OM617 Timing for Mileage
OM617 Timing for Mileage
"Rusty" 85 300D
Just wondering what you guys have found for the best timing for mileage on a stock om617. On many older ford/chevy/dodge diesels I have found a number that works well. Haven't played with the 300D much. Just set it at 25* using the drip method for now.
"Rusty" 85 300D
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Mine isn't stock, but seemed to pick up a couple mpg's being advanced a little past stock. I never drip it, just go by sound and feel.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(07-22-2014, 12:30 PM)MFSuper90 Mine isn't stock, but seemed to pick up a couple mpg's being advanced a little past stock. I never drip it, just go by sound and feel.
If you were scribe a line across the pump and housing, then advance the pump, do you know how far the lines would be apart? 1/8" for example?
"Rusty" 85 300D
(07-22-2014, 12:30 PM)MFSuper90 Mine isn't stock, but seemed to pick up a couple mpg's being advanced a little past stock. I never drip it, just go by sound and feel.
If you were scribe a line across the pump and housing, then advance the pump, do you know how far the lines would be apart? 1/8" for example?
"Rusty" 85 300D
I would advance it even more, but I fear it not starting during our cold winters. If that becomes the case, I guess I will retard timing for winter time, and advance it during summer
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
It has a scribe on the housing and pump, and yes I would say that is probably close. My car is at the body shop currently so I cant go look for sure.
I would advance it even more, but I fear it not starting during our cold winters. If that becomes the case, I guess I will retard timing for winter time, and advance it during summer
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-23-2014, 09:24 AM #5I had a Mercedes mechanic tell me 26-27 was closer to stock but they didn't put that in the shop manuals because they wanted people to come in to get that kind of stuff done properly
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
(07-23-2014, 11:26 AM)Petar What i don't get is why does advanced timing make it harder to start in the cold? It doesn't make sense. I know that VE pumps have a cold start device that advances the timing about 5 degrees i think for cold starts.
You make a very valid point Petar, and honestly don't know why. I just know from my past experiences that if you advance the timing it makes them harder to start in colder weather.
I am trying to piece it all together in my head how to explain it scientifically, but Im not sure.
So maybe someone smarter than I am can explain
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(07-23-2014, 11:26 AM)Petar What i don't get is why does advanced timing make it harder to start in the cold? It doesn't make sense. I know that VE pumps have a cold start device that advances the timing about 5 degrees i think for cold starts.
You make a very valid point Petar, and honestly don't know why. I just know from my past experiences that if you advance the timing it makes them harder to start in colder weather.
I am trying to piece it all together in my head how to explain it scientifically, but Im not sure.
So maybe someone smarter than I am can explain
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
On the first tank of fuel following the chain replacement I noted a significant improvement monitoring the fuel gauge - I have a set of target number of miles for each tick on the gauge that allow me determine whether I'm at, above or below my target 30mpg. Where I would have expected 30 based on the driving profile, I got a measured 32.7 mpg. One tank does not make a conclusion, but half way through the second tank I'm way ahead of my target numbers so I'm very optimistic that around 7% increase will be where things settle out.
I don't have any specific data on timing for maximum mileage, but I'm quite convinced that it can have a significant effect. I just did the timing chain on my 617 installed in a 107. The chain had at least 270k miles on it so going with a new chain moved the timing 6 or more degrees. I haven't done a drip timing so I don't know what the actual timing is.
On the first tank of fuel following the chain replacement I noted a significant improvement monitoring the fuel gauge - I have a set of target number of miles for each tick on the gauge that allow me determine whether I'm at, above or below my target 30mpg. Where I would have expected 30 based on the driving profile, I got a measured 32.7 mpg. One tank does not make a conclusion, but half way through the second tank I'm way ahead of my target numbers so I'm very optimistic that around 7% increase will be where things settle out.
For instance if it normally advances 5 degrees at 3000 rpm with different springs it should advance 8 degrees.No idea where to get different springs from.Actually i have no idea if the springs in the timing device are removable ??
One idea i had was to modify the timing device in the chain sprocket.Grind out the stops for increased maximum advance and perhaps different springs for a more aggressive advance curve.
For instance if it normally advances 5 degrees at 3000 rpm with different springs it should advance 8 degrees.No idea where to get different springs from.Actually i have no idea if the springs in the timing device are removable ??
(07-27-2014, 05:49 PM)Petar One idea i had was to modify the timing device in the chain sprocket.Grind out the stops for increased maximum advance and perhaps different springs for a more aggressive advance curve.They are removable, I found that out the hard way when I was younger. I was pulling a junk engine apart, when I pulled the IP gear off springs flew everywhere
For instance if it normally advances 5 degrees at 3000 rpm with different springs it should advance 8 degrees.No idea where to get different springs from. Actually i have no idea if the springs in the timing device are removable ??
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(07-27-2014, 05:49 PM)Petar One idea i had was to modify the timing device in the chain sprocket.Grind out the stops for increased maximum advance and perhaps different springs for a more aggressive advance curve.They are removable, I found that out the hard way when I was younger. I was pulling a junk engine apart, when I pulled the IP gear off springs flew everywhere
For instance if it normally advances 5 degrees at 3000 rpm with different springs it should advance 8 degrees.No idea where to get different springs from. Actually i have no idea if the springs in the timing device are removable ??
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
08-01-2014, 12:25 AM #12I just maxed my IP timing as far as it would go... No idea where it is... I roll coal everywhere and seems like im getting between 24-26 mpg
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
carlitosgy6
08-08-2014, 08:35 PM #13Im running an stock ip with a kkk turbo, im running 27 degrees, on my winter trip to Chicago i saw 33mpg, is a ford ranger with a 5 speed
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