What kind of 'oil' are you using???
What kind of 'oil' are you using???
but i can't find the right oil to my engine
(i ripped out metal-bearing few days ago)
guys in my hood are using Motul 300v 15W-40 or Omega G1 15w-50
kinda like that.
What you guys are using??
-------------------------------------------
2002. 09 Ssangyong Musso SUT
OM662STP + 7.5mm + TD06-25G with customized 84mm compressor(2.4Bar)
-------------------------------------------
2002. 12 Ssangyong Korando
OM662LA 2.9ltr + RS191 5.5mm stock
-------------------------------------------
i was using 10W-40 MB 229.1 stock oil, 5w-30 racing oil blablabla
but i can't find the right oil to my engine
(i ripped out metal-bearing few days ago)
guys in my hood are using Motul 300v 15W-40 or Omega G1 15w-50
kinda like that.
What you guys are using??
-------------------------------------------
2002. 09 Ssangyong Musso SUT
OM662STP + 7.5mm + TD06-25G with customized 84mm compressor(2.4Bar)
-------------------------------------------
2002. 12 Ssangyong Korando
OM662LA 2.9ltr + RS191 5.5mm stock
-------------------------------------------
In anything race or high performance, we run and I highly recommend Schaeffers Supreme 9000 5w-50 or Supreme 7000 20w-50.
I had a friend that has dyno proven that schaeffers makes more power on the dyno than other leading oil companies. My neighbor ran NTPA light pro pulling tractor, and when he switched to schaeffers he said the whole engine ran cooler and better.
I am not a sales person, I am just a firm believer. I have seen it proven many times
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I use mobil 15w-40 in my everyday driver 617.
In anything race or high performance, we run and I highly recommend Schaeffers Supreme 9000 5w-50 or Supreme 7000 20w-50.
I had a friend that has dyno proven that schaeffers makes more power on the dyno than other leading oil companies. My neighbor ran NTPA light pro pulling tractor, and when he switched to schaeffers he said the whole engine ran cooler and better.
I am not a sales person, I am just a firm believer. I have seen it proven many times
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(06-05-2014, 07:49 AM)pmj4147 i was using 10W-40 MB 229.1 stock oil, 5w-30 racing oil blablabla
but i can't find the right oil to my engine
(i ripped out metal-bearing few days ago)
guys in my hood are using Motul 300v 15W-40 or Omega G1 15w-50
kinda like that.
What you guys are using??
Austincarnut
06-05-2014, 08:48 PM #4Delvac fool
(06-05-2014, 07:49 AM)pmj4147 i was using 10W-40 MB 229.1 stock oil, 5w-30 racing oil blablabla
but i can't find the right oil to my engine
(i ripped out metal-bearing few days ago)
guys in my hood are using Motul 300v 15W-40 or Omega G1 15w-50
kinda like that.
What you guys are using??
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-06-2014, 02:16 PM #5Summer, 15-40 Rotella, winter I use 5-40
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
06-06-2014, 03:25 PM #65-50 synthetic is on sale here for $3.50/L should I stock up?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
- viscosity
- quality
Viscosity: less important. But should be chosen in accordance to a) manufacturers recommendations, b) climate conditions. The first bit, p.e. "15W" tells you about the viscosity in low temperatures; "W" for "winter". The next bit is the viscosity rating for warmer temperatures. The issues is that not all oils are rated at th same temperatures. But as a guide it's still a reliable figure.
So if you have, let's say an average temperature in summer of like 30°C, and often above 35°C - a 0W-40 oil is probably too thin. This oil however would probably work well in winter conditions. And so on and on. The higher the number, the "thicker" the oil. The higer the temperature, the higher the "summer" rating should be. At least W123s and W124s still have a handy temperature/oil grade diagramme in the user manual...
Next bit: quality, the API rating. The higher, the "better". I think MB does not recommend anything below API SF, which is pretty high up the range. Especially in a Turbocharged high-performance engine I'd look especially for a very high quality oil with high shear resistance. And also I'd use an engine oil that's rated for use with diesel engines. They usually have higher contents of detergents to wash out soot buildup in the engine (as we all know, diesel oil is pitch-black). API-CF is the highest diesel-rating. API-CC is the lowest and not recommended for turbo engines... High quality oil usually also have a lot more usefull additives. Detergents, stuff to improve shear resistance and to prevent the oil from carbonizing.
And then there's the choice of wheter to use synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral oils... My opinion: at least semi-synhetic. They are usually of a higher quality. In my Mini I've used mineral oils - based on what "the internet" said. I've had high oil consumption. With semi-synthetic high quality oils the oil consumption went down. And that's another point: those high-tech oils are able to withstand higher temperatures without vapourizing.
Personaly I'm using an oil with added MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide) as solid lubricant. It's been used allready in WW2 to allow planes to land in case of emergency (oil tank hit) and allowed the engine to run for several more minutes without seizing... It's probably highly unneccesary in a 147HP diesel engine - but oh well.
