Long runner intake question
Long runner intake question
10-08-2013, 08:59 AM
#1
https://plus.google.com/photos/113477374...4157972190
I have already turned up the MW pump, set cam timing to stock +2 degrees - inj timing is at 27 btdc, reamed the burn holes in the PCs, and installed a 60 trim compressor wheel and a stage II turbine wheel in the turbo.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
kestreltom
10-08-2013, 08:59 AM #1I am planning to upgrade my OM617a to an A/W intercooler. I have seen a few posts (ForcedInduction) that show a W115 NA long runner intake clearing the turbo, but does anyone know if the W123 NA intake will clear the stock T3 compressor housing. I noticed that the runners don't angle up as sharply as the W115 NA intake. Here is a pic of the intake that I found yesterday at the local U Pull.
https://plus.google.com/photos/113477374...4157972190
I have already turned up the MW pump, set cam timing to stock +2 degrees - inj timing is at 27 btdc, reamed the burn holes in the PCs, and installed a 60 trim compressor wheel and a stage II turbine wheel in the turbo.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
10-08-2013, 11:28 AM
#3
(10-08-2013, 10:38 AM)MFSuper90 I'm pretty sure the NA intake won't fit over the exhaust housing
That's what I was suspecting. I don't want to fashion a custom exhaust spacer at this point, the return on investment seems low. I will keep an eye out for the W115 intake.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
kestreltom
10-08-2013, 11:28 AM #3(10-08-2013, 10:38 AM)MFSuper90 I'm pretty sure the NA intake won't fit over the exhaust housing
That's what I was suspecting. I don't want to fashion a custom exhaust spacer at this point, the return on investment seems low. I will keep an eye out for the W115 intake.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
10-08-2013, 12:37 PM
#4
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
They seem to get harder and harder to find. They are a nice bolt on for people going to run a A\A intercooler. But they do pop up every once in awhile if you keep you eye open or put up a WTB
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
10-08-2013, 03:57 PM
#5
(10-08-2013, 12:37 PM)MFSuper90 They seem to get harder and harder to find. They are a nice bolt on for people going to run a A\A intercooler. But they do pop up every once in awhile if you keep you eye open or put up a WTB
Thanks! I will keep an eye out
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
kestreltom
10-08-2013, 03:57 PM #5(10-08-2013, 12:37 PM)MFSuper90 They seem to get harder and harder to find. They are a nice bolt on for people going to run a A\A intercooler. But they do pop up every once in awhile if you keep you eye open or put up a WTB
Thanks! I will keep an eye out
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
09-19-2014, 12:18 AM
#6
(10-08-2013, 10:38 AM)MFSuper90 I'm pretty sure the NA intake won't fit over the exhaust housing
Forced at some point said it would fit over his turbo, but he was running a smaller than stock turbo at that point, so he wasn't sure it would fit over the stock turbo.
It seems to me that the tricky bit is having runners that bolt up to the intake ports on the head. Those flanges are a bit complicated on a non-crossflow head. Anyone thinking of converting a w115 intake to a/w intercooler can obviously weld. So the logical thing would seem to be
1. buy the NA 123 intake
2. Cut the runners off short
3. Weld some new, upcurved aluminum tubes to the runner stumps in position on the head (maybe with the head on a bench).
4. Weld the A/W intercooler to the new tubes.
Might not be as smooth as a w115 intake runner set, but it would solve the "how do I bolt this thing to my head" issue, having to machine new flanges, etc.
OK where is the flaw in my logic? Perhaps I should be looking at modifying the stock intake somehow. Or take a trip to the junkyard.
atypicalguy
09-19-2014, 12:18 AM #6(10-08-2013, 10:38 AM)MFSuper90 I'm pretty sure the NA intake won't fit over the exhaust housing
Forced at some point said it would fit over his turbo, but he was running a smaller than stock turbo at that point, so he wasn't sure it would fit over the stock turbo.
It seems to me that the tricky bit is having runners that bolt up to the intake ports on the head. Those flanges are a bit complicated on a non-crossflow head. Anyone thinking of converting a w115 intake to a/w intercooler can obviously weld. So the logical thing would seem to be
1. buy the NA 123 intake
2. Cut the runners off short
3. Weld some new, upcurved aluminum tubes to the runner stumps in position on the head (maybe with the head on a bench).
4. Weld the A/W intercooler to the new tubes.
Might not be as smooth as a w115 intake runner set, but it would solve the "how do I bolt this thing to my head" issue, having to machine new flanges, etc.
OK where is the flaw in my logic? Perhaps I should be looking at modifying the stock intake somehow. Or take a trip to the junkyard.
