My 190d with a 606.962
My 190d with a 606.962
I've been doing plenty of research for the past 6 months (at least!), and bearing in mind I know fuck all about diesels I don't think i'm doing too bad.
I'd like to say thanks to everyone who has helped and given me advice so far, this would have been impossible without you guys and this forum!
So here we are today. There's been plenty of fucking about to get this far but it's not over yet!
The car in question is my lovely 190d.
![[Image: IMG_1178_zps69174f17.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/IMG_1178_zps69174f17.jpg.html)
I got this beast out the e300 last week.
![[Image: 2013-09-24123642_zps89f80713.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-24123642_zps89f80713.jpg.html)
And it's now sat on my driveway. YOLO
![[Image: 2013-09-26165540_zps1d0498bb.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-26165540_zps1d0498bb.jpg.html)
I found a suitable bolt to block off the EGR, welded it up and cut the end off.
![[Image: 2013-09-26174800_zpsd2050cbe.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-26174800_zpsd2050cbe.jpg.html)
Got the 602 ready for removal.
![[Image: 2013-09-26182047_zpsfa8b4fdd.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-26182047_zpsfa8b4fdd.jpg.html)
I Realised my new 603 IP had a bent delivery valve. Not sure how it happened but luckily theres a bosch diesel shop not far from me, so I removed the 606 IP and took both of them down, they swapped the bent one for a good one.
![[Image: 2013-09-27142905_zps705a4e82.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27142905_zps705a4e82.jpg.html)
I dont know what all this basket business is about but you dont need one for a 606. Theres no way the timing gear and chain can go anywhere, but I cable tied it to be doubly sure.
![[Image: 2013-09-27153110_zps45bf7ee6.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27153110_zps45bf7ee6.jpg.html)
May I just add that this thing is awesome! IR 2125 QTIMax. I bought it a little while ago but it's the first time it's had some use. Its really nice and small, very light (1kg) but still packs a punch.
![[Image: 2013-09-27153244_zpsd5705c60.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27153244_zpsd5705c60.jpg.html)
I replaced the waterpump and gasket. The old one had a plastic impeller but the new one is all metal
I couldnt get that little pipe off the old pump without breaking it as it had become brittle, so I thought fuck it it serves no purpose anyway lol.
![[Image: 2013-09-27180653_zps9906b76e.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27180653_zps9906b76e.jpg.html)
I removed all the bits I needed for the engine to give them a little spruce up. I am reusing a few bits from the 602 as it makes things easier, such as the power steering pump, alternator, vac pump, engine mount arms, oil filter housing - not quite sure on that one yet.
I put them in the parts washer and then went at them with a wire wheel on a bench grinder.
Before:
![[Image: 2013-09-27231832_zps8136c08f.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27231832_zps8136c08f.jpg.html)
![[Image: 2013-09-27231930_zps5a57ace2.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27231930_zps5a57ace2.jpg.html)
After:
![[Image: 2013-09-28013407_zps8e881f46.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-28013407_zps8e881f46.jpg.html)
![[Image: 2013-09-27234335_zps18c73e7c.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-09-27234335_zps18c73e7c.jpg.html)
My engine bay was filthy with 25 years of crap so I decided to give it a clean.
Before:
![[Image: 2013-10-01105422_zps5753be45.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-01105422_zps5753be45.jpg.html)
After:
![[Image: 2013-10-02133845_zps9bd6bdf3.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-02133845_zps9bd6bdf3.jpg.html)
I removed a bit of weight from my new flywheel (it's still heavier than the 602 flywheel!). The weight was removed from the other side of the starter gear.
![[Image: 2013-10-02173456_zpsd91fc917.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-02173456_zpsd91fc917.jpg.html)
So that's where we are at the moment. Ive hit a bit of a dead end and i'm not sure what to do. That's where you guys come in!
I took a look at my new sprinter single mass conversion flywheel and realised there was no rpm pickup sensor on the block (a la 602). The new flywheel also had 144 teeth, whereas the 602 one has 164 teeth.
Drilling a hole in the block for the sensor isnt a problem, but the incorrect amount of teeth will send the wrong signal to the tach.
My solution is to remove the starter gear from the 602 flywheel and stick it on the sprinter flywheel, They both have the right dimensions, ive compared it by eye and it looks pretty much the same, but I havent taken any measurements.
