger way past 12-14psi. It is the wastegate that keeps it from boosting any farther than that. Modify the wastegate and it will go near 25-30lbs with the fuel adjusted on your IP. But they is WAY too much boost for a stock turbo.
Really anything above 12-14psi Simpler was talking about it too much for the stock charger, it puts it out of its efficiency range and creates a lot of heat and back pressure.
I ran mine for about a year at 15-18psi, and the charger was just in a short period of time. So I upgraded
You're on the money. Sorry I didn't phrase it right, what I meant was that the stock MW pump without any internal work can only put out enough fuel to require 12ish pounds of boost. So if you have a stock pump and constantly run around at 18, you're wasting energy.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-29-2014, 12:24 PM #17(05-29-2014, 09:08 AM)MFSuper90(05-29-2014, 08:32 AM)Simpler=Better(05-29-2014, 02:11 AM)JACOBDUB Also, I see you (and others) have deleted their ALDA. Sounds like that helps give a more "linear" throttle response when getting going, and I've been thinking about whether I'm going to want to do it or not. I get that it's a little bit of a controversial topic. Do you actually physically remove it from the IP? If so, is there like a big hole that needs to be blanked off? Can I just rob the boost line then for my gauge?
Yes, but it allows over-fueling and removed the factory overboost limiter. If you can't control your foot you will waste fuel. Properly adjusted & operational feels the same as removed.
In stock form, when you overboost it cuts airflow to the ALDA, which reduced fuel output and reduces boost. So if you remove it get a boost gauge and watch it. On WOT pulls some people see the boost creep up. 12-14psi is the max the stock fuel pump can match. Factory was 8-9psi.
You cover it with a rubber cap typically used on chair legs.
That's an excellent place to feed a boost gauge.
The stock pump will actually push the stock charger way past 12-14psi. It is the wastegate that keeps it from boosting any farther than that. Modify the wastegate and it will go near 25-30lbs with the fuel adjusted on your IP. But they is WAY too much boost for a stock turbo.
Really anything above 12-14psi Simpler was talking about it too much for the stock charger, it puts it out of its efficiency range and creates a lot of heat and back pressure.
I ran mine for about a year at 15-18psi, and the charger was just in a short period of time. So I upgraded
You're on the money. Sorry I didn't phrase it right, what I meant was that the stock MW pump without any internal work can only put out enough fuel to require 12ish pounds of boost. So if you have a stock pump and constantly run around at 18, you're wasting energy.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
You should listen to these guys! They know their stuff. Shiiiiiiiit, if there was a superturbodiesel certification these guys would all have them.
I have no idea about this stuff. Sorry I cant input. If you need help turbo charging a 616, Im your guy.
Or setting up networks and computer shit.
Im also your guy.
Purplecomputer
05-29-2014, 03:48 PM #18HE NEEDS MORE TURBO!
You should listen to these guys! They know their stuff. Shiiiiiiiit, if there was a superturbodiesel certification these guys would all have them.
I have no idea about this stuff. Sorry I cant input. If you need help turbo charging a 616, Im your guy.
Or setting up networks and computer shit.
Im also your guy.
(05-29-2014, 03:48 PM)Purplecomputer Or setting up networks and computer shit.
Im also your guy.
Lmao, I know how to use a smartphone and a computer, anything past that you might as well give me a hammer
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-29-2014, 03:48 PM)Purplecomputer Or setting up networks and computer shit.
Im also your guy.
Lmao, I know how to use a smartphone and a computer, anything past that you might as well give me a hammer
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-29-2014, 03:48 PM)Purplecomputer HE NEEDS MORE TURBO!
You should listen to these guys! They know their stuff. Shiiiiiiiit, if there was a superturbodiesel certification these guys would all have them.
I have no idea about this stuff. Sorry I cant input. If you need help turbo charging a 616, Im your guy.
Or setting up networks and computer shit.
Im also your guy.
or fender repair
Austincarnut
05-29-2014, 09:13 PM #20(05-29-2014, 03:48 PM)Purplecomputer HE NEEDS MORE TURBO!
You should listen to these guys! They know their stuff. Shiiiiiiiit, if there was a superturbodiesel certification these guys would all have them.
I have no idea about this stuff. Sorry I cant input. If you need help turbo charging a 616, Im your guy.
Or setting up networks and computer shit.
Im also your guy.
or fender repair
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