STD Other Projects W124 OM606.910 swap gearbox, turbo, electronic IP and etc from W210

W124 OM606.910 swap gearbox, turbo, electronic IP and etc from W210

W124 OM606.910 swap gearbox, turbo, electronic IP and etc from W210

 
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hifu
Naturally-aspirated

3
07-21-2014, 04:31 PM #1
Hello all, this is my first post here Smile
I would like to present my project, perhaps the only one in the World, unless someone did it and I did not hear about it.

The post is google translation from Polish, with Kajtek1 ironing obvious errors, so excuse some imperfections.

This originally was W124 OM606.910 factory - naturally aspirated 136HP engine with 4-speed automatic transmission 722.4.
What I did upgrade is adding turbo from W210, as amended by the injection pump from the W210 electronically controlled and 5-speed automatic transmission 722.6 also from W210 + the rest of the components that are necessary for proper operation. All original parts, without any custom modules etc.

In short, this is W210 power-plant in W124 body, that was the intention. I drove W210 3.0TD and I wanted to have the same performance in my W124. ;]
Fast, dynamic, delicate gear change, fifth gear for long cruising.

At the beginning I would like to highlight that the project was done with little hesitation if it succeeds, so please do not pay attention to the aesthetics of, because I did not focus too much on it and now I regret it ... Well, but what is delayed is not to flee Smile

I have read various topics about modifications and every time I came across some swap OM606 + 722.6 gearbox and electronics, each claimed that is impossible to do and so does not work. You have to change the pump on the mechanical with manual transmission, eventually standalone controller which is very expensive, or do nothing at all. As you can see, however, possible.


From W210 I have moved following parts:
  • Turbo
  • Exhaust manifold
  • Intake manifold
  • Tube trailing oil from the turbo to the engine block
  • Injection pump
  • The whole basis of the fuel filter
  • 722.6 transmission
  • Intercooler
  • Wastegate valve
  • EGR valve
  • Air pressure sensor in the intake manifold
  • Air temperature sensor in the pipe upstream
  • CPS
  • Water temperature sensor
  • MAF
  • Drive-shaft
  • Rear differential
  • ABS / ASR (donor does not have ESP)
  • Servo
  • Pedal Position Sensor
  • Cruise control switch
  • Cluster (temporarily)
  • Ignition
  • Central locking pump (A37)
  • Transmission controller (ETC N15 / 3)
  • Driver ASR / ABS (N47)
  • Relay module (K40)
  • BAS controller (N48)
  • SAM (N10 / 1)
  • Preheating relay (N14)
  • Module (N70) for the remote
  • ABS sensors on each wheel
  • Gear selector
  • Flywheel
  • Crankcase ventilation tube
  • The brake pedal with sensor
  • Gas pedal
  • and of a million cables


Of course, not everything fits perfectly, you had a few odd tricks.
  • Transmission 722.6 although larger than 722.4 W124 entered into a tunnel without major problems, there is even a place to insert the wrench and tighten the screws, you just need to have a small nimble hands Smile
  • Transmission mount 722.6 screwed to the base of 722.4, easily fits in the original holes.
  • The drive-shaft had to be reduced by 4 cm shorter due to the wheelbase and axle transmission generally have the same length as W124, only the shaft joints are thicker and have a larger diameter, the same as the shaft is much thicker.
  • The support shaft of W210 had to get some extra mount in the tunnel, because it is some 10-15 cm further than the W124.
  • Rear differential fits without problems into original mounting W124.
  • Axle shafts were from the W124, with pressed-in joints at the ends of the ABS sensor rings - fit without a problem.
  • Front factory Hubs did not fit the number of grooves on the ABS sensor, W124 have 96, W210 have 48, so I have machined and studded sleeve with milled grooves 48.
  • The rear control arms hub are machined to make space for ABS sensors and was gently milled where it comes from inside the axleshaft to fit the ring sensors.
  • Gear selector in W210 have identical mounting holes as W124 so this was not a problem, it is only about 2cm taller and a little bit sticking out as you can see in the pictures. The hole in the wood fit so there was nothing to spoil Smile
  • Rod between the selector and the gearbox had to be shorten and slightly bent to be suitable length and not interfere with shaft joint.
  • Intake were hand-made with silicone connectors and aluminium pipes.
  • From original exhaust system I left only rear muffler - catalyst and center muffler were cut off.
  • For the turbo lubrication I took from oil pressure sensor, put tee and connect the hydraulic line to the turbine.
  • Turbo return oil flow directly to the block as on W210, I found original place on the engine block, only had to drill a hole and make two threads.
  • ASR and door lock buttons have been modified by adding the resistors etc. to work with W210 modules