09-19-2014, 06:46 AM
#7
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-19-2014, 06:46 AM #7Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
09-20-2014, 01:59 PM
#8
(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Probably easier to just mod the stock one. I think runners would help the flow though.
The stock manifold is certainly more compact.
atypicalguy
09-20-2014, 01:59 PM #8(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Probably easier to just mod the stock one. I think runners would help the flow though.
The stock manifold is certainly more compact.
10-01-2014, 07:17 AM
#9
(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Ahh..Haa! That is what I needed. Thanks!
I have a nearly new GT2256V with the 3 bolt exhaust flange. I am planning to fab a custom T3 type flange adapter for it, so I will plan on making it so that the turbo is lowered about an inch or so. So far, I am debating whether to weld a T3 flange to the existing turbine housing, or just make an adapter. You can weld cast iron - just need to get it as hot as possible in an oven first.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
kestreltom
10-01-2014, 07:17 AM #9(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Ahh..Haa! That is what I needed. Thanks!
I have a nearly new GT2256V with the 3 bolt exhaust flange. I am planning to fab a custom T3 type flange adapter for it, so I will plan on making it so that the turbo is lowered about an inch or so. So far, I am debating whether to weld a T3 flange to the existing turbine housing, or just make an adapter. You can weld cast iron - just need to get it as hot as possible in an oven first.
1984 300D with Monark nozzles, GT2256V w/ Synkooppi/Arduino controller, W123 n/a intake, air/water intercooler, precup holes reamed, IP & valve timing = fac + 2 degrees, upgraded leather interior, 140A alternator, electric lift pump, 3" aluminum radiator w/ electric fan, HID headlight conversion, bilsteins, stock MW IP turned up 3 turns on tq module per OM616, 2.65 rear end, ventilated front rotors, dual rear swaybar mod + W116 springs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zPSyCMkkk0
10-01-2014, 07:28 AM
#10
(10-01-2014, 07:17 AM)kestreltom(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Ahh..Haa! That is what I needed. Thanks!
I have a nearly new GT2256V with the 3 bolt exhaust flange. I am planning to fab a custom T3 type flange adapter for it, so I will plan on making it so that the turbo is lowered about an inch or so. So far, I am debating whether to weld a T3 flange to the existing turbine housing, or just make an adapter. You can weld cast iron - just need to get it as hot as possible in an oven first.
I am thinking to cut the runners off a non-turbo intake, bend up some new ones, and weld them up to look like a w115 intake with intercooler.
atypicalguy
10-01-2014, 07:28 AM #10(10-01-2014, 07:17 AM)kestreltom(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Ahh..Haa! That is what I needed. Thanks!
I have a nearly new GT2256V with the 3 bolt exhaust flange. I am planning to fab a custom T3 type flange adapter for it, so I will plan on making it so that the turbo is lowered about an inch or so. So far, I am debating whether to weld a T3 flange to the existing turbine housing, or just make an adapter. You can weld cast iron - just need to get it as hot as possible in an oven first.
I am thinking to cut the runners off a non-turbo intake, bend up some new ones, and weld them up to look like a w115 intake with intercooler.
10-01-2014, 07:46 AM
#11
(10-01-2014, 07:17 AM)kestreltom(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Ahh..Haa! That is what I needed. Thanks!
I have a nearly new GT2256V with the 3 bolt exhaust flange. I am planning to fab a custom T3 type flange adapter for it, so I will plan on making it so that the turbo is lowered about an inch or so. So far, I am debating whether to weld a T3 flange to the existing turbine housing, or just make an adapter. You can weld cast iron - just need to get it as hot as possible in an oven first.
Some people have delded ot the existing flange, but T3 blanks are cheap (like $20) so why not og that route? Play iwth it in the car ot get your backspacing right...
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-01-2014, 07:46 AM #11(10-01-2014, 07:17 AM)kestreltom(09-19-2014, 06:46 AM)Simpler=Better Cutting and rewelding a standard turbo intake would be similar as well, just bake the oil out first.
I tried to fit a GT2056V and the NA intake-it wouldn't fit, but if the turbo was like 1/2" lower it would have.
Ahh..Haa! That is what I needed. Thanks!
I have a nearly new GT2256V with the 3 bolt exhaust flange. I am planning to fab a custom T3 type flange adapter for it, so I will plan on making it so that the turbo is lowered about an inch or so. So far, I am debating whether to weld a T3 flange to the existing turbine housing, or just make an adapter. You can weld cast iron - just need to get it as hot as possible in an oven first.
Some people have delded ot the existing flange, but T3 blanks are cheap (like $20) so why not og that route? Play iwth it in the car ot get your backspacing right...
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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