Now, is this going to be easily done or will it break if I try to remove it?
Do I just heat up the starter gear to remove it?
Now my second problem is the wiring for the glow plug relay.
The relay from the w210 is on the left, and the relay on the right is from the w201. And yes, someone has bodged a bit of wire in there!
![[Image: 2013-10-02140524_zpsfae1381f.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-02140524_zpsfae1381f.jpg.html)
The 210 relay uses a 3 pin connector with 2 wires going into it (white and brown).
The 201 relay has a 4 pin connector with 4 wires going into it (brown, purple, black, red).
Has anyone got a wiring diagram for this? Or better yet, can someone tell me what I have to do here?
Thanks for your help so far guys. I'll be updating this thread constantly.
I've been working on this on and off for just over a week now, and I think it's about time I put up a build thread.
I've been doing plenty of research for the past 6 months (at least!), and bearing in mind I know fuck all about diesels I don't think i'm doing too bad.
I'd like to say thanks to everyone who has helped and given me advice so far, this would have been impossible without you guys and this forum!
So here we are today. There's been plenty of fucking about to get this far but it's not over yet!
The car in question is my lovely 190d.
I got this beast out the e300 last week.
And it's now sat on my driveway. YOLO
I found a suitable bolt to block off the EGR, welded it up and cut the end off.
Got the 602 ready for removal.
I Realised my new 603 IP had a bent delivery valve. Not sure how it happened but luckily theres a bosch diesel shop not far from me, so I removed the 606 IP and took both of them down, they swapped the bent one for a good one.
I dont know what all this basket business is about but you dont need one for a 606. Theres no way the timing gear and chain can go anywhere, but I cable tied it to be doubly sure.
May I just add that this thing is awesome! IR 2125 QTIMax. I bought it a little while ago but it's the first time it's had some use. Its really nice and small, very light (1kg) but still packs a punch.
I replaced the waterpump and gasket. The old one had a plastic impeller but the new one is all metal
I couldnt get that little pipe off the old pump without breaking it as it had become brittle, so I thought fuck it it serves no purpose anyway lol.
I removed all the bits I needed for the engine to give them a little spruce up. I am reusing a few bits from the 602 as it makes things easier, such as the power steering pump, alternator, vac pump, engine mount arms, oil filter housing - not quite sure on that one yet.
I put them in the parts washer and then went at them with a wire wheel on a bench grinder.
Before:
After:
My engine bay was filthy with 25 years of crap so I decided to give it a clean.
Before:
After:
I removed a bit of weight from my new flywheel (it's still heavier than the 602 flywheel!). The weight was removed from the other side of the starter gear.
So that's where we are at the moment. Ive hit a bit of a dead end and i'm not sure what to do. That's where you guys come in!
I took a look at my new sprinter single mass conversion flywheel and realised there was no rpm pickup sensor on the block (a la 602). The new flywheel also had 144 teeth, whereas the 602 one has 164 teeth.
Drilling a hole in the block for the sensor isnt a problem, but the incorrect amount of teeth will send the wrong signal to the tach.
My solution is to remove the starter gear from the 602 flywheel and stick it on the sprinter flywheel, They both have the right dimensions, ive compared it by eye and it looks pretty much the same, but I havent taken any measurements.
Now, is this going to be easily done or will it break if I try to remove it?
Do I just heat up the starter gear to remove it?
Now my second problem is the wiring for the glow plug relay.
The relay from the w210 is on the left, and the relay on the right is from the w201. And yes, someone has bodged a bit of wire in there!
The 210 relay uses a 3 pin connector with 2 wires going into it (white and brown).
The 201 relay has a 4 pin connector with 4 wires going into it (brown, purple, black, red).
Has anyone got a wiring diagram for this? Or better yet, can someone tell me what I have to do here?
Thanks for your help so far guys. I'll be updating this thread constantly.
I don't know how the 210 relay works but the wire colors suggest that it is even simpler (brown is ground), try hooking power to those small wires and see if doing so connects the big wire to the six pins. Not sure if there's even a timer aspect to it like the older one has.
The 201 relay is pretty easy to use, here's the pinout: 31 -Ground, 15 ignition on, 50 starter cutoff, LA - glow indicator light. Unfortunately the bottom pins only have 5 with that black plastic filler pin, you need 6 for a 606.