On the occasion of unscrewing everything I also replaced:
  • Bearing front / rear
  • Sealants
  • Floating sleeves
  • Propeller shaft and bearing
  • Differential rubber mounting
  • Differential seal ring + oil
  • Discs front / rear
  • OEM pads front
  • Rear pads
  • Brake calipers regeneration, cleaning, painting, new vents, rubber, piston as necesary + new fluid
  • Rear brake rubber hoses
  • Emergency brake set
  • Gearbox oil, filter and gasket, plug in the gearbox as soon as everything started to work.
  • Rear suspension arm set
  • Rear swaybar rubber
  • Rear subframe bushings
  • Intake camshaft ......

Generally ASR, ABS works, cruise control works, limiter operates, the pilot (minnow) central locking works, turn signals flash when closing / opening, switch ASR running, central locking with the button on the console works, transmission works perfectly as the W210. W / S mode, diagnostic socket, and w210 speedo also works.
W124 speedometer does not work, (still working on it) and preglow light does not work, I did not manage to "pull" it from CAN

All the old systems W124 obviously work.
I already drove about 7000 miles of this modification and the time everything works perfectly no problems.

I do not have 99% pictures, I took pictures by phone and the card was broken. Unfortunately I did not have backup.
There are only photos of the finished car.

In a few days I will put pictures of the underside of the car and a video from the ride.
At the moment there is only one video, of acceleration, from before seven months, before it was all ready.
LINK
Before this modification, when engine was N/A, 0-100km/h in 16sec. And now its about 9sec.

Pictures:

Selector, cruise control switch, ignition, key, two new buttons on the console, one of the ASR and the other from closing the door.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]
[Image: image.jpg]


Cluster from W210, lying on passenger floor Smile
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Plug / socket cable between the controller and the injection pump. Servo, EGR valve and air temperature sensor, motor, ABS pump and Pedal Position Sensor, IP.
Better photos will do when I take off intake manifold.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


MAF, turbo, manifold, intake to the intercooler, the modules behind the battery.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Freshly painted motor cover and the front hub after the modifications.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Rear bearings on the left new Optimal which have bad construction, on the right old Timken. See the difference on the inner ring, therefore they do not fit. Oil and filter box, a new front brake disc with a fresh caliper.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Donor parts, yet entirely Well, disassembled and a pair of wires.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]
This post was last modified: 07-21-2014, 04:37 PM by hifu.
hifu
07-21-2014, 04:31 PM #1

Hello all, this is my first post here Smile
I would like to present my project, perhaps the only one in the World, unless someone did it and I did not hear about it.

The post is google translation from Polish, with Kajtek1 ironing obvious errors, so excuse some imperfections.

This originally was W124 OM606.910 factory - naturally aspirated 136HP engine with 4-speed automatic transmission 722.4.
What I did upgrade is adding turbo from W210, as amended by the injection pump from the W210 electronically controlled and 5-speed automatic transmission 722.6 also from W210 + the rest of the components that are necessary for proper operation. All original parts, without any custom modules etc.

In short, this is W210 power-plant in W124 body, that was the intention. I drove W210 3.0TD and I wanted to have the same performance in my W124. ;]
Fast, dynamic, delicate gear change, fifth gear for long cruising.

At the beginning I would like to highlight that the project was done with little hesitation if it succeeds, so please do not pay attention to the aesthetics of, because I did not focus too much on it and now I regret it ... Well, but what is delayed is not to flee Smile

I have read various topics about modifications and every time I came across some swap OM606 + 722.6 gearbox and electronics, each claimed that is impossible to do and so does not work. You have to change the pump on the mechanical with manual transmission, eventually standalone controller which is very expensive, or do nothing at all. As you can see, however, possible.


