hose for turbo oil drain
hose for turbo oil drain
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
hi folks, i'm looking to replace the hard oil drain line with hose and it occurred to me that some of you must have done the same with your crazy installs... the only 20mm (3/4") oil hose i have found rated at all past 100C is High-Temperature/Medium-Pressure Chemical Hose, $31 a foot at mcmaster-carr... is there something else that people in the know use? maybe a smaller diameter is still big enough?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-11-2014, 06:04 AM #2Go to a tractor or heavy equiptment dealer-they should have reels of oil rated low pressure hose that are inexpensive. I think I paid $5/foot for 1" diameter drain line
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/
https://www.belmetric.com/
http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/
Surprising McMC doesn't stock something in that price range.
MBZ123
Try these guys
http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/
https://www.belmetric.com/
http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/
Surprising McMC doesn't stock something in that price range.
MBZ123
it's much harder to find than i expected. there is much more selection for high pressure than high temperature. many hoses are rated 212F/100C and i'm not sure that is enough headroom. i would be tempted just use heater hose if it were. maybe heater hose slipped inside another piece of hose for structural integrity?
here is one of the few that are rated a bit hotter, but for the wrong size, still hideously expensive.
https://www.belmetric.com/rh22w-wire-rei...ijo0reviu3
anyone have a better sense than i of the oil temperature in that drain tube?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
thanks folks!
it's much harder to find than i expected. there is much more selection for high pressure than high temperature. many hoses are rated 212F/100C and i'm not sure that is enough headroom. i would be tempted just use heater hose if it were. maybe heater hose slipped inside another piece of hose for structural integrity?
here is one of the few that are rated a bit hotter, but for the wrong size, still hideously expensive.
https://www.belmetric.com/rh22w-wire-rei...ijo0reviu3
anyone have a better sense than i of the oil temperature in that drain tube?
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
well some folks want to kill a mouse with a .300 mag. well will work well enough.
regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
come on , boys , i´ve been using cooling circuit hose from the scrap yard for my return line and still going , and those Hyd hoses 8BAR rated for piping to oil cooler, i had run with 150ºC oil temp , and they still there keping the integrity.
well some folks want to kill a mouse with a .300 mag. well will work well enough.
regards.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
maybe a braided sleeve around the heater hose....
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
you may be right barrote, but how do i try it without risking spilling all my oil onto the road?
maybe a braided sleeve around the heater hose....
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
(10-19-2014, 11:12 PM)bricktron you may be right barrote, but how do i try it without risking spilling all my oil onto the road?
maybe a braided sleeve around the heater hose....
Go for oil/diesel rated rubber for sure.. hot oil destroys water hose real quick. I used 16mm 125°C inner braided low pressure from hydraulic shop, it was only 6€/m. And I know it will hold for maaany years.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
(10-19-2014, 11:12 PM)bricktron you may be right barrote, but how do i try it without risking spilling all my oil onto the road?
maybe a braided sleeve around the heater hose....
Go for oil/diesel rated rubber for sure.. hot oil destroys water hose real quick. I used 16mm 125°C inner braided low pressure from hydraulic shop, it was only 6€/m. And I know it will hold for maaany years.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
here is one:
http://www.hydraulicstore.com/index.php?...e]=2000225
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
looking, looking.... is an upper limit of 100C enough?
here is one:
http://www.hydraulicstore.com/index.php?...e]=2000225
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Important is oil resistance.. go for it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
i cut the turbo drain tube to slide inside the 3/4" hydraulic hose. at the oil pan the hose is too small to fit over the nub of the oil drain receiving tube, and larger than the breather drain port. i put a rubber stopper in the former and clamped the hose to the latter, and it doesn't leak, but the car is now super smoky when the turbo kicks in at low temperatures. despite probably needing valve stem seals anyway, i suspect the turbo is getting oil soaked, not because of any kink in the hose, but perhaps that breather port does not flow well enough, at least when the oil is more viscous.
i tried to cut the receiving tube using one of those rotary knives for plumbing but it didn't work, after managing to slightly score the pipe i realized those cutters are only good on copper. i could use the dremel to cut it but i want to avoid getting any metal filings into the oil. what else can you all suggest? i'd like to avoid dropping the skid plate and lower pan to remove the tube from beneath.
![[Image: drains.jpg]](http://www.lithic.org/tmp/drains.jpg)
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
hi folks, so i finally had my transmission replaced and returned to this job (pic below).
i cut the turbo drain tube to slide inside the 3/4" hydraulic hose. at the oil pan the hose is too small to fit over the nub of the oil drain receiving tube, and larger than the breather drain port. i put a rubber stopper in the former and clamped the hose to the latter, and it doesn't leak, but the car is now super smoky when the turbo kicks in at low temperatures. despite probably needing valve stem seals anyway, i suspect the turbo is getting oil soaked, not because of any kink in the hose, but perhaps that breather port does not flow well enough, at least when the oil is more viscous.
i tried to cut the receiving tube using one of those rotary knives for plumbing but it didn't work, after managing to slightly score the pipe i realized those cutters are only good on copper. i could use the dremel to cut it but i want to avoid getting any metal filings into the oil. what else can you all suggest? i'd like to avoid dropping the skid plate and lower pan to remove the tube from beneath.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i made a fitting using the bell of a stock oil drain. now the geometry is kind of funky, because this hydraulic hose isn't so flexible, but the smoke seems abated and hopefully it will keep working.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
when the engine got warm the hose kinked up and the smoke returned. now to find a way to hold the hose open. the geometry of the oil drain hard line is wrong for this application: the tube bends away from the center of the diamond towards an oblique angle side, but if it were towards an acute side, i would have no problem. now a lot of the angular mismatch is taken up at the bell end of the tube, which won't sit straight up and down any more.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i found a stainless spring that fits inside the hose and keeps it open. bell cup still ajar, but it seems to seal.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
For the record I just used whatever was at autozone that fit and some pipe clamps. Kept the stock drain, cut the pipe. No need for high pressure here.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
thanks winmutt, i was really reluctant to cut the pipe and get metal shavings into the sump but i think stuffing a rag into it first could prevent that. probably i will go that direction next. for now the bell is sitting at a funny angle but it's not leaking or backing up, which is an improvement!
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
(01-29-2015, 11:58 AM)bricktron thanks winmutt, i was really reluctant to cut the pipe and get metal shavings into the sump but i think stuffing a rag into it first could prevent that. probably i will go that direction next. for now the bell is sitting at a funny angle but it's not leaking or backing up, which is an improvement!
Oh you definitely want to pull the pipe out before you cut.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(01-29-2015, 11:58 AM)bricktron thanks winmutt, i was really reluctant to cut the pipe and get metal shavings into the sump but i think stuffing a rag into it first could prevent that. probably i will go that direction next. for now the bell is sitting at a funny angle but it's not leaking or backing up, which is an improvement!
Oh you definitely want to pull the pipe out before you cut.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
yeah, that would be better, but i have been trying to avoid pulling it out since it can't be reseated without also R&R the oil, sump, and skid plate.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
01-30-2015, 11:39 PM #22Not at all man, it's only held in by that rubber gromet.
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
wtf! i could swear i had read a long thread by someone struggling to lever the fitting into place from beneath, but chapter 18-031 suggests you are right. thanks for the tip led-panzer.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i was all ready to declare shenanigans and that the tube DOES have to be inserted from below, when i got it through. much better, thanks all!
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
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