I don't know how the 210 relay works but the wire colors suggest that it is even simpler (brown is ground), try hooking power to those small wires and see if doing so connects the big wire to the six pins. Not sure if there's even a timer aspect to it like the older one has.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-02-2013, 08:00 PM #3Starter rings come off really easy just heat it up until it falls off. Put the flywheel on a coffee can, heat the ring, and wait for it to fall off. To install the new one flip the flywheel over, line up the ring, heat it, and gently prod it into place with some pliers
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Our 606.962 has what looks to be a crank position sensor mount at the front looking at the front pulley which we intend to use for crank speed/position, easier than a flywheel mod we thought..?
Are you going to try to retain the steering box and squeeze a downpipe in? We removed the rack and piping from the w210 to convert the 190 to rack for clearance by making amounting cradle that holds it to the crossmember, I vote retain steering box tbh, what is your plan?
We did make a cradle in CAD so I can send you the dfx file to get one made from sheet metal if you go that route..
You have PM.
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I'm helping a friend do this conversion but retaining the 722.6 with a controller, I think the brown wire on the 606 glow relay is for a temp or timer sensor for glow duration, my friend bypassed it so the glow is activated by a push to make on the dash I'll get a pic of the bypass if your still struggling.
Our 606.962 has what looks to be a crank position sensor mount at the front looking at the front pulley which we intend to use for crank speed/position, easier than a flywheel mod we thought..?
Are you going to try to retain the steering box and squeeze a downpipe in? We removed the rack and piping from the w210 to convert the 190 to rack for clearance by making amounting cradle that holds it to the crossmember, I vote retain steering box tbh, what is your plan?
We did make a cradle in CAD so I can send you the dfx file to get one made from sheet metal if you go that route..
You have PM.
H.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
just jumped the 6'th wire, and it glow's fine, even in norwegian winters with -35 celcius, no problem :p
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
just jump from cyl 5 to 6 on the glow plugs, i did that on my W123, it had a 617 (5 cyl)
just jumped the 6'th wire, and it glow's fine, even in norwegian winters with -35 celcius, no problem :p
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
I guess I could jump it or bypass it, but i'd like to do it properly instead of just bodging it. I'll sort that once the engines in, im hoping it will be this weekend.
I tried heating the starter ring with my blowtorch but I wasnt getting anywhere with that lol. I'll try the oxy acetylene.
Im keeping the steering box for now but when I eventually get round to fitting a a big turbo then something will have to be done about it. We'll see what happens when the time comes.
In other news I picked up a nice 330ci Sport as a daily until the 190's done. Truth be told, im loving the comfort that comes with it, it's making me think twice about the 190!
Yeh thanks Hugh i got it in the end
I guess I could jump it or bypass it, but i'd like to do it properly instead of just bodging it. I'll sort that once the engines in, im hoping it will be this weekend.
I tried heating the starter ring with my blowtorch but I wasnt getting anywhere with that lol. I'll try the oxy acetylene.
Im keeping the steering box for now but when I eventually get round to fitting a a big turbo then something will have to be done about it. We'll see what happens when the time comes.
In other news I picked up a nice 330ci Sport as a daily until the 190's done. Truth be told, im loving the comfort that comes with it, it's making me think twice about the 190!
Another cock up I made was to not seal off the intake ports properly after I removed the manifold. It rained whilst the engine was sat on my drive and some water got into the ports. I cleared it with the air line and then squirted fuck loads of wd40 down the ports. Reckon i'll be alright?
Since the last update I have decided to reuse the 606 oil filter housing rather than swap it for the 602 housing. Now I cant remember if the oil cooler and pipes from the w210 were damaged or not, so I may have to go aftermarket if that's the case.
I installed the flywheel and then had to deal with the sensor. As you can see from this pic it's way off!
![[Image: 2013-10-06150107_zpsa72d7008.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-06150107_zpsa72d7008.jpg.html)
I decided to reuse the 602 sensor to save faffing about. The 602 sensor sits at an angle, to get this looking OE would mean that I'd have to drill through the block and mount it at an angle. Sod that!
![[Image: 2013-10-06150702_zpsffb6a69b.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-06150702_zpsffb6a69b.jpg.html)
I decided to turn the sensor around and cut a bit out of the gearbox instead. I filed the sensor square until it stopped interfering with the flywheel. It doesn't sit in the centre of the teeth but I reckon it will work fine. I may elongate the bolt hole through the sensor so I can adjust its position if I need to.