From W210 I have moved following parts:

  • Turbo
  • Exhaust manifold
  • Intake manifold
  • Tube trailing oil from the turbo to the engine block
  • Injection pump
  • The whole basis of the fuel filter
  • 722.6 transmission
  • Intercooler
  • Wastegate valve
  • EGR valve
  • Air pressure sensor in the intake manifold
  • Air temperature sensor in the pipe upstream
  • CPS
  • Water temperature sensor
  • MAF
  • Drive-shaft
  • Rear differential
  • ABS / ASR (donor does not have ESP)
  • Servo
  • Pedal Position Sensor
  • Cruise control switch
  • Cluster (temporarily)
  • Ignition
  • Central locking pump (A37)
  • Transmission controller (ETC N15 / 3)
  • Driver ASR / ABS (N47)
  • Relay module (K40)
  • BAS controller (N48)
  • SAM (N10 / 1)
  • Preheating relay (N14)
  • Module (N70) for the remote
  • ABS sensors on each wheel
  • Gear selector
  • Flywheel
  • Crankcase ventilation tube
  • The brake pedal with sensor
  • Gas pedal
  • and of a million cables


Of course, not everything fits perfectly, you had a few odd tricks.
  • Transmission 722.6 although larger than 722.4 W124 entered into a tunnel without major problems, there is even a place to insert the wrench and tighten the screws, you just need to have a small nimble hands Smile
  • Transmission mount 722.6 screwed to the base of 722.4, easily fits in the original holes.
  • The drive-shaft had to be reduced by 4 cm shorter due to the wheelbase and axle transmission generally have the same length as W124, only the shaft joints are thicker and have a larger diameter, the same as the shaft is much thicker.
  • The support shaft of W210 had to get some extra mount in the tunnel, because it is some 10-15 cm further than the W124.
  • Rear differential fits without problems into original mounting W124.
  • Axle shafts were from the W124, with pressed-in joints at the ends of the ABS sensor rings - fit without a problem.
  • Front factory Hubs did not fit the number of grooves on the ABS sensor, W124 have 96, W210 have 48, so I have machined and studded sleeve with milled grooves 48.
  • The rear control arms hub are machined to make space for ABS sensors and was gently milled where it comes from inside the axleshaft to fit the ring sensors.
  • Gear selector in W210 have identical mounting holes as W124 so this was not a problem, it is only about 2cm taller and a little bit sticking out as you can see in the pictures. The hole in the wood fit so there was nothing to spoil Smile
  • Rod between the selector and the gearbox had to be shorten and slightly bent to be suitable length and not interfere with shaft joint.
  • Intake were hand-made with silicone connectors and aluminium pipes.
  • From original exhaust system I left only rear muffler - catalyst and center muffler were cut off.
  • For the turbo lubrication I took from oil pressure sensor, put tee and connect the hydraulic line to the turbine.
  • Turbo return oil flow directly to the block as on W210, I found original place on the engine block, only had to drill a hole and make two threads.
  • ASR and door lock buttons have been modified by adding the resistors etc. to work with W210 modules

On the occasion of unscrewing everything I also replaced:
  • Bearing front / rear
  • Sealants
  • Floating sleeves
  • Propeller shaft and bearing
  • Differential rubber mounting
  • Differential seal ring + oil
  • Discs front / rear
  • OEM pads front
  • Rear pads
  • Brake calipers regeneration, cleaning, painting, new vents, rubber, piston as necesary + new fluid
  • Rear brake rubber hoses
  • Emergency brake set
  • Gearbox oil, filter and gasket, plug in the gearbox as soon as everything started to work.
  • Rear suspension arm set
  • Rear swaybar rubber
  • Rear subframe bushings
  • Intake camshaft ......

Generally ASR, ABS works, cruise control works, limiter operates, the pilot (minnow) central locking works, turn signals flash when closing / opening, switch ASR running, central locking with the button on the console works, transmission works perfectly as the W210. W / S mode, diagnostic socket, and w210 speedo also works.
W124 speedometer does not work, (still working on it) and preglow light does not work, I did not manage to "pull" it from CAN

All the old systems W124 obviously work.
I already drove about 7000 miles of this modification and the time everything works perfectly no problems.