I've used cheaper oil before - with this the engine also lost some oil leaks. Which is another point worth mentioning; higher quality oils often contain a good amount of additives to take care of old rubber seals. Oil consumption went down from 1l/10.000km to 0.
All in all - it's basically a semi-religious rocket-science to chose the right oil. What I'm actually sayin is simply put: buy the oil that suits you climate conditions (viscosity) and get the highest quality (API rating) you can.
DiseaselWeasel
06-30-2014, 05:32 AM #9There are two things to engine oil:
- viscosity
- quality
Viscosity: less important. But should be chosen in accordance to a) manufacturers recommendations, b) climate conditions. The first bit, p.e. "15W" tells you about the viscosity in low temperatures; "W" for "winter". The next bit is the viscosity rating for warmer temperatures. The issues is that not all oils are rated at th same temperatures. But as a guide it's still a reliable figure.
So if you have, let's say an average temperature in summer of like 30°C, and often above 35°C - a 0W-40 oil is probably too thin. This oil however would probably work well in winter conditions. And so on and on. The higher the number, the "thicker" the oil. The higer the temperature, the higher the "summer" rating should be. At least W123s and W124s still have a handy temperature/oil grade diagramme in the user manual...
Next bit: quality, the API rating. The higher, the "better". I think MB does not recommend anything below API SF, which is pretty high up the range. Especially in a Turbocharged high-performance engine I'd look especially for a very high quality oil with high shear resistance. And also I'd use an engine oil that's rated for use with diesel engines. They usually have higher contents of detergents to wash out soot buildup in the engine (as we all know, diesel oil is pitch-black). API-CF is the highest diesel-rating. API-CC is the lowest and not recommended for turbo engines... High quality oil usually also have a lot more usefull additives. Detergents, stuff to improve shear resistance and to prevent the oil from carbonizing.
And then there's the choice of wheter to use synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral oils... My opinion: at least semi-synhetic. They are usually of a higher quality. In my Mini I've used mineral oils - based on what "the internet" said. I've had high oil consumption. With semi-synthetic high quality oils the oil consumption went down. And that's another point: those high-tech oils are able to withstand higher temperatures without vapourizing.
Personaly I'm using an oil with added MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide) as solid lubricant. It's been used allready in WW2 to allow planes to land in case of emergency (oil tank hit) and allowed the engine to run for several more minutes without seizing... It's probably highly unneccesary in a 147HP diesel engine - but oh well.
I've used cheaper oil before - with this the engine also lost some oil leaks. Which is another point worth mentioning; higher quality oils often contain a good amount of additives to take care of old rubber seals. Oil consumption went down from 1l/10.000km to 0.
All in all - it's basically a semi-religious rocket-science to chose the right oil. What I'm actually sayin is simply put: buy the oil that suits you climate conditions (viscosity) and get the highest quality (API rating) you can.
(06-30-2014, 05:32 AM)DiseaselWeasel All in all - it's basically a semi-religious rocket-science to chose the right oil. What I'm actually sayin is simply put: buy the oil that suits you climate conditions (viscosity) and get the highest quality (API rating) you can.
BAMP!!! There it is... BAMP!!! There it is...
If only every single oil thread could end with that statement. If only...
I find it comical how some "experts" will dump a FOOK-TON of monies into their motor and then set off on some mission to discover the absolute cheapest motor oil they can run in that exact same powerplant! AND THEN wax on like a religious zealot about their findings to an all too receptive and game interwebs audience. Priceless. Wait, wait, hold on a second, I gotta get more butter for my popcorn.
OK, so appropriate weight for the climate and the best quality you can afford. Doesn't sound like rocket surgery to me. O, and one more thing. Just a minor addition. Keep an eye peeled for the snake oil salesman, there's always one. Us humans are needlessly easy prey.
MBZ123
(06-30-2014, 05:32 AM)DiseaselWeasel All in all - it's basically a semi-religious rocket-science to chose the right oil. What I'm actually sayin is simply put: buy the oil that suits you climate conditions (viscosity) and get the highest quality (API rating) you can.
BAMP!!! There it is... BAMP!!! There it is...
If only every single oil thread could end with that statement. If only...
I find it comical how some "experts" will dump a FOOK-TON of monies into their motor and then set off on some mission to discover the absolute cheapest motor oil they can run in that exact same powerplant! AND THEN wax on like a religious zealot about their findings to an all too receptive and game interwebs audience. Priceless. Wait, wait, hold on a second, I gotta get more butter for my popcorn.
OK, so appropriate weight for the climate and the best quality you can afford. Doesn't sound like rocket surgery to me. O, and one more thing. Just a minor addition. Keep an eye peeled for the snake oil salesman, there's always one. Us humans are needlessly easy prey.
MBZ123
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