![[Image: 2013-10-06172341_zps51c5c5f8.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-06172341_zps51c5c5f8.jpg.html)
Once that was done I bolted up the new clutch, concentric slave cylinder, and then bolted the gearbox to the engine. It needed a bit of persuasion to go on but I got there eventually.
![[Image: 2013-10-06172356_zps516f9117.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-06172356_zps516f9117.jpg.html)
After that I enlisted the help of a couple of queers to move my engine into position whilst I took photos. It was a bit tricky getting it in, I had to hold the gearbox up from under the car as there wasn't much clearance.
![[Image: 2013-10-06175446_zps7067e6c0.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-06175446_zps7067e6c0.jpg.html)
In the end it went in alright, although there's not much room for a radiator, fan and intercooler. The bonnet wont shut properly either unless I remove (or shave down) the oil cap and the injector cover.
![[Image: 2013-10-06183829_zps6602c803.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-06183829_zps6602c803.jpg.html)
Hugh I know you told me to remove 15mm of material from the engine mount arms, but I honestly cant see where I can take that from. If I were to remove that much from anywhere the arms would be scrap!
That's where i'm at for now. Im not sure if much will get done this weekend as it's my birthday tomorrow (yay!).
So it turns out the starter ring on both flywheels was the same! How did I manage to cock that one up?
Another cock up I made was to not seal off the intake ports properly after I removed the manifold. It rained whilst the engine was sat on my drive and some water got into the ports. I cleared it with the air line and then squirted fuck loads of wd40 down the ports. Reckon i'll be alright?
Since the last update I have decided to reuse the 606 oil filter housing rather than swap it for the 602 housing. Now I cant remember if the oil cooler and pipes from the w210 were damaged or not, so I may have to go aftermarket if that's the case.
I installed the flywheel and then had to deal with the sensor. As you can see from this pic it's way off!
I decided to reuse the 602 sensor to save faffing about. The 602 sensor sits at an angle, to get this looking OE would mean that I'd have to drill through the block and mount it at an angle. Sod that!
I decided to turn the sensor around and cut a bit out of the gearbox instead. I filed the sensor square until it stopped interfering with the flywheel. It doesn't sit in the centre of the teeth but I reckon it will work fine. I may elongate the bolt hole through the sensor so I can adjust its position if I need to.
Once that was done I bolted up the new clutch, concentric slave cylinder, and then bolted the gearbox to the engine. It needed a bit of persuasion to go on but I got there eventually.
After that I enlisted the help of a couple of queers to move my engine into position whilst I took photos. It was a bit tricky getting it in, I had to hold the gearbox up from under the car as there wasn't much clearance.
In the end it went in alright, although there's not much room for a radiator, fan and intercooler. The bonnet wont shut properly either unless I remove (or shave down) the oil cap and the injector cover.
Hugh I know you told me to remove 15mm of material from the engine mount arms, but I honestly cant see where I can take that from. If I were to remove that much from anywhere the arms would be scrap!
That's where i'm at for now. Im not sure if much will get done this weekend as it's my birthday tomorrow (yay!).
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
talk to EDH_Performance, he has done the same job, and sure got a tips for you
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
Also at the risk of repeating myself. The notion of a rack steering conversion is mighty attractive but the new(ish) MOT requirements clearly state that NO modifications to steering, brakes or suspension are allowed within 12" of any subframe or existing suspension mounting. So, unless you're going for an IVA or you know of a bent MOT tester the thing would never pass it's annual test.
My .962 has an alternative angled pick-up mounting point below the starter housing which works on the ring gear. Is yours different? The 90deg one as above is for flywheels that have extra appendages specifically for the purpose. eg, the dual-mass f/wheel I used has three tabs extending fwd that mate perfectly with the vertical pick-up.
Also at the risk of repeating myself. The notion of a rack steering conversion is mighty attractive but the new(ish) MOT requirements clearly state that NO modifications to steering, brakes or suspension are allowed within 12" of any subframe or existing suspension mounting. So, unless you're going for an IVA or you know of a bent MOT tester the thing would never pass it's annual test.