I do not have 99% pictures, I took pictures by phone and the card was broken. Unfortunately I did not have backup.
There are only photos of the finished car.

In a few days I will put pictures of the underside of the car and a video from the ride.
At the moment there is only one video, of acceleration, from before seven months, before it was all ready.
LINK
Before this modification, when engine was N/A, 0-100km/h in 16sec. And now its about 9sec.

Pictures:

Selector, cruise control switch, ignition, key, two new buttons on the console, one of the ASR and the other from closing the door.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]
[Image: image.jpg]


Cluster from W210, lying on passenger floor Smile
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Plug / socket cable between the controller and the injection pump. Servo, EGR valve and air temperature sensor, motor, ABS pump and Pedal Position Sensor, IP.
Better photos will do when I take off intake manifold.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


MAF, turbo, manifold, intake to the intercooler, the modules behind the battery.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Freshly painted motor cover and the front hub after the modifications.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Rear bearings on the left new Optimal which have bad construction, on the right old Timken. See the difference on the inner ring, therefore they do not fit. Oil and filter box, a new front brake disc with a fresh caliper.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]


Donor parts, yet entirely Well, disassembled and a pair of wires.
[Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg][Image: image.jpg]

Petar
7.5mm M pump

459
07-22-2014, 05:15 PM #2
Well nobody said it was impossible just that it is a lot of work.Most people here aren't very good with wiring.And that is a lot of wires Big Grin
It is MUCH simpler to install bigger elements in the mechanical pump.I think that i wouldn't bother keeping the electronic pump unless i am planning to keep the 722.6 transmission.
I know some people that are doing a similar project, an OM605 from a W202 in a W460 G class.Guess us from eastern Europe are good at this Big Grin . But i don't see the point of it since they are using a manual transmission.
BTW why didn't you transfer the complete OM606 from the W210 ? Since it is the turbo version it is much stronger internally.
Petar
07-22-2014, 05:15 PM #2

Well nobody said it was impossible just that it is a lot of work.Most people here aren't very good with wiring.And that is a lot of wires Big Grin
It is MUCH simpler to install bigger elements in the mechanical pump.I think that i wouldn't bother keeping the electronic pump unless i am planning to keep the 722.6 transmission.
I know some people that are doing a similar project, an OM605 from a W202 in a W460 G class.Guess us from eastern Europe are good at this Big Grin . But i don't see the point of it since they are using a manual transmission.
BTW why didn't you transfer the complete OM606 from the W210 ? Since it is the turbo version it is much stronger internally.

pryantcc
TA 0301

63
07-23-2014, 03:09 AM #3
Good man! I'm delighted you did this. I had been told several times that "It is not possible to make the electronics work in a different chassis". This always seemed incorrect to me as the chassis is just a lump of metal and there's no way the electronics know which lump of metal they are attached to. You took the correct approach and moved all the bits which the electronics like to see in order to feel comfortable and operate properly!

I considered it briefly for my project, but it was just too much work to bring the diff and ABS stuff, so I kept the electronic pump (I don't need increased performance), but went for a manual gearbox.

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
pryantcc
07-23-2014, 03:09 AM #3

Good man! I'm delighted you did this. I had been told several times that "It is not possible to make the electronics work in a different chassis". This always seemed incorrect to me as the chassis is just a lump of metal and there's no way the electronics know which lump of metal they are attached to. You took the correct approach and moved all the bits which the electronics like to see in order to feel comfortable and operate properly!

I considered it briefly for my project, but it was just too much work to bring the diff and ABS stuff, so I kept the electronic pump (I don't need increased performance), but went for a manual gearbox.


1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

hifu
Naturally-aspirated

3
07-23-2014, 05:37 PM #4
Quote:Well nobody said it was impossible
Some people say that it is impossible, mostly they who never do such things like this.

I just wanted to have 722.6 gearbox, this is my dailydriver. Smile

Quote:BTW why didn't you transfer the complete OM606 from the W210 ? Since it is the turbo version it is much stronger internally.
I did not take OM606 from W210 because this engine will be used to W124 Super Turbo Diesel Coupe project Smile

Quote:Good man! I'm delighted you did this.
Thank you very much Smile

Quote:This always seemed incorrect to me as the chassis is just a lump of metal and there's no way the electronics know which lump of metal they are attached to.
Exactly Smile I think in the same way.