(10-11-2013, 03:14 AM)Druk Also at the risk of repeating myself. The notion of a rack steering conversion is mighty attractive but the new(ish) MOT requirements clearly state that NO modifications to steering, brakes or suspension are allowed within 12" of any subframe or existing suspension mounting. So, unless you're going for an IVA or you know of a bent MOT tester the thing would never pass it's annual test.
I was chatting the the tech advisers from the ACE about this, looks like a BIVA on a 190 shouldn't be too much of a problem, as the critical point (glass) already has E 43r markings.
I'm expecting to have to BIVA mine with the steering rack mods.
(10-11-2013, 03:14 AM)Druk Also at the risk of repeating myself. The notion of a rack steering conversion is mighty attractive but the new(ish) MOT requirements clearly state that NO modifications to steering, brakes or suspension are allowed within 12" of any subframe or existing suspension mounting. So, unless you're going for an IVA or you know of a bent MOT tester the thing would never pass it's annual test.
I was chatting the the tech advisers from the ACE about this, looks like a BIVA on a 190 shouldn't be too much of a problem, as the critical point (glass) already has E 43r markings.
I'm expecting to have to BIVA mine with the steering rack mods.
(10-11-2013, 03:14 AM)Druk My .962 has an alternative angled pick-up mounting point below the starter housing which works on the ring gear. Is yours different? The 90deg one as above is for flywheels that have extra appendages specifically for the purpose. eg, the dual-mass f/wheel I used has three tabs extending fwd that mate perfectly with the vertical pick-up.
Also at the risk of repeating myself. The notion of a rack steering conversion is mighty attractive but the new(ish) MOT requirements clearly state that NO modifications to steering, brakes or suspension are allowed within 12" of any subframe or existing suspension mounting. So, unless you're going for an IVA or you know of a bent MOT tester the thing would never pass it's annual test.
I guess mine's different then. Theres no other hole through the block other than the one at the top.
I know a friendly MOT tester so I can get away with almost anything
(10-11-2013, 03:39 AM)HughF_UK Are you using 606 arms or 602 ones?
EDIT: See you're using 602 arms... Hmmm... I'm using cut down 606 ones with M102 mounts.
Whats the difference between OM602 and M102 mounts?
I might just cut the arms in half and weld them so the engine sits lower if theres no easier/cheaper solution.
(10-11-2013, 03:14 AM)Druk My .962 has an alternative angled pick-up mounting point below the starter housing which works on the ring gear. Is yours different? The 90deg one as above is for flywheels that have extra appendages specifically for the purpose. eg, the dual-mass f/wheel I used has three tabs extending fwd that mate perfectly with the vertical pick-up.
Also at the risk of repeating myself. The notion of a rack steering conversion is mighty attractive but the new(ish) MOT requirements clearly state that NO modifications to steering, brakes or suspension are allowed within 12" of any subframe or existing suspension mounting. So, unless you're going for an IVA or you know of a bent MOT tester the thing would never pass it's annual test.
I guess mine's different then. Theres no other hole through the block other than the one at the top.
I know a friendly MOT tester so I can get away with almost anything
(10-11-2013, 03:39 AM)HughF_UK Are you using 606 arms or 602 ones?
EDIT: See you're using 602 arms... Hmmm... I'm using cut down 606 ones with M102 mounts.
Whats the difference between OM602 and M102 mounts?
I might just cut the arms in half and weld them so the engine sits lower if theres no easier/cheaper solution.
The 602 vac pump had 2 outlets, whereas the 606 vac pump only has one. Do I need to use the 602 vac pump or is there another way to attach the extra vac pipe on the 190?
If I have to swap them then I'll have to swap the timing gears as well. Do they come out easily or do I have to strip the whole engine down?
Ive run into a small problem with the vac pump now. It seems simple but I'd rather ask here in case it turns out to be longer than I thought.
The 602 vac pump had 2 outlets, whereas the 606 vac pump only has one. Do I need to use the 602 vac pump or is there another way to attach the extra vac pipe on the 190?
If I have to swap them then I'll have to swap the timing gears as well. Do they come out easily or do I have to strip the whole engine down?
![[Image: 20131020_172919_zps5988ea77.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/20131020_172919_zps5988ea77.jpg.html)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-21-2013, 07:41 AM #16I feel your pain working outside. You're either melting in the sun, freezing in the snow, and if it's nice out you're off running around screw th car!e
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
It appears that the 606 vac pump is directly driven by the injector pump gear, whereas the 602 vac pump is driven off a cam on the gear.
![[Image: 2013-10-21221118_zpse7fcae0e.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-21221118_zpse7fcae0e.jpg.html)
Here is a pic from the front. The 606 vac pump has 1 outlet, and the 602 vac pump has 2 outlets.
![[Image: 2013-10-21221149_zpsd10155d8.jpg]](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/amr_concepts/media/190/2013-10-21221149_zpsd10155d8.jpg.html)
Is there any way I can hook up the small vac line so I dont have to swap the 606 vac pump for the 602 vac pump? It would also help to know what the small vac line does lol.
I dont want to swap the 606 pump for the 602 pump but if it's the only way then I will. This is a simple question (albeit not for me!), someone should know if its possible or not?!
Here are a couple of shots of the 606 vac pump and the 602 vac pump. The 606 vac pump is on the left, and the 602 vac pump is on the right.
It appears that the 606 vac pump is directly driven by the injector pump gear, whereas the 602 vac pump is driven off a cam on the gear.
Here is a pic from the front. The 606 vac pump has 1 outlet, and the 602 vac pump has 2 outlets.
Is there any way I can hook up the small vac line so I dont have to swap the 606 vac pump for the 602 vac pump? It would also help to know what the small vac line does lol.
I dont want to swap the 606 pump for the 602 pump but if it's the only way then I will. This is a simple question (albeit not for me!), someone should know if its possible or not?!
![[Image: 001_zpsfd8ee8db.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/300TD/001_zpsfd8ee8db.jpg.html)
On the electric pump it had a fuel solenoid on the pump. On the manual pump when fitted to the non electric engine the vacuum was controlled by the ignition switch. I'm remembering now that you've replaced a 250 with the 300 so the shut-off should still be on your car. You'll still have to provide vacuum to the ign switch. As you were..........
And as for the engine mounts, iI'll probably end up making my own to lower the engine 10-20mm. The sump may also need to be modified as it's pretty close to the cross member.
Nice one guys I'll whack a t-piece in. Had me a bit confused as to why they used a separate vac point from factory?
And as for the engine mounts, iI'll probably end up making my own to lower the engine 10-20mm. The sump may also need to be modified as it's pretty close to the cross member.
Also Mr. Druk we are stealing your genius vacuum kill idea I hope you don't mind, we literally have a pile of solenoids from the 210.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Double check with HughF about this because his 606 is sitting perfect in his 190, I saw so myself lol.
Also Mr. Druk we are stealing your genius vacuum kill idea I hope you don't mind, we literally have a pile of solenoids from the 210.
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Currently im looking for a 190e 2.6 radiator if anyone has one lying around or can direct me to someone who has?
Hugh said he used the 606 arms with M103 mounts and cut them down a bit. Ive got the 606 arms and OM602 mounts and im going to give it a go. Dont know when its going to happen, this weather is gay as fuck and I really dont like working outside if I can help it! But ive set myself a target to get it running by crimbo so im going to have to soldier it and see what happens!
Currently im looking for a 190e 2.6 radiator if anyone has one lying around or can direct me to someone who has?
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
the best way, is to use one from a W124 300TDT, with the om 603.962, because that is block mounted
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...8#pid61398
I see your still working on this project. Looking forward to an update. im looking to do a 190 with a 606.
If its not inline its out of line
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...ild?page=6
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...8#pid61398
I see your still working on this project. Looking forward to an update. im looking to do a 190 with a 606.
If its not inline its out of line
when you swaped the elements, did you only swap the bent one from the 606 into the 603 pump??
I was under the impression that 603 had 5.5mm elements and the 606 electric had 6mm??
Great project! impressive when people have the patients to work in those small enginebays! It goes from mechanics to art trying to fit everything!!
Holset power!
question?
when you swaped the elements, did you only swap the bent one from the 606 into the 603 pump??
I was under the impression that 603 had 5.5mm elements and the 606 electric had 6mm??
Great project! impressive when people have the patients to work in those small enginebays! It goes from mechanics to art trying to fit everything!!
Holset power!
I didnt swap the elements, only the bent delivery valve. It was swapped from the 606 IP to the 603 IP.