Quote:I considered it briefly for my project, but it was just too much work to bring the diff and ABS stuff, so I kept the electronic pump (I don't need increased performance), but went for a manual gearbox.
At least half of the modification is by the automatic gearbox. With manual gearbox this would be a lot simpler. Smile
hifu
07-23-2014, 05:37 PM #4

Quote:Well nobody said it was impossible
Some people say that it is impossible, mostly they who never do such things like this.

I just wanted to have 722.6 gearbox, this is my dailydriver. Smile

Quote:BTW why didn't you transfer the complete OM606 from the W210 ? Since it is the turbo version it is much stronger internally.
I did not take OM606 from W210 because this engine will be used to W124 Super Turbo Diesel Coupe project Smile

Quote:Good man! I'm delighted you did this.
Thank you very much Smile

Quote:This always seemed incorrect to me as the chassis is just a lump of metal and there's no way the electronics know which lump of metal they are attached to.
Exactly Smile I think in the same way.

Quote:I considered it briefly for my project, but it was just too much work to bring the diff and ABS stuff, so I kept the electronic pump (I don't need increased performance), but went for a manual gearbox.
At least half of the modification is by the automatic gearbox. With manual gearbox this would be a lot simpler. Smile

Petar
7.5mm M pump

459
08-07-2014, 01:20 PM #5
If we divide everything into parts requirements for swapping an electronic pump engine into an older car are:
-Engine ECU
-The key and steering lock if you have the electronic key or DAS module and transponder ring if you have the old style immobilizer with the blade key that the pre 1997 W202 had.

If you want automatic transmission then you also need to swap:
-ABS
-Gearbox control unit

Am i thinking right that the ABS control unit sends signals to the gearbox control unit via CAN-bus ?

Edit:
It seems that it is possible to flash the engine ECU so that it doesn't require DAS. Read the following, also read post #80:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-c...ost4532786
This post was last modified: 08-07-2014, 01:21 PM by Petar.
Petar
08-07-2014, 01:20 PM #5

If we divide everything into parts requirements for swapping an electronic pump engine into an older car are:
-Engine ECU
-The key and steering lock if you have the electronic key or DAS module and transponder ring if you have the old style immobilizer with the blade key that the pre 1997 W202 had.

If you want automatic transmission then you also need to swap:
-ABS
-Gearbox control unit

Am i thinking right that the ABS control unit sends signals to the gearbox control unit via CAN-bus ?

Edit:
It seems that it is possible to flash the engine ECU so that it doesn't require DAS. Read the following, also read post #80:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-c...ost4532786

pryantcc
TA 0301

63
08-08-2014, 06:43 PM #6
(08-07-2014, 01:20 PM)Petar If we divide everything into parts requirements for swapping an electronic pump engine into an older car are:
-Engine ECU
-The key and steering lock if you have the electronic key or DAS module and transponder ring if you have the old style immobilizer with the blade key that the pre 1997 W202 had.

If you want automatic transmission then you also need to swap:
-ABS
-Gearbox control unit

Am i thinking right that the ABS control unit sends signals to the gearbox control unit via CAN-bus ?
Yes, the gearbox computer gets a speed signal from the ABS system. Without it, the gearbox sticks in limp mode.

(08-07-2014, 01:20 PM)Petar Edit
It seems that it is possible to flash the engine ECU so that it doesn't require DAS. Read the following, also read post #80:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-c...ost4532786
Interesting. On mine, I had a guy install a circuit which fakes the signal the ECU would receive from DAS. So, he sets the ECU into a state where it's waiting to learn the DAS signal. Tihs would normally be used for situations like where a new key is needed or something. He then instlals his DAS emulator (little fingernail sized circuit and 3 or 4 wires). Then, you disconnect the CAN bus from the car's ignition, and turn it on. The ECU learns the new code from the emulator which was installed, and from then on, you don't need the Mercedes key to start it.