Trust me this is a headache of a project. Every project gets crazier than the last one and I barely know what im doing! But that's the only way to learn and get better isnt it?
Update coming soon! Ive got a few days holiday left to take before the end of the month so I'll be cracking on with it from Saturday onwards.
I didnt swap the elements, only the bent delivery valve. It was swapped from the 606 IP to the 603 IP.
Trust me this is a headache of a project. Every project gets crazier than the last one and I barely know what im doing! But that's the only way to learn and get better isnt it?
The main one being that I have chosen to start again due to rust. The car was riddled with it and the more I tried telling myself it was fixable, the more I discovered. Eventually it got to the point where it just wasn't worth fixing.
So I have bought another car with a clean shell to replace it. The only problem is it's petrol. Is there anything other than the glow plug loom I need to remove from the old car?
And seeing as winter's on its way I just can't be arsed with the hassle of working outside. So I'm giving the car to a pro to complete the mechanical side of things. The main point of this is for a steering rack conversion. If everything goes as planned there will be an update early next year
Update time! This is long overdue and there have been a few developments.
The main one being that I have chosen to start again due to rust. The car was riddled with it and the more I tried telling myself it was fixable, the more I discovered. Eventually it got to the point where it just wasn't worth fixing.
So I have bought another car with a clean shell to replace it. The only problem is it's petrol. Is there anything other than the glow plug loom I need to remove from the old car?
And seeing as winter's on its way I just can't be arsed with the hassle of working outside. So I'm giving the car to a pro to complete the mechanical side of things. The main point of this is for a steering rack conversion. If everything goes as planned there will be an update early next year
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
09-17-2014, 07:26 AM #36I feel your pain - Bloody old Mercs, if it was not for the rust and W124 post face lift wiring quality they would be the best cars ever. My w210TD is a lovely car but riddled with tin worm – and it’s a good example. My friend’s w210 estate literally exhibited no metal work under the rear bumper, it wasn’t even rusty, it had rotted then dropped off! I’m currently tiding up my ‘mint’ w124 – bit of welding too ready for the 606. Don’t suppose you would sell me your 190 clutch/brake pedal assembly?
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
![[Image: tankfilters.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/300TD/tankfilters.jpg.html)
I didn't think the ignition barrel would be different?
Max I would be very surprised to see a 210 that didn't have any rust! But they do make the most excellent dailys
I'd love to sell you the pedal assembly but I need it for my new 190 as its an auto.
Derek I'm swapping the tank between the 2 cars anyway as mine has been thoroughly flushed out after it clogged up with jelly lol.
Harry I thought you were in Bournemouth?! Im across the river near Croydon. Seeing as youre so close why not pop down to ace cafe one night?
I didn't think the ignition barrel would be different?
Max I would be very surprised to see a 210 that didn't have any rust! But they do make the most excellent dailys
I'd love to sell you the pedal assembly but I need it for my new 190 as its an auto.
Derek I'm swapping the tank between the 2 cars anyway as mine has been thoroughly flushed out after it clogged up with jelly lol.
(09-17-2014, 11:34 AM)Druk The strainer out the tank. The diesel one has a coarser mesh.
What is that adaptor in the pic?
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
09-17-2014, 04:32 PM #39(09-17-2014, 11:34 AM)Druk The strainer out the tank. The diesel one has a coarser mesh.
What is that adaptor in the pic?
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
![[Image: new001.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/300TD/new001.jpg.html)
(10-22-2013, 05:04 PM)Druk I'm remembering now that you've replaced a 250 with the 300 so the shut-off should still be on your car. You'll still have to provide vacuum to the ign switch. As you were..........
Ah this is why I need the ignition switch!
What does the shut off look like?
(09-19-2014, 03:52 PM)hooblah Ah this is why I need the ignition switch!
What does the shut off look like?
Sorry, don't have better pic than the one above. It looks very similar to a black w/washer pump. Cylindrical about 2 1/2" long. They're common on the inner wings of 210 and 202 model for controlling vacuum to the egr.
(09-19-2014, 03:52 PM)hooblah Ah this is why I need the ignition switch!
What does the shut off look like?
Sorry, don't have better pic than the one above. It looks very similar to a black w/washer pump. Cylindrical about 2 1/2" long. They're common on the inner wings of 210 and 202 model for controlling vacuum to the egr.
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