From the link you added, my ECU expects a change in the signal from the MAF sensor when the EGR valve is opened. So, to block up the EGR, you can add a diode and resistor between EGR wire and MAF wire and this fools the computer into thinking there is less air being sucked in when the EGR valve is activated. It seems that in his W140 computer program, there was no MAF involved, so his ECU didn't care when the EGR was blocked up.

1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.
pryantcc
08-08-2014, 06:43 PM #6

(08-07-2014, 01:20 PM)Petar If we divide everything into parts requirements for swapping an electronic pump engine into an older car are:
-Engine ECU
-The key and steering lock if you have the electronic key or DAS module and transponder ring if you have the old style immobilizer with the blade key that the pre 1997 W202 had.

If you want automatic transmission then you also need to swap:
-ABS
-Gearbox control unit

Am i thinking right that the ABS control unit sends signals to the gearbox control unit via CAN-bus ?
Yes, the gearbox computer gets a speed signal from the ABS system. Without it, the gearbox sticks in limp mode.

(08-07-2014, 01:20 PM)Petar Edit
It seems that it is possible to flash the engine ECU so that it doesn't require DAS. Read the following, also read post #80:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-c...ost4532786
Interesting. On mine, I had a guy install a circuit which fakes the signal the ECU would receive from DAS. So, he sets the ECU into a state where it's waiting to learn the DAS signal. Tihs would normally be used for situations like where a new key is needed or something. He then instlals his DAS emulator (little fingernail sized circuit and 3 or 4 wires). Then, you disconnect the CAN bus from the car's ignition, and turn it on. The ECU learns the new code from the emulator which was installed, and from then on, you don't need the Mercedes key to start it.

From the link you added, my ECU expects a change in the signal from the MAF sensor when the EGR valve is opened. So, to block up the EGR, you can add a diode and resistor between EGR wire and MAF wire and this fools the computer into thinking there is less air being sucked in when the EGR valve is activated. It seems that in his W140 computer program, there was no MAF involved, so his ECU didn't care when the EGR was blocked up.


1992 W201 190D 2.0L and 1971 W108 280SE with OM606, electronic pump and 6 speed manual gearbox.

RonB
TA 0301

69
02-04-2015, 03:59 PM #7
I was thinking about searching for a donor wreck to do this swap into my W123. The engines i am thinking of are the OM 606-962 with 330NM of torque .....HeartHeartHeart
I am also thinking of keeping the manual trans in the car rather than using the automatic. A common thing here in OZ is to import a 'front cut' . With a front cut you get the whole engine and trans and the engine wiring which might be required to make my idea come to fruition.... the search continues.




[Image: 606D30LA_Motor.jpg]
RonB
02-04-2015, 03:59 PM #7

I was thinking about searching for a donor wreck to do this swap into my W123. The engines i am thinking of are the OM 606-962 with 330NM of torque .....HeartHeartHeart
I am also thinking of keeping the manual trans in the car rather than using the automatic. A common thing here in OZ is to import a 'front cut' . With a front cut you get the whole engine and trans and the engine wiring which might be required to make my idea come to fruition.... the search continues.




[Image: 606D30LA_Motor.jpg]

erx
w202 om606

323
02-04-2015, 04:35 PM #8
(07-21-2014, 04:31 PM)hifu Rear bearings on the left new Optimal which have bad construction, on the right old Timken. See the difference on the inner ring, therefore they do not fit. Oil and filter box, a new front brake disc with a fresh caliper.
[Image: image.jpg]
Inner radius is too small? I have used different bearings on different cars and Optimal and Meyle have the worst quality. Some of them are whining after 1000km. I use only SNR or SKF, they cost about three times more but you don't have to change them twice.

Nice project, never seen so many buttons on w124 center console.Smile
erx
02-04-2015, 04:35 PM #8

(07-21-2014, 04:31 PM)hifu Rear bearings on the left new Optimal which have bad construction, on the right old Timken. See the difference on the inner ring, therefore they do not fit. Oil and filter box, a new front brake disc with a fresh caliper.
[Image: image.jpg]
Inner radius is too small? I have used different bearings on different cars and Optimal and Meyle have the worst quality. Some of them are whining after 1000km. I use only SNR or SKF, they cost about three times more but you don't have to change them twice.

Nice project, never seen so many buttons on w124 center console.Smile

 
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